I saw the title in my notifications and instantly clicked thinking it was RCflitetest, but I'm even happier to be getting a new video from you! I'm excited to see where you take this tank track, and what kind of awesome machines you will make in the future as well. Keep up the fantastic work!!
Great adaption of the Sherman tank type tracks. One issue I saw was the outer diameter of the washers was the same as the outer race of the bearings. These may be an issue stopping the bearings from rotating freely.
Amazing build and design. The quiet operation is a great sign, indicates that you got everything sized really well. Fyi, using the threaded section of a screw in a bushing is asking for premature wear. Luckly it's easy to fix, just get partially threaded screws next time. If you pick the right length, D-links on the tracks will pivot mostly on the smooth unthreaded portion.
Great video. I might build this one day. Little tip: screw 2 nuts on each side of the threaded rod before cutting the rod. Cut between the two nuts then spin them off. When you get to the cut end of the rod you can use the nut to repair the threads.
For cutting threaded rods, I usally put a nut on it, gently sand/file the very edge and then screw the nut off. Never had any problems doing it that way
you may want to make those bottom wheels to be all smooth, the teeth may cause it to throw a track. and a track horn also helps to prevent track throwing
The tension setup you had was only missing a tension screw similar to a chainsaw. it would keep the axle pushed back while still allowing it to be loose enough to roll. Should be fairly easy to adapt your model.
I'm excited to see how this works out. Someone here in the comments said the sprockets look weak (I'm not sure myself, wait and see) but if so, a great opportunity to get PCB Ways to print some in another material !
I believe that sprockets can keep up and even if they finally fail, I can always print these with stronger printing settings and other materials (nylon, PC, PEEK).
Would really love to see your CAD process. I think it would be awesome to see how these come to be. Also awesome job with your English. Knowing technical words in one language is hard enough, let alone being able to work in two languages at once. So amazed by everything you do!!
To help protect the threads of your bolts when in a vice, make copper plates that cover the entire clamping surfacs and have it held in place by having the copper fold over the top of the vice.
Cool!! What if you were to make the tracks in such a way that you could coat them with a few layers of rubber spray so they can track on concrete as well and not get worn down
Just printed and assembled one of these. Some of the holes were tight on the supports and the sprockets, but got through them. I think the model shows 35 track pieces but it was more like 37 or 38. I'll go back and count when I get a chance.
Wanted to follow up on this. The gear boxes were a bit of a nightmare. The gears on the motor didn't attach very well under any significant force and you could hear the screws scraping against it. To get past this, we re-worked the gear on the motor to be friction fit which resolved this issue. Next, the planetary gears were too loose inside their cases, so we sized them up a bit. This was a little bit of trial and error, but we got it there. Finally, due to the planetary gears still being loose, the gear connecting to the drive shaft had significant vertical displacement resulting in significant slippage and/or the gear box + motor shifting back. We did a couple of things to resolve this. First, we added some thin strips of rubber to the upper brackets holding the motor in place. We also placed a strip of rubber under the motor on the motor harness. This stopped the gearbox + motor from moving backward. We also put in inserts into the motor harness to keep the brackets in place due to the torque. Finally, we designed a new cap on the gear boxes that allowed us to place a large bearing that held the gear that interfaces with the drive shaft gear to stay in place without displacement. This final step resolved our issues and we were able to get this rolling. Bottom line, it's a cool design with some flaws, but if you spend time on it, you can work your way through those flaws and sort it out.
One thought. The ends seem a bit abrupt. Like tracks usually have a reverse ramp on the leading edge or a large idle wheel. My thought aside its an amazing project and you are giving the files away really sets you apart from channels that charge for plans. Keep it up!
Nice project 😮✌️, when I cut those threaded rods , first put the nut and then I can use the nut to secure it in a vise. The nut will act as the die tool , some little advice 😁.
