Hi Nigel, please don't be too concerned about those who continue to criticize the way you work, or suggest that the time you take to get parts, or sub-assemblies to fit correctly is a waste of time. The majority of us out here are very happy with the highly entertaining, knowledgeable and worthwhile effort you bring to building kits. Just reply suggesting that you would be happy to receive images of their own completed work, then see how many you receive. There are just too many armchair critics in modelling, the majority of who would never get close to your highly detailed finished results. Kind regards David Porter London
I love this kit. I love the plastic also. I’m in my mid 50s and enjoy trying to find a more appropriate way to assemble a kit other that kit instructions. Sometimes they get it right sometimes they don’t. If I could find the pic I would show you the kits I got on my 4th birthday back in 1972!!! Yep been at it that long.!! Keep ‘em coming.
Great video my friend the spitfire is looking fantastic please don’t change what you do that’s why I love following your channel you go into great detail everything you do you explain well that’s the great thing about your videos I always come away having learned something look forward to seeing more in the future thanks for sharing 👍👍
lol - I love frog tape - and also, think I'll be following your process... there any many ways to 'improve' kits, but i love how you think ahead on the consequences of fixes...
I agree with davep4703 - your videos are truly excellent! One thing though, the aperture at the port wing root is not the housing for a gun light but is for the gun camera.
Loving the build Nigel. Definitely want to start mine currently living in the stash. Ignore all the people stating you’re fussing too much. All the little detail is awesome and it’s your shelf queen so carry on mate!!! Keep up the quality work and I’m enjoying seeing the progress. I’m in complete agreement with you about the plastic from Airfix.
She's coming along nicely Nigel. Fine workmanship.👍 I am enjoying your in depth approach even though I would consider myself a relatively experienced modeller. We can always learn something new if we care to. You clearly have your preferred way of doing things which works perfectly as far as I can see. Please don't feel the need to explain your processes. As you've mentioned in past videos, UA-cam comes with a fast forward button for those with less patience. Keep on keeping on and please, lets have part #13 asap. 😉 Cheers.
Very positive about the ‘Carry On’ “Oooh err missus!” And “A hard one…matron” dialogue. IMHO a big winner, compared to repetitive royalty free musak. Great stuff, I’ve enjoyed this series very much - and I have no intention of building it. Recently I paid a small fortune for some unopened 1970’s Tom Daniels Monogram cars. Talk about nostalgia, parts fit is speculative’ to say the least - but fantastic fun to build after all these years with modern tools.
Some viewers enjoy watching the quicker type builds on UA-cam, others (like myself for instance) really enjoy the more in depth approach. I’ll no doubt build this beautiful kit at some time in the future, making full use of this build series in doing so. 👍😎
Propellers in use don't get so much chipped as they get mucked up. They collect a lot of bugs, which leave a greyish, whitish streaked residue mostly on the leading ege, and to a lesser degree on the back side of the blade. If its horsefly sieason you may even get a red kill mark in some spots. This would routinely be cleaned (it reduces the efficiency of the propeller), but even a well maintained propeller tends to show remainders of this residue. When it's aphid season, the plane may come back from a flight with a black or green line all along its leading edges (both airfoils and propeller.) My experience is from sailplanes, which aren't particularly fast, but spend a lot of time in updrafts, which bring bugs up in higher layers. Sailplanes are kept immaculately clean, but our motor-glider has the traces of use I described on the back of the propeller.
Great work as usual Nige😉👌👏👏👏👏👏 Yeah, as for the 1mm weld seems, I gotta get me eyes tested...I didn't read ya vernier properly...old age ya understand🙈😬 I need new specs, but can only get around May because of medical aid (every two years)🙄
great post on dealing with the wing roots and underside, i know you are building your kit your way which is why your channel is so successful but must say i was hoping for the US version as no one else is doing it. Thanks for sharing Nigel
I think Airfix snobs are having a hard time accepting 'new' Airfix has made huge steps forward in terms of quality. I find it really exciting to have a familiar manufacturer re establishing themselves. I defy any manufacturer to produce a kit of this size and detail without the odd fit issue. Thanks for the frog tape tip! This is a great series!
