1993 Jeep XJ 4.6L short block assembly
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- Опубліковано 20 бер 2022
- It's all coming together on our 1993 Jeep XJ 4.0L engine. We've done the math, done the machining, ordered all the parts we need, and restored what we didn't need. There are no excuses left, it's time to start putting things back together. As always though things rarely go as smoothly as you'd like, but that's no surprise to Davin. He's ready to problem solve and get this Jeep back on the road.
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*DAVIN!*
These episodes are too dang short anymore, man. I know there's all sorts of guides and algorithms and such
advising channels on how long to make episodic content on YT and all, but these just feel rushed and short anymore.
*This is the best show on Hagerty* , not to mention on YT in general - how about some more of it?
Thanks,
- Ed on the Ridge
Hey Hagerty - the walls of the garage (assembly room) look a little bare. Maybe have your graphic folks look back in the image archives and find some memorable RedLine Rebuild cars and have them printed in large format and create some Hagerty Art for the shop walls. Like a historical reference of the previous shop work. Maybe swap in new images based on popularity of the videos. Even simple images of the shop truck would be cool. Maybe a large oversized print of Tom Cotters smiling face...? A Cotter photo would be super funny even if it was just put up for when he visits.
Add to that a section of wall to display all the Rock Auto magnets?
Big facts.
And Hagerty - I may have a shot of Tom with a huge smile on his face - met Tom at SEMA 2019 and had my photo taken with him. Hit me up if you need an image…
No Love it the way it is Clean and Slick ! It has real Classy look ❤️
My late Dad used to say - and repeat - "A day without learning something you did'nt know is a wasted day."
Well thanks to you Daven, this 69 y.o. guy learned something new today. Again ! 😊
I had a local machinist cut the spacer from an old harmonic balancer. The 87-90 4.2s in the YJs had the short-snout 4-weight crankshaft.
It is always fascinating watching you build out the blocks.
Nice as always. A man that loves his craft is a joy to watch and learn from.
been working on my 37. I have the engine and transmission mounted, Radiator is in and hoses made. I installed the cab and front fenders and yesterday I found the hinges that have been stored for 35 years and got the doors hung. Now it's off to the Hot Rod Institute for new firewall and floor pans.
FYI, the 4.2L predates the 4.0L by a lot of years. The 4.2L, then known as the 258, debuted in 1970.
Other camera creep at 7:45 - hilarious to me. It's like "Hey what are you doing here?"
When I was a kid back in the early 60s, I use to help my dad when he rebuilt the old 225 Slant Six and the old 292 Y-Block and he had a large can he poured a quart of oil into and he placed the piston into it so the Wrist Pin and Rings were well oiled while he was installing the previous soaked piston. I have done that with every engine I re-built/refreshed since then from old lawn mower engines to the 392 I installed into my 75 Scout II.
That’s how my dad taught me. I treated my stuff with respect because I had to earn my things and burning rubber standing in one spot wasting rubber I just hate that but I love ground pounding torque.
Thank You !
Fits like a glove.
This is coming along great!! Can't wait to see the whole thing all together! Great video!!
Awesome to the max. Every time I watch your vids I feel like I am in school as I always learn something about something I didn't know before! Cheers from Toronto!
Was thinking this morning when the new update will be!
Beautiful work.
I appreciate you. Thank you.
Pro tip, before replacing a pilot bushing put it in a freezer first, it will go in much easier.
I work on chinese motorcycle engines all the time that's my Job, I just installed a top end, and I got the inspiration to get the things done thanks to you Sir Davin Reckow a gentleman and a true American.
Love the Classy Look of the shop ❤️ Clean Neat & No Clutter 👍 Don’t mess with the look it’s Magic 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
The very last (rotating) shot proves my point that the camera guys on theses videos are ethereal, supernatural beings. I knew it from the start, it's too good to be done by mere humans!
Nice Build.
Exciting stuff! Everything is literally coming together! Lookin' good; I can't wait to hear it fire!✌️❤️🙂🇨🇦
8:21 they added that 1/4 inch because the 4.2L has V-belts and for two V-belts you need more than one rib, so covering the damper on the 4.2L is another V-belt pulley that slides on and is secured with a key of its own on the crankshaft and that washer & bolt. Thus the need for people building strokers to have that snout trimmed aka a nose job 😅. Hope that helps
Great video. Very helpful for my own upcoming build.
"Ask me how I know" 👍
I need one of those washers. I guess when I get to building my 4.7L to put into my Eagle, I'll go into cad and have someone I make it. The reason why the AMC 4.2L crank snout is longer is because the V belt pully and harmonic balancer set up was much thicker.
your way with the washer is mechanically correct -
I love rock auto and hagerty
Great video.
Beautiful 👍
Ya quiero ver cuando esté terminando :)
Love the videos
loctite 545 is the only thing i put on pipe thread anymore, only sealant that works every time
I need this in my e46.
