Truly an excellent and entertaining video along with great installation advice. I will be installing this product around a light switch and will now know how to go about it.
@@philesq Good question. I installed them flush against each other. I haven't noticed any expansion/contraction since my garage never really gets that hot or cold due to no direct sunlight. The instructions don't mention anything about this.
This is awesome. It's funny how much we have in common. I have a Tesla, I just installed Racedeck flooring similar to your Swisstrax, had some custom cabinetry installed....and now I'm researching ProSlat installations and found this. I even have that WiFi repeater like yours and the 'Tesla Parking Only' sign in red, lol....and a similar refrigerator. :) Great install, super clean. Very diligent trim cutting. I like how you handled the outlets too.
Great video. I was going to install a small portion in my garage, but after watching this I may do the entire space. Thanks for shortening the learning curve.
My original plan was just to install slatwall over the studs. But I discovered that local code requires drywall to be installed over insulation. Secondary benefit of drywall is more sound insulation and it also will help thermally when I add HVAC. Yes, taping/mudding/sanding/painting isn't really needed if I'm covering it up anyway.
Thank you for the work you did. You made it look easy. Cheers. My garage has no drywall installed. What's you opinion on installing without the walls, attached to the studs only?
I only used drywall due to local building code requires it if you use insulation. If you are not insulating and your local building code allows it, go right ahead and mount the slatwall directly to the studs.
Wow you did an awesome job. And the video is really helpful. I’m about to do a 12x12 shed with some outlets, a loft area I need to go around and a window. I think when the sections are stacked, they measure 10 5/8. I’m trying to determine if I need to trim any off the bottom before I start as I only have 8’ of wall height I can go.
Proslat comes in 8’x4’ and 4’x4’ sections. Two sections high will fit your 8’ ceiling. Depending on the floor moulding height (if any) you may just need to trim a little from the bottom row.
I love the look. Can you take a few minutes to measure including trim the total width of a complete 8' section. As fate would have it I need to span 8' 2" width.
@@MTNRanger I was following your channel over a year ago, before your garage was built. Your channel must’ve been a UA-cam suggestion. I just got burned out watching too much Tesla content. I just watched several of your new videos and they are really interesting. I get tired of the channels that are just reviewing the same products. I would feel differently if I was about to be a new owner. I put my deposit down on the Model 3 before it was even revealed and Tesla content got me through those tough years of waiting.
The stud is within 6" or so of the H-Trim. The H-Trim is not providing support - it's just to hide the seams, so that is fine. As long as you attach the slats to all the studs, there is enough to provide support. If you want, you can add another stud for that location or cut the slats 6" shorter.
Why did you trim the bottom panel instead of the top? Would this not be easier, more accurate and save assembling twice. Beautiful project, I’m just starting.
I would rather keep a consistent look at the top. It also keeps the slat tops aligned going along the wall and around corners, etc. Honestly, you could do it either way.
Both the left and right sides have windows. I try to place the panels to minimize cutting and waste. Some sections need to be cut to fit around obstacles. But the sections above and below the windows are full length where possible.
MTN Ranger - you said you insulated your detached garage, I have one almost identical that is unfinished. Curious - did you install an HVAC unit for the garage also?
That is my next project. I'm planning on a mini-split heatpump. I've been waiting for a new version of the MrCool DIY 12k BTU. The 4th gen was just recently released.
How did you do the inside corners of the wall? Did you put one J trim all the way in the corner and then when you turned did you the out another j trim up against the panel you already hung?
So I really like this colour and the charcoal, However, my garage is 24" OC studs. It appears your garage is 16" OC. How rigid is this, If I just put heavier objects on the studs would it sufficiently hold say and hook with a couple shovels? If it is too flimsy I will have to upgrade to the Procore or Procore+ which dont have the same colour options. Any opinion or thoughts you might have as someone who actually has it would be greatly appreciated! Great work, Would love to do my whole garage but just too many walls as I have oversized triple car with 12" walls.
The specs call for 16” studs and the rating is 75 lb per square foot. I’m not sure what it would be for 24” spacing. It is pretty rigid. I have two bikes in a close area with no issues.
Thanks for putting this together. Was the drywall necessary for this project? Wondering if it’s possible to install the slatwall directly to the studs and not go through the hassle of installing drywall
I'm a spanking brand new home owner and a real novice at the DIY stuff. My question is how did you figure out how much to trim that first panel at the bottom so it fits at the top. Great work. Love your garage all your videos. Very informative.
