Thank you for stating to only nail the tongue when not necessary to nail the face. I swear most YT videos have people nailing the face of the wood just to create more work for themselves.
If you would like to go to the next level get the ends "end matched" which is used in flooring mostly. It is basically a manufacturer pattern cut on the end and allows the joints to lock together ...super clean look.
Are you referring to a factory end cut? . Id strip the walls with 1by4 perpendicular to the STDs an install it vertical.....no joints an can broom it easily to clean it. My knowledge is free this time
You should 22½° the seams on the studs. You could go 45°, but that's more than necessary. Also the side facing out in the video is typically the side you put against the studs. I personally prefer using tongue and groove that has prefinished ends (end matched) meaning theres a tongue and groove on the ends of the boards as well. When you cut the last board to fit the current span, you use the cut edge of the the leftover as your starter for the next row. It's also a good idea to use a small cutoff chunk of board as a block to hammer against on top of your boards you're installing, because sometimes they don't sit tight against the row beneath them. This prevents you unintentionally smashing the tongue by hitting it directly with your hammer. And you always use a spacer under your bottom row. Usually ½" to ¾" to allow space for flooring to be installed as well as to allow for expansion. Never sit them tight to the subfloor.
You should start from the top down so you get a full piece at the top, the baseboard will hide the bottom, if you start from the bottom you might have a small strip at the top after, I always start top down 👍
Thanks 4 the intro. From a fellow Texan in Ne. Doing a porch, just got down insulation and vapor barriers. Now on 2 the pine. Your videos covered everything I needed to know Thanks bunches!!!!!!! Let you know how it goes. Ms T Ellis
Looking at the camera height.....i really want to know how tall are you?And whats the dimensions of the doors.....here at my house in india we have 7' high doors🥲
I'm wondering what you plan to use to seal all of this. And did you seal it before you installed? Or will you do that once you're completely done? We recently purchased a home and I want to do an accent wall (to begin with) with T&G knotty pine. But I have no idea what to use as a finish and whether to finish them before installation or afterward. Thanks for any advise.
We did not seal it as we wanted the all-natural smell and feel of the wood. It’s most important to seal flooring, but there’s also the problem of the color of the wood changing over time, especially if it’s going to be exposed to sunlight. We’ll see if we decide to seal it down the road.
@@KlausMediagenuine question.. why don’t you use a clear sealer to keep the natural look of your wood while still sealing the wood.. This wood will 100% expand and contrast as well as absorb moisture
Great video, very informative! One thing though, I think people who have suffered house fires would argue that having a fire-barrier (sheetrock) is far from crazy talk. Cheers!
For the outlets would you need outlet box extensions? How about windows corners and doors? Trim necessary? Inside of windows if you had sheetrock would you have to add wood instead to match up? I'm going to paint mine if I go that route. Any special primer? I'm considering using tongue and groove in leu of sheetrock as I can't get skim coating down pat yet.
I was so intrigued with your teaching that I was was really trying to understand how you do the ceiling. I don't even have a ceiling like that lol. Such a great video. Amazing teacher. I wish more people would explain things thoroughly like this. Thanks.
Just put a level on them every few boards, what’s most important is that the boards are parallel with the floor and ceiling, even if they’re not perfectly level.
Being a MN guy. Vapor barrier (interior and exterior). I just got done putting tongue and groove in my fish house. A double layer of 6 mil poly on all exterior walls and ceiling.
I have a small home. I want to make it look like a cabin interior. I have been looking for videos like this because that’s exactly what I would like to do over the existing drywall. I’m planing on stone or brick style walls to offset all the wood and white shiplap on ceilings with can lights. The home is about 1100 square feet. I would like to know what kind of planking this is and is there a more affordable option to get the similar look as your video? Also, what do you do with the corners of 2 walls meeting with the same planks? Does one side wall butt on the other side wall and you trim the corner?
By the way I have a family cabin in Colorado in the mountains and we started working on it In 1955 and it's being finished still and my family used hand tools for everything not electric tools and its look amazing and we just this last summer had a stone work
Good video! Question... I plan on installing tongue & groove cedar in bathroom with drywall side walls. Should I install the tongue & groove ceiling first before the drywall side walls or should I do the drywall walls first and then ceiling last?
Hey bro i was looking at my studs looking to get started soon lol considering i been saying this for a month i swear ima have at it this month 😂 but using a leveler how would you deal with uneven studs. Im affairs of it lifting warping or popping out.
