Man I been in this house for 9hrs trying to get my heat to come on it’s 20 degrees here in Nc which is freezing to us lol I thought I was gonna have to go to my dads 🙌🏾🙌🏾 thank you for this video
Live In AZ so Temps stay pretty warm. Thus year Temps below 35 regularly at night. Couldn't figure out why my heat would not kick on. Thank you so much for this video!
Yes, but it’s not in “plain sight” when looking at the display. You have to click on the settings icon (the gear icon) on the lower right corner of the display to determine if auxiliary heat is running.
Heat Pump & 2 Stage Gas Furnace: I want a heat temp differential at 1F with AUX Stage 2 activating at 2F Further, my heat pump (compressor) AUX crossover is set at 30F for now as I still need to get a feel of my heat pump efficiency. If you switch AUX Reverse Staging to "ON", Compressor to AUX runtime becomes disabled (not used), however, it is now asking for a value to be added for Compressor to AUX Temperature Delta... what should this value be set at?
Best series of vids I’ve seen on the subject! I wondered why the aux heat wasn’t coming on when I got down to the single digits here a few weeks ago. It was that minimum temp outdoor temp for the compressor. Are there any settings I need to be aware of to ensure the system goes into defrost mode? Thank you!!!!
I have the ecobee 5 and I have Carrier Air handler and Condenser hooked to it for AC. I am trying to figure out how to run my Honeywell Zone Valve for my hydronic baseboard heat. Currently Rc(red) G(green) Y1(yellow) C(brown) W1(white) are connected to thermostat which control the air handler. Do I need to run a transformer or can I use the power that is being supplied by the common from the air handler or how do I wire it
I just installed an electric heat pump and I want to use the old oil radiant heat as a back up. How do I wire the thermostat and should I run new wire from the furnace to the boiler or just hook up the existing one from the boiler to the thermostat. Thanks
If there are only two sources of heat, a thermostat like ecobee can handle that. You need to use both RH and RC since the boiler and the air handler each have a 24vac transformer. The boiler will wire to RH and W. The air handler and heat pump will wire to RC, C, G, Y,1, and O/B.
@@TECTubefilms I only have 2 source of heat. Electric heat pump and oil boiler with radiators. Shouldn't I wire the the oil to the w2 and Rh since it is going to be used as a back up heat?
@@007Dilana No, the first stage is the heat pump which will energize Y1 and O/B. Then the stat will energize W1 for auxiliary heat. You can then program it always keep the heat pump as first stage or you can select a certain outdoor temp to turn the heat pump off and use the radiant heat instead. That decision is based on the thermal break point of your heat pump and the economic break point of the whole combined system (the math of your two fuel costs and your two equipment efficiencies).
Thanks for the video, question, does the Ecobee manage a variable speed Heat Pump as a 2 stage unit with only 2 speeds? Would I lose some efficiency if I run my Ecobee 3 lite over the provided thermostat with a Mr Cool air handler 5 ton variable speed heat pump ?
Ecobee only has outputs to control 1 and 2 stage equipment. Ecobee can not directly handle the modulation of cooling, heating, or fan... nor does it even know what modulation is. We are not familiar with Mr. Cool specifically, but some variable speed compressor heat pumps handle their own modulation. You just give them a Y1 signal from the stat to indicate a call for cooling and then they ramp themselves based on a pressure transducer. Other models are only modulated by their own special wall thermostat. Losing features or efficiency depends on the specific equipment.
How do you know if you need a 1 or 2 wire humidifier setup? I see two different ways of doing this and removing the humidistat. It looks easier if I use the ACC plus at the thermostat and the C terminal in the furnace for the solenoid wires.
It depends on the humdifier. If it has its own transformer internal to it, then you need to wire it 2-wire. If the humidifer is going to use control power from the furnace transformer, then you wire it 1-wire.
Is there an “emergency heat”, on ecobee system? If yes, how can I switch on emergency from a distance since I don’t have the access of the thermostat; I can only use the app. Thank you
Like many modern stats, the term emergency heat is no longer used. Instead it is called auxiliary heat or supplemental heat. On ecobee, you can manually put it in to auxiliary heat using the menu button. You can select, heat, cool, auto, AUX, or off. In this case, AUX is your non-heat pump auxiliary heat (aka emergency heat).
Hello. Thanks for the videos. They were great! I have a Trane XL14i Heat Pump and a Trane Variable Speed Air Handler with electric AUX heat. Don't believe I have Two stages. It was installed back in 2006 I believe. I don't know how low I can go with the compressor, cant find any documentation on it. You recommended lower than 35. I prefer to not use the AUX as much as I can due to cost but I do want my house to be comfortable for my kids.
We don't use Trane equipment. We do, however, use a lot of Carrier, Bryant, Payne, Heil, and Day & Night. The lowest allowable heat mode temp for those brands is model # specific, however the highest one we have ever seen is 10 degrees. Most are allowed to run lower than that. Additionally, EVERY manufacturer that is part of AHRI (so that would include Trane) rates their heat pump performance at both 47 and 17 degrees outside. So 35 degrees is way too high of a default for ecobee to use.
Great video. I install Ecobees and I've noticed that on some heat pumps, when initially activated, the aux heat max outdoor temp is 70 but others are 35. Why is this and should I keep it at 35 if it suggests it?
In the video, Ryan recommends lowering it much below 35. That 35 is a default, it is not a suggestion by the thermostat. The stat does not know anything about your heat pump model or your local utility rates.
Im a lil confused about the difference between the part in which you said the heat pump setting below 35 which is recommended by thermostat but not correct but later said the outdoor temperature setting for when the heat pump should come in?
The first one was the setting for the absolute lowest outdoor temp that your specific model of heat pump can be allowed to operate. Below that it will not run and only use your auxiliary heat. The second one that we assume you are talking about it the absolute highest outdoor temp that your auxiliary heat will be allowed to operate. Above that your auxiliary heat (electric heat or gas furnace) cannot turn on. In between those two numbers, the stat will use your heat pump as 1st stage and your Aux as 2nd stage when needed.
OK, getting confused due to the mode of the thermostat. My Ecobee 4 has the option to heat, cool, auto, AUX and off. My dilemma is with the Heat and Aux, If I choose the Heat mode, does that mean the thermostat is forcing the system to use the compressor without the aux heat? If I choose the Aux mode, does that mean the system is going to run on Aux only? I already set up all the other advanced settings that you explained when it comes to Aux and compressor such as the minimum temp and so on. Thank you
Aux mode would be Aux only. Do not select that option. It would only be used if the customer had an issue with their primary heat (compressor). Aux bypasses the primary heat.
@@TECTubefilms I was under the impression hat the heat mode will only operate compressor without the on-demand aux, but I was wrong. Thanks for clarifying that. Strange that Ecobee has such a setting accessible to the consumer, which is essentially in the home screen, not a setting hidden in some kind of “Advanced Settings” menu. Also amazed how Ecobee is probably one of the advanced thermostats when it comes to changing delicate settings, as seen in the Threshold menu. Did not see such options in the Nest. Totally agree with you on the minimum compressor outdoor temp, should not be 35, and on the continuous fan operation setting when it comes to cooling vs heating. Thank you for the informative video.
I've got a heat pump, and I've got 8 wires coming out of the wall, that were hooked up to the existing/old Honeywell thermostat. With the ecobee premium instructions, i only see clear details on what to do with 5 of the wires... Any suggestions? I've looked & looked for a video of someone who has a heat bump, installing this ecobee premium, but have been unable to find an installation instruction video.