Thanks. The standard proslat kit is designed for 8' height. The top of the sill plate to the ceiling was a couple inches shorter. So I just trimmed off that amount and tested it on the first section. For the remainder of the sections, I used the similar measurement.
Not rude at all - I answered a request down below. About $2600 for the Proslat kits. Some from Home Depot included 20 piece hook kits which helped to reduce the cost.
@@MTNRanger thank u so much! I was expecting little more expensive! Not bad at all. I needed to know because I plan on opening a shoe store. And I needed an estimate what someone like this would cost. Thank u! 🙏
The panels are to start and end on a stud. If i start against a door frame on left where there is a stud, and it ends on a stud somewhere less than 8 ft, did you trim the panels to end halfway thru the width of the stud, since we have another set of adjacent panels that will start on that same stud? what type of blade did you use on your mitre saw to trim the panels?
There are a couple ways you could do this. One is add another stud in the wall (if it's open), another is to trim the width of the panels. I added studs to the corners so I could keep the full width of the panels.
@@MTNRanger Trimming panels would be much less work. i assume one would have panel be on one half of stud, and adjacent panel on other half of stud. Did you have a technique to enable you to ensure adjacent panels were placed about halfways on shared stud? i bought bosch stud finder that is supposed to locate stud center, but i am not confident since sometimes readings are not consistent. I thought about pilot drill holes to confirm - wondering if you have any suggestions. btw, i finally have the kit in my garage to install
@@TheDatasmith A good stud finder should help. I guess doing some pilot holes to verify. Since I installed the drywall, I know the stud centers. I didn't have to mud my drywall, so the seams are on the studs.
@@MTNRanger i used pilot hole since Bosch studfinder may have got errors due to pipes and electrical wires. one other question. i have step at door into house from back wall. Step is about 5-6 " inches high. If i have vertifical strip end at side of step, there is about 2" gap between panel trim and door trim, if i have panel trim go vertical from side of step. Or would it look better to have vertical strip go up 6", and then vertical strip follow door which is about 2' inset from side of step?
@@TheDatasmith For consistency of look, personally I would go horizontal. I'm trying to picture what it looks like. Can you send me a photo at mtn_ranger@aol.com ?
Great Job! Thanks so much for the effort to film, I realize that takes an immense amount of work to film. I do have one question: How many hours do you estimate you have into the install of the Slatwall?
I found the few sections took the longest since I had to learn what to do. Getting it to fit with no grap between the foundation sill and ceiling was the tough part. I went and looked at the original video/photo files and the first section took 6 hr 13 min. The second took 6 hr 27 min. The third took 5 hr 34 min.
The foundation concrete blocks have a wood sill plate on top of them. I just painted the blocks and wood. I also caulked the seam between the blocks and wood. I didn’t use any baseboard trim for my project. You can see some closeup views in part 12: ua-cam.com/video/JtYt0BkoVh0/v-deo.html
I’m about to begin a similar garage installation. I like the trick about cutting the first panel to allow proper installation of the top ‘L’ trim. I was considering installing corner ‘J’ channel on only the adjoining wall. Didn’t see a reason to use the ‘J’ channel on both walls at a corner. Do you see any flaws in my thinking?
For the best structural strength, I would use the J trim on both walls in the corners. It keeps the slats aligned and against the wall. Since I had plenty of trim pieces, I never considered otherwise.
I want to buy 2 of the 8x4 kits and install it as an 8x8 wall. Did you need to purchase separate 8ft vertical "J" trims to install it higher than 4ft vertically?
The kit comes with 2 8ft and 2 4ft J trim pieces. Since I bought so many kits, I just separatley purchased 8' H trim pieces to link the kits together. If you don't mind the seam, you can get away with using what comes with the kits.
Hi, not sure if you mentioned but did you install the drywall for insulation purposes as you could have completed without, Also just be careful when screwing things into the wall when the power is on. I noticed when fitting around the outlet it was on, much safer to switch off the breakers. How was installing the side of the window panel, was it challenging as very small width? How much did it all cost? I'm looking to do my double garage ceiling as well with pvc panels so great video to watch.
