Thank you for a clear and straightforward video on single stage press reloading with no headbanger rock anthem intros and just pure, uncluttered facts. You also draw a pretty smart audience as well. See the long comment below. And reloading **is** money saving (especially these days) after the initial investment. It appeals to me because of the relaxing and satisfying process and the pride of producing instead of just purchasing a box of shells and pew-spewing them away. Just add this to your hesitancy re giving out your reloading formula: NEVER do that. Also, never reload any ammunition for anyone else. Wise advice to avoid liability. Keep up the good work! Looking forward to you .45 ACP video.
Finally, someone who can communicate, educate and not be arrogant. That was one of the best explanations I have ever seen. I have a pile of reloading equipment that was given to me by my uncle and some from a friend, both of them suffering dementia so they can’t really help me much. I’ve been timid about getting it all out and set up.. Now not so much. Thank you
Thanks for putting up the video. Been reloading for 24 months about 3,500 rounds. Some things for people wondering if reloading is for them. This hobby is for people who don't mind slow and steady, meticulous and neat. Material cost per round of 9mm can be from $0.15 per to $0.28 depending on what bullets, powder and primers you use. There's some cheaper good bullets out there that are not full metal jacket. However, equipment costs for the press, dies, scale, powder measure, calipers, other tooling, cleaning equipment can run $600 t0 $1200 depending on what you get. So while your material cost may be fifteen cents a round, your first cartridge is going to cost you a lot more. Hint, if you reload for one cartridge like 9mm, it will take a long time and a lot of cartridges to break even. If you can split that cost up over multiple calibers, the cost can be recouped faster. You don't need a dedicated "reloading bench" You can mount your press on a piece of hardwood, then clamp it to a table. The press gets a lot of torque, so you need a very solid block of wood, table and clamps. Powder and primers need to be stored in a cool dry place. Start to finish to set up, load 100 rounds, clean up and put away, it takes me about 1.5-2.5 hours of labor. That does not include the time spent cleaning cases while they are in the machine. Rifle rounds take even longer. Unless you are an FFL you can't legally sell your reloads. And when people find out, they will ask. If there is a safety problem they will say where they got the ammo. Keep records of your loads. Keep your loads identified by the powder, powder weight, bullet, length et cetera. This is in case you find problems. Don't just put all your different loads in one ammo can and say it is reloaded 9mm . Inspect at every step. Look for damaged brass, primers inserted all the way, uniform level of powder, uniform length. Powder weight, critical important, check often if using a volumetric powder measure. Don't expect volumetric measures to be on a tenth of a gram consistently. If you are reloading for precision you may want a powder trickler. (Equipment cost and reloading time. picky picky picky) Some people don't trim handgun cartridges. Variations in case length will affect how much crimp is applied. If you are using brass from multiple manufacturers and non metal jacket ammo this will be an influence. There's plain lead ammo, copper plated lead, powder coated lead, and these all crimp softer than FMJ or JHP. Most of us trim rifle brass to length. After trimming you need to de-burr. Some handgun and rifle brass have the primer "crimped" into the base. This makes it harder to extract and even harder to put a new primer in. You can swage or ream primer pockets. Swaging is faster, cleaner, but the tooling is more expensive. Reaming is messy, takes a bit more time, makes a mess with brass shavings and can cramp your fingers. Shiny brass doesn't make bullets go faster, but it does keeps the dies scratch free longer. Carbide dies are more than worth the money. Another excellent resource is the Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI) specifications for cartridge and chamber drawings. These include the tolerances on dimensions. If you understand technical drawings it is a great tool. Some of us deprime the case before cleaning. There are dies that just push the primer out. This can give you a cleaner primer pocket. The bullet seating and crimping die shown here is sometimes done with two dies, one to seat, one to crimp. Some have mentioned cleaning brass in soapy water with steel pins. Lots of us do that. I started with an empty peanut butter jar, a pound of pins, some dish soap, some citric acid powder and hot water with 100 or so 9mm brass. Shake, rest and repeat until the brass looked good enough. Strained into a colander with a bandana. Picked out the brass, rinsed the pins and put them back in the jar. Rinsed the brass and place on a towel on top of the clothes dryer for multiple loads, until warm and dry. It was cheap and available. I did 2,000 rounds that way. Keep your reloading press clean and lubricated. Keep your dies clean. If you don't have carbide dies; you will need to clean the sizing lubricant off your dies.
Love this comment! Thanks a bunch! I reloaded for precision for my 308 many years ago. Dialled in my loads, loaded a bunch, and haven’t had to reload since lol I guess I need to go shooting more often SMH But now I’m considering reloading for 9mm so this will help greatly Thanks again
@brimmed - like I tell everyone. Until you become comfortable with your load data and process it take a bit longer. Too many variables to say how long it will take a person. I really should time myself on how long it takes to do 100, 200, etc. I get this question a lot. Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
This was such a blessing to find compared to the hundreds of others that do nothing but promote their own products, or sponsored products and take 3x longer to get to the point. I am going through your channel. Hope to find a 223/556 and a 308 reloading video now.
@ThGrtCanadian - thanks for the positive feedback. I try to keep things quick and to the point for the very reasons you stated. I, like some other reloaders, are a bit impatient and just want to get to the point and quit the jaw jacking and lay off the heavy metal music. 😂 I’m trying to streamline my videos to “bare bones” in order to help meet the request of my viewers. Thanks for the feedback! I’m trying to make this as easy and straight forward as I can. 👍🏻
I HAVE BEEN RELOADING SINCE THE 80s.BUT I AM ALWAYS READY TO LEARN NEW TECHNIQUES. I ALWAYS LEARN EASIER WAYS FROM YOUR VIDEOS. THANKS FOR TEACHING THIS OLD DOGS NEW TRICKS!!!!!
I prefer to decap ( remove primer ) before initial tumbling so the primer pocket gets cleaned as well. Lee makes a great decapping die that works on most calibers. Doing it this ways allows the removal of the recapping pin in the sizing die as well. Over the past 45 years of reloading many calibers of rifle and pistol this has worked well for me. Be safe at all times!
Dry tumbling after removing the primer does not clean the primer pockets. All it does is lead to clogged primer pockets. The media does not move around enough in the primer pocket to clean it. Wet tumbling with steel pins is a different story.
@@Steve5404 I prefer to de prime and re size then throw in wet tumbler to clean. After they are dry, I measure the brass. Even though many people disagree with my method, I measure every piece of brass and store them by brass size. I dont reload or shoot that much so I save brass (9MM) by size from .750 to .751 and .752 to .754. My theory and method is to have a fairly equal crimp on the brass. I am fairly new to reloading so this many people find useless and a waste of time. But for me works at the present time.
Wow! You made this so easy to follow and understand that I feel like I can do this now. I swear this all seemed so overwhelming at first. Thank you for making this a straight forward and easy to grasp.
A good intro to reloading pistol ammo. Most people would probably prefer a progressive press, but understanding the manual process with a single stage press is very helpful, and powder measures, OAL, and priming steps were useful to demonstrate critical aspects of loading. One bit glossed over was seating/crimp in a single step, rather than a 2 step process, but that is more for progressive reloaders.
Hello Rob Sciuk! Thanks for the comments! I did gloss over that part so I made another video just for seating and crimping! Appreciate your feedback! ua-cam.com/video/diLgHfozgbA/v-deo.html
Nice video, been reloading for about 2 years and always like to watch other people's methods and instructions. Always learn something from every video I watch. Sims like everyone explain the process in an unique way that sticks with me.
Thank you for the video, as someone who's brand new to reloading, videos like this will definitely help me build confidence and knowledge in moving into this new hobby.
