I just needed a diagram of how everything is plugged up. Hopefully I can plug everything up and get ready to bar my car soon. You have made things a lot more simpler. Thank you! You have yourself a new subscriber!
Came here from my auto class to actually understand how it works. THEN you can go learn the more intricate systems and THEN learn how to diagnose them.
Very clear explanation! Now I just need to know how to diagnose it so to avoid being a parts replacer. I don’t mind working on my vehicle if I can fix it right the first time.
The chamber purge valve on my Suzuki Swift got broken and I couldn't find a new/used one to install. The mechanics to whom I took it to all thought the purge valve was some "air component" and one of them replaced it with a small air filter, wich I know is wrong, but I'm keeping it on because otherwise the fumes make the car smell of gasoline. Is it possible to just delete the purge valve and have a direct connection to the charcoal canister?
Dear, if you disconnect the evaporation hose from the antique, will the pcv valve still work normally? Or does it depend on the air suction from the antiques? My greetings
I have an 89 Jeep YJ with an inline 6, 258 engine. I switched over to electronic ignition and ditched the PCM. Many of the sensors/valves had already been removed or disabled before I got the Jeep. My question is can I just have to small hose from manifold vac going straight to the charcoal canister and a line back to the carb without and metering? And if not, can I just yank the line back to the carb from the canister and leave a vacuum pull through the canister to vent the gas tank? I’ve watched your PVC video as well and think I have a question about that as well, same situation, not PCM control, but I don’t think that one needs one. The 258 engine had all sorts of convoluted hoses, one way valves, and what not on it.
I understand this system now. Now I know the advice is not to trickle fill the tank as gas can flow directly into the charcoal canister which could cause it to malfunction. I get this…however, my big question is: IF I’m on a long road trip and know I have at least 100-200 klms left to go immediately after paying for fuel, in this circumstance, is it ok to trickle fill to the fuel neck if normally I would only fill to the first click (for shorter round town trips)? I figure if I straight after filling to the brim do at least 100 klms then the charcoal canister (if not defective) will correct itself.
Won't that turn on the check engine light because when the car pulls a vacuum on the gas tank to check for a leak, it won't be able to pull a vacuum (since you capped the line) so it will assume there a leak
Thanks a lot for the information. Since what year were these systems implemented on cars? Do older cars from the classical era have to get these installed if they are used as regular transportation? My elderly 1973 Catalina wants to know. Maybe it already has it. Thank you.
Hi. I have a 1998 3.3L Nissan Pathfinder. 175,000 miles. Great condition. Stock. My tank gets alarmingly pressurized when driven a couple hundred miles. I don't have any codes. My Nissan gas cap visually inspects clean and good. Does not leak. I even disconnected all hoses on the EVAP system and cracked the gas cap. No codes were made either. How can that be? I drove it dozens of miles to test. To see if the missing stopped or codes would appear. No codes, except random misfire. Every now and then, but the motor is obviously missing mildly to badly all the time. It gets worse for a while when I refuel. For a few dozen miles. When this system started doing this, I started getting a random misfire code at the same time. These may be unrelated. Not sure. I have verified purge valve works, hoses are clear now. One was dirty about 2" clogged at the canister for the purge line. It looked like charcoal dust. All other hoses clear. Any ideas? I was going to remove the plug from the cannister ambient vent valve and see what that did. It should toss a code right? And make the valve open, from my understanding? I don't want the tank to pressurize like that again. It will spew and hiss for about 6 minutes when cap is removed. I've never seen a vehicle do it this badly before. Thanks!
Tell me why a complex emission and fuel system that's primarily located under the vehicle is construction from substandard materials that's guaranteed to prematurely fail? This is a similar intentional design flaw with exhaust system in the 60's and earlier, until they were made from SST.
wonder if you would be interested in a re visit on this .. "what happens when fuel tank is over filled" as in when anyone tries to put that 1 more $1 in .. i know i have had to fix that ..
@@michaeljvan6117 the vented tanks to the atmosphere were no longer allowed by the epa sometime in the late sixties into the very early seventies, my question was pertaining to the systems before computer controlled emissions and after the vented to the air systems.
There was no purge valve, it was only charcoal canister. The vapours flow from the charcoal canister were almost uniform. The carburetor was tunned accordingly.