I think I mentioned elsewhere, that due to code, I had to install the drywall over the insulation. Yes, good point on turning off wall outlets breaker. I have a full breakdown of costs: drive.google.com/file/d/1-0CcrB-IMCe1y7Az2zHpixOfHEeP7Jss/view
Thanks for the reply and breakdown. Never installed drywall, just repaired it. But that must have added a lot more time doing it. Garage looks great though. I want to make my garage waterproof so was interested in how much the slat wall will hold as I don’t want to have to cut around wall shelves as well. I didn’t watch the floor video but will do.😊
I have a very specific area I want the wall to be centered on but what if the studs don’t start and end on the ends of the slat wall? I know it may not have the highest strength possible but is it still doable if the ends don’t exactly end on studs? I would just avoid loading the ends with anything heavy….
Is it possible to add additional studs near the left and right of where you want to install it? I did this on the front wall of the garage for the drywall. That would be the most solid option. If it is only a few inches or so, yes, you could do it and avoid heavy loads at the edges.
Since I knew the slatwall would add thickness, I moved the outlets before installing the drywall. On a couple outlets, I still needed a little extra, so I used these: amzn.to/2Wmltqy
Maybe it's the angle of the video, but it does go through a stud. The width of the panels is 95.75". When you add the vertical trim pieces, you get to 8', which matches the stud arrangement of every 16".
Makes sense. Putting my first lower J-trim on now. Starting from the corner, mine goes 5" past the last right stud. Probably because I have a stud that is 5" from the left corner. I'll have to cut mine to end at the last stud.
Do you think the H-trim between each 8' section is really necessary? It seems to me like it would be a cleaner look on long runs without them. Especially if a person was ambitious enough to stagger the joints between each level.
The H and J-trims allow you to hid uneven slats, and keep everything flat & tidy. They really aren't required structurally. Try it out on one section and see if you like it. You'll have to be super precise with you cuts.
Install the first J trim snug against the wall. Install the panels. On the adjoining wall, place the j trim next to the first one. Then install the panels. Nothing special or tricky.
This video's project was about $2,600 for the Proslat slatwall. The final interior including insulation, drywall, slatwall, Swisstrax floor tile and painting came to about $7,000. The entire garage project from ground prep, construction , to interior was about $50,000. See the final video here: ua-cam.com/video/JtYt0BkoVh0/v-deo.html
I just installed some of this myself, one suggestion is to use single-gang box extender at each outlet to ensure there's no gap between the cover plate and the box. They just slide right into the box and come with longer screws. I believe it's also code in many places. It looks great... at first the interior looks like the exterior with vinyl siding, windows and doors! I had to look twice!
Yes, that's a good idea. For me since I had access to it before I did the dry wall, I moved the boxes out to account for the thickness of the slatwall.
Wow looks really nice. How much does the slat panels cost for this project? Also what did you do for the brick foundation? Did you put a wood casing and paint it? Thanks
About $2600 for the Proslat kits. I painted the concrete block foundation first with sealer primer and then with white concrete paint. The wood sill plate (above the foundation and below the wall) was also painted with semi gloss white. Check out the final video for close ups of the foundation: ua-cam.com/video/JtYt0BkoVh0/v-deo.html
how did you do that all by yourself!!!! Ugh, I want to do this on a wall for my dad, but it is concrete and I don't trust that I can do this on my own!
For concrete, it will require more work. You will need to install furring strips on the concrete. 2x4 or 2x2 most likely would offer enough depth for the screws.
This video's project was about $2,600 for the Proslat slatwall. The final interior including insulation, drywall, slatwall, Swisstrax floor tile and painting came to about $7,000. The entire garage project from ground prep, construction , to interior was about $50,000. See the final video here: ua-cam.com/video/JtYt0BkoVh0/v-deo.html
@@hoganlogan397 I purchased the Proslat slatwall from Costco and Home Depot. During the time (Q3 2020) I got some good deals. Pricing is higher now. I'll have to check my records for the exact number of kits purchased, but I think it was 18.
Here is what the manufacturer told me: “The best way to install on concrete is to fasten 2x4 studs flat against the wall using tapcons , install those every 16" like traditional studs , once you have those fastened to the wall you can then mount the proslat as you would a regular installation , however in this type of install you will need to get shorter screws than the ones we provide . We provide 2" panhead wood screws , however you will need 1 1/4" panhead wood screws to mount in this way .”
Did you have trouble getting the slat wall that stacks on top of one another to snap into place? The bottom part of the groove of a slat is not snapping into place. Any tips?
