Dude this has quickly become my favorite e30 project channel. Always awesome work mate cant wait to see the rest! Also great job on the welds. a small tip for welding thin metal. Use a piece of clean copper as a backer. Itll absorb alot of heat and prevent burn through a bit more. Cheers!
Awesome, really glad you're enjoying the vids, plenty more to come! A copper backer - sounds like a useful tool. I had seen others using a block of copper like that but I didn't really understand what it was for, but that makes a lot of sense now. It would have come in handy for this job. I'll have to see if I can pick one up, although hopefully not too much more welding to do! 😂
Hey mate. When you got too big of a gap between your panels, insted of putting 50 spots, get 20 cm of copper pipe and beat one end flat. If you put this behind the gap, and aim the welder at it, the welder will fire when touching the copper, but not melt it. The weld will flow and bridge the gap, leaving you with a nicer weld, and not a tumor looking blob (speaking of experience). Anyways, stellar job, one of the few channels who does it properly and who is a joy to watch :)
Thank you for the tip on that, I had a play around using a small copper block when welding since this video as a few people mentioned it to me. It is indeed a big help! I'm glad you enjoyed the vid, cheers! 😃
Great work mate , I would get your self a finger sander , either air or the electric version , perfect for grinding down welds especially in tight areas also you don’t run the risk of making the surrounding metal really thin
Cheers Jason! I have an electric one actually, a brilliant tool for getting in tight spots. Nothing beats the flap disc for speed and power though. Maybe you can get stronger finger sanders, I should have a look.
Love a bit of fabrication work. I did plenty on my e30. Both rear quarters, battery tray area. Usual places. It didn't stop there lol. Worth it to hear that 325i lump pure down the new scorpion exhaust on a sunny day 😃👍
Absolutely, they're all rusty these days, probably for a second time having been repaired once before too. 😂 I was certainly impressed by how yours came out.
@@SPANNERRASH yes your right, I took some filler and patches out of mine lol. Thank you for your kind words. Your doing a great job also! I wish I had more room to have totally stripped the shell like your doing. I'm looking forwards to seeing it done.
Awesome, get stuck in, you'll be glad you sorted it! I linked those panels in the description if that helps! Their name seems to vary in different places which is bloody confusing.
If you want to fill up a gap with welds, you can usa a piece of copper. Put the copper behind it, and you can weld it easily, and it's also nice and flat were you use the piece of copper. The weld won't stick on the copper, works really really good.
Ahh yes this is an amazing trick, someone else told me about this and I tried it out in a later video. It's literally amazing how it works, thanks for sharing.
It’s a real joy to follow along your restorations. With the tools you have your doing an excellent job. I hope you’ll proper seam sealed the gaps which are still there cause that is a little OCD thing with me, I will go pretty far when it comes to rust protection. Keep up the good work my friend!
Cheers Dennis, I really appreciate the kind words and I'm glad you're enjoying our vids. Don't worry I'll absolutely be packing all gaps with seam sealer and applying a proper underseal to the E30 too. I'd hate to have to do all this work over again! 😅
very enjoyable to watch (i have just watched all your e30 videos) i do enjoy an e30 restoration. For a Yorkshire man you are spending lots of money. I am trying to build mine with as little outlay as possible but we all know that runs out of control. Good luck with the rest of the build, i am looking forward to seeing the m50 fitted.
Cheers pal, really glad you've enjoyed the vids so far, many more to come as you can probably tell. 😅 As they always do on a project like this, costs are stacking up. I had delusions that it might be a bit of cheap fun at first too. 🤣 The hours I've put in so far do make me wonder how anyone could ever afford to pay someone else to restore a car.
Nothing to gringe about. Good work- Thats how its done. I would leave the primer spraying though. No reason to use it before welding if you can access it afterwards. Its meant to be used when, two or more pieces are sandwiched together.