Love the build, looks like it’s going together straight without gaps, if you’re happy with the results that’s all that matters. There are some builds out there that completed within a week or two and they are real dogs. BTW with the VMS black you can use VMS debonder either before the glue has dried or afterwards in the same way you do with surfacer. But if you do I also suggest cleaning the model very thoroughly before painting.
I'm working on a 1/72 scale C-47 and for the stripes I decided that hand painting them wouldn't turn out right at 1/72 but if I just masked them quickly and by eye that the effect would probably be pretty good and I'm actually pretty thrilled by the results!
Hi Nigel. Stu Fone, editor of Airfix Model World (AMW), built the IXc in the Spitfire IXc 'special' you feature at 4:11. 'Shane' is his stage name by the way... AMW is a title produced by Key Publishing, which is not part of Airfix. AMW has a contract license to use the Airfix logo but again, **is not** part of Airfix. TTFN Steve
More fascinating nuggets of info, Nige, thanks. I think I recall Will Pattison saying clear sprue was styrene in its purest form. I like Airfix's precise dimension for the stripes and prop tips. It is an undeniable fact that for a scale model, scale dimensions are a must for authenticity; "near enough" is not good enough, especially at smaller scales.
Can’t wait to see this in paint Nigel ….in my opinion invasion stripes were applied in a rush , so they originally looked tatty …think they soon tidied them up and realised that they didn’t need them on the top half of the airframe ….so the only the underside had them on ….just my thoughts mate 👍
@@NigelsModellingBench , think they would have a quick turn around, if the aircraft didn’t suffer any damage or have any faults , re fuel , re arm and change of pilot so in my opinion they would’ve slapped paint over the top stripes ….so the camo scheme would’ve been darker / lighter in colour where the stripes are mate 👍even in the days after D day they were in desperate need of aircraft over the beeches for top cover .
As usual a great video Nigel. Ignore the blowhards, you’re a experienced old fashioned engineer as was my Dad although he was a Marine engineer. It’s in your makeup to look for a better more efficient way to get the right result and most of us can see how far you look ahead in the fit of parts to see if there are ways to improve on the original. Now a question if I may? On the circular parts of the nose cone assembly you have them on the little stick clips for painting. One with the larger central hole has the clip jammed open to hold it firmly, how did you get it to stay open please?
Great work on this so far Nigel! Don't get too caught up on invasion stripes for the scheme you're doing - yes, they were hastily applied a few days before D-Day which is where the pictures of dodgy lines often come from; however, the stripes were touched in, over-painted/reduced and actually painted in a lot more pristine quite soon after D-Day, and so they're far more crisp. Commander's aircraft before D-Day were also done a lot more pristine than the rest of the Squadron's. It is a minefield, yes, but for the aircraft and timeframe you're doing yours, it isn't so out of place to mask it neatly and do it! Of course, at the end of the day, it is your model so you paint it however you please!
@@NigelsModellingBench Not for the time period you're doing - keep them on the underside of the wings, and the lower part of the fuselage under the roundel! If you want to make it look "different" you could always do a look on the upper wings where the stripes have been overpainted and there's the appearance of newer paint on the top, but again, it is entirely up to you! It is a big enough model where you have quite a lot of wiggle room on how you wish to paint and weather it! I'm looking forward to seeing how you decide to paint and weather this kit, especially after all the hard work you've put into getting a good fit on it all!
Thanks Scott, I thought the lower wings only were painted along with the lower fuselage only? Are you suggesting that she once had stripes all round and then they were painted out with fresh Camo?
@@NigelsModellingBench I would imagine so, unless your particular aircraft was done in its own way, which in all honesty I wouldn't know without specific research! But the rule of thumb was that on 3/4 June, all 2TAF aircraft had full stripes painted (tops and bottoms of wings, full fuselage), and then at some point in later June and into July the full stripes were overpainted in the upper areas and the lower stripes were left intact but tidied up in the field. These lower markings were then left on in this state until the end of 1944!
