He Messed Up When He Built His DIY FENCE This Way...
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- Today we're reacting to another DIY fence build video. This one is a long build but there are some good and some bad. So in this video, I'll react to this DIY fence build and I'll give my critiques as a professional fence installer. Let's dig into it!
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I'm Joe Everest, The Fence Expert. On this channel, I'm going to teach you everything there is to know about fences. We're going to show you how to build a fence, everything about fence posts, different fence installation methods and much, much more. If you're wanting to become a fence builder, or if you're just trying to build a DIY fence, my channel will help you out. So subscribe and ring the bell icon, that way you don't miss any of my fence videos!
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I'd like to see more videos of you giving explanations while building a fence. I like your reactions but you should post one of you, personally building fences and gates.
You got a lot of companies don't know how to do fence an been doing them for a long time😂😂😂 1 pro fence in Alabama
I like the idea!
Fence in video looks great, worth it if it was any cheaper than paying someone else to do it.
Fences should follow the contour of the ground, the top is irrelevant unless you plan on custom cutting every board.
I think the fence looks great but I would use metal posts all around instead of wood posts, and rot boards (aka kick boards) on bottom of each section and gates. But that’s just me. If my fence comes out this good I’ll be very happy!
That was cheap for his big fence my fence for 42 feet was about $2200 for board on board cedar 6' 5.5'' and steel post and that was last month
i dont like the way he used the bracket on the gate post. its way better to overlap for the support of the gate. never eyeball the pickets!
Agreed on both!
Joe is there any way that I can talk to you? I need to ask a question about digging through massive root pods.
I refuse to pay 10k for a fence when i can get the materials for 4.5k and DIY. These prices are nuts!!
I agree
I paid a guy a down deposit and he ran with my money
@@shawannawilliams2221 Sorry to hear this. Never let a contractor get ahead of you on the money. If they are too broke to buy materials then you don't want them. You can reimburse them for materials after they are delivered, if you want but never before. If it's a big job then pay as you go, but never let them get ahead of you on the money.
I'm doing 6' x 244' pine privacy fence for a buddy and I charged him 6k.. 4k is in material alone. After my personal expenses for fuel, insurance, etc.. I'll make 1,500 for a long weeks work. He was quoted 12k for the lowest bid. I don't mind the work, and I don't need to make a killing, but I do have to make a living.
If you use post set dry pour method, use the commercial bags that are labeled as post set dry pour
Frost line depth, pfft... 18 inch rammed dirt no concrete, flashing tape wrap to prevent rot for a 3ft fence is fine. 6ft fences feel like you're in a shoebox.
Better than average DIY . I once saw picket reveal go from 8” to 24” along 100’ fence line. He ran rails level on a sloped line! Dry pack baby!
lol. I'm doing my fence now with post master type posts and I have very uneven ground and slopes, I ran a string from corner to corner and was like wth is this 8 ft tall nonsense, then it hit me to just run a string down and up to the next post with the elevation change and keep the rails and pickets the same height along the fence and it'll come out lookin like it's following the terrain, which is a pretty good look.
Dry is fine for fence definitely people that say otherwise are funny characters 😂 🇨🇦
The only thing to add... check underground utilities. Fiber lines cost a lot,
Great point!
Will they charge you if you mess it up?
@@Masticas. Yes. I found out the hard way. Just call 811 and they will mark all underground things to avoid for free.
They can but in my area things need to be downed to code depth. Your area may be different. That's the only way that you can get them to pay for it. If you've already called for locate, always important to call for locate the reason I know this is out of concrete work amongst other things@@Masticas.
Good to see your comments Joe. Glad that your input was helpful rather than to belittle the guy whose video you commented on. Many of us are very similar DIYers and some of us could not even do what he did. It is good to learn both from his video and your comments on what went right, and what can be done another way to improve it.
I agree, I think that is the part that made this video interesting. It's bad taste to ever bash another contractor or especially someone who claimed it to be DIY. Really awesome that he was able to comment suggestions on what to do different in a positive way.
