I'd like to see more videos of you giving explanations while building a fence. I like your reactions but you should post one of you, personally building fences and gates.
@@shawannawilliams2221 Sorry to hear this. Never let a contractor get ahead of you on the money. If they are too broke to buy materials then you don't want them. You can reimburse them for materials after they are delivered, if you want but never before. If it's a big job then pay as you go, but never let them get ahead of you on the money.
I'm doing 6' x 244' pine privacy fence for a buddy and I charged him 6k.. 4k is in material alone. After my personal expenses for fuel, insurance, etc.. I'll make 1,500 for a long weeks work. He was quoted 12k for the lowest bid. I don't mind the work, and I don't need to make a killing, but I do have to make a living.
@@PersonalStash420while I do see your perspective, Contractors have contract in the job title. Always receive a copy of a signed contract or estimate approval with verified company information. No matter the company or job size, a business floating material cost due to change of mind or direction is not efficient for cash flow as a business. Imagine a good small business floating $20k unnecessarily.
Good to see your comments Joe. Glad that your input was helpful rather than to belittle the guy whose video you commented on. Many of us are very similar DIYers and some of us could not even do what he did. It is good to learn both from his video and your comments on what went right, and what can be done another way to improve it.
I agree, I think that is the part that made this video interesting. It's bad taste to ever bash another contractor or especially someone who claimed it to be DIY. Really awesome that he was able to comment suggestions on what to do different in a positive way.
lol. I'm doing my fence now with post master type posts and I have very uneven ground and slopes, I ran a string from corner to corner and was like wth is this 8 ft tall nonsense, then it hit me to just run a string down and up to the next post with the elevation change and keep the rails and pickets the same height along the fence and it'll come out lookin like it's following the terrain, which is a pretty good look.
Hi, I'm a new viewer. After several of your videos, they are interesting. I replaced a chain-link fence with one of these treated wood picket fences about 15 years ago. Around 140' of fence. One thing I did that I haven't seen, I layed the edge of a treated 2X12 on the ground and in most places it's in the ground for a good seal. The bottom of the pickets were attached to the 2X12. We have dogs that will take advantage of a gap. Of course, this was years ago when wood was cheaper and like you said, pickets were $1.63. I used a string to keep the picket level but, like you advised, I didn't touch the string. HOT TIP: To get the cemented metal post out (South Texas former farmland), I got a 4' piece of threaded 3/4" galvanized pipe and 2 1' threaded pieces. I put a "T" on one end of the long piece and a cap on the other. I drilled 3 3/16" holes, splayed out, in the cap. I put the 2 1' pieces on the "T" and caped one end and put a water valve and male hose fitting on the other end of the "T". Using hose water pressure, I could pull an old metal post, with the cement, out in around 45-60 seconds. What do you recommend for a post to hold the hinge end of a 10' gate? It will be a cheap metal farm gate.
Hmm that' sounds interesting... I had a hell of a job pulling out a broken (rot) 6x6 fir post with a ton of concrete out of a deep hole ...using a jack all and a come along. It was murder... I like your idea better...!
Around here, in the Gulf South region, we don't have to worry about frost lines. We have to worry about water line, or rather water tables. In some areas, you can dig 2 to 3 feet down and be fine, and in other places, you only get 2 inches before the ground is saturated and your holes start to fill up with water. So, dry packing is typically how we do it, because you're going to get enough water in there anyway. But now, the Parish (county) is mandating that we no longer plant the 4x4 posts in the concrete. We are now suppose to pour footings and use the Galvanized Post Base or Post Connectors. They want the concrete to be at least one inch above the dirt/grass line when using the adjustable base with the 1 inch riser, or 2 inches if using the post base with the thin bottom and have a slight crest or angle so that water does not stand. Their ruling has several meaningful reasons; 1. the posts will not be sitting in water and rotting. 2. the posts will not rot at the dirt/grass line and snap off. 3. Should a storm or hurricane break a post, or termites damage the post, it is easier to remove the screws/bolts at the base and replace it. Also we will not have to deal with as much old concrete being thrown into the land fills, and we are using up too much of our land-fills too fast in this area. 4. It will cut down on the amount of new concrete being used/produced etc. The same thing goes for deck footings as well. Pretty much anything wood is not going into the ground any more, unless of course it is a pile that is being pounded down until it hits bedrock, but that's a different story all together. examples: www.homedepot.com/s/4x4%2520post%2520base?NCNI-5 www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-ABA-ZMAX-Galvanized-Adjustable-Standoff-Post-Base-for-6x6-Nominal-Lumber-ABA66Z/100375370
Getting ready to build a fence myself. My biggest concern is that, just in a 65' run, I have massive changes in ground heights. I learned a couple things from your reaction of this video, so that helps. In my opinion, you can tell it's a DIY fence, but if mine turns out as well as his, I'll be happy with it.
When I have uneven ground, I run a string at the top. Then I put the pickets in line, but turn them over, so that the dog ears are on the ground, then I use the string to make a mark. I cut about 3/4 inch "above" (towards the dog eared portion) that line in order to give the necessary length so that the boards are not sitting on the ground, and then install the pickets. Hope this is clear enough.
@@jmackinjersey1 Pretty fab idea, I like it and that had not occurred to me. how do you use the string to mark the line? Chalk would be the usual way but you don't mention that. what you describe is a lot of extra work and I can see pros would not opt for your labor intensive method. First off you have to custom cut each picket. That right there is something a pro would avoid. Also you are basically building the fence twice, once upside down, then tear it all down, cut it all, and build it again. Pros can't afford that.
They can but in my area things need to be downed to code depth. Your area may be different. That's the only way that you can get them to pay for it. If you've already called for locate, always important to call for locate the reason I know this is out of concrete work amongst other things@@Masticas.
I knew a guy who would set post eye level. I always talked S, one day he called me out, I trew a string line. It was on point, maybe one or two off, but only maybe 1/8-1/4 , if that. He would set a post:mark hole with digger and then site them back and forth with the post hole digger. He was an OG too. I learn so much from your videos Thanks for the knowledge Sid
I did it this way on some really uneven ground (cabin location): 1. used steel pipe posts and straps. Everything else was wood. ( I did have to rent a drill to make a hole in a giant underground boulder for one of the posts, and that more than justified the choice of steel. Obviously, cemented in ... but it (obviously) doesn't have to be squared up. 2. installed the bottom rail following the average ground contour as much as possible 3. installed the top rail 4. put in the pickets and let the tops run wild (there was quite a hump in one section) 5. installed the top rail 6. cut off the tops so everything was even Edit: The gate latch was a problem because a normal gate latch didn't have anything to latch to. I settled for a 3/8" pipe within a 3/4" pipe to to pin the gate to the ground. That let me lift the pin from either side to open the gate.
