Surviving the Eddie Swell: My TERRIFYING Experience!! 2023
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- Опубліковано 23 січ 2023
- Experience the thrill and fear of surfing the biggest swell to hit the north shore of Oahu. Join me as I take on the legendary Eddie Aikau swell, 60ft massive waves, including 29ft 20 sec Hotel-sized barrels. See my terrifying yet exhilarating journey of overcoming fear and finding strength and courage while surfing these massive waves with my friends. This adventure will give you an adrenaline rush and test your limits. Don't miss out on the action, watch now!
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Have to agree with some of the others. That drone shot really showed how massive and steep that ride was. It was also terrifyingly beautiful. Happy for you to have experienced it. Also shoutout to the water safety crew. Dudes are legends.
Love your videos from all your local spots and travel, Koa. Keep up the aloha.
Drone angles make it look small and easy
I love these honest “what’s going on in the pros head” type of videos. So insightful for those of us who think you are all fearless.
💯When people are honest - others can learn! What a gift!
One of the best surf videos ever. 1) so glad you took all the precautions with the life jacket, head gear, etc. 2) Love the thoughtfulness and gratitude and 3) badass surfer. Some legendary stuff here.
9:57 that moment of reflection and gratitude is what sets you apart from the rest, amazing waves Koa
gratitude of being alive lol
Been on Maui thirty five years now.
Used to chase big waves , but those days are long gone now. I feel like I can still do it, but I know I can’t.
Koa speaks the truth.
So glad I did and have the memories to last the rest of my life. I was watching the North shore going off the other day and now I can’t believe I’m some old dude just watching.
I’m still here though. Gotta pinch myself to make sure I’m not dreaming.
Everyone said I wouldn’t make it and that I’d be back within a year.
Well I’m 55 and own my own home on the south side of Maui / Makena for about twenty five years now.
Surfed some of the biggest waves in the world with my childhood heroes .
Not too shabby for starting out as a twenty year old broke ass surf bum nobody in a Volkswagen van.
Just gotta nut up or shut up sometimes and go for it.
Lucky you! Sounds like a dream come true! 😎😍👍
Well Joe if you want really big swell just go to Nazare … that’s the real deal
@@renevanderbruggen731 Or he could just surf Maui.
love this!
I was just showing my wife some big wave riders on UA-cam last night, and I was telling her how amazing was to be able to ride down the face of a good-sized wave. I told her that there was no experience like it on earth and that once you did it, it was so hard to leave the beach. All I could think about is getting back into the water when possible, and wondering when that would be. It really brought back some memories when you described yourself as a twenty-year-old, broke ass surf bum. I remember that all too well too. Like you, I am in my fifties and think I could do it, but I know I'd be in trouble if I did. I don't live in Hawaii, but I do live in N. California where there is a little place called Half Moon Bay not very far away. I am hoping to at least go check it out someday soon. On the other hand, life as a grown up with four kids changes things, and I wouldn't trade them for the world. Enjoy the sights, smells, and sounds there in Maui! Perhaps I will be able to get there with my wife and kids someday. I know they would love it there.
Mad respect Koa.........
Takes some insane courage to push through that anticipation of both excitement and nerves from hell.......
You got your memories fo life bro.......
Right on.....
Psyched for you 100.....
One x
🌊🌊🌊🏄🏄❓🌴 adrenaline rush 🌴❓❓🦅
Me being scared in 4 foot surf 😭✋
Lol same
Same 😩
Baby steps
I dont get scared on big waves like 8 10 ft i just cant paddle, have no health for that, end up cacthing almost nothing
@@AmanitaBrasil if you can't paddle what the hell are you even out there for?
Dude, the look on your face when your brahda said he got the drone shot was awesome! Such a sick ride on a beautiful monster wave!! So glad you glitched out and paddled into the ride of a lifetime! Good for you Koa, you're an inspiration to all of us!
i've never been so excited about someone else success, i was literally yellin and punching the table, so happy for you Koa, god bless you
Hahah yes!!!