I’ve been using Shawn kings dry packing method as of late. Been working really good for us👍
He’s got it figured out!
Have you been doing it without a concrete vibrateor? Been wanting to try it but don't want to invest in equipment I won't use...
@@reb0265 vibrator is total overkill unless you're setting at like 4' deep or something crazy.
This seems to be more of a video of a guy that likes hearing his own voice jab other guys work. I thought we were gonna build a fence?
Around here, in the Gulf South region, we don't have to worry about frost lines. We have to worry about water line, or rather water tables. In some areas, you can dig 2 to 3 feet down and be fine, and in other places, you only get 2 inches before the ground is saturated and your holes start to fill up with water. So, dry packing is typically how we do it, because you're going to get enough water in there anyway. But now, the Parish (county) is mandating that we no longer plant the 4x4 posts in the concrete. We are now suppose to pour footings and use the Galvanized Post Base or Post Connectors. They want the concrete to be at least one inch above the dirt/grass line when using the adjustable base with the 1 inch riser, or 2 inches if using the post base with the thin bottom and have a slight crest or angle so that water does not stand. Their ruling has several meaningful reasons; 1. the posts will not be sitting in water and rotting. 2. the posts will not rot at the dirt/grass line and snap off. 3. Should a storm or hurricane break a post, or termites damage the post, it is easier to remove the screws/bolts at the base and replace it. Also we will not have to deal with as much old concrete being thrown into the land fills, and we are using up too much of our land-fills too fast in this area. 4. It will cut down on the amount of new concrete being used/produced etc. The same thing goes for deck footings as well. Pretty much anything wood is not going into the ground any more, unless of course it is a pile that is being pounded down until it hits bedrock, but that's a different story all together.
examples:
www.homedepot.com/s/4x4%2520post%2520base?NCNI-5
www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-ABA-ZMAX-Galvanized-Adjustable-Standoff-Post-Base-for-6x6-Nominal-Lumber-ABA66Z/100375370
For setting the pickets, a piece of unistrut works great in place of a straight away
Great video! Looks like you saves me a world of hurt here... seen this guys videos and assumed he was on the level. 😊
Keep up the great content!
Been watching your videos like crazy. I am adding a 10' fence extension to once side of my fence (forward more on the house) with a gate. Went back and forth many times on hiring vs DIY but after so many delays just getting quotes I am hoping to give it a go myself. Fingers crossed- I do woodworking and a familiar with the tools at least but that outside stuff is a whole new ball game. haha - Honestly it will be wrestling the posts (I am 5') that will be my biggest hurdle
Take your time and you should be fine, the trouble a lot of folks get into is that they try and rush through the project.
Time for a follow up...how did it turn out? Did you bite the bullet and build it yourself or decide to hire it out? Hope it turned out great either way!
I also would like to know
Urination Station @ 4:08
😂 could be!
My frost line is 8 feet deep :)
People that make videos like the guy building the fence have no business making videos. The guy clearly has no idea what he is doing and the way he used that circular saw was extremely dangerous.
I've actually thought about doing the fence within a fence too. It's for dogs that like to bolt. Kinda like what you would find at a fenced dog park.
Great video man. As we offer wooden and simple privacy fences at our business. We build them all customs and don’t use pre built anymore since covid so this was very helpful.
Do you use a fence wholesaler to get your materials or do you use a big box store? I just started my fence company and am trying to find a wholesaler vs home depot but not having great luck yet.
@@Rwinnett2012for wood just go to your local lumber yard, for all other fence a simple Google search should at least point you in the right direction.
@@pl9915 I landed with a fence company who does wholesale and they have been amazing. Best move! Better quality, easy to work with and answer any questions I have, no matter how basic.
I wonder why stuff is so expensive?
(DEMOCRATS) 💸💸💸Bidenomics...Mr Potato Head & his cackling hyena.
Getting ready to build a fence myself. My biggest concern is that, just in a 65' run, I have massive changes in ground heights. I learned a couple things from your reaction of this video, so that helps. In my opinion, you can tell it's a DIY fence, but if mine turns out as well as his, I'll be happy with it.