I've used screws to attach rail to post long enough to hold together until nailing off with ring shanked nails then remove screws for next set of rails
When i set my fence, and i probably didnt do it correctly, i put the cement out in dry and compacted it every few inches. I let the ground wet the cement. It lasted for years until a hurricane came through and dropped a few trees on it.
I (having lived overseas and talked to some shippers) am pretty sure the issue with import cedar is not weight, but volume. They charge by the container, and since the ship is floating, it's not a huge deal if one container is heavier than another. That said, having all the containers on a 500 container ship be a couple thousand extra pounds, would limit how many containers it could handle, so maybe it would make it a 460 container ship? Each container also has a max weight, so maybe one stuffed with wet pickets would be over that. Also, traveling through hot areas, it's likely they'd mold, so that may be another factor
Great video man. As we offer wooden and simple privacy fences at our business. We build them all customs and don’t use pre built anymore since covid so this was very helpful.
Do you use a fence wholesaler to get your materials or do you use a big box store? I just started my fence company and am trying to find a wholesaler vs home depot but not having great luck yet.
@@Rwinnett2012for wood just go to your local lumber yard, for all other fence a simple Google search should at least point you in the right direction.
@@pl9915 I landed with a fence company who does wholesale and they have been amazing. Best move! Better quality, easy to work with and answer any questions I have, no matter how basic.
Good Pod. Question Joe; Living here in Glasgow, Scotland, GB and I am going to be re-doing the fence at the back end of the garden. With us getting such mixed weather, quite a good lot of rain... would it be a good idea to paint say 'bitumen' paint to the bottom say two and a half feet of each post to help prevent water penetration OR would I be better off buying concrete posts ? I look forward to hearing from your good self as you know loads more about fencing than I do.
I know 6x6 posts cost more but if the posts are the first thing to fail seems to be the thing to do. We put in 6x6 corner posts for wire field fence. Wanted those puppies to last. Going to be replacing the field fence with pickets over a period of time so we can set the posts one year and finish the rest the next year.
question we attached the pickets to our 10 foot metal "farmers" fence with sheet metal screws . everything came out okay except it sags pretty bad now because our original posts were 4x4s and I guess 6x6 s is what's used but these 4x4s were already there. How can I get the sag out or alittle if possible? thanks
I used 3 1/2" coated deck screws on some of the good ole "green" boards on a fence I build a couple years ago warped so hard it actually snapped some of the screws. Never thought of ring shank nails..🤔
I use a string line and never had a problem. I just make sure that at anytime the pickets are not touching the string. Only issue I've had is to be extra careful on windy days because the string line will move. Lastly, when I set up string ling. I make sure to set it up "tight" to avoid any possible sagging if it is set up for a long period of time.
In our region the common choices are Treated Pine or Cedar, with cedar being the quality choice. That being said, I’ve heard great things about Redwood!
@@TheLarryBrown very true, it doesn't make it this far inland so I have no idea how it's priced. That being said, there is often a corollary between price and quality in building materials.
Fence looks great, but in time, those pickets will gnarl up on top. I need to replace my fence. I appreciate your videos. When I go to replace mine, it won’t be perfect, but hopefully will be better because you shared your knowledge.
I been dry packing for years, never had a post fail before its time. Also, when I board, I'll nail about 6 or 8 ot the tops, then come by and nail the bottome and middle rails, saves my back. A 2x6 on top of the post makes a quick guide, but can be quite sketchy, as it may fall on you while you are nailing.
My fence had a short section at both ends and looks good its a hog wire panel fence so both short panels are numbers that result in the vertical wire lands centered on a post so multiples of 8" in our case
Posts can last 2x as long as pickets a lot of times in my area because the UV is hell on pickets. But it still can be a gamble compared to replacing the posts.
PS. Long time, like 2 weeks since I work and not a professional. That said, I'm 62 years old and have replaced all my fences in 3 different houses, they have turned out looking good and they are still up. Although, replacing one currently. I screwed up, some what. In trying to match the rails for my neighbor's side/benefit. The railing ended up more separated than I would have liked. Not real bad, should be fine, but I would have brought them closer. Lesson for next time, if I Ever build one again. Hoping not too, getting to old for this stuff...😂
I'm in the process of doing a fence for my daughter's house We are doing 250 liner feet. We ran into some know issues - a large pine tree. Being a woodworker I did not want to harm this tree - its about 3 feet in diameter and 125 feet tall and straight as an arrow. Lot of good lumber some day. The other know issue(s) is a 3-4 feet slope from the back yard down to the house over a short distance. Yes towards the house. That's the way they rolled in the 1870's. So from the back corner of the garage to the back of the property line, across the property to the other side of the property line and up to the house there is about a 6 foot change in elevation. Started off with panels but changed to pickets.
Been watching your videos like crazy. I am adding a 10' fence extension to once side of my fence (forward more on the house) with a gate. Went back and forth many times on hiring vs DIY but after so many delays just getting quotes I am hoping to give it a go myself. Fingers crossed- I do woodworking and a familiar with the tools at least but that outside stuff is a whole new ball game. haha - Honestly it will be wrestling the posts (I am 5') that will be my biggest hurdle
Time for a follow up...how did it turn out? Did you bite the bullet and build it yourself or decide to hire it out? Hope it turned out great either way!
Recently installed a little over 200 feet of new treated pine privacy fence. Pickets were $1.96 for 5.5"x6' BTW. Yard was fairly even so I used a transit to establish my top rail level around the entire yard, set the bottom rail 6" off the ground, and put the center rail exactly between them. I used a block to maintain a 4" reveal at the top and trimmed the bottoms to follow the ground.
In the U.K. the posts would be set 6ft apart with 12ft x 1.5ins x 4ins rails with the mid rail starting with a half length so that the rails dont all join on one post. You are right string lines DO sag no matter how tight they are and pushing the palings up to the string can easily distort the top line.
Thank you for breaking down this video. It is incredibly helpful. In reference to the moisture content, I live in a very dry climate but it does snow here. Any additional recommendations on moisture content on the boards before installing such as percent on a moisture meter. Should I leave the lumber sitting on my back porch for a few days to acclimate before installing?
I think the fence looks great but I would use metal posts all around instead of wood posts, and rot boards (aka kick boards) on bottom of each section and gates. But that’s just me. If my fence comes out this good I’ll be very happy!
