I'm 60 and I enjoyed working with the select few who contributed to a good environment of learning a better and higher standard of work and practice. I started at 15 years of age with a minor's release and with the example and direction from guy's like you I found each day of work was enriching and like a page in the the best book. There wasn't a day that went by I didn't learn something or made a friend or two along the way. Enjoyed the good and the bad we learn from both. Enjoyed the vid your on your way.
Great job, nobody talks about how to layout the roof so that your fascia trim doesn’t land on a rib and so your reveal between the rib and trim on each end is equal. Hay off to you sir, this is what people need, you have super extreme common sense, way better than being a smarty fart show off alike most on UA-cam.
The years I spent teaching roofers old and new on how to lay out a roof no matter what was going on if you give it a couple minutes and simple math the result will be worth the efforts and something you don't need to hide from when you drive past it again
I watch that video and I like how you commented on people saying looks good can't see from my house I hate that comment I'm with you everything's all about the detail good video keep up the good work have a blessed day my friend
OMG! first American roofer I've seen do a top of rib! I love you! Also those screws are cool, that dome would help with seal blow outs too. Our screws are 12g 50mm zip screws (they have a break in the thread to stop sheet stretching) but because we use pine purlins instead of decks we use impact drivers, so 0.5 seconds too long on the trigger and the seal blows out. Just the other day my young bloke gave me an hour of free labor because we did a quality control check on a 2000 rescrew job he did solo. 56 seal blow outs. Yesterday he did another. Not a single seal blow out, amazing what an hours free labour will teach you.
I like your thinking if there's a problem take the time to find a solution! There's to much of that F it Friday work that goes on and in the end it hurts us workers that care what our work looks like!!
Great work on the sheet placement. The amount of new builds I see where they either missed the rib, or buried right up against the right angle of the capping is nuts. Nothing worse than vibrating metal sheets on a windy night. Then having to tell them I need to secure a bit of wood running the length of the capping for something to screw the edge to.
Came across your video, which im glad you did it, cause I've been wondering why did the manufacturer recommen the screws be on the flat part of the panel. Made no sense to me. I've been doing zinc roofing for almost 26 years, and I have never put a screw in the water bed of a panel.
Totally agree Brian, take a couple minutes with basic math and get better results. I get question mark faces all the time while talking to some people that I install screws on the ribs HAHAHAHAHA Great video, info and details. Nice work! Got a like and subscriber Thanks.
@@GrandRoofingInc I've legitimately seen more people step, slip and thus hurt themselves on ropes, more than I've ever seen them save somebody. Most PPE code, especially for roofing, is often so unnecessary and impractical.
Great video and information as always, Thanks. I'd be interested to see how you secure a boot around a vent pipe coming up through one of the ribs, if that is unavoidable.
The boots have a moldable metal strip on the bottom with sealant on it. Mold the metal to the panel and screw it down through the metal strip and hose clamp the rubber to the pipe. Possibly a rain collar over the hose clamp.
How do you avoid condensation under the metal roof. Some people say it happens and some people say it’s doesn’t. In an example of installing furring strips and metal over a shingle roof, are there things that should be done or avoided to prevent condensation?
You don't measure your flashings to suit? Here in Australia, I run a metal roofing company, quiet different install from you guys, but we lay our roof and measure our flashings after to get that perfect cap at the end. But our roofs are different design then yours. Wish we could have our roofs with plywood ontop of rafters, would make it way easier. Keep up the good work enjoy watching how you guys roll over there 🤙
@111crazed as an Ozzie retired builder if we do the same as a lot of Americans do that is install ply on top of rafters and then install metal roofing into the ply I'm seeing a lot of the screws backing out of the ply and you as a roofing contractor would not last very long in the industry if that happened often.
Hey Brian, i am confused on one of your "worst roof ever" videos a year ago, metal roof /transaction realty inspection. The roof was incorrectly installed and just a mess. But i remember you had mentioned back then in that video that you never screw down on rib metal, and maybe over time you changed up your methods for metal install? Just a quick clarification on those two differences on your content. All in all, your a great man for bringing quality and informative content for us all, the Diy'er and for the beginner roofer on what not to do in some cases.have a good one. Be well man
I didn't do a lot of metal until I moved on from my previous employer. So just thinking about certain things and why they do what they do. I think there are more benefits by screwing through the rib than in the flat. My opinion is functionality over cosmetic. One downside to putting the screws through the ribs, if you're in a heavy snow load area they do catch the snow rakes a bit more. I'm not ashamed to say I'm still learning. Good catch and thanks for watching!
@@GrandRoofingInc Thank you brian. Always excited to see any new content you put out there for us. I just even go back to your older videos, and gotta love the short videos as well man. Great enthusiasm with it, lol. Stay busy and stay safe my brother.! 💪
Go to the manufacture site and you will find they say to install the screws in the flat 99% of the time, there are a few circumstances where they will say you can put the screws on the rib about 1%. The reason for this is because the wind lift tests are done with the screws in the flats, if you put the screws on the ribs the wind lift specs for the panel no longer apply and in many cases the panel warranty can be voided. If they did the wind lift testing with the screws on the ribs the panels would have a very low wind lift rating if not out right wind lift failure. If that roof was installed in Florida it would likely fail in a hurricane because the wind lift would distort the ribs until the panel failed. 5V roofs are the exception as the V is not vary high and the screw goes on top of the "V".