When I have uneven ground, I run a string at the top. Then I put the pickets in line, but turn them over, so that the dog ears are on the ground, then I use the string to make a mark. I cut about 3/4 inch "above" (towards the dog eared portion) that line in order to give the necessary length so that the boards are not sitting on the ground, and then install the pickets. Hope this is clear enough.
@@jmackinjersey1 Pretty fab idea, I like it and that had not occurred to me. how do you use the string to mark the line? Chalk would be the usual way but you don't mention that. what you describe is a lot of extra work and I can see pros would not opt for your labor intensive method. First off you have to custom cut each picket. That right there is something a pro would avoid. Also you are basically building the fence twice, once upside down, then tear it all down, cut it all, and build it again. Pros can't afford that.
Screws instead of nails hold better overtime and easier to replace if need to also .
Is it better to put the 2x4 in front of the post or inside of the post with a brackets?
PS. Long time, like 2 weeks since I work and not a professional. That said, I'm 62 years old and have replaced all my fences in 3 different houses, they have turned out looking good and they are still up. Although, replacing one currently. I screwed up, some what. In trying to match the rails for my neighbor's side/benefit. The railing ended up more separated than I would have liked. Not real bad, should be fine, but I would have brought them closer. Lesson for next time, if I Ever build one again. Hoping not too, getting to old for this stuff...😂
question we attached the pickets to our 10 foot metal "farmers" fence with sheet metal screws . everything came out okay except it sags pretty bad now because our original posts were 4x4s and I guess 6x6 s is what's used but these 4x4s were already there. How can I get the sag out or alittle if possible? thanks
What can be done to fix the problem of the pickets too far above the top rail? I set my post too low and now the pickets are almost a foot above the top rail. I was thinking about nailing a 1x6 on both sides of the pickets but not sure. Any ideas? It's easy to spot a problem, harder to remedy it. Anybody know how to fix this without tearing the fence down?
I see absolutely nothing wrong with the fence. It is serving it purpose which is to vertically mark property boundaries and obscure view. I have built 4 fences and 3 gates around properties of mine only thing that has ever mattered to me is post depth and vertical straightness.
My Neighbor completed wood fence about 200 feet with post 18" deep after 2 years it started leaning toward my property and on my 4' chain link on my side of property line the sections that leaned over I just pushed them toward his property and they all just fell over post and all. Only about 40 feet of that fence is still standing.
Did my long backyard fence on my own. Just wanted to knock it out. The first picture you show is similar 😂. After hard work in my business and stressful day. When I see it I just laugh at it. I honestly don't do this with my customers but having slanted fence 🤣. My gf looks at it 🤨🙄😏 in other words fix it.
"dry casting concrete" seems amd exclusive US diy project phenomenon.
Yeah it "works" but you are taking quite a risk with its properties. There is a reaon wy the manufacturer puts on instruction labels.
Improper handling can make the concrete lose half its strength even if it fully cures, let one having uneven and partial curing.
For offense dry set is fine but not for actual footings for a deck or anything structural like that, for the most part is more than enough especially if you're using 42 inch depth of hole which includes an extra 6 in for the stone bottoms 🇨🇦
I love watching your videos and have been subscribed for a while now BUT the one thing your videos really don't teach is how to DIY a fence the right way. You say tips every videos but i want a video where it's all in one. I can appreciate you maybe not wanting to do this because it could potentially bring in less work for you but I don't think that would be the case. If anything, it will bring in more work cause people will mess up and then you'll have to tear down and re-do.
The guy in the original video keeps saying "redundant." I'm pretty sure he means "repetitive."