How big of a gap would you leave for the kiln dried pickets? I was debating on vertical vs horizontal fence and staining pine pockets because the cost of cedar and how hard it is to get it
Kiln dried you would actually want to leave a 1/4” or so between the pickets. A lot of the import/kiln dried boards are having issues with swelling and buckling.
In most cases yes nails should work. However had to use screws after a professional installed. My 60 lb dog would jump off the fence to try to get higher towards a squirrel in a tree. A little game the dog and squirt played ended up pushing the boards off the posts after a few months.
For offense dry set is fine but not for actual footings for a deck or anything structural like that, for the most part is more than enough especially if you're using 42 inch depth of hole which includes an extra 6 in for the stone bottoms 🇨🇦
Hello is a reveal mandatory . Ya know like the pickets being all the way to top rail . Rather than leaving 6 inches . I want to put a board on top of it all and rail being at tool helps for adhering . Is a reveal mandatory for some reason . Thanks
If u are right handed u should be nailing up from right to left Handling the picket with left hand and using gun in right hand In sydney Australia we sit on solid sandstone and many fences on near the beach are steep and undulated With many posts core drilled Into solid rock. At top dog fencing we use and recommend steel posts And always nail up using a string line pulled tight with pickets set at every second post to pronounce picket line angle changes We call pickets on a standard fence, pailings and once they have a gap between them then u can call them pickets
What do you recommend in terms of maintenance? Like do you recommend a coating or sealer after it goes up and then if so how often to reapply? Also do you recommend putting the fence in the middle of some sort of dirt zone so it's easier to edge and mow? Thanks for the video commentary. I work in healthcare and we do the same thing where we watch how others do things and offer useful commentary. You do an even better job where when something should be done differently you are constructive and not snarky but where there's nothing set in stone and it's a matter of personal preference in the method you mention that too!
Staining will maintain the color of the fence, but I don't think much more than that. Just my opinion. I think your best move for maintenance is to make sure the base of your posts are clean. That is, make sure there's not a bunch of debris like leaves or grass up against it keeping the wood wet and making it rot faster.
Thanks for your video, Joe. I have a couple of questions for you. I'm going to DIY and replace pickets and rails on a 152 ft section of our fence. We have metal posts mounted in concrete and connected together with a strip footing. The posts are straight and solid. I'm retired and trying to save some money by using pine pickets and rails. If I get treated pine or apply a stain, will they not hold up over time or do I need to bite the bullet and get cedar only? If I follow your picket reveal rule, will that help prevent the pine from warping or is it a waste of money using pine instead of cedar? I'm 76 and if the pine last 10 to 15 years, I'd be happy. I appreciate any help you can give me. Gary
The issue isn’t really will it last, the posts are typically what need replaced and you already have that covered. Staining the pickets with a quality oil-based stain will help them to look great for years, in addition to helping to prevent them from warping and twisting!
Two things I would do differently is I would not reuse existing 4x4's, helped my dad with his new fence and it failed on the section with reused 4x4's after 5yrs. The other is make a move able jig to keep slates the same height string moves with wind
depends on if you want the stepped look or you follow the terrain. I don't like the stepped look so I just set my posts all at the same height no matter how the terrain looked and set my rails to follow the slope up or down and then keep the pickets at the same height above the top rail and cut if necessary.
I am replacing an old fence. It’s likely going to be terrible getting the old posts out. What are the thoughts on doing 10’ sections? This would save posts and concrete, plus make it easier to avoid the old posts (flush cut the ones that aren’t rotten).
I've done 10' sections but I doubled up the 2×4s top and bottom and left a 1/4" gap between the pickets to let the wind through. That's in south eastern New Mexico and it's windy as hell but the ground is hard caliche. I used 4×4 posts in the ground 24". If the ground is soft where your at I'd definitely go with 6×6s and go down 30" or more if there's poor drainage. If you go with 4×4s I'd suggest 6×6s on the corners. Hope this helps.
Tar wood posts and set in dry aggregate or tar in a way to make concrete a mould for the next post when it need replacement. Or use steel lifetime posts
@@JoeEverest PostSaver ? Is that basically ice and water shield? Seems legit. I have replaced too many treated or cedar posts and took your advice to build with hidden steel posts ( Like the posts on the highway reflectors 😉).
love this guy as a fence expert. Have watched quite a few of his videos. Very informative. Just hated him when he was the pittsburgh steelers quarterback. haha
Question, when quoting a customer to do a femce, how much do you quote per foot just the installation part?? I am about to finish up a fence for a neighbor who already paid a crew to install a fence just like one in this video, they got all the posts in and then the horizontal 2x4s up and roughky 50 foot of the slats installed then they dipped out on her, so if they did everything that they got done so far correct then ill only be installing the slats, somewhere in the range of 350 feet of it to do, but since she already oaid that forst crew i want to quote her a good price to help her out, any information on how i shoukd quote her would be appreciated, thank you!!!
If she already has purchased and has wood onsite, I'd just do it time and any material (+10%). Guesstimate how many hours you think you can finish in and add 10 more just in case you want to give her a flat #. I hope she didn't pay them in full.
What can be done to fix the problem of the pickets too far above the top rail? I set my post too low and now the pickets are almost a foot above the top rail. I was thinking about nailing a 1x6 on both sides of the pickets but not sure. Any ideas? It's easy to spot a problem, harder to remedy it. Anybody know how to fix this without tearing the fence down?
I have uneven ground and would really like to have a stone retainer wall to make the actual fence even all of the way around the yard. I think a few loads of dirt to level the yard a little bit where it needs it would really make it so much easier to mow. I have been gathering leaves from a few neighbors to start a compost mound. Have you ever installed a 6 foot wooden or composite privacy fence this way?
Hi Joe is it always best and smart to put the post 2 feet deep not one. What is the best way to correct a poor 1 foot post on the entire fence. What can I do.
Did my long backyard fence on my own. Just wanted to knock it out. The first picture you show is similar 😂. After hard work in my business and stressful day. When I see it I just laugh at it. I honestly don't do this with my customers but having slanted fence 🤣. My gf looks at it 🤨🙄😏 in other words fix it.
Absolutely, great question! Yes, the reveal is the space between the horizontal rail and the edge of the picket, either the top of the picket or the bottom. Thanks for watching!
Frost line depth, pfft... 18 inch rammed dirt no concrete, flashing tape wrap to prevent rot for a 3ft fence is fine. 6ft fences feel like you're in a shoebox.
I built a 40" long jig that rides along the top 2x4 then you push the plank up to the jig where it hangs out at 6" above the top rail. Works for slopes as well. I also pre drill my 2x4s and use 3.5" stainless screws. End cut sealer on rails and posts if not getting stained.
