I'm pushing 80 yrs old, past my prime for working on anything anymore. but it's reassuring to know that there are still people/craftsmen out there that still do take their work seriously and do it right kudos!
I told you in the last one about my shop back in the 60's and 70's.. I didn't have any machine tools and always took them to a shop down the road.. Now I wish I would have gotten at least a few of them.. But then if I did that I would have probably switched careers and construction took me all over the world.. DAMN SWEET.. you are hooking me big time.. on to the next one!
I got to "play" in an automotive machine shop for a while when I was in my early to mid 20s. (1980 ish). Resizing rods was one of my favorite tasks. Very satisfying!! Nice work.
Really really nice video... It warms up an old Machinist's Heart to see all this nice oldschool machining....no cnc...just skills...the right way to do it... Thanks for taking the time to make the video and share it.
Never cared for angle cutting rods, felt like it puts a bending load on the bolts, but it is great to see a step by step explanation of the whole rod resizing process. Definite fan of deburring the parting line. Used the same Sunnen equipment for years.
I still have my old sunnen honing machine that was in my Gramps Shop.Dont use it much anymoore but it still works and after i sold my shop i kept the old hone and a few other machine shop tools just to have something that reminds me of my grandparents.I enjoy watching your vids,keep up the good work young man.
Whenever I reconditioned conrods, especially ones that had spun, I would get them sized to -.0005 inch of the low side and loosen the nuts/bolts, then retorque. That way it would relieve any stress in the bore and make for a more cylindrical bore. Try it, you'll see what I mean. Btw: I believe ARP recommends torquing the fasteners 3 times before use. Keep up the great videos!
As a machinist I was taught h but we used to hone them hot at zero and they would cool down almost at the correct size you want to have two to three tents
I really love your work thanks for letting us join you man I've always enjoyed your shorts so watching the crankshaft work nice to see the craftsman at his trade and your dad's a pretty cool character for teaching you that stuff and thank God you want to learn it nothing can make a father happier than for his son to join him in his trade and life. Watching you demagnetize the rod reminded me of deguassing a television tube. I've done a few of those back in the day. Thanks so much guys.
Thanks for showing how much goes into rebuilding an old motor that had problems This is the kind of work that I could not do as you guys have patience and precision machines to do the work correctly. Thanks once again for your videos !!!
Great work!! Thank you for sharing this! I know how much time and effort goes in to making videos and you obviously have better things to do! So again, thank you for sharing this with us!! Keep up the good work! 👏🏼👊🏼👍🏼
Another great and educational video. Thanks for taking the time to share ur knowledge with us. To bad ur not in Oklahoma cause I'd love to get a motor and come hang out in the shop and help build it and learn the right way of doing things. Great job man looking forward to the next one!👍🤙🇺🇲
I worked in a machine shop when I was a teenager, resizing rods was my first job. We taper ground the rods and there is no parting line after you hone them
Great format great content. I like that you don't dumb it down and use machinist language. That may not be a performance build, but with the attention to detail that things going to run like sewing machine. Quickly becoming my favorite channel.
In some Automotive applications if The Parting line is excessive you can angle cut the rods and caps this will give you better bearing Crush but the X Factor is always top priority
Amazing videos , thanks for letting us behind the curtain, I can see that there are so so many places for things to get messed up , The steps involved need to be so precise , and it’s amazing that people do this ……..they say that real machine shops are gone to the waste side , and that no one does the details like the used too ……well I see you guys here and I’m glad your carrying the torch to the next generation How ever I do have a question , as a long time reader of all the regular magazines , they would say so often , bring this down to your local machine shop and have them do a procedure , and they said it as if you guys where like 7-11’s , ( I.e Ready and available , and affordable) Looking at the service you provide , what should one expect to pay for these procedures ( ball park ) ( Those old magazine writers still think it’s 1960 ) Just curious , From the standpoint if your going to do it do it correct .. keep up the great work and the videos , great ,educational and Informative
Arp rod bolts! Stock rod bolts are only good once and can't handle the Poncho torque,also run full groove main bearings helps better positive oiling .. ..Yes it works! Handles 5500-6000 and still going strong 14yrs later!