I am building fence from a salvage hand rail. I would to send you some e videos and pictures. I want no money, just want to spread some experience lol
Hi, I'm a new viewer. After several of your videos, they are interesting. I replaced a chain-link fence with one of these treated wood picket fences about 15 years ago. Around 140' of fence. One thing I did that I haven't seen, I layed the edge of a treated 2X12 on the ground and in most places it's in the ground for a good seal. The bottom of the pickets were attached to the 2X12. We have dogs that will take advantage of a gap. Of course, this was years ago when wood was cheaper and like you said, pickets were $1.63. I used a string to keep the picket level but, like you advised, I didn't touch the string. HOT TIP: To get the cemented metal post out (South Texas former farmland), I got a 4' piece of threaded 3/4" galvanized pipe and 2 1' threaded pieces. I put a "T" on one end of the long piece and a cap on the other. I drilled 3 3/16" holes, splayed out, in the cap. I put the 2 1' pieces on the "T" and caped one end and put a water valve and male hose fitting on the other end of the "T". Using hose water pressure, I could pull an old metal post, with the cement, out in around 45-60 seconds.
What do you recommend for a post to hold the hinge end of a 10' gate? It will be a cheap metal farm gate.
Hmm that' sounds interesting... I had a hell of a job pulling out a broken (rot) 6x6 fir post with a ton of concrete out of a deep hole ...using a jack all and a come along. It was murder... I like your idea better...!
One Nails down the line and then second nail if you put both Fasteners in the substrate at the same point you can't Flex it to places easy
Do you wear summer shorts ,t-shirt and tennis shoes for this project? And the the little area fenced off is for your Harley 🏍
As a professional in this industry what is your preferred material for fence pickets that provide durability, longevity, resistance to bowing and rot?
In our region the common choices are Treated Pine or Cedar, with cedar being the quality choice. That being said, I’ve heard great things about Redwood!
@@JoeEverest You haven't heard great things about the price of redwood.
@@TheLarryBrown very true, it doesn't make it this far inland so I have no idea how it's priced. That being said, there is often a corollary between price and quality in building materials.
Any building code require cement to be beneath the frostline why wouldnt a fence post footing
Anybody that uses a plastic level is not a professional!
I used a level for each 6-inch picket, in both directions: across the top, and up and down. I used 3 coated screws per picket.
Physics tells you couldn't pull that tight enough to get all the SAG out of it
I'm paying $10.00 per fifty pound bag here in Wy.
If u are right handed u should be nailing up from right to left
Handling the picket with left hand and using gun in right hand
In sydney Australia we sit on solid sandstone and many fences on near the beach are steep and undulated
With many posts core drilled
Into solid rock.
At top dog fencing we use and recommend steel posts
And always nail up using a string line pulled tight with pickets set at every second post to pronounce picket line angle changes
We call pickets on a standard fence, pailings and once they have a gap between them then u can call them pickets
Great points!
Quickly becoming a fan of this very informative and professional channel. Great content, thank you guys!!
Thank you so much! Welcome to the #fencefam!
What are the mistakes with a string line is he ran it too long between points
What is your tip/trick when the ground is tragically uneven from one side to the other…..like a 6”-8” drop-off from driveway onto lawn ?
depends on if you want the stepped look or you follow the terrain. I don't like the stepped look so I just set my posts all at the same height no matter how the terrain looked and set my rails to follow the slope up or down and then keep the pickets at the same height above the top rail and cut if necessary.
I've used screws to attach rail to post long enough to hold together until nailing off with ring shanked nails then remove screws for next set of rails
Sounds like a solid process!
@JoeEverest: Tried to follow your sponsor and got one order through for the Sharkbite hinges. However, we have been unable to get the frames for our contractor. Ozark fence company lets everything go to voicemail. On the rare occasion we can get through, they say they will put together a ship quote for the steel gate frames and still waiting to hear back. (Website won't ship to our location, otherwise.) Can you do anything to help? I bought these products over Memorial Day due to your videos and now I can't get the rest of the parts, My contractor is getting impatient; about to replace them with Home Depot junk!
That’s certainly odd! Email estimating@ozfence.com, I’ll let them know to expect an email!
