Two additional tips one for batterylife and one for safety. For batterylife if your bike came with a so called rapid charger, but your battery and motor manufacturer makes a non rapid charger get the slower charger and it will prolong your battery life (shimano makes a 2A and a 4A charger). For safety if you happen to have a garage charge your bike in your garage or car port. Most building codes require fire safety provisions for garage and carports to be built into the structure to stand engine fires so if you charge in your garage especially unsupervised it is the safest place to do so.
Very true. However I don't think most of these chargers draw much current. My Fazua charger draws 145w or 1.2 amps. About the same as a couple (incandescent) lamps. But you raise a very good point about extension cords, timers, etc...
One tip that is implicit in your routine is to give the battery chemistry time to settle before charging - even 30 minutes makes a difference. I also charge just under 100% wherever I can (it’s a game now 😊). My rides use 25-35% and I often nearly top them off just to avoid range anxiety or to be setup for a bonus ride💪 After 2.5yrs I’m at 120 full cycle charges on 700w Specialized turbo Levo and battery continues to read 100% health with Ride app (potentially less as apparently bike/app rounds up, shop app might report exact health %).
Good advice not to charge to 100% if one never uses 100% anyway. A caveat with the 'battery health' data though is I'm hearing it's not very relevant or insightful. I have a 700wh Levo too and charge to 100% immediately after riding. My battery health shows 100% as well using the Specialize app.
An important thing in my opinion is to always let the battery rest for at least 15 minutes before recharging it, especially if it is hot and the battery has been used intensively. This applies to most domestic batteries anyway ;)
I generally charge my eMTB battery just before the ride to 100%. After the ride it remains generally to 10-40% with state of charge for few days or weeks till next ride. I also keep 20-25% state of charge over the winter for 3 months. I rarely discharge the battery to 0% on a ride. This happened 4 or 5 times in 2 years of use. Now the battery have 45 charging cycles and I do not feel a drop of autonomy. I store my bike with battery installed in a shady place on the balcony where the temperature is maxim 40 C degrees in the midday of summer and minimum 10 C degrees in winter.
I always take the battery out of my bike to charge it. I live in a condo on the 16th floor and charge the battery close to the patio door. I also always charge it when I am awake. This bike is my commuter and charge it every two days. It is a Envo which is UL certified both bike and battery. Even if certified by every certification worldwide, I still will not trust it being left on its own.
Hi francis, I wanted to share my e-bike charging set up with you first of all I live in a condo and I have a concrete patio outside my condo. So that's why I have my charging box it's a metal box that is lined with three layers of 1000 degree temperature insulation. This insulation is typically used on wood stove chimney liners that are installed in homes so I use some of it to line the lid all four sides in the bottom and the box is large enough to house three batteries. For storage and charging one at a time hooked up to a timer that I can preset to turn off at the end of the charging.. because of where I live it can get down below freezing in the winter I have a table lamp inside the charging box that's also on a timer that will come on and off to keep the temperature at a convenient safe 50 60° I do use the charger that is appropriate for the battery that I am charging for instance I have a 20 amp 48 volt battery, and I will charge it for about 9 hours on a 2 amp charger be able to attain a full charge. I have over 5,000 MI my EB sence it was brand new and I have never had any charging or battery issues . Where people go wrong is when they try to modify or overcharge lithium ion battery it's important to never charged it when you are not around I usually like to read something or watch a movie while the battery is charging during the day or in the evening. My eBay has a the fan bbs02 mid Drive motor with a u p p 20 amp 48 volt battery.
Great video. I would suggest always make sure you hear the fan turn on in your battery charger. Mine came disconnected and it overheated. I connected it 2 years ago and it still works well. I believe many good batteries come with cheap chargers
I fulltime RV in my motorhome and I charge and store my battery in the oven...Just don't forget about your battery being in there and light the oven😂 but I feel safe storing in it in the oven.