I use a rubber sealant on the bottom 2 ft of my posts which gets buried in concrete below grade to keep them from prematurely rotting. Do to the poor quality of lumber nowadays your 4x4s inevitably check split after installation which creates paths for water to get in and start rotting out the posts. I flex seal my posts.
I use a rubber sealant on the bottom 2 ft of my posts which gets buried in concrete below grade to keep them from prematurely rotting. Do to the poor quality of lumber nowadays your 4x4s inevitably check split after installation which creates paths for water to get in and start rotting out the posts. I flex seal my posts.
I use a rubber sealant on the bottom 2 ft of my posts which gets buried in concrete below grade to keep them from prematurely rotting. Do to the poor quality of lumber nowadays your 4x4s inevitably check split after installation which creates paths for water to get in and start rotting out the posts. I flex seal my posts.
I use a rubber sealant on the bottom 2 ft of my posts which gets buried in concrete below grade to keep them from prematurely rotting. Do to the poor quality of lumber nowadays your 4x4s inevitably check split after installation which creates paths for water to get in and start rotting out the posts. I flex seal my posts.
I just wonder why they put the rail side on the inside, and also, why did they leave a space/gap between the other fences? Why didn't they use the fence of the rear neighbor's house as their own fence?
Because it’s courtesy to always put the rail line towards ownership and the pretty side OUT to your neighbors. SOP per my dad who was a contractor. He also states by putting rails inside it a security issue, someone wanting to peek over into your yard looking for freebies has a much more difficult time with the slick side out, as opposed to have a “lift up” on the rails if they were outside.
just bought a house last year and the fence was not done right.. im in the north east and no concrete.. and only 2ft holes.. i am working on getting a new fence done.. and done right lol
@@JoeEverest it does. i have posts that have snapped so the fence is leaning in different directions. So the next wind storm will easily knock it down.
Myself, something I have done for decades, I don't buy 8' 2x4's,I've had my guy's buy 941/4,so 16's fit better for hauling, bags are just more mobile on the job,one quirk that's not for everyone is I drill and screw my frame with powder coated square drive screws,no rust and usually no spilting,then plated ringshanks,
the neighbor behind me built a privacy fence, with the unfinished side facing towards me, and the rails are completely crooked and not even close to level.... so they get to look at the pickets of a nice fence, and I have to look at a stupid crooked mess...
"when shipping from overseas they're dry in a kiln to reduce weight" - I assume there's also a degree of protection from bugs/microorganisms too - sterilization benefits from kiln drying?
16' rails, stagger joints on every other post. Stronger, faster, more level, less cutting than 8' rails. Also if you have section that is a bit over 8' it is no problem.
@@JoeEverest I've never seen anyone mention 16' 2x4s but it has so many advantages. Also cutting for gates, short sections etc leaves less waste than cutting 8 footers. Also fewer butt seams look cleaner to my eye (I know, they usually get covered) and you get less "segmented" panels from post to post. Also you only hang (space horizontally) the rails every other post so it's much faster. The picket gauge board slides over 16' instead of possible resetting it every 8' so the top looks more level over the longer distance. Of course, you can still do an 8' section if you need to but not vice versa. Run a video on it or maybe I'll send you one.
I'd like to see more videos of you giving explanations while building a fence. I like your reactions but you should post one of you, personally building fences and gates.
You got a lot of companies don't know how to do fence an been doing them for a long time😂😂😂 1 pro fence in Alabama
I like the idea!
Fence in video looks great, worth it if it was any cheaper than paying someone else to do it.
I refuse to pay 10k for a fence when i can get the materials for 4.5k and DIY. These prices are nuts!!
I agree
I paid a guy a down deposit and he ran with my money
@@shawannawilliams2221 Sorry to hear this. Never let a contractor get ahead of you on the money. If they are too broke to buy materials then you don't want them. You can reimburse them for materials after they are delivered, if you want but never before. If it's a big job then pay as you go, but never let them get ahead of you on the money.
I'm doing 6' x 244' pine privacy fence for a buddy and I charged him 6k.. 4k is in material alone. After my personal expenses for fuel, insurance, etc.. I'll make 1,500 for a long weeks work. He was quoted 12k for the lowest bid. I don't mind the work, and I don't need to make a killing, but I do have to make a living.
@@PersonalStash420while I do see your perspective, Contractors have contract in the job title. Always receive a copy of a signed contract or estimate approval with verified company information. No matter the company or job size, a business floating material cost due to change of mind or direction is not efficient for cash flow as a business.
Imagine a good small business floating $20k unnecessarily.
Good to see your comments Joe. Glad that your input was helpful rather than to belittle the guy whose video you commented on. Many of us are very similar DIYers and some of us could not even do what he did. It is good to learn both from his video and your comments on what went right, and what can be done another way to improve it.
I agree, I think that is the part that made this video interesting. It's bad taste to ever bash another contractor or especially someone who claimed it to be DIY. Really awesome that he was able to comment suggestions on what to do different in a positive way.
If you use post set dry pour method, use the commercial bags that are labeled as post set dry pour
Better than average DIY . I once saw picket reveal go from 8” to 24” along 100’ fence line. He ran rails level on a sloped line! Dry pack baby!
lol. I'm doing my fence now with post master type posts and I have very uneven ground and slopes, I ran a string from corner to corner and was like wth is this 8 ft tall nonsense, then it hit me to just run a string down and up to the next post with the elevation change and keep the rails and pickets the same height along the fence and it'll come out lookin like it's following the terrain, which is a pretty good look.
Dry is fine for fence definitely people that say otherwise are funny characters 😂 🇨🇦
Hi, I'm a new viewer. After several of your videos, they are interesting. I replaced a chain-link fence with one of these treated wood picket fences about 15 years ago. Around 140' of fence. One thing I did that I haven't seen, I layed the edge of a treated 2X12 on the ground and in most places it's in the ground for a good seal. The bottom of the pickets were attached to the 2X12. We have dogs that will take advantage of a gap. Of course, this was years ago when wood was cheaper and like you said, pickets were $1.63. I used a string to keep the picket level but, like you advised, I didn't touch the string. HOT TIP: To get the cemented metal post out (South Texas former farmland), I got a 4' piece of threaded 3/4" galvanized pipe and 2 1' threaded pieces. I put a "T" on one end of the long piece and a cap on the other. I drilled 3 3/16" holes, splayed out, in the cap. I put the 2 1' pieces on the "T" and caped one end and put a water valve and male hose fitting on the other end of the "T". Using hose water pressure, I could pull an old metal post, with the cement, out in around 45-60 seconds.
