oh man, who ever discover this mod, you are a genius!!!! I ordered the part on ebay 2 weeks ago, and got the part today. Took me about 2~3 hrs to do it. Works like a dream. no more scary noise on start up. This mod is truly amazing, I'm so happy now lol. It's a 1979 CB750 DOHC.
Great video with the details. I rebuilt my clutch 3 times before I did this upgrade. Now I share this on FB posts on Honda CB pages whenever someone starts talking about a starter clutch.
Gonna add my 2 cents worth to this video. I have an '81 Honda CB900 Custom that was making the exact same noises as Scott's other video illustrates. I did the mod shown in this video, and it worked exactly as Scott said it would. Bravo for a genius "fix" and a well-done video. Thanks Scott!
I converted my 83 Honda CB1000 custom using this method. It worked like a charm. I would strongly recommend using a machine shop to set up the drilling. I have a vertical mill and precision tooling that allowed me to make the cuts for the new bearing on the reused Honda Part. No more grinding at start up.
Awesome! I have done both drilling new holes and slotting without using a machine shop. But to some, that may be a better option. Thanks for the input!
Awesome and very helpful video, Scott. I've been paying for these not knowing that I could make my own for half the price. Thanks very much for sharing your knowledge and for your very straightforward, no-nonsense video.
Just did this rebuild but did not use the R6 part. Found 2 bolts loose and one was partly stripped. Bought 3 new bolts, cleaned the threads with carb cleaner and let them soak a while. Used blue thread locker and put back together. Sounds great now no more grinding. As long as all the parts are in good condition, everything will work fine. You really don't need to go to another brand as it needs to be modified. Unless you have a drill press and you know what you are doing it is really not necessary. I installed new rollers springs and pushers and it made no difference whatsoever. What I still had is a sound like an old car horn . . .aahhhh ooooooo gaahhhh. Ahhhh oooo gaaahhhhh. Sounded like a dry non loaded bushing in the starter. Took it all apart and found lots of black fluffy dust and a dry bushing. Cleaned it all out applied grease to the bush, put it all together and HEY, no more Ahhhhh ooooo gaahhhhhh sound ! ! !
Hi. I did this modification on my Honda cb900-81. The best modification of all time. Can run the starter until the battery is almost empty without the starter "dropping". Will do the same modification on my next build to a caferacer. Lasse and Ymer from Sweden
Awesome..going crazy trying to figure out what was making that gosh awful noise on my 82 900f. Tore the starter motor out and removed the stator cover thinking maybe the gears were stripped. If it happens again maybe I'll risk drilling holes for the mod. Great video and thanks!
hi scott, thank you for teply you are very kind and brave...the cb 900 81 has the same mechanism i readed the upgrade that work fine from another followeer present in this video...
This is awesome. I'm going to try it on my 1980 GL1100 which is now making that noise you accurately duplicated for us twice😂 Ya, its embarrassing. I won't know for sure until I get into it, but i think Honda used the same starter clutch on a bunch of bikes, so my chances are good....
I was ready to order this but I don't see how this will fix the thread issue. You're still using threads, except now it's 6 bolts that could potentially fail. Besides having more bearings for possibly a smoother start. There's still a very good chance you'll have to reopen this if you didn't clean the threads right.
Aside from the sprag being a better design, more bolts lessen the torque load on the assembly. Think of it like a 4 lug nut wheel being swapped for a 5 or 6 lug. Personally, I have not see this design fail yet.
Hi Scott, thank you for sharing! Do you have an OEM code of this part of r6? i'd like to make this upgrade , but firstly I want to know the tail first! thank you for your time
@@Exit39gmail Hey Scott I know this video is old but I have a CB 1100 F 1983 and it already has a bunch of holes in it and looks like I could just elongate the holes to match up with the new starter clutch it is not solid like the CB 900 any help would be appreciated thank you I have a picture if you’d like me to send
yeah one question don't you know that thread locker should be put on and then torqued basically right away as it reacts with air to expand that's how it locks also good habit to shake the bottle before use
Scott did you use the yamaha 5SL-15590-00-00 or aftermarket, i have aftermarket and the bearing will not fit the hub cb900c also have a spare hub same thing, i also noticed that drilling the six holes in the flange has to be spot on if not the brass bushing in the center of the hub will wear out.... i drilled the holes to 3/8th...at least five thou will have to be taken off the hub flange, to get the bearing to fit...
The one I used is from a 2009. No aftermarket. According to another site I pulled this information from, these models use the 5SL-15590-00-00 starter clutch.
You can use a regular drill. I should have video'd that process. Maybe next time as I have a CB750 waiting in the wings with the new starter clutch on the bench. :)
I know you probably don't know but is the CB900 starter clutch the same as the CB750 clutch? OI have a 1982 750c with what sounds like a worn or loose bolted clutch and would like to do this mod.
