Great Choice Jeremy! I have been using the Oregon Gator G5 blades for years. IMO they are the best for mulching and bagging. About time someone did a vid on better blades for the Diy'er! Good Stuff! Peace and God's Love! Chad Upstate NY
Blade style dictates cut type. The blades that come with this time master are playing out in simple bagging and discharge oriented, with minimal mulching capabilities. These Oregon blades are mulching oriented and perform well.
So I saw this video a year ago, and I ran these last season. The blade is MUCH heavier than stock. It also doesn't hold an edge very well. I switched to Ballard blades. Much better. I'd like for you to review the gold Ballard blades if possible and compare to these. Thanks brother
@@MT89259 yes, you can do one of three things. 1. Use a dab of high temp grease to help. 2. Wash or clean the pieces with soap and water to remove debris so that they fit perfectly. 3. Use a dremel with a sander attachment to sand off a bit of the middle and make it easier to fit. I used the dremel. U could get by rolling a piece of 100 grit sandpaper and sanding it down. The dremel is just cuz I like to use it lol
@@MT89259 I did not experience this with the ballard golds on my timemaster. The Golds are also noticeably heavier than stock and required me an extra refuel.
Only if you don’t keep the deck clean. If it gets all the wet clippings and builds a layer it doesn’t perform. Once you clean It or keep it clean, I’ve not had any issues.
Compatible with Models: Exmark: ECKA30, Serial No. 313,000,000 and higher with 30" deck, Toro: TimeMaster 20199 and 20200, 2014 and TurfMaster 22200, 2013, with 30" deck Length: 15-3/8", Center Hole: 5/8", Outer Hole: 5/16", Center to Center: 1-1/4", Width: 3", Thickness: 0.134", Offset: 5/16", AirLift: 1" No adaptor needed for these models
Would the Gator G5's be too heavy for the 223CC? I got some several years ago and used them a couple of times, but the belt fell off. Was told they may be too heavy and never installed them again.
Wet grass is what does this the worst. I don’t notice it either way. If you neglect your deck or have wet mows, it will collect. Try to have dry grass and use your clean out port or scrape it like I did. What you saw on there was from June my last scraping. We have been in a drought, so not a lot of wet mows at all lol.
Yes sometimes in the spring when the grass is really lush this will happen. I usually run my low-lift atomic blades during that period and then switch to the gators when the lawn begins to dry out a bit.
How much buildup do you have on your deck? Only time I see this, is when there is SOO much old grass on my deck or I’m cutting too much for my mower. Let me know
You put it on my personal pinned post. I deleted my personal post as I didn’t need my pinned post any more and hence your posts went with it. This thread is not on my post, this will not be deleted. It’s never smart to post on people pinned posts. If they decide to change their own pinned posts, yours will go. And honestly, your asking for too much attention posing on a pinned and not your own thread (and this was done on purpose). There wasn’t anything wrong with your post, you just posted it on MY PINED POST, right? Sorry you feel slided, feel free to use this convo as it’s yours and good to stay.
Here are all your posts 👇🏻 Dan Stephens I also have used gator blades on my timemaster. I Don't like the gator blades on thick grass. The blades are significantly heavier than the timemaster stock blades. Weigh them on a scale. I did so. The engine struggles to power through the thick grass and I even have the newer timemaster with the larger engine. The Greener Lawn it's not about feelings. Just what I experience when I use them. I really wanted the gators to work for me as I bought them when I got my timemaster 3 years ago. I just weighed mine and I have a 9oz difference between stock blades and the heavier gators. I have more wear on my stock blades than you do. It's more noticeable when mulching wet grass. I agree that the stock blades do clog the deck on a timemaster. Glad they work for you. Dan Stephens The Greener Lawn I dug out my original receipt for the blades. I bought the Gator G5 (30" toro) 594-601 blades from my local Toro dealer in August 2018. I can show you the receipt if you want. I put those sharpened blades back on today for another whirl. It just has trouble powering thru heavier grass. It might be because it throws it back up and recuts it so much it doesn't discharge it down (not the side or bag) fast enough. Just my two cents.
@@stevencheek4088 (aerodynamic as stated) and it also helps with bagging / side discharging of the grass, doesn’t keep it suspended as well as the flatter gator blades that keep mulching and suspending the grass blades till they fall through.