Just to say that the Spitfire IXc book you refer to is not the responsibility of Airfix and is nothing really to do with them. It is a commercial product from Key Publishing put out by the Airfix Model World monthly magazine team at that publisher. Airfix allows the use of their logo in return for a certain amount of advertising, which keeps the magazine independent and capable of objective reporting on Airfix products. Airfix Model World has done a wonderful job of serving the modelling marketplace but they are totally independent which allows honest objectivity. Key is of course the publisher for most aviation magazines on the bookstall. And no, I do not need to declare a vested interest! But Nigel, your coverage of this build is a must-watch series - very well done indeed!
I don't think you would see badly beat up Spitfire blades, they were wood/composite weren't they? They'd have a metal leading edge which might get some erosion but any bad damage or erosion would likely result in replacement.
@Nigel’s Modelling Bench www.historicpropellers.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/spitfire.v.twobladedisplay.jpg Looks like they do its just painted over normally. It would be brass or copper I think. That's from an earlier 3 blade propeller, but the 4 blades is probably of similar construction.
Hi Nigel,when you come to chipping the propeller blades,look at pics of crashed aircraft with the Rotol constant speed propellers,they shatter and not bend because im pretty sure they were made from wood,not metal.
@@NigelsModellingBench No problem. These things happen. But, like you, I always thought the prop was metal until I did a little research in to it. So, how does one weather a wooden prop? Can’t say I have done one before. I will have to look for old photos of the Spit or other aircraft with wooden props and see what I can come up with. Best wishes, DGD
Further to my previous reply on this subject, I have discovered that because the prop is made of wood it is important that moisture is kept out of the laminations. It seems be that every time the aircraft lands the prop is examined and if any chips are detected they are immediately treated and painted. So, in effect, they never show any signs of wear or weathering. I got this information from a site which highlights the treatment and repair of wooden props as fitted to the FW190.
Greg over at Greg’s Models recently painted invasion stripes using a mix of masking, hand painting with a brush and light dust with an airbrush which is worth a look.
If we want better kits from manufacturers, we have to be critical. It should not be the role of consumers, modellers and reviewers to blow sunshine… IMO
The blades were made of a wooden composite and then covered with a brass / phosphor bronze alloy mesh and a cellulose top coat so metal chipping would not be seen. See this video about four minutes in…. ua-cam.com/video/ddLNsQC7Srs/v-deo.html
@@NigelsModellingBench One of the best representations I've seen is sponging 'black on black' e.g. NATO and rubber blacks over straight black. Gave an authentic worn look. I tried it on the Revell 1/32 Spit II and it looked great (I did add scratching and chipping too!). From Will Pattison I think.
@@NigelsModellingBench Just checked out that episode and yes the tyres look fab! I also seem to remember seeing somewhere weathering of the prop by lightly sponging thinners over the dry black and I think I did that on my Revell experiment too.
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Hi Nigel, please don't be too concerned about those who continue to criticize the way you work, or suggest that the time you take to get parts, or sub-assemblies to fit correctly is a waste of time. The majority of us out here are very happy with the highly entertaining, knowledgeable and worthwhile effort you bring to building kits.
Just reply suggesting that you would be happy to receive images of their own completed work, then see how many you receive. There are just too many armchair critics in modelling, the majority of who would never get close to your highly detailed finished results. Kind regards David Porter London
Cheers from Ok, USA. Excellent Art. Cheers in Ok is HOORAH! Peace.
I love this kit. I love the plastic also. I’m in my mid 50s and enjoy trying to find a more appropriate way to assemble a kit other that kit instructions. Sometimes they get it right sometimes they don’t. If I could find the pic I would show you the kits I got on my 4th birthday back in 1972!!! Yep been at it that long.!! Keep ‘em coming.
nothing wrong with your build nigel, the spit is building up very well. Clamps If you need mole grips worry lol
Great video my friend the spitfire is looking fantastic please don’t change what you do that’s why I love following your channel you go into great detail everything you do you explain well that’s the great thing about your videos I always come away having learned something look forward to seeing more in the future thanks for sharing 👍👍
lol - I love frog tape - and also, think I'll be following your process... there any many ways to 'improve' kits, but i love how you think ahead on the consequences of fixes...