Yes you will need to drop the oil. Also advisable to get rid of any oil remnants on the sprag threads, use the proper loctite cleaning agent before applying the loctite.
Hi. Thanks for the Video. The R6 sprag in the video is from an 09 model, as stated. Do you know what other R6 model years have the same assembly that will fit the CB900F?
Hi Scott!! I came across your tutorial late last year. Absolute genius Scott!!!!. Thank you very much for posting it. I have now obtained the parts to do the conversion, but would like your advice if you can provide it? I need help re. the measuring of the distance between the 6x holes on the bearing body and how you transcribe that measurement onto the (3 hole) locking plate to enable the 6x new holes to be drilled into it? Can you provide the following information 1) Am I correct in thinking the distance from the centre to centre of 2 of the opposing 6 holes is 750mm? 2) Is it critical that you use an 8mm drill piece to drill the holes, and must they align perfectly with the threaded holes on the bearing body (or is there some room for a little play - you mention that some people choose to extend the existing 3 holes on the locking plate to reach 3 of the tapped holes in the bearing body - this cannot be a very accurate method, surely?) 3) Would you recommend drilling exactly 8mm holes or can you use a slightly larger drill bit, for example a 9mm (if it is not critical to have the drilled holes in the locking plate the same size and perfectly aligned)? 4) How did you manage to accurately measure, locate and mark the new 6x drill points on the 3 hole locking plate (because of the central shaft on one side and flange on the other side - making it not flat - and being in the way)? 5) Is it possible to complete the drilling in a home workshop with ordinary workshop tools? Any help you can provide Scott would be greatly appreciated!!!! Many many thanks - John.
Hey John, thanks! I do want to make clear that I did not discover this. I only intended to offer my version and insight from another perspective. But I'm certainly glad it is of use! Anyway, I really did not measure the holes. Regarding "elongating the holes": @ 3:53 you can see when the three holes are lined up with the new assembly you could just elongate the holes by slotting them on the plate 'inward' so as to still use three attaching points. I chose to use all six. The best I can explain it is to measure the hole distances and inset from the edges on the R6 part, create a cardboard/paper template and using a compass transfer them to the Honda plate. I used a simple Harbor Freight drill press. Many of my tools are inexpensive as I'm not a shop and have little need for expensive tools that can be bashed on hour after hour, day after day and year after year. The hole size is not so critical and only needs to accommodate the bolt going through it and adequate seating area for the bolt head. The bolt size itself IS critical though. I hope some of this helps. It's been a while since I did this and I only did it once as it's documented here. I sold this bike shortly after this video.
Hi Scott! Good to hear from you mate! Your video was excellent by the way? After I sent my note last night - I figured a template out of stiff paper / cardboard would be the best route to take. I got new bolts from my Honda dealer which fit the Yam bearing body perfectly! My CB is going into the shop at Easter after the snow is gone to have a bank of refurbished carbs fitted (and also hopefully to have the new starter motor bits fitted at the same time only - if I get the holes drilled by then!). By the way have you seen the listings from 'headlesscycles' on US Ebay (from Oregon)? The trader has sold (sells) this conversion for $249? This seller states: "The key to making a long lasting unit is to surface grind each gear so it meets the sprag manufacturer's specification for diameter and surface finish. Without surface grinding, the worn out surface of a used gear race and the out of spec diameter could lead to premature failure. The stock starter gear race is ~.004" too large for the sprag and if it were used as-is then it is nearly impossible to get the sprag onto the gear race without disassembling the unit. Even after removing .004" from the race, the sprag is difficult to mount so a bevel is machines onto each gear race. This facilitates assembly and prevents damage to the sprag due to the application of excessive side force". Like you Scott, with a little practice I found the sprag easy to mount. Did you have any longevity problems by not removing the .004' from the race as stated in the sellers blurb above? and do you think this would cause any problems (excessive wear) in the long term? Thanks again Scott! Your assistance is much appreciated. Regards - John.
great upgrade. I am going to do this upgrade because I also have a 900c that makes the same noise and won't turn over. buy I was wondering about the year the one you are using doesn't look like a 09 on the microphish it looks more like a 05. I'm not sure which one to order
Im having a heck of a time getting the r6 bearing around the CB 900 gear/sprocket without the center bearing popping out Any recommendations to make this easier. Mine is a 2001 R6 bearing...maybe it's bigger?
I would like to say yes as Honda interchanges parts vastly among models. As I don't have experience with that model though, double check your measurements and confirm with the unit you intend to purchase (spline diameter, teeth, etc). And by all means, report your findings back here to keep others in the know.
Hey mate, where did you get your r6 parts from? I've found the 09-15 model R6 has the same one way bearing and pressure plate so I'm just seeing where the best place to purchase them would be. I live in Australia.
I can't seem to remove the center bolt on the advancer assembly. It won't budge at all. Do you have any advice on removing it? It's on a 1982 cb750sc with two previous owners, and I'm willing to bet that it has never been removed before. Silly question, is it a right hand thread where I just need to lefty-loosey it?
