I had the same problem yesterday with the Kodak Instamatic 100. I used an old Kodak 126 Cassette reloaded with 35mm. It jammed after the first frame. Wish someone would bring 126 back. Thanks Mike for another great video!
There is a pressure point in between, where the pin allows you to both reload the roll and shoot. I managed to keep the pin in the correct position, this way I could succesfully use even a 35mm cartridge fitted to the camera (I don't have the 126 film) and reload as many times as I want. It was so difficult to mantain the pin in the correct position and attach it that way so it wouln't move, but it is possible :)
What you might be able to do when the winder jams is to press the shutter release. Before pressing the shutter release, put something over the lens so that you avoid a double or multiple exposure. You might have to do this 2 or 3 times. This occurs because 2 or 3 sprocket holes of the 35mm film will cover the elongated hole on the backing paper. It is possible that the 126 cartridge film may go back into production on a small scale as there are a great many cameras that survive that used 126 cartridge film. I have one of those camera myself and it still operates.
I shot a roll of 35mm film in a Kodak Instamatic 100 in an old cartridge with backing paper. The paper was for 12 exposures. Using a technique that I had tried in order to get better results for my Instamatic X35, I taped over part of the hole in the backing paper. I first tried leaving 5mm of hole left per frame. In the X35 that was too small and after the first frame the camera skipped over about three frames. Then I increased it to 7mm. That seems to work well but the roll is still in that camera so I can't confirm that some frames did't run together. I thought that I would try the same technique in the Instamatic 100. Leaving 7mm of hole in each frame of the backing paper, I was able to take 12 pictures. Some of the frames ran together a little but overall it worked pretty well. The camera seemed to jam a couple of times, but I was able to advance the film with a little prodding. On another frame it did jam up and took some effort to unjam. But as a proof-of-concept this showed that this method is workable. The main task is finding what length of frame hole is best for each type of pin in the various cameras. I thought that in the Instamatic 100 the pin would tear some sprocket columns, but there was no problems with that.The type of tape I used was Scotch tape on both sides of the hole. A small strip of packaging tape on the back of the paper also seemed to work. (Since this type of tape is stronger, I didn't feel the need for tape to be placed on both sides of the paper.) For reference the original length of the hole in the backing paper is about 12mm. Note: on the frame that the camera jammed, I was framing the shot and I heard what sounded like the shutter clicking. My finger was on the shutter button and I must have put enough pressure on the button to engage the shutter. The clicking of the shutter, however sounded softer than usual. So its possible that the jamming was due in part to the shutter button not being pushed down far enough.
Alot of this is sprocket shooting , if your are not sprocket shooting maybe find some clear tape or something and have the sprocket holes pre punched , stick it whatever way seems natural in darkroom (which isn't where I'm at) so pre loaded sounds funky except the good one from mom's is a German 126 thats very similar to these with the metal swing. I like my mothers as it's in wow condition although I think it was once a lens that had other options but it was fixed in the late 60's. or it was just an option.. Using a file name for the manual in pdf it's a zeiss_ikon_ikomatic_f that needs a 15 volt (found it) battery for the AG-1 bulbs which for whatever reason tend to work outside but not inside (do'h. ) smoky too. fun :) Wonder if I should just tell the Darkroom to send what they get back to you guys. The one I'm using is a b/w expired 1968 Sears branded 126. Will it work. Not a clue. With b/w the chances are just slightly better than color. With Lomography and their new 110 carts one wonders though. Will they take 120 film and pull sprocket punching with it. Alot of lenses out there and such a waste to lose them all. Not all lenses are the same and while my first real camera (ahem first thing I shot with was 110, first camera I got was a Polaroid One Step parents didn't want anymore. which I'm using again and the Sun600 because it was $3 and nobody had the film then.. Just finished a pack of that. Problem is the mirror is slightly dusty . Anyway back to lenses. First 35mm camera was a point and shoot Fuji. That had a tendency to create a prism effect along the edges. I liked that. So only with that camera I use color film. Everything else now is b/w when I can , sometimes color in the 620's :) But kinda hoping someone comes up with a way to punch out some holes on 120 film....
I had the same problem yesterday with the Kodak Instamatic 100. I used an old Kodak 126 Cassette reloaded with 35mm. It jammed after the first frame. Wish someone would bring 126 back. Thanks Mike for another great video!