It would be nice if manufacturers build smarter chargers with a bluetooth connection that would allow us to set a countdown timer or max. % of charge for automatic cutoff. Great video by the way. Loved tip no. 1 ;)
I just purchased a smart plug for $10. Problem solved. Just set it to turn off a little bit before the typical full charge depending on a predetermined start percentage.
If you have a charger where you can set the charge voltage (such as the Grin Satiator), you can set the charge voltage to 80% of max rather than the default 100%.
That’s why our chargers are designed with BMS to manage battery safety, such as automatic shutdown when fully charged, and various short-circuit protections to maintain battery safety.
I live in the rocky mountains of Colorado. My storage shed gets way below freezing at night. I way too many e-bikes to store inside my small house. So I came up with a solution that work's pretty good. I wrap the downtube with powered dog beds (never fold the dog bed when heated) and put Thinsulate insulation over that. Worked flawlessly last year. I would say do this at your own risk, as doing it incorrectly could start a fire. But it keeps the battery warm and ready to use in the morning and protects against critical charging problems if the battery gets below freezing. As Francis says, keeping the bike inside is best. Never charge your bike if the battery gets well below freezing. That could destroy the battery for good.
Great share!!! Yes, when the battery is below freezing, the voltage of the battery drops 20-30%. So when the charger charges the battery to the proper voltage, it can overcharge the battery. And when the battery comes back to room temperature and gets its normal voltage back, bad juju can happen.
Just remove the batteries that are removable? Even if not charging indoors? It's best to be kept at room temperature if at all possible, within reason.
Yes, that's the most hassle-free way to do it. It works well and is not an issue. The battery doesn't last as long but we don't hang on to these ebikes over 7 years anyway. :)
How does that work, when most bike manufactures say Don't let Lithium Batteries go below 15%, and Don't charge over 75%. Charging to 100% hurts the long life of Lithium Batteries
Good tips. I’d also suggest being very sure that any extension cords or timers you use are rated for the amount of power your charger draws. Also keep in mind that typical $1.50 household outlets aren’t meant for multiple hours of use at peak current, and they can really heat up. Consider replacing your outlet with an industrial/commercial grade unit.
11. Always charge your batery at work. 12. Never charge the batery when it is atached to the bike. If you do these, you get ZERO risks for fire/explosions at home and you only risk loosing your bateries.
This is extreme paranoia that ruins the experience and quality of life. Burn down your work and make charging 3x as hard. The danger is minuscule with quality bikes
@@EMTBReview Sadly, about a month after I posted this, a colege of mine had his batery catch fire at work. So these things do hapen. Was it a cheaper brand than mine? Yes, still one does not count on things to go dramaticaly bad. Nobody got injured and in 1 hangar we had a shortcirquit that needed fixing, took them a week. This is a rather big company. So for me, this is not extreme paranoia, but something like an ensurance. You pay it for hopefuly never needing it. note: It was not a big fire, the batery + charger + desk were destroyed nothing more. This is not in an ofice building but in a factory.
Put the left crank arm down when charging because it can fall down and hit the charger port of the bike and the cable of the charger and make a bad connection between bike and charger and could provoke a short circuit
No there is not. The % left in the battery can be determined by voltage. Problem is a lot of ebike batteries have different voltage capacities. The other bigger issue is most batteries connectors let you see the live voltage, for safety reasons. The Rosenberger plug for example, used in Specialized ebikes only reveals the power if you put power on an activator lead. That makes it very hard to short-circuit these batteries.
Mine caught fire at my brothers house, his homeowners insurance covered it. The house was a total loss. Since then ive come to know that ebikes are just expensive toys that do not last. A small gas powered Honda is cheaper in the long run.
I got a cheap Chinese ebike as a gift and was so concerned about the safety of the battery (no other markings besides CE) that I turned an old metal PC frame into a case with a carrying handle and I put the battery inside every time I charge it. Maybe I can carry it out of the house more easily if it catches on fire hehe
I usually ride only 5-10 miles at a time. So I only charge @ every 3 or 4 days of riding. Lithium batteries like to be charged fully when they are used down to 25-30% left in them.