Just put the same blades on my Toro timemaster and I feel like they bog my mower down more... I had to raise my deck and then lower it mowing the whole yard twice. You're thoughts?
How clean is your bottoms of your deck? Do you have a lot of debris below stuck on your deck? That is when I see a bog down, only time, as it doesn’t have enough air space to create suction.
@@TheGreenerLawn I'm not sure which one I have and I wasnst mulching but it wasnst crazy tall out anything. Did you sharpen your blades before putting them on? I did not
@@edp9811 no but it could help. Ir should either say 190 Or 223 on the top of the engine on the sticker. Maybe send me a video to JeremyofTheGreenerLawn@gmail.com when you do it again so I can see?
Does anyone know why my blade engagement belt keeps breaking? I’ve changed it 4 times. I don’t cut any lawn lower than C. I don’t mulch or bag. I cut every lawn with the flap open
if you've had the machine a while, take a look at the blade brake arm (the tensioner pulley is attached to it) and see if there is a lot of up and down play in it. The design of that assembly is poor and from pivoting and vibration over time the arm wears a groove into the bronze bushing it rides on, Because the tensioner pulley sits above the pivot point of the arm, the arm is always being pulled at an angle and it ends up wearing an angled groove in the bushing. This means that the idler pulley is now at an angle and also may be out of alignment with the drive pulley and the blade pulley. You can replace the parts or upgrade them to use the assembly from the Toro Turfmaster instead. Might take a bit of modification but it works much better. Also watch out for belts that have a bulge in them where the 2 ends are spliced together. This bulge makes the brake arm vibrate like crazy and causes extra wear on the bushing. Those are 2 things that happened to my machine. Good luck!
Have you ever had an issue with fit? I order these and put them on my timemaster and 1 blade just barely clips one of the bolt heads on the front/underside of the deck. I’m considering just grinding off a tiny bit of the corner of the blade.
Nope. They should have around 1/4” of clearance. I know an odd question, is the underside deck clean? This move sir some people prompted them to clean their decks.
@@TheGreenerLawn It’s actually brand new. I read how many people love these blades for it so I got them when I got the mower. It’s just on one side and I tried both blades in that position and they both do the same thing.
I have a rear yard lawn that slopes away from my home and it is uneven. Is there a way to set up grits patterns to ID the low spots and estimate amt of soil to order. Thx Redds
I know people set stakes for level. I bet there would be a way to measure it out, but I have never done it. I just level 1/4” at a time or spot level higher with an over seeding ( but nothing for best measurements for leveling).
Yup, those work. Never used them to know how good they are tho. But they look similar enough. (Angles can play a big part here and so can build material, I don’t know either on them.) I left a link to them in the discription for those who are looking.
If your in Utah I go to honest engine, in Layton. They I believe are like somewhere between 7-11 bucks a blade… I’ll tell you when I take these in for sure.
They don’t have a razor sharp blade no, but they aren’t designed from the manufacturer to have this, when we sharpen them after we by default give it a sharp edge… I have never pre-sharpened them b4 use
594-601 on the blades? Hard thing about Amazon links they change the listings some times… please confirm if it’s the 594-601, if so, they will fit the 2017 and newer timemaster. I’m sorry your hanging a poor time, please feel free to reach out to me at JeremyofTheGreenerLawn@gmail.com and we can figure this out!
@@feurn4719 wish you had them still, so we could do diagnoses what you were seeing. Once again, I’m sorry, but these are the correct gator blades as not as they are 594-601 .
Only bagging? Stock, if you ever deceive you would like to mulch this one is a good 3-in-one, it if your just Bagging stock is where it’s at. No real need for a change. Thank you! I appreciate it!
Cause it will randomly start? The pull cord will engage? Ugh explain my friend how an engine would engage and start when I have to pull a pull cord and hold a blade engage lever….. to engage a mower….. or a regular mower I have to hold a “gas lever”…. Lol I seriously hope your joking
@@TheGreenerLawn I was always told to do so. I’ve never used a time master I’m sure it’s littered with safety. I pull my wire off because then I know even if all this BS safety fails I’m safe.