Not as snazzy as the 100 but the Kodak X-15 or Kodak 133 works beautifully.
There is a pressure point in between, where the pin allows you to both reload the roll and shoot. I managed to keep the pin in the correct position, this way I could succesfully use even a 35mm cartridge fitted to the camera (I don't have the 126 film) and reload as many times as I want. It was so difficult to mantain the pin in the correct position and attach it that way so it wouln't move, but it is possible :)
What you might be able to do when the winder jams is to press the shutter release. Before pressing the shutter release, put something over the lens so that you avoid a double or multiple exposure. You might have to do this 2 or 3 times. This occurs because 2 or 3 sprocket holes of the 35mm film will cover the elongated hole on the backing paper. It is possible that the 126 cartridge film may go back into production on a small scale as there are a great many cameras that survive that used 126 cartridge film. I have one of those camera myself and it still operates.
I shot a roll of 35mm film in a Kodak Instamatic 100 in an old cartridge
with backing paper. The paper was for 12 exposures. Using a technique that I had tried in order to get better results for my Instamatic X35, I taped over part of the hole in the backing paper. I first tried leaving 5mm of hole left per frame. In the X35 that was too small and after the first frame the camera skipped over about three frames. Then I increased it to 7mm. That seems to work well but the roll is still in that camera so I can't confirm that some frames did't run together. I thought that I would try the same technique in the Instamatic 100. Leaving 7mm of hole in each frame of the backing paper, I was able to take 12 pictures. Some of the frames ran together a little but overall it worked pretty well. The camera seemed to jam a couple of times, but I was able to advance the film with a little prodding. On another frame it did jam up and took some effort to unjam. But as a proof-of-concept this showed that this method is workable. The main task is finding what length of frame hole is best for each type of pin in the various cameras. I thought that in the Instamatic 100 the pin would tear some sprocket columns, but there was no problems with that.The type of tape I used was Scotch tape on both sides of the hole. A small strip of packaging tape on the back of the paper also seemed to work. (Since this type of tape is stronger, I didn't feel the need for tape to be placed on both sides of the paper.) For reference the original length of the hole in the backing paper is about 12mm. Note: on the frame that the camera jammed, I was framing the shot and I heard what sounded like the shutter clicking. My finger was on the shutter button and I must have put enough pressure on the button to engage the shutter. The clicking of the shutter, however sounded softer than usual. So its possible that the jamming was due in part to the shutter button not being pushed down far enough.
1:56
Are the batteries just to power the flash? Do i need them when i am shooting without flash?
You only need the batteries if you are using the flash cubes.
Just use the method with the two 35mm rolls, where you put a coing on top of the takeup roll and clip the the pin.
Yes, i suppose you can hack the camera by cutting that pin.
@@michaelrasoCould you tape the pin down with masking tape?
Alot of this is sprocket shooting , if your are not sprocket shooting maybe find some clear tape or something and have the sprocket holes pre punched , stick it whatever way seems natural in darkroom (which isn't where I'm at) so pre loaded sounds funky except the good one from mom's is a German 126 thats very similar to these with the metal swing. I like my mothers as it's in wow condition although I think it was once a lens that had other options but it was fixed in the late 60's. or it was just an option.. Using a file name for the manual in pdf it's a zeiss_ikon_ikomatic_f that needs a 15 volt (found it) battery for the AG-1 bulbs which for whatever reason tend to work outside but not inside (do'h. ) smoky too. fun :) Wonder if I should just tell the Darkroom to send what they get back to you guys. The one I'm using is a b/w expired 1968 Sears branded 126. Will it work. Not a clue. With b/w the chances are just slightly better than color. With Lomography and their new 110 carts one wonders though. Will they take 120 film and pull sprocket punching with it. Alot of lenses out there and such a waste to lose them all. Not all lenses are the same and while my first real camera (ahem first thing I shot with was 110, first camera I got was a Polaroid One Step parents didn't want anymore. which I'm using again and the Sun600 because it was $3 and nobody had the film then.. Just finished a pack of that. Problem is the mirror is slightly dusty . Anyway back to lenses. First 35mm camera was a point and shoot Fuji. That had a tendency to create a prism effect along the edges. I liked that. So only with that camera I use color film. Everything else now is b/w when I can , sometimes color in the 620's :) But kinda hoping someone comes up with a way to punch out some holes on 120 film....
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