OMG me too! 😎
Kid, I'm your fan!!! I'm a beginner in surfing and skateboarding, in my spare time I'm riding my bike around... you're the guy in radical maneuvers on the waves, friend from afar!!! Congratulations
!!! I'm your admirer!!! You are the man!!! The beach is our home!!! My name is: Rubenn Dean Paul Alws "Petrópolis, Rio de Janeiro" Brazil!!
Thanks Koa for taking me surfing with you on a massive wave! Love your light shining through! 👍🏻🌈🌊🏄♂️🙏❤️❤️❤️❤️
You said it Broski! you WILL remember that wave the rest of your life ( probably in slow motion) total respect for going for it Koa. The soul has to be brave, fearless & total dedication to paddle into those beasts, congratulations, you get to remember that wave the rest of your life. Im 52 now! I still remember every second of my wave freak wave i got to conquer we are the lucky ones!
What age were you when you found your "freak" wave?
That last speech was like the cherry on top of the cake, absolutely worth it to you to get in that crazyness, very motivational. Great footage man.
Well done, young man.! If ever one faced fear, you looked fear in the eye and shoved it aside. Your first wave I'm like ,he's going, omg! I yelled out loud when you dropped in. Dude I thank you for making this video and sharing it with the world. The courage it takes to paddle into a big wave is immeasurable. Well done. Be smart, be safe!
Sincerely...
"Be smart, be brave and get a wave" - words to live by
@Regis Johnson tf
Such an epic vlog! Thank you for taking us out and giving us a glimpse of what it was like out there this weekend. I love that you include some of the shots from the GoPro after the wipeouts -- it truly brings us into the video and amps up the anxiety (even just for us watching safe at home) of what you go through. it wasn't until we saw Sam's drone shot that you could truly get a sense of the size of that wave. Massive. I also loved your message at the end about pushing through the fear. Great stuff!
Wow, the look in your eyes and the true excitement in both your voices haha. So fun to see that reaction. It doesnt even matter whether you made it. To be on that wave itself in that tube is such an accomplishment!!
I enjoyed watching footage from this year's Eddie. The waves were pumping. The swells were monstrous. The waves were mountainous. Man ...
I wonder how many folks were injured out there.
So cool who ultimately won the contest: The north shore (born and raised) lifeguard, Luke Shepardson, who took time off from work to complete then ...went right back to work, after he did! Terrific ending!!
I was lying on our sofa after a second hip replacement (on xray my artificial hips look like the chrome taillights of a 58 Chevy Impala) watching this clip. Sun, blue sky, offshore wind, and macking surf with clean lines made me feel as if the salt was spraying out of my laptop screen. At the end of the clip I literally felt like I had just left the water. Watching this inspires me to get up, get out, and start surfing. If I looked up "stoke" in an illustrated dictionary the Eddie Swell would be featured! BTW My absolute #1 surf film is Psychic Migrations - Eddie Swell is a psychic migration as well. Surfs UP!
That was AWESOMENESS being out with You KOA... That was sooo Spectacularly Beautiful.. The Magnificent Colors in the Hugest Wave...
WOW! wow... So Fantastic.. it was mind blowing just watching you paddle that Wave and surf it.... It's truly the closest I will ever come to Riding a Perfect or for that matter Any Wave... MAHALO KOA MAHALO!!!!!
You GUY'S are Awesome.. such Wonderful "Family" "OHANA"
💫🌟❤🇿🇦❤🌟💫
That was so much fun! Thanks for being courageous! And thanks to your friends giving you rides and making the drone shot!
AT 69 years old, believe me it's worth it to make the memories. Helps to have an awesome video of your memory but still I have a couple (one really) burned in my memory that gives me satisfaction to this day thinking about it.
Holy! Everything over 4-5 feet is terrifying for me..
Courage is not lack of fear, it's having the fear, but going anyway. Congrats on that very special wave and the memory.
What an incredible video. Here you are, the ride of your life, and you not only get maybe the best inside-the-barrel shot I've ever seen with your board-mounted GoPro, but it was droned at the same time so you could look and re-live it later. Good reward for facing your fears!