Id try tapping your wrench or ratchet with a hammer. Mine took quite a bit of force to break it free. Also, if your bike is on the stand chalk the wheel so it doesn't slip. P.S. its a lefty loosey righty tighty.
Blake Stone yea I was able to remove it with an impact drill. On another note, maybe you know the answer to this next question. That clutch gear spins freely counterclockwise when it is on crank. I tightened down those 3 bolts and added some loc tite. It seems that the crank is supposed to be rotating CCW, which would make me believe that the clutch gear should spin freely CW and provide resistance (ie turning the crankshaft) CCW. thoughts?
Yes. To reduce chances of them backing out again, thoroughly clean the threaded areas and apply thread locker. I'd advise at least removing the entire unit and checking for wear. The R6 swap is a fantastic upgrade though.
So I recently did this mod to my 750C and I am having a hard time getting the bike to start now (Turns over just fine but doesn't seem to want to actually light off). Just wondering, when doing the install of parts, does the advancer have to be applied in a specific way or is it simply just screw the main bolt in and tighten her down? Just trying to rule this out as a possibility.
Aside from this modification, have you checked your fuel delivery? Spark plugs/wires? Coils? Etc? Just another though. I've had completely unrelated parts go bad on these older bikes when I'm working on something else. Happens a lot. Anyway, to check your starter clutch work, make certain that the pin on the back of the spark advancer is not damaged, broken or missing AND that it is lined up with the slot on the crankshaft. Check that the spacer is installed and correctly. Double check the torque on the bolts holding the starter clutch assembly together. As well, check the installation of driven gears (small gears to upper right of the main drive gear).
yeah all the gears are lined up fine, used all your torque specs properly. it turns over fine and did fire once but after that it has given me issues sparking again. new plugs, dyna coils, and new carbs that are clean and jetted pretty close to stock which is what I need. Did the clutch mod since I did have one bolt back out on my stock unit. Thinking it's electrical. The starter solenoid was sparking a bit and wondering if that would rob the plugs of enough spark to fire even though the starter motor is spinning fast enough to turn the bike over
Yes, FastLight61 used this process on his '81 CB900. My video is modifying my '82 CB900C. For your '79 CB750K it may be the same, but because I have not worked on one I don't want to say a definitive yes. I also have an '80 CB750F and it looks similar, but I have not performed this upgrade just yet.
oh man, who ever discover this mod, you are a genius!!!! I ordered the part on ebay 2 weeks ago, and got the part today. Took me about 2~3 hrs to do it. Works like a dream. no more scary noise on start up. This mod is truly amazing, I'm so happy now lol. It's a 1979 CB750 DOHC.
Great video with the details. I rebuilt my clutch 3 times before I did this upgrade. Now I share this on FB posts on Honda CB pages whenever someone starts talking about a starter clutch.
Gonna add my 2 cents worth to this video. I have an '81 Honda CB900 Custom that was making the exact same noises as Scott's other video illustrates. I did the mod shown in this video, and it worked exactly as Scott said it would. Bravo for a genius "fix" and a well-done video. Thanks Scott!
Thanks bud, glad to help.
I converted my 83 Honda CB1000 custom using this method. It worked like a charm. I would strongly recommend using a machine shop to set up the drilling. I have a vertical mill and precision tooling that allowed me to make the cuts for the new bearing on the reused Honda Part. No more grinding at start up.
Awesome! I have done both drilling new holes and slotting without using a machine shop. But to some, that may be a better option. Thanks for the input!
Awesome and very helpful video, Scott. I've been paying for these not knowing that I could make my own for half the price. Thanks very much for sharing your knowledge and for your very straightforward, no-nonsense video.
Just did this rebuild but did not use the R6 part. Found 2 bolts loose and one was partly stripped. Bought 3 new bolts, cleaned the threads with carb cleaner and let them soak a while. Used blue thread locker and put back together. Sounds great now no more grinding. As long as all the parts are in good condition, everything will work fine. You really don't need to go to another brand as it needs to be modified. Unless you have a drill press and you know what you are doing it is really not necessary. I installed new rollers springs and pushers and it made no difference whatsoever. What I still had is a sound like an old car horn . . .aahhhh ooooooo gaahhhh. Ahhhh oooo gaaahhhhh. Sounded like a dry non loaded bushing in the starter. Took it all apart and found lots of black fluffy dust and a dry bushing. Cleaned it all out applied grease to the bush, put it all together and HEY, no more Ahhhhh ooooo gaahhhhhh sound ! ! !
Thank YOU SO MUCH!!! I've been busting my head trying to find out what caused this sound!
Hi. I did this modification on my Honda cb900-81. The best modification of all time. Can run the starter until the battery is almost empty without the starter "dropping". Will do the same modification on my next build to a caferacer. Lasse and Ymer from Sweden
I have a Honda 1983 CB1000. I tried this fix, works great. I can't thank you enough. Did exactly as the video describes. Thank You !