Hi, Thank you for your lesson. I’m about to start doing this in my house, for a small accent wall to cover up paneling. This might seem silly but would a reciprocating saw work or should I purchase a jigsaw for the cut outs. Also should I purchase a nail gun or is it possible to do it by hand?
Ok, here’s my question. Hoping you answer. The last board at the top, how do you get it flush with the ceiling and get the tongue in the groove? I’m almost done and can’t figure that part out.
what about corners? We are installing this and had one wall done from floor to ceiling. But when starting the connecting wall, only the bottom 4 or 5 boards lined up in the corner for that straight line from wall to wall. Each one going up, is off just a small amount, and the more you go up the more the line is off. It just don't make sense unless the board is actually a different height than the others? Anyway, I noticed at windows you cut the board out (notched out) on the long board. I'm curious, going on up the window did you use a long board and notch it out all the way up? Or just cut the board from wall to window and same on other side?
I cut the boards to length, I find that cutting outside is easier on my sinuses haha I had that same phenomenon with the strange corners. I put a corner piece of trim and that seemed to help. Most of our corners in this little house are used by shelves or cabinets anyway so it’s hardly noticeable.
Thx for vid. Is there a need for a 1/16 or 1/8 inch gap between boards to allow for contraction and expansion? I use a nail to gap when I’ve installed shiplap and was wondering if that’s needed for tounge and groove?
5:44 it looks like the notch at the bottom of the outlet box is a little much if you were to put the faceplate for your outlet in. Might wanna go back and recut. Or else it’ll be noticeable. Unless you dont care than ignore me.
Of course! Self tapping screws would work, but you would have to screw it into the face of the board instead of the lip, which may be more difficult to hide the head of.
When we installed it on the ceiling, we started on the top and worked our way down, so we face-nailed the first one once and nailed up through the tongue with the rest.
Please tell me you’re gonna take those few boards back off where your seams lined up and were loose and cut and fix those….. from what I know you install it like you would LVP flooring where you start with a full piece then a half piece then a short piece to keep your seams from lining up
@@talmagetrujillo637 Yup it turned out real nice, I’d say it’s important to have a scrap piece of the tongue and groove to use to lightly hammer boards into place. Also a second person is a big help on the ceiling
Thanks Klaus! I am renovating a 90 year old cabin and nothing is square or plumb. It's balloon construction and built on surface pilings (not sunk into the ground). There is not a level surface in the building. I have (at least) two issues. The first is obvious and the second maybe not so. The second problem is that if I put anything too square, crisp, "perfect", it shows how out of whack everything else is. This is typically not a problem for me since square, crisp, and "perfect" are words that somewhat over state my ability. Nevertheless the second issue is a consideration. Back to the first, my floor drops 1.5" over 18 feet and it's not a straight line. Starting flat on the floor is not an option. I'll end up having my wife help (she is a very good saw man although hates the term) and she brings me patience. Once the bottom row is right the rest should come together rather quickly until we reach the ceiling/floor above. That floor is uneven in a different way! Boy this is going to be worth it though.
I don’t envy you, but in a way… I do! Renovating an old cabin like that sounds so rewarding. I wish you the best of luck and keep us updated on your progress!
@@KlausMedia thanks. I can use the help! Here's how I approached it. The T&G is going in horizontally not vertically. When it comes to level and plumb it is the perception that matters. It needs to look right to the eye not simply the bubble. The areas that must look right are the corners where two walls meet and across open door ways where the horizontal line is broken. The last areas of importance are the floor and ceiling gaps. I took a laser level and starting at eye level struck several reference lines paying particular attention to the corners and doorways. I started at eye level because that's how you see the room when you walk in not the floor or the ceiling. Once I had the reference lines I set the bottom board on each wall approx half a plank from the uneven floor and made sure that it was level, the corner joint was right and the cross doorway lines were right. As I built up the wall I checked level on every plank and where it was out would adjust it to level. This reduced the cumulative error or "tower of pisa" effect. A 1/16" adjustment will not be seen but an 18/16" error will make the wall look like it is leaning. Eye level references, matched corners and doorways, maintain level as you add rows.
SIDING IS USED OUTSIDE!
This is notty pine paneling
Thank you for being clear and getting to the point. Also, showing exactly how to angle the nail gun was a plus.
I'd suggest a 22.5 scarf mitre instead of butt joins
Thank you for stating to only nail the tongue when not necessary to nail the face. I swear most YT videos have people nailing the face of the wood just to create more work for themselves.
If you would like to go to the next level get the ends "end matched" which is used in flooring mostly. It is basically a manufacturer pattern cut on the end and allows the joints to lock together ...super clean look.