What do you recommend for a post to hold the hinge end of a 10' gate? It will be a cheap metal farm gate.
Hmm that' sounds interesting... I had a hell of a job pulling out a broken (rot) 6x6 fir post with a ton of concrete out of a deep hole ...using a jack all and a come along. It was murder... I like your idea better...!
Around here, in the Gulf South region, we don't have to worry about frost lines. We have to worry about water line, or rather water tables. In some areas, you can dig 2 to 3 feet down and be fine, and in other places, you only get 2 inches before the ground is saturated and your holes start to fill up with water. So, dry packing is typically how we do it, because you're going to get enough water in there anyway. But now, the Parish (county) is mandating that we no longer plant the 4x4 posts in the concrete. We are now suppose to pour footings and use the Galvanized Post Base or Post Connectors. They want the concrete to be at least one inch above the dirt/grass line when using the adjustable base with the 1 inch riser, or 2 inches if using the post base with the thin bottom and have a slight crest or angle so that water does not stand. Their ruling has several meaningful reasons; 1. the posts will not be sitting in water and rotting. 2. the posts will not rot at the dirt/grass line and snap off. 3. Should a storm or hurricane break a post, or termites damage the post, it is easier to remove the screws/bolts at the base and replace it. Also we will not have to deal with as much old concrete being thrown into the land fills, and we are using up too much of our land-fills too fast in this area. 4. It will cut down on the amount of new concrete being used/produced etc. The same thing goes for deck footings as well. Pretty much anything wood is not going into the ground any more, unless of course it is a pile that is being pounded down until it hits bedrock, but that's a different story all together.
examples:
www.homedepot.com/s/4x4%2520post%2520base?NCNI-5
www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-ABA-ZMAX-Galvanized-Adjustable-Standoff-Post-Base-for-6x6-Nominal-Lumber-ABA66Z/100375370
Getting ready to build a fence myself. My biggest concern is that, just in a 65' run, I have massive changes in ground heights. I learned a couple things from your reaction of this video, so that helps. In my opinion, you can tell it's a DIY fence, but if mine turns out as well as his, I'll be happy with it.
When I have uneven ground, I run a string at the top. Then I put the pickets in line, but turn them over, so that the dog ears are on the ground, then I use the string to make a mark. I cut about 3/4 inch "above" (towards the dog eared portion) that line in order to give the necessary length so that the boards are not sitting on the ground, and then install the pickets. Hope this is clear enough.
@@jmackinjersey1 Pretty fab idea, I like it and that had not occurred to me. how do you use the string to mark the line? Chalk would be the usual way but you don't mention that. what you describe is a lot of extra work and I can see pros would not opt for your labor intensive method. First off you have to custom cut each picket. That right there is something a pro would avoid. Also you are basically building the fence twice, once upside down, then tear it all down, cut it all, and build it again. Pros can't afford that.
Screws instead of nails hold better overtime and easier to replace if need to also .
Quickly becoming a fan of this very informative and professional channel. Great content, thank you guys!!
Thank you so much! Welcome to the #fencefam!
For setting the pickets, a piece of unistrut works great in place of a straight away
I've actually thought about doing the fence within a fence too. It's for dogs that like to bolt. Kinda like what you would find at a fenced dog park.
The only thing to add... check underground utilities. Fiber lines cost a lot,
Great point!
Will they charge you if you mess it up?
@@Masticas. Yes. I found out the hard way. Just call 811 and they will mark all underground things to avoid for free.
They can but in my area things need to be downed to code depth. Your area may be different. That's the only way that you can get them to pay for it. If you've already called for locate, always important to call for locate the reason I know this is out of concrete work amongst other things@@Masticas.
I’ve been using Shawn kings dry packing method as of late. Been working really good for us👍
He’s got it figured out!
Have you been doing it without a concrete vibrateor? Been wanting to try it but don't want to invest in equipment I won't use...
@@reb0265 vibrator is total overkill unless you're setting at like 4' deep or something crazy.
Great video! Looks like you saves me a world of hurt here... seen this guys videos and assumed he was on the level. 😊
Keep up the great content!
I knew a guy who would set post eye level. I always talked S, one day he called me out, I trew a string line. It was on point, maybe one or two off, but only maybe 1/8-1/4 , if that. He would set a post:mark hole with digger and then site them back and forth with the post hole digger. He was an OG too. I learn so much from your videos
Thanks for the knowledge
Sid
I used a level for each 6-inch picket, in both directions: across the top, and up and down. I used 3 coated screws per picket.
I did it this way on some really uneven ground (cabin location):
1. used steel pipe posts and straps. Everything else was wood. ( I did have to rent a drill to make a hole in a giant underground boulder for one of the posts, and that more than justified the choice of steel. Obviously, cemented in ... but it (obviously) doesn't have to be squared up.
2. installed the bottom rail following the average ground contour as much as possible
3. installed the top rail
4. put in the pickets and let the tops run wild (there was quite a hump in one section)
5. installed the top rail
6. cut off the tops so everything was even
Edit: The gate latch was a problem because a normal gate latch didn't have anything to latch to. I settled for a 3/8" pipe within a 3/4" pipe to to pin the gate to the ground. That let me lift the pin from either side to open the gate.
I've used screws to attach rail to post long enough to hold together until nailing off with ring shanked nails then remove screws for next set of rails
Sounds like a solid process!
When i set my fence, and i probably didnt do it correctly, i put the cement out in dry and compacted it every few inches. I let the ground wet the cement. It lasted for years until a hurricane came through and dropped a few trees on it.
I (having lived overseas and talked to some shippers) am pretty sure the issue with import cedar is not weight, but volume. They charge by the container, and since the ship is floating, it's not a huge deal if one container is heavier than another.
That said, having all the containers on a 500 container ship be a couple thousand extra pounds, would limit how many containers it could handle, so maybe it would make it a 460 container ship? Each container also has a max weight, so maybe one stuffed with wet pickets would be over that. Also, traveling through hot areas, it's likely they'd mold, so that may be another factor
Great video man. As we offer wooden and simple privacy fences at our business. We build them all customs and don’t use pre built anymore since covid so this was very helpful.
Do you use a fence wholesaler to get your materials or do you use a big box store? I just started my fence company and am trying to find a wholesaler vs home depot but not having great luck yet.
@@Rwinnett2012for wood just go to your local lumber yard, for all other fence a simple Google search should at least point you in the right direction.
@@pl9915 I landed with a fence company who does wholesale and they have been amazing. Best move! Better quality, easy to work with and answer any questions I have, no matter how basic.
Good Pod.
