Lovely Video clip! Sorry for butting in, I would appreciate your initial thoughts. Have you tried - Mahorrla Wooden Paradise Method (erm, check it on google should be there)? It is a smashing one of a kind guide for building better sheds and woodworking minus the hard work. Ive heard some decent things about it and my close friend Aubrey after a lifetime of fighting got astronomical results with it.
UNCLEDOUG HERE YOU DID WELL / AND GOOD !! YOU DO WELL !! YOU TRIED AND GOT IT DONE !!!! MY HAT IS OFF TO YOU !! I HAVE WORKED MOST OF MY LIFE BY MY SELF !! AND I LIKE IT THAT WAY !!! IF YOU CAN DO IT YOUR SELF YOU DO GOOD !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I had never even read till earlier the lime in the concrete kills the copper in the treatment causing that. They say not to use concrete and wont allow it many places without a barrier coating now.
You can further protect the wood with a coating on the areas where the wood is making contact with the concrete, forgot what the stuff is called but it worked for me on several projects.
to avoid rotting posts drill 3/4" in in center of post, put1/2" rebar in concrete for post , then set post on rebar, will wobble , framing holds it in place. no rot
@@HandyGuy2016 thanks. I've seen on the net about a third of the length below ground is a good indicator & possibly no more than that. I'm in a clay soil area. Poor drainage. Which brings me onto the easiest way to dig the holes. Is a one man mechanical auger worth hiring? Do I need concrete in the hole? It's essentially just a lean to that I want to make deeper (longer) & possibly wider. Plastic corrugated roof. No real weight.
Hi, I know this an old post but I'm wondering how you fastened the purlins on edge like that to the trusses? Did you just toenail them or use some type of brace?
How long? 6 inch screws? Also, why did you place the boards on the roof woth the width facing up? A little narration on the roof would be great for us who are new to carpentry. But thanks for sharing anyway!
Did you really set the posts into concrete? Boy will you regret that down the road when rotting starts to appear even with gravel in the footing portion (saw the other comment and your response reply), should have got a protective sleeve to separate the wood from concrete but include nails or screws sticking out a bit to anchor them to one another and the sleeve allows for better drainage. Or for longer term should have made concrete piles into the ground and use wet set or drill set brackets to attach said post for a longer standing garage/shed.
Idiot, 60 years later it won't matter, mines even older than that and no rotting... People who think they know what they're talking about only learn their info through hearsay instead of experience
LetTheWritersWrite, pretty common for 4 or 8 foot on center spacing, doubled up on trusses for wide spans 40 feet and over 60 foot wide spans, 4 foot uses a eave support and stub to attach said truss too, for more better step by step just look up RR Buildings channel, he is posting a series. Some go so far do standard 16 on center spacing using a joist at the eave level.
@@HandyGuy2016 Hmmm. I live in north Alabama and we get 6 to 8 inch snows fairly often, albeit not the last 2 years. I lived in Sedalia. Mo. and I certainly wouldn't count on not getting a foot or more of snow at times there.
In Michigan, they won't let you cement posts. They call for creating cement footer, setting post on it, and burying it with dirt. Here post must be in 4 feet
Post 1. Material list 2.cost 3. Outside bid 4. Code for slab on grade 5. Permit requirements your community 6. Inspection requirements. 7. A vocal commentary about info or links to info. Income create a link to your web sight with free direct links and you can get a commission from sale.
Nice building. What was the height from gravel to bottom of truss? And what was your final mat costs??
Looks like nice digging! All rocks where I’m at.
Lovely Video clip! Sorry for butting in, I would appreciate your initial thoughts. Have you tried - Mahorrla Wooden Paradise Method (erm, check it on google should be there)? It is a smashing one of a kind guide for building better sheds and woodworking minus the hard work. Ive heard some decent things about it and my close friend Aubrey after a lifetime of fighting got astronomical results with it.
thanks for not putting shitty music to the video!
Do you have a rough estimate for material costs?
UNCLEDOUG HERE YOU DID WELL / AND GOOD !! YOU DO WELL !! YOU TRIED AND GOT IT DONE !!!! MY HAT IS OFF TO YOU !! I HAVE WORKED MOST OF MY LIFE BY MY SELF !! AND I LIKE IT THAT WAY !!! IF YOU CAN DO IT YOUR SELF YOU DO GOOD !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
GOBLESS
Having seen to many posts in concrete rot out, I’m wondering how this will last..love the concept
I had never even read till earlier the lime in the concrete kills the copper in the treatment causing that. They say not to use concrete and wont allow it many places without a barrier coating now.
You can further protect the wood with a coating on the areas where the wood is making contact with the concrete, forgot what the stuff is called but it worked for me on several projects.
What’s the post spacing? 10’ or 12’
@@jameswellssc 24' barn length, 4 posts per side. 6' spacing.
@@PepperDarlington Try again. 3 - 8' spaces between the 4 posts makes 24 feet.
I am surprised you went the full back width with no poles. I would think that wind would have the potential to push that wall in with no supports...
bro i was thinking the same thing! There should be a pole in the middle of the back wall at least, right?
@@mmmmmMuffinz Definitely ought'a have a post up the middle of that back wall.
The runners are called Purlins and good job!
On the side they are referred to as girts, on the roof is as you said.