@@lawn2learn It says it plain as day in the manual (you are right), I looked it up, so I’m not arguing what it says… Safe from what? How would it pull start it self? Hold a pull handle? Even more so on a regular, no blade stop mower, as if your not holding the handle…. It doesn’t run. Lol this is one lawn safety statement that has always cracked me up… bro, think about it… How in the heck would it ever happen? Be honest here 🤣 It also says do not repair or alter the blades….. “The blade is sharp; contacting the blade can result in serious personal injury. Wear gloves when servicing the blade. Do not repair or alter the blade(s).” “Never file or create sharp notches in the edges or surfaces of a blade.” So With these statements, new blades every change…. DO NOT SHARPEN… 🤭 All joking aside, safety is important and it truly does say to do that but I really don’t understand this one…
Personally I take them to a pro Toro shop, they charge me $12 a blade, and I’m in and out in 5 min. I run two sets, I change blades the take the ones in that just got take off, the I swap it again and take the old ones to sharpen. I don’t mess with the angles, the weights or anything, they got the equipment and do it several runs a day lol.
Not a high lift blade, not good at mulching as those new Oregon blades. The ones that come on the timemaster are side discharge and bagging heavy blades, about a 6/10 for mulching.
Not looking for mulching blades for my Timemaster. I'm done doing that because I don't have or want to invest into equipment to dethatch my lawn. I've found that side discharge not only cuts better but also maintain. A nice green lawn using the Timemaster. This year is a bit different because we've been having on average 110 degree weather daily which is browning out yards even ones who have lawn irrigation. Having to conserve on water due to rise in energy costs. Gee thanks Resident Biden 😒..
What? Lol True mulch is 1/4” or less clippings (when dry will be less then 1/8”) will not cause thatch. If you are cutting your lawn and its larger then 1/4” on your clippings, it’s not mulching, your just cutting / leaving dead grass back into your lawn. Understanding the difference is key. This is where mowing more frequently (or fertilizing less) and not cutting more then 1/3 of your blades on a cut is key. Understanding grass does help with these types of misconceptions. Lol if your not looking for mulching blades… why watch a video titled BEST MULCHING BLADES, then argue wrongly about mulching? And what is a resident Biden? Recap…. You don’t want mulching blades… but watch a video called best mulching blades. You Incorrectly quote how true mulching works and give a misconception. Then use a president as a scape goat? Do I have this correct?
@@TheGreenerLawn that is dependent on the type of grass and soil. I don't know where you are located perhaps Florida maybe just guessing but it's not a clipping problem. Most lawns around my area cut between 2 1/2 to 3 inches but as I said if you have a different type of grass it takes longer to break down especially during extreme heat. You are better off where I am in East Texas side discharging.
@@UA-camISRANBYRETARDS only one grass type doesn’t break down well enough, and it’s a rare one (I’ll let peeps ask if they want to know 😘), soil has nothing to do with it honestly. Heat makes them break down quicker, as it’s the microbes in the soil, and they are energized by heat. I promise it’s the “mulch size”, if they aren’t breaking down. When you side discharge are you leaving the clippings? Not picking them up? Rather running them over multiple times? This will not chop your blades as fine as true mulching, and this could actually cause the issue your saying. Do you rake off your clippings afterward? Anyways, always fun to talk over points, good stuff!
@@TheGreenerLawn Actually yes soil types have a lot to do with breakdown especially in Texas which many areas like in East Texas are sand based lacking a certain ph and alkaline content to compost the clippings. I don't know what blowing a kiss at me is supposed to mean but whatever floats your boat. Many types of grass does not break down like bahia, Texas centipede, some types of Saint augustine and a list of others. I've seen Florida soil and it's more rich dirt based than Texas. Now if I were to go out mid west Texas I'd see more rich dirt based soil due to that land being farm land. I've been in lawncare for a long time and many people outside of Texas do not have experience with our soil and grass. While I have seen people who've moved from out of state spend thousands ripping up their yards, bringing in good topsoil and seeding it you wouldn't find your native Texans going to thar extreme because it is what it is. Certain types of rye grass will grow in Texas but when we have extreme heat like we have had this year the rye grass cannot handle it. Saint Augustine while a beautiful green grass cannot handle direct sunlight in the summer and will die quickly if you don't keep it watered. I've seen a lot of experts like you make these comments and end up in Texas later on complaining because their ideas or knowledge isn't working. But hey, I'm not going to knock your knowledge from where you live because anything you learned is for your states typical agricultural makeup..
