Very nice. I made my own adapter to do the same on my 3" Maxitrak Aveling & Porter. I t also doubles (?triples?) as a blow down valve or a boiler filler via an hose.
No it is hitting the main crank. I did mention this in the description and I added a spring to force the regulator to stay level which now avoids the problem. I have also let the manufacturers know of this discrepancy too.
I would like to recommend using prolong super lubricants to all the running gear. Its engine treatment that u can find at an auto parts store its specifically formulated to fight against friction heat and wear this lubricant bonds to metal surfaces and does not wash off easily with water it's not a thick oil nor is it a thin oil.
Have you researched to see if it contains extreme pressure additives and friction modifiers that attack to yellow metals? It's all fine and dandy until you see shimmery Bronze (or knowing the Chinese, probably Brass since they probably won't use proper Bearing Bronze) flecs running out with the oil.
@@steamandsmoke97 no it just bonds to metal surfaces creating a protective layer I've had good results with it , we even use the stuff at work as it actually reduces the noise of the machines running because it's such a great lubricant.
@@charleskendall6401 What is actually IN the stuff though? Instead of just believing the "Magic in a bottle" hook, I'd read the MSDS sheet to see what's actually in it before you go recommending it. I use GL-1 140 weight Plain Mineral Oil, it's pretty much what they used for bronze bearings back in the day and if it worked then it'll work now. Obviously you have to use Compounded 600W Steam Cylinder Oil in the Mechanical Lubricator for the Cylinders, but for general bearing lubrication 140 plain mineral works the best. It's clingy, has excellent film strength, and doesn't run away from the bearing.
@@steamandsmoke97 I'd read the ingredients, I know that it's not synthetic it made from petroleum distillates you can do a Google search its prolong engine treatment..
@@steamandsmoke97 I'd read the ingredients, I know that it's not synthetic it made from petroleum distillates you can do a Google search its prolong engine treatment..
Definitely not worth the price they charge. They're made in China, even though Kingscale is in the UK. For 6,995 GBP which is equal to almost $10,000 US Before shipping, I'd expect them to be made in the UK with far more attention to detail when it comes to build quality, having everything ready to run, and not needing any fiddling. So far I've noticed the Valve Timing is off (too much lead at the top end of the stroke and I suspect the valve itself is not properly centered), the Flywheel wobbles slightly (run-out), and as previously mentioned and already corrected the crank web was smacking the regulator's reach rod. Also I noticed the gearing in the governor was kinda crunchy and not smooth when you turned it in the previous video which could be problematic if you ever did wish to belt it up to the crankshaft. Additionally, again coming down to attention to detail, the pressure gauge is free to waggle about and vibrate on the syphon tube while the engine is running which just looks sloppy and can lead to damaging the gauge/knocking it out of calibration. You would think for the money you're spending they'd have a nice little flange for it to be bolted to the backing plate to hold it still and it would look much nicer and clean. Also there could be more notches in the reverser quadrant, and oil cups for the crosshead trunk guide (nothing at all) and eccentrics (Just oil holes). So in my opinion the Value for Money is just plain not there. Is it nice? It's... alright, but even with the corrected issues I think 4,995 GBP/$7,000USD would be far more within reason considering the source (being made of the best Chinesium). Rating this engine on a scale of 1 to 10 it gets 6.5 to 7 from me.
@@charleskendall6401 No I wouldn't waste my hard earned money on them. Resale value for these after they've been fired will be shite anyway. I bought a 4" Scale Burrell from Steam Traction World. Much higher quality and value for money.
She runs well! They did a good job on this engine which makes a change for a company model as they often take short cuts!
Like maxitrak models?? No hand pump, no feed water pump no injector on there t engines
@@charleskendall6401 yes it's funny you mention that as have heard bad things about their locos etc
🤣😂😆
Matt Seymour what bad things have you heard about that particular company models ? I have a couple Inc s 3/4"Allchin with no problems 🤔🙂
@@TDMalcolmSorry for the late reply but I think just general silly mistakes which can easily be improved.
It seems you have some better built ones.
Lovely engine you have there
Very nice. I made my own adapter to do the same on my 3" Maxitrak Aveling & Porter. I t also doubles (?triples?) as a blow down valve or a boiler filler via an hose.
