Synchronous Belt and Pulley Replacement Toro TimeMaster
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- In this video I replaced the synchronous belt and tensioner pulley on my Toro TimeMaster. This was my first time replacing the belt and pulley on this mower and it was fairly easy; well within the range of the average DIYer.
The synchronous belt part # is 120-3335.
The pulley part # is 131-4529.
I bought aftermarket parts for this job in order to cut down on the expense. I'll try to keep you posted on how well they performed.
I just ran into this situation yesterday and it was the first cut with brand new blades... ouch! Very well explained. Thank you for the part numbers. Great video. Agreed, one of the best , clearest, brief and to the point DIY videos I've seen. Bravo
some of the youtube videos do not talk about the holes in both blade pulleys to help keep the blades in the T, glad you show it with the screwdriver on the pulley
Most important step of this whole process to protect life, limb and the TimeMaster is to ensure the blades underneath are arranged at near-perfect perpendicular positions from one another before setting the belt teeth in place on the pulleys. Otherwise, this could be very dangerous to operate after reassembly. In the video, the creator obviously has the blades in the right position, because we see him holding one of them in place so he knows they are perpendicular; but look for another video on the Tube that shows a belt replacement, and you can see how that uploader ensures belt opposition visually while adding tension. This important step has been assumed in this video I think, but it's very, very important and should be double checked post assembly before operating as this mower uses a time belt that cannot slip or change positions for safe operation.
InstaBlaster.
You did a very good job with this video. I've watched a number of do it yourself videos on various subjects. Some are hard to watch.Yours is tops for clarity, and
understanding. Thanks
Outstanding video and very helpful. For safety sake it might be a good idea to remind people to remove the wire from the spark plug.
I like how you stop for a split second to show each piece of hardware. Nicely explained dooty
Great video! There is an upgraded replacement kit for the idler pulleys from Toro. It is part number 126-7890 and replaces the original pulleys with the commercial metal pulleys. It is well worth the price and highly advisable as a preventative replacement.
I would go for that upgraded version for sure! It looks way more durable!
Great video, My new belt will be here in a couple of days and I will definitely be rewaching this. Thank you
Sure is nice to see a UA-camr who actually knows how to wrench. Great video thanks!! Love mulching leaves, nice lot.
Great video. Watched many video on this procedure. I had to remove the items described in this video to get the belt on. On my version of this mower, there are two small holes to allow for proper synchronization of the belts (you also need to manually spin, with the spark plug wire disconnected) to insure proper alignment of the blades.
You need a small high strength screw driver or Allen wench to hold the blades.
Just zip tie the clutch handle and that will allow room to slip the belt over. You just have to remove the small pulley guard and belt
Thanks - Great video and really clear. If it helps, I put a tiny bit of oil on the belt and manage to slide it over the tight gap - this avoided removing the brake pully. Also, you need to remove the static pulley on the left to fit the cable and then add it back on after.
Thank you, your video is just so helpful 🙌
Great video. I'm glad you showed the blade direction or orientation at the end.
Same thing just happened to me,only my belt didn't break, I inspected the belt thoroughly for any rips. I watched this vid (he even listed the part# in the description). I went out, got the pulley and installed it with help of this vid. $20 and 30min of labor. Would have cost me over $100 if i took it to a repair shop. Thanks
I just picked up one of these used. Great video! Thanks for sharing. You also have a new sub. 🦅
Took me 30min plus this video to realize I had the belt on wrong
Thanks! You just saved me $$$. The belt was still $50+
Again... thanks for this video. You took it slow and simple.
Main thing that helps the life of belt is rechecking it after 3 hours of run time and the upgrade pulley kit #126-7890 is worth the price because it’s commercial parts 😊😊
Just ordered mine should be here soon the weight more and are more beefed up.
Good video, helped me a lot. Especially the timing belt tension and blade timing.
I agree with Gregory. The most important finishing step is left out of this video. The blades have to be off set so they don't smash into each other!
I would have spent the extra $70 and put the upgraded tension pulleys on there also. The upgraded ones are far less likely to fail in the future.
Who’s sell them ? Is it the
exmark part# 126-7890?
I agree with you, it’s the best way 😊
GREAT INSTRUCTIONS...very well done, huge help...thanks
Nice work on the video. Very helpful.
Could put in a power drill motor sound effect when pointing out the four cober screws before opening it up for a bit of fun, but dang. pretty concise (guessing you may have been military trainer). I like some of the other comments which makes these vids absolutely essential before starting. Nice job.
I really hate lazy engineering. The previous design allowed you to slip belt past screw post because it tapered at top. The way it is now it's really aggravating to change. I'd really like to express my frustrations with the engineer as I scream trying to fix this. Thanks for the video showing how to go about this.
Zip tie your clutch lever.
@@LemonySnicket-EUC That wasn't the issue; the drive belt brake was easy to move out of way by hand. The timing wheel drive had to be removed as the belt would not squeeze past the screw tower. On model 21200 the screw tower doesn't taper at the top. Had to put one claw of wrench in timing wheel hole with the other claw set against the screw tower to stop it turning while unscrewing the center bolt. Took trial and error to figure how to do it.
@@officemanager8624 see what K Gio said.