John Snyder Awesome to hear and thanks for your input!
Awesome..going crazy trying to figure out what was making that gosh awful noise on my 82 900f. Tore the starter motor out and removed the stator cover thinking maybe the gears were stripped. If it happens again maybe I'll risk drilling holes for the mod. Great video and thanks!
Glad to help :)
hi scott, thank you for teply you are very kind and brave...the cb 900 81 has the same mechanism i readed the upgrade that work fine from another followeer present in this video...
This is awesome. I'm going to try it on my 1980 GL1100 which is now making that noise you accurately duplicated for us twice😂 Ya, its embarrassing. I won't know for sure until I get into it, but i think Honda used the same starter clutch on a bunch of bikes, so my chances are good....
Hi Scott, great video. Can you verify if the exact Yamaha part number is 5SL-15590-00-00 or if not, give the correct one?
Yes, that would be the one.
@@Exit39gmail what is the correct part number for yamaha r6 bearing
just bought an 81 CB900C that may need this mod. Thanks!
Great video. My CB900 is a 1981 custom. Will this fix work for me? Looks like it will since all the parts appear to be the same. Thanks again.
I did that too, and I am very satisfied !!
I was ready to order this but I don't see how this will fix the thread issue. You're still using threads, except now it's 6 bolts that could potentially fail. Besides having more bearings for possibly a smoother start. There's still a very good chance you'll have to reopen this if you didn't clean the threads right.
Aside from the sprag being a better design, more bolts lessen the torque load on the assembly. Think of it like a 4 lug nut wheel being swapped for a 5 or 6 lug. Personally, I have not see this design fail yet.
Awesome idea. Working great. Thanks!
Does this upgrade leave a slight whirring noise coming from the R6 bearing? Wondering if it’s normal or I got a dud spare part.
Hello, will this work on the cb1100f - 1983 model?
Hi Scott, thank you for sharing! Do you have an OEM code of this part of r6? i'd like to make this upgrade , but firstly I want to know the tail first! thank you for your time
Lorenzo, search down in the comments I replied to someone a few years ago with a list of compatible comparables and part numbers.
Would this upgrade work on a 95 vfr 750 my is grinding so much it won't even start the engine
Man!, that´s a great mod. Thanks for sharing!
One correction I have is nomenclature - this is sprag one way clutch not bearing (the Yamaha part). Great upgrade BTW.
Yes, thank you. It was late and I was already fumbling for words, haha.
@@Exit39gmail Hey Scott I know this video is old but I have a CB 1100 F 1983 and it already has a bunch of holes in it and looks like I could just elongate the holes to match up with the new starter clutch it is not solid like the CB 900 any help would be appreciated thank you
I have a picture if you’d like me to send
yeah one question don't you know that thread locker should be put on and then torqued basically right away as it reacts with air to expand that's how it locks
also good habit to shake the bottle before use
Do you think this upgrade would work for an 82 honda cb650 standard?
Do you think an R6 starter clutch would fit a cb750k (soch)?
Scott did you use the yamaha 5SL-15590-00-00 or aftermarket, i have aftermarket and the bearing will not fit the hub cb900c also have a spare hub same thing, i also noticed that drilling the six holes in the flange has to be spot on if not the brass bushing in the center of the hub will wear out.... i drilled the holes to 3/8th...at least five thou will have to be taken off the hub flange, to get the bearing to fit...
The one I used is from a 2009. No aftermarket. According to another site I pulled this information from, these models use the 5SL-15590-00-00 starter clutch.