After drying it in we used a single bubble. At least that's what I call it, it's like shipping bubble wrap with a foil Palmer on one side to help reflect heat. Gives it a little bit of a smoothing and insulation value, as well as a little bit of noise dampening.
On standing seam metal roof I saw a local contractor pinch the ribs together at the gutter end for a nicer look. Is that something you do and could it be successfully done on metal roofs with 3/4" ribs? It looked nice on the standing seam. Thanks!
Use a dry line to mark my screws measure up like you said, put screws in halfway, and run that string line on each row, i don't like the chalk on the metal to much..
I’m doing a small shed 22x8x2 nothing really special as long as it’s shelter from the weather, I’ll like to hang on the sides the length of a rib on both ends, how can you measure to come up with a rib pass the fascia
is it a good idea to install a metal roof over an old asphalt roof? just make sure there are no leaks or bad sheeting??? i wonder if a metal roof would handle hurricane 140 plus winds as good as a decent asphalt roof??
While you can install some metal roofs over shingles it defeats one of the main selling points of a metal roof, that is a metal roof weighs less than a shingle roof. If you install a metal roof over shingles now you have the weight of the shingles plus the weight of the metal roof on your roof structure. Also not removing the shingles you do not get to inspect the plywood to see if there are any damaged/rotting pieces under the shingles. Strip off the shingles replace any rotted plywood and put down a peel and stick water barrier then install the metal roof and you will have a far better roof system. Also do not install the screws on the ribs like in this video, you are in a hurricane area and all the testing on the exposed fastener panels was done with the screws in the flats not on the ribs, the roof in this video would likely fail in a hurricane because of wind up lift, I can tell you right now the roof in this video no longer meets the wind uplift specs for the panels because they installed the screws on the ribs.
Great video and your delivery of knowledge is so fast and clear. I’m planning on re roofing our non heated detached garage. Here in Ontario Canada, the building code had all the roof trusses blocked at the ridge so cutting a ridge vent seems redundant. Your thoughts? Would I even need one since not heated?
I am not a roofer, but a metal roof won’t deteriorate from heat like an asphalt shingle will. If you use asphalt shingles, the manufacturer will require ventilation or they dishonor the warranty. I don’t think metal has the same issue. Just my opinion as a non-roofer.
While some metal roofs you can install them on top of shingles it defeats one of the main selling points of a metal roof and that is a metal roof is lighter. If you install it over shingles you have the weight of the shingles plus the weight of the metal roof being supported by the roof structure. You don't save that much money by not removing the shingles plus you can replace any damaged plywood that is found under the shingles, once the roof is down to good plywood you put peel and stick water barrier on it then you install the metal roof. The peal and stick water barrier acts as a sound damper so the rain sounds no different on the metal roof than it does on a shingle roof. Also the peel and stick water barrier helps to seal the screw as it penetrates the roof into the plywood.
Excellent but use a string line on screw location chalk I don't like put your screws in your facia at your desired measurements loop it and go one run after another it's much cleaner and accurate thanks I really like your attention to detail it's important to those that really care
Those are called ZAC screws you can find them on SFS website for more information. They have a shoulder to shield the EPDM washer and are called a limited life time screw. The can last for 20 to 30 years before you need to replace them with the next larger size, a galvalume panel is rated for 65 years, he has painted panels on that roof in the video so they could be just a steel panel or they could be a galvalume panel, if galvalume they will cost more so I suspect they are just a steel painted panel.
I have a section of gable overhange that is sagging. The overhang is about 9 inches. I am having a metal roof put on that will be going on 1x4" purlins spaced at 24" on the plywood sheathing. I want to better support the overhang and pull it up about an inch at the end. Will the 1x4's purlins pull it up? Could/should I use 3/4 leg C channel along several purlins to get better support? Other ideas? Thanks!
Only being 9" what you're talking about would probably work. Without seeing it what I would probably do before doing the roof would be removing some decking and actually using lumber to frame in a new fly rafter.
@@GrandRoofingInc Thanks for the reply! The roofing contractor said he'll look at the sheathing in that area to see if it will need replaced. I think I'll insist that he pull up the sheathing in that area to inspect/repair. If I knew exactly when the crew was to show up and we were going to have sunny days before-hand I'd pull it up myself and repair. Is repair like you said usually within a roofing crews ability?
@@ChopstickOW yes of course, I’m just asking because health and safety in the uk is mad strict! If we was found to do stuff like this competent or not they come down heavy on us
@@sammacguffie5234 Oh I apologize. Yeah here in Canada they’re a bit more relaxed but every now and then there will be a safety guy that shuts you down. We have fall arrest but often times it isn’t necessary and gets in the way. I can imagine setting up and tearing down scaffolding every day would get old quick but for some jobs it would be nice to have.
First time I've seen steel laid directly on a reflective barrier. There's really no reason to put it down if there isn't an air space between the roofing and the barrier as it won't provide any insulation value.