@@officemanager8624 Did this last night. Could not budge the nut on the timing wheel. Used a few drops of oil and was able to push the belt through the gap
If you engage the blade by pulling the Deadman at the handlebar I think you can get the cog belt on without removing the brake pully.
Very good, just what I needed
Use commercial pulleys from exmark 30", part number 126-7890.
Nice video. Can you clarify the positions of both blades when locking the new belt into place. Are they at right angles to each other?
This video was very helpful. Thank you
Great vid your have earned a subscriber
thanks guys for your help in my timemaster
You forgot to mention the blade timing so they don't collide with one another.
Good point but he shows it near the end before he starts mowing
Thank you, an insightful video. Really helped.
So my timemaster slows, sputters, and even dies if I dont feather pulling the BBC bar. So I replaced the tensioner pulley because thats normally goes bad, but it still does the same. The blades seem to spin pretty freely, so I am starting to think maybe and idler pulley might be bad. The motor runs great until the drive is activated so it has to be friction related. Ill try to add a video of it, but just wondered if you have encountered similar on your timemaster?
What did you figure out ?
Thanks for the great video!
Thanks pal...good video👍
Ooooo, that’s some good leaf mulching! Now I’m torn, should I bag mulched leaves for the compost or leave it on the lawn...
Same thing happened to me. Who knew one patch of dirt could cause so much damage 😡. 2 bent pulleys, popped belt, blades out of time, etc
@Matthew Hayslett lol good point
Hope its ok, I’m subbing in, ‘ive got a timemaster using as trim mower on 12 acre acreage. I’m cutting about 6 acres including 2 ditches. My tractor and mower deck do most of the cutting, but the time master gets about 3 hours a week. I like your style and you are obviously quite facile with tools. Peace
Thanks for the video! I never had to do soo much maintenance on a mower.... seems this thing is always down :(
i'm stuck here 1:03 . I try to loosen the top bolt in the pulley, and it just keeps turning. I don't know how to grab the nut on the bottom
I could have done a better job replacing the belt, but there isn't any service manual on this procedure and I had to wing it that day.
First, you don't need to remove the drive pulley to get the belt on. It's a tight squeeze but the belt will slide into place after you remove the belt guard and idler pulley.
Second, make sure your belt is locked in: the belt ridges fit snugly inside the ridges of the pulley. I should have done a better job stressing that.
Here's a link to a video that will explain these elements a lot better than I did:
ua-cam.com/video/229iV0mIV58/v-deo.html
Great video, thanks..
Well done!
Wow good job
I had to align the blades 90° off each other too...
Great Video !! Helped me out a bunch. On the tension pulley bracket with the two screws. Once the Spring washer is set to .025mm do those screws get tightened, snugged or keep loose ? Spring washer seems like a band-aid for something they couldn't sort out properly. Anyone have a good explanation for it ?
What about the pulley bracket did I miss you tightening it
Nice video by the way
Never never never touch the blades unless the spark plug cable is disconnected 😉
great video
You didn't explain how you timed the belt?
I did this same deal on a new version of this mower. after running over a dog tough the back tensioner let go and we bought another and did this video. Today while mowing the left cog belt drive blew out. What did we do wrong? Was it on the way out or did we or have we got another issue?
Dam, just happened to me today, May 20, Zach same thing. One belt and one pulley, toast. Gonna watch this and attempt to do this mice elf. Stay tuned. Ha.
Same exact thing happened to my TimeMaster. The shop I took it to is waiting for the belt and new pulley to come in. Quick question - what are those little ball shaped parts at the 1:12 mark in the video? I found 2 of those loose on the deck along with what appeared to be a small metal ring.
Jack those pulleys he is installing are junk use the commercial ones part number 126-7890. They are more expensive but worth it.
I just replaced the belt and the two pulleys and an hour into cutting the grass, the belt disintegrated. The only thing I can think of is the flat spring was too tight. I did leave enough gap in there that I could stick a piece of paper in it. Any ideas?
I just took the little pulley in the front off to give room for the timing belt.
Thanks man
What would be going on with mine I just bought a stand on mower and after 3 hours of use I notice a hard jungle or like something loose mowing around but I can feel it more on the handle on the left but I notice the pulley shakes alot in the middle
One glaring error or omission, you state NOT to tighten the pulley bracket bolts down so tight that you can’t adjust the spring tension. On mine, unless I tighten that rear bolt down all the way there is no way to do it after I adjust the spring as their is not enough of the bolt head showing to get my wrench on it to tighten. You then show us adjusting the spring tension to .010 but then never mention how to tighten those two bracket bolts down, unless I am missing something.
You'll be replacing bearings soon since no torque spec was complied with
I will give you $20 for it. You pay shipping
They actually call it a standoff bushing with a shoulder
exact same thing happened to me yesterday sucks
Those pulleys are trash. Replace them ASAP with commercial grade pulleys that are used on the Exmark.
It’s a bushing not a spacer
You said the clearance for the tension adjustment is .010" Paper is .003-.004" You're probably ok, the new belt with stretch a little. but go buy some feeler gauges.
Ben Rumson Agreed. The Toro manual says we can use a sheet of paper for the gap, but like you said it's best using a feeler gauge.
for me 0.010" makes the blade belt to tight...it's overloading the idler bearing...
Looks like a lot of bull shit I didn’t think I would have to do….great