I must have watched you use this machine at least five times now, before I realized the grinding wheel was oriented vertically, grinding the bottom of the piece held by a vice in your hand. Somehow I had it in my brain that your hand was on the piece, and I kept wondering how you were pulling out a flat piece. I’m getting a lot out of these older videos, I guess I need all the help I can get!
I wish UA-cam existed 20 years ago. I would go to engine rebuilders and ask them about re-sizing rods and they looked at me weird and would tell me if I was worried about it, just buy a new rod. Ask 10 people the same engine rebuilding advice, and I would get 11 different answers.
Conceptually I never understood how a rod was able to be resized. I knew it could be done, but I didn't know the process. This video cleared that up. This channel should be binge watched by real car guys
When doing Rods.... cooling is important yes..... but so is "stress relief" by cracking the caps off and re-Torquing the Rods again prior to final sizing.... that 'final' sizing itself determined by zero'ing a Dial Bore Gauge to the Crank Journal then Torquing up a Bearing in one of the cracked/dis-assembled 'roughed' Rods and going in with the Dial Bore gauge on the bearing to visually SEE where you are at for clearance. TO WIT: the learning curve here should be twofold 1.) the Rods are 'stressed' from Rough sizing.... and even if you cool them down ? they will still SHRINK 2-3 tenths on the AG300 the first time they are cracked/dis-assembled.... so best to do it before FINAL sizing 2.) This 'stress relief' cracking/dis-assembly prior to FINAL sizing is an opportune time to Torque up a Bearing.... Zero a Dial Bore Gauge off the Crank dimension.... and go in and SEE where you are at for clearance ?... so that when FINAL Sizing you can 'adjust' that sizing and resultant bearing 'clearance' to desired ? Special Note: the above is WHY when doing Performance/Blueprint work... you should ALWAYS be Grinding your Cranks to the Lowside/small side of the tolerance to allow "room" for yourself to adjust Vertical Bearing Clearance as per the above described procedure and stay within Rod Big End tolerance(good bearing crush) Same thing when doing Line Honing of Mains.... STOP .0005" before entering the tolerance range.... cool and crack the Caps... install one main bearing/Check bearing clearance with another small Dial Bore gauge zero'd off the Crank....Re-Torque the Caps and proceed into tolerance range to achieve desired bearing clearance from your check. Example: If you stop at .0005" before tolerance range, Torque up a Main Bearing and 'see' a clearance of .0015" ? then you know that when Final Honing the mains you can safely go another .001" Honing (enter the tolerance range from the -.0005" to "0" then to .0005") and you will have .0025" Bearing Clearance ?
Fyi. The center to center of the bores gets closer together when you grind off the splits. Be better to make them all the same. That way you can deck the block a bit and have all holes with the same tdc heights.
Our shop used to use the side of the crankshaft grinding machine(if the pin and rod surfaces were on the same plane) to 'true up' the straightness of the rod. Worth it? Don't know but we did it anyways if it worked.
When I rebuilt the 396 from his '65 Impala SS I inherited, I used a new set of Manley rods and just got it over with. Those early rods were questionable at best, and by the time I reconditioned them I'd have been into the old ones more.
I have built many 7000+RPM BBC ovel track winning engines with stock shot peaned rods.That didn't make little pieces out of big pieces. One question how much money did you make on Manleys vs Recon and new for bolts.
only thing i did not see you do. but you probably did.. was use a drill bit to cut a relief for the radius under the head of the ARP bolts. so when torquing the bolts the radius does not try to split the rods..
Nice job! I'd be curious (if you don't mind sharing) the total time it takes to rebuild those connecting rods from start to finish. With the shop labor rates so high in the USA these days, in some cases, people cheap out and buy inferior Chinese copies for less cost than to have a machine shop rebuild the OEM originals.