Question Joe; Living here in Glasgow, Scotland, GB and I am going to be re-doing the fence at the back end of the garden. With us getting such mixed weather, quite a good lot of rain... would it be a good idea to paint say 'bitumen' paint to the bottom say two and a half feet of each post to help prevent water penetration OR would I be better off buying concrete posts ?
I look forward to hearing from your good self as you know loads more about fencing than I do.
I know 6x6 posts cost more but if the posts are the first thing to fail seems to be the thing to do. We put in 6x6 corner posts for wire field fence. Wanted those puppies to last. Going to be replacing the field fence with pickets over a period of time so we can set the posts one year and finish the rest the next year.
question we attached the pickets to our 10 foot metal "farmers" fence with sheet metal screws . everything came out okay except it sags pretty bad now because our original posts were 4x4s and I guess 6x6 s is what's used but these 4x4s were already there. How can I get the sag out or alittle if possible? thanks
Is it better to put the 2x4 in front of the post or inside of the post with a brackets?
I used 3 1/2" coated deck screws on some of the good ole "green" boards on a fence I build a couple years ago warped so hard it actually snapped some of the screws. Never thought of ring shank nails..🤔
I use a string line and never had a problem. I just make sure that at anytime the pickets are not touching the string. Only issue I've had is to be extra careful on windy days because the string line will move. Lastly, when I set up string ling. I make sure to set it up "tight" to avoid any possible sagging if it is set up for a long period of time.
The string line can also sag ever so slightly even if you pull it tight too.
As a professional in this industry what is your preferred material for fence pickets that provide durability, longevity, resistance to bowing and rot?
In our region the common choices are Treated Pine or Cedar, with cedar being the quality choice. That being said, I’ve heard great things about Redwood!
@@JoeEverest You haven't heard great things about the price of redwood.
@@TheLarryBrown very true, it doesn't make it this far inland so I have no idea how it's priced. That being said, there is often a corollary between price and quality in building materials.
Fence looks great, but in time, those pickets will gnarl up on top. I need to replace my fence. I appreciate your videos. When I go to replace mine, it won’t be perfect, but hopefully will be better because you shared your knowledge.
Agreed, always happy to help! Let me know if I can help in any way!
I been dry packing for years, never had a post fail before its time. Also, when I board, I'll nail about 6 or 8 ot the tops, then come by and nail the bottome and middle rails, saves my back. A 2x6 on top of the post makes a quick guide, but can be quite sketchy, as it may fall on you while you are nailing.
I appreciate you sharing your experience!
Hello Joe, I'm about to start building a wood fence myself. Question, do I use screws for the fence or do I buy a nailer and use nails?
The reveal tip you gave is correct, nothing worse than twisted pickets because you exceed six inches from top of picket to top edge of horizontal.
My fence had a short section at both ends and looks good its a hog wire panel fence so both short panels are numbers that result in the vertical wire lands centered on a post so multiples of 8" in our case
Posts can last 2x as long as pickets a lot of times in my area because the UV is hell on pickets. But it still can be a gamble compared to replacing the posts.
PS. Long time, like 2 weeks since I work and not a professional. That said, I'm 62 years old and have replaced all my fences in 3 different houses, they have turned out looking good and they are still up. Although, replacing one currently. I screwed up, some what. In trying to match the rails for my neighbor's side/benefit. The railing ended up more separated than I would have liked. Not real bad, should be fine, but I would have brought them closer. Lesson for next time, if I Ever build one again. Hoping not too, getting to old for this stuff...😂
I'm in the process of doing a fence for my daughter's house We are doing 250 liner feet. We ran into some know issues - a large pine tree. Being a woodworker I did not want to harm this tree - its about 3 feet in diameter and 125 feet tall and straight as an arrow. Lot of good lumber some day. The other know issue(s) is a 3-4 feet slope from the back yard down to the house over a short distance. Yes towards the house. That's the way they rolled in the 1870's. So from the back corner of the garage to the back of the property line, across the property to the other side of the property line and up to the house there is about a 6 foot change in elevation. Started off with panels but changed to pickets.
Hello what kind of nail gun is good for fence ??
Fences should follow the contour of the ground, the top is irrelevant unless you plan on custom cutting every board.
Been watching your videos like crazy. I am adding a 10' fence extension to once side of my fence (forward more on the house) with a gate. Went back and forth many times on hiring vs DIY but after so many delays just getting quotes I am hoping to give it a go myself. Fingers crossed- I do woodworking and a familiar with the tools at least but that outside stuff is a whole new ball game. haha - Honestly it will be wrestling the posts (I am 5') that will be my biggest hurdle
Take your time and you should be fine, the trouble a lot of folks get into is that they try and rush through the project.
Time for a follow up...how did it turn out? Did you bite the bullet and build it yourself or decide to hire it out? Hope it turned out great either way!
I also would like to know
Recently installed a little over 200 feet of new treated pine privacy fence. Pickets were $1.96 for 5.5"x6' BTW. Yard was fairly even so I used a transit to establish my top rail level around the entire yard, set the bottom rail 6" off the ground, and put the center rail exactly between them. I used a block to maintain a 4" reveal at the top and trimmed the bottoms to follow the ground.
Sounds like a solid fence!
In the U.K. the posts would be set 6ft apart with 12ft x 1.5ins x 4ins rails with the mid rail starting with a half length so that the rails dont all join on one post. You are right string lines DO sag no matter how tight they are and pushing the palings up to the string can easily distort the top line.
Thank you for breaking down this video. It is incredibly helpful. In reference to the moisture content, I live in a very dry climate but it does snow here. Any additional recommendations on moisture content on the boards before installing such as percent on a moisture meter. Should I leave the lumber sitting on my back porch for a few days to acclimate before installing?
I think the fence looks great but I would use metal posts all around instead of wood posts, and rot boards (aka kick boards) on bottom of each section and gates. But that’s just me. If my fence comes out this good I’ll be very happy!
I always do my top 2x4 flat on top of the 4x4 post with the other two 2x4s cut to the inside and toe nailed into place.
I live up north I've never seen frost heaving i think it is soil type dependent
You said that you do not recommend reusing wooden posts. Is that the same case for metal posts?
How big of a gap would you leave for the kiln dried pickets? I was debating on vertical vs horizontal fence and staining pine pockets because the cost of cedar and how hard it is to get it
Kiln dried you would actually want to leave a 1/4” or so between the pickets. A lot of the import/kiln dried boards are having issues with swelling and buckling.
Would you recommend using 17 gauge round steel post for a 7ft wood fence? Or would I have to shorten my distance between posts and add more?