2003 R6 - YZFR6SRC STARTER
2003 YZFR6 - YZFR6R STARTER
2003 YZFR6 - YZFR6RC STARTER
2003 YZFR6 - YZFR6SR STARTER
2004 FZ6 - FZ600SS STARTER
2004 FZ6 - FZ600SSC STARTER
2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6S STARTER
2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6SC STARTER
2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6SCS STARTER
2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6SS STARTER
2005 FZ6 - FZ6ST STARTER
2005 FZ6 - FZS6T STARTER
2005 FZ6 - FZS6TC STARTER
2005 FZS6T_TC STARTER
2005 YZF-R6 - YZFR6T STARTER
2005 YZF-R6 - YZFR6TC STARTER
2006 FZ-6 - FZS6V STARTER
2006 FZ-6 - FZS6VC STARTER
2006 R6S - YZFR6SV STARTER
2006 R6S - YZFR6SVC STARTER
2007 FZ6 - FZS6W STARTER
2007 FZ6 - FZS6WC STARTER
2007 R6S - YZFR6SW STARTER
2007 R6S CA - YZFR6SWC STARTER
2008 FZ6 (BLACK METALLIC X) (CA ED.) - FZS6XBC STARTER
2008 FZ6 - FZS6XB STARTER
2008 FZ6 - FZS6XCB STARTER
2008 FZ6 - FZS6XCL STARTER
2008 FZ6 - FZS6XL STARTER
2008 R6S - YZFR6SXB STARTER
2008 R6S - YZFR6SXL STARTER
2008 R6S CA - YZFR6SXBC STARTER
2008 R6S CA - YZFR6SXLC STARTER
2008 YZF-R6S - YZFR6SXCB STARTER
2008 YZF-R6S - YZFR6SXCL STARTER
2009 FZ6 - FZS6YB STARTER
2009 FZ6 - FZS6YCB STARTER
2009 FZ6 - FZS6YCL STARTER
2009 FZ6 - FZS6YL STARTER
2009 FZ6R - FZ6RYB STARTER
2009 FZ6R - FZ6RYCB STARTER
2009 FZ6R - FZ6RYCL STARTER
2009 FZ6R - FZ6RYCW STARTER
2009 FZ6R - FZ6RYCY STARTER
2009 FZ6R - FZ6RYL STARTER
2009 FZ6R - FZ6RYW STARTER
2009 FZ6R - FZ6RYY STARTER
2009 YZFR6S - YZFR6SYB STARTER
2009 YZFR6S - YZFR6SYCB STARTER
2009 YZFR6S - YZFR6SYCL STARTER
2009 YZFR6S - YZFR6SYL STARTER
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZB STARTER
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZCL STARTER
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZCR STARTER
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZCW STARTER
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZL STARTER
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZR STARTER
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZW STARTER
2010 FZ6RZB_CB STARTER
2011 FZ6R - FZ6RAB STARTER
2011 FZ6R - FZ6RACB STARTER
2011 FZ6R - FZ6RACO STARTER
2011 FZ6R - FZ6RAO STARTER
2012 FZ6R - FZ6RBCB STARTER
2012 FZ6R - FZ6RBCW STARTER
2012 FZ6R - FZ6RBW STARTER
2012 FZ6RBB_RBCB STARTER
2013 FZ6R - FZ6RDCL STARTER
2013 FZ6R - FZ6RDCW STARTER
2013 FZ6R - FZ6RDL STARTER
2013 FZ6R - FZ6RDW STARTER
Very interesting work! One question: can I make the 6 holes by myself? can I use a normal drill or need a special tools? Thanks
You can use a regular drill. I should have video'd that process. Maybe next time as I have a CB750 waiting in the wings with the new starter clutch on the bench. :)
I know you probably don't know but is the CB900 starter clutch the same as the CB750 clutch? OI have a 1982 750c with what sounds like a worn or loose bolted clutch and would like to do this mod.
Getting ready to do this to my '81 CB750C. Does this mod require draining the oil? Want to make sure I have everything I need before I start.
Yes you will need to drop the oil.
Also advisable to get rid of any oil remnants on the sprag threads, use the proper loctite cleaning agent before applying the loctite.
that did sound like an alien
Hi. Thanks for the Video. The R6 sprag in the video is from an 09 model, as stated. Do you know what other R6 model years have the same assembly that will fit the CB900F?
According to another site I pulled this information from, these models use the 5SL-15590-00-00 starter clutch.
2003 R6 - YZFR6SRC STARTER
2003 YZFR6 - YZFR6R STARTER
2003 YZFR6 - YZFR6RC STARTER
2003 YZFR6 - YZFR6SR STARTER
2004 FZ6 - FZ600SS STARTER
2004 FZ6 - FZ600SSC STARTER
2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6S STARTER
2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6SC STARTER
2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6SCS STARTER
2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6SS STARTER
2005 FZ6 - FZ6ST STARTER
2005 FZ6 - FZS6T STARTER
2005 FZ6 - FZS6TC STARTER
2005 FZS6T_TC STARTER
2005 YZF-R6 - YZFR6T STARTER
2005 YZF-R6 - YZFR6TC STARTER
2006 FZ-6 - FZS6V STARTER
2006 FZ-6 - FZS6VC STARTER
2006 R6S - YZFR6SV STARTER
2006 R6S - YZFR6SVC STARTER
2007 FZ6 - FZS6W STARTER
2007 FZ6 - FZS6WC STARTER
2007 R6S - YZFR6SW STARTER
2007 R6S CA - YZFR6SWC STARTER
2008 FZ6 (BLACK METALLIC X) (CA ED.) - FZS6XBC STARTER
2008 FZ6 - FZS6XB STARTER
2008 FZ6 - FZS6XCB STARTER
2008 FZ6 - FZS6XCL STARTER
2008 FZ6 - FZS6XL STARTER
2008 R6S - YZFR6SXB STARTER
2008 R6S - YZFR6SXL STARTER
2008 R6S CA - YZFR6SXBC STARTER
2008 R6S CA - YZFR6SXLC STARTER
2008 YZF-R6S - YZFR6SXCB STARTER
2008 YZF-R6S - YZFR6SXCL STARTER
2009 FZ6 - FZS6YB STARTER
2009 FZ6 - FZS6YCB STARTER
2009 FZ6 - FZS6YCL STARTER
2009 FZ6 - FZS6YL STARTER
2009 FZ6R - FZ6RYB STARTER
2009 FZ6R - FZ6RYCB STARTER
2009 FZ6R - FZ6RYCL STARTER
2009 FZ6R - FZ6RYCW STARTER
2009 FZ6R - FZ6RYCY STARTER
2009 FZ6R - FZ6RYL STARTER
2009 FZ6R - FZ6RYW STARTER
2009 FZ6R - FZ6RYY STARTER
2009 YZFR6S - YZFR6SYB STARTER
2009 YZFR6S - YZFR6SYCB STARTER
2009 YZFR6S - YZFR6SYCL STARTER
2009 YZFR6S - YZFR6SYL STARTER
