Thanks for the shout-out! So it turns out a dying battery will get rid of ALL that noise from the Pigtone/Musiclily yet still retain all that fuzzy goodness. Unfortunately getting it to that state can take a while and it won't last for very long. Read on to find out how to get it perfect. The best solution is to use a dying battery simulator with a 9V DC adapter but unfortunately the majority of the ones sold online use a potentiometer that's rated way too high. Imagine the dial ranges from 7 o'clock (0V) to 5 o'clock (9V). The 10K Ohm resistance is so high that you can only sweep from 5 o'clock to about 4 o'clock and then the sound just drops out. There's not enough wiggle-room to fine tune it. Last week I replaced the 10K Ohm potentiometer with a 5K and now I can sweep down to noon with very usable results. I've got a 2K in the mail (arriving tomorrow!) that should allow fine tuning all the way down to about 9;30. Now once you find that sweet spot you can set it and forget it. It can also turn some regular pedals into a great fuzz. I'm using a cheap iSET Dumbler overdrive pedal and it's incredible. Just remember to use the 4-knob version and not the newer 3-knob with a toggle switch one. Cheers!
The greatest TV theme tune of all time? I think so (though the show scared the shit out of me as a little kid). Glad I did it justice for you. Cheers mate!
I have the Voodoo Octave and never used it without both switches on. It is now in my Draw of Disappointment. I should add that I'm a bass player. For guitarists this could be a cool pedal.
It completely lacks bottom end (mostly because of the two capacitors that are installed wrongly). Yes, probably the worst fuzz pedal you could ever use on bass. I love it because it cuts through a mix on guitar, but that's not helpful to you. Have you got a Cash Converters store nearby?
@@NewFalconerRecordsNot a hard fix, 2 film caps misplaced and a couple electrolytics reversed, pos lead grounded. There's also a problem child electrolytic in the octave circuit that's correct with the octave off but reversed with the octave on (or vice versa idr.) I solved the 'lytics problem installing bipolar in all those spots, the films is just a swap. People go beyond the fix as well and have come up with some lush circuits. The benefit over the Pigtone is the thru hold PCB.
It's hard to say. I got mine a while ago and it's definitely more nasal and lacking in bottom end compared to the Pigtone/Musiclily, but that's why I like it, 'cos it cuts through more. Both pedals are supposed to be based on the same circuit but there's a distinct difference for sure. I'm not technical in such matters, so I can't give you a definitive answer. It's possible that it still has the backwards diodes because I play more of the 60s style that sounds good with that harsh buzzsaw fuzz. I also noticed that a lot of earlier videos of the pedal had players trying to play more conventional rock or metal, and it fell short for them. I think it's a great fuzz pedal myself, both with and without the octave on, but it's pretty quirky. Thanks for your watching anyway. Cheers!
Good test - I think the suggestion is to bump up the Tone if you use the mid-cut in order to avoid the sound getting too muddy. Might see if I can get one second hand for cheap - just to test it out. A lot of people suggest a noise gate is needed for these pedals. If I don't like it, I have a friend who is handy with a soldering iron and I may get them to do the capacitor swaps. Although - I have seen many forum threads of stuff ups as well as picking up radio signals post swap.
I got mine a couple of years ago for $35 from ebay. It doesn't have the noise yours has, octave on or off. If mine is lacking bottom end because of something inside that is backwards I don't care it sounds pretty awesome to me.
Overall, the Joyo is better sounding (more musical) than the Pigtone. But when it comes to octave up single notes lead, the Pigtone is more pronounced (piercing). Thus, I would pick the Pigtone. Thanks for the great demo.
Don't know if you can solder but apparently the Joyo Voodoo octave has a few circuit errors, caps installed reverse polarity. Joyo made a similar boo boo with the Ultimate Drive (OCD). Anyway if you fix it you get yourself a pretty cheap Foxx Tone Machine. The Warm Audio company also did a pretty dope replica including the fuzzy velour on the casing.
Ah I didn't watch that far before commenting. Mine has the errors. I bought it went these pedals first hit the market maybe 2011 ish. Good pedal for the price in the past €30. Back than I was still studying so these were more than welcome.
I reckon you're right. The whole look of that pedal is crammed and squashed in to the max. The Musiclily looks really good in comparison, but they also got the Normal/Special modes mixed up.
Your comments about the graphics crack me up. I’m in the market for a new flanger, because even though I like the Joyo flanger I have, it is so ugly and uninspiring to look at.
These things matter, whether we like it or not. And your choice of the word "uninspiring" is a really good one. For example, I don't trust any chorus pedal that isn't blue. Simple as that. I'd recommend you check out the Rowin flanger, it's super cheap, but it does more of the crazy underwater sweep than the Joyo does. It's a micro pedal, it's black and looks incredibly boring, but it's pretty wild!
Great review. Thank you.
Thanks for the shout-out! So it turns out a dying battery will get rid of ALL that noise from the Pigtone/Musiclily yet still retain all that fuzzy goodness. Unfortunately getting it to that state can take a while and it won't last for very long. Read on to find out how to get it perfect.
The best solution is to use a dying battery simulator with a 9V DC adapter but unfortunately the majority of the ones sold online use a potentiometer that's rated way too high. Imagine the dial ranges from 7 o'clock (0V) to 5 o'clock (9V). The 10K Ohm resistance is so high that you can only sweep from 5 o'clock to about 4 o'clock and then the sound just drops out. There's not enough wiggle-room to fine tune it. Last week I replaced the 10K Ohm potentiometer with a 5K and now I can sweep down to noon with very usable results. I've got a 2K in the mail (arriving tomorrow!) that should allow fine tuning all the way down to about 9;30. Now once you find that sweet spot you can set it and forget it. It can also turn some regular pedals into a great fuzz. I'm using a cheap iSET Dumbler overdrive pedal and it's incredible. Just remember to use the 4-knob version and not the newer 3-knob with a toggle switch one. Cheers!