@@JAMSIONLINE Thanks for the response with the answer. You do beautiful work. Folks need to understand how much better the reconditioned OEM rods are vs. the new cheap/junk aftermarket parts are. It's always worth paying a competent machine shop more to recondition original OE parts.
This is the first time I have seen a honing machine that moves the rods for you. You answered a lot of questions regarding connecting rod resizing! Our honing machine is like yours but you have to move the part by hand. I like the angled cut trick! Is the rod egg shaped because of the bearing removing material or did the steel actually bend slightly?
esp, since Pontiac connecting rods are Armasteel. Only the Super Duty rods are forged. If this was a performance machine, off-the-shelf aftermarket Big Block Chevy rods would be ideal.
I liked it. Was curious what you guys thought or know about removing the parting line on the side beams? I know cast rods aren't the best, but do you think polishing them would benefit them? Thanks.
Good video. Just a comment, if the rod was blue from heat before shot peen, the heat treat could have changed. You could Rockwell test the big end and see a difference. Possibly.
That's cool they replied to your comment. Also does it have to be blue from heat to change the shape/strength both elastic and plastic of the metal? I imagine it's material dependant. Like aluminum would suffer more from less heat as opposed to steel or other metals.
@@bobmotherfuckinsmith3089 I believe it is heavily dependent upon material type, mainly its carbon content. Old school heat treat was often done by color change, but with good knowledge of the material. Most Pontiac rods are cast armasteel which is a gm spec material, can't recall what that spec is. But in a non performance application with no obvious heat damage, I agree with the video... resize and new bolts and will be great.
You set your gauge with a mic. I would use blocks if I wanted to measure a 5 tenth tolerance. Also I did not think a hone would fix an out of round condition. Drill, bore, ream, hone was how I was taught. I would think you would have to bore the hole (straight and round) then hone. Just my thoughts.
I love the videos you guys put on the next time I need some Machining done I'll ship it to you the question I have here after you machine those connecting rods what do you do about the Tang tab do you have to increase that since you cut down the connecting rod bore or is that an issue .
I've got a blown engine. Two spun bearings on a 4-cylinder from a MINI Cooper. I'm comfortable assembling the engine, and have the measurement tools and equipment to do so, but I need someone to do the machining. I've found a guy to grind the crank, but not looked into work on the block. Is machining the block properly and/or repairing the rods (if I don't replace them) something any local engine machine shop can do? If not, I'm looking at paying a lot more to buy a built engine. I see the care put into work like done in this video and I'm just not sure how to make sure I would get anything of that quality done locally.
I had the con rods on my 1925 Franklin reconditioned and babbitted. The shop did not confirm the big end was square with the little end... and turned out they were not square so upon installation the pistons were cocked in the bores and the rods not useable. I did not see or hear mention of you confirming the rods were not bent or previously incorrectly machined to avoid the same issues I had with my machinist. Did you just not show that step or do you not do a full check on rod squareness?
I would never angle cut the rods. That leaves stress in the torqued rods that can relax over time, and heat leaving you with a out of round rod. I’ve seen it many times.
I noticed you cleaned up the sides of the rods on the crankshaft end with a belt sander, but didnt really comment on it. Can I use the belt sander to remove .002-.003 to correct side clearance? I have one that is a bit tight. Thanks
I'm pushing 80 yrs old, past my prime for working on anything anymore. but it's reassuring to know that there are still people/craftsmen out there that still do take their work seriously and do it right kudos!
AGREED!
God bless you sir
I told you in the last one about my shop back in the 60's and 70's.. I didn't have any machine tools and always took them to a shop down the road.. Now I wish I would have gotten at least a few of them.. But then if I did that I would have probably switched careers and construction took me all over the world.. DAMN SWEET.. you are hooking me big time.. on to the next one!