Cheers pal! Yeah, I always get a bit too trigger-happy with the old primer. I expect to turn my back for a second and find out the job's flash rusted on me. 😂
Thanks pal, do you mean to avoid the bright light when welding? We tried to film through a welding mask before but it didn't work very well. Maybe we can come up with another idea I will do some research. 👍
Can see from just watching a few videos over the last couple of days how your confidence is growing. Fab. The welding skills are coming along too. To avoid any future ‘puddles’ would it be a good idea to make a strategically positioned drain hole??
Cheers Paul, 😃 Definitely starting to feel like I'm getting the hang of it! That's not a bad thought at all regarding a couple of drain holes. I'll have a think about that before I do any final finishes.
Great suggestion Marco, I'm tempted by that idea. I do need to fix that front support still too. I'll do some research, and if it looks simple, I will definitely consider it. Thanks!
@@SPANNERRASH I think it is. my problem is my car was mashed pretty good in the front when i aquired it. So the rad support was already way off. Getting the front end straight was a nightmare lol But if you can weld the brackets for the removable support in before cutting the rad support out its pretty simple.
One advice.. When making patches, avoid sharp corners, as you blown through on the right one. Cut a small rounded edge and try to fit the edge as best as you can, otherwise you will feel the "cumulative error summary" in 4 steps 😉 as we all know enough about. When you cut out the rusty spot, to make the rounded corners on the cutout, first drill holes on the corners, where you plan the edge, then meet them tangentially with the cutting disc. Drill holes on the patch before you weld and you got plug weld spots. 😏 There is a say: "why do it the easy way if you can make it the hard?" Hehee.. Many times this say is absolutely accurate. Good work, drop some antioxidizer in the gap for some minutes and blow it out with air gun, leave it to dry. Then mix some very thin paint and soak the gap in between until it pulls it throug, leave it to dry, after seal it. It's the best repairman gap (lap) conserving tip I can give you. If not, there is always a crack and even if sealed, at least air is in between and condensation also. Sometimes it's also extremely handy, with similar repairs, to have some small 40mm dial grinder, for smoothing out hard to reach places. Cheers, keep on!
Sounds like a good technique I'll have to give that a try! Really appreciate the pointers there pal, I really struggle to get patches that fit nicely to be honest. So much harder than it looks.
There are 3 primers I regularly use, zinc weld through if I am planning to weld something (but avoid using it under paint), etch primer for smaller bare metal jobs, or the ultimate, 2k epoxy primer (mixed then sprayed using a compressor). the epoxy is 1000% better than the other two. I'd recommend removing the other primers with thinners and replacing with epoxy before proper paint or risk reactions. Hope that helps!
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![Car Front Jacking Point Repair [BMW E30 Welding] How To DIY Fix Rusty Jacking Points On Cars | 031](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/h3_04Wkt5Uk/mqdefault.jpg)
![Car Front Jacking Point Repair [BMW E30 Welding] How To DIY Fix Rusty Jacking Points On Cars | 031](/img/tr.png)
![How To Spray Epoxy Primer Sealer [BMW E30 Engine Bay] Novol 2K Epoxy Primer Paint Guide | 037](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DOsn9a03D9Y/mqdefault.jpg)
Dude this has quickly become my favorite e30 project channel. Always awesome work mate cant wait to see the rest!
Also great job on the welds. a small tip for welding thin metal. Use a piece of clean copper as a backer. Itll absorb alot of heat and prevent burn through a bit more. Cheers!
Awesome, really glad you're enjoying the vids, plenty more to come!
A copper backer - sounds like a useful tool. I had seen others using a block of copper like that but I didn't really understand what it was for, but that makes a lot of sense now. It would have come in handy for this job.
I'll have to see if I can pick one up, although hopefully not too much more welding to do! 😂
Hey mate. When you got too big of a gap between your panels, insted of putting 50 spots, get 20 cm of copper pipe and beat one end flat. If you put this behind the gap, and aim the welder at it, the welder will fire when touching the copper, but not melt it. The weld will flow and bridge the gap, leaving you with a nicer weld, and not a tumor looking blob (speaking of experience). Anyways, stellar job, one of the few channels who does it properly and who is a joy to watch :)
Thank you for the tip on that, I had a play around using a small copper block when welding since this video as a few people mentioned it to me. It is indeed a big help!