Thank you soooooo much for playing the Doctor Who theme. Made my day!
The greatest TV theme tune of all time? I think so (though the show scared the shit out of me as a little kid). Glad I did it justice for you. Cheers mate!
@@NewFalconerRecords Definitely the best theme. The show TILL scares me to this day sometimes.
@@theflatcapchap5917 Tom Baker's first three seasons are pure gold. He didn't need no zero room! 🤣
Great shirt. I bought the voodoo last year. I will check out turning the capacitor. Cheers from QLD.
I have the Voodoo Octave and never used it without both switches on. It is now in my Draw of Disappointment. I should add that I'm a bass player. For guitarists this could be a cool pedal.
It completely lacks bottom end (mostly because of the two capacitors that are installed wrongly). Yes, probably the worst fuzz pedal you could ever use on bass. I love it because it cuts through a mix on guitar, but that's not helpful to you. Have you got a Cash Converters store nearby?
@@NewFalconerRecords nearest Cashies is 14km away.
@@NewFalconerRecordsNot a hard fix, 2 film caps misplaced and a couple electrolytics reversed, pos lead grounded. There's also a problem child electrolytic in the octave circuit that's correct with the octave off but reversed with the octave on (or vice versa idr.) I solved the 'lytics problem installing bipolar in all those spots, the films is just a swap.
People go beyond the fix as well and have come up with some lush circuits. The benefit over the Pigtone is the thru hold PCB.
That joyo sounds better that the old videos of it, wonder if they fixed the diodes that were mounted backwards.
It's hard to say. I got mine a while ago and it's definitely more nasal and lacking in bottom end compared to the Pigtone/Musiclily, but that's why I like it, 'cos it cuts through more. Both pedals are supposed to be based on the same circuit but there's a distinct difference for sure. I'm not technical in such matters, so I can't give you a definitive answer. It's possible that it still has the backwards diodes because I play more of the 60s style that sounds good with that harsh buzzsaw fuzz.
I also noticed that a lot of earlier videos of the pedal had players trying to play more conventional rock or metal, and it fell short for them. I think it's a great fuzz pedal myself, both with and without the octave on, but it's pretty quirky.
Thanks for your watching anyway. Cheers!
The special mode seems to be a bit like the mid cut toggle on the Joyo, or the Fuzz 2 mode on the Super Fuzz, but not nearly as extreme.
Another great video. Thanks for really laying out the sounds you get by using the controls. Many people on UA-cam put it on 10 and there it is.
Great explanation
Good test - I think the suggestion is to bump up the Tone if you use the mid-cut in order to avoid the sound getting too muddy.
Might see if I can get one second hand for cheap - just to test it out.
A lot of people suggest a noise gate is needed for these pedals.
If I don't like it, I have a friend who is handy with a soldering iron and I may get them to do the capacitor swaps.
Although - I have seen many forum threads of stuff ups as well as picking up radio signals post swap.
I got mine a couple of years ago for $35 from ebay. It doesn't have the noise yours has, octave on or off.
If mine is lacking bottom end because of something inside that is backwards I don't care it sounds pretty awesome to me.
the voodoo octave is my go to fuzz pedal for bass
Overall, the Joyo is better sounding (more musical) than the Pigtone. But when it comes to octave up single notes lead, the Pigtone is more pronounced (piercing). Thus, I would pick the Pigtone. Thanks for the great demo.
Don't know if you can solder but apparently the Joyo Voodoo octave has a few circuit errors, caps installed reverse polarity. Joyo made a similar boo boo with the Ultimate Drive (OCD). Anyway if you fix it you get yourself a pretty cheap Foxx Tone Machine. The Warm Audio company also did a pretty dope replica including the fuzzy velour on the casing.
Ah I didn't watch that far before commenting. Mine has the errors. I bought it went these pedals first hit the market maybe 2011 ish. Good pedal for the price in the past €30. Back than I was still studying so these were more than welcome.
My Musiclily Fuzz doesn't have the noise issues your pigtone does.
try a jordan bosstone next
That Musiclily FffuuuzZZzzZz, at least mine, is really special. KillzZzzZzzzzZZZz.
Sounded on my end of the video like normal was octave up and special was octave down
The "special" was straight fuzz, no octave either way.
I bought the joyo goat purely because of the graphics, so there's that.
Just bought a joyo off marketplace for about 17 dollars
I think if the word pigtone wasn't over the bug it might look a bit better lol
I reckon you're right. The whole look of that pedal is crammed and squashed in to the max. The Musiclily looks really good in comparison, but they also got the Normal/Special modes mixed up.
Your comments about the graphics crack me up. I’m in the market for a new flanger, because even though I like the Joyo flanger I have, it is so ugly and uninspiring to look at.
These things matter, whether we like it or not. And your choice of the word "uninspiring" is a really good one. For example, I don't trust any chorus pedal that isn't blue. Simple as that.
I'd recommend you check out the Rowin flanger, it's super cheap, but it does more of the crazy underwater sweep than the Joyo does. It's a micro pedal, it's black and looks incredibly boring, but it's pretty wild!
I guess it's a spider for the "octa" reference. I like a spider for an octave fuzz, but not this...