What a terrific video explaining all the steps individually, thank you for taking the time to put this together! I'm not sure (I flat out don't lol) I have the patience for single-stage reloading but this was invaluable to me in order to learn each step. Thank you again!
Great video, thank you! I was always taught to not touch primers with your bare hands, as you don’t want your skin oil to get on it, so I just use tweezers and load them into the press. Thanks again for all your wisdom in this video!
That's why you purchase two hand priming tools. One set for large primers and the other set for small. Avoid all the screwing around changing the primer ram. I also like the wet tumbler method of cleaning the brass. It doesn't create dust, which can contain lead.
Should take a look at the Lyman 310 tool. That way you can feel the primer go in. I use when I reload MT 30 cal rounds. But for pistol I use the Dillon 550 I have watched several reloading for beginners and you seem to more careful and explain very well. I have been reloading 50 years.. Thanks for your attention to detail
Very good information regarding reloading for beginners keep in mind another option for cleaning is with steel pins. Also instead of removing and using your barrel as a case gauge they actually make go no go gauges for finished ammo to make sure you’re in spec for shooting.
I have case gauges, but do the "plunk" test always. Extra safeguard for me. My 9mm pistol is very finicky and temperamental, so I don't take chances. Now my 45 ACP very forgiving
Great Tutorial, thanks for sharing! I never used the expanding die on my 357 mag loads and never had an issue. I just hold the bullett and case with my fingers until they enter the seating die. The Bullet seating die always pushed it in perfectly without trouble. I get why it is important on multi stage presses, but I feel like it's not necessary with a single stage press.
Thank you so so much for this video. I'm about to start reloading soon and I've watched plenty of videos about the process but none like this one. Super greatful🙏❤️🇿🇦
Fantastic Video. I just got my setup Rockchucker Supreme and starting on 9MM before moving onto 223/243/300WM. Thank you for explaining how to set up the dies and using the calipers.
Everything was super informative. Only advice maybe I could give is you never want ant part of your hand above the open shell when seating a primer with any tool. I have seen primers go off on seating, and all of that will end up singeing your fingers. Great video!
@ronaldbogucki796 - I’ve come across different opinions regarding crimping. I personally use a crimp for a multitude of different reasons. I’m not here to talk people into crimping. I’m not suggesting that everything needs a crimp. I encourage people to explore the negatives and positives of using a crimp and decide for themselves. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
@MusicMinisterJP7 - yes, I had forgotten to explain it in this video so I made a different one on seating and crimping. Thanks for asking! Hope this helps. It’s a bit tricky until you try it a few times. Good luck! Let me know if you have any other questions! I’ve attached the link to the video below. Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻 ua-cam.com/video/diLgHfozgbA/v-deo.htmlsi=Doz12gvS1lgWYNEs
@@k2defense I like how you went about your demos.. May I trouble you for another question;; I normally did rifle loads years ago (30-06 and 30-30), but now I've purchased a P320 9mm and have begun prepping the cases. However, I am a bit concerned if I am understanding the difference in pistol loads from the rifles. Meaning, with rifle's, a 52.5 would be figured using the left side ruler beam, with the .5 on right side ruler. But in pistol, is a 4.7g all basically on the right side ruler beam? I'm thinking yes. BUT, if I wanted a 5.2g , how would I get that, being the right side ruler beam only goes up to 5? Is the then the 1st notch on the left side ruler beam, the 5? Can you please elaborate on this? I haven't seen a video that explaind this.. I'd appreciate it, thx.
@@MusicMinisterJP7 hello! Thanks for the compliment! May I ask which scale you’re using? I’ll be able to better assist you knowing which one you’re using. 👍🏻
@@k2defense Sure, Thanks, I have the RCBS 502 scale. I also have the Rock chucker press with the priming attachment. And I like that gizmo on your press, that ejects completed round into basket. Did you make it, or is it available?
@MusicMinisterJP7 - to get 5.2 you would move the left side weight to the first notch. That will be 5gn. On the right side you’ll move the weight to the 2. This will give you the 5.2. To get anything up to 5 you would only use the right side. Does this make sense? The case ejector system is sold by In Line Fabrication. Tell Dan I sent you. Great company with quality products. Here’s the ordering information: inlinefabrication.com/products/case-ejector-system-for-rcbs-rockchucker-single-stage?_pos=1&_sid=91b82e0ec&_ss=r&variant=1001965276 You’ll love it! Let me know if you have any other questions! Thanks for the comments! 👍🏻
The handle on your press looks a lot more comfortable than the one I have on my RCBS. Also what is the contraption that knocks the round out of the holder after the press comes down?
In Line Fabrication. Tell Dan I sent you and he should offer my viewers a discount code since I send him so much business. 😂👍🏻You’ll love it. Here’s the website. inlinefabrication.com/collections/case-ejector-system
Very informative. I've reloaded some shotgun shells before but always wondered about handgun ammo. If i had a good place to set all of this up, id be tempted to make the plunge.
Thank you for your content! Could you please do a video on gift ideas for reload enthusiasts like yourself? My father is a marine and a volunteer firefighter I want to get him the best gift this year! I usually just buy him ammo but I want to greater invest in his passion this year!
Check out this video. It will give you some additional insight on reloading equipment ideas. 👍🏻 ua-cam.com/video/euZl_mPOEkQ/v-deo.htmlsi=42LeDJl3mCqTaDcL
Could you write a description showing all of the equipment you are using? It would be helpful for those beginners trying to make sure they have all the tools ready to go for their first kick at the can.
Think BIG Bodybuilding Media - glad you found this helpful! Let me know if there are specific vids you want to see! I’ve got another 9 Mike Mike coming out this summer so keep a lookout for it. Appreciate the comment! 👍🏻 love your channel BTW!
@f.h2986 - correct. I’ve had a lot of folks ask why, I honesty just forgot to add that portion to the video. So I then decided to release this video with an in depth explanation. ua-cam.com/video/diLgHfozgbA/v-deo.htmlsi=pVVtjjL6GBqhc6UC Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
I have used an RCBS primer tool for years. I liked the old primer system on the press but pieces got lost in a move. I’ve seen the frailties U mention. Saying that, It has never missed a beat, but then I don’t drink beer when reloading.
Yea ! That’s a smart A$$ comment on my part; but ‘have first hand witnessed WIT-less individuals bad mouthing the practice because of a lack of common sense, low observation and failure to follow instructions. Good demo!
I like shooting, but damn this is much more work than I was thinking, do they have a more modern but might be a little more expensive way of reloading?
@rajinbin - there are turret and progressive types of presses that cuts down on all of the steps. It is less timely but the accuracy could suffer. Reloading isn’t inexpensive but when it comes to shortages, as long as you’re stocked up on reloading supplies, reloading is a lifesaver. Hope this answers your question! 👍🏻
@jhamersky059 - It's called a case ejector system by In Line Fabrication. Tell Dan I sent you! They have great service and decent prices. They'll take care of all of your add on needs. inlinefabrication.com/collections/case-ejector-system
@ 17.31 You talk about making adjustments. However, you don't mention WHAT you adjust. The seat plug (which in your case appears to be fully down) or are you adjusting the die? Otherwise, excellent video.
Hello @adamjconstantino9598, I made a couple of follow up videos to this video. ua-cam.com/video/XaTmluSL4Ls/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/diLgHfozgbA/v-deo.html Hope this helps explain things a little bit more. Please let me know if you have any other questions!