@@UA-camISRANBYRETARDS sigh…. I’m trained from around the world, as I have companies, manufactures, distributors ,golf courses, universities that I’ve had trainings from and work with, around the world… lol any ways, microbes are able to be promoted in all soils, but are stripped due to current conditions or poor cultural practices and/or things applied by the person that stunt or kill these microbes ( synthetic fertilizers). I only agree with centipede and breaking down, it’s the one to keep an eye one. St aug is tougher then you give it. Texas…. My current paid coaching clients are 42 currently across Texas, and help countless others through on my Instagram account via dm daily. I bring techniques from around the world, not just one state … area or even region. I’m a touch different animal then what your use to. Do I know everything? No, (not even close and I’m always learning) but what your touching on, is a mix of good info (I see your def trying), vs misconceptions from poor info being passed around. Lol Everywhere presents it’s own issues. I’m in Utah so you know: second driest state in the union, and we have cool season grasses while our temps range from 95-108 during the summer. I have rye (mentioned above and KBG), and your seeing my results from watering 2 x a week, with .6” water (using hydretain). My rye doesn’t go dormant even over the last week we have averaged 102 a day with a spike of 106. Anyways, keep your quest for knowledge! I love it!
Ooooof I’m sorry if you mulch, you will really want these blades… 1000% …. I could of been quicker, but I couldn’t find where I hid them from my self 😅
@@lawnpanda soo true! I do change my blades 2x a year… I’m a little late as I normally like doing mine in middle of July and last thing fall. Lost those blades till today lol.
Great Choice Jeremy! I have been using the Oregon Gator G5 blades for years. IMO they are the best for mulching and bagging. About time someone did a vid on better blades for the Diy'er! Good Stuff! Peace and God's Love! Chad Upstate NY
The other thing to do is crank up the rpms on it it will cut better. I run it at 3800 rpm and its alot better.
Blade style dictates cut type. The blades that come with this time master are playing out in simple bagging and discharge oriented, with minimal mulching capabilities. These Oregon blades are mulching oriented and perform well.
I just ordered a pair. 👍🏾
You will not be disappointed, this is next level mulching blades right here!
So I saw this video a year ago, and I ran these last season. The blade is MUCH heavier than stock. It also doesn't hold an edge very well. I switched to Ballard blades. Much better. I'd like for you to review the gold Ballard blades if possible and compare to these. Thanks brother
I’ll check them out 👌🏻
I saw some videos showing the ballard blade holes not lining up correctly for the nobs to fit flush, did you experience that
@@MT89259 yes, you can do one of three things. 1. Use a dab of high temp grease to help. 2. Wash or clean the pieces with soap and water to remove debris so that they fit perfectly. 3. Use a dremel with a sander attachment to sand off a bit of the middle and make it easier to fit.
I used the dremel. U could get by rolling a piece of 100 grit sandpaper and sanding it down. The dremel is just cuz I like to use it lol
@@MT89259 I did not experience this with the ballard golds on my timemaster. The Golds are also noticeably heavier than stock and required me an extra refuel.
yeah usually aftermarket blades are a little bit heavier cause they're a little bit wider and then they're built a little bit more beefier
Thanks for another great review Jeremy. 👍
Thanks Jef!
Okay. I’m sold.
You will be impressed sir!
I want your old blades - they're mint
They are good for side discharge and bagging. They are trash for mulching, these new blades run circles around them. In Utah? I’ll give ‘em to ya!
Gonna treat Eddie “Big T” to a new blade this fall sir 😎 will send you the results. Great content once again Jeremy - keep hustling 💪
200% love this!!!
Looks like I’m getting some new blades!
Dennis, you will love them!
Did you notice that your time master was getting bogged down with clipping pretty easily after the change?
Only if you don’t keep the deck clean. If it gets all the wet clippings and builds a layer it doesn’t perform. Once you clean
It or keep it clean, I’ve not had any issues.
Is there an aftermarket wavy mulching blade available for the Toro Timemaster? I thought I saw that the Scag 30" uses that style.