Before you'll cut a bolt you can screw on a nut on it and after cut you be able to screw out the nut and this nut will repair thread. it saves much time at all
Actually if you leave a nut on the threaded rod then take it off After cutting the nut will reform the threads without needing to recut in most cases. As a pro tip ;]
at 3 mins in you use tap and die to recut thread if you just screwed an 8mm nut on cut the rod then unwind the nut it will clear the swarfe save using tap and die cheaper
The best way to fix your rod not accepting nuts is to grab a file and take the ends of the threads down to a narrower radius so the damaged portion doesn't interfere with the nut. The damage is only about half a turn of thread. A die is probably the worst way to fix this in this context.
if you don't have a die, and industry trick is to thread a non locking nut onto the rod before hand below your cut, and remove the bolt afterward, and it will straighten out your threads
Fix the threads: Screw 3 nuts on before you cut. Then lock 2 nuts together so you can hold the rod still and use a wrench to remove the 3rd nut over the slightly damaged threads. Fixed. :-)
@Let’s print One tip for you, just put one or two nuts on the thread before cutting it, than file of sharp edge’s and loosen the nuts out over the cutted part. No need to recut the threads anymore. Also please use the two nuts locking each other to clamp the rod and not harming the thread and hurting my eyes😉
Suggestion: Stop using screws for the hinges in the tracks. Get a roll of nylon filament and cut pieces of that and use that instead. And as a bonus it is possible to print with it :-)
Is there any specific reason not to use a gimbal BLDC motor for the tracks? I would prefer not to print the gears you use, and I already have two iPower GM5208-12 bldc motor
I would love to scale this up a little and cast the running gear and frame out of aluminum. Then the tracks can be cast out of rubber and turn it into something that can be all weather and handle a human passenger
Here's a trick for cutting anything with external threads. Put a nut on first, thread it down so it's below your cut, cut it, and then remove the nut. When it comes off it will fix the threads.
Looks really cool! Would love to try it at a smaller scale, but then clearances and everything may become an issue. I think I'll stick to seeing what this final project looks like lol
Man... With PCB way... I want to order the indymill steel plates... They Want to charge me 460 usd for the job while a company here in Uruguay charge me 160... What's going on with PCB way and their prices?
in respect to re-threading the 8mm Rod just Put a Nut on in front of the cut and when you have cut it off undo the Nut and thread clean voila No epensive tools needed
try metal or 3d printed or plastic cast impeller/tesla-disc shrouded drone rotor-turbine, very high rpm, vertical orientation, the air going from center-side-in
I feel like this is going to take a long enough time where I can say... LIDAR assisted tractor for an RC Garden in the summer, and then redo the attachments to plow your own driveway in the winter... 🤣😇
väga lahe. te teete väga huvitavaid asju. näen et kasvad väga kiiresti. ma olin ka üsna hammastunud et kui vaiksed need olid. arvan et see tulenes nende trackide juppide vahedest.
I saw the title in my notifications and instantly clicked thinking it was RCflitetest, but I'm even happier to be getting a new video from you! I'm excited to see where you take this tank track, and what kind of awesome machines you will make in the future as well. Keep up the fantastic work!!
I thought the same exact thing!
Do you mean rctestflight? I also thought it was his video.
Yeah I thought it was something for the snowcat
3:00 screw in a nut before you cut the threaded rod, removeing the nut after cutting fixes the thread
it is also better to clamp the rod on the nut, while cutting, to not damage the thread with clamping
Nice. Never thought of that
Great adaption of the Sherman tank type tracks. One issue I saw was the outer diameter of the washers was the same as the outer race of the bearings. These may be an issue stopping the bearings from rotating freely.
Cool design. I've been looking at a lot of 3d printed tracks and like this one the best.
Amazing build and design. The quiet operation is a great sign, indicates that you got everything sized really well. Fyi, using the threaded section of a screw in a bushing is asking for premature wear. Luckly it's easy to fix, just get partially threaded screws next time. If you pick the right length, D-links on the tracks will pivot mostly on the smooth unthreaded portion.
Great video. I might build this one day.
Little tip: screw 2 nuts on each side of the threaded rod before cutting the rod. Cut between the two nuts then spin them off. When you get to the cut end of the rod you can use the nut to repair the threads.
For cutting threaded rods, I usally put a nut on it, gently sand/file the very edge and then screw the nut off. Never had any problems doing it that way
you may want to make those bottom wheels to be all smooth, the teeth may cause it to throw a track. and a track horn also helps to prevent track throwing
The tension setup you had was only missing a tension screw similar to a chainsaw. it would keep the axle pushed back while still allowing it to be loose enough to roll. Should be fairly easy to adapt your model.