You need to know what the other end of each of those 8 wires connects to specifically in order to determine if ecobee can handle this situation. Ecobee has wiring diagrams for as many as 10 wires. You have your 5 traditional wires (G, Y1, W1, Rc, C) and then 2nd stage heat (W2), 2nd stage compressor (Y2), separate 24v for two transformer systems (Rh), and finally 1 or 2 wires for an accessory like a humidifier.
Auto allows the thermostat to run either heating or cooling. Some people never want to touch the stat and just let it choose. Other people like to put it in heat for the winter and cool for the summer (although in the spring and fall they end up manually having to swap between the two)
I have problems with my wecobee4 i not Getting the electric heat and the heat pump to work together, what could I be doing wrong in the thermostat programming because the connections are correct and I connected another smart thermostat and it worked fine but I love my ecobee4 and I would like to be able to connect it. 
I have a hydro air unit with a heatpump installed and I set up the ecobee4 as a furnace instead of boiler operation because I need the fan since it's not baseboard. If I set it up as a boiler is there a way to have the fan turn on after a delay so the pipe heats up first? Right now when it calls for heat the fan turns on before the water coil gets to temp so I didn't know if theres a way to adjust that at the stat instead of installing an aqua stat
When installing it to control a "furnace" you are given the choice of letting the furnace control the fan or letting ecobee control the fan. If the furnace controls the fan, the normal fan delay will occur which allows the system to heat up first. But this delay is managed by the furnace circuit board, not the stat. If you configure it to let ecobee control the fan for heat mode, then G is energized immediately with W. There is no option to add a delay.
I have a very simple set up the furnace is in the basement and is stage 1,the Compressor aux is set to default of 35 should I change it down to the teens or will it matter for my setup?
Assuming that your Aux heat is electric resistance heating, then yes we would recommend running the compressor as low as the manufacturer will allow. 35 is too high. Depending on the brand, this could be -10, 0, or even +10 degrees. We have never seen a unit that cannot run down to at least +17.
I just moved into a house with a heat pump for the first floor and a gas furnace just for the first floor. Currently i have a “dumb” thermostat that’s just running on emergency heat so we’re only using the gas furnace. Is this more cost effective? Also is this possible to do with an Ecobee?
If you are asking if it is more cost effective to run the gas heat or the heat pump, that answer varies based on the efficiency of the furnace, the model of the heat pump, the cost of gas where you live, and the cost of your electric. You (or someone) needs to calculate both the thermal balance point and the economic balance point. You or your HVAC tech may want to check this out - ua-cam.com/video/VFe_3KzqX1M/v-deo.html
Yes, ecobee can handle a dual fuel system that is heat pump and gas furnace. Once you know the thermal and economic balance points for your specific scenario, you can set those in ecobee and it will automatically switch between your two heating systems based on the outdoor air temp.
wonder if anyone can give me some guidance. new hvac system put in, ecobee is wired in two stage aux heat W1 (ecobee) W1 (air handler), W2 (ecobee) W2 (air hander). I like the reverse staging, since I don't have to turn on all of the heat kit if within a margin of my set point, however, the Heat Pump is only connected to W1 of the air handler, so when the heat pump goes into defrost mode, it only turns on half of my heat kit (bascially stage 1) which is not hot enough in defrost mode and the house actually cools down again during defrost ? In normal single stage W1, they would jumper W1 and W2 in the air handler to light up all heat strips, but that is disconnected to give me 2 stages on the ecobee. Any way I can have full aux heat (W1 and W2) when in defrost, but keep my staging from the ecobee ?
Will your particular system run all of the electric heat stages if the defrost from the heat pump energizes W2 instead of W1? Or does your specific indoor air handler need to receive W1 before W2?
@@TECTubefilms that would've been nice, but no. I actually have three inputs (W1 = 5kw, W2 = 10kw and W3 = 20kw), however, for W3 to work W2 must be active and for W2, W1 must be active. From factory W1 to W2 is jumped and W2 to W3 is jumped, so I reverted to that, so I can get the whole 20kw on defrost, but had to get rid of my Aux Staging unfortunately, only W1 from ecobee is now connected. It's a Lennox CBA38MV
So on dual fuel system (gas furnace back up) It will automatically switch between HP and furnace? Do I need to add a separate sensor so it can see outdoor temp?
Yes, it is automatic dual fuel changeover based on outdoor temp. No, there is no sensor that needs to be installed. ecobee gets the outdoor temp data via the Internet.
so how does the thermostat sense the outside ambient temp for the aux to kick in or for the compressor?? is there a seperate wire that goes from outside unit to new stat?????? thanks rj
It uses the outdoor temperature from the Internet. So make sure the stat is on Wi-Fi and that the street address is correct. There is no hardwired sensor to the outdoors.
Auxiliary heat is based on deviation from indoor setpoint just like primary heat. The outdoor temperature is used to disable Aux above a certain OA temp. That OA temp depends on how the heat pump was sized relative to the home and the specific model of heat pump. The thermal balance point needs to be calculated for each heat pump install and the resulting answer is generally between 15 and 35 degrees, which above you do not need Aux. OA is also sometimes used disable the compressor below an OA temp. This should be done based on the model of the heat pump and its COP at various OA temps. The answer is generally between -30 and +17 degrees.
Hey @TECTubefilms recently had our oil furnace replaced with a ducted modulating heat pump with auxiliary heating. The installers have a 7-wire to the air handler connectted to R, C, G, Y/Y2, B, W1, E/AUX. With a jumper going from W1 to W2. Would my ecobee be connected to R-R, C-C, G-G, Y/Y2-Y1, B-O/B, W1-W1 and E/AUX-W2? Thanks
Also, if the modulating heat pump has the ability to accept a Y2 command you may want to do that... but maybe not. Depends on the equipment. If that unit dumbs down the modulation with both Y1 and Y2, then do not do it. However, if that equipment still modulates with both, then you may want to separate Y1 and Y2 so you can have different indoor airflows to match the capacity better which means lower sound levels and better dehumidification.
The unit is a 48K Moovair with a 8/10Kw, connected to a honeywell T6 currently. In the manual it states Y is first period cooling, Y/Y2 is a second period cooling W is heating operation, W1 electric heating operation 1, W2 electric heating operation 2, E/AUX is emergency heating. B is heating(four-way valve)
@@cowbell1315 Never heard of Moovair. What type of heating is W heating on that unit? If W1 is electric resistance and Y1+B is heat pump, then what are W and E/AUX? Do you have a 3rd and 4th source of heat? When you energize W or E, what specifically turns on?
@@cowbell1315 When you say the "manual" you are referring to the Moovair manual, correct? Don't look at the Honeywell T6 manual because does not apply in this discussion.
I have an Ecobee and sometimes the heat/heat aux will not come on. It sounds like it's trying to come on but the blower will not start up. I have a dual heating system and I think the Ecobee is confused. The heating guy thinks so also. I just don't know what to do to get Echobee to send the right signal to turn on the blower, when 90% of the time it works Help!!!!!
If it is "dual fuel," that means you have a gas furnace combined with a heat pump. When a furnace receives a call for heat on W1, it automatically turns its own fan on. However, when a heat pump receives a call for compressor on Y1 something else needs to tell the furnace fan to come by calling for G. Perhaps your ecobee is not setup to call for G on a heat call. So maybe the times you observe it working, it is in gas heat mode and the times it is not is because it is in heat pump mode. The other possibility is that your system has tripped a safety, such as thermal cutout in the motor. We are just speculating since troubleshooting without being there is extremely hard.
An enery company installed this at a friend's house. She called me and said that she is getting a message that her auxiliary heat is running too long? I disabled the auxiliary and her furnace never comes on. She said it has been this way since the installation of the thermostat. The board on the furnace has a solid light as if it has no call to run. Any ideas?