Gator blades are the way to go! wonder if they make them for the Recycler mowers
This should be the one ur looking for: amzn.to/3lEZitA
@@TheGreenerLawn It appears so! Thanks Jeremy I'll have to look into trying one
Nice review pal
Thanks sir!
I need to look into what's best for a super recycler.
Depending on your model # this one is the one= amzn.to/3jAmtCN
@@TheGreenerLawn thanks dude !
Do you need an adapter for the blades to fit. I would like to order these blades
Compatible with Models: Exmark: ECKA30, Serial No. 313,000,000 and higher with 30" deck, Toro: TimeMaster 20199 and 20200, 2014 and TurfMaster 22200, 2013, with 30" deck
Length: 15-3/8", Center Hole: 5/8", Outer Hole: 5/16", Center to Center: 1-1/4", Width: 3", Thickness: 0.134", Offset: 5/16", AirLift: 1"
No adaptor needed for these models
Would the Gator G5's be too heavy for the 223CC? I got some several years ago and used them a couple of times, but the belt fell off. Was told they may be too heavy and never installed them again.
Those are these, and I’m on year 3 of running them with no issues and much cleaner cuts.
@@TheGreenerLawn thank you. I'll give them another try.
Does the gator blades pack the deck up with clippings any worse then the OEM blades?
Wet grass is what does this the worst. I don’t notice it either way. If you neglect your deck or have wet mows, it will collect. Try to have dry grass and use your clean out port or scrape it like I did. What you saw on there was from June my last scraping. We have been in a drought, so not a lot of wet mows at all lol.
Yes sometimes in the spring when the grass is really lush this will happen. I usually run my low-lift atomic blades during that period and then switch to the gators when the lawn begins to dry out a bit.
I just used these today and I noticed that when it got to a point the mower would just give out and the blades would stop spinning how do I fix
How much buildup do you have on your deck? Only time I see this, is when there is SOO much old grass on my deck or I’m cutting too much for my mower. Let me know
@@TheGreenerLawn do you have Instagram or something so I can send a pic?
@@mazzoszn8292 100% dm me @TheGreenerLawn
So my earlier comments (a clean and respectful post) that said I had a different experience with those blades than you gets... DELETED! Wow.
You put it on my personal pinned post. I deleted my personal post as I didn’t need my pinned post any more and hence your posts went with it. This thread is not on my post, this will not be deleted. It’s never smart to post on people pinned posts. If they decide to change their own pinned posts, yours will go. And honestly, your asking for too much attention posing on a pinned and not your own thread (and this was done on purpose).
There wasn’t anything wrong with your post, you just posted it on MY PINED POST, right?
Sorry you feel slided, feel free to use this convo as it’s yours and good to stay.
Here are all your posts 👇🏻
Dan Stephens
I also have used gator blades on my timemaster. I Don't like the gator blades on thick grass. The blades are significantly heavier than the timemaster stock blades. Weigh them on a scale. I did so. The engine struggles to power through the thick grass and I even have the newer timemaster with the larger engine.
The Greener Lawn it's not about feelings. Just what I experience when I use them. I really wanted the gators to work for me as I bought them when I got my timemaster 3 years ago. I just weighed mine and I have a 9oz difference between stock blades and the heavier gators. I have more wear on my stock blades than you do. It's more noticeable when mulching wet grass. I agree that the stock blades do clog the deck on a timemaster. Glad they work for you.
Dan Stephens
The Greener Lawn I dug out my original receipt for the blades. I bought the Gator G5 (30" toro) 594-601 blades from my local Toro dealer in August 2018. I can show you the receipt if you want. I put those sharpened blades back on today for another whirl. It just has trouble powering thru heavier grass. It might be because it throws it back up and recuts it so much it doesn't discharge it down (not the side or bag) fast enough. Just my two cents.
Thanks for the clairity, all the best.
Why isn't the TimeMaster blade cutting edge level to the ground?
Explain to me what your meaning. I think I get what your saying, but fill me in a bit.
@@TheGreenerLawn the sharpened leading edge of the blade is not parallel to the ground
@@stevencheek4088 (aerodynamic as stated) and it also helps with bagging / side discharging of the grass, doesn’t keep it suspended as well as the flatter gator blades that keep mulching and suspending the grass blades till they fall through.