I use a string line and never had a problem. I just make sure that at anytime the pickets are not touching the string. Only issue I've had is to be extra careful on windy days because the string line will move. Lastly, when I set up string ling. I make sure to set it up "tight" to avoid any possible sagging if it is set up for a long period of time.
The string line can also sag ever so slightly even if you pull it tight too.
Very informative break down.
Tape measure and level in your pocket at all times.
Agreed, I appreciate the feedback!
Fence looks great, but in time, those pickets will gnarl up on top. I need to replace my fence. I appreciate your videos. When I go to replace mine, it won’t be perfect, but hopefully will be better because you shared your knowledge.
Agreed, always happy to help! Let me know if I can help in any way!
I been dry packing for years, never had a post fail before its time. Also, when I board, I'll nail about 6 or 8 ot the tops, then come by and nail the bottome and middle rails, saves my back. A 2x6 on top of the post makes a quick guide, but can be quite sketchy, as it may fall on you while you are nailing.
I appreciate you sharing your experience!
19:30 So he thinks redundant means repetitive?
Hello is a reveal mandatory . Ya know like the pickets being all the way to top rail . Rather than leaving 6 inches . I want to put a board on top of it all and rail being at tool helps for adhering . Is a reveal mandatory for some reason . Thanks
At top not tool . Typo
Can you clarify the term “reveal.” Do you mean distance from 2x4 to the end of the picket?
Absolutely, great question! Yes, the reveal is the space between the horizontal rail and the edge of the picket, either the top of the picket or the bottom. Thanks for watching!
A year to late but the real reason they kiln dry the wood for over sea travel is not weight is mold/rot/bugs and any other type of wet sealed thing that can happen to lumber over what could be a weeks long trip. I worked for Canfor and we sent Japan lots of Jade Star lumber and heard the horror stories of a couple of are can were just a couple % to wet and ruined the entire load with mold
Woah, completely makes sense!
Fence in a fence was for a garbage enclosure.
What height do you prefer to set your bottom rails?
We like to keep the rails at 6” from each end of the picket and the center rail centered. Great question!
The last fence I did, we eyeballed the blanks, and we drank probably a 30 pack that day, me and my bother in law, and we did a hell of a lot better than that.
We recently paid, 4 dollars a picket for cedar pickets.
A fence within a fence.. fenception!!
I used 3 1/2" coated deck screws on some of the good ole "green" boards on a fence I build a couple years ago warped so hard it actually snapped some of the screws. Never thought of ring shank nails..🤔
Good Pod.
Question Joe; Living here in Glasgow, Scotland, GB and I am going to be re-doing the fence at the back end of the garden. With us getting such mixed weather, quite a good lot of rain... would it be a good idea to paint say 'bitumen' paint to the bottom say two and a half feet of each post to help prevent water penetration OR would I be better off buying concrete posts ?
I look forward to hearing from your good self as you know loads more about fencing than I do.
"Fence Ninja's" :)
I did it this way on some really uneven ground (cabin location):
1. used steel pipe posts and straps. Everything else was wood. ( I did have to rent a drill to make a hole in a giant underground boulder for one of the posts, and that more than justified the choice of steel. Obviously, cemented in ... but it (obviously) doesn't have to be squared up.
2. installed the bottom rail following the average ground contour as much as possible
3. installed the top rail
4. put in the pickets and let the tops run wild (there was quite a hump in one section)
5. installed the top rail
6. cut off the tops so everything was even
Edit: The gate latch was a problem because a normal gate latch didn't have anything to latch to. I settled for a 3/8" pipe within a 3/4" pipe to to pin the gate to the ground. That let me lift the pin from either side to open the gate.
Every time I left a post because it seemed like it was sturdy, I ended up regretting it.
Absolutely! Thanks for watching and weighing in!
Great video! Well done for DIY!
Agreed!
The reveal tip you gave is correct, nothing worse than twisted pickets because you exceed six inches from top of picket to top edge of horizontal.
Enjoyed your review !!!!!