It is fairly easy to just use a multi-meter and see if the charger is doing the right thing. The algorithm isn't rocket science or magic. It's basically just current limited until it reaches a target voltage, and then voltage limited until the end of charging, then it shuts off. A kill-a-watt can be used to measure watts, divide by the battery voltage to get amps. And a multi-meter to measure the battery voltage. I think the most common error with incompatible chargers is that the charger over-volts the battery, or doesn't shut-off at the end. Very easy to test if you know the battery specs.
How does that work, when bike manufactures say Don't let Lithium Batteries go below 15%, and Don't charge over 75%. Charging to 100% hurts the long life of Lithium Batteries
I keep my ebike in my living room, and never leave it charging overnight, or unattended. A timer in my phone reminds me to unplug the charger at about 80-90%, since I've never come close to using the whole charge in a simple ride.
Anybody with a Rocky mountain instinct powerplay? Just picked one up new from a local dealer. Got home. It’s at 38%, plugged it in and charger led never switches to red, just stays green and it’s taken me 3 hours to gain 3% which it’s supposed to charge the whole battery in 3 hours.
if the bike is charged all the way...how long can I drive it?...I do Doordash and would like to get a bike. I drive all day for about 8 hours. Would this last me the 8 hours.? and where can I charge it instead of my home?
The best opton is to get a bike like an Aventon and get an extra battery. Very easy to swap. Each battery should last 4-5 hours with heavy use. This is a very good option: alnk.to/cHM8V5U
@@EMTBReview And to add on to this - Aventon especially as they utilize torque sensors in their bikes thereby giving the rider more control over battery consumption and more efficient power delivery which means more range.
I've had no trouble with AliExpress chargers, they shut off at a lower voltage than supplied charger 41.3V AE charger 41.9V supplied charger, The AE charger is fan cooled, the supplied is like laptop charger
TDR batteries from Aussie eBay are fine, the one thing I don't like is the discharge cutoff, meaning no power at all to the bike electrics, no lights or speedo, the controller in the bike does the job on low voltage protection, cutting off the motor and leaving other electrics active
Be careful with safety labels. There's $ involved! If you don't understand what I'm saying, it's best that you do your thorough research on the safety label's background.
These high end companies usually partner with a bike manufactuer so they can offer their branded bikes and sell it at their dealerships. This is their line shop.porsche.com/us/en-US/c/e-bikes and they partnered with Rotwild.
I have to drive 6 hours to do any good riding. I've got an overland rig that have 320 watts of solar and 600 amps of batteries. I can charge 3 batteries and keep the fridge running.
Ultimately I think there is so much variability in lithium batteries, BMSs, chargers, and e-bike parts and brands, that I don't think buying a brand-name really buys a whole lot of safety. Safer, yes. "Safe" ? I dunno. So many UL listings are fake these days, having a UL symbol doesn't mean a thing any more. Even your comment "the charger must shutdown" should not make a difference... the BMS built into the battery is supposed to protect the battery, is it not doing its job? Sure, the charger must shut-down, but the BMS should also disconnect the battery when it hits its charge target. Also, these lithium polymer chemistries (NMC, NCA) don't seem to have the robustness to deal with the constant physical abuse that bikes take. Just road vibration alone, for example. IMHO, the only thing that really, really improves safety is going with LiFePO4 rather than NMC or NCA lithium chemistries. That means taking a range hit, LiFePO4 batteries aren't as energy dense. But man oh man they are a hundred times safer. You can charge them up to 100% every time, and you don't have to worry about leaving the bike unused with the battery charged to 100% causing any damage (LiFePO4 doesn't, not really). And as an added bonus, the LiFePO4 battery packs can handle thousands of charge cycles. It seems the industry is focused on marketing range, though, and I don't see anywhere near as many LiFePO4 solutions as I do standard lithium solutions. With enough people demanding it, the industry would catch up, just like it did for power stations.