@@Outd00rFishing A peel and stick water barrier would have done the same thing, we have a metal roof with peel and stick water barrier and the rain is no more noisy than it was with the shingle roof that was replaced.
I guess you don’t do barn roofs then because external fasteners should not be used on homes. External fasteners will always fail due to expansion and contraction of the metal they pin down. I like my snap lock standing seam metal roof. Who wants to get up on a roof every year to look for loose screws like the manufacturer recommends for exposed fasteners?
These new style screws work far better, they have a shoulder to protect the EPDM washer, the threads are designed to make it harder for the screws to back out and they are considered limited life time screws by the manufactures. Will you have to replace them at some point with the next larger size? Yes but that is 20 to 30 years down the road. The screw showed is a ZAC screw. If you use galvalume metal panels the panels are rated for 65 years so you will replace the screws once or twice the life of the roof for 60 years of service. All roofs should have an annual inspection done on them.
@@mustangecoboosthpp3869 No, not all roofs should have an annual inspection on them. Expose metal fastener roofs recommend yearly inspection due to known issues with screws due to metal expanding and contracting causing points of entry for rain water. He’ll never convince me exposed metal fasteners are good for homes.
@@calvinreichelderfer7989 Go ahead and don't do a quick inspection of your roof and after you neglect it for 5 or 6 years and you develop a leak that you did not discover for a couple of years and now you have rotten plywood don't go complaining to anyone.
@@mustangecoboosthpp3869 i haven’t gone up on my roof since 2018 when I had non exposed metal roof installed. Prior to that I had a shingle roof which I only went up on when it was about 18 years old when some shingles blew off my roof. I replaced the shingles. I would never recommend ignoring shingles or parts of shingles on the ground. I didn’t have any issues with roof deck. I would never have an exposed fastener metal roof that has to be inspected because there are thousands of screws penetrating the roof which need to be watched for loosening and metal expansion contraction, causing gaps around the screws. Every screw that penetrates the metal roofing is a possible leak. I don’t need to inspect my roof because I don’t have thousands of screws directly through the metal roof. I work installing roofs for a few years when I was young.
@@mustangecoboosthpp3869 I don’t need to look at my roof. It’s all metal unexposed fasteners. New in 2018. I had an old shingle roof replaced, which had gone bad, but I still didn’t need to inspect my roof yearly because I didn’t have thousands of screws gone directly through my roof like an exposed metal fastener roof has. I had replaced a few shingles that blew off my roof prior to having it replaced. Roof decking was not affected if you have a bunch of screws going through your roof exposed metal fasteners, you must inspect the roof yearly and you must look at every screw head to look for gaps loosening around the screwheads. I would never have that on my home because who wants to inspect the roof yearly I want to put my roof on. I know it’s good for 20 or 30 or 50 years. You can’t just look up at an exposed metal fastener roof. You must go up onto the roof and look at the screwheads. It’s much easier to look up at a shingle roof and see if there’s any blown off shingles or exposed nail heads, most of the times you’ll find shingles on the ground that will alert you to damage on your shingle roof, but not with the exposed metal fastener roof you will have to look at each screw head. When I was young, I worked on roof installing shingles, metal rubber and we did hot tar work also. I would never tell anyone to get a metal roof with exposed fasteners. I would prefer shingles over exposed fast and metal roofs.
If you go to the panel manufacture they will tell you on this style of panel to put the screws in the flat not on the ribs. The reason for putting the screws in the flats is for wind lift testing, they do the wind lift testing with the screws the flats if you put the screws on the rib the wind lift specs are no longer valid. 99% of this style panel the manufacture says put the screws in the flat, only 1% of the time will they ok putting the screws on the rib. 5V panels are the exception to that as the screws go on the top of the "V". The way this roof was installed would more than likely fail in a hurricane. That is a EPDM washer on that screw by the way.
Hey, I have our roof replaced but the contractor we used hasn’t finished the flashing for a month and is not returning our calls now. I’m honestly at this point thinking of doing it myself. I had three no call no shows with other people. I’m pretty handy but with this being said on a rectangle shaped roof what would be the easiest to install? I currently of steel but shingles seem easier but wanted a professional opinion. Also anyway I can tell if my roof can handle the weight of osb? Because it currently doesn’t have any. And will the osb correct any waves currently in the roof? Sorry lots of questions but I am out of options.
@@GrandRoofingInc no, it is fully I stalled aside from where the leaking around the chimney is; where the flashing isn’t Installed and also in a random spot, which I suspect to be from a screw for some reason.
That is what the manufacture will say for 99% of installs, only about 1% do they say you can put the screw on the rib. The roof in this video would likely fail in a hurricane, while it sounds like the area this roof is installed at does not have hurricanes I would never install the screws on the ribs unless it is one of the limited examples approved the panel manufacture.
5 People Working You Do In 2 Days And You Charge More Than 50,000 Dollars, I Made The Same Job In One Day With 2 People And Charge Only 15,000 Same House As You Do In This Video. Amén.
absolutely not! Putting screws in the ribs is absolutely shit! The roof maintenence should include rescrewing when it breaks down. Goind through the rib you NEVER get the strength of a true bond without risking denting in the metal. I am actually flabbergasted that you say this lol! Just wow dude.