I'm excited to see how this works out. Someone here in the comments said the sprockets look weak (I'm not sure myself, wait and see) but if so, a great opportunity to get PCB Ways to print some in another material !
I believe that sprockets can keep up and even if they finally fail, I can always print these with stronger printing settings and other materials (nylon, PC, PEEK).
Would really love to see your CAD process. I think it would be awesome to see how these come to be.
Also awesome job with your English. Knowing technical words in one language is hard enough, let alone being able to work in two languages at once. So amazed by everything you do!!
To help protect the threads of your bolts when in a vice, make copper plates that cover the entire clamping surfacs and have it held in place by having the copper fold over the top of the vice.
Wow, really cool project and good video quality. I hope the algorithm recommends you to many others!
A little trick when cutting threaded rods. Put the nut on before you cut. Then simply unscrew the nut which will clean up the threads.
Great work! But seeing that sprockets are plastic - isn't that part that needs to handle lots of torque and load?
Brilliant work. I wonder how well this can scale down. I guess the key considerations are the metal parts and the minimum sizing we can get
Had the same thought, I'd love to print a pair and turn one of my old Mini T's into a half track buggy!
@CheffBryan I was thinking my own rendition of Johnny 5 lol
Cool!! What if you were to make the tracks in such a way that you could coat them with a few layers of rubber spray so they can track on concrete as well and not get worn down
Exactly, and if they can be cast our of rubber outright then they can be all weather (as in warm weather)
Very impressive ! Excellent video, great ingenuity !
Just printed and assembled one of these. Some of the holes were tight on the supports and the sprockets, but got through them. I think the model shows 35 track pieces but it was more like 37 or 38. I'll go back and count when I get a chance.
Wanted to follow up on this. The gear boxes were a bit of a nightmare. The gears on the motor didn't attach very well under any significant force and you could hear the screws scraping against it. To get past this, we re-worked the gear on the motor to be friction fit which resolved this issue. Next, the planetary gears were too loose inside their cases, so we sized them up a bit. This was a little bit of trial and error, but we got it there. Finally, due to the planetary gears still being loose, the gear connecting to the drive shaft had significant vertical displacement resulting in significant slippage and/or the gear box + motor shifting back. We did a couple of things to resolve this. First, we added some thin strips of rubber to the upper brackets holding the motor in place. We also placed a strip of rubber under the motor on the motor harness. This stopped the gearbox + motor from moving backward. We also put in inserts into the motor harness to keep the brackets in place due to the torque. Finally, we designed a new cap on the gear boxes that allowed us to place a large bearing that held the gear that interfaces with the drive shaft gear to stay in place without displacement. This final step resolved our issues and we were able to get this rolling. Bottom line, it's a cool design with some flaws, but if you spend time on it, you can work your way through those flaws and sort it out.
Video: ua-cam.com/users/shortsrOM37xmcWQk
It is perfect project.waiting to see final results.Good luck!😎😎😎😎😎
One thought. The ends seem a bit abrupt. Like tracks usually have a reverse ramp on the leading edge or a large idle wheel. My thought aside its an amazing project and you are giving the files away really sets you apart from channels that charge for plans. Keep it up!
You make really High quality projects and videos love your work mate
Nice project 😮✌️, when I cut those threaded rods , first put the nut and then I can use the nut to secure it in a vise. The nut will act as the die tool , some little advice 😁.
Before you'll cut a bolt you can screw on a nut on it and after cut you be able to screw out the nut and this nut will repair thread. it saves much time at all
Actually if you leave a nut on the threaded rod then take it off After cutting the nut will reform the threads without needing to recut in most cases. As a pro tip ;]
at 3 mins in you use tap and die to recut thread if you just screwed an 8mm nut on cut the rod then unwind the nut it will clear the swarfe save using tap and die cheaper
The best way to fix your rod not accepting nuts is to grab a file and take the ends of the threads down to a narrower radius so the damaged portion doesn't interfere with the nut. The damage is only about half a turn of thread. A die is probably the worst way to fix this in this context.
if you don't have a die, and industry trick is to thread a non locking nut onto the rod before hand below your cut, and remove the bolt afterward, and it will straighten out your threads
OK this is badass! Are you going to print another set?
What scale would the tracks be?