Closest thing I've done to this, I was kayaking the Grand Canyon, September day, 28,000 cfs.
Got to the biggest rapid (and appropriately the final one) in the 225-mile trip, Lava Falls. Wasn't a strong boater, and my combat roll was marginal at best, so I couldn't be accused of oozing confidence. Most of my fellow paddlers walked it, and I considered doing the same, but like these surfers decided, I couldn't live with the memory of not trying it. So I asked a fellow boater to lead me through. I followed his line. All I remember was watching his boat, paddling, hearing the roar, paddling, glancing to my right, seeing the center hole chomping the rear of my boat, paddling, eyes front, --- and paddling for all I was worth. Then the magic moment when the roar ceased---and I was through. Memories.
You faced your fear and you were tested but you persevered! Those wave sets inspired a sport, born right there in Hawaii. 🌊It’s a dangerous sport yet it’s amazing most of the time people do well. There have been bad years.
Great footage and commentary
That barrel at 9:08 one of the best I’ve ever seen good stuff koa!!
This guy is living the dream, all his natural teeth, a healthy body, nature every day and brave enough to surf kahunas.
Haha “don’t let fear sink in this lil ole heart of mine”…love that line
Watching that drop that was drones… the GoPro shot was like not telling of how huge that wave was. Initially I was like.no way that barely looks steep! Then the other views, the drone shot… dude!!!! The walls look so steep like your just free falling!
I’m so stoked you are putting more videos out!! 😊 your fire 🔥
Thank you!!!!
Always admired Koa's style and approach to surfing, and life in general. Imo, the level of exposure and appreciation he gets has yet to match his talent
It's actually really nice to see people actually riding a bike and not just letting electric do your job. Much respect and much respect out in the water.
Amazing stuff!!! I'm stoked!!
Your passion, excitement and joy radiates through the screen! Thanks for sharing the joy of surfing with us all.
Way to pull the trigger and paddle out there and thank you for your honesty and how you felt leading up to this session and how easily you could have called it off and sat at home! Instead you got up, faced your fears and had one of the most epic moments of your life. This goes for anyone in every facet of life, 75 % of the battle is just showing up in the first place..
As a former minor league hockey player, I was know to be a very fast skater. I’m 46 now and need double hip replacement. I haven’t skated in 15 years. I had to retire due to injury.
I remember how amazing it felt coming around the corner with crossovers and taking strides down the wing. It felt like flying and I couldn’t imagine a feeling that could replace it!
Well, I think this surfing trumps the flying feeling of skating! So awesome!!!!
This videos is a real surf golden heritage!
So easy to let the fear tell you what to do and equally difficult to realise that fear is a thought like any other. But that insight into staying present... gold. It's still not easy but congratulations to every single one of those brave souls that went out in 13:03 those conditions.❤
The camera on board 👌 so perfect. There with you but it's all you. Respect 🙏
Congrats, Koa! I love your videos because you are so humble and always in a place of gratitude, no matter the circumstances. ❤
God I love watching these guys. It’s the ultimate stoke and I can feel it.
I grew up on Long Island in Ny. Not known for large surf. I’ve only been in maybe 6-8 ft surf. Again not big. But if you’ve never surfed you can get that feeling even on smaller waves. It’s all relative. I’m telling you when you’re laying on a board and a 6 ft wave comes, it’s heavy. It’s dangerous. And for me was always terrifying. Mainly because when the surf gets that size where I’m from it’s usually in a storm so it’s choppy and rough and not glass.
Anyway, my point is, that intersection of fear and excitement is all over Koa. It radiates from his personality. It’s so fun to watch and even though my life experiences can’t compare, I know a tiny bit of what that feels like. And it’s the ultimate stoke.
So sick man!!! You absolutely charged!! Hyped for you bro. 🤙🏼🤙🏼
Good on all you all - epic day and vibe for all participants and organizers and spectators even- yes - super big experience!
That was a sick wave you got. Barrel for sure. Wish we could have seen a drone or beach shot of that wave. Well now that I finished it they did get the shot. Nice on!!