Are you referring to a factory end cut? . Id strip the walls with 1by4 perpendicular to the STDs an install it vertical.....no joints an can broom it easily to clean it. My knowledge is free this time
You should 22½° the seams on the studs. You could go 45°, but that's more than necessary. Also the side facing out in the video is typically the side you put against the studs. I personally prefer using tongue and groove that has prefinished ends (end matched) meaning theres a tongue and groove on the ends of the boards as well. When you cut the last board to fit the current span, you use the cut edge of the the leftover as your starter for the next row. It's also a good idea to use a small cutoff chunk of board as a block to hammer against on top of your boards you're installing, because sometimes they don't sit tight against the row beneath them. This prevents you unintentionally smashing the tongue by hitting it directly with your hammer. And you always use a spacer under your bottom row. Usually ½" to ¾" to allow space for flooring to be installed as well as to allow for expansion. Never sit them tight to the subfloor.
You should start from the top down so you get a full piece at the top, the baseboard will hide the bottom, if you start from the bottom you might have a small strip at the top after, I always start top down 👍
Great idea ...
So instead of having the toung up, do you have the tounge facing down when you start from the top? Seems like starting from the top would be a hassle.
@@pascb7360tongue up
Manufacturers instructions say to start at the bottom with the groove down. Huh?
Thanks 4 the intro. From a fellow Texan in Ne. Doing a porch, just got down insulation and vapor barriers. Now on 2 the pine. Your videos covered everything I needed to know Thanks bunches!!!!!!! Let you know how it goes. Ms T Ellis
Looking at the camera height.....i really want to know how tall are you?And whats the dimensions of the doors.....here at my house in india we have 7' high doors🥲
The standard American door is 6’8”, and I am 6’4”.
@@KlausMedia OMG! Got reply😁
I somehow knew you are quite tall as being 6 ft I don't feel like the door top is so near to my head top😅
Thank you so much for this helpful video! Also, love your strong speaking voice! 😊
I'm wondering what you plan to use to seal all of this. And did you seal it before you installed? Or will you do that once you're completely done? We recently purchased a home and I want to do an accent wall (to begin with) with T&G knotty pine. But I have no idea what to use as a finish and whether to finish them before installation or afterward. Thanks for any advise.
We did not seal it as we wanted the all-natural smell and feel of the wood. It’s most important to seal flooring, but there’s also the problem of the color of the wood changing over time, especially if it’s going to be exposed to sunlight. We’ll see if we decide to seal it down the road.
@@KlausMediagenuine question.. why don’t you use a clear sealer to keep the natural look of your wood while still sealing the wood.. This wood will 100% expand and contrast as well as absorb moisture
He wants the cedar smell. Sealer, even clear, will prevent cedar odor from wafting over the interior @@LilChuyRedwoodCity
Great video, very informative! One thing though, I think people who have suffered house fires would argue that having a fire-barrier (sheetrock) is far from crazy talk. Cheers!
My point was when everything else in a house is very flammable, using one material that isn't won't make much of a difference. Cheers!
Most wood coverings are considered a fire barrier.
really informative , but how do you cover the joints wall to roof, or how to do corners edges
We used trim pieces for that
For the outlets would you need outlet box extensions? How about windows corners and doors? Trim necessary? Inside of windows if you had sheetrock would you have to add wood instead to match up? I'm going to paint mine if I go that route. Any special primer? I'm considering using tongue and groove in leu of sheetrock as I can't get skim coating down pat yet.
If you aren't adding crown molding, it's best to start at the ceiling and work your way down. Tongue down.
I take the same position.
Seems like you'd be creating a lot more work for yourself during install, for no real benefit?
@@zebalewski1 What? The top is seen, the bottom isn't seen because of trim.
I was so intrigued with your teaching that I was was really trying to understand how you do the ceiling. I don't even have a ceiling like that lol. Such a great video. Amazing teacher. I wish more people would explain things thoroughly like this. Thanks.
What's the dimensions of one panel
They are single boards, not panels.
But what's the breadth of one plank or siding that you install in this video,are they 4 inch broad or more than that
Did you do anything special to keep the boards level as you moved up the wall?
Just put a level on them every few boards, what’s most important is that the boards are parallel with the floor and ceiling, even if they’re not perfectly level.
Good to see that your making progress!
It’s looking really good!
You’re very well spoken
Are you doing these on your own
Being a MN guy. Vapor barrier (interior and exterior). I just got done putting tongue and groove in my fish house. A double layer of 6 mil poly on all exterior walls and ceiling.