Proslat accessories are garbage and over priced too. The slat wall is nice. Tip: yes you can use other manufacturers accessories such as the gladiator wire angled shoe rack with very minor modifications. Also, any standard slat wall hooks will work and are way cheaper and better quality.
Is this overkill? Yes. Is this absolutely amazing? Yes.
I appreciate the time you took filming especially with the outlets!
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Dude !! you are handy as hell ... if this is the quality you get first time doing this project, you are at a different level already !
Thanks! Yes, first time doing anything like this project.
Man, that was impressive. I’m looking to install just two panels and been sweatin all the details but after watching this you gave me hope!
Good luck!
I’m about to embark on this same build! Will be using this as a template. Thank you for the in-depth walkthrough!
Excellent video - gave me all the info I needed to get started with the build - hopefully it goes as well as yours did.
Truly an excellent and entertaining video along with great installation advice. I will be installing this product around a light switch and will now know how to go about it.
Thanks, I appreciate your comments.
Great video. This week, I'm going to do all the walls in a 3 car garage with white ProSlat up to 8'. The ceiling is 12'.
I hope it works out well for you!
@@MTNRanger I assume the panels should be slightly loose to accommodate expansion. Do you know how snug/loose they should be?
@@philesq Good question. I installed them flush against each other. I haven't noticed any expansion/contraction since my garage never really gets that hot or cold due to no direct sunlight. The instructions don't mention anything about this.
Fantastic results
This is awesome. It's funny how much we have in common. I have a Tesla, I just installed Racedeck flooring similar to your Swisstrax, had some custom cabinetry installed....and now I'm researching ProSlat installations and found this. I even have that WiFi repeater like yours and the 'Tesla Parking Only' sign in red, lol....and a similar refrigerator. :) Great install, super clean. Very diligent trim cutting. I like how you handled the outlets too.
Great minds think alike! Thanks for the kind words.
@@MTNRanger Indeed sir!
OMG. I have a brand new slat wall to put up and I forgot that there is an electrical outlet in the way. This video saved the day. Thanks!
I hope all turns out well!
Great video. I was going to install a small portion in my garage, but after watching this I may do the entire space. Thanks for shortening the learning curve.
Good luck with the project!
Cool project.
I was wondering why you didn't tape and mud the drywall, but it all makes sense now. That does look really nice!
My original plan was just to install slatwall over the studs. But I discovered that local code requires drywall to be installed over insulation. Secondary benefit of drywall is more sound insulation and it also will help thermally when I add HVAC. Yes, taping/mudding/sanding/painting isn't really needed if I'm covering it up anyway.
Tesla talks to tesla ...
@@billknows1980 ya Tesla talks to Tesla and BILL knows
Hell of a job , love it
Thank you for the work you did. You made it look easy. Cheers.
My garage has no drywall installed. What's you opinion on installing without the walls, attached to the studs only?
I only used drywall due to local building code requires it if you use insulation. If you are not insulating and your local building code allows it, go right ahead and mount the slatwall directly to the studs.
You made it look and done easy. 👍 cool gadgets too!
Damn, one helluva job
Great job 👍
Wow you did an awesome job. And the video is really helpful. I’m about to do a 12x12 shed with some outlets, a loft area I need to go around and a window. I think when the sections are stacked, they measure 10 5/8. I’m trying to determine if I need to trim any off the bottom before I start as I only have 8’ of wall height I can go.
Proslat comes in 8’x4’ and 4’x4’ sections. Two sections high will fit your 8’ ceiling. Depending on the floor moulding height (if any) you may just need to trim a little from the bottom row.
Thanks for this- helped me a lot more than the company videos to figure out some techniques. Your setup looks great!
Thanks, I hope it turns out well!
I love the look. Can you take a few minutes to measure including trim the total width of a complete 8' section. As fate would have it I need to span 8' 2" width.
I measure 8’1.5” from the left side of the left H Trim to the right side of the right H-trim. If you use the included J-trim, you will get 8’ even.
The two colors… White and gray our key. They look great. But wondering if they sell cabinets to hang on those walls?
If you go to their website, they only sell free standing cabinets. There are a ton of shelves and baskets on their accessories page.
I love all the Tesla tips on your channel and I just realized that you are the new garage guy!
Did you see the garage on a message board or group?
