This video set me on the path to fixing my table saw. I have the rebuild kit you showed from Amazon. I don’t know if you remember specifically, but can you tell me if the two bearings on the armature need to face in any particular orientation? I’ve looked at them and can’t see any reason why one side needs to face inward or outward. Thanks for any insight you might have.
I find it very interesting that you ask this question, as I wondered the same thing myself! After consideration though, I decided that it "probably" didn't matter much, as the bearings are sealed, and the most important contact surfaces are the outer-most (for the seat) and inner-most (for the shaft). Either way, the table saw I repaired is still running strong. I gave it to my nephew who has used it consistently while building a new house. 🙂
@@ToddMcMahon thanks for the response. I also couldn’t think of a reason why they would need to go on one way or another. I just installed the two armature bearings fairly easily (I put the armature in the freezer for a while first). Now I’ve moved on to the bearings inside the arbor housing but I can’t get the 4 machine screws out of the retaining plate. They are starting to strip out so I’ve got some wd40 soaking on them and may need to get an extractor tool. Thanks again for the video. I’m confident I’ll get the saw running again.
@@mrlaney62 - Check out these videos for some ideas to remove those stripped out screws: ua-cam.com/video/aSNRmxFUI5g/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/mJ2WeoF9t1k/v-deo.html
@@ToddMcMahon thanks again for more useful tips. While I awaited my Amazon delivery of a screw extraction kit, I went ahead and tried the tips in the videos. I got two of them out using the tape method but the other two were hopeless. Once the kit came, I got the other two out quickly. I just finished my project and the saw is up and running again! The only issue I ran into is the needle bearing. I changed all 4 bearings, but the needle bearing (pilot bearing / blind bearing) was tough. Someone who rated the rebuild kit on their reviews said to do the bread trick to get the bearing out. This involves putting bits of bread into the bearing then applying pressure with an object to force the bearing out. I ended up breaking a hole behind the bearing and on the arbor bracket (housing). Some JB Weld Steel Stick repaired the damage. Although the saw is running, I notice that if I pull the switch all the way up, it will only run intermittently. That part is no longer available but I will be checking around to see if I can replace it. Thanks again for the video and tips!
@@mrlaney62 - Well done. I have seen the "bread trick" in a couple videos but have never used it myself. Good to know that the backing of the bearing seat needs to be substantial to avoid damage from the forces applied using that method. I think the use of JB Weld to repair it was a good choice. Yes, from the description, I imagine that the switch will need to be replaced.
Since the base of the table saw is steel, I will presume that you are referring to the back cover of the motor which is plastic, and which has the seat for the rear bearing. Let me know if you are talking about something else. It is obvious that they do NOT want these tools lasting for 50 years or more (I use my Dad's old Table Saw, which is well over 50 years old!). There is really not much you can do if that rear motor cover is broken at the bearing seat. This being said, you "might" be able to fabricate a new bearing seat using JB Weld high temp or extreme temp, but you would need to protect the bearing somehow so you do not accidentally glue the bearing to the rear cover. If the plastic is broken someplace other that the bearing seat, you could probably use JB Weld and some straps (etc.) to fix that as well. Let me know what you decide to do - and be sure to take some pictures! Good luck! 🙂
To further reduce noise & vibration, i found a 1/8" foam strip placed between the removable table insert and the table greatly reduces the saw noise. Still working to further reduce the noise. Will advise.
Not an emergency "SawStop" functionality. Just some way for the blade to come to stop once power is turned off. Like a brake that is spring loaded, turn off power spring pulls in a brake. As I think about it it would take something on the back side of the motor shaft. And a lot more engineering for the design than the saw is worth. I’m too old to go out and buy a whole new saw for thousands of dollars. Thanks for the reply.
I imagine that you could probably set up a "Linear Solenoid" that pulls out of the way when the power is on; and have one end with a felt pad pressing against the side of the blade when the power is off (with a spring on the shaft, etc.). You would have to find a way to install it... build a sturdy frame that will withstand vibration, etc.; and you would need to provide it with power when the saw's power switch is in the ON position (Note that most of these solenoids run on ~ 5 to 12 VDC). Should be doable.... make your own project video and post it! :-) Shouldn't cost that much either!
Has anyone found a motor/blade stop system for craftsman 10” table saws with internal motor. My motor has to spin down, take about minute. I like the saw I’ve had it for 30 plus years.
I would think that this long spin-down is an indication of a great motor with really good bearings! Can't you just flip the blade cover back over the spinning blade, or lower the blade down beneith the table surface? Or am I misunderstanding you, and you want an emergency "SawStop" functionality?
Excellent! I've got this same thing, and the same problem. Now I know it's repairable.
I ended up gifting it to my nephew, who is building a new house. The saw is still going strong! :-) Good luck with your repair!