We would have posts spaced at 6’ intervals and use either a 20 weight posts or a postmaster post.
In most cases yes nails should work. However had to use screws after a professional installed. My 60 lb dog would jump off the fence to try to get higher towards a squirrel in a tree. A little game the dog and squirt played ended up pushing the boards off the posts after a few months.
One Nails down the line and then second nail if you put both Fasteners in the substrate at the same point you can't Flex it to places easy
For offense dry set is fine but not for actual footings for a deck or anything structural like that, for the most part is more than enough especially if you're using 42 inch depth of hole which includes an extra 6 in for the stone bottoms 🇨🇦
Hello is a reveal mandatory . Ya know like the pickets being all the way to top rail . Rather than leaving 6 inches . I want to put a board on top of it all and rail being at tool helps for adhering . Is a reveal mandatory for some reason . Thanks
At top not tool . Typo
Urination Station @ 4:08
😂 could be!
If u are right handed u should be nailing up from right to left
Handling the picket with left hand and using gun in right hand
In sydney Australia we sit on solid sandstone and many fences on near the beach are steep and undulated
With many posts core drilled
Into solid rock.
At top dog fencing we use and recommend steel posts
And always nail up using a string line pulled tight with pickets set at every second post to pronounce picket line angle changes
We call pickets on a standard fence, pailings and once they have a gap between them then u can call them pickets
Great points!
Very informative break down.
What do you recommend in terms of maintenance? Like do you recommend a coating or sealer after it goes up and then if so how often to reapply? Also do you recommend putting the fence in the middle of some sort of dirt zone so it's easier to edge and mow?
Thanks for the video commentary. I work in healthcare and we do the same thing where we watch how others do things and offer useful commentary. You do an even better job where when something should be done differently you are constructive and not snarky but where there's nothing set in stone and it's a matter of personal preference in the method you mention that too!
Staining will maintain the color of the fence, but I don't think much more than that. Just my opinion. I think your best move for maintenance is to make sure the base of your posts are clean. That is, make sure there's not a bunch of debris like leaves or grass up against it keeping the wood wet and making it rot faster.
My frost line is 8 feet deep :)
Thanks for your video, Joe. I have a couple of questions for you. I'm going to DIY and replace pickets and rails on a 152 ft section of our fence. We have metal posts mounted in concrete and connected together with a strip footing. The posts are straight and solid. I'm retired and trying to save some money by using pine pickets and rails. If I get treated pine or apply a stain, will they not hold up over time or do I need to bite the bullet and get cedar only? If I follow your picket reveal rule, will that help prevent the pine from warping or is it a waste of money using pine instead of cedar? I'm 76 and if the pine last 10 to 15 years, I'd be happy.
I appreciate any help you can give me.
Gary
The issue isn’t really will it last, the posts are typically what need replaced and you already have that covered. Staining the pickets with a quality oil-based stain will help them to look great for years, in addition to helping to prevent them from warping and twisting!
@@JoeEverest Thanks Joe. I really appreciate your help!
Two things I would do differently is I would not reuse existing 4x4's, helped my dad with his new fence and it failed on the section with reused 4x4's after 5yrs. The other is make a move able jig to keep slates the same height string moves with wind
Agreed on both!
What is your tip/trick when the ground is tragically uneven from one side to the other…..like a 6”-8” drop-off from driveway onto lawn ?
depends on if you want the stepped look or you follow the terrain. I don't like the stepped look so I just set my posts all at the same height no matter how the terrain looked and set my rails to follow the slope up or down and then keep the pickets at the same height above the top rail and cut if necessary.
I am replacing an old fence. It’s likely going to be terrible getting the old posts out. What are the thoughts on doing 10’ sections? This would save posts and concrete, plus make it easier to avoid the old posts (flush cut the ones that aren’t rotten).
Have you found any info?
I've done 10' sections but I doubled up the 2×4s top and bottom and left a 1/4" gap between the pickets to let the wind through. That's in south eastern New Mexico and it's windy as hell but the ground is hard caliche. I used 4×4 posts in the ground 24". If the ground is soft where your at I'd definitely go with 6×6s and go down 30" or more if there's poor drainage. If you go with 4×4s I'd suggest 6×6s on the corners. Hope this helps.
@@stevesmith2171 perfect, thanks for the help
Tar wood posts and set in dry aggregate or tar in a way to make concrete a mould for the next post when it need replacement.
Or use steel lifetime posts
A third option would be a purpose-made product such as PostSaver.
@@JoeEverest PostSaver ? Is that basically ice and water shield? Seems legit. I have replaced too many treated or cedar posts and took your advice to build with hidden steel posts ( Like the posts on the highway reflectors 😉).
It is, it actually seals to the post itself in addition to the sleeve.
What height do you prefer to set your bottom rails?
We like to keep the rails at 6” from each end of the picket and the center rail centered. Great question!
love this guy as a fence expert. Have watched quite a few of his videos. Very informative. Just hated him when he was the pittsburgh steelers quarterback. haha
😂😂😂
Tape measure and level in your pocket at all times.
Agreed, I appreciate the feedback!
Gotta love my 5" frost line.
That would definitely be nice!
This is Awesome! I’m learning a great deal. Thanks!
Very welcome, always happy to help! Thanks for watching!
Question, when quoting a customer to do a femce, how much do you quote per foot just the installation part?? I am about to finish up a fence for a neighbor who already paid a crew to install a fence just like one in this video, they got all the posts in and then the horizontal 2x4s up and roughky 50 foot of the slats installed then they dipped out on her, so if they did everything that they got done so far correct then ill only be installing the slats, somewhere in the range of 350 feet of it to do, but since she already oaid that forst crew i want to quote her a good price to help her out, any information on how i shoukd quote her would be appreciated, thank you!!!
If she already has purchased and has wood onsite, I'd just do it time and any material (+10%). Guesstimate how many hours you think you can finish in and add 10 more just in case you want to give her a flat #. I hope she didn't pay them in full.
What can be done to fix the problem of the pickets too far above the top rail? I set my post too low and now the pickets are almost a foot above the top rail. I was thinking about nailing a 1x6 on both sides of the pickets but not sure. Any ideas? It's easy to spot a problem, harder to remedy it. Anybody know how to fix this without tearing the fence down?
I have uneven ground and would really like to have a stone retainer wall to make the actual fence even all of the way around the yard. I think a few loads of dirt to level the yard a little bit where it needs it would really make it so much easier to mow. I have been gathering leaves from a few neighbors to start a compost mound. Have you ever installed a 6 foot wooden or composite privacy fence this way?