Great comments!!! I also test a lot of Battery power stations and it seems that category has moved to LiFePO4 batteries because they are more fire resistant. Definitely heavier and bigger for the same capacity as Lithium Ion. Soo, I don't think that's going to catch in emtbs, where most of the weight culprit is already in the batteries. Weight and range are the biggest downers in emtbs and any bike that is 5 lbs. heavier without increasing range will lose in consumer demand. But new technologies and chemistries are right around the corner I'm sure.
@@bradsanders6954 Manufacturers fake UL two ways. The first is simply by putting a fake label on... you can lookup the actual UL number to see if it matches the product. The second is more insidious. UL only tests equipment sent to it by the vendor. Vendors often send items with premium parts for UL testing, but the actual volume production run uses lower quality parts, and vendors will make engineering changes without having the designs re-tested. In terms of the risk to their reputations... it is fairly low. There is a reason why you see so many brands available and tend to not recognize the brands even just 6 months later. Its because most of those brands, even the successful ones, get into trouble or lose their reputation, exit stage-left, and then come right back a month later selling the same stuff under a new name. Very few brands actually become successful enough to want to keep their name and actually make the effort to get a real certification. We're not talking about Apple or Microsoft or Johnson-and-Johnson here. They don't play these games. But we are talking about a majority of e-bike parts, batteries, BMSs, chargers, and many other related gadgets. The UL sticker is virtually meaningless, and the "brand" you buy from is more or less nothing more than a reseller.
That's why it's key to buy quality, UL tested stuff, and learn about them. There are many electrical and lithium battery devices in each household these days.
If there are any points you disagree with, please state them clearly and make your case. Otherwise, it sounds like you’re just spreading hate and negativity
Two additional tips one for batterylife and one for safety. For batterylife if your bike came with a so called rapid charger, but your battery and motor manufacturer makes a non rapid charger get the slower charger and it will prolong your battery life (shimano makes a 2A and a 4A charger). For safety if you happen to have a garage charge your bike in your garage or car port. Most building codes require fire safety provisions for garage and carports to be built into the structure to stand engine fires so if you charge in your garage especially unsupervised it is the safest place to do so.
Very good advice! Thank you
Very true. However I don't think most of these chargers draw much current. My Fazua charger draws 145w or 1.2 amps. About the same as a couple (incandescent) lamps. But you raise a very good point about extension cords, timers, etc...
charge my battery 1 amp to 80% in metal box covered with sand bags monitored temp and timer for safety Luna Charger adjustable .
@@vmobile890 Damn! We took care of nukes in the Air force with less safety protocols. Who made your battery? Is a a generic Chinese type?
@@teleguy5699 Lectric XP just over cautious .
One tip that is implicit in your routine is to give the battery chemistry time to settle before charging - even 30 minutes makes a difference. I also charge just under 100% wherever I can (it’s a game now 😊). My rides use 25-35% and I often nearly top them off just to avoid range anxiety or to be setup for a bonus ride💪 After 2.5yrs I’m at 120 full cycle charges on 700w Specialized turbo Levo and battery continues to read 100% health with Ride app (potentially less as apparently bike/app rounds up, shop app might report exact health %).
Good advice not to charge to 100% if one never uses 100% anyway.
A caveat with the 'battery health' data though is I'm hearing it's not very relevant or insightful. I have a 700wh Levo too and charge to 100% immediately after riding. My battery health shows 100% as well using the Specialize app.
An important thing in my opinion is to always let the battery rest for at least 15 minutes before recharging it, especially if it is hot and the battery has been used intensively. This applies to most domestic batteries anyway ;)
I generally charge my eMTB battery just before the ride to 100%. After the ride it remains generally to 10-40% with state of charge for few days or weeks till next ride. I also keep 20-25% state of charge over the winter for 3 months. I rarely discharge the battery to 0% on a ride. This happened 4 or 5 times in 2 years of use. Now the battery have 45 charging cycles and I do not feel a drop of autonomy. I store my bike with battery installed in a shady place on the balcony where the temperature is maxim 40 C degrees in the midday of summer and minimum 10 C degrees in winter.