Metal roof panel manufactures will say to put the screws in the flats 99% of installs, only about 1% do they say you can put the screw in the rib for PBR style panels. All the wind lift testing is done with the screws installed on the flats, so when this installer put the screws on the ribs he invalidated the wind lift specifications for the panel. The roof in this video would likely fail in a hurricane because of wind lift flexing the panels which would cause the screw to fail and or the panel to pull through the screw. 5V style panels are the exception as manufactures will say to install the screw on the "V" not the flat. But the "V" is not very high on a 5V style panel.
External fasteners metal roof should not be used on homes because the expansion and contraction of the metal panels eventually pull the screws out far enough to allow water to penetrate. The metal manufacturers actually recommend inspecting screw heads every year because of this obvious weakness. The metal panels will by far outlast the screw heads being moved out of place. So many people are having these roofs put on. I predict many it not all will regret this kind of roof system if they stay in the house 5-10 years. Leak city. No roofer with any experience and knowledge would install this type roof on their own house. Shingles would be better. If you want metal pay up for standing seam no exposed/external fasteners. You talk about basic math but what about basic science, expansion and contraction will wiggle the external fasteners out and break the seal on the screw head. Believe it or not, it’s the truth. External fasteners metal roofs are good for barns and animal shelters not homes.
False, exposed fastener roofs are fine on homes, they are some of the more popular metal roofs now, I think roofers don't like them because they have to use only top of the line screws and products on them where on snap lock and even mechanical seam roofs they can get away with skimping on the quality of the clips and screws because they are hidden from the home owner. Further Snap Lock metal roofs are the worst preforming metal roofs in hurricanes according to FEMA in the after storm inspections. Snap lock take a little longer to install than exposed fastener and mechanical seam takes even longer and for every hour the roofer is on the job they make more money off the job, remember there is a profit margin built into the labor charge of the job just like there is a profit margin for the materials for the job. The longer the labor takes the more profit the roofer makes. A quality exposed fastener roof using galvalume panels rated for 65 years, top of the line ZAC screws with shoulders and EPDM washers and quality peel and stick water barrier will take 1 1/2 days to install. Add a day for the tear off of the old shingle roof in most cases and the install of the peel and stick water barrier so in 2 1/2 days you can have a quality metal roof on your home. Just make sure you find a roofing company that cares about their reputation, uses top of the line products and has their own crew to do the work. Many roofing companies go by parking lots or home depot/lowes and pick up illegals to do the work and they don't know what they are doing, that is where your problems start. If you use cheap screws on an exposed fastener roof you will have problems but while the quality ZAC screws are more expensive it does not add that much cost to the job but many roofers will use the cheapest of everything to boost their profit. The new style ZAC screws not only have a shoulder on the head to protect the EPDM washer but the threads are designed to help keep the screws from backing out.
Or you could learn how to properly install exposed fastener roofs using only top of the line quality screws and panels, the problem is to many roofers buy the cheapest screws they can find and they will fail. Many roofers do not like exposed fastener metal roofs because they are faster to install and they do not make as much profit installing an exposed fastener roof.
I'm 60 and I enjoyed working with the select few who contributed to a good environment of learning a better and higher standard of work and practice. I started at 15 years of age with a minor's release and with the example and direction from guy's like you I found each day of work was enriching and like a page in the the best book. There wasn't a day that went by I didn't learn something or made a friend or two along the way. Enjoyed the good and the bad we learn from both. Enjoyed the vid your on your way.
That upgraded screw is a great idea
Great job, nobody talks about how to layout the roof so that your fascia trim doesn’t land on a rib and so your reveal between the rib and trim on each end is equal.
Hay off to you sir, this is what people need, you have super extreme common sense, way better than being a smarty fart show off alike most on UA-cam.
The years I spent teaching roofers old and new on how to lay out a roof no matter what was going on if you give it a couple minutes and simple math the result will be worth the efforts and something you don't need to hide from when you drive past it again
I watch that video and I like how you commented on people saying looks good can't see from my house I hate that comment I'm with you everything's all about the detail good video keep up the good work have a blessed day my friend
OMG! first American roofer I've seen do a top of rib! I love you!
Also those screws are cool, that dome would help with seal blow outs too. Our screws are 12g 50mm zip screws (they have a break in the thread to stop sheet stretching) but because we use pine purlins instead of decks we use impact drivers, so 0.5 seconds too long on the trigger and the seal blows out.
Just the other day my young bloke gave me an hour of free labor because we did a quality control check on a 2000 rescrew job he did solo. 56 seal blow outs.
Yesterday he did another. Not a single seal blow out, amazing what an hours free labour will teach you.
Standing seam is the way to go
Love that textured finish on them panels! 👍
It is nice, but it will take more time for snow to slide off.
@@akaredcrossbowand dirt built up
Your a good roofer not just a owner impressive
Great video
Layout is so important
Dang that guy's back yard looks like a Xmas tree lot. Nice neighborhood!
Thanks. Very informative. I’ll be back to watch again in a couple of weeks.
Nice to see you on a full job. post more of these.
I like your thinking if there's a problem take the time to find a solution! There's to much of that F it Friday work that goes on and in the end it hurts us workers that care what our work looks like!!
