Removing Broken Exhaust Manifold Studs From FE Ford Cylinder Heads
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- I thought these would be easy... but as soon as the camera came out, they got tougher!
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Nice work bud. I extract broken bolts the same exact way. The UA-cam mechanics and keyboard warriors are certainly frustrating, half of the people that are leaving all their "advice" have actually never done this in a real life scenario. I like your methodical and patient approach
An older guy got me started melting some paraffin wax on the threads after warming with a torch. The wax will wick down the threads towards the heat so keep that in mind when warming. You can usually burn the wax off and wire brush a clean enough spot for a weld later if need be. Oils tend to leave more residue that's tougher to clean.
I prefer to TIG weld a buildup on the stud, but not everyone is fortunate enough to have a TIG machine in their garage.
Hooray for growing up working on trucks and tractors in the rust belt...
I never had much luck with MIG especially with a nut since it's hard to really get some heat into it. Now that I have TIG I just camp out a long time pumping in heat until things are really hot and melty, then add filler. I also forgo the nut and just weld on a piece of scrap which then functions as a handle. If you get a little motion but can't get any further, try some tapping fluid. The EP additives will help wind out the bolt. (Caveat: I do almost entirely stainless bolts in aluminium; normal penetrating oil probably works good or maybe better in all iron setups.)
Getting broken bolts out is definitely a exercise in patience. Whatever works for you is the best way. Thanks for sharing your time.
I use your method too (heat, air hammer, welder). With a stud broken off flush, I'll also drill a hole in the stud, then weld a washer to the stud first, then weld a nut to the stud. Seems to help. The depth of the nut makes it hard to get good penetration into the stud, whereas the washer gets you closer right away.
It’s even more fun trying to stick weld a nut to a broken bolt or stud. This is the life of a field mechanic.
The 75 F350 I'm working on sat for over 20 years. I had to drill out the the top bolts and retap. Tried every trick in the book, and it came down to that. Thankfully, it worked out pretty well since I was using a milling machine to get it precise.
Thanks for sharing the process, setbacks and all. Hoping this new year sees your business prosper.
I use a wet rag to quickly cool the bolt with welded nut. Some say this weakens the weld but I have had times where I did not cool the nut and it broke right off, but after cooling it comes right out. I do this all on cast iron.
Ford also used exhaust manifold bolts that were self locking.
The root of the thread is a radius, and slightly larger than a standard 3/8-16 bolt.
Nice work! I have good luck drilling the threads out the nut first. It gets rid of the silver zinc finish and the weld is better without the zinc contamination.
I love extracting broken taps! Full send
Great job. Slow and steady wins the race for broken bolt removal 👍🏻
Good Video Although it may work better with a TIG, welding a flat washer to the broken bolt and then welding the nut to the flat washer works very well.
FEs are my jam, hope you guys have some more FE head rebuild videos coming up!
Boy is this a flashback for me by about 45 years. Those things were a PIA. If I had part of the bolt sticking up high enough I would use a similar tool (KD?) but first I would spray some penetrant, heat it and let it set for a few hours or overnight. Heat again then try to back it out. If they snapped off lower and I would grind them flush and find the bolt center and drill. I think those were 3/8 threads so I would use something around 5/16 drill but I can't remember. Anyway it would usually leave a minimal amount of material in the threads to where I could almost use needle nose pliers or a small drift to pull it away from the threads. I would just run a tap through it to clean things up. It was rare to use a heli coil.
Since I learned the welding trick thats my go-to over most else. Last resort is drilling. I hate that resort! I sure wish I knew more of these tricks when I was younger and had a ford wrecker with FE motors! Lol looking forward to many videos.
Nice job and a great video.
On the last procedure of drilling the stud out, sometimes a Center Cutting End Mill will work better when a drill bit wants to wander off to one side. Thanks
Try candle wax and a lot less heat. It’s like magic.
I do quite a bit of exhaust manifold work on aluminum heads, I work at a ford dealership, 5.4 2 and 3 valve issues. I have good luck with the mig and a torch. In cast I like to heat with a torch and get it pretty hot, and if I can get to the backside of the stud, I’ll heat it even more, get it to almost cutting temp. It’ll get the stud soft enough to come out, sometimes I have to heat several times cause it’ll cool down and start to bind. You might of been able to do that with those heads.
Thanks for sharing, straightforward and informative, good work buddy, and happy new year
Weld a washer on first then a nut to the washer! I’ve used this technique for many years. You will get a good penetration to the washer! You can’t trying to weld down through small hole in a nut. Try it you’ll wish that you had been doing this way all along! And yes it’s strong enough. Try to pick your thicker washers.
KLANN stud extractors from Germany are outstanding-
I like putting the tappy-tap directly on the bolt, in every direction IO can, a lot more then on the metal surrounding it.