I agree with davep4703 - your videos are truly excellent! One thing though, the aperture at the port wing root is not the housing for a gun light but is for the gun camera.
Great build and attention to details. Your doing a fine job with the build and videos. Keep up the great work.
Thanks, will do!
Another great video. Good advice. Is there a Mrs Surfacer? ha ha…..
Not that I know of
looking good nice work
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi Nigel. Carry on what your doing mate very informative. Yours is the only build of this kit I'm watching
Loving the build Nigel. Definitely want to start mine currently living in the stash. Ignore all the people stating you’re fussing too much. All the little detail is awesome and it’s your shelf queen so carry on mate!!! Keep up the quality work and I’m enjoying seeing the progress. I’m in complete agreement with you about the plastic from Airfix.
Very nice progress indeed!
I was not going to get one of thees but looks like one is on its way hope I’m not disappointed
Ahhhh ....... a lovely bit of plastic indeed. Plastic is indeed wonderful these days.
She's coming along nicely Nigel. Fine workmanship.👍
I am enjoying your in depth approach even though I would consider myself a relatively experienced modeller. We can always learn something new if we care to.
You clearly have your preferred way of doing things which works perfectly as far as I can see. Please don't feel the need to explain your processes. As you've mentioned in past videos, UA-cam comes with a fast forward button for those with less patience.
Keep on keeping on and please, lets have part #13 asap. 😉
Cheers.
Thank for your kind words Guy.
Very positive about the ‘Carry On’ “Oooh err missus!” And “A hard one…matron” dialogue. IMHO a big winner, compared to repetitive royalty free musak. Great stuff, I’ve enjoyed this series very much - and I have no intention of building it. Recently I paid a small fortune for some unopened 1970’s Tom Daniels Monogram cars. Talk about nostalgia, parts fit is speculative’ to say the least - but fantastic fun to build after all these years with modern tools.
Thank you so much for your kind words.
Some viewers enjoy watching the quicker type builds on UA-cam, others (like myself for instance) really enjoy the more in depth approach. I’ll no doubt build this beautiful kit at some time in the future, making full use of this build series in doing so. 👍😎
Thank you sir. Glad you enjoy my stuff.
I don't usually do 1/32 or 1/24 but that Kotari Spitfire Mark 1 has my eye since Nigel mentioned it... I'm a complete sucker for early versions!
Hi Nigel, the Spitfire is looking great, you are doing a great job on this 'giant' of a kit, bext regards from a Kiwi living in Australia.
Masterful work Nigel!👍😃
Thank you! Cheers Michael
Propellers in use don't get so much chipped as they get mucked up. They collect a lot of bugs, which leave a greyish, whitish streaked residue mostly on the leading ege, and to a lesser degree on the back side of the blade. If its horsefly sieason you may even get a red kill mark in some spots. This would routinely be cleaned (it reduces the efficiency of the propeller), but even a well maintained propeller tends to show remainders of this residue.
When it's aphid season, the plane may come back from a flight with a black or green line all along its leading edges (both airfoils and propeller.)
My experience is from sailplanes, which aren't particularly fast, but spend a lot of time in updrafts, which bring bugs up in higher layers. Sailplanes are kept immaculately clean, but our motor-glider has the traces of use I described on the back of the propeller.
Great work as usual Nige😉👌👏👏👏👏👏 Yeah, as for the 1mm weld seems, I gotta get me eyes tested...I didn't read ya vernier properly...old age ya understand🙈😬 I need new specs, but can only get around May because of medical aid (every two years)🙄
Loving this build Nigel. Still waiting for the last part of the K2. Love that model
It runs up to part 18 John.. so a few more days to go.
great post on dealing with the wing roots and underside, i know you are building your kit your way which is why your channel is so successful but must say i was hoping for the US version as no one else is doing it. Thanks for sharing Nigel
You're welcome Ralph.
I think Airfix snobs are having a hard time accepting 'new' Airfix has made huge steps forward in terms of quality. I find it really exciting to have a familiar manufacturer re establishing themselves. I defy any manufacturer to produce a kit of this size and detail without the odd fit issue. Thanks for the frog tape tip! This is a great series!