@@MTNRanger I was following your channel over a year ago, before your garage was built. Your channel must’ve been a UA-cam suggestion. I just got burned out watching too much Tesla content. I just watched several of your new videos and they are really interesting. I get tired of the channels that are just reviewing the same products. I would feel differently if I was about to be a new owner. I put my deposit down on the Model 3 before it was even revealed and Tesla content got me through those tough years of waiting.
@@mitchellbarnow1709 Thank you for watching!
Good job man, it looks great !
Thank you!
Fantastic job, looks great. You did a great job.
Someone gave me leftover slats. Do you think I could use it without the J and L trim? Great video btw. Thank you.
If you are just doing a small section, it’s mostly to make things look tidy. Make sure to use screws at both slat ends so it is secure.
@@MTNRanger Thank you!
In the first row of Slatwall, it looks like the h-bracket is not on the stud. Am I seeing this right? Thanks.
The stud is within 6" or so of the H-Trim. The H-Trim is not providing support - it's just to hide the seams, so that is fine. As long as you attach the slats to all the studs, there is enough to provide support. If you want, you can add another stud for that location or cut the slats 6" shorter.
How do you stall the top trim? It doesn't seem to lock properly. Thank you.
The top trim slides into the groove at the top. Depending on how close to the ceiling affects how it goes in and stays in.
Fantastic job. I had a question. How many inches from the floor starts your bottom trim/panel. Looks about the best height.
It's 11" inches tall. Removing the Swisstrax, it is 11.75".
@@MTNRanger thank you.
this guy is my hero
Why did you trim the bottom panel instead of the top? Would this not be easier, more accurate and save assembling twice. Beautiful project, I’m just starting.
I would rather keep a consistent look at the top. It also keeps the slat tops aligned going along the wall and around corners, etc. Honestly, you could do it either way.
Did you have to trim length of left wall since you have a window on that side?
Both the left and right sides have windows. I try to place the panels to minimize cutting and waste. Some sections need to be cut to fit around obstacles. But the sections above and below the windows are full length where possible.
MTN Ranger - you said you insulated your detached garage, I have one almost identical that is unfinished. Curious - did you install an HVAC unit for the garage also?
That is my next project. I'm planning on a mini-split heatpump. I've been waiting for a new version of the MrCool DIY 12k BTU. The 4th gen was just recently released.
How did you do the inside corners of the wall? Did you put one J trim all the way in the corner and then when you turned did you the out another j trim up against the panel you already hung?
Yes, that ended up being the best way to do it.
This is AWESOME!
Could you have used the Jigsaw to make the cuts for electrical outlets?
A jigsaw probably could be also used. The oscillating saw gives better precision.
Awesome job! Looks great!
Thanks, I appreciate that.
So I really like this colour and the charcoal, However, my garage is 24" OC studs. It appears your garage is 16" OC. How rigid is this, If I just put heavier objects on the studs would it sufficiently hold say and hook with a couple shovels? If it is too flimsy I will have to upgrade to the Procore or Procore+ which dont have the same colour options. Any opinion or thoughts you might have as someone who actually has it would be greatly appreciated! Great work, Would love to do my whole garage but just too many walls as I have oversized triple car with 12" walls.
The specs call for 16” studs and the rating is 75 lb per square foot. I’m not sure what it would be for 24” spacing. It is pretty rigid. I have two bikes in a close area with no issues.
Thanks for putting this together. Was the drywall necessary for this project? Wondering if it’s possible to install the slatwall directly to the studs and not go through the hassle of installing drywall
My local codes required the drywall since I also put in insulation batts. If you don't have insulation, you can just install directly to the studs.
I'm a spanking brand new home owner and a real novice at the DIY stuff. My question is how did you figure out how much to trim that first panel at the bottom so it fits at the top.
Great work. Love your garage all your videos. Very informative.
Thanks. The standard proslat kit is designed for 8' height. The top of the sill plate to the ceiling was a couple inches shorter. So I just trimmed off that amount and tested it on the first section. For the remainder of the sections, I used the similar measurement.
@@MTNRanger Okay, thank you very much sir
This looks nice, but the hooks and tools are ultimately hanging on plastic...what is the rated weight for the slots?
It’s rated at up to 75 lbs per square foot.
@@MTNRanger Awesome, thank you.
I hate to be rude but how much did it cost for those slats walls all together? Or an estimate? Thank you!