That was the drone shot at the end! Same wave!!
@@itskoasmith that what I figured after watching the rest of the video. Nice one.
Incredible! So much respect for you and all big wave surfers .... amazing!
BROTHER THAT WAS STRAIGHT UP GOLD.MY WORD
P.O.V DID NOT DO IT ENOUGH JUSTICE.!!!INCREDIBLE BROTHER.A GIFT FROM GOD U WILL NEVER EVER FORGET.SWEET DREAMS.I BET IT WILL BE.!!!!!.
Dude... U ROCKED it! Camera 📸 work was totally awesome!! Such BEAUTIFUL footage on a BEAUTIFUL day inside of A BEAUTIFUL WAVE- experiencing life in a ZENITH MOMENT! CONGRATULATIONS man!!! JUST need some ROCKIN' SURF GUITAR🎸 in some footage! Lol 😂! GOT BALLS OF TITANIUM DUDE!! "KEEP ON TRUCKIN'!" I LOVE THE OCEAN MAN- WISH I WAS THERE. Everything looks so CLEAN & FRESH!!
That was so much fun to watch!!! I absolutely loved it. Thanks for sharing!!
Im watching on my computer, and was hooting during your barrel...saying cmon out. No difference, that was insane. I love your honesty and humility about being nervous, as I get that way at 5' (after my injury). But nice to see that the legends also have to breathe once in a while.
Right on boys, thanks for sharing the stoke!
I’m 50 now and the biggest waves I’ve ever got to surf on the North Shore was Kawela bay. It was sick to be able to drop in, make a couple of cut backs and make it into the channel unscathed, but those days are over for me so thanks for giving this old dog some stoke!
Let’s freaking go Koa! Your very easy to root for. Love your energy and vibes. Glad you got the one you were looking for out there ✌🏼❤️🤙🏼
Thank you!!!
So blessed all those years I got to surf on Maui, Middles, Kbay, Olowalu, Dumps, .... Back in the 90s and early 2000s. Living happily and vicariously through your surf sessions. It's elating to watch!🤙🏼
11:59 is the sickest frame!!! it looks like you're the only one in the whole ocean just taking on an absolute bomb
This is for real the biggest makeable barrel I’ve ever seen a human attempt… Thanks for giving the memory to all of us. One for the record books!
10:15 that was the moment i was waiting for hahah best video!
Puck fear! And you caught the wave of your life! And survived! Blessed 🙏🙏🙏 brah!
you really did put your fear behind you
that was awesome
congrats
The female charger is awesome! The boys are scared 😱 💩 less, but she's ready to paddle out & catch another bomb 💣 Legend!
PROUD OF YOU!!!! Congrats - you did it ❤❤❤❤
Awesome. A network TV sports show with multi-million $ budgets probably could not have made a more interesting & watchable clip. Cool cat, cool people, cool house too.
So amazing!! Thank you for sharing this footage and your experience.
Love your authenticity. The fear you confronted and defeated is a great metaphor for so many things in life. Amazing! :-)
Big ups for all the knowledge and courage of going out in those XXL days. It is inspiring to see humans pushing their limits. Big lesson for many life moments we have to face. Congrats for everyone out there! Mad respect!!
Way to go Koa! Been there, done that, it's a great feeling to keep your fear respectable, but also at a distance so you continue to grow in your challenges!
It's cool seeing you two together again!!! Great drone footage, Sam! Also, I'm no expert but even the smartest surfers get injured. It's courageous to get back out there after you've been injured. It's beautiful. 🌊💙🤙
Gotta love watching someone take a massive barrel beatdown and come up smiling.
Absolute legend. Smiled from ear to ear watching this vid, for all the right reasons. You're an inspiration!
you are a deadset legend mate. So positive, such good energy. Keep it going buddy!
First of all, mad respect for your surfing Koa.