That alert message is configurable. We think the default is 3 hours, but you can change it. The purpose of the message is to let you know that your 250-350% efficient air source heat pump is likely failed (or running ineffectively) and that your 100% efficient auxiliary electric heat is carrying the load by itself. If that message is received, the heat pump should be examined and tested.
We are not exactly sure what you did to disable the furnace, but if you disabled it then why would it come on. We assume that the furnace is the auxiliary heat in you example, correct? The heat pump is always the primary heat and then the auxiliary is either a gas furnace or it is an electric heater.
We call that a "Dual Fuel System" or a "Hybrid System." Depending the costs, it may make sense to simply shut the heat pump off. Where we are at gas is $0.72 and electric $0.15 (all taxes/fees averaged in) so once it is below 60F it usually doesn't make sense to run the heat pump anymore. Your HVAC guy should be able to do a calculation for a "thermal break point" and an "economic break point" and then set the ecobee's changeover point for the higher of those two. TBP is specific to your model of heat pump and your house. It is the outdoor temp at which the heat pump cannot generate enough heat anymore. The EBP is specific to your model of heat pump and your two fuel costs and is the outdoor temp at which the heat pump costs more to operate than the gas heat.
Thank you! I think I have the heat set like that. However the unit won’t let me set both the compressor and aux to reverse staging. Any suggestions there? My installer was not familiar with the reverse when I asked
@@skichler Newer software versions of ecobee since the video was made, have a setting for "manual" or "auto" control of the staging. You have to first turn it to manual, before you can enable features like reverse staging. It is on the same screen, just scroll back up a little.
Maybe I'm old school but if this unit does not allow for a wired outdoor temperature sensor how can it be properly setup for a dual fuel system with a heat pump and a gas furnace? How will it accurately know when it is 35 degrees outside (for example) and it is time to lock out the heat pump for auxiliary fuel? I just can't get my head around this. There must be an answer because there are now so few thermostats with the "S" terminals for an outdoor sensor. If the answer is that it relies on Internet weather to provide a local temperature for the heat pump lockout what happens if your Internet is down? How will your system know when it can switch from one mode to another?
Yes, most thermostats now use internet-based weather data for the current outdoor temp. If for some reason your internet is down, most stats will continue to use the most recent weather data it had. If you internet is only down for a couple of hours, then no problem. If for some reason your internet is down for multiple days, then you would have to manually switch the dual fuel. But honestly, if someone loses internet access for more than an hour they will likely be more freaked out in their life than if they lose heat. LOL
My heat pump is a Carrier Infinity 25HNB5, what should I use as compressor min outdoor temperature? Specs says minimum outdoor air temperature for heating mode is -30F. Setting to 0 seems high, disabled risky and auto is undocumented. Thanks.
@@simmmomom Since you have an all electric system, the heat pump is always less expensive to run than the electric heat. Therefore, let the heat pump run as stage 1 down to -30F and the electric will be stage 2.
@@simmmomom Oh... we understand your issue now... the right answer for your system is -30F, but the stat only goes down to 0F. Zero is appropriate for our climate because we are seldom every below that, but where you are at in Montreal, you want/need it to go lower. We would suggest that you select "disable" so ecobee does not lock out the heat pump at all (note: this is how things would have operated if you had a traditional thermostat anyway). Having ecobee do the lockout is a "belt and suspenders" type of thing. If you feel more comfortable with that extra layer of security, then select 0F. Zero will also reduce the times at which you need to use defrost, which can be a comfort issue.
We not are sure what you mean by setting auxiliary heat relative to time? Auxiliary heat would be set based on deviation from indoor set point, as well as OA lockout temp.
Yes. Some mini-splits have an option (it is usually an accessory kit that is ordered) that can be used to wire them to a conventional thermostat like ecobee. Although when you do this, you lose features of the mini-split handheld remote such as the ability to redirect the louvers, dry cool functions, etc.
@@TECTubefilms thanks for the reply. I have an LG system and purchased a dry contact (PDRYCB3200) and can’t get my Ecobee 4 to communicate with the outdoor unit. The dry contact has a heat pump wiring diagram that sends only 5 wires to the Ecobee. Since my unit has a reversing valve defaults to cooling, I’m using the “B” wire arrangement. If I run the wires per the diagram, the “thermal” (LG’s designation) to the O/B socket at the thermostat - the unit tells me there needs to be a wire in the Y1 position. If I move the “thermal” to Y1, I don’t get the option to set up the heat pump. I’ve also attached a jumper from O/B and Y1 at the thermostat, set up the heat pump, but still no communication. Any ideas?
@@kurtpearson2336 We are not very familiar with LG products. We used to rep them about 15 years ago but we have not kept up to speed on their products since that divorce. We have never heard of a thermostat terminal designated as thermal. That seems odd. A normal thermostat... including ecobee... will have outputs of R (hot), C (common), G (fan), Y (cool), W (heat), and O/B (reversing valve). If you not have auxiliary heat (electric resistance, gas furnace, etc.), then you will not normally use W. So your 5 wires should be R, C, G, Y, and O/B.
@@kurtpearson2336 A quick Google search of PDRYCB300 yields wiring diagrams that look more like they are for integrating to a commercial building automation system than to a residential thermostat.
Why would you want to do that? Even at colder outdoor temps, most heat pump models are still twice the efficiency as electric resistance heating. You should use heat pump as the first stage of heat and then the electric heat can supplement it (not replace it) on colder days.
@@mrbond9882 That would be a function of the furnace. If it is a standard single stage furnace, it can only be on (hot air) or off (no air or cool air). If it is a modulating gas furnace (with a different type of modulating stat and not ecobee), then it can ramp up and down and maintain consistently warm discharge air temperature at the registers.
Why would you want to run an air to air heat pump when it is 5 or 10 degrees? They will be very inefficient, even if technically capable. Maybe if you have resistance heating - I don't know. But with a gas furnace, I wouldn't set the switch-over point to anything less than 40 degrees and depending upon expected short term gas prices, I might even want to move tha tup to 50-5 degrees.
If the goal is efficiency, then the heat pump will always beat every furnace until the COP drops below 0.98 even for the best furnace. Depending on the model of heat pump, that might occur at -20 degrees or at +20 degrees (or anything else). If the goal is to have lower energy bills, then you have to calculate the cost of the fuel. If you only have electric resistance heating, then the heat pump will always beat it out. If you have propane, gas, or oil, you have to do the math. We have another video on how to do the math.
You can put the stat in cool, heat, or auto. Auto means that it automatically switches between heating and cooling as the seasons change. In all 3 of those modes, once the room temp matches your desired setpoint, the heating or cooling would turn itself off.
If you only have two wires, such as R & W for a heating-only application for an old boiler, then you will need an adapter such as the FAST-STAT CommonMaker in order to power the stat.
That is not true. We are both a Carrier distributor and an ecobee distributor. In fact, we buy our ecobee stats from Carrier. And Carrier offers consumer rebates for combos of Carrier furnaces and ecobee stats. They also have some joint business ventures together. Whomever told you they don't play nice is mistaken.
Maybe whomever told you that was specifically referring to modulating gas furnaces or to variable speed inverter compressor units. Those Carrier systems have anywhere between 5 and 61 stages of capacity. Since ecobee... and all other thermostat brands... can only control 2 stages, if you put ecobee on those systems it will work, but dumb them down to just 2 stages.
So many possible issues. But since you just installed this stat, it is likely a wiring error. Use electrical meter to troubleshoot. And if this is a heat pump, start with the reversing valve wiring to the thermostat based on your symptoms.