Just put the same blades on my Toro timemaster and I feel like they bog my mower down more... I had to raise my deck and then lower it mowing the whole yard twice. You're thoughts?
How clean is your bottoms of your deck? Do you have a lot of debris below stuck on your deck? That is when I see a bog down, only time, as it doesn’t have enough air space to create suction.
@@TheGreenerLawn scraped clean when I swapped the blades
@@edp9811 which time master do you have (motor size)? How much grass we’re you trying to cut off in one mowing? Mulching right?
@@TheGreenerLawn I'm not sure which one I have and I wasnst mulching but it wasnst crazy tall out anything. Did you sharpen your blades before putting them on? I did not
@@edp9811 no but it could help. Ir should either say 190
Or
223 on the top of the engine on the sticker.
Maybe send me a video to
JeremyofTheGreenerLawn@gmail.com when you do it again so I can see?
Does anyone know why my blade engagement belt keeps breaking? I’ve changed it 4 times. I don’t cut any lawn lower than C. I don’t mulch or bag. I cut every lawn with the flap open
Slowly pull the engagement. Don’t jam it on really quick.
if you've had the machine a while, take a look at the blade brake arm (the tensioner pulley is attached to it) and see if there is a lot of up and down play in it. The design of that assembly is poor and from pivoting and vibration over time the arm wears a groove into the bronze bushing it rides on, Because the tensioner pulley sits above the pivot point of the arm, the arm is always being pulled at an angle and it ends up wearing an angled groove in the bushing. This means that the idler pulley is now at an angle and also may be out of alignment with the drive pulley and the blade pulley. You can replace the parts or upgrade them to use the assembly from the Toro Turfmaster instead. Might take a bit of modification but it works much better. Also watch out for belts that have a bulge in them where the 2 ends are spliced together. This bulge makes the brake arm vibrate like crazy and causes extra wear on the bushing. Those are 2 things that happened to my machine. Good luck!
What is the roller on the back of your lawnmower?
Good question! It’s a striping kit for the grass: ua-cam.com/video/jrX0ddZHUWI/v-deo.html
Create those sporting event lawn stripes in your own lawn.
Have you ever had an issue with fit? I order these and put them on my timemaster and 1 blade just barely clips one of the bolt heads on the front/underside of the deck. I’m considering just grinding off a tiny bit of the corner of the blade.
Nope. They should have around 1/4” of clearance. I know an odd question, is the underside deck clean? This move sir some people prompted them to clean their decks.
@@TheGreenerLawn It’s actually brand new. I read how many people love these blades for it so I got them when I got the mower. It’s just on one side and I tried both blades in that position and they both do the same thing.
@@michaelwagner7254 mind sending me pictures to JeremyofTheGreenerLawn@gmail.com ?
@@TheGreenerLawn Sure. I’ll take some and send them in the morning. Thanks!
Intro 😂😂😂allyn hane
Right?!?
I have a rear yard lawn that slopes away from my home and it is uneven. Is there a way to set up grits patterns to ID the low spots and estimate amt of soil to order. Thx Redds
I know people set stakes for level. I bet there would be a way to measure it out, but I have never done it. I just level 1/4” at a time or spot level higher with an over seeding ( but nothing for best measurements for leveling).
how about Rotary 14420
Yup, those work. Never used them to know how good they are tho. But they look similar enough. (Angles can play a big part here and so can build material, I don’t know either on them.) I left a link to them in the discription for those who are looking.
Where do you go to have your blades sharpened and how much do they charge?
If your in Utah I go to honest engine, in Layton. They I believe are like somewhere between 7-11 bucks a blade… I’ll tell you when I take these in for sure.
but if i wanted to bag with the oregon blade will it bag same or better as the factory blade?
Bag just fine, but if your bagging no need to switch from stock blade, it’s it’s design already
Does the Timemaster have the stow away system?
Yes, the handle folds up or completely over, with a simple push of the blue lever on the back.
Awesome, thanks! So no problem with tipping the mower backwards to clean the deck? Worried about oil or gas back flowing when it’s tipped.
@@edwardnuno1900 nope, notice the muffler is in the front. That’s where it normally causes issues if that ends up down.
I read that they don't come sharpen is this true?