“Can’t see it from my house” is a thing one of my old work partners used to say all the gd time funny asf
Great work on the sheet placement. The amount of new builds I see where they either missed the rib, or buried right up against the right angle of the capping is nuts. Nothing worse than vibrating metal sheets on a windy night. Then having to tell them I need to secure a bit of wood running the length of the capping for something to screw the edge to.
Learning a lot watching your channel
😎👍
Came across your video, which im glad you did it, cause I've been wondering why did the manufacturer recommen the screws be on the flat part of the panel. Made no sense to me. I've been doing zinc roofing for almost 26 years, and I have never put a screw in the water bed of a panel.
Totally agree Brian, take a couple minutes with basic math and get better results.
I get question mark faces all the time while talking to some people that I install screws on the ribs HAHAHAHAHA
Great video, info and details.
Nice work! Got a like and subscriber
Thanks.
Great job on your video keep up the good work I really enjoyed it 👍🙏
Invisible harness cost way more but only if you fall
Yes that's why when I'm on something high up or steep, I wear my colored harness.
@@GrandRoofingInc I've legitimately seen more people step, slip and thus hurt themselves on ropes, more than I've ever seen them save somebody.
Most PPE code, especially for roofing, is often so unnecessary and impractical.
Great video and information as always, Thanks. I'd be interested to see how you secure a boot around a vent pipe coming up through one of the ribs, if that is unavoidable.
The boots have a moldable metal strip on the bottom with sealant on it. Mold the metal to the panel and screw it down through the metal strip and hose clamp the rubber to the pipe. Possibly a rain collar over the hose clamp.
How do you avoid condensation under the metal roof. Some people say it happens and some people say it’s doesn’t. In an example of installing furring strips and metal over a shingle roof, are there things that should be done or avoided to prevent condensation?
What shoes do you use on metal roofs?
Thanks for the info, all good info.
You don't measure your flashings to suit? Here in Australia, I run a metal roofing company, quiet different install from you guys, but we lay our roof and measure our flashings after to get that perfect cap at the end. But our roofs are different design then yours. Wish we could have our roofs with plywood ontop of rafters, would make it way easier.
Keep up the good work enjoy watching how you guys roll over there 🤙
@111crazed as an Ozzie retired builder if we do the same as a lot of Americans do that is install ply on top of rafters and then install metal roofing into the ply I'm seeing a lot of the screws backing out of the ply and you as a roofing contractor would not last very long in the industry if that happened often.
Hey Brian, i am confused on one of your "worst roof ever" videos a year ago, metal roof /transaction realty inspection. The roof was incorrectly installed and just a mess. But i remember you had mentioned back then in that video that you never screw down on rib metal, and maybe over time you changed up your methods for metal install? Just a quick clarification on those two differences on your content. All in all, your a great man for bringing quality and informative content for us all, the Diy'er and for the beginner roofer on what not to do in some cases.have a good one. Be well man
I didn't do a lot of metal until I moved on from my previous employer. So just thinking about certain things and why they do what they do. I think there are more benefits by screwing through the rib than in the flat. My opinion is functionality over cosmetic. One downside to putting the screws through the ribs, if you're in a heavy snow load area they do catch the snow rakes a bit more. I'm not ashamed to say I'm still learning. Good catch and thanks for watching!
@@GrandRoofingInc Thank you brian. Always excited to see any new content you put out there for us. I just even go back to your older videos, and gotta love the short videos as well man. Great enthusiasm with it, lol. Stay busy and stay safe my brother.! 💪
Go to the manufacture site and you will find they say to install the screws in the flat 99% of the time, there are a few circumstances where they will say you can put the screws on the rib about 1%. The reason for this is because the wind lift tests are done with the screws in the flats, if you put the screws on the ribs the wind lift specs for the panel no longer apply and in many cases the panel warranty can be voided. If they did the wind lift testing with the screws on the ribs the panels would have a very low wind lift rating if not out right wind lift failure. If that roof was installed in Florida it would likely fail in a hurricane because the wind lift would distort the ribs until the panel failed. 5V roofs are the exception as the V is not vary high and the screw goes on top of the "V".
What's that shiny silver material on the one deck?
After drying it in we used a single bubble. At least that's what I call it, it's like shipping bubble wrap with a foil Palmer on one side to help reflect heat. Gives it a little bit of a smoothing and insulation value, as well as a little bit of noise dampening.
@@GrandRoofingInc here in Australia we call it sarking, but ours is a bit different, alfoil lined fiberglass instead of air.
Awesome work!!
Do you guys not use the butyl tape on each panel overlap?
Good morning balls thanks again
How would your chalk method change if you were on a higher pitched roof?
On standing seam metal roof I saw a local contractor pinch the ribs together at the gutter end for a nicer look. Is that something you do and could it be successfully done on metal roofs with 3/4" ribs? It looked nice on the standing seam. Thanks!
If you ever come across a tin roof with a wood stove flashing I’d be interested!
Use a dry line to mark my screws measure up like you said, put screws in halfway, and run that string line on each row, i don't like the chalk on the metal to much..