@@dillonparker9018 Yes, it can control up to 2 stages of heat pump heat, up to 2 stages of electric resistance heat, and up to 2 stages of cooling all at the same time
You say no heat pump is rated for 35 degrees but I contacted customer service for the heat pump that is installed in the home we just bought and they said it is only rated to handle 35 degrees then a backup heat source would be required. On super cold nights our heat pump runs for several hours straight unless we just turn on the aux heat to kick in at a smaller threshold.
@@RebeccaMae1983 We cannot look up anything specific for you without knowing the model number of the unit. However, with that said, we just looked up a bunch of random Goodman models in the AHRI Directory (all manufacturers rate their equipment with AHRI) and every single one we looked at has rating data at both 47 and 17 degrees. We have never seen anyone ever rate a unit at 35 degrees. Goodman has 10,183 heat pump systems AHRI rated, so we would need to know your model number to give you a specific answer. You are also welcome to search at www.ahridirectory.org/NewSearch?programId=69&searchTypeId=1&productTypeId=3523
I don't like the way Ecobee program the O/B terminal. When it energize in Cool it stay energize for the rest of the season till you switch to heat mode.
You would need to graph out the house load calc on the BTU/h output vs. OAT graph provided by the manufacturer in order to determine the Thermal Break Point. The answer is different for each brand... and each model series within that brand... and the sizes within that model series... and the specific load needs of the house.
@@tynelson5502 FYI - One pipe of your lineset still gets cold when running in the heat mode... the system is just transferring heat from outside to inside in heat mode versus the opposite for cooling mode.
@@tynelson5502 We assumed you mean you were in a heat mode and the heat pump is accidentally running in cooling. That is the mot common issue when electric heat runs during cooling. Your issue is different.
You will need to do the following: 1) determine if your thermostat thinks it is calling for heating or cooling right now 2) use electrical meter to make sure the equipment is receiving the correct contact closures from the thermostat Then you will know if you need to troubleshoot the thermostat setup, the wiring, or the equipment.
Ecobee thermostats can work without an internet connection. The biggest "issue" you might have with no internet would be the lack of outdoor air temp reading for a heat pump. In that case, it would do like you suggest and it would still run in a default mode. It will use the last OA reading until the internet connection is restored. If you lose internet access for more than a couple of hours, the occupants will likely be more concerned about no internet to their other devices than they are about their heat pump running inefficiently. LOL But in any case, they will still have operable heat. It is not like their heat shuts off or anything like that.
That is less of a thermostat issue and more of a furnace circuit board issue. Right now, we are not aware of any furnaces on the market that have inputs on their boards to accept fan speed commands from a thermostat. The only furnaces that allow fan speed adjustment from the stat do so with a proprietary communication cable between their "communicating wall control" and the furnace, not with relays like a standard stat would have. Check out our video series on Infinity, Evolution, or Ion controls for examples of how these are wired and operate.
@@TECTubefilms I have Whalen fan coil unit and it has a 2 speed fan controlled by thermostat. So my choice was install Ecobee with single speed or go with Nest that supports up to 3 speeds
@@IYG-x7c We are familiar with Whalen, as we are the Whalen rep here in Chicago. That type of commercial fan coil equipment is uncommon (relative to furnaces) and hence normal thermostats do not support direct fan speed control. Thank you for the info on nest. We were not aware that the most current version of nest added extra terminals to support a G1, G2, and G3 fan signals instead of just a single G signal. We will research it.
@@IYG-x7c Upon further research (aka a quick Google search), it looks like nest did not add extra terminals for G2 and G3. Instead, you can reprogram your Y2 to act as G2, which means that once you decide to control fan speed with nest, you can no longer use nest on a 2 stage cooling system. And it re-purposes the * terminal as G3, which means that nest can no longer control a humidifier, a dehum sequence, a 3rd stage of heat, or heat pump emergency heat. In the case of a high rise condo using commercial chilled water fan coils or water source heat pumps, this is likely acceptable because 2 stage cooling and humidifiers are not common anyway. But for the majority of single-family homes with furnaces, residential fan coils, or air source heat pumps, nest will still not be able to control fan speeds.
@@TECTubefilms Yes, using Y2 for 2nd speed. Nest basically controls it automatically, if temp difference is greater then X then it turns high speed, otherwise it's running on low. Works great except that Nest ambient temperature sensor is +5F more then actual. I think Ecobee has an adjustment for this as well as my previous Honeywell, not Nest. Very annoying because have to always deduct 5.
Roasting? Are you saying the heat is running and won’t shut off? What is happening? What is your heat setpoint and what is the actual temp in the space per the stat? Heat pump or gas furnace? Brand new house or just new to you?
@@TECTubefilms we don’t have internet yet. The internet won’t be connected until this Tuesday. When we turn on the system and have the cool setting on warm air blows out. Is there a way to get it to blow cold without having internet?
I have a mitsubishi system that came with a mitsubishi thermostat, the mitsubishi thermostat will not allow me to lower the temperature in heating mode below 63ﾟ. If I add in ecobee or other 3rd party thermostat will that allow me to drop the temperature in the house below 63ﾟ?
The ecobee thermostat can have a heating setpoint down to 45. However, we are unfamiliar with the options associated with Mitisubishi and if your unit can work with a 24vac stat.
Thanks for the videos. Exactly what I needed to set up my ecobee.
Man I been in this house for 9hrs trying to get my heat to come on it’s 20 degrees here in Nc which is freezing to us lol I thought I was gonna have to go to my dads 🙌🏾🙌🏾 thank you for this video
Live In AZ so Temps stay pretty warm. Thus year Temps below 35 regularly at night. Couldn't figure out why my heat would not kick on. Thank you so much for this video!
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Great info, thanks. When the supplemental auxiliary heat kicks on and runs, does it actually tell you on the display?
Yes, but it’s not in “plain sight” when looking at the display. You have to click on the settings icon (the gear icon) on the lower right corner of the display to determine if auxiliary heat is running.
Heat Pump & 2 Stage Gas Furnace:
I want a heat temp differential at 1F with AUX Stage 2 activating at 2F
Further, my heat pump (compressor) AUX crossover is set at 30F for now as I still need to get a feel of my heat pump efficiency.
If you switch AUX Reverse Staging to "ON", Compressor to AUX runtime becomes disabled (not used), however, it is now asking for a value to be added for Compressor to AUX Temperature Delta... what should this value be set at?
Best series of vids I’ve seen on the subject! I wondered why the aux heat wasn’t coming on when I got down to the single digits here a few weeks ago. It was that minimum temp outdoor temp for the compressor. Are there any settings I need to be aware of to ensure the system goes into defrost mode? Thank you!!!!
Defrost is handled by the controls inside the heat pump, not by the thermostat.
I have the ecobee 5 and I have Carrier Air handler and Condenser hooked to it for AC. I am trying to figure out how to run my Honeywell Zone Valve for my hydronic baseboard heat. Currently Rc(red) G(green) Y1(yellow) C(brown) W1(white) are connected to thermostat which control the air handler. Do I need to run a transformer or can I use the power that is being supplied by the common from the air handler or how do I wire it
I just installed an electric heat pump and I want to use the old oil radiant heat as a back up. How do I wire the thermostat and should I run new wire from the furnace to the boiler or just hook up the existing one from the boiler to the thermostat. Thanks
Do you have 3 sources of heat now? Heat pump, oil furnace, and oil boiler feeding radiators
If there are only two sources of heat, a thermostat like ecobee can handle that. You need to use both RH and RC since the boiler and the air handler each have a 24vac transformer. The boiler will wire to RH and W. The air handler and heat pump will wire to RC, C, G, Y,1, and O/B.