Not rude at all - I answered a request down below. About $2600 for the Proslat kits. Some from Home Depot included 20 piece hook kits which helped to reduce the cost.
@@MTNRanger thank u so much! I was expecting little more expensive! Not bad at all. I needed to know because I plan on opening a shoe store. And I needed an estimate what someone like this would cost. Thank u! 🙏
The panels are to start and end on a stud. If i start against a door frame on left where there is a stud, and it ends on a stud somewhere less than 8 ft, did you trim the panels to end halfway thru the width of the stud, since we have another set of adjacent panels that will start on that same stud? what type of blade did you use on your mitre saw to trim the panels?
There are a couple ways you could do this. One is add another stud in the wall (if it's open), another is to trim the width of the panels. I added studs to the corners so I could keep the full width of the panels.
@@MTNRanger Trimming panels would be much less work. i assume one would have panel be on one half of stud, and adjacent panel on other half of stud. Did you have a technique to enable you to ensure adjacent panels were placed about halfways on shared stud? i bought bosch stud finder that is supposed to locate stud center, but i am not confident since sometimes readings are not consistent. I thought about pilot drill holes to confirm - wondering if you have any suggestions. btw, i finally have the kit in my garage to install
@@TheDatasmith A good stud finder should help. I guess doing some pilot holes to verify. Since I installed the drywall, I know the stud centers. I didn't have to mud my drywall, so the seams are on the studs.
@@MTNRanger i used pilot hole since Bosch studfinder may have got errors due to pipes and electrical wires. one other question. i have step at door into house from back wall. Step is about 5-6 " inches high. If i have vertifical strip end at side of step, there is about 2" gap between panel trim and door trim, if i have panel trim go vertical from side of step. Or would it look better to have vertical strip go up 6", and then vertical strip follow door which is about 2' inset from side of step?
@@TheDatasmith For consistency of look, personally I would go horizontal. I'm trying to picture what it looks like. Can you send me a photo at mtn_ranger@aol.com ?
Great Job! Thanks so much for the effort to film, I realize that takes an immense amount of work to film. I do have one question: How many hours do you estimate you have into the install of the Slatwall?
I found the few sections took the longest since I had to learn what to do. Getting it to fit with no grap between the foundation sill and ceiling was the tough part. I went and looked at the original video/photo files and the first section took 6 hr 13 min. The second took 6 hr 27 min. The third took 5 hr 34 min.
Amazing work!!!
Thank you for those kind words.
How did you do the bottom concrete stem wall/trim? What kind of baseboard did you use?
The foundation concrete blocks have a wood sill plate on top of them. I just painted the blocks and wood. I also caulked the seam between the blocks and wood. I didn’t use any baseboard trim for my project. You can see some closeup views in part 12: ua-cam.com/video/JtYt0BkoVh0/v-deo.html
I’m about to begin a similar garage installation. I like the trick about cutting the first panel to allow proper installation of the top ‘L’ trim. I was considering installing corner ‘J’ channel on only the adjoining wall. Didn’t see a reason to use the ‘J’ channel on both walls at a corner. Do you see any flaws in my thinking?
For the best structural strength, I would use the J trim on both walls in the corners. It keeps the slats aligned and against the wall. Since I had plenty of trim pieces, I never considered otherwise.
Awesome job 👏... How much did the Proslat cost you?
This video's project was about $2,600 for the Proslat slatwall.
@@MTNRanger thanks! I'm guessing is waterproof?
@@alexl6433 I wouldn't go spraying it with a water hose.
Awesome!
I want to buy 2 of the 8x4 kits and install it as an 8x8 wall. Did you need to purchase separate 8ft vertical "J" trims to install it higher than 4ft vertically?
The kit comes with 2 8ft and 2 4ft J trim pieces. Since I bought so many kits, I just separatley purchased 8' H trim pieces to link the kits together. If you don't mind the seam, you can get away with using what comes with the kits.
Hi, not sure if you mentioned but did you install the drywall for insulation purposes as you could have completed without, Also just be careful when screwing things into the wall when the power is on. I noticed when fitting around the outlet it was on, much safer to switch off the breakers. How was installing the side of the window panel, was it challenging as very small width? How much did it all cost? I'm looking to do my double garage ceiling as well with pvc panels so great video to watch.