Your craft is truly a labor of love. I am completely in awe of everything you guys do. These are great videos. Thanks for sharing
It can be... To some it's just a chunk of metal... But I don't like thinking of it that way
Im a machist and of all the machine work iv seen on rods, this young man knows what he is doing !
I got to "play" in an automotive machine shop for a while when I was in my early to mid 20s. (1980 ish). Resizing rods was one of my favorite tasks. Very satisfying!! Nice work.
Really really nice video...
It warms up an old Machinist's Heart to see all this nice oldschool machining....no cnc...just skills...the right way to do it...
Thanks for taking the time to make the video and share it.
I use a compass to check for magnetism after magnafluxing. It’s a good way to know you’ve demagnetized the parts good 👍🏼
Never cared for angle cutting rods, felt like it puts a bending load on the bolts, but it is great to see a step by step explanation of the whole rod resizing process. Definite fan of deburring the parting line. Used the same Sunnen equipment for years.
I still have my old sunnen honing machine that was in my Gramps Shop.Dont use it much anymoore but it still works and after i sold my shop i kept the old hone and a few other machine shop tools just to have something that reminds me of my grandparents.I enjoy watching your vids,keep up the good work young man.
This is great. Love the step by step series. Please keep doing this.
Whenever I reconditioned conrods, especially ones that had spun, I would get them sized to -.0005 inch of the low side and loosen the nuts/bolts, then retorque.
That way it would relieve any stress in the bore and make for a more cylindrical bore.
Try it, you'll see what I mean.
Btw: I believe ARP recommends torquing the fasteners 3 times before use.
Keep up the great videos!
I am very impressed with your skill, cleanliness and commitment to doing it right.
I'm glad to see that you're planning to balance the connecting rods after removing different amounts of material. Good stuff !
As a machinist I was taught h but we used to hone them hot at zero and they would cool down almost at the correct size you want to have two to three tents
I really love your work thanks for letting us join you man
I've always enjoyed your shorts so watching the crankshaft work nice to see the craftsman at his trade and your dad's a pretty cool character for teaching you that stuff and thank God you want to learn it nothing can make a father happier than for his son to join him in his trade and life. Watching you demagnetize the rod reminded me of deguassing a television tube. I've done a few of those back in the day. Thanks so much guys.
Always great to see a craftsman master his respective craft! Great work!!!
Thanks for showing how much goes into rebuilding an old motor that had problems This is the kind of work that I could not do as you guys have patience and precision machines to
do the work correctly. Thanks once again for your videos !!!
I just discovered you guys, and its so cool that you are literally 45 mins from where I live. I am always looking for a quality machine shop!!
This is quickly becoming one of my favorite channels
Brings back memories of when I made rods and cranks at Oliver Racing.
The amount of machines you guys have is astounding
Great work!! Thank you for sharing this! I know how much time and effort goes in to making videos and you obviously have better things to do! So again, thank you for sharing this with us!! Keep up the good work! 👏🏼👊🏼👍🏼
Another great and educational video. Thanks for taking the time to share ur knowledge with us. To bad ur not in Oklahoma cause I'd love to get a motor and come hang out in the shop and help build it and learn the right way of doing things. Great job man looking forward to the next one!👍🤙🇺🇲
I worked in a machine shop when I was a teenager, resizing rods was my first job. We taper ground the rods and there is no parting line after you hone them
NOW I understand why rebuilding an engine is so expensive. At least THESE guys deserve the money. Exceptional experts.
Great format great content. I like that you don't dumb it down and use machinist language. That may not be a performance build, but with the attention to detail that things going to run like sewing machine. Quickly becoming my favorite channel.
Great videos! Thanks for passing on the knowledge
Wow did this bring back memories, this is where I started out
Young man was taught well
In some Automotive applications if The Parting line is excessive you can angle cut the rods and caps this will give you better bearing Crush but the X Factor is always top priority
You probably just gave yourself super powers going through that magnetic field. You should try doing super stuff.
