I can relate so much! I’ve had some minor problems with one of my pulleys, but nothing too serious and it never kept me from climbing because I didn’t feel any pain whilst doing it. I still went to see a doctor one time and I had similar experiences to yours. Nobody really knew anything about climbing injuries, sometimes I even felt like they weren’t taking me seriously at all, because according to ultrasounds etc there was nothing wrong (swelling, inflammation etc.). It’s really frustrating. But the worst injury yet happened about 5 weeks ago when I hurt my knee heel hooking. It really scares me because even after all those weeks I still can’t see any significant progress and all the scans showed nothing structurally wrong (which is good, I guess, but the insecurity it killing me). Your story gives me a lot of hope! Looking at it rationally I know it’s gonna be fine, but I can’t help wondering what if it’s never gonna be the same again😪🙈 stupid brain, always overthinking…. Anyways, thanks for sharing and I love that you’re posting again 👌🏼
Appreciate you sharing your story!! Glad we can all relate to the frustration together lol. It's definitely a niche sport and the sports medicine is taking time to get up to speed. Minor pulley injuries I definitely feel will benefit from the emil program. It certainly helped me and I'm sure this major injury was almost entirely due to the increase in intensity and volume in a short period of time. Hopefully your knee feels better soon. I've hurt my hip doing a really intense heel hook before and I remember that taking a several weeks to feel better. I think this is all just part of the sport lol. Always something going on. Thanks for watching!
Same thing happened to me. I really pushed myself in May-June, broke the v8 barrier and was pushing myself and slacked on finger health training. Im at v7-8, but exact same move, holding undercling crimp and my A4 popped! im 5 weeks in now, doing lots of weighted bloc crimps (used to do 100lbs, now im down to 45). I would suggest doing that since it sets you up in a controlled environment and you can start at literally 10-15lbs if you want! Full ROM still hurts at the last 10% of movement for me, but we'll take it nice and slow!
Sorry to hear that this happened, I’m glad you almost have full range of motion again. 3 months after this video, how are your fingers feeling? Are you still having the ‘ghost’ pains around the finger? Also are your tendons feeling any better? is a pulley injury permanent, is it permanently 1.5 mm detached from the bone? Are you back to the grade you used to climb pre-injury. Hope your recovery continues to improve. Great video
Hey man! Yeah so its been almost 6 months to the day now. Still doesn't feel amazing, had a follow up ultrasound that will come out in another video, but the bone to tendon distance is still pretty large and it was def a full rupture. The finger is not as strong as it once was but somehow I am climbing at almost the same level as before - with the exception of pure crimp strength type climbs. My left hand open crimp is about as strong as before, but half and full crimp are still painful. Surprisingly, I'm stronger than ever on Kilterboard which I think is a great measuring stick. Def check out some of the recent climbing session videos! And look out for the doctor follow up video coming out in the near future. Appreciate the comment!
I’ll definitely check out some of your recent videos. I’m glad to hear that you’ve pretty much recovered in terms of grade and Kilter Board strength. Sorry to hear about the full rupture; crimps suck anyway. I’ll keep an eye out for your next doctor follow-up video. Thanks for the reply! Wishing you a speedy recovery!
@@chillalex7 appreciate the support man!! And yeah, just part of the sport I think. Got a little unlucky but changed my approach to training and climbing for the better hopefully 🙏
so sorry to hear that! it's definitely rough, both physically and mentally. But if it helps, I am climbing close to the same level as I was prior to the injury. Try to do the right things for your rehab and have faith that you'll bounce back!
@@nickkealiiclimbs I've been pushing my luck lately going more and more often. I think consistently taking Creatine just gave me this energy where I jumped from like a v3 climber to v4 (gym grades lol) in like 2 weeks. But also I'm heavy, like 250lbs and it's NOT muscle lol.
@@Gadgetmawombo haha gotcha. Yeah creatine def makes a big difference. Lets you keep trying harder for longer sessions. But if you feel like you’re going too hard and not recovering enough use this as a reminder. Take a deload week every few weeks. Shorter sessions, lower intensity. Give the body breaks when it needs it
i wish all of my Docs explains as clear as you did here! Thank You!
@@ioidt oh I’m sorry to hear that! But totally relate. Hope your injury wasn’t too bad and your recovery goes well 🙏
I can relate so much! I’ve had some minor problems with one of my pulleys, but nothing too serious and it never kept me from climbing because I didn’t feel any pain whilst doing it. I still went to see a doctor one time and I had similar experiences to yours. Nobody really knew anything about climbing injuries, sometimes I even felt like they weren’t taking me seriously at all, because according to ultrasounds etc there was nothing wrong (swelling, inflammation etc.). It’s really frustrating. But the worst injury yet happened about 5 weeks ago when I hurt my knee heel hooking. It really scares me because even after all those weeks I still can’t see any significant progress and all the scans showed nothing structurally wrong (which is good, I guess, but the insecurity it killing me). Your story gives me a lot of hope! Looking at it rationally I know it’s gonna be fine, but I can’t help wondering what if it’s never gonna be the same again😪🙈 stupid brain, always overthinking….