Good video. Roughly how much did you spend on lumber
Around $1500
Very nice
THUMBS UP TO YOU BRO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
to avoid rotting posts drill 3/4" in in center of post, put1/2" rebar in concrete for post , then set post on rebar, will wobble , framing holds it in place. no rot
Till the bar rusts out.
No uplift prevention either. Buildings gonna go flying away.
@@austincairy5872 technically there would be some from friction, not much though...
How much would you suppose this would cost if one were to hire out for everything you built?....super curious. Thanks
Just a guestimate, but with current lumber and labor prices, 10 - 15K?
Roughly what was cost of all materials?
$3000
@@HandyGuy2016 awesome ty
What's a typical approximate depth for the uprights? What would be an minimum? I know its soil dependent.
Here it's 2 feet minimum, 3 is ideal.
@@HandyGuy2016 thanks. I've seen on the net about a third of the length below ground is a good indicator & possibly no more than that. I'm in a clay soil area. Poor drainage. Which brings me onto the easiest way to dig the holes. Is a one man mechanical auger worth hiring? Do I need concrete in the hole? It's essentially just a lean to that I want to make deeper (longer) & possibly wider. Plastic corrugated roof. No real weight.
Nice building, what is the interior height?
B Cooper 10' in the doorway.
Hi, I know this an old post but I'm wondering how you fastened the purlins on edge like that to the trusses? Did you just toenail them or use some type of brace?
Toe nailed using torque screws
How long? 6 inch screws?
Also, why did you place the boards on the roof woth the width facing up?
A little narration on the roof would be great for us who are new to carpentry. But thanks for sharing anyway!
When you nail in the purlins or headers to the pressure treat posts do you just use framing nails? Or do you you galvinized nails?
I used outdoor (treated) torque screws on all of the framing. Nails work loose over time, torque screws don't.
Right on. Do you know if you can use just framing nails? Or do the screws or nails have to be treated?
@@curtisnewell5066 you can use framing nails.
@@curtisnewell5066 If you're nailing PT lumber, use galvy nails.
Did you really set the posts into concrete? Boy will you regret that down the road when rotting starts to appear even with gravel in the footing portion (saw the other comment and your response reply), should have got a protective sleeve to separate the wood from concrete but include nails or screws sticking out a bit to anchor them to one another and the sleeve allows for better drainage. Or for longer term should have made concrete piles into the ground and use wet set or drill set brackets to attach said post for a longer standing garage/shed.
Ben A
Hahah👍
Idiot, 60 years later it won't matter, mines even older than that and no rotting... People who think they know what they're talking about only learn their info through hearsay instead of experience
@@otallono Bryan, go ahead and look up "post rotted in concrete" for article or video proof, it can and will happen.
@@otallono pressure treated lumber these days suck,you had cca treated lumber
cool
8 ft on center for trusses, is that even allowed anywhere?
Very common here, we don't have snow load to worry about.
uh....yeah
Lol
@@manuelguidry1657 treated??? I feel sorry for you and your family....I hope the off gasing doesn’t result in cancer.
do you have any of these plans in writing? that I could print?
Did u rent or buy the hole digger pls say brand where u got it and how$$
I rented it, cost me $100 for the day.
what is the final cost by DIY??
With today's prices, I don't know.
@@HandyGuy2016 thank you sir.
Could 4x6 be used?
Yes
what size was this barn?
16' x 24'
what pitch are those trusses
It's been a while but I believe 4/12
What size post
5"x5"
I noticed you didn't have trusses every 2 feet. How has that worked out for you ? Have you had structural issues?
LetTheWritersWrite No issues at all. This is a commonly used design in my area, it is quite strong and light weight.
HandyGuy 2016 awesome. Thanks for the response
LetTheWritersWrite, pretty common for 4 or 8 foot on center spacing, doubled up on trusses for wide spans 40 feet and over 60 foot wide spans, 4 foot uses a eave support and stub to attach said truss too, for more better step by step just look up RR Buildings channel, he is posting a series. Some go so far do standard 16 on center spacing using a joist at the eave level.
What type of snow load did you plan for with that style roof? What area of the country are you in?
Lol 🤣 what is snow? We get maybe an inch every few winters
@@HandyGuy2016 where u live?
@@mmmmmMuffinz Southern MO
@@HandyGuy2016 Hmmm. I live in north Alabama and we get 6 to 8 inch snows fairly often, albeit not the last 2 years. I lived in Sedalia. Mo. and I certainly wouldn't count on not getting a foot or more of snow at times there.
How did you attach the trusses to the 2+8, toe nail or hurricane straps?
Toe nailed with 4" Torque Screws.
no need for concrete, all it does is rot out the posts
Dan Garcia that is why I put gravel around the first few inches to allow moisture to seep out the bottom.
Little urethane or paint should keep them good for one persons life time not much of investment
That's what most is wrapped in plastic before u put it in concrete
In Michigan, they won't let you cement posts. They call for creating cement footer, setting post on it, and burying it with dirt. Here post must be in 4 feet
Post
1. Material list
2.cost
3. Outside bid
4. Code for slab on grade
5. Permit requirements your community
6. Inspection requirements.
7. A vocal commentary about info or links to info.
Income create a link to your web sight with free direct links and you can get a commission from sale.