I always take the battery out of my bike to charge it. I live in a condo on the 16th floor and charge the battery close to the patio door. I also always charge it when I am awake. This bike is my commuter and charge it every two days. It is a Envo which is UL certified both bike and battery. Even if certified by every certification worldwide, I still will not trust it being left on its own.
Hi francis, I wanted to share my e-bike charging set up with you first of all I live in a condo and I have a concrete patio outside my condo. So that's why I have my charging box it's a metal box that is lined with three layers of 1000 degree temperature insulation. This insulation is typically used on wood stove chimney liners that are installed in homes so I use some of it to line the lid all four sides in the bottom and the box is large enough to house three batteries. For storage and charging one at a time hooked up to a timer that I can preset to turn off at the end of the charging.. because of where I live it can get down below freezing in the winter I have a table lamp inside the charging box that's also on a timer that will come on and off to keep the temperature at a convenient safe 50 60° I do use the charger that is appropriate for the battery that I am charging for instance I have a 20 amp 48 volt battery, and I will charge it for about 9 hours on a 2 amp charger be able to attain a full charge. I have over 5,000 MI my EB sence it was brand new and I have never had any charging or battery issues . Where people go wrong is when they try to modify or overcharge lithium ion battery it's important to never charged it when you are not around I usually like to read something or watch a movie while the battery is charging during the day or in the evening. My eBay has a the fan bbs02 mid Drive motor with a u p p 20 amp 48 volt battery.
Great video. I would suggest always make sure you hear the fan turn on in your battery charger. Mine came disconnected and it overheated. I connected it 2 years ago and it still works well. I believe many good batteries come with cheap chargers
Thanks for the info!
Fan? I have a Bosch charger. It's silent and gets very hot. The battery remains cold.
I fulltime RV in my motorhome and I charge and store my battery in the oven...Just don't forget about your battery being in there and light the oven😂 but I feel safe storing in it in the oven.
It would be nice if manufacturers build smarter chargers with a bluetooth connection that would allow us to set a countdown timer or max. % of charge for automatic cutoff. Great video by the way. Loved tip no. 1 ;)
Huh? Chargers and BMS do that already
I just purchased a smart plug for $10. Problem solved. Just set it to turn off a little bit before the typical full charge depending on a predetermined start percentage.
If you have a charger where you can set the charge voltage (such as the Grin Satiator), you can set the charge voltage to 80% of max rather than the default 100%.
@@MarkSpohr I use a Luna charger for my Lectric XP 1amp to 80% that was recommended . Grin very good charger also thanks .
That’s why our chargers are designed with BMS to manage battery safety, such as automatic shutdown when fully charged, and various short-circuit protections to maintain battery safety.
I live in the rocky mountains of Colorado. My storage shed gets way below freezing at night. I way too many e-bikes to store inside my small house. So I came up with a solution that work's pretty good. I wrap the downtube with powered dog beds (never fold the dog bed when heated) and put Thinsulate insulation over that. Worked flawlessly last year.
I would say do this at your own risk, as doing it incorrectly could start a fire. But it keeps the battery warm and ready to use in the morning and protects against critical charging problems if the battery gets below freezing.
As Francis says, keeping the bike inside is best. Never charge your bike if the battery gets well below freezing. That could destroy the battery for good.
Great share!!! Yes, when the battery is below freezing, the voltage of the battery drops 20-30%. So when the charger charges the battery to the proper voltage, it can overcharge the battery. And when the battery comes back to room temperature and gets its normal voltage back, bad juju can happen.
Just remove the batteries that are removable? Even if not charging indoors? It's best to be kept at room temperature if at all possible, within reason.
Very helpful information. Thank you, E-MTBR.
Ha, ha! For sure my good man!
Nice work sir ,I'm getting my first ebike soon
You are most welcome.