The set up for straight walked cartridges are all pretty much the same. There may be nuances that differ with the projectiles. So, yes, this should work for you. 👍🏻
@hej221 - you’ll hear that some people don’t clean either. However, I clean both. I use the primer pocket uniformer and flash hole uniformer. Reason being, I have had primers blown out of the case and when I looked at the flash hole, there’s a piece of corn cob stuck in it. I’ve also had primers not seat well in the primer pocket because of the char left behind from the last use. I’ve also had new brass that has had pieces of brass left behind from when the cases were made. So, yes, I don’t skip steps when working the brass. As a new reloader remember that you want to be consistently repeatable when working your loads. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
Got the same RCBS hand priming tool. Been using it for 30 years. You NEVER let the handle shaft rod fully disengage from the end of the primer press and spring assembly. Hold it in position while removing the frame clip and inserting the feed/shell holder housing, and the primer supply tray. Also, don't rest the primer supply tray on the index finger knuckle of your hand while squeezing the grip press system, and the tray won't work itself loose, and fall on the floor; ask me how I know. Knowing what you're doing is generally the first solution to something that doesn't function properly.
Hey there. I’m looking into the the Dillon 550 press as my first reloading setup. Do I still have to do all the measurements. Do I still have to do the trim length, expanding die and pocket cleaning steps or with the 550 take care of that?
@@k2defense Iceland actually, I've had my gun and hunting licenses for a couple of years now and reloading seems like such a fun hobby... since I don't have a lot of time for hunting or target shooting while I have a young child around😂
Hi Caleb! Check out InLine Fabrication. @inlinefabrication Tell Dan I sent you. You’ll wonder why you didn’t buy this sooner. Speeds up the reloading process on the single stage. Feels like you’re going warp speed. 😂👍🏻 inlinefabrication.com/collections/case-ejector-system
Was thinking of reloading 9MM and 556 not because the money savings just in case can't get them. I reload all my shotgun shells where is the best place to buy the presses ?
Robert Stubbs - I’d suggest searching the web and looking at your local businesses. Price shop to save as much as you can. You can also find them on Amazon. This video goes into more granular details. 👍🏻 ua-cam.com/video/euZl_mPOEkQ/v-deo.html
I save close to 3.61 a round for 9mm reloading myself. And i can adjust different grain levels. I like to use 3.8 or 3.7 for 124 grain FMJ just standard ball ammo. 115 grain 4.4 pr 4.3, for a little hotter loads i go 4.8. I reload my own brass, 8 cents for primer, 0.15 cents for bullet and 0.02 cents for powder a scoop. 25 cents a round comapred to the 3 something for factory. Ill go reloading any day. I load on a lee loader classic 9mm. Everything starting out costed me 160, bullets, primer, powder, scale, and caliper.
You forgot the step of pouring your own bullets. Dad used to pour lead and reload .357 & .44 Mag with lighter loads for target shooting only revolvers. So if you are buying slugs, powder and primers, what is your cost per cartridge?
Hello 600miles! My cost is pretty inexpensive since I had learned my lesson after Sandyhook. I bought volumes of powder, projectiles, and primers when the cost was low. I agree that casting bullets is cheaper since most of the alloys are available for free or low cost. It is a time commitment, but the cost savings is big. To answer your question, with reusing my shells my cost is around 10 to 13 cents per round only because of had purchased all of my components while they were low years ago. Thanks for the comment!
I accidentally bought 500 Winchester 335 9mm bullets without the casings from palmetto. Any advice on where i look to sell them to someone who can use them?
@James-Deep - are you looking to reload 9mm? If I understand your question correctly, you have the projectiles needed to do so. Maybe I misunderstood your question? Let me know. 👍🏻
@James-Deep - Unfortunately I am unable to offer any suggestions as it goes against the “UA-cam Community Guidelines”. Sorry I cannot be of any assistance. Thanks for understanding. 👍🏻
What's a good guide for someone that has nothing. And has no experience. I'm not sure what to buy or what I need. What's good what's bad how do you use it all
I just reloaded 9mm and scaled up a few box rounds and came up with numbers from 11.64 to 11.69 grams my reloads scale up from 11.58 to 12.00 put cases on micrometer they seam to measure up good to powder weight is off what the heck?
how much does all of the hardware cost to do this? After paying for all of the hardware and replacement pieces, is it really cheaper to reload? Especially when going to a range that takes your brass?
97JoMiller - reloading doesn’t save you money up front. You’ll need to invest money in order to get the things you need. The benefit will be when you have everything to make your ammo and you can’t find ammo in stores. It really all depends on what you’re doing, how often you shoot, etc. precision reloading is another reason to invest. If you’re looking to make that perfect round, there you go. If you’re a weekend warrior and want to shoot a pop can once in a while, I’d suggest just buying your ammo. Most reloaders I know are in it for the long haul, shoot a fair amount of ammo, and enjoy the art of making their own ammo. Once you start, it’s hard to stop. Here’s video to give you some ideas. 👍🏻 ua-cam.com/video/euZl_mPOEkQ/v-deo.html
@@k2defense thanks! I enjoy the art of all of it plus like you said about not being able to find in the store. My concern is I do normally go to the range so they take my brass so it's not like I can be like hey stop that, I'm picking it all up afterwards haha
Nice Video, Only comment: Trimming not needed on 9mm cases. I,ve been reloading 9mm for 45 years and trimming was never done or needed. Trimming is VERY critical on Rifle cases.
Hello Thomas Turner! I assume when you say “grooved” your referring to cannelure. If so, I’ll use a cannelure type bullet if I work up a load with higher pressures wanted or needed. I don’t typically worry about crimping my plinking rounds even if they have a cannelure. Because of todays shortages on everything, I’ll use whatever I can get my hands on. Hope that answers your question!
My material cost for my last run of 9mm was $0.151 per round. Current 9 mm retail is $0.38 to $0.90 depending on whatever BUT...your first round will cost close to a thousand dollars. And here comes the labor time, material costs and equipment costs discussion. If you spend $800 bucks for equipment, #40 for a pound of powder, $110 for a thousand primers and $25 for 100 match grade bullets or $68 for 900 powder coated lead bullets and use two hours of your time to make 100 bullets, how much does the first round cost? And you could spend much more for equipment if you want all the latest and greatest. My 0.223 Remington reloads last run material cost was $0.282 per round. After 1,000 rounds my total cost including equipment is $0.526 per round. current retail around me is about $0.60 to $1.20. If you see what I mean by equipment cost, you will understand that my first round cost me over $650. (I bought the equipment a few years ago, prices have increased) To make these total 3,600 rounds has taken me somewhere around 50-75 hours of my time. I've got a stockpile of bullets, primers and powder in the home as well. So that adds to my cost too. (within SAAMI and NFPA recomendations for in a residence) (Look up SAAMI and NFPA if you don't recognize them.) I'm retired, no kids at home. Reloading keeps me busy and out of my wife's hair. She likes to shoot as well. I came close to running out of primers at one point, by my ammo inventory never dipped below 6,500 rounds during the past couple years. You can make it cheaper, but you have to have the time, the initial investment, positive feedback from the spouse, workspace, and the storage space. Oh, powder and primers a a Department of Transportation restricted shipping item. They cost extra to ship. Even when your favorite place has free shipping if you spend over 50 bucks, ad twenty bucks to cover this extra DOT shipping cost. And even though loaded rounds contain primer and powder, they don't have this extra shipping cost.
@@Longrangetargets I can make my loads much more expensive. My latest primers were 110 a thou, and if I loaded a nice JHP I'd be up around $0.35 to $0.45 per round. But then JHP on the market these days is $0.90 to $1.50 a round. Most of my handgun ammo has been Berry's or Blue Bullets of Gallant. When I got started I had some cheaper Hornady JHP that didn't have the segmented or bonded jacket. They expand, but not like a nice XTP bullet.
