IS YOUR FORD MODEL A RUNNING ROUGH?

[@MrBmetz99]

A shot or two of penetrating oil like Kroil or PB Blaster, and letting it sit overnight, and you run WAY less risk of damaging the distributor housing. If something is stuck, use force or impact as a last resort.

[@Lolo-mx4sc]

Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Especially liked the dial indicator showing the reason.

[@randallstrickland8204]

Thank you

[@philipblick8887]

You did a first class overhaul congratulations from Aotearoa New Zealand 👍🇳🇿

[@ModelARickLasCruces]

Nice job! But I wish you'd have mentioned that when rebuilding the distributor that you should get a new, drilled upper shaft and drilled cam screw so that the upper bushings can be lubricated when you lube the lower bushing. Not an expensive investment but it can extend the life of those bushings.

[@randallstrickland8204]

Good point Rick, I always use a drilled shaft and the one in video that was wore was also drilled.

[@edtolman3119]

@@randallstrickland8204 I noticed it was; just wish you'd have mentioned it for others to hear :)

[@edtolman3119]

I've recommended your video to the MAFCA webmaster for posting on its website.

[@randallstrickland8204]

@@edtolman3119 thanks Ed

[@elosogonzalez8739]

That's a very clean engine.😊

[@dougedwards2880]

Another great video, keep em coming.

[@craigroberts3982]

excellent work

[@randallstrickland8204]

Thanks Craig

[@randallstrickland8204]

Thank you

[@plank407]

I would love to be your apprentice. Wish I lived closer.

[@randallstrickland8204]

Thanks for the compliment

[@jt1454]

Good video Randall!! What tool did you use on your Dake press to press out the old bushings? I usually cut into the old bushings with a hacksaw blade and peel them out and try not to crack the housing.

[@randallstrickland8204]

I have a set of bushing driverd I use Thanks

[@williambutler8624]

Great video, you are a expert mechanic on the MODEL A FORD, I have a 1931 TUDOR, I have been trying to get it running, I have installed rebuild Zenith Carburetor, new points, condenser, plugs, set timing, I have fire from coil, points are firing, fresh gas, the car just won't start, it's turns over fine, it just like trying to start with switch off, I've owned this car for 19 years, it's only been a few months since it was running, any advice would be appreciated, also what are thoughts on Electronic Ignition on a MODEL A, enjoy all your videos, THANKS.

[@randallstrickland8204]

I’m not big on the electronic ignition, I still use points, if you pull coil wire out of dist. And spin it over do you have a blue spark?

[@randallstrickland8204]

I would also check the connection at the amp meter if they’re loose it will cause problems with starting

[@randallstrickland8204]

I would also disconnect gas line at carb and see if you have a full stream of gas flowing

[@randallstrickland8204]

And to eliminate a problem with carb squirt a little gas in the opening of carb and then try to start

[@williambutler8624]

@@randallstrickland8204 I will be working on it again this week, everything you mentioned I've done except for ammeter, good spark at coil and points, steady gas flow, I'll check the ammeter and let you know what I find, THANKS.

[@randallstrickland8204]

Thanks Phillip

[@mkmauro2792]

What type of oil/weight did you use in the steering box?

[@allhartfidelity]

polish the cam?

[@justtim9767]

Love it.

[@randallstrickland8204]

85-140 gear oil

[@postmann1000]

where did you buy that bushing tool at 12:48

[@randallstrickland8204]

Any industrial suppliers should have its called an adjustable teamer

[@luiscolon8691]

😊

[@ericluedtke3507]

Nylon wedges are much safer and better.