Anyways, thanks for sharing and I love that you’re posting again 👌🏼
Appreciate you sharing your story!! Glad we can all relate to the frustration together lol. It's definitely a niche sport and the sports medicine is taking time to get up to speed. Minor pulley injuries I definitely feel will benefit from the emil program. It certainly helped me and I'm sure this major injury was almost entirely due to the increase in intensity and volume in a short period of time. Hopefully your knee feels better soon. I've hurt my hip doing a really intense heel hook before and I remember that taking a several weeks to feel better. I think this is all just part of the sport lol. Always something going on. Thanks for watching!
Haven't watched yet but I'm gonna! I did the same thing to two fingers about 6 weeks ago. One is better. One is still struggling
@@EdwardClarkIII sorry to hear! Hopefully this video helps in some way 🙏
Pulley pal and therapy putty look neat for next time. I wish I'd taken mine a little more seriously as you did. Thanks.
Great video dude, very comprehensive and can tell you put time into it. Missed seeing your videos recently but glad you healed up!
Thank you for the kind words! Yeah hoping to start uploading more regularly again. Just need the body to cooperate 😂
Thanks.Great video🤘
@@Peter-swe appreciate the comment! Hopefully not too relevant to any injuries for you 🙏
Same thing happened to me. I really pushed myself in May-June, broke the v8 barrier and was pushing myself and slacked on finger health training. Im at v7-8, but exact same move, holding undercling crimp and my A4 popped! im 5 weeks in now, doing lots of weighted bloc crimps (used to do 100lbs, now im down to 45). I would suggest doing that since it sets you up in a controlled environment and you can start at literally 10-15lbs if you want! Full ROM still hurts at the last 10% of movement for me, but we'll take it nice and slow!
Sorry to hear that, thanks for sharing your story and advice!!
Sorry to hear that this happened, I’m glad you almost have full range of motion again. 3 months after this video, how are your fingers feeling? Are you still having the ‘ghost’ pains around the finger? Also are your tendons feeling any better? is a pulley injury permanent, is it permanently 1.5 mm detached from the bone? Are you back to the grade you used to climb pre-injury. Hope your recovery continues to improve. Great video
Hey man! Yeah so its been almost 6 months to the day now. Still doesn't feel amazing, had a follow up ultrasound that will come out in another video, but the bone to tendon distance is still pretty large and it was def a full rupture. The finger is not as strong as it once was but somehow I am climbing at almost the same level as before - with the exception of pure crimp strength type climbs. My left hand open crimp is about as strong as before, but half and full crimp are still painful. Surprisingly, I'm stronger than ever on Kilterboard which I think is a great measuring stick. Def check out some of the recent climbing session videos! And look out for the doctor follow up video coming out in the near future. Appreciate the comment!
I’ll definitely check out some of your recent videos. I’m glad to hear that you’ve pretty much recovered in terms of grade and Kilter Board strength. Sorry to hear about the full rupture; crimps suck anyway. I’ll keep an eye out for your next doctor follow-up video. Thanks for the reply! Wishing you a speedy recovery!
@@chillalex7 appreciate the support man!! And yeah, just part of the sport I think. Got a little unlucky but changed my approach to training and climbing for the better hopefully 🙏
Exact same thing just happened to me tonight. In a splint now and pretty worried not gunna lie lol
so sorry to hear that! it's definitely rough, both physically and mentally. But if it helps, I am climbing close to the same level as I was prior to the injury. Try to do the right things for your rehab and have faith that you'll bounce back!
👍
lol thanks
I'm so scared of that happening to me.
It always kind of felt like an inevitability. But I just stopped being cautious. Never climbing hard back to back days again lol
@@nickkealiiclimbs I've been pushing my luck lately going more and more often. I think consistently taking Creatine just gave me this energy where I jumped from like a v3 climber to v4 (gym grades lol) in like 2 weeks. But also I'm heavy, like 250lbs and it's NOT muscle lol.
@@Gadgetmawombo haha gotcha. Yeah creatine def makes a big difference. Lets you keep trying harder for longer sessions. But if you feel like you’re going too hard and not recovering enough use this as a reminder. Take a deload week every few weeks. Shorter sessions, lower intensity. Give the body breaks when it needs it
Do you whiten your teeth?
I'm not a player, I just brush a lot