I'm glad you enjoyed the vid, cheers! 😃
I’m a pro and I got to say you are doing very well improving all the time keep it up well done. David uk
Thanks so much David, really appreciate the words of encouragement there. 👍 I feel like I'm getting a bit more confident with it now for sure.
Nice job, taking your time and doing it right. Enjoy watching your show. Cheers
Cheers Barry, glad you are enjoying the project! 😁
Great work mate , I would get your self a finger sander , either air or the electric version , perfect for grinding down welds especially in tight areas also you don’t run the risk of making the surrounding metal really thin
Cheers Jason! I have an electric one actually, a brilliant tool for getting in tight spots. Nothing beats the flap disc for speed and power though. Maybe you can get stronger finger sanders, I should have a look.
nice job.. its best to put a paintable sealer with a small brush where you repaired inside engine bay.
Thanks Andrè! I will take your advice with that rather than using filler, a few people have said similar about filler cracking in this area.
Love a bit of fabrication work. I did plenty on my e30. Both rear quarters, battery tray area. Usual places. It didn't stop there lol. Worth it to hear that 325i lump pure down the new scorpion exhaust on a sunny day 😃👍
Absolutely, they're all rusty these days, probably for a second time having been repaired once before too. 😂
I was certainly impressed by how yours came out.
@@SPANNERRASH yes your right, I took some filler and patches out of mine lol.
Thank you for your kind words. Your doing a great job also! I wish I had more room to have totally stripped the shell like your doing. I'm looking forwards to seeing it done.
you’ve inspired me to get working on my touring, finally found what this panel is called so I can replace it!
Awesome, get stuck in, you'll be glad you sorted it! I linked those panels in the description if that helps!
Their name seems to vary in different places which is bloody confusing.
If you want to fill up a gap with welds, you can usa a piece of copper.
Put the copper behind it, and you can weld it easily, and it's also nice and flat were you use the piece of copper.
The weld won't stick on the copper, works really really good.
Ahh yes this is an amazing trick, someone else told me about this and I tried it out in a later video. It's literally amazing how it works, thanks for sharing.
@@SPANNERRASH No problem ! really enjoy your video's ;)
It’s a real joy to follow along your restorations. With the tools you have your doing an excellent job. I hope you’ll proper seam sealed the gaps which are still there cause that is a little OCD thing with me, I will go pretty far when it comes to rust protection. Keep up the good work my friend!
Cheers Dennis, I really appreciate the kind words and I'm glad you're enjoying our vids. Don't worry I'll absolutely be packing all gaps with seam sealer and applying a proper underseal to the E30 too. I'd hate to have to do all this work over again! 😅
very enjoyable to watch (i have just watched all your e30 videos) i do enjoy an e30 restoration. For a Yorkshire man you are spending lots of money. I am trying to build mine with as little outlay as possible but we all know that runs out of control. Good luck with the rest of the build, i am looking forward to seeing the m50 fitted.
Cheers pal, really glad you've enjoyed the vids so far, many more to come as you can probably tell. 😅
As they always do on a project like this, costs are stacking up. I had delusions that it might be a bit of cheap fun at first too. 🤣
The hours I've put in so far do make me wonder how anyone could ever afford to pay someone else to restore a car.
@@SPANNERRASH i have started on the bike videos now. Your dad seems to know his stuff
@@jerseytim100 taught me everything I know 😄
@@SPANNERRASH haha. I think your attention to detail is a lot higher than mine
Round of applause - and 'andshake from 'ull !! - old git, UK
Beautiful part of the world, cheers pal! 😁
Absolutely awesome job! Attention to detail is amazing! Y’all are making that thing like brand new!