@@TECTubefilms I only have 2 source of heat. Electric heat pump and oil boiler with radiators. Shouldn't I wire the the oil to the w2 and Rh since it is going to be used as a back up heat?
@@007Dilana No, the first stage is the heat pump which will energize Y1 and O/B. Then the stat will energize W1 for auxiliary heat. You can then program it always keep the heat pump as first stage or you can select a certain outdoor temp to turn the heat pump off and use the radiant heat instead. That decision is based on the thermal break point of your heat pump and the economic break point of the whole combined system (the math of your two fuel costs and your two equipment efficiencies).
@@TECTubefilms Thank you. You just answered a question I couldn't find answer online.
Thanks for the video, question, does the Ecobee manage a variable speed Heat Pump as a 2 stage unit with only 2 speeds? Would I lose some efficiency if I run my Ecobee 3 lite over the provided thermostat with a Mr Cool air handler 5 ton variable speed heat pump ?
Ecobee only has outputs to control 1 and 2 stage equipment. Ecobee can not directly handle the modulation of cooling, heating, or fan... nor does it even know what modulation is. We are not familiar with Mr. Cool specifically, but some variable speed compressor heat pumps handle their own modulation. You just give them a Y1 signal from the stat to indicate a call for cooling and then they ramp themselves based on a pressure transducer. Other models are only modulated by their own special wall thermostat. Losing features or efficiency depends on the specific equipment.
How do you know if you need a 1 or 2 wire humidifier setup? I see two different ways of doing this and removing the humidistat. It looks easier if I use the ACC plus at the thermostat and the C terminal in the furnace for the solenoid wires.
It depends on the humdifier. If it has its own transformer internal to it, then you need to wire it 2-wire. If the humidifer is going to use control power from the furnace transformer, then you wire it 1-wire.
Is there an “emergency heat”, on ecobee system? If yes, how can I switch on emergency from a distance since I don’t have the access of the thermostat; I can only use the app. Thank you
Like many modern stats, the term emergency heat is no longer used. Instead it is called auxiliary heat or supplemental heat. On ecobee, you can manually put it in to auxiliary heat using the menu button. You can select, heat, cool, auto, AUX, or off. In this case, AUX is your non-heat pump auxiliary heat (aka emergency heat).
Thank you, very much@@TECTubefilms
Hello. Thanks for the videos. They were great!
I have a Trane XL14i Heat Pump and a Trane Variable Speed Air Handler with electric AUX heat. Don't believe I have Two stages. It was installed back in 2006 I believe. I don't know how low I can go with the compressor, cant find any documentation on it. You recommended lower than 35. I prefer to not use the AUX as much as I can due to cost but I do want my house to be comfortable for my kids.
We don't use Trane equipment. We do, however, use a lot of Carrier, Bryant, Payne, Heil, and Day & Night. The lowest allowable heat mode temp for those brands is model # specific, however the highest one we have ever seen is 10 degrees. Most are allowed to run lower than that. Additionally, EVERY manufacturer that is part of AHRI (so that would include Trane) rates their heat pump performance at both 47 and 17 degrees outside. So 35 degrees is way too high of a default for ecobee to use.
Great video. I install Ecobees and I've noticed that on some heat pumps, when initially activated, the aux heat max outdoor temp is 70 but others are 35. Why is this and should I keep it at 35 if it suggests it?
We have only seen 35 as the default, not 70. At 70, your heat pump is essentially disabled.
In the video, Ryan recommends lowering it much below 35. That 35 is a default, it is not a suggestion by the thermostat. The stat does not know anything about your heat pump model or your local utility rates.
Im a lil confused about the difference between the part in which you said the heat pump setting below 35 which is recommended by thermostat but not correct but later said the outdoor temperature setting for when the heat pump should come in?
The first one was the setting for the absolute lowest outdoor temp that your specific model of heat pump can be allowed to operate. Below that it will not run and only use your auxiliary heat.
The second one that we assume you are talking about it the absolute highest outdoor temp that your auxiliary heat will be allowed to operate. Above that your auxiliary heat (electric heat or gas furnace) cannot turn on.
In between those two numbers, the stat will use your heat pump as 1st stage and your Aux as 2nd stage when needed.
OK, getting confused due to the mode of the thermostat. My Ecobee 4 has the option to heat, cool, auto, AUX and off.
My dilemma is with the Heat and Aux, If I choose the Heat mode, does that mean the thermostat is forcing the system to use the compressor without the aux heat? If I choose the Aux mode, does that mean the system is going to run on Aux only?
I already set up all the other advanced settings that you explained when it comes to Aux and compressor such as the minimum temp and so on.
Thank you
Aux mode would be Aux only. Do not select that option. It would only be used if the customer had an issue with their primary heat (compressor). Aux bypasses the primary heat.
@@TECTubefilms
I was under the impression hat the heat mode will only operate compressor without the on-demand aux, but I was wrong. Thanks for clarifying that.
Strange that Ecobee has such a setting accessible to the consumer, which is essentially in the home screen, not a setting hidden in some kind of “Advanced Settings” menu.
Also amazed how Ecobee is probably one of the advanced thermostats when it comes to changing delicate settings, as seen in the Threshold menu. Did not see such options in the Nest.
Totally agree with you on the minimum compressor outdoor temp, should not be 35, and on the continuous fan operation setting when it comes to cooling vs heating. Thank you for the informative video.
How does this thermostat determine outdoor temp? A remote sensor? Or over internet?
internet broadcast
I've got a heat pump, and I've got 8 wires coming out of the wall, that were hooked up to the existing/old Honeywell thermostat.
With the ecobee premium instructions, i only see clear details on what to do with 5 of the wires...
Any suggestions?
I've looked & looked for a video of someone who has a heat bump, installing this ecobee premium, but have been unable to find an installation instruction video.
You need to know what the other end of each of those 8 wires connects to specifically in order to determine if ecobee can handle this situation. Ecobee has wiring diagrams for as many as 10 wires. You have your 5 traditional wires (G, Y1, W1, Rc, C) and then 2nd stage heat (W2), 2nd stage compressor (Y2), separate 24v for two transformer systems (Rh), and finally 1 or 2 wires for an accessory like a humidifier.
Also, with heat pump should thermostat be in heat mode or auto in winter and what is the difference
Auto allows the thermostat to run either heating or cooling. Some people never want to touch the stat and just let it choose. Other people like to put it in heat for the winter and cool for the summer (although in the spring and fall they end up manually having to swap between the two)
I have problems with my wecobee4 i not Getting the electric heat and the heat pump to work together, what could I be doing wrong in the thermostat programming because the connections are correct and I connected another smart thermostat and it worked fine but I love my ecobee4 and I would like to be able to connect it.

I have a hydro air unit with a heatpump installed and I set up the ecobee4 as a furnace instead of boiler operation because I need the fan since it's not baseboard. If I set it up as a boiler is there a way to have the fan turn on after a delay so the pipe heats up first? Right now when it calls for heat the fan turns on before the water coil gets to temp so I didn't know if theres a way to adjust that at the stat instead of installing an aqua stat
When installing it to control a "furnace" you are given the choice of letting the furnace control the fan or letting ecobee control the fan. If the furnace controls the fan, the normal fan delay will occur which allows the system to heat up first. But this delay is managed by the furnace circuit board, not the stat. If you configure it to let ecobee control the fan for heat mode, then G is energized immediately with W. There is no option to add a delay.
@@TECTubefilms that's what I thought. Thanks for answering my question
I have a very simple set up the furnace is in the basement and is stage 1,the Compressor aux is set to default of 35 should I change it down to the teens or will it matter for my setup?