Part 2 Great!! I love your attention to Detail.
Great video Nicolaus and team! Love your short ones too (how I found your channel), really enjoy them, thanks for the effort 👍- Taz.
Thank you so much! That means a lot to us! 😊
As usual an awesome, well explained and demoed video........Mike
Amazing videos , thanks for letting us behind the curtain, I can see that there are so so many places for things to get messed up , The steps involved need to be so precise , and it’s amazing that people do this ……..they say that real machine shops are gone to the waste side , and that no one does the details like the used too ……well I see you guys here and I’m glad your carrying the torch to the next generation
How ever I do have a question , as a long time reader of all the regular magazines , they would say so often , bring this down to your local machine shop and have them do a procedure , and they said it as if you guys where like 7-11’s , ( I.e Ready and available , and affordable) Looking at the service you provide , what should one expect to pay for these procedures ( ball park ) ( Those old magazine writers still think it’s 1960 ) Just curious , From the standpoint if your going to do it do it correct .. keep up the great work and the videos , great ,educational and Informative
Great video as always. Im enjoying the professional rebuild and seeing everything that goes into a true rebuild. Thanks for the content Bro.
Thank you! I know people get more excited for race car engines, but that’s not what every build is!
@@JAMSIONLINE I actually enjoy the normal stuff more. It feels more relatable.
Very good videos and dialog. Thx!
Grinding the connecting rods I take even passes back and forth at the same time. Chopping them up is only going to be inconsistent.. 😊
You have been very well taught !well done Dad !
Enjoy your videos. Great detail in a shirt period of time. Subscribed through your short videos.
Love the detail
I live about 20 minutes from where the belt sander was made in Kalamazoo, Michigan!!
Your really good at your job bro I love your attention to detail
I really enjoyed this video mate, very informative and professional. I’ll keep watching your videos here from Australia 🇦🇺 👍🏻
Great work & great vid, young fella! Two big thumbs up! Thanks!
This is artistry
Not bad, very well detailed explained, love machine shop precise work.
Good stuff. Excellent info. Looking forward to the next videos.
Love you videos gotta get the old man involved more in them
Arp rod bolts! Stock rod bolts are only good once and can't handle the Poncho torque,also run full groove main bearings helps better positive oiling .. ..Yes it works! Handles 5500-6000 and still going strong 14yrs later!
Very cool 😎 thank you 👍🏼
I dropped off my crankshaft and a rod set to have the rods done , I had no idea that it was that involved!!!!!😀😀😀😀🍺🍺🍺🍺🏁🏁
Great video, and good job.
I must have watched you use this machine at least five times now, before I realized the grinding wheel was oriented vertically, grinding the bottom of the piece held by a vice in your hand. Somehow I had it in my brain that your hand was on the piece, and I kept wondering how you were pulling out a flat piece. I’m getting a lot out of these older videos, I guess I need all the help I can get!
I wish UA-cam existed 20 years ago. I would go to engine rebuilders and ask them about re-sizing rods and they looked at me weird and would tell me if I was worried about it, just buy a new rod.
Ask 10 people the same engine rebuilding advice, and I would get 11 different answers.
Great content, thanks 😊👍
Looking forward to the rod ballance video
Great video. Keep up the good work!
Nice to see you're a member of the GFC crew too. 😊
Conceptually I never understood how a rod was able to be resized. I knew it could be done, but I didn't know the process. This video cleared that up. This channel should be binge watched by real car guys
It shortens the rod a little bit. I never use them in high performance engines. Every little tiny thing makes a difference.
Really interesting to watch 👌🏻👌🏻
When doing Rods.... cooling is important yes..... but so is "stress relief" by cracking the caps off and re-Torquing the Rods again prior to final sizing.... that 'final' sizing itself determined by zero'ing a Dial Bore Gauge to the Crank Journal then Torquing up a Bearing in one of the cracked/dis-assembled 'roughed' Rods and going in with the Dial Bore gauge on the bearing to visually SEE where you are at for clearance.
