Very helpful! Good to know the replacement parts aren’t that much but the labor is massive. More than I can handle DIY. May finally be time for a new vehicle. But she’s still in good shape overall.
Hi, Thanks for the video! Did you have to drain the coolant before doing this? There seems to be the water bypass hose that runs over the knock sensors. Is it possible to just avoid unplugging that?
I always drain the coolant to be extra safe, so I dont get coolant where it's not supposed to . Thanks for watching besure to like and subscribe for more tips and tricks and check out facebook and give it a like for more help in the future
Your video helped me immensely, however, I need a little help. I took my sensors out last week and figured I'd order a new harness as well. So the harness came in yesterday and as I'm putting this back together, in my cup where I have the brass bolts that connect the fuel injectors to the manifold, I have 5 10mm bolts. Well...the injector harness only takes 4! Before I muscle the plenum back on, am I missing something? I have a repair manual image of this to boot and I can't for the life of me see where this other 10mm (I'm assuming brass) bolt goes! I may see it as I continue but just want to make sure I didn't miss something below.
Bah, sorry - I found it. For some reason, I must have started to take the throttle body apart and took only 1 bolt out. Well, it's the same size as the other bolts and had them all in the same cup. fun fun fun.
Thanks for watchin really appreciate it that happens sometime s even when you label everything it can be a pain. Thanks for watching besure to like and subscribe for more tips and tricks and check out facebook for more help in the future
Just did this repair, the van has been sitting for over a decade. Changed starter, alternator and battery. Car started fine but got the knock sensor bank 2 code. Replaced both. During the breakdown after removing bottom manifold coolant poured out (pops said he drained it prior, was not the case) after replacing knock sensors and reassembling everything. Went to start and got a thud noise. Sounded like a seized motor. Turned crank pulley and by golly it was not seized. The motor cranked but went back to a thud and no crank. Positive nothing fell into manifold cause all hardware was accounted. What are you thoughts? Cold that moment of coolant seepage maybe have gotten into the manifold and cause this? What would you suggest my next move would be?
I have a 99 that has been really sluggish on the freeway. It's really struggles to maintain 75mph, particularly going up hill. The van will downshift, sometimes two gears to maintain the cruze control set to 75mph. It has a po325 code showing. Could a faulty knock sensor possibly cause the loss of power at highway speeds?
if it just just cranks and cranks the knock sensors should still allow it to run, . Thanks for watching besure to like and subscribe for more tips and tricks and check out facebook and give it a like for more help in the future
I'm about to do this, what are all the parts I need to buy? lower and upper intake manifold gasket, coolant, and the sensors themselves. Anything else?
@@fixergood While I was doing it I saw/ thought of other things to do. The coils are also known to go out and the coolant hose under the manifold. I can't think of anything else. I did neither of these lol may be next time
Oh and you should also warn people when removing the lower intake manifold. there are two washers that are easy to miss and made so they will perfectly land in the intake and they will destroy your engine. I have this guy at my work that was able to fish it out from inside the cylinder o.O CrAzY!
@@rosemeade1 That's a fair price in my opinion if you plan to keep the vehicle more than 5 years. Plus, you don't want just any mechanic taking apart your engine. Preferably it's one who has worked on the particular engine before.
@@fixergood Does "6 to 800 nit" mean $600 to $800? Wow! I believe you can buy the part for only $20. Maybe I should reconsider getting this P0333 code fixed in my 2007 Toyota Sienna. That’s a lot of jack. Do you have an opinion on what would happen to my van if I didn't replace the knock sensor? Would it be harmful?
Yeah 600 to 800 is pretty steep, if it's not changed it could effect your fuel millage and performance, because its job is to reduce a knock or ping from detonation, so you could run to lean and burn a valve.
@@fixergood One last question (I think)...my van's P0333 code comes on for two or three days and then disappears for a few days or more. I am not clearing the code. Does this happen to you and does it mean it's not really a problem after all when the check engine light doesn't stay on consistently? Thanks.