Assuming that your Aux heat is electric resistance heating, then yes we would recommend running the compressor as low as the manufacturer will allow. 35 is too high. Depending on the brand, this could be -10, 0, or even +10 degrees. We have never seen a unit that cannot run down to at least +17.
I just moved into a house with a heat pump for the first floor and a gas furnace just for the first floor. Currently i have a “dumb” thermostat that’s just running on emergency heat so we’re only using the gas furnace. Is this more cost effective? Also is this possible to do with an Ecobee?
If you are asking if it is more cost effective to run the gas heat or the heat pump, that answer varies based on the efficiency of the furnace, the model of the heat pump, the cost of gas where you live, and the cost of your electric. You (or someone) needs to calculate both the thermal balance point and the economic balance point. You or your HVAC tech may want to check this out - ua-cam.com/video/VFe_3KzqX1M/v-deo.html
Yes, ecobee can handle a dual fuel system that is heat pump and gas furnace. Once you know the thermal and economic balance points for your specific scenario, you can set those in ecobee and it will automatically switch between your two heating systems based on the outdoor air temp.
wonder if anyone can give me some guidance. new hvac system put in, ecobee is wired in two stage aux heat W1 (ecobee) W1 (air handler), W2 (ecobee) W2 (air hander). I like the reverse staging, since I don't have to turn on all of the heat kit if within a margin of my set point, however, the Heat Pump is only connected to W1 of the air handler, so when the heat pump goes into defrost mode, it only turns on half of my heat kit (bascially stage 1) which is not hot enough in defrost mode and the house actually cools down again during defrost ? In normal single stage W1, they would jumper W1 and W2 in the air handler to light up all heat strips, but that is disconnected to give me 2 stages on the ecobee. Any way I can have full aux heat (W1 and W2) when in defrost, but keep my staging from the ecobee ?
Will your particular system run all of the electric heat stages if the defrost from the heat pump energizes W2 instead of W1? Or does your specific indoor air handler need to receive W1 before W2?
@@TECTubefilms that would've been nice, but no. I actually have three inputs (W1 = 5kw, W2 = 10kw and W3 = 20kw), however, for W3 to work W2 must be active and for W2, W1 must be active. From factory W1 to W2 is jumped and W2 to W3 is jumped, so I reverted to that, so I can get the whole 20kw on defrost, but had to get rid of my Aux Staging unfortunately, only W1 from ecobee is now connected. It's a Lennox CBA38MV
So on dual fuel system (gas furnace back up)
It will automatically switch between HP and furnace?
Do I need to add a separate sensor so it can see outdoor temp?
Yes, it is automatic dual fuel changeover based on outdoor temp. No, there is no sensor that needs to be installed. ecobee gets the outdoor temp data via the Internet.
so how does the thermostat sense the outside ambient temp for the aux to kick in or for the compressor?? is there a seperate wire that goes from outside unit to new stat?????? thanks rj
It uses the outdoor temperature from the Internet. So make sure the stat is on Wi-Fi and that the street address is correct. There is no hardwired sensor to the outdoors.
Auxiliary heat is based on deviation from indoor setpoint just like primary heat. The outdoor temperature is used to disable Aux above a certain OA temp. That OA temp depends on how the heat pump was sized relative to the home and the specific model of heat pump. The thermal balance point needs to be calculated for each heat pump install and the resulting answer is generally between 15 and 35 degrees, which above you do not need Aux. OA is also sometimes used disable the compressor below an OA temp. This should be done based on the model of the heat pump and its COP at various OA temps. The answer is generally between -30 and +17 degrees.
Hey @TECTubefilms recently had our oil furnace replaced with a ducted modulating heat pump with auxiliary heating.
The installers have a 7-wire to the air handler connectted to R, C, G, Y/Y2, B, W1, E/AUX. With a jumper going from W1 to W2.
Would my ecobee be connected to R-R, C-C, G-G, Y/Y2-Y1, B-O/B, W1-W1 and E/AUX-W2?
Thanks
Probably, but it all depends on why they put that jumper between W1 and W2. And on your equipment, what does W1 control vs. what does E/AUX control.
Also, if the modulating heat pump has the ability to accept a Y2 command you may want to do that... but maybe not. Depends on the equipment. If that unit dumbs down the modulation with both Y1 and Y2, then do not do it. However, if that equipment still modulates with both, then you may want to separate Y1 and Y2 so you can have different indoor airflows to match the capacity better which means lower sound levels and better dehumidification.
The unit is a 48K Moovair with a 8/10Kw, connected to a honeywell T6 currently.
In the manual it states Y is first period cooling, Y/Y2 is a second period cooling W is heating operation, W1 electric heating operation 1, W2 electric heating operation 2, E/AUX is emergency heating. B is heating(four-way valve)
@@cowbell1315 Never heard of Moovair. What type of heating is W heating on that unit? If W1 is electric resistance and Y1+B is heat pump, then what are W and E/AUX? Do you have a 3rd and 4th source of heat? When you energize W or E, what specifically turns on?
@@cowbell1315 When you say the "manual" you are referring to the Moovair manual, correct? Don't look at the Honeywell T6 manual because does not apply in this discussion.
I have an Ecobee and sometimes the heat/heat aux will not come on. It sounds like it's trying to come on but the blower will not start up. I have a dual heating system and I think the Ecobee is confused. The heating guy thinks so also. I just don't know what to do to get Echobee to send the right signal to turn on the blower, when 90% of the time it works Help!!!!!
If it is "dual fuel," that means you have a gas furnace combined with a heat pump. When a furnace receives a call for heat on W1, it automatically turns its own fan on. However, when a heat pump receives a call for compressor on Y1 something else needs to tell the furnace fan to come by calling for G. Perhaps your ecobee is not setup to call for G on a heat call. So maybe the times you observe it working, it is in gas heat mode and the times it is not is because it is in heat pump mode.
The other possibility is that your system has tripped a safety, such as thermal cutout in the motor.
We are just speculating since troubleshooting without being there is extremely hard.
An electrical meter will be your best friend in determining the issue. ua-cam.com/video/FMevkhVDvuU/v-deo.html
An enery company installed this at a friend's house. She called me and said that she is getting a message that her auxiliary heat is running too long? I disabled the auxiliary and her furnace never comes on. She said it has been this way since the installation of the thermostat. The board on the furnace has a solid light as if it has no call to run. Any ideas?
That alert message is configurable. We think the default is 3 hours, but you can change it. The purpose of the message is to let you know that your 250-350% efficient air source heat pump is likely failed (or running ineffectively) and that your 100% efficient auxiliary electric heat is carrying the load by itself. If that message is received, the heat pump should be examined and tested.
We are not exactly sure what you did to disable the furnace, but if you disabled it then why would it come on. We assume that the furnace is the auxiliary heat in you example, correct? The heat pump is always the primary heat and then the auxiliary is either a gas furnace or it is an electric heater.
I have a 2 stage heat pump and a 2 stage gas furnace. Gas is much cheaper. Are there any suggestions to to optimal settings?
We call that a "Dual Fuel System" or a "Hybrid System." Depending the costs, it may make sense to simply shut the heat pump off. Where we are at gas is $0.72 and electric $0.15 (all taxes/fees averaged in) so once it is below 60F it usually doesn't make sense to run the heat pump anymore. Your HVAC guy should be able to do a calculation for a "thermal break point" and an "economic break point" and then set the ecobee's changeover point for the higher of those two. TBP is specific to your model of heat pump and your house. It is the outdoor temp at which the heat pump cannot generate enough heat anymore. The EBP is specific to your model of heat pump and your two fuel costs and is the outdoor temp at which the heat pump costs more to operate than the gas heat.