Great idea - thx for the info!
Can you get a trailer for these? So you can sit behind them at shows etc?
Is the regulator rod hitting the big end oil pot.
No it is hitting the main crank. I did mention this in the description and I added a spring to force the regulator to stay level which now avoids the problem. I have also let the manufacturers know of this discrepancy too.
I would like to recommend using prolong super lubricants to all the running gear. Its engine treatment that u can find at an auto parts store its specifically formulated to fight against friction heat and wear this lubricant bonds to metal surfaces and does not wash off easily with water it's not a thick oil nor is it a thin oil.
Have you researched to see if it contains extreme pressure additives and friction modifiers that attack to yellow metals? It's all fine and dandy until you see shimmery Bronze (or knowing the Chinese, probably Brass since they probably won't use proper Bearing Bronze) flecs running out with the oil.
@@steamandsmoke97 no it just bonds to metal surfaces creating a protective layer I've had good results with it , we even use the stuff at work as it actually reduces the noise of the machines running because it's such a great lubricant.
@@charleskendall6401 What is actually IN the stuff though? Instead of just believing the "Magic in a bottle" hook, I'd read the MSDS sheet to see what's actually in it before you go recommending it. I use GL-1 140 weight Plain Mineral Oil, it's pretty much what they used for bronze bearings back in the day and if it worked then it'll work now. Obviously you have to use Compounded 600W Steam Cylinder Oil in the Mechanical Lubricator for the Cylinders, but for general bearing lubrication 140 plain mineral works the best. It's clingy, has excellent film strength, and doesn't run away from the bearing.
@@steamandsmoke97 I'd read the ingredients, I know that it's not synthetic it made from petroleum distillates you can do a Google search its prolong engine treatment..
@@steamandsmoke97 I'd read the ingredients, I know that it's not synthetic it made from petroleum distillates you can do a Google search its prolong engine treatment..
We're it is available . Will you please tell me bro
Every model engineer in the country cringing right now.
I love it can you send me a link of the maker please
Nice.
For the price you pay, it better start ..
that timing is way off
Show us the fire up please
I certainly will do when things warn up - as this will be the first coal-fired model that I will have fired, so am being a little cautious right now.
@@modelsounds2509 o ok
@@modelsounds2509 happy new year
Definitely not worth the price they charge. They're made in China, even though Kingscale is in the UK. For 6,995 GBP which is equal to almost $10,000 US Before shipping, I'd expect them to be made in the UK with far more attention to detail when it comes to build quality, having everything ready to run, and not needing any fiddling. So far I've noticed the Valve Timing is off (too much lead at the top end of the stroke and I suspect the valve itself is not properly centered), the Flywheel wobbles slightly (run-out), and as previously mentioned and already corrected the crank web was smacking the regulator's reach rod. Also I noticed the gearing in the governor was kinda crunchy and not smooth when you turned it in the previous video which could be problematic if you ever did wish to belt it up to the crankshaft. Additionally, again coming down to attention to detail, the pressure gauge is free to waggle about and vibrate on the syphon tube while the engine is running which just looks sloppy and can lead to damaging the gauge/knocking it out of calibration. You would think for the money you're spending they'd have a nice little flange for it to be bolted to the backing plate to hold it still and it would look much nicer and clean. Also there could be more notches in the reverser quadrant, and oil cups for the crosshead trunk guide (nothing at all) and eccentrics (Just oil holes). So in my opinion the Value for Money is just plain not there. Is it nice? It's... alright, but even with the corrected issues I think 4,995 GBP/$7,000USD would be far more within reason considering the source (being made of the best Chinesium). Rating this engine on a scale of 1 to 10 it gets 6.5 to 7 from me.
I paid about 7500 and its awesome!!
@@charleskendall6401 Because you have lower standards and money to burn. 🤣
@@steamandsmoke97 whatever
@@steamandsmoke97 so you have higher standards and more money to burn , so what did you buy one of these?
@@charleskendall6401 No I wouldn't waste my hard earned money on them. Resale value for these after they've been fired will be shite anyway. I bought a 4" Scale Burrell from Steam Traction World. Much higher quality and value for money.
A very disappointing model, looks good.