I think I mentioned elsewhere, that due to code, I had to install the drywall over the insulation. Yes, good point on turning off wall outlets breaker. I have a full breakdown of costs: drive.google.com/file/d/1-0CcrB-IMCe1y7Az2zHpixOfHEeP7Jss/view
Thanks for the reply and breakdown. Never installed drywall, just repaired it. But that must have added a lot more time doing it. Garage looks great though. I want to make my garage waterproof so was interested in how much the slat wall will hold as I don’t want to have to cut around wall shelves as well. I didn’t watch the floor video but will do.😊
@@Homewithdaddy Thanks. I had a company install the 12' drywall on the ceiling since that's hard for one person.
looks like garage siding installed on the inside, garage is inside out
You’re not the first person to say this!
Did you only use proslat hooks and accessories or did you use aftermarket stuff?
I only used Proslat products.
Hey there, how are the inside corners done. I’m not finding anything anywhere.
When starting the second wall, it starts right next to the first wall. So the second J Trim is touching the existing J trim at 90 degrees.
On the second wall how was the second j molding nailed? My stud does not come out that far. Am I missing something ? Thanks
Which color is it ? Light gray or charcoal?
It is called "Light Grey" . Their other colors are White, Charcoal (dark grey), and Sandstone (beige).
Why do the slats look so glossy? Are there any matte options? I could not find any but saw some pictures of proslat walls that look more matte.
Maybe just the video, they don't look that glossy to me. They only sell one finish, but you can pick colors.
Well done thanks for sharing this ,what's the size of your awesome garage ?
It's 24' wide by 22' deep. If I had a chance to do it over, 24' deep would have been perfect.
@@MTNRanger Thank you :) you mentioned the size of your garage in beginning of the video lol my bad ✌️
I have a very specific area I want the wall to be centered on but what if the studs don’t start and end on the ends of the slat wall? I know it may not have the highest strength possible but is it still doable if the ends don’t exactly end on studs? I would just avoid loading the ends with anything heavy….
Is it possible to add additional studs near the left and right of where you want to install it? I did this on the front wall of the garage for the drywall. That would be the most solid option. If it is only a few inches or so, yes, you could do it and avoid heavy loads at the edges.
Great VIdeo!! Did you use outlet extenders for the outlets, or did you have them already spaced out from drywall?
Since I knew the slatwall would add thickness, I moved the outlets before installing the drywall. On a couple outlets, I still needed a little extra, so I used these: amzn.to/2Wmltqy
For that first section, the vertical H-trim on the right looks like it isn't over a stud. Am I seeing it wrong? What did you drill into?
Maybe it's the angle of the video, but it does go through a stud. The width of the panels is 95.75". When you add the vertical trim pieces, you get to 8', which matches the stud arrangement of every 16".
Makes sense. Putting my first lower J-trim on now. Starting from the corner, mine goes 5" past the last right stud. Probably because I have a stud that is 5" from the left corner. I'll have to cut mine to end at the last stud.
Yes, a lot depends on your situation and how the builder did their stud spacing.
@@carolinacaro2311 Yes, if you need to cut them due to the stud spacing, then go ahead.
Hi what colour is the Slatwall?
I got the white and light gray slatwall.
Do you think the H-trim between each 8' section is really necessary? It seems to me like it would be a cleaner look on long runs without them. Especially if a person was ambitious enough to stagger the joints between each level.
The H and J-trims allow you to hid uneven slats, and keep everything flat & tidy. They really aren't required structurally. Try it out on one section and see if you like it. You'll have to be super precise with you cuts.
How resistant is this to door dings?
I haven't tested, but they are pretty tough. I'll look into that.
Looks good. Curious, why did you put up the drywall and not just install these over the studs?
That was my original plan. However in my area, code requires drywall if insulation is used.
How did you install at the inside corners?
Install the first J trim snug against the wall. Install the panels. On the adjoining wall, place the j trim next to the first one. Then install the panels. Nothing special or tricky.
@@MTNRanger thanks. Trying to start a storage room build and that’s the only part that’s been giving me trouble.
Looks amazing!! How much did it cost for you to do your garage? Thanks!
This video's project was about $2,600 for the Proslat slatwall. The final interior including insulation, drywall, slatwall, Swisstrax floor tile and painting came to about $7,000. The entire garage project from ground prep, construction , to interior was about $50,000. See the final video here: ua-cam.com/video/JtYt0BkoVh0/v-deo.html
Were you bought the panels?