Thank you! I think I have the heat set like that. However the unit won’t let me set both the compressor and aux to reverse staging. Any suggestions there? My installer was not familiar with the reverse when I asked
@@skichler Newer software versions of ecobee since the video was made, have a setting for "manual" or "auto" control of the staging. You have to first turn it to manual, before you can enable features like reverse staging. It is on the same screen, just scroll back up a little.
Maybe I'm old school but if this unit does not allow for a wired outdoor temperature sensor how can it be properly setup for a dual fuel system with a heat pump and a gas furnace? How will it accurately know when it is 35 degrees outside (for example) and it is time to lock out the heat pump for auxiliary fuel? I just can't get my head around this. There must be an answer because there are now so few thermostats with the "S" terminals for an outdoor sensor. If the answer is that it relies on Internet weather to provide a local temperature for the heat pump lockout what happens if your Internet is down? How will your system know when it can switch from one mode to another?
Yes, most thermostats now use internet-based weather data for the current outdoor temp. If for some reason your internet is down, most stats will continue to use the most recent weather data it had. If you internet is only down for a couple of hours, then no problem. If for some reason your internet is down for multiple days, then you would have to manually switch the dual fuel. But honestly, if someone loses internet access for more than an hour they will likely be more freaked out in their life than if they lose heat. LOL
@@TECTubefilms Thats' a great explanation. Now I get it, thank you. And your right... I'd rather freeze than miss a single Kardasian moment! OMG!
My heat pump is a Carrier Infinity 25HNB5, what should I use as compressor min outdoor temperature? Specs says minimum outdoor air temperature for heating mode is -30F. Setting to 0 seems high, disabled risky and auto is undocumented. Thanks.
What is your auxiliary heat source? Electric resistance heat or dual fuel (gas, propane, oil)?
@@TECTubefilms Electric. I'm in Montreal so it can get pretty cold. The Fan coil is carrier FX4D.
@@simmmomom Since you have an all electric system, the heat pump is always less expensive to run than the electric heat. Therefore, let the heat pump run as stage 1 down to -30F and the electric will be stage 2.
@@simmmomom Oh... we understand your issue now... the right answer for your system is -30F, but the stat only goes down to 0F. Zero is appropriate for our climate because we are seldom every below that, but where you are at in Montreal, you want/need it to go lower. We would suggest that you select "disable" so ecobee does not lock out the heat pump at all (note: this is how things would have operated if you had a traditional thermostat anyway). Having ecobee do the lockout is a "belt and suspenders" type of thing. If you feel more comfortable with that extra layer of security, then select 0F. Zero will also reduce the times at which you need to use defrost, which can be a comfort issue.
@@simmmomom We will also add that your Carrier Infinity unit also has its own outside air temp (OAT) sensor built-in
How would i set auxerilery heat with my heat pump at the exact same time all the time?
We not are sure what you mean by setting auxiliary heat relative to time? Auxiliary heat would be set based on deviation from indoor set point, as well as OA lockout temp.
Do you have any experience using an Ecobee with a mini-split system by way of a dry contact?
Yes. Some mini-splits have an option (it is usually an accessory kit that is ordered) that can be used to wire them to a conventional thermostat like ecobee. Although when you do this, you lose features of the mini-split handheld remote such as the ability to redirect the louvers, dry cool functions, etc.
@@TECTubefilms thanks for the reply. I have an LG system and purchased a dry contact (PDRYCB3200) and can’t get my Ecobee 4 to communicate with the outdoor unit. The dry contact has a heat pump wiring diagram that sends only 5 wires to the Ecobee. Since my unit has a reversing valve defaults to cooling, I’m using the “B” wire arrangement. If I run the wires per the diagram, the “thermal” (LG’s designation) to the O/B socket at the thermostat - the unit tells me there needs to be a wire in the Y1 position. If I move the “thermal” to Y1, I don’t get the option to set up the heat pump. I’ve also attached a jumper from O/B and Y1 at the thermostat, set up the heat pump, but still no communication. Any ideas?
@@kurtpearson2336 We are not very familiar with LG products. We used to rep them about 15 years ago but we have not kept up to speed on their products since that divorce. We have never heard of a thermostat terminal designated as thermal. That seems odd. A normal thermostat... including ecobee... will have outputs of R (hot), C (common), G (fan), Y (cool), W (heat), and O/B (reversing valve). If you not have auxiliary heat (electric resistance, gas furnace, etc.), then you will not normally use W. So your 5 wires should be R, C, G, Y, and O/B.
@@kurtpearson2336 A quick Google search of PDRYCB300 yields wiring diagrams that look more like they are for integrating to a commercial building automation system than to a residential thermostat.
Looks like you need to setup Setting_SW to tell it if you have a conventional stat, a O reversing valve, or a B reversing valve.
Thanks . This helped a bunch
Can you prevent the heat pump from operating when the electric heat is engaged?
Why would you want to do that? Even at colder outdoor temps, most heat pump models are still twice the efficiency as electric resistance heating. You should use heat pump as the first stage of heat and then the electric heat can supplement it (not replace it) on colder days.
I'm trying to keep my heat lightly blowing constantly. I haven't figured out how to keep it on. My ecobee us connected to a furnace
Keep your heat blowing warm air on OR keep your fan on blowing regular temp air?
@@TECTubefilms warm air
@@mrbond9882 That would be a function of the furnace. If it is a standard single stage furnace, it can only be on (hot air) or off (no air or cool air). If it is a modulating gas furnace (with a different type of modulating stat and not ecobee), then it can ramp up and down and maintain consistently warm discharge air temperature at the registers.
I accidentally hit the reconfigure my ecobee and I'm afraid I've messed up everything, should I call a technician?
The furnace is on instead of the heat pump, and I dont know how to change it 😩
Yes, it sounds like you hired someone to configure it the first time so now that you are reconfiguring it you should probably have them do it.
Why would you want to run an air to air heat pump when it is 5 or 10 degrees? They will be very inefficient, even if technically capable. Maybe if you have resistance heating - I don't know. But with a gas furnace, I wouldn't set the switch-over point to anything less than 40 degrees and depending upon expected short term gas prices, I might even want to move tha tup to 50-5 degrees.
If the goal is efficiency, then the heat pump will always beat every furnace until the COP drops below 0.98 even for the best furnace. Depending on the model of heat pump, that might occur at -20 degrees or at +20 degrees (or anything else).
If the goal is to have lower energy bills, then you have to calculate the cost of the fuel. If you only have electric resistance heating, then the heat pump will always beat it out. If you have propane, gas, or oil, you have to do the math. We have another video on how to do the math.
Check out ua-cam.com/video/4oInrsjL_qQ/v-deo.html
@@TECTubefilms I will look for that video. Thanks!
@@kcgunesq We linked in that video above in these comments.
How do i put heat on auto?? Or does it turn off itself
You can put the stat in cool, heat, or auto. Auto means that it automatically switches between heating and cooling as the seasons change. In all 3 of those modes, once the room temp matches your desired setpoint, the heating or cooling would turn itself off.
Does this one compatible with just two wires 24 v
If you only have two wires, such as R & W for a heating-only application for an old boiler, then you will need an adapter such as the FAST-STAT CommonMaker in order to power the stat.
If you only have two wires, such as in a communicating system, then no it cannot be adapted unless you run new wires.
@@TECTubefilms thank you great info
Hi, good information! I heard the ecobee4 doesnt work well with Carrier. Is that true?
That is not true. We are both a Carrier distributor and an ecobee distributor. In fact, we buy our ecobee stats from Carrier. And Carrier offers consumer rebates for combos of Carrier furnaces and ecobee stats. They also have some joint business ventures together. Whomever told you they don't play nice is mistaken.