Straight wall brass does not stretch from resize. If anything it shrinks. The only reason to trim handgun brass would be the heavy hitters so you can have a uniform roll crimp. Do yourself a favor....quit using the treated corn cob media. That treated lyman polish leaves a residue on the brass. Add used bounce dryer sheets Buy Blasting media from Grainger 14/20 grit and get some Dillon Case Polish. When filling a vibratory polisher....fill it half full of brass. Then add your media till over 3/4's full. Do not over use media it is cheap that treated stuff attracts so much crud. Storing primers in an unmarked container is not a good idea. Especially not identified. I see Berry's bullets on the bench...they are not FMJ. but copper plated. Plated bullets use cast bullet load data. One must be careful and not over crimp. Over crimping plated or coated bullets can strip the plating/coating off and lead to leading of the barrel. One should always caution when reloading to know that what type of barrel you are reloading for conventional rifling or polygonal (Gen 1-4 Glocks and HK's come to mind). Lead and coated lead bullets generally are not recommended for polygonal bbls.
I agree, straight wall brass does not stretch like rifle brass. But using range brass from different manufacturers and using lead bullets rather than metal jacketed bullets, (Berry's plated, Blue Bullets, Missouri Bullet Co, Gallant, etc.)the difference in brass length can easily give you different crimp, greatly affecting pressure, velocity, impact and as you stated, leading. Unmarked in reloading??? I even keep my loads separate and ID'ed by date, bullet, powder, primer...
Hello Phil D! I should’ve shown my components a little better. I have everything marked for proper identification. Filming takes hours as well as editing. Anything that appears unmarked in the videos is closely regulated between me and my producer. Appreciate the feedback!
I know bullets are expensive, that's why I ended up looking into reloading. But with all the up front costs in tools, and all the consumable supplies, and all the time involved, is this really any cheaper in the long run? Now, if your argument is 'but what if you can't even buy bullets', well then I guess it's good to be able to reload. But for anyone looking to save money, this looks like you would have to reload thousands of bullets, and even then, what is your time worth?
@fredvStein - good question. I won’t complicate the answer or argue either way. In short, you are correct. Weekend plinkers will not “save” you from enough money in their lifetime to recoup the upfront costs of everything. I would tell those folks to go and buy as much ammo as you think you need to make yourself comfortable. I’m not suggesting stockpiling ammo, however find a number you’re comfortable with in case things are hard to buy at some point. I’ll never try to convince anyone that reloading will for sure save you money. Personally, it’s time that I get to do something that I enjoy. To work up a new round and see how it performs is cool, to me. Thanks for the question Fred! Appreciate the comment! 👍🏻
@SandraFreeze - that’s awesome! I’m guessing you meant 12g reloading? I haven’t started that series yet. I’m backlogged with everything I need to cover with regular reloading at this time. 😂👍🏻 I’ll get to it in the future though.
Thank you for a clear and straightforward video on single stage press reloading with no headbanger rock anthem intros and just pure, uncluttered facts.
You also draw a pretty smart audience as well. See the long comment below. And reloading **is** money saving (especially these days) after the initial investment. It appeals to me because of the relaxing and satisfying process and the pride of producing instead of just purchasing a box of shells and pew-spewing them away.
Just add this to your hesitancy re giving out your reloading formula: NEVER do that. Also, never reload any ammunition for anyone else. Wise advice to avoid liability.
Keep up the good work! Looking forward to you .45 ACP video.
War Planner - I've pinned your comment! Appreciate your comment and suggestions to others!
@@k2defensethank you keep up the good work. Especially interested if you do .45 ACP.
Finally, someone who can communicate, educate and not be arrogant. That was one of the best explanations I have ever seen. I have a pile of reloading equipment that was given to me by my uncle and some from a friend, both of them suffering dementia so they can’t really help me much. I’ve been timid about getting it all out and set up.. Now not so much. Thank you
Appreciate the positive feedback. Glad this video will help you once you get started. Welcome to the family! 👍🏻
Thanks for putting up the video.
Been reloading for 24 months about 3,500 rounds. Some things for people wondering if reloading is for them.
This hobby is for people who don't mind slow and steady, meticulous and neat.
Material cost per round of 9mm can be from $0.15 per to $0.28 depending on what bullets, powder and primers you use. There's some cheaper good bullets out there that are not full metal jacket.
However, equipment costs for the press, dies, scale, powder measure, calipers, other tooling, cleaning equipment can run $600 t0 $1200 depending on what you get.
So while your material cost may be fifteen cents a round, your first cartridge is going to cost you a lot more.
Hint, if you reload for one cartridge like 9mm, it will take a long time and a lot of cartridges to break even. If you can split that cost up over multiple calibers, the cost can be recouped faster.
You don't need a dedicated "reloading bench" You can mount your press on a piece of hardwood, then clamp it to a table. The press gets a lot of torque, so you need a very solid block of wood, table and clamps.
Powder and primers need to be stored in a cool dry place.
Start to finish to set up, load 100 rounds, clean up and put away, it takes me about 1.5-2.5 hours of labor. That does not include the time spent cleaning cases while they are in the machine. Rifle rounds take even longer.
Unless you are an FFL you can't legally sell your reloads. And when people find out, they will ask. If there is a safety problem they will say where they got the ammo.
Keep records of your loads. Keep your loads identified by the powder, powder weight, bullet, length et cetera. This is in case you find problems. Don't just put all your different loads in one ammo can and say it is reloaded 9mm .
Inspect at every step. Look for damaged brass, primers inserted all the way, uniform level of powder, uniform length. Powder weight, critical important, check often if using a volumetric powder measure. Don't expect volumetric measures to be on a tenth of a gram consistently. If you are reloading for precision you may want a powder trickler. (Equipment cost and reloading time. picky picky picky)
Some people don't trim handgun cartridges. Variations in case length will affect how much crimp is applied. If you are using brass from multiple manufacturers and non metal jacket ammo this will be an influence. There's plain lead ammo, copper plated lead, powder coated lead, and these all crimp softer than FMJ or JHP.
Most of us trim rifle brass to length.
After trimming you need to de-burr.
Some handgun and rifle brass have the primer "crimped" into the base. This makes it harder to extract and even harder to put a new primer in. You can swage or ream primer pockets. Swaging is faster, cleaner, but the tooling is more expensive. Reaming is messy, takes a bit more time, makes a mess with brass shavings and can cramp your fingers.
Shiny brass doesn't make bullets go faster, but it does keeps the dies scratch free longer.
Carbide dies are more than worth the money.
Another excellent resource is the Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI) specifications for cartridge and chamber drawings. These include the tolerances on dimensions. If you understand technical drawings it is a great tool.
Some of us deprime the case before cleaning. There are dies that just push the primer out. This can give you a cleaner primer pocket.
The bullet seating and crimping die shown here is sometimes done with two dies, one to seat, one to crimp.
Some have mentioned cleaning brass in soapy water with steel pins. Lots of us do that. I started with an empty peanut butter jar, a pound of pins, some dish soap, some citric acid powder and hot water with 100 or so 9mm brass. Shake, rest and repeat until the brass looked good enough. Strained into a colander with a bandana. Picked out the brass, rinsed the pins and put them back in the jar. Rinsed the brass and place on a towel on top of the clothes dryer for multiple loads, until warm and dry. It was cheap and available. I did 2,000 rounds that way.
Keep your reloading press clean and lubricated. Keep your dies clean. If you don't have carbide dies; you will need to clean the sizing lubricant off your dies.
Hello Phil D! Great comments! Appreciate your input!
Love this comment!
Thanks a bunch!
