Great video. I would like to see more CAD videos, I think it can help some of us with 3D printers and would like different methods to create items for our models. I designed an interior for Takom's 1/16th Type 94. Pictures of this on Armorama if you care to see. It seems you didn't have any trouble with this design, but something I found to help with designing small items is to design it in a bigger scale. When finished with the design, reduce scale to the desired scale. In TinkerCAD, this helps because of the restricted viewing of the program. But again, great video. Thanks.
This was really helpful! I couldn't wrap my head around how to do the complex shapes but this makes that thought process much easier. It would be interesting to understand how you make those decisions. Excellent video!
Man, I'm jealous. The rubber tracks are so lousy. Yesterday ome ripped when I tried to put them on my King Tiger and I had just spent hours making them rusty and muddy. I am thinking of buying a 3d printer for a while now, but finding extra build time for 3d printing specifically is the issue! Would still love to see more of these vids and they might help convincing me 😄👍
Oh Man! that's awful! hopefully there's a way you can hide that under a fender. I would still recommend getting a 3d printer, there are plenty of free prints out there like stowage you can add to your builds! Thanks for watching.
amazing video man, am new to your channel but dam good videos, you got a new fan. I as well used tinker cad way back for 3D printing but I only had a FDM printer so the layer lines and quality were disasters but now you make me want to get a resin printer and get back into it. thanks man truly a legend.
To improve efficiency, you can definitely overlap the rafts of the prints, and just leave a little clearance between the parts. You can fit way more on the plate that way, and not have to print so many plates. I do this all the time for my SLA print shop.
@@mattockmodels nah dont worry about it! you can pack em full! In reality, cycling the screen by doing more prints probably causes more wear. Great use of printing here though, especially for SLA which definitely doesn't typically do dynamic pieces like this so well.
I have a Tamiya 1/35 Kampfpanzer Leopard that had its tracks warped and deformed, and I decided to make a whole new pair of tracks for it. My question, is it possible to 3D print the entire belt or I have to print individual links because the material doesn't have the flexibility to bend the belt?
I've done both actually, Its possible to connect them the slicing software but there's no guarantee that the will bond with each other and might not line up correctly. So what I do is upload them to tinkercad and line them up that way and link them. then I just use the individual links for the bends and sag. Hope that helps!
wow. Now this is real 3D resin printing details. Congrats! I wish I had those skills. Is there any possibility to have the samples of these tracks to print them myself in my 3D printer? Thank you very much for sharing and please keep posting videos like this
Great stuff , i would like to see other tank tracks such as Panzer I to IV , btw which printer do you use and how large your build plate is ? mine is Anycubic Photon M3 7.6
Can you not print multiple floors of parts as well? like baseplate>support>part>support>part? so you dubble or tripple the amount of small parts in each batch. you can think of a crystall structure of parts and supports
That would take a lot more support structure. I actually got the process down pretty fast with not much waste. As printers get faster though, it might not be a bad idea!
Make sure you have enough supports and you angle the print so that the print lines don't run in the same orientation as the longest part, for example if you print a shovel, don't print it as though it is laying flat across the print bed, angle it at a 45 degree angle. Also after the print is cleaned in isopropyl alcohol make sure it has fully dried before curing. Hope that helps, good luck.
Gettings some serious PTSD from when I did the Tracks for my 1/16 E-100 ua-cam.com/video/l3_RcOU3zo0/v-deo.html 🤣 That being said... Maybe have a look at Fusion 360 for your modelling needs... Much more capable without the need for doing all the hacks I saw you doing during your modelling stage in order to get to a shape you needed and unless you're planning on designing _super complex_ models made out of more than 10 assemblies can still be used for free.
I've actually learned solidworks since that video came out but Fusion 360 is next on my list. That is an amazing E-100, great job! liked and subbed. Wish I saw that before I did my Mk.IV r/c conversion!
That is impressive, really takes it to the next level.
Thanks, I thought it was an improvement for sure!
Great video. I would like to see more CAD videos, I think it can help some of us with 3D printers and would like different methods to create items for our models. I designed an interior for Takom's 1/16th Type 94. Pictures of this on Armorama if you care to see. It seems you didn't have any trouble with this design, but something I found to help with designing small items is to design it in a bigger scale. When finished with the design, reduce scale to the desired scale. In TinkerCAD, this helps because of the restricted viewing of the program. But again, great video. Thanks.
That's awesome, I will definitely check that out! Thanks for the feedback and for watching.
This was really helpful! I couldn't wrap my head around how to do the complex shapes but this makes that thought process much easier. It would be interesting to understand how you make those decisions. Excellent video!
loved the build, i really hope to see these custom builds from the design to the printed model in the future. you won yourself one subscriber more.
Thanks so much for the support!
Great build and great conten!. Your videos are so underrated. More people need to see your channel! Keep up the good work!
Thanks so much! More views would be great but I'm having a lot of fun doing it, so it's all good.
I like the showing of how you designing it
Thanks for the feedback!