Outstanding work as usual! I don't know about you, but I HATE using those types of ring compressors. Even so, you made it all look easy. Anyway, I really like the black, brass, and silver contrasts you got going on there as well. Looking solid.
When I did this I had the end of the crank snout shortened so I didn't have to worry about a spacer.
Actually the Teflon tape/dope is not a sealant. It is a lubricant to allow better seating and removal of the threads
Very good 🔥🔥🔥
you're awesome, I learn so much watching these rebuilds.
With brass PTFE isn't needed with Steel PTFE is needed (due to friction between the threads). Friction lower with brass so they can be tightened sufficiently to full seal without sealant, but it won't hurt.
Old trick, freeze the throw out bearing, and warm the crank. It will drop in without beating it.
Gotta write that one down. Use a piece from the old balancer as a spacer.
Later 8w cranks have short snouts. The longer snouts need machining or a spacer. Most kits come with that part included but if you piece together a motor with a long snout you have to remember what crank you have so you don't run into that problem. Not hard to fix though.
Apparently early and later 8W cranks are short I think back to 1980 I think but earlier than that may have been long depending on the belt drive and vehicle.
After '80 4W cranks have the long snout, need a spacer. Mines an '89 4W, I used a machined spacer.
Yes, I think Hesco sells that spacer for those that need one.
Note to camera(wo)man: When he's talking about something he's pointing to, show the thing. Always show us what he's talking about.
😎👍
Good afternoon Hagerty, what is the red stuff you use for engine assembly? Also the blue grease with the brush in it, what is it used for and where do you get it? Thanks for another great video, always learn new and clever tricks and techniques.
Awww man, wonder how much power all that extra weight on the end of the crankshaft cost.
What timing chain set did you choose to go with for this build?
10:40 Engine Builder VS Engine Assembly
Hi,
Did I miss seeing the tentioner sprocket holder (piece of plastic) at the back of front timing cover?🤔
only one relative? a one shot vid :)
The lube reminded me of Motor Honey! 🍯
Is there a reason you guys prefer the goo to the plumber's tape for the teflon
You need to degree the cam. What's the music that was playing? It was really good!
I think your last video featured a Delta cam. Do you know the grind number or the specifications?
Your situation happened because there is more than one type of 4.2 crank. One used a V-belt, one used a serpentine belt. The serpentine belt crank is what accepts the 4.0L crank pulley without a problem. Hesco sells the spacer.
How is it that you don't torque the crankshaft mains from center main to each end. alternating from front the to the rear ..and back?
I was just thinking that. I came to the comments to see if anyone had already asked about it.
Hi Davin. I love your videos and have watched every single one of them. I don't believe you do requests, but I am going to ask you anyway. How about you pick up a Nortstar with a blown head gasket/pulled stud next time? There are so many of them around, dirt cheap, cool cars. I just bought one, so I ought to know :-)
Great video ! To lubricate the pistons before insertion do you use assembly lube or standard motor oil ?
Standard 30w motor oil works just fine when dropping the pistons in the block. Its not recommended using assembly lube on the pistons. You do not want that thick stuff in the rings for obvious reasons.
I use 5W-30 motor oil if I am doing the build in a short time frame ( 3-5 days) but... If the short block assembly is going to sit for a couple weeks or so while I'm getting head work done etc, I will use a mixture of 5W-30 motor oil and either STP oil treatment or Wynns friction proofing for extra protection when I have to rotate the reciprocating assembly at a later date. I will typically put a 50-50 mix in a coffee can and dip my pistons. I prefer to use a tapered sleeve rather than oiling the cyl walls and using a ratcheting compressor. Nothing wrong with that method, just hasn't worked well for me.
I noticed in the time laps you didn't degree the Cam I know mechanics that won't sleep at night if they didn't know where there Cam is degreed what's your take on this and how important do you think it is?
Davin, can you say what is the standard angle of piston rings end??😅😁
IMO you probably needed to show the crank bolt being snugged down so folks could see the results of what you were explaining when "making the washer". IMO.
How did the pilot bearing from a 258 fit the 4.0's AX15? You got that from Rockauto as well?
Wassup dudeeee
Is seven main bearings on that crank a common number for inline 6's? Seems like this thing is gonna be a stump puller.
Yes. 7 mains. Same for the Ford 300 J code inline 6, if I remember correctly.
Since you are going to all the trouble....why not install a high torque cam, headers and a bigger throttle body? Just wondering. The Jeep 4.0 L is a great engine for building to your liking.
Any chance we could get a parts buy list for this build? I am doing the same one myself
"Ask me how I know." I kinda don't have to. :))
Idk who thinks you don't need a sealant on pipe threads. When I assemble pneumatics, I have to use sealant or it will leak immediately.