TO WIT: the learning curve here should be twofold
1.) the Rods are 'stressed' from Rough sizing.... and even if you cool them down ? they will still SHRINK 2-3 tenths on the AG300 the first time they are cracked/dis-assembled.... so best to do it before FINAL sizing
2.) This 'stress relief' cracking/dis-assembly prior to FINAL sizing is an opportune time to Torque up a Bearing.... Zero a Dial Bore Gauge off the Crank dimension.... and go in and SEE where you are at for clearance ?... so that when FINAL Sizing you can 'adjust' that sizing and resultant bearing 'clearance' to desired ?
Special Note: the above is WHY when doing Performance/Blueprint work... you should ALWAYS be Grinding your Cranks to the Lowside/small side of the tolerance to allow "room" for yourself to adjust Vertical Bearing Clearance as per the above described procedure and stay within Rod Big End tolerance(good bearing crush)
Same thing when doing Line Honing of Mains.... STOP .0005" before entering the tolerance range.... cool and crack the Caps... install one main bearing/Check bearing clearance with another small Dial Bore gauge zero'd off the Crank....Re-Torque the Caps and proceed into tolerance range to achieve desired bearing clearance from your check.
Example: If you stop at .0005" before tolerance range, Torque up a Main Bearing and 'see' a clearance of .0015" ? then you know that when Final Honing the mains you can safely go another .001" Honing (enter the tolerance range from the -.0005" to "0" then to .0005") and you will have .0025" Bearing Clearance ?
Good job!!!!!!
Fyi. The center to center of the bores gets closer together when you grind off the splits. Be better to make them all the same. That way you can deck the block a bit and have all holes with the same tdc heights.
Gosh I'd love to work in a shop like this
Most people don’t appreciate just how much labour and money goes into making their daily lives possible.
Our shop used to use the side of the crankshaft grinding machine(if the pin and rod surfaces were on the same plane) to 'true up' the straightness of the rod. Worth it? Don't know but we did it anyways if it worked.
When I rebuilt the 396 from his '65 Impala SS I inherited, I used a new set of Manley rods and just got it over with. Those early rods were questionable at best, and by the time I reconditioned them I'd have been into the old ones more.
I have built many 7000+RPM BBC ovel track winning engines with stock shot peaned rods.That didn't make little pieces out of big pieces. One question how much money did you make on Manleys vs Recon and new for bolts.
Awesome channel!
Nice job
Absolutely fascinating video. I have subbed
only thing i did not see you do. but you probably did.. was use a drill bit to cut a relief for the radius under the head of the ARP bolts. so when torquing the bolts the radius does not try to split the rods..
I would love to work in that shop 😊
You do amazing work, in case that needs to be said
mad video mate
Imports to mention you absolutely have to get a rod align honed when changing to arp bolts on con rods.
Good job.
Cheers...
Nice job! I'd be curious (if you don't mind sharing) the total time it takes to rebuild those connecting rods from start to finish. With the shop labor rates so high in the USA these days, in some cases, people cheap out and buy inferior Chinese copies for less cost than to have a machine shop rebuild the OEM originals.
Depends how quick you’re workin, but much more than an hour for a set & you’re doing something wrong.
@@JAMSIONLINE Thanks for the response with the answer. You do beautiful work. Folks need to understand how much better the reconditioned OEM rods are vs. the new cheap/junk aftermarket parts are. It's always worth paying a competent machine shop more to recondition original OE parts.
@@warbirdwf i mostly agree but each situation depends on the application and customer needs/use.
Great video, but under an instance of having a cracked made connecting rod. Can you still grind the rod and machine the like this ?
You do not grind the mating faces of cracked-type rods.
You simply hone the large end of the rod for an oversize outside diameter rod bearing.
I'm wondering if the bores could be slightly shorter by like 5 thou.
I bet that wouldn't affect compression anyway.
