Very good information! Save yourself a pain by pumping your brake pedal before you put the tires back on. This way you can see the calipers in action and take out any guess work!
I have an E350 cutaway van 12,000 GVW. The leaf spring actually hits the top caliper holding Bolt. On the passenger side. Pain in the ass. By the way, your videos are great. Thank you for your time.
The engineers at Ford couldn't figure it out how to adopt an emergency brake on disc rotors they had to do a whole second set of drum brakes. Why Ford why.
One way I've removed the seal inside the wheel. And pull with a seal puller. It keeps the hub from moving and makes a nice sturdy working spot to drive the new seal in. And /or races if you're replacing bearings
As a commercial truck and heavy equipment tech myself. The advice given in this video is bad and you should know better. For starters the hub seal needs to be replaced every time the hub is removed and you should make that clear. Also putting the hub back on the correct socket must be used and the nut needs to be torqued to spec and backed off accordingly. That’s what sets the bearing preload, when you don’t do that the bearing either will fail prematurely or the wheel end comes off and possibly kills someone.
I had a customer follow this stupid video so I was going to make a comment, but I'm glad I found someone else that already had, this video is why I make alot if money!
Yes because you have to remove the hub to get to the rotor bolts. Make sure you use loctite and torque the rotor bolts as well as the axle nut and the axle bolts.
Nice- ok it wouldn't fit on your lift, ha too heavy. Brian the axle you removed does it have the seal built into the inside flange on the axle or is it a replaceable gasket ?
+STEVE ROB The goal is to make it better and better. And hopefully help more and more people. Wish I had some of the technical skills you have. Your videos with great!
How to Automotive Haha I have by buddy RICKAFIX channel to help me he's the brains of the operation up here. LOL I really like the Sony movie maker platinum 12 , it was a learning curve and still is but now that I have figured out more it makes it so much easier to edit than the windows movie maker. Today's vid would have been a lot easier to film with a tripod. I'll be watching for your two handed vids. LOL
Yep, that's what sucks about the duallys. I have this exact truck and have to do mine here shortly. My next pickup will be a single rear wheel for sure. I don't tow heavy enough anymore to need a dually.
It's actually better to open the bleeder screw when compressing the caliper to press out the dirty fluid out instead of pressing the dirty fluid back through the seals and master cylinder
The main reason is it’s added protection since you’re taking it all apart to change out the rotors there’s a good chance the damage could happen. Also the seals get a hard overtime and if they’re not leaking now they will eventually leak.
Very good information! Save yourself a pain by pumping your brake pedal before you put the tires back on. This way you can see the calipers in action and take out any guess work!
Excellent Video! One of the best, the steps and procedures were well thought out.
Randy Helgath thank you. And thank you for watching!
I have an E350 cutaway van 12,000 GVW. The leaf spring actually hits the top caliper holding Bolt. On the passenger side. Pain in the ass. By the way, your videos are great. Thank you for your time.
michael chauvette did you take the bracket bolt off and then remove the caliber?
I did. Thanks for the reply
michael chauvette thank you for watching!
@@HowtoAutomotive for some reason your video does not play
Nelson H. I just checked and it’s playing for me.
The engineers at Ford couldn't figure it out how to adopt an emergency brake on disc rotors they had to do a whole second set of drum brakes. Why Ford why.
Seen it often, not all Ford
Very good video.
Is it advisable to replace or at least repack the wheel bearings when you have them out?
Well done video. Thorough yet concise.
One way I've removed the seal inside the wheel. And pull with a seal puller. It keeps the hub from moving and makes a nice sturdy working spot to drive the new seal in. And /or races if you're replacing bearings
As a commercial truck and heavy equipment tech myself. The advice given in this video is bad and you should know better. For starters the hub seal needs to be replaced every time the hub is removed and you should make that clear. Also putting the hub back on the correct socket must be used and the nut needs to be torqued to spec and backed off accordingly. That’s what sets the bearing preload, when you don’t do that the bearing either will fail prematurely or the wheel end comes off and possibly kills someone.