I changed the vent valve the charcoal canister and the fuel cap and I still get the code p0455 I’m sick and tired of spending money on stuff that’s not the problem I spent over $300
@@dustinbergeron7508 it’s the p0455 is “major leak detected” so probably from the fuel tank, you said you changed the valve but look if there is any hole in the canister. It’s plastic so it can be damaged easily.
@@dustinbergeron7508 shiieet, well, last thing to do is to clear the code and hope for it to never show again. I had some problems with my sister’s Peugeot 208 with the adblue. The light turned on and I turned if off, then it came back and disappeared by it self. At that point, just drive with it if you can without any risk.
No, "Spark Knock" is a result of multiple flame-fronts colliding inside the combustion chamber. This would be caused by a second ignition source in the cylinder igniting the mixture in addition to the spark plug.
@@NirvanaBoy300 What problem are you having and what kind of vehicle do you have? If you believe you're having Spark Knock, spark plugs are not usually the issue because true spark knock will happen when the plugs fire, but so does another ignition source in the chamber, causing the 2 opposing flame fronts to collide during combustion. Now, you can have spark knock, detonation or pre-ignition, and you kind of get to a point where these issues can overlap or be confused for one another. If your engine has a bunch of carbon deposits and buildup in the cylinders, they can act to basically increase the compression ratio of the cylinder, causing the pressure and temperature to rise above the fuel's ability to resist combustion just from heat alone (Octane Rating). That would be detonation or pre-ignition. That same carbon buildup can begin to heat up and the build up of excess heat on those points can reach a point that they will act as a secondary ignition source, creating that opposing flame-front that can cause spark knock.
@@NirvanaBoy300 Before you do replace anything, just fill up your tank with premium fuel and drive for a bit. See if it changes. If you're not using 91 octane, you really need to be. If you don't have 91, you might skate by with 87.
Kyle - don't see that you comment much - hoping for some help. My Honda Fit is pulling a 2422 code - evap vent valve stuck closed. It's not - and it functions properly (when charged, closes and holds vacuum) - the ECM is delivering 12v to the valve - anticipate the ECM uses the ground to engage/disengage the valve. With ECM delivering 12v and a direct connect of the valve to the battery ground, the valve closes - so the valve is fully functional. Yet the code... The Fit's fuel tank has ALWAYS been a difficult full-fill - 10 gallons and on a full tank fill, the pressure shuts off the gas pump (back-pressure) at like 7-7.5 gallons. (that's about 100-120 miles of road travel). I know the valve is functioning - still pulls the 2422 code. Ideas?
Charcoal Canister is probably restricted. Seen a number of them full of water. That code will set if there is any restriction in the system, check the lines and the vent, but your issue is likely the Canister.
You are extremely well spoken. It's very nice to see. A natural teacher
I just needed a diagram of how everything is plugged up. Hopefully I can plug everything up and get ready to bar my car soon. You have made things a lot more simpler. Thank you! You have yourself a new subscriber!
Heck yeah. Explained it better than the other two guys I saw so far. Nice.
I'm learning more on UA-cam than my automotive class I'm currently attending. 😂😂💯
Larry Bob
Can i have your email address pls
Really wanna get in touch with you.
Came here from my auto class to actually understand how it works. THEN you can go learn the more intricate systems and THEN learn how to diagnose them.
Same!!!😂
Very good, clear and thorough explanation.
thank you very much for taking time to shoot this tutorial. Much love!
Well explained. I just had the evap purge solenoid replaced on my Chevy, just here to get some understanding of exactly what it is and what it does.
Simple and strait forward. Thanks brother! ❤
Thank you . This is what I was looking for. 3hrs later when I asked Google. Again thanks
Very clear explanation! Now I just need to know how to diagnose it so to avoid being a parts replacer. I don’t mind working on my vehicle if I can fix it right the first time.
It is well explained ! I now have a better understanding of the EVAP system. Thank you. :)
You’re awesome dude. Thank you 💪🏽
Super straight forward thank you for this
diagnosis video would be awesome right about now.