Wow looks good. Looking forward to use this track
Trucks for life 🚛🚛🚛🚚🚚🚚❤️i love FUSO🚛🚛🚚🚚🚚all fuso fans
This is a nice one. Hope to see part 2 soon.
Cool turned out, you need to wake up the old wheels from the BMW X5 to find and make yourself an all-terrain vehicle. 👍😁
Fix the threads: Screw 3 nuts on before you cut. Then lock 2 nuts together so you can hold the rod still and use a wrench to remove the 3rd nut over the slightly damaged threads. Fixed. :-)
@Let’s print One tip for you, just put one or two nuts on the thread before cutting it, than file of sharp edge’s and loosen the nuts out over the cutted part. No need to recut the threads anymore.
Also please use the two nuts locking each other to clamp the rod and not harming the thread and hurting my eyes😉
Suggestion: Stop using screws for the hinges in the tracks. Get a roll of nylon filament and cut pieces of that and use that instead. And as a bonus it is possible to print with it :-)
It is 608zz (not the 806zz) right?
said in the 25:53
sorry 2:53
9:14
Bruh why does that screwing in sound slap tho?
it would be nice to make the protectors on the links replaceable, because they will wear out.
seems like you should use partially threaded screws
Hello friend!
Can u make a video where u show step by step how u did this in your CAD Programm? (Fusion 360 i think)
Is there any specific reason not to use a gimbal BLDC motor for the tracks?
I would prefer not to print the gears you use, and I already have two iPower GM5208-12 bldc motor
That does look like a nice way to make a printed track... may have to try this myself.
Where can I get the quantity of hardware required?
I would love to scale this up a little and cast the running gear and frame out of aluminum. Then the tracks can be cast out of rubber and turn it into something that can be all weather and handle a human passenger
Nice job man!
Here's a trick for cutting anything with external threads. Put a nut on first, thread it down so it's below your cut, cut it, and then remove the nut. When it comes off it will fix the threads.
Bro this is so satisfying to watch, sadly they look wayyyyy to big to use on my t maxx
Looks really cool! Would love to try it at a smaller scale, but then clearances and everything may become an issue. I think I'll stick to seeing what this final project looks like lol
Man... With PCB way... I want to order the indymill steel plates... They Want to charge me 460 usd for the job while a company here in Uruguay charge me 160... What's going on with PCB way and their prices?
where are you from?
Hello my good sir may I make a suggestion for you to print?
in respect to re-threading the 8mm Rod just Put a Nut on in front of the cut and when you have cut it off undo the Nut and thread clean voila No epensive tools needed
Really nice job.
Pertama nih sob 👍
try metal or 3d printed or plastic cast impeller/tesla-disc shrouded drone rotor-turbine, very high rpm, vertical orientation, the air going from center-side-in
drone turbine but impeller pump instead, not direct rotor or ducted fan
diy pure dc lorentz force brushless electric dc motors
axial permanent magnet, looped coil axial wire ring rotor, or reverse
no control circuits
You should try to make an air raid siren 🚨
I just downloaded. But it's a step file instead of stl :D
The American vernacular for repairing the threads on something threaded like that with a die, would CHASING the threads.....
I'm just here because neon/lime green is my favourite colour.
I feel like this is going to take a long enough time where I can say... LIDAR assisted tractor for an RC Garden in the summer, and then redo the attachments to plow your own driveway in the winter... 🤣😇
it's interesting. Will it drug me on a sleigh?
Part of me wants to print like 4 of these and mount a wooden "car" for my sisters kids to ride on!
I love your videos
would it work better fi going a slosw speed to have CRAWLER m,ottotrs ibnsiude
Please print an Arcade Stick Push button with hot swappable mechanical keyboard keys.
väga lahe. te teete väga huvitavaid asju. näen et kasvad väga kiiresti. ma olin ka üsna hammastunud et kui vaiksed need olid. arvan et see tulenes nende trackide juppide vahedest.
Sweet!
Good work
Top weiter so
5:53 Бедный подшипник. :(
nice it is a STEP file, i want to make some minor changes :D
Bom dia parabens
👍
Cool
Modified Version:
ua-cam.com/video/rOM37xmcWQk/v-deo.html
Great
Sadly not 100%, so dislike because of clickbait.