They don’t have a razor sharp blade no, but they aren’t designed from the manufacturer to have this, when we sharpen them after we by default give it a sharp edge… I have never pre-sharpened them b4 use
Couldn’t get my bolts to come off or even budge. Sprayed wd40 waited. Still nothing. Any ideas?
Impact drill… only way I can get mine off as well
@@TheGreenerLawn darn I don’t have one
@@TheGreenerLawn well I don’t have an impact wrench I have an impact drill but it still didn’t come off
@@ThayWay3 breaker bar?
I bought these blades and their not the correct style ? Went to the link as well
594-601 on the blades? Hard thing about Amazon links they change the listings some times… please confirm if it’s the 594-601, if so, they will fit the 2017 and newer timemaster.
I’m sorry your hanging a poor time, please feel free to reach out to me at JeremyofTheGreenerLawn@gmail.com and we can figure this out!
@@TheGreenerLawn yeah it says 594-601 but doesn't fit I got a refund on Amazon and I guess I will try to order it a different way
@@feurn4719 wish you had them still, so we could do diagnoses what you were seeing. Once again, I’m sorry, but these are the correct gator blades as not as they are 594-601 .
Are those gators also good for bagging or mainly for mulching?
Perfectly fine to bag, but if you bag only you are fine to keep stock as well
Hey Jeremy! What’s the best blade for bagging? I’ve been having to bag because of fungus. Thanks
Great video as always 😉
Only bagging? Stock, if you ever deceive you would like to mulch this one is a good 3-in-one, it if your just Bagging stock is where it’s at. No real need for a change.
Thank you! I appreciate it!
Don’t forget to disconnect that spark plug folks!!!! Before you play with the blades.
Cause it will randomly start? The pull cord will engage? Ugh explain my friend how an engine would engage and start when I have to pull a pull cord and hold a blade engage lever….. to engage a mower….. or a regular mower I have to hold a “gas lever”…. Lol I seriously hope your joking
@@TheGreenerLawn
I was always told to do so. I’ve never used a time master I’m sure it’s littered with safety.
I pull my wire off because then I know even if all this BS safety fails I’m safe.
@@lawn2learn It says it plain as day in the manual (you are right), I looked it up, so I’m not arguing what it says…
Safe from what? How would it pull start it self? Hold a pull handle? Even more so on a regular, no blade stop mower, as if your not holding the handle…. It doesn’t run. Lol this is one lawn safety statement that has always cracked me up… bro, think about it…
How in the heck would it ever happen? Be honest here 🤣
It also says do not repair or alter the blades….. “The blade is sharp; contacting the blade can result in serious personal injury. Wear gloves when servicing the blade. Do not repair or alter the blade(s).” “Never file or create sharp notches in the edges or surfaces of a blade.” So With these statements, new blades every change…. DO NOT SHARPEN… 🤭
All joking aside, safety is important and it truly does say to do that but I really don’t understand this one…
How did you sharpen them
Personally I take them to a pro Toro shop, they charge me $12 a blade, and I’m in and out in 5 min. I run two sets, I change blades the take the ones in that just got take off, the I swap it again and take the old ones to sharpen. I don’t mess with the angles, the weights or anything, they got the equipment and do it several runs a day lol.
That blade still looks good, why not just sharpen it?
Not a high lift blade, not good at mulching as those new Oregon blades. The ones that come on the timemaster are side discharge and bagging heavy blades, about a 6/10 for mulching.
How ya been sir? Been a long time!
Not looking for mulching blades for my Timemaster. I'm done doing that because I don't have or want to invest into equipment to dethatch my lawn. I've found that side discharge not only cuts better but also maintain. A nice green lawn using the Timemaster. This year is a bit different because we've been having on average 110 degree weather daily which is browning out yards even ones who have lawn irrigation. Having to conserve on water due to rise in energy costs. Gee thanks Resident Biden 😒..
What? Lol
True mulch is 1/4” or less clippings (when dry will be less then 1/8”) will not cause thatch. If you are cutting your lawn and its larger then 1/4” on your clippings, it’s not mulching, your just cutting / leaving dead grass back into your lawn. Understanding the difference is key. This is where mowing more frequently (or fertilizing less) and not cutting more then 1/3 of your blades on a cut is key. Understanding grass does help with these types of misconceptions.