Those exhaust bolts in the tabs (through holes) always seem to break. I stopped trying. I drilled mine straight through, and used stainless hardware (bolt/lock washer/nut) to hold my headers in place (1972 ford pickup, long tube headers). So far this solution has worked flawlessly, and if I have any trouble, like the continual exhaust manifold gaskets that seem to blow out a lot (although mine are hanging in there so far) I can twist them in half if necessary. Second time I've done this to an FE, and so far no issues ever came up.
Good morning, my machine shop guy is old school. He uses the blow torch to remove the studs. He warms the stud up until it is molten and then a slight cutting shot of air and the old stud falls right out. The torch won't cut cast iron so this process works really good. Hope this helps. Take care and good luck.
Just did 2 on my turbo, broke flush, even after heating cherry red, while it was on the Perkins. Best way: nice sharp bit, center it up good, drill it to tap size to original size . Only took a couple hrs.
Interesting. I've always drilled and heli-coiled the rusty studs. Might have to try your way next time.
love the FE engine we put FE 390 in a 80s T bird
I usually weld a large washer to the stud as it’s easier then weld a nut to the washer,it seems to work ok. Keep up the excellent videos 👍
Oh yes FE heads the pain and cus words that it take when removing exhaust manifolds but, I love the FE best motor ever.
Remflex gaskets rebound, or swell. They work great.
Great video love the welding attempt I would say one thing as an engineer myself I would.never reccomend using an impact gun ir impact driver ti run a tap through its a sure fire way to snap a tap then it's back to the drawing board
I have found that If you can get centered up on the broken bolt and drill through it or all most through it you can run a weld in the hole and it will shrink the bolt and make it come out easier 👍😊🌎🌞
4:49 caught you using squinters. BUSTED. lol
The way i remove broken studs is to use 1/8" X 1: flat bar, i drill a hole one size smaller than the stud near the end, i can get a better weld because i can see my weld, the flat bar i use will be long enough to use as a handle.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I really love that tool that you were using. I think tomorrow if my migraine is gone I'm going to spend a little time looking for one.
I usually have success the same way you do with making small movements left and right left and right. I also use my secret oil. I always use Aerokoil this stuff is absolutely the best on the market. I have tried almost every commercial available can of oil and I have found this is the only one that actually works. In the past I'm not going to give the name of the stuff it's not right it's a bad mouth then since this is my opinion but I can tell you that you could spray almost the whole can blasting the stuck fastener. And when you are able to get it out the bottom thread do not show that the oil ever made it down that far. When I use my golden can of oil the very very first time and I mean it wasn't sprayed on for 5 minutes before I try removing the same passenger and it came out so easy I could not believe it. On that fastener all the way from the top to the bottom of the thread got penetrated by the oil.
Anyone who's not familiar with this I will tell you up front this is not from cheap oil and I don't even think you can walk into a store and buy it. I normally find the best deals on Amazon when it comes to this and they have a new shop size that I have ordered. I can is normally 23 to $28.
Also I did not know that about aluminum versus iron heads when it comes to welding up a nut on top of it. All the few times that I had used your welding method they were all on aluminum heads. I think in my entire life I never broke a fastener off on cast iron.
Let me ask you this. There a lot of videos on removing a broken bolt what could someone do so the next time when you go to take something apart again how can you prevent it from sticking in the threshold? On blind holes I don't I don't like putting anti-seize on my threads I worry about expansion as I tighten the fastener. Or is there really no 100% way of preventing this from happening again.
I also like watching you use your drill press or the fancy name that it's really called -). I never thought about making sure that the piece on drilling out needs to be perfectly level. That has never once enter my mind on the few times that I've had to use my drill press.
I really love you taking your time to share your knowledge with the world. When the Internet was developed this was one of the things they wanted people to use it for. They want people around the world to be able to share knowledge and information on different activities and you never need to get on a plane to expand your knowledge.
Look forward to your next video and as I always do I give you the big thumbs up.
I noticed that if you ues non galvanized nut for this it works better. The galvanized surface oxidizes and weakens the weld. That's just my thoughts about it.
Good Job. Keep up the good work.
Love your videos. I subscribed after watching you tap a hole with an impact the first time :) That and I love the Serdi work.
Regarding your dangerous tapping method, when you're doing this for a new hole, do you use a slightly larger drill? Asking because you make it look so easy :) I've been experimenting with using an impact for a M8x1.25. You can find various answers on what size drill to use, but most seem to say that you take the size minus the thread pitch (which doesn't make sense to me, but I'm not a machinist). That gives you a 6.75 diameter bit, which is indeed what most of the drill/tap kits come with for a M8x1.25, but it seems really tight and some of my customers are breaking taps by hand. I'm definitely not using an impact on the 6.75mm hole. I've experimented with 6.9mm drills as well as large as a 7.5. It seemed to work fine and I was able to impact tap it, but the threads looked too small.
I did change to a 2 flute gun tap (vs standard 4 flute) which I think is better, but still seems pretty tight.