We have 3 Specialized ebikes and always time them , always charge them to full and haven't ever had any problems
Yes, that's the most hassle-free way to do it. It works well and is not an issue. The battery doesn't last as long but we don't hang on to these ebikes over 7 years anyway. :)
How does that work, when most bike manufactures say Don't let Lithium Batteries go below 15%, and Don't charge over 75%. Charging to 100% hurts the long life of Lithium Batteries
@@rodneyjones8433 still working great 👍
Think the problem is leaving it at 100% and not riding it.@@rodneyjones8433
Good tips. I’d also suggest being very sure that any extension cords or timers you use are rated for the amount of power your charger draws. Also keep in mind that typical $1.50 household outlets aren’t meant for multiple hours of use at peak current, and they can really heat up. Consider replacing your outlet with an industrial/commercial grade unit.
Most chargers are low wattage. According to specs my charger is 2 amps in and 2 amps out. My outlet is rated for 20 amps so I'm only at 10% capacity.
A better tip is NEVER, EVER use an extension cord. You are just asking for trouble.
11. Always charge your batery at work.
12. Never charge the batery when it is atached to the bike.
If you do these, you get ZERO risks for fire/explosions at home and you only risk loosing your bateries.
This is extreme paranoia that ruins the experience and quality of life.
Burn down your work and make charging 3x as hard.
The danger is minuscule with quality bikes
@@EMTBReview Indeed, quality bikes is the way to go, makes all the difference.
I have a specialised vado 5.0 and I'm supper happy with her.
I charge at home and I leave it on the diy ebike.
Come at me bro
@@EMTBReview Sadly, about a month after I posted this, a colege of mine had his batery catch fire at work. So these things do hapen.
Was it a cheaper brand than mine? Yes, still one does not count on things to go dramaticaly bad. Nobody got injured and in 1 hangar we had a shortcirquit that needed fixing, took them a week. This is a rather big company.
So for me, this is not extreme paranoia, but something like an ensurance. You pay it for hopefuly never needing it.
note: It was not a big fire, the batery + charger + desk were destroyed nothing more. This is not in an ofice building but in a factory.
What is the brand of bike stand you have? Thanks
What are those devices you use to hang your bikes on the wall?
Great tips. Do you have a video on washing emtbs?
Thank you 🙏
Thank you for the tips
You bet!
Put the left crank arm down when charging because it can fall down and hit the charger port of the bike and the cable of the charger and make a bad connection between bike and charger and could provoke a short circuit
Great advice. I know many battery doors and charging plugs broken when the bike is moved or backed up.
Is there a battery tester we can get to show what % is left in our battery . Like the one for my RC trucks .
No there is not. The % left in the battery can be determined by voltage. Problem is a lot of ebike batteries have different voltage capacities.
The other bigger issue is most batteries connectors let you see the live voltage, for safety reasons. The Rosenberger plug for example, used in Specialized ebikes only reveals the power if you put power on an activator lead. That makes it very hard to short-circuit these batteries.
the bluetooth/wifi smart plug is a good idea THANK YOU
You’re welcome
How do you go about getting a new battery for your E Bike
Mine caught fire at my brothers house, his homeowners insurance covered it. The house was a total loss. Since then ive come to know that ebikes are just expensive toys that do not last. A small gas powered Honda is cheaper in the long run.
Wow, thank you. What a ridiculous disaster.
What brand/model of bike and how much?
What brand ?
what does that say about electric cars?
I got a cheap Chinese ebike as a gift and was so concerned about the safety of the battery (no other markings besides CE) that I turned an old metal PC frame into a case with a carrying handle and I put the battery inside every time I charge it. Maybe I can carry it out of the house more easily if it catches on fire hehe
I usually ride only 5-10 miles at a time. So I only charge @ every 3 or 4 days of riding. Lithium batteries like to be charged fully when they are used down to 25-30% left in them.
Good on you! You're using the bike and the charging routine to fit your style and prolonging the life of the battery.