I reloaded for precision for my 308 many years ago. Dialled in my loads, loaded a bunch, and haven’t had to reload since lol I guess I need to go shooting more often SMH
But now I’m considering reloading for 9mm so this will help greatly
Thanks again
Thank you for writing all this. One of my questions was how much time it takes. Sounds like this will prob have to be started sometime after I retire
@brimmed - like I tell everyone. Until you become comfortable with your load data and process it take a bit longer. Too many variables to say how long it will take a person. I really should time myself on how long it takes to do 100, 200, etc. I get this question a lot. Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
Shame its 18 to 27 cents, as a new bullet can be around 27 cents. I save much more for my shotgun on reloads, this savings seems very small.
This was such a blessing to find compared to the hundreds of others that do nothing but promote their own products, or sponsored products and take 3x longer to get to the point.
I am going through your channel. Hope to find a 223/556 and a 308 reloading video now.
@ThGrtCanadian - thanks for the positive feedback. I try to keep things quick and to the point for the very reasons you stated. I, like some other reloaders, are a bit impatient and just want to get to the point and quit the jaw jacking and lay off the heavy metal music. 😂 I’m trying to streamline my videos to “bare bones” in order to help meet the request of my viewers. Thanks for the feedback! I’m trying to make this as easy and straight forward as I can. 👍🏻
I like the calm way of talking about frustration. First time I am gonna learn from somebody else's frustration
Salphoth - my wife might say I’m not always so calm when I spill those primers all over the floor. 😂👍🏻
@@k2defense Lol, gotta get a tool for that -> i mean pickin up primers
@@Salphoth 😂👍🏻
This is probably best easy to understand for newbie reloaders I've seen.
@douglasphillips24 - appreciate the feedback! 👍🏻
I HAVE BEEN RELOADING SINCE THE 80s.BUT I AM ALWAYS READY TO LEARN NEW TECHNIQUES. I ALWAYS LEARN EASIER WAYS FROM YOUR VIDEOS. THANKS FOR TEACHING THIS OLD DOGS NEW TRICKS!!!!!
Thanks for the feedback! I learn something new every day 👍🏻
I prefer to decap ( remove primer ) before initial tumbling so the primer pocket gets cleaned as well. Lee makes a great decapping die that works on most calibers. Doing it this ways allows the removal of the recapping pin in the sizing die as well. Over the past 45 years of reloading many calibers of rifle and pistol this has worked well for me. Be safe at all times!
Sorting brass before tumbling helps avoid the dreaded stacked case, 32acp in a 9mm in a 40S&W in a 45acp 😭🤷♂️🤣🤣🤣
Dry tumbling after removing the primer does not clean the primer pockets. All it does is lead to clogged primer pockets. The media does not move around enough in the primer pocket to clean it. Wet tumbling with steel pins is a different story.
@@Steve5404 I prefer to de prime and re size then throw in wet tumbler to clean. After they are dry, I measure the brass. Even though many people disagree with my method, I measure every piece of brass and store them by brass size. I dont reload or shoot that much so I save brass (9MM) by size from .750 to .751 and .752 to .754. My theory and method is to have a fairly equal crimp on the brass. I am fairly new to reloading so this many people find useless and a waste of time. But for me works at the present time.
Wow! You made this so easy to follow and understand that I feel like I can do this now. I swear this all seemed so overwhelming at first. Thank you for making this a straight forward and easy to grasp.
Glad you found this video helpful! 👍🏻 thanks for the comment!
A good intro to reloading pistol ammo. Most people would probably prefer a progressive press, but understanding the manual process with a single stage press is very helpful, and powder measures, OAL, and priming steps were useful to demonstrate critical aspects of loading. One bit glossed over was seating/crimp in a single step, rather than a 2 step process, but that is more for progressive reloaders.
Hello Rob Sciuk! Thanks for the comments! I did gloss over that part so I made another video just for seating and crimping! Appreciate your feedback!
ua-cam.com/video/diLgHfozgbA/v-deo.html
Nice video, been reloading for about 2 years and always like to watch other people's methods and instructions. Always learn something from every video I watch. Sims like everyone explain the process in an unique way that sticks with me.
Hey thinking about trying to make my own. Is this the easiest way to go about it or are there any easier/faster methods.
@crharper25 this is a good video to start with. There are many more, mostly the same. You will learn to skip steps or modify them.
@@crharper25 sorry it took a while to respond. I’d suggest starting out like this. As you get more proficient, you’ll find quicker ways to do it! 👍🏻
Thank you for the video, as someone who's brand new to reloading, videos like this will definitely help me build confidence and knowledge in moving into this new hobby.
Welcome to the madness it's a deep dark hole but we'll leave a light on 😁👍🔥
What a terrific video explaining all the steps individually, thank you for taking the time to put this together! I'm not sure (I flat out don't lol) I have the patience for single-stage reloading but this was invaluable to me in order to learn each step. Thank you again!
@alexuram5984 - appreciate the comment! 👍🏻
Explained well. It seems very similar to the rifle rounds I reload especially when the case neck requires flaring
@hphillips7425 - thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
I thought I was the only one having problems with the RCBS primer tool! Good to know i am not alone. Great content! Thank you
I use to use corn media it makes fine dust you might want to switch to crushed walnut shell way less dust
Very clear explanation. I have reloaded for some years and would be very comfortable having a new reloaded view this for understanding what is wanted.
Hello Dn Callahan! Thanks for the feedback! Appreciate the comment!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Very helpful for getting into reloading. Great info for setting up the (3) RCBS dies.
Great video, thank you! I was always taught to not touch primers with your bare hands, as you don’t want your skin oil to get on it, so I just use tweezers and load them into the press. Thanks again for all your wisdom in this video!
Glad this video was helpful! 👍🏻
Wonder what them black gloves were for
@@itszach6808don’t want lead in my mouth when dipping. 👍🏻
This video was a lifesaver. Thanks so much!
Glad you found it helpful! 👍🏻
That's why you purchase two hand priming tools. One set for large primers and the other set for small. Avoid all the screwing around changing the primer ram.
I also like the wet tumbler method of cleaning the brass. It doesn't create dust, which can contain lead.
Appreciate the comment! 👍🏻
Should take a look at the Lyman 310 tool. That way you can feel the primer go in. I use when I reload MT 30 cal rounds. But for pistol I use the Dillon 550
I have watched several reloading for beginners and you seem to more careful and explain very well.
I have been reloading 50 years..
Thanks for your attention to detail
Thank you, I certainly will! 👍🏻
Very good information regarding reloading for beginners keep in mind another option for cleaning is with steel pins. Also instead of removing and using your barrel as a case gauge they actually make go no go gauges for finished ammo to make sure you’re in spec for shooting.
Hello Rene! I purchased a case gauge today! Thanks for the pointer!
I have case gauges, but do the "plunk" test always. Extra safeguard for me. My 9mm pistol is very finicky and temperamental, so I don't take chances. Now my 45 ACP very forgiving
Great video, wish this video was out when I started reloading, I leaned alot.
Great Tutorial, thanks for sharing! I never used the expanding die on my 357 mag loads and never had an issue. I just hold the bullett and case with my fingers until they enter the seating die. The Bullet seating die always pushed it in perfectly without trouble. I get why it is important on multi stage presses, but I feel like it's not necessary with a single stage press.
I am new to reloading enjoy your Step by step video’s
Thanks for the tutorial videos like these. I’m just starting and these step by step videos are super helpful.
Thank you so so much for this video. I'm about to start reloading soon and I've watched plenty of videos about the process but none like this one. Super greatful🙏❤️🇿🇦
Hello @TheeMastermindKing! Glad it was helpful!
