I've wanted a Hobao hyper for a long long time and got this one as it seems like such good value. I'm not a racer and also not really a basher but i do look forward to good driving performance and handling. Bought the roller to pair with a hobbywing max 10 combo 2400kv 3665 motor
2s on a 10th scale rig seems kinda slow. These days if near 50 mph 16th scale 3s Chinese trucks for $100 ish have us spoiled for speed and power whereas little kid me a couple/ few decades ago would have been amazed at the speed and power of this rig in 2s and never would have guessed trucks would be so powerful for so cheap. The hobby really has came a long way.
Xray XT4 is $500+ IF you can find prev. year version on sale. And that's chassis-only kit without wheels (or even 1 pinion) included. You can't compare $399 RTR to that. I wish Xray pricing was more competitive even though they call it a "luxury" brand.
Oh, you can compare the Hyper TT to the Teknos and Xrays... in the right hands it can totally out pace those trucks, or at the very least keep up and compete.
Hobao is looking pretty appealing, I just checked out the hyper sste and damn that thing looks like it could have potential! Wondered how it would stack up with losi 8ight xte rtr 🤔
I can't wait to get the roller in the mail and start racing with the other 4x4 truggies. Any idea on how to reduce the bump steer? Would shimming the outer tie rod end help with that?
I can't wait for them to get the ARR in.... meanwhile, trying to get a sense of what parts i may wanna get to keep handy, as we intend to race it... arms and knuckles, and a handful of the parts aren't showing up as in stock yet, so im holding off on ordering things... What should I get besides extra wheels? Was thinking possibly arms, hingepins and pills, front knuckles, rear hubs, and rod ends... but at the least, knuckles as that is one part I saw someone broke already in their video, and that part isn't available. Hopefully all the parts are available by the time we get our ARR.
My son and I are putting one to the test om the race track... we might also use it for some mild bashing away from the races... One suggestion , try pulling the front tower, so you can access the front upper arm himge pins... move the spacer to the rear and the arms to the front... this reduces the caster a little bit, bit in doing so it rotates the spindles and raises where the outer end of the steering link connects. We are running the links on the rearmost hole of the ackermann plate, with 5.8mm hollow balls in the links, 2mm ballstud washer under the plate, no spacers under the ball on the spindle, upper arm forward , amd i find the bumpsteer to be OK if not very close to dialed so far... Alum front spindles on the way... Can you tell me what you think of the grey stiffer springs? Im debating getting those to try, or at least on the front... maybe that or reducing anti squat would help innthe jumping tail high... you mention reducing anti squat, do you think reducing anti squat might help with that? The brand might be smaller in the US, but the folksnat Hobao-USA have been helpful and responsive to my emails, and they have the parts on their site for a pretty good deal. I will be seeing how their shipping time is to get an order to the NW soon, plan to order at least a few parts in the next couple days. There's not much that i can think of that isnneeded to make this truck really really solid, and it can be made to hamdle quite well jist with what's in box... cant wait to take it a step further.
@@isaiahfurrow7414 is it jumping tail high because the rear end is smacking off the ground? If so, then more rear ride height, stiffer rear springs, more anti squat will all help, but reduce rear traction a bit.
@RazorRC looking at the bottom of the chassis, and watching it off some jumps, I don't think it'schassis slap.... I'm kinda leaning towards moving the D block pill up to center, and moving the battery back a touch, as well as a bit more pinion for more wheel speed ... then maybe try some ride height and droop changes if needed, or grey front springs.
@@isaiahfurrow7414 it definitely has a tendency to nosedive, I moved the battery tray back and run a full size, but you could try shorty all the way back. For outdoor dirt I’m not sure you would want gray springs.