Good video but lacking a little detail ref assembly of cam bearings and piston rings.
Not trying to be negative, but not all are as experienced with these assembly techniques .
Hagerty and RockAuto, give the list of parts bought so we can replicate this. I'm going to be rebuilding mine
How Mach all this
Episode 94?
I have to ask, hope you answer either way. Is Billy selling the cars off at all?
i assume your new washer is steel so you might want to remember to paint it.
P.S. On INLINE engines//
Why not just use a 4.2 balancer?
The best build for the 6 is to take an old 252 carb engine and put the 4.0 FI head on it. It's pretty easy to do plus you get 250+ hp, just bolting it on with a couple of small mods. The wiring is the worst part
That’s ok if you’re trying to stay 258/4.2, but he’s building a 280/4.6.
Pipe dope "style" is a bit more "traditional" than tape---LOL
@2:55 Tape and Dope/Joint compound should not be thought of as interchangeable. Tape is more of a lubricant than a sealant. It cuts down on the friction in the threads allowing you to get an item (like an NPT threaded plug) tighter with the same torque. I would never use only tape to seal any liquid under pressure. Thoughts on this from other people with plumbing experience?
Are the threads tapered? If not then use Teflon tape if you are really worried. You are correct about the torque values changing with a lubricant but I don't think it matters in this POS application. It is a dumb engine anyhow. The tolerances are massive.
@@brarautorepairs That "dumb engine" is one of the most, if not THE most, durable gasoline engines ever made.
50 years of history prove that out; the AMC/Jeep inline 6 is universally famous for that.
Tolerances, as Davin is pointing out in this very series, is about industry standard for the time it was in
production. Further, there's no less than *7* main bearings in the bottom end!
It's a virtually indestructible engine with minimum maintenance, much like the old Chrysler Slant 6.
P.S. Those threads Davin was plugging are NPT thread ("pipe thread"), which is why they're tapered.
Using a tapered NPT thread plug, along with a few wraps of *good* teflon tape (no Chinesium!)
and they will never leak - and be easily removable in the future.
- Ed on the Ridge
As someone who's been in the fire sprinkler trade for over 40 years now, the stuff we work on has to be good
for at least 175psi - far more than anything on an engine.
I've never used anything more than good USA-made teflon tape on all threaded connections....
and I never have leaks (the boys that insist on using "dope" or dope/tape, well, they have leaks).
You either know what you're doing or you don't...
Regards from a long-time "glorified plumber",
- Ed on the Ridge
@@moparedtn Durability wise, it is well known that Lexus/Toyota have made some of the most durable and reliable engines in the world (i.e. LS400). If you look at Ward's best engine list, you will hardly see any Mopar products until 1999 and those entries are few and far between. This straight 6 OHV design is so basic that it doesn't belong in anything made in the last 20 years. When the Internal combustion engine is finally retired, this engine will be near the bottom of the list beside Lada.
@@brarautorepairs as a Russian I am saddened by this, but I completely agree about Lada.
Can someone please link a detailed list of instructions for this? And is there anything that can't be bought off the shelf that the machine shop can't do? Fairly mechanically inclined but with limited jeep knowledge and I wanna know the full scope b4 I break down my bank account
what does "short block" mean?
It's the block and rotating assembly (crank, pistons, rods, timing set). No heads or manifolds.
Freeze plugs, what are those? You must mean core plugs.
I think it's going to be a torquey little beasty. Higher compression, 0.6L larger displacement, probably some woken up cams.
Video Guru Feedback. I don't mind time-lapses of repetitive actions like sizing piston rings. I am NOT a fan of time-lapse sooo fast you can't see or get a feel for what Davin is doing. Consider the first at normal rate and then time-lapse.
Willys L134 please.
Do they even break 45 mph?
@@netrioter lol sometimes
Maybe a Willys F-head instead? That would really surprise some people to see half an OHV engine.
@@skylinefever or do both with the same block.
Oh. So I guess I'll be ordering a lathe if they send me the wrong part...
Yea Davin you got the toys we don't have, what would you do without the lathe? lol
Doing the same type of thing is getting tedious.
i hate time lapse videos you miss to many details.
Jeep..around where I live, Jeep is like flying a Confederate War Flag off of your front porch all day,every day..I don't get into it because I am an American AND a Viet-Nam war vet..So I take your Jeep Anything like a gun shot to the head..Lose the Jeep..pleeze..actually..don't do that..maybe Hagerty is a Confederate type place...😒
You must live in a VERY weird place with some exceptionally uninformed people.
Ummm, wut?
You know jeeps are made in Ohio which was part of the Union and not the Confederacy right? Maybe go up a hat size or two and let some blood flow get in there....
I guess Nazis and other national socialists only drive Audis, VW, Porches, Mercedes and BMW right?