Fantastic Video. I just got my setup Rockchucker Supreme and starting on 9MM before moving onto 223/243/300WM. Thank you for explaining how to set up the dies and using the calipers.
Everything was super informative. Only advice maybe I could give is you never want ant part of your hand above the open shell when seating a primer with any tool. I have seen primers go off on seating, and all of that will end up singeing your fingers. Great video!
John Leidorf - thanks for the feedback! 👍🏻
Thank you for this. I'm thinking about getting into reloading but I wouldn't have to patience to do it on a single stage press like this.
@lobbyrobby - you’d be surprised how you settle down once you get into the groove. Choice is yours!!! 👍🏻
Great step by step process. Thanks to you I loaded my first 9mm rounds ever. Now my investment will be paid off in about a year.
Glad to hear! 👍🏻
Doesnt seem cost so effective to reload after all the stuff you have to buy to do it is crazy Ty!
no one seems to talk about crimping why, like the video you can't talk about and shoe enough on reloading safety first Thank You.
@ronaldbogucki796 - I’ve come across different opinions regarding crimping. I personally use a crimp for a multitude of different reasons. I’m not here to talk people into crimping. I’m not suggesting that everything needs a crimp. I encourage people to explore the negatives and positives of using a crimp and decide for themselves. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
Very nice demo. I don't think you did the crimping part,, or did I miss that? I'd like to know how to add that.
@MusicMinisterJP7 - yes, I had forgotten to explain it in this video so I made a different one on seating and crimping.
Thanks for asking! Hope this helps. It’s a bit tricky until you try it a few times. Good luck! Let me know if you have any other questions! I’ve attached the link to the video below. Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
ua-cam.com/video/diLgHfozgbA/v-deo.htmlsi=Doz12gvS1lgWYNEs
@@k2defense I like how you went about your demos.. May I trouble you for another question;; I normally did rifle loads years ago (30-06 and 30-30), but now I've purchased a P320 9mm and have begun prepping the cases. However, I am a bit concerned if I am understanding the difference in pistol loads from the rifles. Meaning, with rifle's, a 52.5 would be figured using the left side ruler beam, with the .5 on right side ruler. But in pistol, is a 4.7g all basically on the right side ruler beam? I'm thinking yes. BUT, if I wanted a 5.2g , how would I get that, being the right side ruler beam only goes up to 5?
Is the then the 1st notch on the left side ruler beam, the 5? Can you please elaborate on this? I haven't seen a video that explaind this.. I'd appreciate it, thx.
@@MusicMinisterJP7 hello! Thanks for the compliment! May I ask which scale you’re using? I’ll be able to better assist you knowing which one you’re using. 👍🏻
@@k2defense Sure, Thanks, I have the RCBS 502 scale. I also have the Rock chucker press with the priming attachment. And I like that gizmo on your press, that ejects completed round into basket. Did you make it, or is it available?
@MusicMinisterJP7 - to get 5.2 you would move the left side weight to the first notch. That will be 5gn. On the right side you’ll move the weight to the 2. This will give you the 5.2. To get anything up to 5 you would only use the right side. Does this make sense?
The case ejector system is sold by In Line Fabrication. Tell Dan I sent you. Great company with quality products.
Here’s the ordering information:
inlinefabrication.com/products/case-ejector-system-for-rcbs-rockchucker-single-stage?_pos=1&_sid=91b82e0ec&_ss=r&variant=1001965276
You’ll love it!
Let me know if you have any other questions!
Thanks for the comments! 👍🏻
The handle on your press looks a lot more comfortable than the one I have on my RCBS. Also what is the contraption that knocks the round out of the holder after the press comes down?
In Line Fabrication. Tell Dan I sent you and he should offer my viewers a discount code since I send him so much business. 😂👍🏻You’ll love it. Here’s the website.
inlinefabrication.com/collections/case-ejector-system
Very informative. I've reloaded some shotgun shells before but always wondered about handgun ammo. If i had a good place to set all of this up, id be tempted to make the plunge.
Thank you for your content! Could you please do a video on gift ideas for reload enthusiasts like yourself? My father is a marine and a volunteer firefighter I want to get him the best gift this year! I usually just buy him ammo but I want to greater invest in his passion this year!
Check out this video. It will give you some additional insight on reloading equipment ideas. 👍🏻
ua-cam.com/video/euZl_mPOEkQ/v-deo.htmlsi=42LeDJl3mCqTaDcL
Could you write a description showing all of the equipment you are using? It would be helpful for those beginners trying to make sure they have all the tools ready to go for their first kick at the can.
@jameswoods5102 - Here you go! ua-cam.com/video/euZl_mPOEkQ/v-deo.htmlsi=2zoyFXrW-v_RwdeI 👍
Wow! Well done, and thank you Sir.
@DenaWald - thanks for the positive comment! Glad you found it helpful! 👍🏻
Great video. Really well explained. Thank you much brother !
Think BIG Bodybuilding Media - glad you found this helpful! Let me know if there are specific vids you want to see! I’ve got another 9 Mike Mike coming out this summer so keep a lookout for it. Appreciate the comment! 👍🏻 love your channel BTW!
You have earned my subscription. Thank you🎉
@kiss718able - thank you! 👍🏻
Dude. This video would've been perfect if you showed how to set the taper die. Thanks for everything else.
Hello @s.m.1129!
Yeah I went back and made it separately. Missed the mark I guess! 👍🏻
ua-cam.com/video/diLgHfozgbA/v-deo.html
Great video for beginners!
Good video, also very good work, all your measurements spot on
Thank you very much!
Nice explanation of the 9mm reloading process for beginners like me. Did you not crimp the cartridge ?
@f.h2986 - correct. I’ve had a lot of folks ask why, I honesty just forgot to add that portion to the video. So I then decided to release this video with an in depth explanation.
ua-cam.com/video/diLgHfozgbA/v-deo.htmlsi=pVVtjjL6GBqhc6UC
Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
Awesome detail to the entire process this video is extremely formative and also straight to the point great job thanks for the help👍
Outstanding Video !!! Which model Lyman scale are you using sir
@BryanEmenecker - here ya go! amzn.to/3Ww5571 👍🏻
Man knows his stuff.
Great video, many thanks for an informative and visual video. Cheers.
Just what I was looking for. Subbed , cheers from wet and rainy Alaska.
Hello RANDOMNATION! Cheers to you from Minnesota!
Excellent video I did not realize all the steps in reloading ammo thank you for sharing it with us
I have used an RCBS primer tool for years.
I liked the old primer system on the press but pieces got lost in a move.
I’ve seen the frailties U mention. Saying that, It has never missed a beat, but then I don’t drink beer when reloading.
Yea ! That’s a smart A$$ comment on my part; but ‘have first hand witnessed WIT-less individuals bad mouthing the practice because of a lack of common sense, low observation and failure to follow instructions. Good demo!
Appreciate the comments! 👍🏻
Where did you get the accessories for primer catching, shell hopper, and the spring ejector?
@1Dcorace - here is the website! Tell Dan I sent you. They have great stuff! 👍🏻
inlinefabrication.com/
I have to ask what is the accessory that you have on your reloading press that injects the shell and slides down into a basket
Hello! Here is the website. Tell Dan I sent you. They have great stuff! 👍🏻
inlinefabrication.com/
Hello K, how are you doing? I pray all is well, haven't heard back from you.
I’m back at it! 👍🏻
@@k2defense Thx,, I emailed you on my other email. Let me know if you received it.
I like shooting, but damn this is much more work than I was thinking, do they have a more modern but might be a little more expensive way of reloading?