I just pressure washed my 2001 Sienna engine bay now I have the P0330 KNOK sensor wire bank 2 error. Just I PW it just before I took it for SMOG check. The tech said you need to drive it above 50MPH for 30 minutes Because I cleared the too lean bank 1 code after I replaced the O2 sensor on bank 1. So, we drive away from the smog place get on the freeway and Boom, Engine light comes on. P0330 code. Good Lord they want $1100 to replace the KNOK sensors. Slightly less just to clean the KNOCK sensor connectors I got wet and dirty. The Sienna is only worth $2500 so Now I'll have to sell it for junk or mechanics special. SH%&t The moral of the story is don't pressure wash an old engine.
Ya presuure washing can deffantly make things harder than they need to, it sounds like water got in the conector you could dry it out by driving it more then clear the code hope this helps thanks for watchin and be sure to subscribe
@@fixergood Yep, A neighborhood mechanic suggested a Endoscope to look down under the manifold at the KNOCK sensors to see if the connections were wet or corroded. I have a cheap Amazon $20 blue tooth Endoscope. The problem is how do you get there with a spray nozzle to squirt some NO-Corrode or Electronic part cleaner..... Thinking out loud.... I have some very thin shrink tubing I could attach to the Endoscope camera head with a larger shrink tube and or Super Glue. Then I could get close enough to give it a squirt from either side of the connector. I'll give it a try tomorrow. I'll let you know....
Very helpful! Good to know the replacement parts aren’t that much but the labor is massive. More than I can handle DIY. May finally be time for a new vehicle. But she’s still in good shape overall.
Thanks for watchin really apreciate it
Thank you for a pretty straightforward video 👍
Thanks for watchin
Thank you for the instruction
Another great video Fixer
Thanks for watchin I really apreciate it.
Hi,
Thanks for the video! Did you have to drain the coolant before doing this? There seems to be the water bypass hose that runs over the knock sensors. Is it possible to just avoid unplugging that?
I always drain the coolant to be extra safe, so I dont get coolant where it's not supposed to . Thanks for watching besure to like and subscribe for more tips and tricks and check out facebook and give it a like for more help in the future
Great job good video
thanks for watchin
Your video helped me immensely, however, I need a little help. I took my sensors out last week and figured I'd order a new harness as well. So the harness came in yesterday and as I'm putting this back together, in my cup where I have the brass bolts that connect the fuel injectors to the manifold, I have 5 10mm bolts. Well...the injector harness only takes 4! Before I muscle the plenum back on, am I missing something? I have a repair manual image of this to boot and I can't for the life of me see where this other 10mm (I'm assuming brass) bolt goes! I may see it as I continue but just want to make sure I didn't miss something below.
Bah, sorry - I found it. For some reason, I must have started to take the throttle body apart and took only 1 bolt out. Well, it's the same size as the other bolts and had them all in the same cup. fun fun fun.
Thanks for watchin really appreciate it that happens sometime s even when you label everything it can be a pain. Thanks for watching besure to like and subscribe for more tips and tricks and check out facebook for more help in the future
Grasias por ese valioso video para aserlo y como aserlo
gracias por verla. Realmente lo aprecio, asegúrate de que me gusta y suscríbete para obtener más consejos.
Thanks
Your welcome thanks for watchin really apreciate it.
Thanks for the video! Do you have an idea for how long it would take to replace the knock sensor? As well as the cost if done by a mechanic?
I did this job on my Toyota sienna 2005 and a took like 4 hours
Would this cause the van to not turn on again
Just did this repair, the van has been sitting for over a decade. Changed starter, alternator and battery. Car started fine but got the knock sensor bank 2 code. Replaced both. During the breakdown after removing bottom manifold coolant poured out (pops said he drained it prior, was not the case) after replacing knock sensors and reassembling everything. Went to start and got a thud noise. Sounded like a seized motor. Turned crank pulley and by golly it was not seized. The motor cranked but went back to a thud and no crank. Positive nothing fell into manifold cause all hardware was accounted.
What are you thoughts? Cold that moment of coolant seepage maybe have gotten into the manifold and cause this? What would you suggest my next move would be?
Did you ever get this fixed?