Hey Razor! This little guy looks sick. What do you think about a HoBao SSTE vs a Tekno ET48? Would the HoBao do for bashing or would the Tekno hold up a lot better? Thanks
They are both not good for bashing. But the hobao sste us way more fragile but it's a super old design. The tekno et48 2.0 is also fragile. But because they are meant for racing not bashing. The old tekno et48.3 was super durable but discontinued. That one is awesome for bashing
@magnusstone the old et48.3 was basically the longer version of the short course sc410.3. And the sc410.3 was the exact same chassis as the mt410. But alas, all discontinued . But you can build them from parts as parts are still available, much more expensive though
@@AsurasWrath164 you sound like somebody more knowledgeable on these kinds of cars than me (I do lots of minis and some arrma)- do you think anything compares in quality bashability to the OG MT410/other cars on the same platform? I would get an mt410 1.0 but I’m looking for something that compares to a k6 or a kagama, but lighter and better quality
@magnusstone the most durable vehicle if all time is hands down the traxxas maxx. But that is a completely different design. I you want the classic flat pan aluminium chassis design the way to go is the mt410 or et48.3 in regards of durability and performance. But as these are discontinued you need to buy 2nd hand(parts availability is not a problem despite discontinued vehicles). If you're in the US the second best bet is kraton6sexb or traxxas sledge. But both have different flaws. Arrma diffs are terrible and need to be maintained constantly if you drive them hard and often ehile the redt of the vehicle is ok.the traxxas sledge chassis plate is known to bend but their diffs are good although they use monkey metal on them. The chunky teeth make up for the bad material. If I was you go for a used tekno mt410 or traxxas maxx. Tekno mt410 is also best in quality and super light compared to other 1:8scale trucks. Hobao has the best diffs by far in the industry and maybe they will upgrade the 1:8 trucks too after the hypertt. Might be worth waiting.
@borislavpenkov1544 there's nothing wrong with the RTR if you want a complete truck... the ARR is more aimed towards someone who wants to put in their own electronics ... This IS most definitely a really good little truck. Working on one right now on my bench....
I'll stick with HoBao's best 8th scale brushless range RC'S like the VS2 & VT' etc , as the not quite as higher specced as the other two , HoBao Hyper GT rally car & SST truggy 🤣🤣🤣 .
I've wanted a Hobao hyper for a long long time and got this one as it seems like such good value. I'm not a racer and also not really a basher but i do look forward to good driving performance and handling. Bought the roller to pair with a hobbywing max 10 combo 2400kv 3665 motor
I ordered a blue one from Hobao yesterday. Can't wait to check it out!
Can you reverse using this model?
Can't beat Hobaos for the price 👍 love that there are arr versions as well.
2s on a 10th scale rig seems kinda slow. These days if near 50 mph 16th scale 3s Chinese trucks for $100 ish have us spoiled for speed and power whereas little kid me a couple/ few decades ago would have been amazed at the speed and power of this rig in 2s and never would have guessed trucks would be so powerful for so cheap. The hobby really has came a long way.
Xray XT4 is $500+ IF you can find prev. year version on sale. And that's chassis-only kit without wheels (or even 1 pinion) included. You can't compare $399 RTR to that. I wish Xray pricing was more competitive even though they call it a "luxury" brand.
I beat the mess out of my XT4. It’s special.
Oh, you can compare the Hyper TT to the Teknos and Xrays... in the right hands it can totally out pace those trucks, or at the very least keep up and compete.
Looks like a winner 🏆
Great video! Need to get one of these!
Can you compare this and tekno from 1 to 10. is it worth the expensive investment in the tekno or better to save a dollar and get the hobao? Thank you
hope they do a nitro 2.0
Cope
@@Albertotron where nitro blitz ???
@@coldfox7308 Classified info
@@coldfox7308 does yours run
@@coldfox7308 Classified info
Hobao is looking pretty appealing, I just checked out the hyper sste and damn that thing looks like it could have potential! Wondered how it would stack up with losi 8ight xte rtr 🤔
I can't wait to get the roller in the mail and start racing with the other 4x4 truggies. Any idea on how to reduce the bump steer? Would shimming the outer tie rod end help with that?
I can't wait for them to get the ARR in.... meanwhile, trying to get a sense of what parts i may wanna get to keep handy, as we intend to race it... arms and knuckles, and a handful of the parts aren't showing up as in stock yet, so im holding off on ordering things...
What should I get besides extra wheels? Was thinking possibly arms, hingepins and pills, front knuckles, rear hubs, and rod ends... but at the least, knuckles as that is one part I saw someone broke already in their video, and that part isn't available. Hopefully all the parts are available by the time we get our ARR.
My son and I are putting one to the test om the race track... we might also use it for some mild bashing away from the races...
One suggestion , try pulling the front tower, so you can access the front upper arm himge pins... move the spacer to the rear and the arms to the front... this reduces the caster a little bit, bit in doing so it rotates the spindles and raises where the outer end of the steering link connects. We are running the links on the rearmost hole of the ackermann plate, with 5.8mm hollow balls in the links, 2mm ballstud washer under the plate, no spacers under the ball on the spindle, upper arm forward , amd i find the bumpsteer to be OK if not very close to dialed so far...