I am in Canada, Nova Scotia, had our worse hurricane ever 2 years ago and no issues
I’m doing a small shed 22x8x2 nothing really special as long as it’s shelter from the weather, I’ll like to hang on the sides the length of a rib on both ends, how can you measure to come up with a rib pass the fascia
I'm not quite sure what you're asking? Are you talking about hanging the panel over the gable ends the width of a rib?
Thank you
is it a good idea to install a metal roof over an old asphalt roof? just make sure there are no leaks or bad sheeting??? i wonder if a metal roof would handle hurricane 140 plus winds as good as a decent asphalt roof??
Yes
No it’s a bad idea to put metal over asphalt because it adds more weight and stress to the rooftop and holds in moisture.
While you can install some metal roofs over shingles it defeats one of the main selling points of a metal roof, that is a metal roof weighs less than a shingle roof. If you install a metal roof over shingles now you have the weight of the shingles plus the weight of the metal roof on your roof structure. Also not removing the shingles you do not get to inspect the plywood to see if there are any damaged/rotting pieces under the shingles. Strip off the shingles replace any rotted plywood and put down a peel and stick water barrier then install the metal roof and you will have a far better roof system. Also do not install the screws on the ribs like in this video, you are in a hurricane area and all the testing on the exposed fastener panels was done with the screws in the flats not on the ribs, the roof in this video would likely fail in a hurricane because of wind up lift, I can tell you right now the roof in this video no longer meets the wind uplift specs for the panels because they installed the screws on the ribs.
Great video and your delivery of knowledge is so fast and clear. I’m planning on re roofing our non heated detached garage. Here in Ontario Canada, the building code had all the roof trusses blocked at the ridge so cutting a ridge vent seems redundant. Your thoughts? Would I even need one since not heated?
I am not a roofer, but a metal roof won’t deteriorate from heat like an asphalt shingle will. If you use asphalt shingles, the manufacturer will require ventilation or they dishonor the warranty. I don’t think metal has the same issue.
Just my opinion as a non-roofer.
What was the pitch of that roof? I’m guessing it’s a 6/12. I’m trying to find out if a 6/12 would be hard to walk on if it had that steel roofing.
i seen some people just put wood strips on top of the shingles and then screw metal roof on top of it. Is that ok too or is that a hack job?
While some metal roofs you can install them on top of shingles it defeats one of the main selling points of a metal roof and that is a metal roof is lighter. If you install it over shingles you have the weight of the shingles plus the weight of the metal roof being supported by the roof structure. You don't save that much money by not removing the shingles plus you can replace any damaged plywood that is found under the shingles, once the roof is down to good plywood you put peel and stick water barrier on it then you install the metal roof. The peal and stick water barrier acts as a sound damper so the rain sounds no different on the metal roof than it does on a shingle roof. Also the peel and stick water barrier helps to seal the screw as it penetrates the roof into the plywood.
I'm hoping for a finish video
Question.... How do I get you to come to Memphis to put a roof on for me?
what is the brand on those panels?
Why are you not using any strapping On the decking
I was wondering the same thing. We always strap the roof every 2 feet all the way up.
Excellent but use a string line on screw location chalk I don't like put your screws in your facia at your desired measurements loop it and go one run after another it's much cleaner and accurate thanks I really like your attention to detail it's important to those that really care
How come you dont turn up the sheets at the ridge an cut in the ridge flashing to suit the ribs
link to the screws you used?
Those are called ZAC screws you can find them on SFS website for more information. They have a shoulder to shield the EPDM washer and are called a limited life time screw. The can last for 20 to 30 years before you need to replace them with the next larger size, a galvalume panel is rated for 65 years, he has painted panels on that roof in the video so they could be just a steel panel or they could be a galvalume panel, if galvalume they will cost more so I suspect they are just a steel painted panel.
I have a section of gable overhange that is sagging. The overhang is about 9 inches. I am having a metal roof put on that will be going on 1x4" purlins spaced at 24" on the plywood sheathing. I want to better support the overhang and pull it up about an inch at the end. Will the 1x4's purlins pull it up? Could/should I use 3/4 leg C channel along several purlins to get better support? Other ideas? Thanks!
Only being 9" what you're talking about would probably work. Without seeing it what I would probably do before doing the roof would be removing some decking and actually using lumber to frame in a new fly rafter.
@@GrandRoofingInc Thanks for the reply! The roofing contractor said he'll look at the sheathing in that area to see if it will need replaced. I think I'll insist that he pull up the sheathing in that area to inspect/repair. If I knew exactly when the crew was to show up and we were going to have sunny days before-hand I'd pull it up myself and repair. Is repair like you said usually within a roofing crews ability?
Yes it should be
I usually see ice & water on the whole deck on metal jobs. Any particular reason you didn't do it here?
I’m sure he did. Only put down the bubble over it before installing panels on the other slope.
Why not pre-drill the panels for your screws?
You don’t need to as they appear to be self tapping screws
Do you not use edge protection/scaffolding in the US? Iv seen many videos of people just walking open edge roofs with no fall protection?
We should be allowed to judge our own capabilities and assess risks to personal safety and not be told what to do.