This video set me on the path to fixing my table saw. I have the rebuild kit you showed from Amazon. I don’t know if you remember specifically, but can you tell me if the two bearings on the armature need to face in any particular orientation? I’ve looked at them and can’t see any reason why one side needs to face inward or outward. Thanks for any insight you might have.
I find it very interesting that you ask this question, as I wondered the same thing myself! After consideration though, I decided that it "probably" didn't matter much, as the bearings are sealed, and the most important contact surfaces are the outer-most (for the seat) and inner-most (for the shaft). Either way, the table saw I repaired is still running strong. I gave it to my nephew who has used it consistently while building a new house. 🙂
@@ToddMcMahon thanks for the response. I also couldn’t think of a reason why they would need to go on one way or another. I just installed the two armature bearings fairly easily (I put the armature in the freezer for a while first). Now I’ve moved on to the bearings inside the arbor housing but I can’t get the 4 machine screws out of the retaining plate. They are starting to strip out so I’ve got some wd40 soaking on them and may need to get an extractor tool. Thanks again for the video. I’m confident I’ll get the saw running again.
@@mrlaney62 - Check out these videos for some ideas to remove those stripped out screws: ua-cam.com/video/aSNRmxFUI5g/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/mJ2WeoF9t1k/v-deo.html
@@ToddMcMahon thanks again for more useful tips. While I awaited my Amazon delivery of a screw extraction kit, I went ahead and tried the tips in the videos. I got two of them out using the tape method but the other two were hopeless. Once the kit came, I got the other two out quickly. I just finished my project and the saw is up and running again! The only issue I ran into is the needle bearing. I changed all 4 bearings, but the needle bearing (pilot bearing / blind bearing) was tough. Someone who rated the rebuild kit on their reviews said to do the bread trick to get the bearing out. This involves putting bits of bread into the bearing then applying pressure with an object to force the bearing out. I ended up breaking a hole behind the bearing and on the arbor bracket (housing). Some JB Weld Steel Stick repaired the damage. Although the saw is running, I notice that if I pull the switch all the way up, it will only run intermittently. That part is no longer available but I will be checking around to see if I can replace it. Thanks again for the video and tips!
@@mrlaney62 - Well done. I have seen the "bread trick" in a couple videos but have never used it myself. Good to know that the backing of the bearing seat needs to be substantial to avoid damage from the forces applied using that method. I think the use of JB Weld to repair it was a good choice. Yes, from the description, I imagine that the switch will need to be replaced.
How do you repair the base of the plastic is broken
Since the base of the table saw is steel, I will presume that you are referring to the back cover of the motor which is plastic, and which has the seat for the rear bearing. Let me know if you are talking about something else. It is obvious that they do NOT want these tools lasting for 50 years or more (I use my Dad's old Table Saw, which is well over 50 years old!). There is really not much you can do if that rear motor cover is broken at the bearing seat. This being said, you "might" be able to fabricate a new bearing seat using JB Weld high temp or extreme temp, but you would need to protect the bearing somehow so you do not accidentally glue the bearing to the rear cover. If the plastic is broken someplace other that the bearing seat, you could probably use JB Weld and some straps (etc.) to fix that as well. Let me know what you decide to do - and be sure to take some pictures! Good luck! 🙂
To further reduce noise & vibration, i found a 1/8" foam strip placed between the removable table insert and the table greatly reduces the saw noise.
Still working to further reduce the noise. Will advise.
"SOUNDS" like a good idea to me! 🙂
Not an emergency "SawStop" functionality. Just some way for the blade to come to stop once power is turned off. Like a brake that is spring loaded, turn off power spring pulls in a brake. As I think about it it would take something on the back side of the motor shaft. And a lot more engineering for the design than the saw is worth. I’m too old to go out and buy a whole new saw for thousands of dollars. Thanks for the reply.
I imagine that you could probably set up a "Linear Solenoid" that pulls out of the way when the power is on; and have one end with a felt pad pressing against the side of the blade when the power is off (with a spring on the shaft, etc.). You would have to find a way to install it... build a sturdy frame that will withstand vibration, etc.; and you would need to provide it with power when the saw's power switch is in the ON position (Note that most of these solenoids run on ~ 5 to 12 VDC). Should be doable.... make your own project video and post it! :-) Shouldn't cost that much either!
Do you have the blade guard attachment for this model? Mine doesn't seem to work properly.
Hi John, Once I had the motor repaired, I gave the saw to my nephew. Yes, it had a blade guard, but I removed it so it wouldn't get damaged.
Could you tell me where you got the bearings and the brushes?
I got them off of Amazon.com :-)
Has anyone found a motor/blade stop system for craftsman 10” table saws with internal motor. My motor has to spin down, take about minute. I like the saw I’ve had it for 30 plus years.
I would think that this long spin-down is an indication of a great motor with really good bearings! Can't you just flip the blade cover back over the spinning blade, or lower the blade down beneith the table surface? Or am I misunderstanding you, and you want an emergency "SawStop" functionality?