I (my personal opinion) think drone shots don‘t do justice to the speed, but they are much better to show the size. That gopro-shot was mental, the drop, the barrel… and the drone was complementing it perfectly. Keep it up, and stay healthy 🤙
OMG … my 60’s homebreak! 😂 … our house was perched on the rip between it and you know what. To my knowledge Flippy Hoffman was the first to ever surf the outer reef. His only floatation device was wearing a full wetsuit. Of course no leash and only a huge longboard. He would go out when it was crazy … not amazing clean like this day! And then we would watch Jock appear from his home break … taking off first at L then here … when it was freaking crazy … no one out but him. When it was smaller, I hated that left hook 😂 … as a teen when it was too big I surfed inside reforms for hours with Barry Webster. SOOO miss living there!!! Warmest Alohas from Kona … and so happy 😃😃😃 to see you get the waves you wanted ❤❤❤
Amazing thank you for the story time and history!!!
Sooo much history surfing NS!
Damn dude. I love your energy and I have been watching surfing videos for a while but that was sick! I felt so immersed.
Holy wow! Absolutely amazing Koa! Mad respect for you tackling this. I surfed the NS in the early 90's, but nothing like this ever. Keep on charging brother.
Your enthusiasm is infectious.
For those of us who don't know anything about what you are doing, would you shoot a little walkthrough of your safety gear, and how you work with the jet ski pilots to get in the right spots and not get rolled over and over? How do the jet ski guys avoid getting rolled?
RAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sick video dude, especially around 9:30
Lol… that barrel was epic! Love your enthusiasm!
OMG!!!!! thanks for sharing
Wow...the difference between the board shot and the drone shot was crazy. Board shot: "OK...that looks like a pretty good wave...nice." Drone shot: "Holy guacamole with all of Mexico on the burrito...that was big."
Glad you reached your goal on this day Koa, great vibes.
Thank you!
Trust yourself, trust your power. Great quote
After OD'ying on Eddie coverage - all the while thinking, must be also cranking everywhere else, thank you for sharing this. BIG! Tbh it wasn't until the drone shot that I actually grasped the scale of it. 30/30 bruh!
Always bringing super awesome vibes Koa! Absolutely love your aura!!🫶🏽🤙🏽🌸
After watching footage from The Eddie I saw this video. This made my day. Aloha from Canada!
Good thing for cameras, that’s a tough one to retell. SHACKED!
Just EPIC!!!! Stoked for you
Wow Koa, that was impressive & inspiring at the same time. Great experience and great filming despite the massive waves! And I have to agree with the others, that was an epic drone shot.
Stay safe and always respect the ocean! :)
the vid and waves are great but the message is better, stoked for you also that pit was huge !!!!!!!!!!!
Conquering fear! Awesome, what a wave.
THAT WAVE WAS INSANE!!! Let’s go KOA!
Epic!
Overcoming fear makes one stronger; giving into fear makes one weaker.
Hey from Cornwall in the UK. Getting that wave was epic enough but having that footage to see forever more is pretty special. Best wishes fella. Mark
Hell yeah Koa! To have the mindset to catch waves like that put you into the league of few. Love your channel love your edits. Mahalo my friend. Be safe and keep reaching for those goals.
Awesome surfing. Your brave and talented. I smiled and cringed through out. Really captured the essence.
Yeeooww, I'm the 2-4ft guy, much respect to everyone who gets amongst these giant gems! Well done mate! 🤙🏄🌴🐬🌅
Thank you for sharing the experience koa! Truly stoked for you.
You guys are frekin legends....thanks for taking us on this ride...subbed!!!
Seeing that pure rush on your face is the best memory to imprint in your mind. It captures everything dude, epic work!
Thank you!!!
Great insight into conquering your fear on those big days. Got me amped to get the big board out this autumn in West Aus. In my experience the drone shots make the wave look tiny so can't imagine how big that was in the water.
You guys are SICK!!!
Loved the shots from your go-pro on your board. Can't believe how clear & colorful! So happy you got the ride of your life!
Super stoked for you Koa.
Epic wave, brilliant achievement. Great surfing and courage
Koa such a great experience for you! Nice one!!! The POV vs. drone is unbelievable. I hope you make a still photo of that wave and plaster your wall with it!!!