@@ChopstickOW yes of course, I’m just asking because health and safety in the uk is mad strict! If we was found to do stuff like this competent or not they come down heavy on us
@@sammacguffie5234 Oh I apologize. Yeah here in Canada they’re a bit more relaxed but every now and then there will be a safety guy that shuts you down. We have fall arrest but often times it isn’t necessary and gets in the way. I can imagine setting up and tearing down scaffolding every day would get old quick but for some jobs it would be nice to have.
First time I've seen steel laid directly on a reflective barrier. There's really no reason to put it down if there isn't an air space between the roofing and the barrier as it won't provide any insulation value.
Should dampen the noise at least and still provide small r value because maybe you get rid of direct contact with roof?
you can tell this guy doesnt do the install himself. He simply showed up to where his crew was working to shoot a video. He's a "roofer" not a roofer
@@Outd00rFishing A peel and stick water barrier would have done the same thing, we have a metal roof with peel and stick water barrier and the rain is no more noisy than it was with the shingle roof that was replaced.
@@mustangecoboosthpp3869
What's this cost vs the back stuff?
I install only snap lock standing seam
I guess you don’t do barn roofs then because external fasteners should not be used on homes.
External fasteners will always fail due to expansion and contraction of the metal they pin down.
I like my snap lock standing seam metal roof.
Who wants to get up on a roof every year to look for loose screws like the manufacturer recommends for exposed fasteners?
Snap lock metal roofs preform the worst in hurricanes according to FEMA in their inspections after hurricanes.
Why is the silver bubble sheet not on both sides of the roof .is ice and water sheet on both sides of the roof 👍
No screw is exempted from the effects of the metal panel from expansion and contraction during hot and cold periods.
These new style screws work far better, they have a shoulder to protect the EPDM washer, the threads are designed to make it harder for the screws to back out and they are considered limited life time screws by the manufactures. Will you have to replace them at some point with the next larger size? Yes but that is 20 to 30 years down the road. The screw showed is a ZAC screw. If you use galvalume metal panels the panels are rated for 65 years so you will replace the screws once or twice the life of the roof for 60 years of service. All roofs should have an annual inspection done on them.
@@mustangecoboosthpp3869
No, not all roofs should have an annual inspection on them. Expose metal fastener roofs recommend yearly inspection due to known issues with screws due to metal expanding and contracting causing points of entry for rain water.
He’ll never convince me exposed metal fasteners are good for homes.
@@calvinreichelderfer7989 Go ahead and don't do a quick inspection of your roof and after you neglect it for 5 or 6 years and you develop a leak that you did not discover for a couple of years and now you have rotten plywood don't go complaining to anyone.
@@mustangecoboosthpp3869 i haven’t gone up on my roof since 2018 when I had non exposed metal roof installed.
Prior to that I had a shingle roof which I only went up on when it was about 18 years old when some shingles blew off my roof. I replaced the shingles. I would never recommend ignoring shingles or parts of shingles on the ground.
I didn’t have any issues with roof deck.
I would never have an exposed fastener metal roof that has to be inspected because there are thousands of screws penetrating the roof which need to be watched for loosening and metal expansion contraction, causing gaps around the screws. Every screw that penetrates the metal roofing is a possible leak.
I don’t need to inspect my roof because I don’t have thousands of screws directly through the metal roof.
I work installing roofs for a few years when I was young.
@@mustangecoboosthpp3869 I don’t need to look at my roof. It’s all metal unexposed fasteners. New in 2018. I had an old shingle roof replaced, which had gone bad, but I still didn’t need to inspect my roof yearly because I didn’t have thousands of screws gone directly through my roof like an exposed metal fastener roof has. I had replaced a few shingles that blew off my roof prior to having it replaced. Roof decking was not affected if you have a bunch of screws going through your roof exposed metal fasteners, you must inspect the roof yearly and you must look at every screw head to look for gaps loosening around the screwheads. I would never have that on my home because who wants to inspect the roof yearly I want to put my roof on. I know it’s good for 20 or 30 or 50 years. You can’t just look up at an exposed metal fastener roof. You must go up onto the roof and look at the screwheads. It’s much easier to look up at a shingle roof and see if there’s any blown off shingles or exposed nail heads, most of the times you’ll find shingles on the ground that will alert you to damage on your shingle roof, but not with the exposed metal fastener roof you will have to look at each screw head.
When I was young, I worked on roof installing shingles, metal rubber and we did hot tar work also. I would never tell anyone to get a metal roof with exposed fasteners. I would prefer shingles over exposed fast and metal roofs.
Metal Roof 🤘🏻
If you go to the panel manufacture they will tell you on this style of panel to put the screws in the flat not on the ribs. The reason for putting the screws in the flats is for wind lift testing, they do the wind lift testing with the screws the flats if you put the screws on the rib the wind lift specs are no longer valid. 99% of this style panel the manufacture says put the screws in the flat, only 1% of the time will they ok putting the screws on the rib. 5V panels are the exception to that as the screws go on the top of the "V". The way this roof was installed would more than likely fail in a hurricane. That is a EPDM washer on that screw by the way.
Entire house will probably failed in hurricane.