I have a small home. I want to make it look like a cabin interior. I have been looking for videos like this because that’s exactly what I would like to do over the existing drywall. I’m planing on stone or brick style walls to offset all the wood and white shiplap on ceilings with can lights. The home is about 1100 square feet. I would like to know what kind of planking this is and is there a more affordable option to get the similar look as your video? Also, what do you do with the corners of 2 walls meeting with the same planks? Does one side wall butt on the other side wall and you trim the corner?
These are tongue and groove planks from Lowes. And yes, that’s what I did with corner trim.
Can you use 18 ga nails?
Looking great, man! I was gonna ask about vapor barrier, but I'm not in construction. If your expert says it's not necessary, then I believe him. 😁
We have a house wrap on the exterior, but in our high heat low moisture area, air flow is actually better to prevent molds, etc
By the way I have a family cabin in Colorado in the mountains and we started working on it In 1955 and it's being finished still and my family used hand tools for everything not electric tools and its look amazing and we just this last summer had a stone work
Good video! Question... I plan on installing tongue & groove cedar in bathroom with drywall side walls. Should I install the tongue & groove ceiling first before the drywall side walls or should I do the drywall walls first and then ceiling last?
In general you always install ceilings first
Hey bro i was looking at my studs looking to get started soon lol considering i been saying this for a month i swear ima have at it this month 😂 but using a leveler how would you deal with uneven studs. Im affairs of it lifting warping or popping out.
Hi, Thank you for your lesson. I’m about to start doing this in my house, for a small accent wall to cover up paneling. This might seem silly but would a reciprocating saw work or should I purchase a jigsaw for the cut outs. Also should I purchase a nail gun or is it possible to do it by hand?
Everything is possible by hand, but a lot harder to do. Also jigsaw 100%
Good job, great video
Ok, here’s my question. Hoping you answer.
The last board at the top, how do you get it flush with the ceiling and get the tongue in the groove? I’m almost done and can’t figure that part out.
We ripped the last board about half an inch shorter than the gap to fit, then used trim to cover the hole.
what about corners? We are installing this and had one wall done from floor to ceiling. But when starting the connecting wall, only the bottom 4 or 5 boards lined up in the corner for that straight line from wall to wall. Each one going up, is off just a small amount, and the more you go up the more the line is off. It just don't make sense unless the board is actually a different height than the others? Anyway, I noticed at windows you cut the board out (notched out) on the long board. I'm curious, going on up the window did you use a long board and notch it out all the way up? Or just cut the board from wall to window and same on other side?
I cut the boards to length, I find that cutting outside is easier on my sinuses haha I had that same phenomenon with the strange corners. I put a corner piece of trim and that seemed to help. Most of our corners in this little house are used by shelves or cabinets anyway so it’s hardly noticeable.
Thank you
Thx for vid. Is there a need for a 1/16 or 1/8 inch gap between boards to allow for contraction and expansion? I use a nail to gap when I’ve installed shiplap and was wondering if that’s needed for tounge and groove?
We didn’t do that, but we also were installing in the heat of summer already. May be a worthy idea if you’re installing in the winter.
5:44 it looks like the notch at the bottom of the outlet box is a little much if you were to put the faceplate for your outlet in. Might wanna go back and recut. Or else it’ll be noticeable. Unless you dont care than ignore me.
It wasn’t :)
I agree with the commentor on increasing fire hazard.
Did you put some finish on it?
No we chose not to
Hey Klaus, 2 questions… where did you get your wood? What did you pay per ft?
Lowes, I don’t remember the price
I want to avoid the mess of drywall so im happy i found this option
This Should be #KlausBuilds ❤
The Hut Looking Great,Chief 🔥
Do you have a video of your progress on the ceiling and also trimming out the corners?
I’ve several videos updating on the progress of everything, yes.
Can you use screws rather than nails? My framing is steel but want to put recycled timber on walls.
Of course! Self tapping screws would work, but you would have to screw it into the face of the board instead of the lip, which may be more difficult to hide the head of.
Thanks mate
All makes scence😊
On the ceiling how do you nail it if you put the tongue up top do you face nail all ceiling boards
When we installed it on the ceiling, we started on the top and worked our way down, so we face-nailed the first one once and nailed up through the tongue with the rest.