Exactly.. overall the fit is wonderful.
Love the build, looks like it’s going together straight without gaps, if you’re happy with the results that’s all that matters. There are some builds out there that completed within a week or two and they are real dogs. BTW with the VMS black you can use VMS debonder either before the glue has dried or afterwards in the same way you do with surfacer. But if you do I also suggest cleaning the model very thoroughly before painting.
I'm working on a 1/72 scale C-47 and for the stripes I decided that hand painting them wouldn't turn out right at 1/72 but if I just masked them quickly and by eye that the effect would probably be pretty good and I'm actually pretty thrilled by the results!
Hi Nigel. Stu Fone, editor of Airfix Model World (AMW), built the IXc in the Spitfire IXc 'special' you feature at 4:11. 'Shane' is his stage name by the way...
AMW is a title produced by Key Publishing, which is not part of Airfix. AMW has a contract license to use the Airfix logo but again, **is not** part of Airfix.
TTFN
Steve
More fascinating nuggets of info, Nige, thanks. I think I recall Will Pattison saying clear sprue was styrene in its purest form. I like Airfix's precise dimension for the stripes and prop tips. It is an undeniable fact that for a scale model, scale dimensions are a must for authenticity; "near enough" is not good enough, especially at smaller scales.
Great point!
Can’t wait to see this in paint Nigel ….in my opinion invasion stripes were applied in a rush , so they originally looked tatty …think they soon tidied them up and realised that they didn’t need them on the top half of the airframe ….so the only the underside had them on ….just my thoughts mate 👍
Yeah, I think you're right Richie. Not sure if the stripes were washed off or painted over?
@@NigelsModellingBench , think they would have a quick turn around, if the aircraft didn’t suffer any damage or have any faults , re fuel , re arm and change of pilot so in my opinion they would’ve slapped paint over the top stripes ….so the camo scheme would’ve been darker / lighter in colour where the stripes are mate 👍even in the days after D day they were in desperate need of aircraft over the beeches for top cover .
As usual a great video Nigel. Ignore the blowhards, you’re a experienced old fashioned engineer as was my Dad although he was a Marine engineer. It’s in your makeup to look for a better more efficient way to get the right result and most of us can see how far you look ahead in the fit of parts to see if there are ways to improve on the original.
Now a question if I may? On the circular parts of the nose cone assembly you have them on the little stick clips for painting. One with the larger central hole has the clip jammed open to hold it firmly, how did you get it to stay open please?
👍👍
Great work on this so far Nigel! Don't get too caught up on invasion stripes for the scheme you're doing - yes, they were hastily applied a few days before D-Day which is where the pictures of dodgy lines often come from; however, the stripes were touched in, over-painted/reduced and actually painted in a lot more pristine quite soon after D-Day, and so they're far more crisp. Commander's aircraft before D-Day were also done a lot more pristine than the rest of the Squadron's. It is a minefield, yes, but for the aircraft and timeframe you're doing yours, it isn't so out of place to mask it neatly and do it! Of course, at the end of the day, it is your model so you paint it however you please!
Thank you Scott. What do you think about the upper wing stripes? Present or not?
@@NigelsModellingBench Not for the time period you're doing - keep them on the underside of the wings, and the lower part of the fuselage under the roundel! If you want to make it look "different" you could always do a look on the upper wings where the stripes have been overpainted and there's the appearance of newer paint on the top, but again, it is entirely up to you! It is a big enough model where you have quite a lot of wiggle room on how you wish to paint and weather it! I'm looking forward to seeing how you decide to paint and weather this kit, especially after all the hard work you've put into getting a good fit on it all!
Thanks Scott, I thought the lower wings only were painted along with the lower fuselage only? Are you suggesting that she once had stripes all round and then they were painted out with fresh Camo?
@@NigelsModellingBench I would imagine so, unless your particular aircraft was done in its own way, which in all honesty I wouldn't know without specific research! But the rule of thumb was that on 3/4 June, all 2TAF aircraft had full stripes painted (tops and bottoms of wings, full fuselage), and then at some point in later June and into July the full stripes were overpainted in the upper areas and the lower stripes were left intact but tidied up in the field. These lower markings were then left on in this state until the end of 1944!