Thank you for a very informative video. I think most of the battery fires are due to user error. That and the poor quality control in China.
agreed
When is the lowest battety i should charge
thanks for the video. don't charge inside a building. the fires are huge and it's too late to move it once they start.
Should the battery be switched off or on when charging?
Either way is fine. The charging mechanism switches it off if it's and issue for that particular bike
@@EMTBReview Thank you very much.
As far as I know Specialized bikes aren’t UL certified, I’m not sure about the Brose components.
Yes, I have three chargers from then and one has the UL label and the other two do not.
@@EMTBReviewI have a Tero X 5 and its charger is not UL certified. It's really surprising that a company like Specialized is not yet certified.
I'm really surprised by this. Thanks for the info.
It is fairly easy to just use a multi-meter and see if the charger is doing the right thing. The algorithm isn't rocket science or magic. It's basically just current limited until it reaches a target voltage, and then voltage limited until the end of charging, then it shuts off. A kill-a-watt can be used to measure watts, divide by the battery voltage to get amps. And a multi-meter to measure the battery voltage.
I think the most common error with incompatible chargers is that the charger over-volts the battery, or doesn't shut-off at the end. Very easy to test if you know the battery specs.
A video on reliable fire bags or boxes would be more helpful.
None will on e-bikes though
@@EMTBReview Huh? I'm trying to find a fire proof bag or box to place my battery in when the bike is in my apartment.
How does that work, when bike manufactures say Don't let Lithium Batteries go below 15%, and Don't charge over 75%. Charging to 100% hurts the long life of Lithium Batteries
I keep my ebike in my living room, and never leave it charging overnight, or unattended. A timer in my phone reminds me to unplug the charger at about 80-90%, since I've never come close to using the whole charge in a simple ride.
Great advice. Even better is have a timer plug that will cut all power after a specified time. No need to be reminded or to unplug.
Anybody with a Rocky mountain instinct powerplay? Just picked one up new from a local dealer. Got home. It’s at 38%, plugged it in and charger led never switches to red, just stays green and it’s taken me 3 hours to gain 3% which it’s supposed to charge the whole battery in 3 hours.
4:30 The text guy was a little tipsy when he wrote that.
If my aniioki A8 dual motor battery catch fire, rip hole building. That thing is huge (that’s what she said)
"Sestablish" a "routing" ? Does anyone proof/check these videos.
No, low budget operation, sorry.
You forgot about the no extension cords rule.
Purposedly ignored. These chargers are only draw 200 watts of power
My VIVI E Bike doesn't have a battery level on my Bike
Jackery Generator is 300 watts
if the bike is charged all the way...how long can I drive it?...I do Doordash and would like to get a bike. I drive all day for about 8 hours. Would this last me the 8 hours.? and where can I charge it instead of my home?
The best opton is to get a bike like an Aventon and get an extra battery. Very easy to swap. Each battery should last 4-5 hours with heavy use. This is a very good option: alnk.to/cHM8V5U
@@EMTBReview And to add on to this - Aventon especially as they utilize torque sensors in their bikes thereby giving the rider more control over battery consumption and more efficient power delivery which means more range.
First tip. Don't buy a Chinese made battery. especially off of Ali Express.
Great tips BTW.
I've had no trouble with AliExpress chargers, they shut off at a lower voltage than supplied charger 41.3V AE charger 41.9V supplied charger, The AE charger is fan cooled, the supplied is like laptop charger
TDR batteries from Aussie eBay are fine, the one thing I don't like is the discharge cutoff, meaning no power at all to the bike electrics, no lights or speedo, the controller in the bike does the job on low voltage protection, cutting off the motor and leaving other electrics active
@@manFromPeterborough Good to know.
Alexa...turn of charger in 4 hours.
Be careful with safety labels. There's $ involved!
If you don't understand what I'm saying, it's best that you do your thorough research on the safety label's background.
Did that battery charger say porche? When did porche make an e bike?!