Yeah you pretty much tried everything. One problem I had was an m6 or m8 bolt break coming out in the middle of a aluminum head between cams, about 4-5” below the cam in a valley. I thought I may have to pull the head. Called a machinist who came out and instead of trying to drill he took a 1/4” carbide burr bit smaller than the bolt and just bored it away with a right angle grinder. Then ran a tap through it. He said he buys the really cheap burr bits and just burns them up as it took less than 20 mins on that bolt. Thought this may have helped on the last one.
Nicely done! Now if only they all came out as easily as the first one... lol.
I finally went back to a cheap Century stick welder for FE and Cummins exhaust bolts. I can drive the electrode into the stud and nut for penetration impossible to achieve with the wire feed. Then I can bang the daylights out of the bolt with an air hammer.
It seems that Ford (and Dodge/Ram too) trucks are notorious for breaking exhaust manifold studs (even the newer ones).
am farmer with lotsa of broken studs so very helpful. also have fe heads. on your air hammer, is that a brass punch to loosen bolt ? where do you get that ?
Great video! What are your go to drill bits to drill out broken bolts?
since you have access to a mill, next time try finding the center hole and starting with a much smaller left hand drill thru and step up a couple drill sizes and repeat until it backs its way out of the hole. then instead of using a regular tap ,try using a roll tap which will reform the threads and not take out any more metal out of the threads. ive been a machinist for 40 years and have used this way too many times, mostly on other peoples failed attempts .
Hey guys great channel. I'm curious to know if you guys do a lot of rebuilds on f150 lightning motors? Or are they pretty solid?
Good videos, I was wondering if there is any prep a guy can do to a block core at home to see if it a viable core for rebuild vs taking it in as It would be a 100 mile trip one way to go see my closest engine machinest, general cleanup and the like
Nice work
REMFLEX !! 💪💪💪
A friend of mine needs cylinder heads for his hemi pickup. He bought it used and some of the bolts were messed with / hidden under putty. Broken bolts go figure... What do I need from you guys to get a price on the exact set of Reman cylinder heads? Also any recommendations at the time when changing the heads. Also since the heads are damaged I don't know if there's going to be a core charge you would have to let me know that also.Thank you
Stud remover tool may be a K&D brand tool. But hard to say for sure.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for watching!
i have a pair of heads in the trunk of my car i need to do this too..same heads (likely exact, 67 352)
Question; what make is your engine stand? I saw it in a previous video. Thanks.
Which one? The teardown stand that is blue is an AXE Equipment stand. If you are talking about the gray "heavy duty" one I would have to check what brand it is and let you know!
5:37 Damn skippy. If I had access to that equipment I'd chuck an end mill on there square the end up. Then drill it out. Would probably be my go to for anything just under flush.
Love Ford FE Engines but hate the upper row exhaust studs. I have had broken studs on 383 Mopars, 460 Fords and Small Block Chevys any 40 year old engine can have this problem.
You have a great channel...
Thank you!
Since it's a through hole couldn't you use a normal drill and maybe thread it out the back?
Rule 101 of engineering never use battery tools when using a tap
As a small engine mechanic I am often working on smaller bolts in aluminium perhaps 4mm. I find this technique difficult at that size. Any tips welcome.
Do you have a TIG machine? At 4mm it's definitely getting into a challenging realm. If it were me, I might try taking a small washer with an ID that is almost exactly the OD of the bolt and weld it to the bolt w/ the TIG machine, and then weld a nut too (which can be done with TIG, it's just easier with MIG in my opinion).
Hard to say, but we have pretty good luck down to ~6mm in aluminum but don't see much smaller than that in our shop.
@@JAMSIONLINE only a mig.
👍
Better way is weld a washer to broken stud. Then weld a nut outside to the washer.
I've had better luck welding a washer to it before i weld the nut on. Much easier to get a strong weld.
I always like to leave this comment one day we're trying to remove a broken stud in the machine shop I worked in on Old Time gentleman walked in and said hey you some paraffin wax instead of WD-40 it doesn't burn off when you heat up the item you're trying to loosen the stone on the stuff work like butter on a hot knife paraffin wax is the greatest way to get a broken bowl out or loosen something that's very Rusty nut or bolt with a little bit of heat.
You did everything but quenching. Heat the stud red hot with the weld, then quench with cold water. Then use a 3/8 impact gun with the air turned way down. You want enough hammering from the gun to break the bond, but not enough to break the weld. The constant impacting will actually generate heat, and flex the fastener. I'm like you, I'll only drill and helicoil as a last resort.
Can anyone tell me why some engines have the piston pins pressed onto the connecting rod and others use piston clips?
Sorry, my english is not the best😅
If you weld does not sound like eggs in a fri pan it is not a good weld
Nice work..but maybe clamp them heads down..save you a broken head, or foot.
👍💖
Notification squad!🔥🔥🔥
Always can count on you!
💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
that style tap is not meant to go that deep. you are opening up the diameter. just a heads upfrom a machinist.
Let's go
Let's go where?? Why does everyone leave a stupid comment that says let's go? That literally means nothing lol. I suppose it's better than the 12 people that leave the comment "first "
Brandon!!!
Cot dern Ferds 🤦🏼♂️