Maybe whomever told you that was specifically referring to modulating gas furnaces or to variable speed inverter compressor units. Those Carrier systems have anywhere between 5 and 61 stages of capacity. Since ecobee... and all other thermostat brands... can only control 2 stages, if you put ecobee on those systems it will work, but dumb them down to just 2 stages.
i just installed an ecobee thermostat and heat runs fine but when i swap to cool it still blows hot air... Any suggestions?
So many possible issues. But since you just installed this stat, it is likely a wiring error. Use electrical meter to troubleshoot. And if this is a heat pump, start with the reversing valve wiring to the thermostat based on your symptoms.
@@TECTubefilms Yes its a heat pump with heat strips. Do you know if ecobee is compatible with 2 h 1 c system?
@@dillonparker9018 Yes, it can control up to 2 stages of heat pump heat, up to 2 stages of electric resistance heat, and up to 2 stages of cooling all at the same time
You say no heat pump is rated for 35 degrees but I contacted customer service for the heat pump that is installed in the home we just bought and they said it is only rated to handle 35 degrees then a backup heat source would be required.
On super cold nights our heat pump runs for several hours straight unless we just turn on the aux heat to kick in at a smaller threshold.
What is the make and model of the heat pump? We can look it up if it is reasonably modern.
It’s a Goodman. I contacted their customer support and was told all their heat pumps are rated for 35 degrees Fahrenheit.
@@RebeccaMae1983 We cannot look up anything specific for you without knowing the model number of the unit. However, with that said, we just looked up a bunch of random Goodman models in the AHRI Directory (all manufacturers rate their equipment with AHRI) and every single one we looked at has rating data at both 47 and 17 degrees. We have never seen anyone ever rate a unit at 35 degrees. Goodman has 10,183 heat pump systems AHRI rated, so we would need to know your model number to give you a specific answer. You are also welcome to search at www.ahridirectory.org/NewSearch?programId=69&searchTypeId=1&productTypeId=3523
@@TECTubefilms gz140301kg
@@RebeccaMae1983 It is probably GSZ model. Don't think they have a GZ.
I don't like the way Ecobee program the O/B terminal. When it energize in Cool it stay energize for the rest of the season till you switch to heat mode.
not sure what you mean
How do I determine the aux heat max outdoor temperature for my GE AUH2436ZGDA heat pump? I can't find a minimum operating temperature for it. Thanks.
You would need to graph out the house load calc on the BTU/h output vs. OAT graph provided by the manufacturer in order to determine the Thermal Break Point. The answer is different for each brand... and each model series within that brand... and the sizes within that model series... and the specific load needs of the house.
Watch this other video starting at minute 30. ua-cam.com/video/VFe_3KzqX1M/v-deo.html
@@TECTubefilms thanks
@@TECTubefilms very helpful; thanks
Why is my electric heat running when my heat pump is cooling at the same time
If you just installed the thermostat, it is likely you setup the reversing valve incorrectly.
Tec Tube my Lineset is ice cold so my heat pump is cooling but my electric heat is on also
@@tynelson5502 FYI - One pipe of your lineset still gets cold when running in the heat mode... the system is just transferring heat from outside to inside in heat mode versus the opposite for cooling mode.
@@tynelson5502 We assumed you mean you were in a heat mode and the heat pump is accidentally running in cooling. That is the mot common issue when electric heat runs during cooling. Your issue is different.
You will need to do the following:
1) determine if your thermostat thinks it is calling for heating or cooling right now
2) use electrical meter to make sure the equipment is receiving the correct contact closures from the thermostat
Then you will know if you need to troubleshoot the thermostat setup, the wiring, or the equipment.
Seems like any device that won’t work properly without an internet connection is a weak point. I’d rather it have fallback defaults just in case.
Ecobee thermostats can work without an internet connection. The biggest "issue" you might have with no internet would be the lack of outdoor air temp reading for a heat pump. In that case, it would do like you suggest and it would still run in a default mode. It will use the last OA reading until the internet connection is restored. If you lose internet access for more than a couple of hours, the occupants will likely be more concerned about no internet to their other devices than they are about their heat pump running inefficiently. LOL But in any case, they will still have operable heat. It is not like their heat shuts off or anything like that.
So many settings and yet there is no support for 2-3 speed fan
That is less of a thermostat issue and more of a furnace circuit board issue. Right now, we are not aware of any furnaces on the market that have inputs on their boards to accept fan speed commands from a thermostat. The only furnaces that allow fan speed adjustment from the stat do so with a proprietary communication cable between their "communicating wall control" and the furnace, not with relays like a standard stat would have. Check out our video series on Infinity, Evolution, or Ion controls for examples of how these are wired and operate.
@@TECTubefilms I have Whalen fan coil unit and it has a 2 speed fan controlled by thermostat. So my choice was install Ecobee with single speed or go with Nest that supports up to 3 speeds
@@IYG-x7c We are familiar with Whalen, as we are the Whalen rep here in Chicago. That type of commercial fan coil equipment is uncommon (relative to furnaces) and hence normal thermostats do not support direct fan speed control. Thank you for the info on nest. We were not aware that the most current version of nest added extra terminals to support a G1, G2, and G3 fan signals instead of just a single G signal. We will research it.
@@IYG-x7c Upon further research (aka a quick Google search), it looks like nest did not add extra terminals for G2 and G3. Instead, you can reprogram your Y2 to act as G2, which means that once you decide to control fan speed with nest, you can no longer use nest on a 2 stage cooling system. And it re-purposes the * terminal as G3, which means that nest can no longer control a humidifier, a dehum sequence, a 3rd stage of heat, or heat pump emergency heat. In the case of a high rise condo using commercial chilled water fan coils or water source heat pumps, this is likely acceptable because 2 stage cooling and humidifiers are not common anyway. But for the majority of single-family homes with furnaces, residential fan coils, or air source heat pumps, nest will still not be able to control fan speeds.
@@TECTubefilms Yes, using Y2 for 2nd speed. Nest basically controls it automatically, if temp difference is greater then X then it turns high speed, otherwise it's running on low. Works great except that Nest ambient temperature sensor is +5F more then actual. I think Ecobee has an adjustment for this as well as my previous Honeywell, not Nest. Very annoying because have to always deduct 5.
really.
This is the worst system ever! I just bought my first house and tonight is my first night in it and I’m roasting!
Roasting? Are you saying the heat is running and won’t shut off? What is happening? What is your heat setpoint and what is the actual temp in the space per the stat? Heat pump or gas furnace? Brand new house or just new to you?
@@TECTubefilms we don’t have internet yet. The internet won’t be connected until this Tuesday. When we turn on the system and have the cool setting on warm air blows out. Is there a way to get it to blow cold without having internet?
The stat does not need the Internet to operate. Are you trying to run cooling? Is it a heat pump? Is it brand new house and HVAC system?
@@TECTubefilms had the hvac people come to set it up. I was just a weetard and couldn’t figure it out lol
I watched and huh?
Lol 🤣 .... I was like that first few times
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What model of ecobee is this stat ?
ecobee 4... but the setup for them is pretty much all the same
@@TECTubefilms will ecobee 3 lite work with a dual system . Like standard gas furnace and an out door heat pump ? Thank
@@Truthh4040 Yes, all ecobee models work with a dual-fuel heat pump system.
I have a mitsubishi system that came with a mitsubishi thermostat, the mitsubishi thermostat will not allow me to lower the temperature in heating mode below 63ﾟ. If I add in ecobee or other 3rd party thermostat will that allow me to drop the temperature in the house below 63ﾟ?
The ecobee thermostat can have a heating setpoint down to 45. However, we are unfamiliar with the options associated with Mitisubishi and if your unit can work with a 24vac stat.