@rajinbin - there are turret and progressive types of presses that cuts down on all of the steps. It is less timely but the accuracy could suffer. Reloading isn’t inexpensive but when it comes to shortages, as long as you’re stocked up on reloading supplies, reloading is a lifesaver. Hope this answers your question! 👍🏻
What’s the attachment that sends the rounds into the little black bucket after you seat the bullet?
@jhamersky059 - It's called a case ejector system by In Line Fabrication. Tell Dan I sent you! They have great service and decent prices. They'll take care of all of your add on needs.
inlinefabrication.com/collections/case-ejector-system
@ 17.31 You talk about making adjustments. However, you don't mention WHAT you adjust. The seat plug (which in your case appears to be fully down) or are you adjusting the die? Otherwise, excellent video.
Hello @adamjconstantino9598,
I made a couple of follow up videos to this video.
ua-cam.com/video/XaTmluSL4Ls/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/diLgHfozgbA/v-deo.html
Hope this helps explain things a little bit more. Please let me know if you have any other questions!
@@k2defense excellent followup videos. Thanks for the reply! Exactly what I needed
If you have any breathing problems, do not use the dry tumbling method. The dust gets into the air and will create more serious breathing problems.
@2pugman - great advice! Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
Just earned a sub.about to give this a whirl.appreciate the video.
Hello James Lee! Good luck and happy reloading! Glad you found this helpful! 👍🏻 thanks for the sub!
will this setup work with 350 Legend?
The set up for straight walked cartridges are all pretty much the same. There may be nuances that differ with the projectiles. So, yes, this should work for you. 👍🏻
How important is it to clean the primer pocket/flash hole, like 9mm compared to a .223 for example?
Just got into shooting so I'm a freshie
@hej221 - you’ll hear that some people don’t clean either. However, I clean both. I use the primer pocket uniformer and flash hole uniformer. Reason being, I have had primers blown out of the case and when I looked at the flash hole, there’s a piece of corn cob stuck in it. I’ve also had primers not seat well in the primer pocket because of the char left behind from the last use. I’ve also had new brass that has had pieces of brass left behind from when the cases were made. So, yes, I don’t skip steps when working the brass. As a new reloader remember that you want to be consistently repeatable when working your loads. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
Got the same RCBS hand priming tool. Been using it for 30 years. You NEVER let the handle shaft rod fully disengage from the end of the primer press and spring assembly.
Hold it in position while removing the frame clip and inserting the feed/shell holder housing, and the primer supply tray. Also, don't rest the primer supply tray on the index finger knuckle of your hand while squeezing the grip press system, and the tray won't work itself loose, and fall on the floor; ask me how I know.
Knowing what you're doing is generally the first solution to something that doesn't function properly.
Hey Busta thanks for the information! Always good to have someone else's perspective.
Hey there. I’m looking into the the Dillon 550 press as my first reloading setup. Do I still have to do all the measurements. Do I still have to do the trim length, expanding die and pocket cleaning steps or with the 550 take care of that?
@Slasherx28 - yes, you’ll need to do the case prep separately. Welcome to the world of reloading! 👍🏻
Cool! Where I live you need a license to reload, and I want to go for the course for the license. This actually is a great place to start, thanks
Cool! Keep us posted on your progress! Where do you live if you don’t mind me asking?
@@k2defense Iceland actually, I've had my gun and hunting licenses for a couple of years now and reloading seems like such a fun hobby... since I don't have a lot of time for hunting or target shooting while I have a young child around😂
@Liliththelizard awesome! Glad to see we’re reaching more and more people! Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
What is the little device that kicks the brass off the holder
Hi Caleb! Check out InLine Fabrication. @inlinefabrication Tell Dan I sent you. You’ll wonder why you didn’t buy this sooner. Speeds up the reloading process on the single stage. Feels like you’re going warp speed. 😂👍🏻
inlinefabrication.com/collections/case-ejector-system
Was thinking of reloading 9MM and 556 not because the money savings just in case can't get them. I reload all my shotgun shells where is the best place to buy the presses ?
Robert Stubbs - I’d suggest searching the web and looking at your local businesses. Price shop to save as much as you can. You can also find them on Amazon. This video goes into more granular details. 👍🏻
ua-cam.com/video/euZl_mPOEkQ/v-deo.html
Great vid! Learned alot
@kent3779 - appreciate the comment! 👍🏻
Thank you sir. New subscriber.
@marco77ar - awesome! Thanks for subscribing! 👍🏻
I sure appreciate your video. You’re a lifesaver. Thank you 🙏
Glad you found this video helpful! Appreciate the positive feed back! 👍🏻
GREAT info. Thank you.
Hello Michael Petty! Appreciate the feedback!
Another great video
I save close to 3.61 a round for 9mm reloading myself. And i can adjust different grain levels. I like to use 3.8 or 3.7 for 124 grain FMJ just standard ball ammo. 115 grain 4.4 pr 4.3, for a little hotter loads i go 4.8. I reload my own brass, 8 cents for primer, 0.15 cents for bullet and 0.02 cents for powder a scoop. 25 cents a round comapred to the 3 something for factory. Ill go reloading any day. I load on a lee loader classic 9mm. Everything starting out costed me 160, bullets, primer, powder, scale, and caliper.
@outlaw615 - thanks for sharing your reloading information! Appreciate the comment! 👍🏻
You forgot the step of pouring your own bullets. Dad used to pour lead and reload .357 & .44 Mag with lighter loads for target shooting only revolvers. So if you are buying slugs, powder and primers, what is your cost per cartridge?
Hello 600miles!
My cost is pretty inexpensive since I had learned my lesson after Sandyhook. I bought volumes of powder, projectiles, and primers when the cost was low. I agree that casting bullets is cheaper since most of the alloys are available for free or low cost. It is a time commitment, but the cost savings is big. To answer your question, with reusing my shells my cost is around 10 to 13 cents per round only because of had purchased all of my components while they were low years ago.
Thanks for the comment!
@@k2defense Dad left me 100 pounds of lead already made 357 & 44 slugs, I don't own those guns so remelt into something I can use, 9mm.
I accidentally bought 500 Winchester 335 9mm bullets without the casings from palmetto. Any advice on where i look to sell them to someone who can use them?
@James-Deep - are you looking to reload 9mm? If I understand your question correctly, you have the projectiles needed to do so. Maybe I misunderstood your question? Let me know. 👍🏻
@@k2defense No reload for me. Just a noob who bought the component part without casings on accident.
@James-Deep - Unfortunately I am unable to offer any suggestions as it goes against the “UA-cam Community Guidelines”. Sorry I cannot be of any assistance. Thanks for understanding. 👍🏻
What's a good guide for someone that has nothing. And has no experience. I'm not sure what to buy or what I need. What's good what's bad how do you use it all
Here you go! ua-cam.com/video/euZl_mPOEkQ/v-deo.html
I just reloaded 9mm and scaled up a few box rounds and came up with numbers from 11.64 to 11.69 grams my reloads scale up from 11.58 to 12.00 put cases on micrometer they seam to measure up good to powder weight is off what the heck?
Hello Clyde! Is this your powder weight or cartridge weight?
Great video!
Great info!!
Great vid thanks 🙏
Glad you enjoyed it!
great video.....
@budjohnson2990 - Appreciate the comment! 👍
Nice work !
Great content
Smart he has a case kicker
how much does all of the hardware cost to do this? After paying for all of the hardware and replacement pieces, is it really cheaper to reload? Especially when going to a range that takes your brass?