Those prices were definitely 1.5 - 2 years ago when it came back down. I remember they were half that before 😷
Mr Fence straightaway is severely over priced. If you were a fence installer that could be "worth" it. But for DIY it is not even a consideration. You could build a DIY version with channel steel as thick as your pickets.
I (having lived overseas and talked to some shippers) am pretty sure the issue with import cedar is not weight, but volume. They charge by the container, and since the ship is floating, it's not a huge deal if one container is heavier than another.
That said, having all the containers on a 500 container ship be a couple thousand extra pounds, would limit how many containers it could handle, so maybe it would make it a 460 container ship? Each container also has a max weight, so maybe one stuffed with wet pickets would be over that. Also, traveling through hot areas, it's likely they'd mold, so that may be another factor
In most cases yes nails should work. However had to use screws after a professional installed. My 60 lb dog would jump off the fence to try to get higher towards a squirrel in a tree. A little game the dog and squirt played ended up pushing the boards off the posts after a few months.
Anything that may lower my property value is appreciated nowadays😂
Hello Joe, I'm about to start building a wood fence myself. Question, do I use screws for the fence or do I buy a nailer and use nails?
he did a good job...all of the mistakes that he did make, are ones we all have done has a beginner.... builders always push the limits
Oh I’ve seen far farrrr worse fences built by supposed professionals. You’d be shocked at the crap fence builds out there.
I found his video insightful as to what my DIY projects might realistically look like.....
He probably saved $8000. Doing it himself. Looks okay from my yard. 😅
I knew a guy who would set post eye level. I always talked S, one day he called me out, I trew a string line. It was on point, maybe one or two off, but only maybe 1/8-1/4 , if that. He would set a post:mark hole with digger and then site them back and forth with the post hole digger. He was an OG too. I learn so much from your videos
Thanks for the knowledge
Sid
wouldnt the reveal, the amount of the picket above the 2x4, just be personal preference?
Why does no one ever talk about when NOT to use a line level?
This guy runs his string for his pickets and uses a line level. But is that assuming the ground is perfectly level?
What if there is a slight slope? Or a steeper slope?
My fence had a short section at both ends and looks good its a hog wire panel fence so both short panels are numbers that result in the vertical wire lands centered on a post so multiples of 8" in our case
Pickets are $1.48 at Lowe’s by me. We are healing 😂
Seeing the chain linked fencing on the other side must've meant it was the next door neighbor's, orhwerise I would assume it would've been removed.
I know 6x6 posts cost more but if the posts are the first thing to fail seems to be the thing to do. We put in 6x6 corner posts for wire field fence. Wanted those puppies to last. Going to be replacing the field fence with pickets over a period of time so we can set the posts one year and finish the rest the next year.
2x4x8s are usually 8’ 1/4” so you’d have to cut them all anyway. 7:00
Do some metal fences.
I would’ve put the top stud as high as possible on the 4x4 and raised the pickets higher off the ground .
You said that you do not recommend reusing wooden posts. Is that the same case for metal posts?
It's a blind for an a/c or garbage. Say it with me ...... a BLIND.
Posts can last 2x as long as pickets a lot of times in my area because the UV is hell on pickets. But it still can be a gamble compared to replacing the posts.
the neighbor behind me built a privacy fence, with the unfinished side facing towards me, and the rails are completely crooked and not even close to level.... so they get to look at the pickets of a nice fence, and I have to look at a stupid crooked mess...
For safety use a table saw lol😂 in my opinion they're more dangerous than a circular saw
How much would you bid a job like this with 200+ feet
(Materials + Labor) x 2
How do you remove fence cut off metal fence posts that was NOT cut below ground?
In the U.K. the posts would be set 6ft apart with 12ft x 1.5ins x 4ins rails with the mid rail starting with a half length so that the rails dont all join on one post. You are right string lines DO sag no matter how tight they are and pushing the palings up to the string can easily distort the top line.
13:51 Why would you put a privacy fence next to another privacy fence? The normal thing to do would be talk with that neighbor about butting up against theirs. Pretty sure most people would be fine with that rather then create a maintenance nightmare between the two fences.