Ok.. so maybe spray over the stripes with fresh green/grey paint and lit the white black show through a bit??
Just to say that the Spitfire IXc book you refer to is not the responsibility of Airfix and is nothing really to do with them. It is a commercial product from Key Publishing put out by the Airfix Model World monthly magazine team at that publisher. Airfix allows the use of their logo in return for a certain amount of advertising, which keeps the magazine independent and capable of objective reporting on Airfix products. Airfix Model World has done a wonderful job of serving the modelling marketplace but they are totally independent which allows honest objectivity. Key is of course the publisher for most aviation magazines on the bookstall. And no, I do not need to declare a vested interest! But Nigel, your coverage of this build is a must-watch series - very well done indeed!
Thank you very much for this very explanatory message. I was not aware of the independence. Thanks too for your very kind words David.
I don't think you would see badly beat up Spitfire blades, they were wood/composite weren't they? They'd have a metal leading edge which might get some erosion but any bad damage or erosion would likely result in replacement.
Apparently they don't have a metal leading edge?
@Nigel’s Modelling Bench www.historicpropellers.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/spitfire.v.twobladedisplay.jpg
Looks like they do its just painted over normally. It would be brass or copper I think. That's from an earlier 3 blade propeller, but the 4 blades is probably of similar construction.
Hi Nigel,when you come to chipping the propeller blades,look at pics of crashed aircraft with the Rotol constant speed propellers,they shatter and not bend because im pretty sure they were made from wood,not metal.
You are correct. They are made of wood, which is something I have already pointed out to Nigel but my comment has mysteriously disappeared.
Sorry David. This is happening a LOT lately. It is really pi$$ing me off because we are all losing some valuable info.
@@NigelsModellingBench No problem. These things happen. But, like you, I always thought the prop was metal until I did a little research in to it. So, how does one weather a wooden prop? Can’t say I have done one before. I will have to look for old photos of the Spit or other aircraft with wooden props and see what I can come up with.
Best wishes,
DGD
Further to my previous reply on this subject, I have discovered that because the prop is made of wood it is important that moisture is kept out of the laminations. It seems be that every time the aircraft lands the prop is examined and if any chips are detected they are immediately treated and painted. So, in effect, they never show any signs of wear or weathering. I got this information from a site which highlights the treatment and repair of wooden props as fitted to the FW190.
Hi Nigel, did you prime the prop before the yellow or was that straight on the plastic?
I dont remember, i usually paint white before yellow.
Hi Nigel Airfix are now owned by Hornby and if any one watches tv Hornby have a program each month by the way how can I get a copy of that magazine
Not gun light, but gun camera
Re stripes, even roughly painted stripes would appear straight at scale surely?
I think the rough painting would show in 1/24 scale.. but I'm not going to try it.
Greg over at Greg’s Models recently painted invasion stripes using a mix of masking, hand painting with a brush and light dust with an airbrush which is worth a look.
So may purist’s in this hobby. Guys in my club are appalled if you use non Tamiya paint on a Tamiya kit!.
If we want better kits from manufacturers, we have to be critical. It should not be the role of consumers, modellers and reviewers to blow sunshine… IMO
100% correct Alison. brilliant!!
The blades were made of a wooden composite and then covered with a brass / phosphor bronze alloy mesh and a cellulose top coat so metal chipping would not be seen. See this video about four minutes in…. ua-cam.com/video/ddLNsQC7Srs/v-deo.html
Thank you for this Dave. I may just "scratch" them a bit then?
@@NigelsModellingBench One of the best representations I've seen is sponging 'black on black' e.g. NATO and rubber blacks over straight black. Gave an authentic worn look. I tried it on the Revell 1/32 Spit II and it looked great (I did add scratching and chipping too!). From Will Pattison I think.
I did that on my Lancaster tyres and they look bloody awesome!!
@@NigelsModellingBench Just checked out that episode and yes the tyres look fab! I also seem to remember seeing somewhere weathering of the prop by lightly sponging thinners over the dry black and I think I did that on my Revell experiment too.