You gotta worry about drainage, you don't want to turn your yard into a reservoir by blocking the runoff spots.
How do you remove fence cut off metal fence posts that was NOT cut below ground?
Do you wear summer shorts ,t-shirt and tennis shoes for this project? And the the little area fenced off is for your Harley 🏍
Hi Joe is it always best and smart to put the post 2 feet deep not one. What is the best way to correct a poor 1 foot post on the entire fence. What can I do.
I would’ve put the top stud as high as possible on the 4x4 and raised the pickets higher off the ground .
Did my long backyard fence on my own. Just wanted to knock it out. The first picture you show is similar 😂. After hard work in my business and stressful day. When I see it I just laugh at it. I honestly don't do this with my customers but having slanted fence 🤣. My gf looks at it 🤨🙄😏 in other words fix it.
I found his video insightful as to what my DIY projects might realistically look like.....
Do you need three rails or will two suffice?
For 6’ fence you really need three rails to give the pickets proper structure.
Any building code require cement to be beneath the frostline why wouldnt a fence post footing
2x4x8s are usually 8’ 1/4” so you’d have to cut them all anyway. 7:00
I wonder why stuff is so expensive?
(DEMOCRATS) 💸💸💸Bidenomics...Mr Potato Head & his cackling hyena.
Can you clarify the term “reveal.” Do you mean distance from 2x4 to the end of the picket?
Absolutely, great question! Yes, the reveal is the space between the horizontal rail and the edge of the picket, either the top of the picket or the bottom. Thanks for watching!
Frost line depth, pfft... 18 inch rammed dirt no concrete, flashing tape wrap to prevent rot for a 3ft fence is fine. 6ft fences feel like you're in a shoebox.
Sacrete, maximizer or fastcrete. Which do use most often and why? Thanks.
Sakrete on standard projects, fast-setting for small projects or repairs that can be completed within a day.
@@JoeEverest I use maximizer. It is twice the cost but I like that it has a higher psi.
I built a 40" long jig that rides along the top 2x4 then you push the plank up to the jig where it hangs out at 6" above the top rail. Works for slopes as well. I also pre drill my 2x4s and use 3.5" stainless screws. End cut sealer on rails and posts if not getting stained.
Nice, sounds like a very solid process! I appreciate you sharing it!
I use a rubber sealant on the bottom 2 ft of my posts which gets buried in concrete below grade to keep them from prematurely rotting. Do to the poor quality of lumber nowadays your 4x4s inevitably check split after installation which creates paths for water to get in and start rotting out the posts. I flex seal my posts.
I use a rubber sealant on the bottom 2 ft of my posts which gets buried in concrete below grade to keep them from prematurely rotting. Do to the poor quality of lumber nowadays your 4x4s inevitably check split after installation which creates paths for water to get in and start rotting out the posts. I flex seal my posts.
I use a rubber sealant on the bottom 2 ft of my posts which gets buried in concrete below grade to keep them from prematurely rotting. Do to the poor quality of lumber nowadays your 4x4s inevitably check split after installation which creates paths for water to get in and start rotting out the posts. I flex seal my posts.
I use a rubber sealant on the bottom 2 ft of my posts which gets buried in concrete below grade to keep them from prematurely rotting. Do to the poor quality of lumber nowadays your 4x4s inevitably check split after installation which creates paths for water to get in and start rotting out the posts. I flex seal my posts.
What is the ideal measurement off the top from the (2x4) for pickets with a rot board on bottom?
We like a 6” reveal!
I just wonder why they put the rail side on the inside, and also, why did they leave a space/gap between the other fences? Why didn't they use the fence of the rear neighbor's house as their own fence?
Because it’s courtesy to always put the rail line towards ownership and the pretty side OUT to your neighbors.
SOP per my dad who was a contractor.
He also states by putting rails inside it a security issue, someone wanting to peek over into your yard looking for freebies has a much more difficult time with the slick side out, as opposed to have a “lift up” on the rails if they were outside.
Those prices were definitely 1.5 - 2 years ago when it came back down. I remember they were half that before 😷
just bought a house last year and the fence was not done right.. im in the north east and no concrete.. and only 2ft holes.. i am working on getting a new fence done.. and done right lol
Ah man, that definitely stinks!
@@JoeEverest it does. i have posts that have snapped so the fence is leaning in different directions. So the next wind storm will easily knock it down.
Trick to using the string line is only touch the hairs of the string with the board.
Great show. Thank you!
Very welcome, always happy to help!
Myself, something I have done for decades, I don't buy 8' 2x4's,I've had my guy's buy 941/4,so 16's fit better for hauling, bags are just more mobile on the job,one quirk that's not for everyone is I drill and screw my frame with powder coated square drive screws,no rust and usually no spilting,then plated ringshanks,
I appreciate you sharing your experience!
Square drive is lousy. It won't grip the bit and it slips, just like Phillips. Torx works better and fulfills the promise of a positive engagement.
What is 941/4 and what are 16s? Do you mean 16 foot 2x4s instead of 8 foot?
I guess you should use whatever you want,I seemed to manage quite well, who's to say,you like pink I like red, just a preference.
Great video! Well done for DIY!
Agreed!
the neighbor behind me built a privacy fence, with the unfinished side facing towards me, and the rails are completely crooked and not even close to level.... so they get to look at the pickets of a nice fence, and I have to look at a stupid crooked mess...
"when shipping from overseas they're dry in a kiln to reduce weight" - I assume there's also a degree of protection from bugs/microorganisms too - sterilization benefits from kiln drying?
Absolutely
🤣🤣”for safety’s sake”
Great tips.
You should see the fence I built out of old hollow core mahogany door's.
I bet it’s awesome!
dry pack works good on chin link.
16' rails, stagger joints on every other post. Stronger, faster, more level, less cutting than 8' rails. Also if you have section that is a bit over 8' it is no problem.
Fair point, I appreciate you sharing your experience!
@@JoeEverest I've never seen anyone mention 16' 2x4s but it has so many advantages. Also cutting for gates, short sections etc leaves less waste than cutting 8 footers. Also fewer butt seams look cleaner to my eye (I know, they usually get covered) and you get less "segmented" panels from post to post. Also you only hang (space horizontally) the rails every other post so it's much faster. The picket gauge board slides over 16' instead of possible resetting it every 8' so the top looks more level over the longer distance. Of course, you can still do an 8' section if you need to but not vice versa. Run a video on it or maybe I'll send you one.
16ft 2x4 are less stable
@@Al-sq5ti Interesting. How so?
Typically you don't want to touch the string line. You want to leave a 1/16 or 1/32 gap
💯