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZB STARTER
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZCL STARTER
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZCR STARTER
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZCW STARTER
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZL STARTER
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZR STARTER
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZW STARTER
2010 FZ6RZB_CB STARTER
2011 FZ6R - FZ6RAB STARTER
2011 FZ6R - FZ6RACB STARTER
2011 FZ6R - FZ6RACO STARTER
2011 FZ6R - FZ6RAO STARTER
2012 FZ6R - FZ6RBCB STARTER
2012 FZ6R - FZ6RBCW STARTER
2012 FZ6R - FZ6RBW STARTER
2012 FZ6RBB_RBCB STARTER
2013 FZ6R - FZ6RDCL STARTER
2013 FZ6R - FZ6RDCW STARTER
2013 FZ6R - FZ6RDL STARTER
2013 FZ6R - FZ6RDW STARTER
Most Excellent. Thank you.
which would be the cheapest? lol great info thanks
No maskin work? Perfect fit?
Is that 10mm bolt left or right thread to remove pulsar lobe and mechanical advance unit ?
Hi Scott!! I came across your tutorial late last year. Absolute genius Scott!!!!. Thank you very much for posting it. I have now obtained the parts to do the conversion, but would like your advice if you can provide it? I need help re. the measuring of the distance between the 6x holes on the bearing body and how you transcribe that measurement onto the (3 hole) locking plate to enable the 6x new holes to be drilled into it? Can you provide the following information 1) Am I correct in thinking the distance from the centre to centre of 2 of the opposing 6 holes is 750mm? 2) Is it critical that you use an 8mm drill piece to drill the holes, and must they align perfectly with the threaded holes on the bearing body (or is there some room for a little play - you mention that some people choose to extend the existing 3 holes on the locking plate to reach 3 of the tapped holes in the bearing body - this cannot be a very accurate method, surely?) 3) Would you recommend drilling exactly 8mm holes or can you use a slightly larger drill bit, for example a 9mm (if it is not critical to have the drilled holes in the locking plate the same size and perfectly aligned)? 4) How did you manage to accurately measure, locate and mark the new 6x drill points on the 3 hole locking plate (because of the central shaft on one side and flange on the other side - making it not flat - and being in the way)? 5) Is it possible to complete the drilling in a home workshop with ordinary workshop tools? Any help you can provide Scott would be greatly appreciated!!!! Many many thanks - John.
Hey John, thanks! I do want to make clear that I did not discover this. I only intended to offer my version and insight from another perspective. But I'm certainly glad it is of use! Anyway, I really did not measure the holes. Regarding "elongating the holes": @ 3:53 you can see when the three holes are lined up with the new assembly you could just elongate the holes by slotting them on the plate 'inward' so as to still use three attaching points. I chose to use all six. The best I can explain it is to measure the hole distances and inset from the edges on the R6 part, create a cardboard/paper template and using a compass transfer them to the Honda plate. I used a simple Harbor Freight drill press. Many of my tools are inexpensive as I'm not a shop and have little need for expensive tools that can be bashed on hour after hour, day after day and year after year. The hole size is not so critical and only needs to accommodate the bolt going through it and adequate seating area for the bolt head. The bolt size itself IS critical though. I hope some of this helps. It's been a while since I did this and I only did it once as it's documented here. I sold this bike shortly after this video.
Hi Scott! Good to hear from you mate! Your video was excellent by the way? After I sent my note last night - I figured a template out of stiff paper / cardboard would be the best route to take. I got new bolts from my Honda dealer which fit the Yam bearing body perfectly! My CB is going into the shop at Easter after the snow is gone to have a bank of refurbished carbs fitted (and also hopefully to have the new starter motor bits fitted at the same time only - if I get the holes drilled by then!). By the way have you seen the listings from 'headlesscycles' on US Ebay (from Oregon)? The trader has sold (sells) this conversion for $249? This seller states:
"The key to making a long lasting unit is to surface grind each gear so it meets the sprag manufacturer's specification for diameter and surface finish. Without surface grinding, the worn out surface of a used gear race and the out of spec diameter could lead to premature failure. The stock starter gear race is ~.004" too large for the sprag and if it were used as-is then it is nearly impossible to get the sprag onto the gear race without disassembling the unit. Even after removing .004" from the race, the sprag is difficult to mount so a bevel is machines onto each gear race. This facilitates assembly and prevents damage to the sprag due to the application of excessive side force".