Alum front spindles on the way...
Can you tell me what you think of the grey stiffer springs? Im debating getting those to try, or at least on the front... maybe that or reducing anti squat would help innthe jumping tail high... you mention reducing anti squat, do you think reducing anti squat might help with that?
The brand might be smaller in the US, but the folksnat Hobao-USA have been helpful and responsive to my emails, and they have the parts on their site for a pretty good deal. I will be seeing how their shipping time is to get an order to the NW soon, plan to order at least a few parts in the next couple days.
There's not much that i can think of that isnneeded to make this truck really really solid, and it can be made to hamdle quite well jist with what's in box... cant wait to take it a step further.
@@isaiahfurrow7414 is it jumping tail high because the rear end is smacking off the ground? If so, then more rear ride height, stiffer rear springs, more anti squat will all help, but reduce rear traction a bit.
@RazorRC looking at the bottom of the chassis, and watching it off some jumps, I don't think it'schassis slap....
I'm kinda leaning towards moving the D block pill up to center, and moving the battery back a touch, as well as a bit more pinion for more wheel speed ... then maybe try some ride height and droop changes if needed, or grey front springs.
@@isaiahfurrow7414 it definitely has a tendency to nosedive, I moved the battery tray back and run a full size, but you could try shorty all the way back. For outdoor dirt I’m not sure you would want gray springs.
Hey Razor! This little guy looks sick. What do you think about a HoBao SSTE vs a Tekno ET48? Would the HoBao do for bashing or would the Tekno hold up a lot better? Thanks
They are both not good for bashing. But the hobao sste us way more fragile but it's a super old design. The tekno et48 2.0 is also fragile. But because they are meant for racing not bashing. The old tekno et48.3 was super durable but discontinued. That one is awesome for bashing
@@AsurasWrath164 oh really? Was the old Tekno the equivalent to the MT410 1.0? I assumed the ET48 was just a longer version of the mt410 1.0.
@magnusstone the old et48.3 was basically the longer version of the short course sc410.3. And the sc410.3 was the exact same chassis as the mt410. But alas, all discontinued . But you can build them from parts as parts are still available, much more expensive though
@@AsurasWrath164 you sound like somebody more knowledgeable on these kinds of cars than me (I do lots of minis and some arrma)- do you think anything compares in quality bashability to the OG MT410/other cars on the same platform? I would get an mt410 1.0 but I’m looking for something that compares to a k6 or a kagama, but lighter and better quality
@magnusstone the most durable vehicle if all time is hands down the traxxas maxx. But that is a completely different design. I you want the classic flat pan aluminium chassis design the way to go is the mt410 or et48.3 in regards of durability and performance. But as these are discontinued you need to buy 2nd hand(parts availability is not a problem despite discontinued vehicles). If you're in the US the second best bet is kraton6sexb or traxxas sledge. But both have different flaws. Arrma diffs are terrible and need to be maintained constantly if you drive them hard and often ehile the redt of the vehicle is ok.the traxxas sledge chassis plate is known to bend but their diffs are good although they use monkey metal on them. The chunky teeth make up for the bad material.
If I was you go for a used tekno mt410 or traxxas maxx. Tekno mt410 is also best in quality and super light compared to other 1:8scale trucks.
Hobao has the best diffs by far in the industry and maybe they will upgrade the 1:8 trucks too after the hypertt. Might be worth waiting.
My question with this and something like a Losi TT Pro- would it be beneficial to eliminate the top brace for racing? For more flex/grip?
Well, that immediately made it onto my list.! 😉
I really dont understand why you went for the rtr version instead of buying the arr.
I haven't seen the ARR available yet
What is the problem with rtr version? What you recommend if i buy arr? Thank you
@borislavpenkov1544 there's nothing wrong with the RTR if you want a complete truck... the ARR is more aimed towards someone who wants to put in their own electronics ...
This IS most definitely a really good little truck. Working on one right now on my bench....
I'll stick with HoBao's best 8th scale brushless range RC'S like the VS2 & VT' etc , as the not quite as higher specced as the other two , HoBao Hyper GT rally car & SST truggy 🤣🤣🤣 .
Cost more than the hyper 7 tq nitro 1/8 buggy....😮
👌
How is different from the traxxas rustler class\model? It seems like rustler or the arrma offering would be a good comparison
This is more of a race truck
I hate when other people use 3 syllables to pronounce HoBao. Ho-bay-oh? No. Hoe, bow!
😂😂😂