I work on diesel and rod length does affect cold start and idle maybe the cleanup guy checks that
This is the first time I have seen a honing machine that moves the rods for you. You answered a lot of questions regarding connecting rod resizing! Our honing machine is like yours but you have to move the part by hand.
I like the angled cut trick!
Is the rod egg shaped because of the bearing removing material or did the steel actually bend slightly?
Depending on where you live, labor rates to resize rods cost more than just buying new one and the new ones can handle more HP.
esp, since Pontiac connecting rods are Armasteel. Only the Super Duty rods are forged. If this was a performance machine, off-the-shelf aftermarket Big Block Chevy rods would be ideal.
I liked it. Was curious what you guys thought or know about removing the parting line on the side beams? I know cast rods aren't the best, but do you think polishing them would benefit them? Thanks.
Good video. Just a comment, if the rod was blue from heat before shot peen, the heat treat could have changed. You could Rockwell test the big end and see a difference. Possibly.
Good observation. Neither rod or crank were blue from heat.
That's cool they replied to your comment. Also does it have to be blue from heat to change the shape/strength both elastic and plastic of the metal? I imagine it's material dependant. Like aluminum would suffer more from less heat as opposed to steel or other metals.
@@bobmotherfuckinsmith3089 I believe it is heavily dependent upon material type, mainly its carbon content. Old school heat treat was often done by color change, but with good knowledge of the material. Most Pontiac rods are cast armasteel which is a gm spec material, can't recall what that spec is. But in a non performance application with no obvious heat damage, I agree with the video... resize and new bolts and will be great.
You set your gauge with a mic. I would use blocks if I wanted to measure a 5 tenth tolerance. Also I did not think a hone would fix an out of round condition. Drill, bore, ream, hone was how I was taught. I would think you would have to bore the hole (straight and round) then hone. Just my thoughts.
At 11:00 you should be checking for any taper also in case your shoes or stones are tapered a bit.
Would love a tour of the shop if you haven’t done it yet!
Yo bro, love the video.
I love the videos you guys put on the next time I need some Machining done I'll ship it to you the question I have here after you machine those connecting rods what do you do about the Tang tab do you have to increase that since you cut down the connecting rod bore or is that an issue .
Does resizing rods shorten the rod length.
At first, I thought you going to resize a giant connecting rod!?
Lol…. Sorry :(
This is so interesting to learn about. Thank you.
Full watching he my friends,I'd like to watch this vedio
I've got a blown engine. Two spun bearings on a 4-cylinder from a MINI Cooper. I'm comfortable assembling the engine, and have the measurement tools and equipment to do so, but I need someone to do the machining. I've found a guy to grind the crank, but not looked into work on the block. Is machining the block properly and/or repairing the rods (if I don't replace them) something any local engine machine shop can do? If not, I'm looking at paying a lot more to buy a built engine. I see the care put into work like done in this video and I'm just not sure how to make sure I would get anything of that quality done locally.
I had the con rods on my 1925 Franklin reconditioned and babbitted. The shop did not confirm the big end was square with the little end... and turned out they were not square so upon installation the pistons were cocked in the bores and the rods not useable. I did not see or hear mention of you confirming the rods were not bent or previously incorrectly machined to avoid the same issues I had with my machinist. Did you just not show that step or do you not do a full check on rod squareness?
Have you used one of these myself in my dad's machine shop
I would never angle cut the rods. That leaves stress in the torqued rods that can relax over time, and heat leaving you with a out of round rod. I’ve seen it many times.
I'm a bit surprised that you don't seem to check for parallelism between the big ends and little ends, especially on the rod with the spun bearing.
So how do you know you are keeping the center to center distance pin to big end dimension correct?
I noticed you cleaned up the sides of the rods on the crankshaft end with a belt sander, but didnt really comment on it. Can I use the belt sander to remove .002-.003 to correct side clearance? I have one that is a bit tight. Thanks
I always use a flat file to clean the sides of my connecting rods.