Like you Scott, with a little practice I found the sprag easy to mount. Did you have any longevity problems by not removing the .004' from the race as stated in the sellers blurb above? and do you think this would cause any problems (excessive wear) in the long term?
Thanks again Scott! Your assistance is much appreciated. Regards - John.
great upgrade. I am going to do this upgrade because I also have a 900c that makes the same noise and won't turn over. buy I was wondering about the year the one you are using doesn't look like a 09 on the microphish it looks more like a 05. I'm not sure which one to order
Definitely from an '09. Send me the microfiche your looking at, exit39@gmail.com.
Yes, it should work.
Im having a heck of a time getting the r6 bearing around the CB 900 gear/sprocket without the center bearing popping out Any recommendations to make this easier. Mine is a 2001 R6 bearing...maybe it's bigger?
Update: I dremaled the size of the gear shaft to fit the bearing
Ok genius 😊 great upgrade, fantastic, however i am sure that the engines are the same for all models bike mentioned in this discussion...
Salvatore Fezza Then go for it :)
hi therefore can i upgrade and fix also my honda cb 750 kz 79 ?
I would like to say yes as Honda interchanges parts vastly among models. As I don't have experience with that model though, double check your measurements and confirm with the unit you intend to purchase (spline diameter, teeth, etc). And by all means, report your findings back here to keep others in the know.
What year r6 is that one way starter clutch?
if you were to measure the R6 starter gear race and the honda gear race that the spur clutch rides on, are they exactly the same diameter?
Is that advanced bolt reverse thread?
Hey mate, where did you get your r6 parts from? I've found the 09-15 model R6 has the same one way bearing and pressure plate so I'm just seeing where the best place to purchase them would be. I live in Australia.
I found mine on Ebay through stores.ebay.com/depowersportsparts/ . Try them, if not some other salvage dealers.
I can't seem to remove the center bolt on the advancer assembly. It won't budge at all. Do you have any advice on removing it? It's on a 1982 cb750sc with two previous owners, and I'm willing to bet that it has never been removed before. Silly question, is it a right hand thread where I just need to lefty-loosey it?
Id try tapping your wrench or ratchet with a hammer. Mine took quite a bit of force to break it free. Also, if your bike is on the stand chalk the wheel so it doesn't slip. P.S. its a lefty loosey righty tighty.
Justintm3 I was able to get it free with my impact drill. Thanks though
Blake Stone yea I was able to remove it with an impact drill.
On another note, maybe you know the answer to this next question. That clutch gear spins freely counterclockwise when it is on crank. I tightened down those 3 bolts and added some loc tite. It seems that the crank is supposed to be rotating CCW, which would make me believe that the clutch gear should spin freely CW and provide resistance (ie turning the crankshaft) CCW. thoughts?
Does anyone know what year R6 starter clutch fits the cb?
If the bolts have just backed out, can you tighten them while the cluth is on the the bike?
Yes. To reduce chances of them backing out again, thoroughly clean the threaded areas and apply thread locker. I'd advise at least removing the entire unit and checking for wear. The R6 swap is a fantastic upgrade though.
Hi. Any chans I can ask what year the R6 bearing is?
Regards Hans (sweden)
The one I used is from a 2009. According to another site I pulled this information from, these models use the 5SL-15590-00-00 starter clutch.