97JoMiller - reloading doesn’t save you money up front. You’ll need to invest money in order to get the things you need. The benefit will be when you have everything to make your ammo and you can’t find ammo in stores. It really all depends on what you’re doing, how often you shoot, etc. precision reloading is another reason to invest. If you’re looking to make that perfect round, there you go. If you’re a weekend warrior and want to shoot a pop can once in a while, I’d suggest just buying your ammo. Most reloaders I know are in it for the long haul, shoot a fair amount of ammo, and enjoy the art of making their own ammo. Once you start, it’s hard to stop. Here’s video to give you some ideas. 👍🏻
ua-cam.com/video/euZl_mPOEkQ/v-deo.html
@@k2defense thanks! I enjoy the art of all of it plus like you said about not being able to find in the store. My concern is I do normally go to the range so they take my brass so it's not like I can be like hey stop that, I'm picking it all up afterwards haha
Nice Video, Only comment: Trimming not needed on 9mm cases. I,ve been reloading 9mm for 45 years and trimming was never done or needed. Trimming is VERY critical on Rifle cases.
@@JBud1911 - appreciate your comment! 👍🏻
Steel wool using a DeWalt drill. Its on the back of the package that lee case length trimmer comes in. Save me 100 bucks lol 👍🤷🏻♂️
@dhooter - whatever works! 👍🏻
? Do you like grooved or un grooved and why
Hello Thomas Turner!
I assume when you say “grooved” your referring to cannelure. If so, I’ll use a cannelure type bullet if I work up a load with higher pressures wanted or needed. I don’t typically worry about crimping my plinking rounds even if they have a cannelure.
Because of todays shortages on everything, I’ll use whatever I can get my hands on.
Hope that answers your question!
That's alot of work.
Hello LeRoy Galvan! But the payoff is worth it!
This RCBS Primer Pocket Uniformer Machine is pretty cool 👌
@f.h2986 - worth its weight in gold! 👍🏻
I would not call this Book lightly worn. I would call it well loved 👍
@nemoex - don’t know if you heard me laugh when I said it or not, but you are very correct. WELL loved! 😂👍🏻
Is it actually cheaper to reload 9mm than buy factory ammo?
My material cost for my last run of 9mm was $0.151 per round. Current 9 mm retail is $0.38 to $0.90 depending on whatever BUT...your first round will cost close to a thousand dollars.
And here comes the labor time, material costs and equipment costs discussion.
If you spend $800 bucks for equipment, #40 for a pound of powder, $110 for a thousand primers and $25 for 100 match grade bullets or $68 for 900 powder coated lead bullets and use two hours of your time to make 100 bullets, how much does the first round cost? And you could spend much more for equipment if you want all the latest and greatest.
My 0.223 Remington reloads last run material cost was $0.282 per round. After 1,000 rounds my total cost including equipment is $0.526 per round. current retail around me is about $0.60 to $1.20.
If you see what I mean by equipment cost, you will understand that my first round cost me over $650. (I bought the equipment a few years ago, prices have increased)
To make these total 3,600 rounds has taken me somewhere around 50-75 hours of my time.
I've got a stockpile of bullets, primers and powder in the home as well. So that adds to my cost too. (within SAAMI and NFPA recomendations for in a residence) (Look up SAAMI and NFPA if you don't recognize them.)
I'm retired, no kids at home. Reloading keeps me busy and out of my wife's hair. She likes to shoot as well. I came close to running out of primers at one point, by my ammo inventory never dipped below 6,500 rounds during the past couple years.
You can make it cheaper, but you have to have the time, the initial investment, positive feedback from the spouse, workspace, and the storage space.
Oh, powder and primers a a Department of Transportation restricted shipping item. They cost extra to ship. Even when your favorite place has free shipping if you spend over 50 bucks, ad twenty bucks to cover this extra DOT shipping cost. And even though loaded rounds contain primer and powder, they don't have this extra shipping cost.
Hello ViciousMachine! Phil D nailed it. Exactly what he said. 👍🏻
@@phild8095 I figured match 223 was probably worth it but if it's that cheap for 9mm I'm going to go ahead and load that too. Thanks for the info.
@@Longrangetargets I can make my loads much more expensive. My latest primers were 110 a thou, and if I loaded a nice JHP I'd be up around $0.35 to $0.45 per round. But then JHP on the market these days is $0.90 to $1.50 a round. Most of my handgun ammo has been Berry's or Blue Bullets of Gallant. When I got started I had some cheaper Hornady JHP that didn't have the segmented or bonded jacket. They expand, but not like a nice XTP bullet.
Straight wall brass does not stretch from resize. If anything it shrinks. The only reason to trim handgun brass would be the heavy hitters so you can have a uniform roll crimp. Do yourself a favor....quit using the treated corn cob media. That treated lyman polish leaves a residue on the brass. Add used bounce dryer sheets Buy Blasting media from Grainger 14/20 grit and get some Dillon Case Polish. When filling a vibratory polisher....fill it half full of brass. Then add your media till over 3/4's full. Do not over use media it is cheap that treated stuff attracts so much crud.
Storing primers in an unmarked container is not a good idea. Especially not identified.
I see Berry's bullets on the bench...they are not FMJ. but copper plated. Plated bullets use cast bullet load data. One must be careful and not over crimp. Over crimping plated or coated bullets can strip the plating/coating off and lead to leading of the barrel.
One should always caution when reloading to know that what type of barrel you are reloading for conventional rifling or polygonal (Gen 1-4 Glocks and HK's come to mind). Lead and coated lead bullets generally are not recommended for polygonal bbls.
I agree, straight wall brass does not stretch like rifle brass. But using range brass from different manufacturers and using lead bullets rather than metal jacketed bullets, (Berry's plated, Blue Bullets, Missouri Bullet Co, Gallant, etc.)the difference in brass length can easily give you different crimp, greatly affecting pressure, velocity, impact and as you stated, leading.
Unmarked in reloading??? I even keep my loads separate and ID'ed by date, bullet, powder, primer...
Hello John E! Appreciate your input!
Hello Phil D! I should’ve shown my components a little better. I have everything marked for proper identification. Filming takes hours as well as editing. Anything that appears unmarked in the videos is closely regulated between me and my producer. Appreciate the feedback!
I know bullets are expensive, that's why I ended up looking into reloading. But with all the up front costs in tools, and all the consumable supplies, and all the time involved, is this really any cheaper in the long run? Now, if your argument is 'but what if you can't even buy bullets', well then I guess it's good to be able to reload. But for anyone looking to save money, this looks like you would have to reload thousands of bullets, and even then, what is your time worth?
@fredvStein - good question. I won’t complicate the answer or argue either way. In short, you are correct. Weekend plinkers will not “save” you from enough money in their lifetime to recoup the upfront costs of everything. I would tell those folks to go and buy as much ammo as you think you need to make yourself comfortable. I’m not suggesting stockpiling ammo, however find a number you’re comfortable with in case things are hard to buy at some point. I’ll never try to convince anyone that reloading will for sure save you money. Personally, it’s time that I get to do something that I enjoy. To work up a new round and see how it performs is cool, to me. Thanks for the question Fred! Appreciate the comment! 👍🏻
What about the crimp?
Here ya go! 👍🏻
ua-cam.com/video/XaTmluSL4Ls/v-deo.htmlsi=1FoxB1582YxClO6u
Buddy has a big snow stash in them jars lol
I remove primer , wash in a sonic wet cleaner, dry . then tumble ....the rest is standard prosedgers ..
Great tip! Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
you should put 10 charger on your scales to average it out
@jerremm - thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
I love reloading i reload all my rifle including my 9mm i dont know how to reload a 12 i have a hornady reloader but i dont know how
@SandraFreeze - that’s awesome! I’m guessing you meant 12g reloading? I haven’t started that series yet. I’m backlogged with everything I need to cover with regular reloading at this time. 😂👍🏻 I’ll get to it in the future though.