The chamber purge valve on my Suzuki Swift got broken and I couldn't find a new/used one to install. The mechanics to whom I took it to all thought the purge valve was some "air component" and one of them replaced it with a small air filter, wich I know is wrong, but I'm keeping it on because otherwise the fumes make the car smell of gasoline.
Is it possible to just delete the purge valve and have a direct connection to the charcoal canister?
what if we remove the charcoal canister and purge valve directly connected with fuel tank???
thank you for teaching, your explanation is good.
Thank you! I'm glad you liked the video
Dear, if you disconnect the evaporation hose from the antique, will the pcv valve still work normally? Or does it depend on the air suction from the antiques? My greetings
I have an 89 Jeep YJ with an inline 6, 258 engine. I switched over to electronic ignition and ditched the PCM. Many of the sensors/valves had already been removed or disabled before I got the Jeep. My question is can I just have to small hose from manifold vac going straight to the charcoal canister and a line back to the carb without and metering? And if not, can I just yank the line back to the carb from the canister and leave a vacuum pull through the canister to vent the gas tank? I’ve watched your PVC video as well and think I have a question about that as well, same situation, not PCM control, but I don’t think that one needs one. The 258 engine had all sorts of convoluted hoses, one way valves, and what not on it.
Did you ever do the followup videos about diagnosing EVAP system issues? I haven't been able to find them on your channel.
Same
This video is perfect, thankyou
I have an issue with a dodge how can I know what to replace
Great explanation Thanks!
I understand this system now.
Now I know the advice is not to trickle fill the tank as gas can flow directly into the charcoal canister which could cause it to malfunction.
I get this…however, my big question is:
IF I’m on a long road trip and know I have at least 100-200 klms left to go immediately after paying for fuel, in this circumstance, is it ok to trickle fill to the fuel neck if normally I would only fill to the first click (for shorter round town trips)?
I figure if I straight after filling to the brim do at least 100 klms then the charcoal canister (if not defective) will correct itself.
no
Can you post a link to the video on how to diagnose EVAP system problems? Currently trying to figure out are 2008 f250 5.4 L
Very informative thank you!!
very educative,thank you
How can I asset up an EVAP system on a carburetor car?
Just unplug the line from your intake and cap the hole in your intake. Leave the evaporator line vented to atmosphere.
Won't that turn on the check engine light because when the car pulls a vacuum on the gas tank to check for a leak, it won't be able to pull a vacuum (since you capped the line) so it will assume there a leak
Thanks a lot for the information. Since what year were these systems implemented on cars? Do older cars from the classical era have to get these installed if they are used as regular transportation? My elderly 1973 Catalina wants to know. Maybe it already has it. Thank you.
Great video, Thank you.
Hi. I have a 1998 3.3L Nissan Pathfinder. 175,000 miles. Great condition. Stock. My tank gets alarmingly pressurized when driven a couple hundred miles. I don't have any codes. My Nissan gas cap visually inspects clean and good. Does not leak.
I even disconnected all hoses on the EVAP system and cracked the gas cap. No codes were made either. How can that be? I drove it dozens of miles to test. To see if the missing stopped or codes would appear. No codes, except random misfire. Every now and then, but the motor is obviously missing mildly to badly all the time. It gets worse for a while when I refuel. For a few dozen miles.
When this system started doing this, I started getting a random misfire code at the same time. These may be unrelated. Not sure.
I have verified purge valve works, hoses are clear now. One was dirty about 2" clogged at the canister for the purge line. It looked like charcoal dust. All other hoses clear.
Any ideas? I was going to remove the plug from the cannister ambient vent valve and see what that did. It should toss a code right? And make the valve open, from my understanding? I don't want the tank to pressurize like that again. It will spew and hiss for about 6 minutes when cap is removed. I've never seen a vehicle do it this badly before.
Thanks!
That's brilliant. Thanks
nice video quick and informative
Tell me why a complex emission and fuel system that's primarily located under the vehicle is construction from substandard materials that's guaranteed to prematurely fail? This is a similar intentional design flaw with exhaust system in the 60's and earlier, until they were made from SST.
Great video bud!
Thank you !
wonder if you would be interested in a re visit on this .. "what happens when fuel tank is over filled" as in when anyone tries to put that 1 more $1 in .. i know i have had to fix that ..
Nice video
How did pre-computer controlled(pre-1980's) vehicles control evap systems without the use of a pcm?