I have a 99 that has been really sluggish on the freeway. It's really struggles to maintain 75mph, particularly going up hill. The van will downshift, sometimes two gears to maintain the cruze control set to 75mph. It has a po325 code showing. Could a faulty knock sensor possibly cause the loss of power at highway speeds?
knocks sensors are ther to stop spark detonations, if it sees one it will retard the the timing. thanks for watchin.
Is the rear sensor sensor 1
Just crank crank crank and do have codes for both knok sensors
if it just just cranks and cranks the knock sensors should still allow it to run,
. Thanks for watching besure to like and subscribe for more tips and tricks and check out facebook and give it a like for more help in the future
I'm about to do this, what are all the parts I need to buy? lower and upper intake manifold gasket, coolant, and the sensors themselves. Anything else?
That sounds about right, bow maybe a good time to also do the hidden spark plugs in the back. Thanks for watchin really apreciate it
@@fixergood While I was doing it I saw/ thought of other things to do. The coils are also known to go out and the coolant hose under the manifold. I can't think of anything else. I did neither of these lol may be next time
Oh and you should also warn people when removing the lower intake manifold. there are two washers that are easy to miss and made so they will perfectly land in the intake and they will destroy your engine. I have this guy at my work that was able to fish it out from inside the cylinder o.O CrAzY!
How much would a mechanic charge to do this job?
Probally arpund 800 to a 1000, thanks for watchin really apreciate it.
Dealer: $2500 to replace both sensors and both wiring harnesses as well as the intake gasket. V6 and V8 engine labor costs are outrageous.
@@rkgsd I had it done by a mechanic I trust and he also gave it a tune, replaced spark plugs and it had a leaking gaskets. $1800
@@rosemeade1 That's a fair price in my opinion if you plan to keep the vehicle more than 5 years. Plus, you don't want just any mechanic taking apart your engine. Preferably it's one who has worked on the particular engine before.
What do you think the labor charge might be for that?
It s a pretty big job just labor probally 6 to 800 nit I'm guessing thanks for watchin
@@fixergood Does "6 to 800 nit" mean $600 to $800? Wow! I believe you can buy the part for only $20. Maybe I should reconsider getting this P0333 code fixed in my 2007 Toyota Sienna. That’s a lot of jack. Do you have an opinion on what would happen to my van if I didn't replace the knock sensor? Would it be harmful?
Yeah 600 to 800 is pretty steep, if it's not changed it could effect your fuel millage and performance, because its job is to reduce a knock or ping from detonation, so you could run to lean and burn a valve.
@@fixergood Thanks. Good to know.
@@fixergood One last question (I think)...my van's P0333 code comes on for two or three days and then disappears for a few days or more. I am not clearing the code. Does this happen to you and does it mean it's not really a problem after all when the check engine light doesn't stay on consistently? Thanks.
Is this for 03 or 04?
I just pressure washed my 2001 Sienna engine bay now I have the P0330 KNOK sensor wire bank 2 error. Just I PW it just before I took it for SMOG check. The tech said you need to drive it above 50MPH for 30 minutes Because I cleared the too lean bank 1 code after I replaced the O2 sensor on bank 1. So, we drive away from the smog place get on the freeway and Boom, Engine light comes on. P0330 code. Good Lord they want $1100 to replace the KNOK sensors. Slightly less just to clean the KNOCK sensor connectors I got wet and dirty. The Sienna is only worth $2500 so Now I'll have to sell it for junk or mechanics special. SH%&t The moral of the story is don't pressure wash an old engine.
Ya presuure washing can deffantly make things harder than they need to, it sounds like water got in the conector you could dry it out by driving it more then clear the code hope this helps thanks for watchin and be sure to subscribe
@@fixergood Yep, A neighborhood mechanic suggested a Endoscope to look down under the manifold at the KNOCK sensors to see if the connections were wet or corroded. I have a cheap Amazon $20 blue tooth Endoscope. The problem is how do you get there with a spray nozzle to squirt some NO-Corrode or Electronic part cleaner..... Thinking out loud.... I have some very thin shrink tubing I could attach to the Endoscope camera head with a larger shrink tube and or Super Glue. Then I could get close enough to give it a squirt from either side of the connector. I'll give it a try tomorrow. I'll let you know....
Why your title say 2003