Cheers Jordan! It's certainly satisfying seeing the build move forward. It's taking a long time but I know it'll be worth it in the end. 😀
Great work mate❤
Thank you! 😃
Nothing to gringe about. Good work- Thats how its done. I would leave the primer spraying though. No reason to use it before welding if you can access it afterwards. Its meant to be used when, two or more pieces are sandwiched together.
Cheers pal! Yeah, I always get a bit too trigger-happy with the old primer. I expect to turn my back for a second and find out the job's flash rusted on me. 😂
I enjoy watching the build, but please put a filter when welding :)
Thanks pal, do you mean to avoid the bright light when welding? We tried to film through a welding mask before but it didn't work very well. Maybe we can come up with another idea I will do some research. 👍
Can see from just watching a few videos over the last couple of days how your confidence is growing. Fab. The welding skills are coming along too.
To avoid any future ‘puddles’ would it be a good idea to make a strategically positioned drain hole??
Cheers Paul, 😃 Definitely starting to feel like I'm getting the hang of it!
That's not a bad thought at all regarding a couple of drain holes. I'll have a think about that before I do any final finishes.
That turned out really nice. 👍👍
Cheers pal 😁
Good job, are you gonna do a removable core support too ? For easier engine install with the gearbox attached ?
would love to see this. I tried it with my car and boy did i fail LOL
Great suggestion Marco, I'm tempted by that idea. I do need to fix that front support still too. I'll do some research, and if it looks simple, I will definitely consider it. Thanks!
@@nobiazcustomsinc5030 Oh, maybe not as straight forward as it sounds then? 😅
@@SPANNERRASH I think it is. my problem is my car was mashed pretty good in the front when i aquired it. So the rad support was already way off. Getting the front end straight was a nightmare lol But if you can weld the brackets for the removable support in before cutting the rad support out its pretty simple.
One advice.. When making patches, avoid sharp corners, as you blown through on the right one. Cut a small rounded edge and try to fit the edge as best as you can, otherwise you will feel the "cumulative error summary" in 4 steps 😉 as we all know enough about. When you cut out the rusty spot, to make the rounded corners on the cutout, first drill holes on the corners, where you plan the edge, then meet them tangentially with the cutting disc. Drill holes on the patch before you weld and you got plug weld spots. 😏 There is a say: "why do it the easy way if you can make it the hard?" Hehee.. Many times this say is absolutely accurate. Good work, drop some antioxidizer in the gap for some minutes and blow it out with air gun, leave it to dry. Then mix some very thin paint and soak the gap in between until it pulls it throug, leave it to dry, after seal it. It's the best repairman gap (lap) conserving tip I can give you. If not, there is always a crack and even if sealed, at least air is in between and condensation also. Sometimes it's also extremely handy, with similar repairs, to have some small 40mm dial grinder, for smoothing out hard to reach places. Cheers, keep on!
Sounds like a good technique I'll have to give that a try! Really appreciate the pointers there pal, I really struggle to get patches that fit nicely to be honest. So much harder than it looks.
What primer do you use? Is it some sort of weld thru primer or a regular primer?
There are 3 primers I regularly use, zinc weld through if I am planning to weld something (but avoid using it under paint), etch primer for smaller bare metal jobs, or the ultimate, 2k epoxy primer (mixed then sprayed using a compressor).
the epoxy is 1000% better than the other two. I'd recommend removing the other primers with thinners and replacing with epoxy before proper paint or risk reactions. Hope that helps!
Can’t wait to do this,
good job buddy!!👌
Thank you mate! I'm pretty satisfied with the repair on this one. 😁
Tidy job that 👍
Cheers pal!
fuck i just got an e30 shell for my first car, looks really rust free but god dam now i got to check there
😂 I'll cross my fingers for you mate, but the vast majority have this issue.
Congrats on getting the E30 shell, hope it treats you well!
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Hi, I was planning to keep the lighting OEM, but I will take a look, thank you.
@@SPANNERRASH No problem! Have you a look and find something useful^ ^
Don't put filler on the wheel well tower , too much flex , it will crack.
Fair point mate, I guess I will stick with the seam sealer there.