They didn't have evap systems, just a vented tank
@@michaeljvan6117 the vented tanks to the atmosphere were no longer allowed by the epa sometime in the late sixties into the very early seventies, my question was pertaining to the systems before computer controlled emissions and after the vented to the air systems.
There was no purge valve, it was only charcoal canister. The vapours flow from the charcoal canister were almost uniform. The carburetor was tunned accordingly.
Vacuum operated valve
I changed the vent valve the charcoal canister and the fuel cap and I still get the code p0455 I’m sick and tired of spending money on stuff that’s not the problem I spent over $300
Maybe the fuel cap is not closed proprely or there is a hole in the pipe.
@@ilirhalili4712 nope no hole and cap is properly on and closed tight
@@dustinbergeron7508 it’s the p0455 is “major leak detected” so probably from the fuel tank, you said you changed the valve but look if there is any hole in the canister. It’s plastic so it can be damaged easily.
@@ilirhalili4712 changed the purge valve, canister, pressure sensor, fuel cap, filler neck, and the vent valve
@@dustinbergeron7508 shiieet, well, last thing to do is to clear the code and hope for it to never show again. I had some problems with my sister’s Peugeot 208 with the adblue. The light turned on and I turned if off, then it came back and disappeared by it self. At that point, just drive with it if you can without any risk.
Would a bad charcoal canister cause spark knock?
No, "Spark Knock" is a result of multiple flame-fronts colliding inside the combustion chamber. This would be caused by a second ignition source in the cylinder igniting the mixture in addition to the spark plug.
DIY Auto Homeschool alright thanks I’m gonna replace all my spark plugs and see if it makes a difference. Love the videos man!
@@NirvanaBoy300 What problem are you having and what kind of vehicle do you have? If you believe you're having Spark Knock, spark plugs are not usually the issue because true spark knock will happen when the plugs fire, but so does another ignition source in the chamber, causing the 2 opposing flame fronts to collide during combustion.
Now, you can have spark knock, detonation or pre-ignition, and you kind of get to a point where these issues can overlap or be confused for one another. If your engine has a bunch of carbon deposits and buildup in the cylinders, they can act to basically increase the compression ratio of the cylinder, causing the pressure and temperature to rise above the fuel's ability to resist combustion just from heat alone (Octane Rating). That would be detonation or pre-ignition. That same carbon buildup can begin to heat up and the build up of excess heat on those points can reach a point that they will act as a secondary ignition source, creating that opposing flame-front that can cause spark knock.
DIY Auto Homeschool I drive a 2001 Lexus ES300 with 165k miles. I hear a rattling type noise under load. What are some options I have to fix this?
@@NirvanaBoy300 Before you do replace anything, just fill up your tank with premium fuel and drive for a bit. See if it changes. If you're not using 91 octane, you really need to be. If you don't have 91, you might skate by with 87.
Another thing to cut out along with the egr pcv dpf and cat
You got think like the vehicle does
so basically.....they jus added a second gas tank for fumes ......and with the addition of the vent valve on the canister,isnt that a bit redundant?
The vent is only open when the engine is drawing from the canister
2:04
I expected more.
So basically your engine gets ruined two different ways. The PCV valve and the evap system!! Awesome!! I'm deleting all of it tomorrow!!
How you deleting everything given me an idea
Home school pro
Kyle - don't see that you comment much - hoping for some help. My Honda Fit is pulling a 2422 code - evap vent valve stuck closed. It's not - and it functions properly (when charged, closes and holds vacuum) - the ECM is delivering 12v to the valve - anticipate the ECM uses the ground to engage/disengage the valve. With ECM delivering 12v and a direct connect of the valve to the battery ground, the valve closes - so the valve is fully functional. Yet the code... The Fit's fuel tank has ALWAYS been a difficult full-fill - 10 gallons and on a full tank fill, the pressure shuts off the gas pump (back-pressure) at like 7-7.5 gallons. (that's about 100-120 miles of road travel). I know the valve is functioning - still pulls the 2422 code. Ideas?
Charcoal Canister is probably restricted. Seen a number of them full of water. That code will set if there is any restriction in the system, check the lines and the vent, but your issue is likely the Canister.