I like your content and how you're presenting IR-related topics very much. Probably overall one of the most informative, well structured ways to present a guide! Thank you! E: you should consider a second career as a teacher ;-)
Cheap lenses can give good results: Canon 24mm 2.8 pancake and the Tamron 17-50 VC 2.8 (quite cheap on eBay but 72mm filter!) for example. On the other hand, the IPhone 13 pro wide angle has big hotspot but can actually be useful in isolating subjects.
This may be due to inexpensive lenses having fewer lens coatings to address chromatic aberration. This is why vintage lenses tend to have fewer hot spots as well.
Interesting. Shift the camera which way, to a slightly different framing? I could see taking an image of a gray card and using that to build a mask for shots taken with that particular lens.
@@robshea I was thinking of a panoramic-type move, so yes different framing. Simply moving left, right, up or down so that there's enough overlap that's more than the diameter of hotspot.
It's very easy to create profiles using the DNG Profile Editor to help with white balance. Video here: ua-cam.com/video/mWAmW5fGFsA/v-deo.html With a little more effort, you can combine that profile with a color swapping LUT, which creates a profile that both helps with white balance and swaps colors, all in Lightroom. VIdeo on creating LUT-based profiles: ua-cam.com/video/jYk6Jr-0a_I/v-deo.html Written instructions for creating LUT-based profiles: blog.robsheaphotography.com/2020/06/29/lightroom-lut.html Save time by downloading the LUTs I've created: blog.robsheaphotography.com/2020/11/09/luts-infrared-video-photography.html
I had an x-T3 converted to full spectrum by Kolari and every single lens I've used has hot spots. XF 23 1.4, XF 23 2.0, XF 14mm 2.8 using Kolari standard filters and Hoya R72. I'm at my wits end with this camera and I'm ready to send it back to Kolari. I think they screwed it up.
@@robshea Thanks for responding to such an old thread! They are all in the center. They are not well defined perfect circles. More of a circular patch of fuzz that shows color shift and and a brightness increase. I am able to correct some of the effect with PS and LR but it's getting to be a PIA. All the filters used are 720nm. I'm wondering if that's the part of the issue. I've ordered a 665nm filter from Kolari to see if that's any better. I also have vintage Canon FD and some Pentax Takumars I haven't tried yet but I'm not expecting any better results from those.
@@raylotier You are on the right track. Try different combinations of filters and lenses to see if you can narrow down the culprit. Use a lens hood and shoot with the sun at different angles to see if that makes a difference.
Incredibly helpful!! Thanks so much, Rob. Your teaching style works so well with how I learn.
Thanks Rob, great overview of options!
Thank you, Karsten, for suggesting this topic, sharing your images, and discussing solutions!
@@robshea You are welcome Rob, your excellent work is much appreciated.
Another fantastic tutorial, Robb. I learned a lot, I really appreciate it!
I like your content and how you're presenting IR-related topics very much. Probably overall one of the most informative, well structured ways to present a guide! Thank you!
E: you should consider a second career as a teacher ;-)
Thanks!
Thank you for covering this topic! I just started IR photography, using an original fujifilm xf 35mm f/1.4 and the hot spot is bothering me.
Good stuff! Thanks
Cheap lenses can give good results: Canon 24mm 2.8 pancake and the Tamron 17-50 VC 2.8 (quite cheap on eBay but 72mm filter!) for example. On the other hand, the IPhone 13 pro wide angle has big hotspot but can actually be useful in isolating subjects.
This may be due to inexpensive lenses having fewer lens coatings to address chromatic aberration. This is why vintage lenses tend to have fewer hot spots as well.
I have a Sony A7. The 55 1.8. No hot spots at all.
The possible best way is to take another, identical, photo but shift the camera between images, before using a layer mask to mask out the hot spot.
Interesting. Shift the camera which way, to a slightly different framing? I could see taking an image of a gray card and using that to build a mask for shots taken with that particular lens.
@@robshea I was thinking of a panoramic-type move, so yes different framing. Simply moving left, right, up or down so that there's enough overlap that's more than the diameter of hotspot.
Easiest way to add IR profiles to Lightroom? Just use the Adobe DNG Profile Editor? Thanks!
It's very easy to create profiles using the DNG Profile Editor to help with white balance. Video here: ua-cam.com/video/mWAmW5fGFsA/v-deo.html
With a little more effort, you can combine that profile with a color swapping LUT, which creates a profile that both helps with white balance and swaps colors, all in Lightroom.
VIdeo on creating LUT-based profiles: ua-cam.com/video/jYk6Jr-0a_I/v-deo.html
Written instructions for creating LUT-based profiles: blog.robsheaphotography.com/2020/06/29/lightroom-lut.html
Save time by downloading the LUTs I've created: blog.robsheaphotography.com/2020/11/09/luts-infrared-video-photography.html
Great
I had an x-T3 converted to full spectrum by Kolari and every single lens I've used has hot spots. XF 23 1.4, XF 23 2.0, XF 14mm 2.8 using Kolari standard filters and Hoya R72. I'm at my wits end with this camera and I'm ready to send it back to Kolari. I think they screwed it up.
Are the hot spots in the center of the image or at the side edges in the middle?
@@robshea
Thanks for responding to such an old thread!
They are all in the center. They are not well defined perfect circles. More of a circular patch of fuzz that shows color shift and and a brightness increase.
I am able to correct some of the effect with PS and LR but it's getting to be a PIA.
All the filters used are 720nm. I'm wondering if that's the part of the issue. I've ordered a 665nm filter from Kolari to see if that's any better.
I also have vintage Canon FD and some Pentax Takumars I haven't tried yet but I'm not expecting any better results from those.
@@raylotier You are on the right track. Try different combinations of filters and lenses to see if you can narrow down the culprit. Use a lens hood and shoot with the sun at different angles to see if that makes a difference.
@@robshea We shall see. Thanks for your input.
Also, your videos have helped a great deal! Thanks.
Used the word “attack” too much.