I purchased them from Home Depot and Costco. They can also be purchased directly from proslat.com.
I just installed some of this myself, one suggestion is to use single-gang box extender at each outlet to ensure there's no gap between the cover plate and the box. They just slide right into the box and come with longer screws. I believe it's also code in many places.
It looks great... at first the interior looks like the exterior with vinyl siding, windows and doors! I had to look twice!
Yes, that's a good idea. For me since I had access to it before I did the dry wall, I moved the boxes out to account for the thickness of the slatwall.
@@MTNRanger ahh, yeah a bit of preplanning does ya good!!
Great job it looks awesome. Definitely a dream garage. You must have construction background to do all the cuts precisely. 👍
Thanks for the compliment. No experience in construction at all. I did plenty of mistakes, and learned as I went along how best to get it done.
Wow looks really nice. How much does the slat panels cost for this project? Also what did you do for the brick foundation? Did you put a wood casing and paint it? Thanks
About $2600 for the Proslat kits. I painted the concrete block foundation first with sealer primer and then with white concrete paint. The wood sill plate (above the foundation and below the wall) was also painted with semi gloss white. Check out the final video for close ups of the foundation: ua-cam.com/video/JtYt0BkoVh0/v-deo.html
How much did this cost?
About $2600 for the Proslat kits.
how did you do that all by yourself!!!! Ugh, I want to do this on a wall for my dad, but it is concrete and I don't trust that I can do this on my own!
Great job!!! Looks beautiful!!
For concrete, it will require more work. You will need to install furring strips on the concrete. 2x4 or 2x2 most likely would offer enough depth for the screws.
What was the finished price total for this? Yikes!!!
This video's project was about $2,600 for the Proslat slatwall. The final interior including insulation, drywall, slatwall, Swisstrax floor tile and painting came to about $7,000. The entire garage project from ground prep, construction , to interior was about $50,000. See the final video here: ua-cam.com/video/JtYt0BkoVh0/v-deo.html
@@MTNRanger $2,600 for the slat wall…. No way. Roughly 10 panels did your entire garage? Or is this some cheap knock off slat wall?
@@hoganlogan397 I purchased the Proslat slatwall from Costco and Home Depot. During the time (Q3 2020) I got some good deals. Pricing is higher now. I'll have to check my records for the exact number of kits purchased, but I think it was 18.
can this be installed onto masonry walls?
Here is what the manufacturer told me: “The best way to install on concrete is to fasten 2x4 studs flat against the wall using tapcons , install those every 16" like traditional studs , once you have those fastened to the wall you can then mount the proslat as you would a regular installation , however in this type of install you will need to get shorter screws than the ones we provide . We provide 2" panhead wood screws , however you will need 1 1/4" panhead wood screws to mount in this way .”
@@MTNRanger thank you
Does it have to be installed on drywall?
No it doesn’t. However the building code in my area requires drywall to cover insulation.
Looks great, but it seems that you went just a tiny bit overboard there...
Overboard is the goal!
Does the H trim come longer? I checked their website and the longest is 48.5 inch.
Here's the link I found for 8ft H Trim: proslat.com/collections/pvc-slatwall/products/8-h-trims-multiple-colors
@@MTNRanger I live in Canada and unfortunately they only offer it in 48.5 inches. Makes no sense since the product is made in Canada.
@@chetanpatel5473 Sorry to hear. Yes, I was looking at the US version of the site.
Did you have trouble getting the slat wall that stacks on top of one another to snap into place? The bottom part of the groove of a slat is not snapping into place. Any tips?
Are the slatwall sections all the same color and/or from the same box?
Just finished my garage with this. I used a hacksaw. I burned alot of calories :)
I bet!
So the wall is nice but not when you just throw every thing you’ve got in it lol. I mean it should be better organized imo.
Your left wall looks like your right wall.
@@Bills_Bicycle_Rides The left wall has a window and a door. The right wall only has a window.
Excellent video if you do not know how to waste your money ...
Will you be my dad? It looks glorious
Those seams are terrible. The grooves between one adjacent sections are way off. C-
Proslat accessories are garbage and over priced too. The slat wall is nice. Tip: yes you can use other manufacturers accessories such as the gladiator wire angled shoe rack with very minor modifications. Also, any standard slat wall hooks will work and are way cheaper and better quality.