Lol if your not looking for mulching blades… why watch a video titled BEST MULCHING BLADES, then argue wrongly about mulching?
And what is a resident Biden?
Recap….
You don’t want mulching blades… but watch a video called best mulching blades.
You Incorrectly quote how true mulching works and give a misconception.
Then use a president as a scape goat?
Do I have this correct?
@@TheGreenerLawn that is dependent on the type of grass and soil. I don't know where you are located perhaps Florida maybe just guessing but it's not a clipping problem. Most lawns around my area cut between 2 1/2 to 3 inches but as I said if you have a different type of grass it takes longer to break down especially during extreme heat. You are better off where I am in East Texas side discharging.
@@UA-camISRANBYRETARDS only one grass type doesn’t break down well enough, and it’s a rare one (I’ll let peeps ask if they want to know 😘), soil has nothing to do with it honestly. Heat makes them break down quicker, as it’s the microbes in the soil, and they are energized by heat. I promise it’s the “mulch size”, if they aren’t breaking down.
When you side discharge are you leaving the clippings? Not picking them up? Rather running them over multiple times? This will not chop your blades as fine as true mulching, and this could actually cause the issue your saying. Do you rake off your clippings afterward?
Anyways, always fun to talk over points, good stuff!
@@TheGreenerLawn Actually yes soil types have a lot to do with breakdown especially in Texas which many areas like in East Texas are sand based lacking a certain ph and alkaline content to compost the clippings. I don't know what blowing a kiss at me is supposed to mean but whatever floats your boat. Many types of grass does not break down like bahia, Texas centipede, some types of Saint augustine and a list of others. I've seen Florida soil and it's more rich dirt based than Texas. Now if I were to go out mid west Texas I'd see more rich dirt based soil due to that land being farm land. I've been in lawncare for a long time and many people outside of Texas do not have experience with our soil and grass. While I have seen people who've moved from out of state spend thousands ripping up their yards, bringing in good topsoil and seeding it you wouldn't find your native Texans going to thar extreme because it is what it is. Certain types of rye grass will grow in Texas but when we have extreme heat like we have had this year the rye grass cannot handle it. Saint Augustine while a beautiful green grass cannot handle direct sunlight in the summer and will die quickly if you don't keep it watered. I've seen a lot of experts like you make these comments and end up in Texas later on complaining because their ideas or knowledge isn't working. But hey, I'm not going to knock your knowledge from where you live because anything you learned is for your states typical agricultural makeup..
@@UA-camISRANBYRETARDS sigh…. I’m trained from around the world, as I have companies, manufactures, distributors ,golf courses, universities that I’ve had trainings from and work with, around the world… lol any ways, microbes are able to be promoted in all soils, but are stripped due to current conditions or poor cultural practices and/or things applied by the person that stunt or kill these microbes ( synthetic fertilizers). I only agree with centipede and breaking down, it’s the one to keep an eye one. St aug is tougher then you give it.
Texas…. My current paid coaching clients are 42 currently across Texas, and help countless others through on my Instagram account via dm daily.
I bring techniques from around the world, not just one state … area or even region. I’m a touch different animal then what your use to.
Do I know everything? No, (not even close and I’m always learning) but what your touching on, is a mix of good info (I see your def trying), vs misconceptions from poor info being passed around. Lol
Everywhere presents it’s own issues. I’m in Utah so you know: second driest state in the union, and we have cool season grasses while our temps range from 95-108 during the summer. I have rye (mentioned above and KBG), and your seeing my results from watering 2 x a week, with .6” water (using hydretain). My rye doesn’t go dormant even over the last week we have averaged 102 a day with a spike of 106.
Anyways, keep your quest for knowledge! I love it!
Your timing is horrible. I just bought a timemaster, and I don’t really need new blades , but, I just ordered stock replacements so I have them!
Ooooof I’m sorry if you mulch, you will really want these blades… 1000% …. I could of been quicker, but I couldn’t find where I hid them from my self 😅
Oh well. I ordered these with your link. Can never have too many sharp blades!
@@lawnpanda soo true! I do change my blades 2x a year… I’m a little late as I normally like doing mine in middle of July and last thing fall. Lost those blades till today lol.