These high end companies usually partner with a bike manufactuer so they can offer their branded bikes and sell it at their dealerships. This is their line shop.porsche.com/us/en-US/c/e-bikes and they partnered with Rotwild.
I have a 300 watt Generator portable charger I can carry
@4:14 scary
I have to drive 6 hours to do any good riding. I've got an overland rig that have 320 watts of solar and 600 amps of batteries. I can charge 3 batteries and keep the fridge running.
Thanks for sharing. That is a dream setup for ebike adventuring around the country.
Jackery Solar powered Generator 300 watt portable Generator
Ultimately I think there is so much variability in lithium batteries, BMSs, chargers, and e-bike parts and brands, that I don't think buying a brand-name really buys a whole lot of safety. Safer, yes. "Safe" ? I dunno. So many UL listings are fake these days, having a UL symbol doesn't mean a thing any more.
Even your comment "the charger must shutdown" should not make a difference... the BMS built into the battery is supposed to protect the battery, is it not doing its job? Sure, the charger must shut-down, but the BMS should also disconnect the battery when it hits its charge target. Also, these lithium polymer chemistries (NMC, NCA) don't seem to have the robustness to deal with the constant physical abuse that bikes take. Just road vibration alone, for example.
IMHO, the only thing that really, really improves safety is going with LiFePO4 rather than NMC or NCA lithium chemistries. That means taking a range hit, LiFePO4 batteries aren't as energy dense. But man oh man they are a hundred times safer. You can charge them up to 100% every time, and you don't have to worry about leaving the bike unused with the battery charged to 100% causing any damage (LiFePO4 doesn't, not really). And as an added bonus, the LiFePO4 battery packs can handle thousands of charge cycles.
It seems the industry is focused on marketing range, though, and I don't see anywhere near as many LiFePO4 solutions as I do standard lithium solutions. With enough people demanding it, the industry would catch up, just like it did for power stations.
Great comments!!!
I also test a lot of Battery power stations and it seems that category has moved to LiFePO4 batteries because they are more fire resistant. Definitely heavier and bigger for the same capacity as Lithium Ion. Soo, I don't think that's going to catch in emtbs, where most of the weight culprit is already in the batteries. Weight and range are the biggest downers in emtbs and any bike that is 5 lbs. heavier without increasing range will lose in consumer demand.
But new technologies and chemistries are right around the corner I'm sure.
"Fake UL labels" where is the proof of that? A manufacturer would be taking a really big chance selling that.
@@bradsanders6954 Manufacturers fake UL two ways.
The first is simply by putting a fake label on... you can lookup the actual UL number to see if it matches the product.
The second is more insidious. UL only tests equipment sent to it by the vendor. Vendors often send items with premium parts for UL testing, but the actual volume production run uses lower quality parts, and vendors will make engineering changes without having the designs re-tested.
In terms of the risk to their reputations... it is fairly low. There is a reason why you see so many brands available and tend to not recognize the brands even just 6 months later. Its because most of those brands, even the successful ones, get into trouble or lose their reputation, exit stage-left, and then come right back a month later selling the same stuff under a new name.
Very few brands actually become successful enough to want to keep their name and actually make the effort to get a real certification.
We're not talking about Apple or Microsoft or Johnson-and-Johnson here. They don't play these games. But we are talking about a majority of e-bike parts, batteries, BMSs, chargers, and many other related gadgets. The UL sticker is virtually meaningless, and the "brand" you buy from is more or less nothing more than a reseller.
Don’t buy cheap poorly made crappie batteries or chargers from dodgy internet suppliers they do kill.
They're all a fire hazard
That's why it's key to buy quality, UL tested stuff, and learn about them. There are many electrical and lithium battery devices in each household these days.
Don't listen to this guy. He's just trying to sell overpriced bikes
If there are any points you disagree with, please state them clearly and make your case. Otherwise, it sounds like you’re just spreading hate and negativity
Don't listen to these fake John's ;)@@EMTBReview
Get a good charger lol
Ok, get a bad one :)