Honestly mate thank you 🙏 I’ve been scratching my head over this sort of problem 😂
Man, I'm jealous. The rubber tracks are so lousy. Yesterday ome ripped when I tried to put them on my King Tiger and I had just spent hours making them rusty and muddy.
I am thinking of buying a 3d printer for a while now, but finding extra build time for 3d printing specifically is the issue! Would still love to see more of these vids and they might help convincing me 😄👍
Oh Man! that's awful! hopefully there's a way you can hide that under a fender.
I would still recommend getting a 3d printer, there are plenty of free prints out there like stowage you can add to your builds! Thanks for watching.
amazing video man, am new to your channel but dam good videos, you got a new fan. I as well used tinker cad way back for 3D printing but I only had a FDM printer so the layer lines and quality were disasters but now you make me want to get a resin printer and get back into it. thanks man truly a legend.
Thanks so much man! I love my resin printer, it is definitely messy but worth it. Thanks for the support.
Blender is a great free tool for 3D modelling. It's great for designing complex shapes. You should give it a try.
It's on my list to try, I'll move it to the top. Thanks for the suggestion!
What 😳😳😳😳amazing 👍🏻realy cool 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
AWSOME video have now subscribed to see more of what you do
Thanks so much! More to come soon!
To improve efficiency, you can definitely overlap the rafts of the prints, and just leave a little clearance between the parts. You can fit way more on the plate that way, and not have to print so many plates. I do this all the time for my SLA print shop.
Good tip! I was just worried it would stress out the LCD screen.
@@mattockmodels nah dont worry about it! you can pack em full! In reality, cycling the screen by doing more prints probably causes more wear. Great use of printing here though, especially for SLA which definitely doesn't typically do dynamic pieces like this so well.
@@VarunBajaj-asaurus 🤣 Ok! next time I'm gonna pack it then!
I have a Tamiya 1/35 Kampfpanzer Leopard that had its tracks warped and deformed, and I decided to make a whole new pair of tracks for it.
My question, is it possible to 3D print the entire belt or I have to print individual links because the material doesn't have the flexibility to bend the belt?
I've done both actually, Its possible to connect them the slicing software but there's no guarantee that the will bond with each other and might not line up correctly. So what I do is upload them to tinkercad and line them up that way and link them. then I just use the individual links for the bends and sag. Hope that helps!
@@mattockmodels Ah, alright. I don't actually have a 3D printer at home, so I thought about going to a 3D printing service.
@@y5fireflyschannel384 You could also try finding a local maker space that has one.
wow. Now this is real 3D resin printing details. Congrats! I wish I had those skills. Is there any possibility to have the samples of these tracks to print them myself in my 3D printer? Thank you very much for sharing and please keep posting videos like this
Thanks! The .STL files are available on my Etsy page
Amazing work dude
Thanks so much!
Great stuff , i would like to see other tank tracks such as Panzer I to IV , btw which printer do you use and how large your build plate is ? mine is Anycubic Photon M3 7.6
I have the Elegoo mars pro. Works great still. Replaced the screen once. Probably upgrade in a year or so for better resolution.
How to make axis in the model?
Can you not print multiple floors of parts as well? like baseplate>support>part>support>part? so you dubble or tripple the amount of small parts in each batch. you can think of a crystall structure of parts and supports
That would take a lot more support structure. I actually got the process down pretty fast with not much waste. As printers get faster though, it might not be a bad idea!
Im really struggling with warped parts... what settings do you use?
Make sure you have enough supports and you angle the print so that the print lines don't run in the same orientation as the longest part, for example if you print a shovel, don't print it as though it is laying flat across the print bed, angle it at a 45 degree angle. Also after the print is cleaned in isopropyl alcohol make sure it has fully dried before curing. Hope that helps, good luck.
Which printer did you use? Ie filament or resin
I use resin for scale model details like this. I have an old elegoo mars 2 and it still works great!
MORE!
Soon!
Gettings some serious PTSD from when I did the Tracks for my 1/16 E-100 ua-cam.com/video/l3_RcOU3zo0/v-deo.html 🤣
That being said... Maybe have a look at Fusion 360 for your modelling needs... Much more capable without the need for doing all the hacks I saw you doing during your modelling stage in order to get to a shape you needed and unless you're planning on designing _super complex_ models made out of more than 10 assemblies can still be used for free.
I've actually learned solidworks since that video came out but Fusion 360 is next on my list. That is an amazing E-100, great job! liked and subbed. Wish I saw that before I did my Mk.IV r/c conversion!
I hate rubber band track, too
fusion 360 is free for education purposes
Oh, awesome! Thanks, I'll give that a try, too, then.
and could u share the files? I liked the vid, I'll sub & ring & share if u share the files
The .STL files are available on my Etsy page.
@@mattockmodels That's cool, but u gotta share the link. In ur description & when people ask, like I did.
Buddy theyre called links, not treads. And we make them in 3d software after measuring real ones.