Please tell me you’re gonna take those few boards back off where your seams lined up and were loose and cut and fix those….. from what I know you install it like you would LVP flooring where you start with a full piece then a half piece then a short piece to keep your seams from lining up
You’re right, that’s how it’s installed. None of the seams lined up, not sure what you were seeing, but that would drive me crazy haha
@@KlausMedia at 12:35 apparently it just wasn’t nailed yet but 2 short pieces have seams in both sides lined up
Oh wasn’t the at places there just for demonstration purposes for the tongue and groove mechanism?
Its going to be covered with cabinetry just listen
Great tips! Thanks for the info! Looks good!!!!!
Hey just wondering if I’m doing an exterior wall should I use Vapor barrier
awesome video. but also, brother, galvanized water piping AND its on an exterior wall?? Bruh
No galvanized pipe in this house, also we’re in Texas. Exterior walls aren’t a problem for us
@@KlausMedia What kind of piping was that in the bathroom? Also I wouldnt say texas is immune to freezes if we look back the past few years lol.
Pvc and pex
why don't you have a vapor barrier on the wall?
We do under the exterior siding
Shouldn’t you the do the opposite for the ceiling ? So you can hide the nail
The groove hides the nail 👍
Should have said the first step is to sell your first born so you can afford the current price of wood......
Yes, that
.56 a linear foot around most Amish lumber mills here. That’s for 1x6 kiln dried t&g planed on one face. Nice video btw!
What about corners? Mitre? Butt? Trim?
Butt and trim, depending on the spot.
I cant get my 8ft boards to snap together😭
It can be tricky, make sure they’re not warped and make sure you have help!
Great video. What size finish nails did you use?
2 inch 15 gauge
looks amazing good luck ❤️❤️
You are the best.
looking good klaus
Thanks for the good video, gathering information to put these boards on a ceiling
Did you do your ceiling? Any tips? I'm getting ready to do walls and ceiling soon.
@@talmagetrujillo637 Yup it turned out real nice, I’d say it’s important to have a scrap piece of the tongue and groove to use to lightly hammer boards into place. Also a second person is a big help on the ceiling
any stain or sealer?
We did none of that, no.
Galvanized pipe for plumbing is asking for future disasters. Also you need a new electrician ;)
that pipe is almost certainly just a nipple to cap off the connection so the water can be turned back on.
Thanks Klaus! I am renovating a 90 year old cabin and nothing is square or plumb. It's balloon construction and built on surface pilings (not sunk into the ground). There is not a level surface in the building. I have (at least) two issues. The first is obvious and the second maybe not so. The second problem is that if I put anything too square, crisp, "perfect", it shows how out of whack everything else is. This is typically not a problem for me since square, crisp, and "perfect" are words that somewhat over state my ability. Nevertheless the second issue is a consideration. Back to the first, my floor drops 1.5" over 18 feet and it's not a straight line. Starting flat on the floor is not an option. I'll end up having my wife help (she is a very good saw man although hates the term) and she brings me patience. Once the bottom row is right the rest should come together rather quickly until we reach the ceiling/floor above. That floor is uneven in a different way! Boy this is going to be worth it though.
I don’t envy you, but in a way… I do! Renovating an old cabin like that sounds so rewarding. I wish you the best of luck and keep us updated on your progress!
@@KlausMedia thanks. I can use the help!
Here's how I approached it. The T&G is going in horizontally not vertically. When it comes to level and plumb it is the perception that matters. It needs to look right to the eye not simply the bubble. The areas that must look right are the corners where two walls meet and across open door ways where the horizontal line is broken. The last areas of importance are the floor and ceiling gaps. I took a laser level and starting at eye level struck several reference lines paying particular attention to the corners and doorways. I started at eye level because that's how you see the room when you walk in not the floor or the ceiling. Once I had the reference lines I set the bottom board on each wall approx half a plank from the uneven floor and made sure that it was level, the corner joint was right and the cross doorway lines were right. As I built up the wall I checked level on every plank and where it was out would adjust it to level. This reduced the cumulative error or "tower of pisa" effect. A 1/16" adjustment will not be seen but an 18/16" error will make the wall look like it is leaning. Eye level references, matched corners and doorways, maintain level as you add rows.
Thank you for your video can you give me any suggestion what kind of cladding are you using?
Thank you:)
It is tongue and groove pine from Lowes.
What do you use for the open edges by the windows?
1x4’s
Looks really good. I am building a cabin in Cloudcroft NM so this is helpful. Thank You!
Do we want to nail these nails like framing nails or the little ones used for base board ?
The little nails for sure
Ive still not taken care of this project 😅. I rewatched i think some glue would be smart not on the grooves but on the studs just a bead.