Hey, I have our roof replaced but the contractor we used hasn’t finished the flashing for a month and is not returning our calls now. I’m honestly at this point thinking of doing it myself. I had three no call no shows with other people. I’m pretty handy but with this being said on a rectangle shaped roof what would be the easiest to install? I currently of steel but shingles seem easier but wanted a professional opinion. Also anyway I can tell if my roof can handle the weight of osb? Because it currently doesn’t have any. And will the osb correct any waves currently in the roof? Sorry lots of questions but I am out of options.
Is your roof stripped off currently, exposed to the elements?
@@GrandRoofingInc no, it is fully I stalled aside from where the leaking around the chimney is; where the flashing isn’t Installed and also in a random spot, which I suspect to be from a screw for some reason.
@@VanSantHaus hope you did not pay them.
A year of Purple chalk says: Shit's Permanent, bro.
No screws on the ribs, flats only , only pinner screws on the rib overlap
That is what the manufacture will say for 99% of installs, only about 1% do they say you can put the screw on the rib. The roof in this video would likely fail in a hurricane, while it sounds like the area this roof is installed at does not have hurricanes I would never install the screws on the ribs unless it is one of the limited examples approved the panel manufacture.
5 People Working You Do
In 2 Days And You Charge
More Than 50,000 Dollars,
I Made The Same Job In One
Day With 2 People And Charge
Only 15,000 Same House As You
Do In This Video.
Amén.
absolutely not! Putting screws in the ribs is absolutely shit! The roof maintenence should include rescrewing when it breaks down. Goind through the rib you NEVER get the strength of a true bond without risking denting in the metal. I am actually flabbergasted that you say this lol! Just wow dude.
nice crew lol
Metal roof panel manufactures will say to put the screws in the flats 99% of installs, only about 1% do they say you can put the screw in the rib for PBR style panels. All the wind lift testing is done with the screws installed on the flats, so when this installer put the screws on the ribs he invalidated the wind lift specifications for the panel. The roof in this video would likely fail in a hurricane because of wind lift flexing the panels which would cause the screw to fail and or the panel to pull through the screw. 5V style panels are the exception as manufactures will say to install the screw on the "V" not the flat. But the "V" is not very high on a 5V style panel.
External fasteners metal roof should not be used on homes because the expansion and contraction of the metal panels eventually pull the screws out far enough to allow water to penetrate.
The metal manufacturers actually recommend inspecting screw heads every year because of this obvious weakness.
The metal panels will by far outlast the screw heads being moved out of place.
So many people are having these roofs put on.
I predict many it not all will regret this kind of roof system if they stay in the house 5-10 years.
Leak city.
No roofer with any experience and knowledge would install this type roof on their own house.
Shingles would be better.
If you want metal pay up for standing seam no exposed/external fasteners.
You talk about basic math but what about basic science, expansion and contraction will wiggle the external fasteners out and break the seal on the screw head.
Believe it or not, it’s the truth.
External fasteners metal roofs are good for barns and animal shelters not homes.
False, exposed fastener roofs are fine on homes, they are some of the more popular metal roofs now, I think roofers don't like them because they have to use only top of the line screws and products on them where on snap lock and even mechanical seam roofs they can get away with skimping on the quality of the clips and screws because they are hidden from the home owner. Further Snap Lock metal roofs are the worst preforming metal roofs in hurricanes according to FEMA in the after storm inspections.
Snap lock take a little longer to install than exposed fastener and mechanical seam takes even longer and for every hour the roofer is on the job they make more money off the job, remember there is a profit margin built into the labor charge of the job just like there is a profit margin for the materials for the job. The longer the labor takes the more profit the roofer makes.
A quality exposed fastener roof using galvalume panels rated for 65 years, top of the line ZAC screws with shoulders and EPDM washers and quality peel and stick water barrier will take 1 1/2 days to install. Add a day for the tear off of the old shingle roof in most cases and the install of the peel and stick water barrier so in 2 1/2 days you can have a quality metal roof on your home.
Just make sure you find a roofing company that cares about their reputation, uses top of the line products and has their own crew to do the work. Many roofing companies go by parking lots or home depot/lowes and pick up illegals to do the work and they don't know what they are doing, that is where your problems start.
If you use cheap screws on an exposed fastener roof you will have problems but while the quality ZAC screws are more expensive it does not add that much cost to the job but many roofers will use the cheapest of everything to boost their profit. The new style ZAC screws not only have a shoulder on the head to protect the EPDM washer but the threads are designed to help keep the screws from backing out.
You got a good hairline
😆
?!?
Quit using barn panels on houses with exposed fastners that will leak before the paint on the metal fails. Learn how to do standing seam
Or you could learn how to properly install exposed fastener roofs using only top of the line quality screws and panels, the problem is to many roofers buy the cheapest screws they can find and they will fail. Many roofers do not like exposed fastener metal roofs because they are faster to install and they do not make as much profit installing an exposed fastener roof.
Two days one job what
Agüebo.. hahaha
Get er done? That's because nobody wants to give you anything.
This is a complete waste of time.
Why aren’t you using high temp weather and ice shield? And why not standing seem less instead of face nailing
how do you walk on the roof without safety harness ,is there WCB ?
Everything was right except your screw placement, never on a rib so wrong