I had a customer follow this stupid video so I was going to make a comment, but I'm glad I found someone else that already had, this video is why I make alot if money!
How to, What would be your estimate on labor time for both sides, assuming you dont run into any problems?
Anyone know a part number or have a link for that seal? Ordered one and it's the wrong one
Do you need to take the seal out to replace the rotor?
Yes because you have to remove the hub to get to the rotor bolts. Make sure you use loctite and torque the rotor bolts as well as the axle nut and the axle bolts.
Nice- ok it wouldn't fit on your lift, ha too heavy. Brian the axle you removed does it have the seal built into the inside flange on the axle or is it a replaceable gasket ?
The seal was on the inside of the hub and I has a rubber Pringles at the end of the axle.
Definitely too big for the rack. Lol
+How to Automotive Your home page is looking great. Keep at buddy..
+STEVE ROB The goal is to make it better and better. And hopefully help more and more people. Wish I had some of the technical skills you have. Your videos with great!
How to Automotive Haha I have by buddy RICKAFIX channel to help me he's the brains of the operation up here. LOL I really like the Sony movie maker platinum 12 , it was a learning curve and still is but now that I have figured out more it makes it so much easier to edit than the windows movie maker. Today's vid would have been a lot easier to film with a tripod. I'll be watching for your two handed vids. LOL
Nut to remove axel nut is 2 2/3 Part number w 83008 bought at oreilys
Great video. I just got the tires and wheels off. Long way to go before its done.
Thank you. I always get stuck on that lock ring before the bearing and have to resort to UA-cam videos to figure out what’s next
all this just to change out some damn rotors and pads? GOT DAMN lol
Because dually that's why lol
Yep, that's what sucks about the duallys. I have this exact truck and have to do mine here shortly. My next pickup will be a single rear wheel for sure. I don't tow heavy enough anymore to need a dually.
Disc to hub torque specs?
You have torque specs on all these bolts and I think the axle nut is torqued to 60 lbs and backed off 3 clicks or about 1/4 inch
whats the torque specs on the bolts, axlenut, and lugnuts this is the most important thing
just a couple ugga duggas
@@elibrenny4572 never that. Especially when you're doing all this work, would hate to redo it.
Here you go man . .
Front Disc Brake-
Torque Specifications:
caliper bolts (F250, F350) (76Nm) 56 ft lb.
caliper flow bolt w/crush washer (48Nm) 35 ft lb.
caliper anchor plate bolts (F250, F350) (225Nm) 166 ft lb.
Wheel hub extender nuts (176Nm) / 130 ft lb.
Brake disc shield screws (11Nm) / 8 ft lb.
Rear Disc Brake
Torque Specifications:
Brake caliper bolts -
F-250, F-350 single rear wheel (35Nm) 26 ft lb.
caliper flow bolt (35Nm) 26 ft lb.
caliper support bolts (137Nm) 101 ft lb.
Disc-to-hub bolts (121Nm) 89 ft lb.
caliper anchor plate bolts -
F-250, F-350 single rear wheel (275Nm) -203 ft. lbs
What is the name of the socket you used to take the special bearing nut off? Also are there multiple sizes what size did you need?
Use a punch
It's actually better to open the bleeder screw when compressing the caliper to press out the dirty fluid out instead of pressing the dirty fluid back through the seals and master cylinder
100%. They way this guy did it is just lazy. That's the dirtiest fluid in the system and you just pushed it back in.
Thanks for a great video.
Excellent video. Thank you for sharing
Thank you for watching!
Why does the seal have to be removed and replaced?
The main reason is it’s added protection since you’re taking it all apart to change out the rotors there’s a good chance the damage could happen. Also the seals get a hard overtime and if they’re not leaking now they will eventually leak.
Very Helpful video
Great video
Greatvideo thank you
Great video thanks Trump 2020 2nd amendment strong because its our right