2003 R6 - YZFR6SRC STARTER
2003 YZFR6 - YZFR6R STARTER
2003 YZFR6 - YZFR6RC STARTER
2003 YZFR6 - YZFR6SR STARTER
2004 FZ6 - FZ600SS STARTER
2004 FZ6 - FZ600SSC STARTER
2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6S STARTER
2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6SC STARTER
2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6SCS STARTER
2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6SS STARTER
2005 FZ6 - FZ6ST STARTER
2005 FZ6 - FZS6T STARTER
2005 FZ6 - FZS6TC STARTER
2005 FZS6T_TC STARTER
2005 YZF-R6 - YZFR6T STARTER
2005 YZF-R6 - YZFR6TC STARTER
2006 FZ-6 - FZS6V STARTER
2006 FZ-6 - FZS6VC STARTER
2006 R6S - YZFR6SV STARTER
2006 R6S - YZFR6SVC STARTER
2007 FZ6 - FZS6W STARTER
2007 FZ6 - FZS6WC STARTER
2007 R6S - YZFR6SW STARTER
2007 R6S CA - YZFR6SWC STARTER
2008 FZ6 (BLACK METALLIC X) (CA ED.) - FZS6XBC STARTER
2008 FZ6 - FZS6XB STARTER
2008 FZ6 - FZS6XCB STARTER
2008 FZ6 - FZS6XCL STARTER
2008 FZ6 - FZS6XL STARTER
2008 R6S - YZFR6SXB STARTER
2008 R6S - YZFR6SXL STARTER
2008 R6S CA - YZFR6SXBC STARTER
2008 R6S CA - YZFR6SXLC STARTER
2008 YZF-R6S - YZFR6SXCB STARTER
2008 YZF-R6S - YZFR6SXCL STARTER
2009 FZ6 - FZS6YB STARTER
2009 FZ6 - FZS6YCB STARTER
2009 FZ6 - FZS6YCL STARTER
2009 FZ6 - FZS6YL STARTER
2009 FZ6R - FZ6RYB STARTER
2009 FZ6R - FZ6RYCB STARTER
2009 FZ6R - FZ6RYCL STARTER
2009 FZ6R - FZ6RYCW STARTER
2009 FZ6R - FZ6RYCY STARTER
2009 FZ6R - FZ6RYL STARTER
2009 FZ6R - FZ6RYW STARTER
2009 FZ6R - FZ6RYY STARTER
2009 YZFR6S - YZFR6SYB STARTER
2009 YZFR6S - YZFR6SYCB STARTER
2009 YZFR6S - YZFR6SYCL STARTER
2009 YZFR6S - YZFR6SYL STARTER
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZB STARTER
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZCL STARTER
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZCR STARTER
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZCW STARTER
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZL STARTER
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZR STARTER
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZW STARTER
2010 FZ6RZB_CB STARTER
2011 FZ6R - FZ6RAB STARTER
2011 FZ6R - FZ6RACB STARTER
2011 FZ6R - FZ6RACO STARTER
2011 FZ6R - FZ6RAO STARTER
2012 FZ6R - FZ6RBCB STARTER
2012 FZ6R - FZ6RBCW STARTER
2012 FZ6R - FZ6RBW STARTER
2012 FZ6RBB_RBCB STARTER
2013 FZ6R - FZ6RDCL STARTER
2013 FZ6R - FZ6RDCW STARTER
2013 FZ6R - FZ6RDL STARTER
2013 FZ6R - FZ6RDW STARTER
So I recently did this mod to my 750C and I am having a hard time getting the bike to start now (Turns over just fine but doesn't seem to want to actually light off). Just wondering, when doing the install of parts, does the advancer have to be applied in a specific way or is it simply just screw the main bolt in and tighten her down? Just trying to rule this out as a possibility.
Aside from this modification, have you checked your fuel delivery? Spark plugs/wires? Coils? Etc? Just another though. I've had completely unrelated parts go bad on these older bikes when I'm working on something else. Happens a lot. Anyway, to check your starter clutch work, make certain that the pin on the back of the spark advancer is not damaged, broken or missing AND that it is lined up with the slot on the crankshaft. Check that the spacer is installed and correctly. Double check the torque on the bolts holding the starter clutch assembly together. As well, check the installation of driven gears (small gears to upper right of the main drive gear).
yeah all the gears are lined up fine, used all your torque specs properly. it turns over fine and did fire once but after that it has given me issues sparking again. new plugs, dyna coils, and new carbs that are clean and jetted pretty close to stock which is what I need. Did the clutch mod since I did have one bolt back out on my stock unit. Thinking it's electrical. The starter solenoid was sparking a bit and wondering if that would rob the plugs of enough spark to fire even though the starter motor is spinning fast enough to turn the bike over
flip the new bearing over to the other side.
Where did you get the bolts from?
@@goodlaughproductions2076 8mm×125, 1". I got them at Ace Hardware, but I'm sure most hardware stores will have them.
Thanks 😎🛐
🤘
What year of r6?
What year R6 should the starter clutch be out of
Mike Lowry Mine was from an 09. I'm sure other years will work. I listed a reference somewhere as a response here; look through the replies.
Do you know what year R6 the starter clutch came out of? Definitely doing this upgrade on my 81 cb750k
Hey Zak. I used an 09. Other years work due to same design, just not sure when this design was implemented.
Scott Chapman thanks!
This Mod works on my 1979 CB750k DOHC, should work on your's too.
Thanks no mour prob
John
please read the follower fastlight61...and yuo will understund what i mean
Yes, FastLight61 used this process on his '81 CB900. My video is modifying my '82 CB900C. For your '79 CB750K it may be the same, but because I have not worked on one I don't want to say a definitive yes. I also have an '80 CB750F and it looks similar, but I have not performed this upgrade just yet.
I have 1982 honda cb650 I wanna know what other year or other bike can fit the starter clutch
Sorry man, I really don't know.