Extra tip: when the tire pops on the rim, make sure it's seated evenly all around . You can do so by checking a marker-line on the sidewalls, that should be evenly distanced from the rim. Also, give the wheel a spin, you'll notice if there is a wobble or a wiggle in the tire. If you apply sealant through the valve, you can do this after first inflation (and then deflating again). At that point, your tire is allready properly seated so no spills of sealant. After putting in the sealant, re-inflate the tire, set the valve at 12 o'clock and release some air to clean the valve-core from sealant to prevent clogging up. About the shaking of the sealant: this depends on the brand. The Caffèlatex (Effetto Mariposa) for example should not be shaken, because it has a foaming agent in it (this will foam up whilst riding thus better distribution of the sealant if you should puncture - other sealants only get to the puncture when it's at 6 o'clock at every rotation of the wheel).
I love this video, and would feel confident changing over to tubeless now… HOWEVER … I often bike on my own and would love to see a video on field repairs for a tubeless before i feel confident to go on a long ride!
at the end of the day it all boils down to road condition, I run inner tubes and find them perfect as roads by me are good the only punchers that I have had this year were all nails/screws so regardless I was gonna be stumped. Only concern I have is that tubless is great for sharp nicks and then not anything sidewall or big related so till there is a viable working option I'll stick to inner tubes.
I just take a tube with me to put on if the sealant doesn’t work. However from over 1 year of riding I have never had a single puncture on my gp 5000 tl……so I would recommend that you try it 👌
Well, the sealant should take care of the small holes and fix them while you ride. When you're riding and you feel like it is not going to be fixed by the sealant, you can use plugs. I love the dynaplug for this. Put in the plug and pump your tire. If the puncture is even bigger, I put in an inner tube, even though it will get messy at home when making the tire tubeless again,
Try latex tubes instead of butyl, if you're on disc brakes. It's better than all the fluffing about with tubeless. I find tubeless tyres are at best 2/3 the life of a tubed tyre. When you flat on tubeless more often than not it's a major roadside drama. I think tubeless for roadies still has a long way to go
At 6:20 you mention the tire logo over the stem. I agree that it looks cool but I always grew up placing the pressure band by the stem. It's good to hear I'm not the only person that puts any thought into tire to wheel alignment!
Thanks alot Alex! I finally decided to redo my tubeless setup. I saw how thick the sealant is that muc off sells in your last video. I had some other stuff wich was more like milk with some small grain.. i washed it all off and put in the new muc off sealant. I put some sealant on the edges of the rim aswell (with my finger) and the tyres seated on the first try with a normal pump.. awesome... plus, i fixed the annoying rattle in my zipp 303s.. they left some kind of tape in the rim.. probalby a byproduct from the manufacturing process.. i managed it to poke it trough the vent hole... greetings!
I always take the upper width for the rim tape like for a 25 inner rim I take a 28mm tape. It covers more area so less leak excepted in the long run especially with asymmetrical rims where holes are closer to one side. I only wrap once.
My two cents on that is I have had problems with the tape curling on the edge when I fit the tire and air escapes under it. I'm not a professional so it might be related to poor workmanship :|
Will be doing this tomorrow on the gravel bike. I got frustrated with tubeless after having some awful bad luck with punctures and ran tubes for a few years. Back to tubeless now though huzzah
I struggled getting my conti gp5000 beads to set. Another video showed using soap and water mixed, spraying it along the beads of the tire (both sides) then pumping. This trick solved my beads not sealing. Good luck
Ive redone both of my tyres today.. first try with a normal pump.. just put some sealant all around the tyre with your finger. That sticky stuff from muc off really works...
I would like to know how much video footage they have before they got the perfect tubeless tyre setup :) In real life I almost never seen a tubeless installation going seamlessly on the first try :D
Ive redone both of my tyres today.. first try with a normal pump.. just put some sealant all around the tyre with your finger. That sticky stuff from muc off really works...
Tubeless and road tyres Pirelli P Zero 26's for a heavier rider having to run 90psi +, thoughts Alex. Also, noticed the Muc Off sealnt was very thick compared to others
Nicely done Alex and GCN. Anyone (GCN included) have any pro's/con's of using the Vittoria Airliners vs. liquid sealant in their tubeless setup? I've seen the GCN video on the airliners and they seem like the optimal solution (especially if you can ride home on them after a flat), but I'm hoping someone in the viewing audience has some personal experience they could pass on.
I feel like some clarification is needed in terms of tape width and expectations regarding how the tape fits in the well of the rim. Given that the well is going to take up some of the width of the tape, are there rules of thumb about whether to go wider (and how much wider, if so) on the tape width than the internal rim width? Should the tape stick all the way down in the well, or is it expected in some, cases that the tape just can't stretch that far? If it needs to go all the way down in the well, how do you deal with the inevitable wrinkles in the tape that would happen from the differing effective wheel circumference (and therefore tape length) that will happen? I've worked with Stan's rim tape and in my experience it's just not flexible enough to really stretch down into a well... It tears first, and as we all know or suspect, torn rim tape is not conducive to a reliable tubeless setup. So how are these issues addressed?
What helps with difficult rims (with a deep well) is to put a layer of electricians tape first: that is very flexible and will act as a cushion. Then the stiffer rim tape.
Guys thanks for a great video again! I do have a question though about riding tubeless generally. I rode two different pairs of tyres and tried two different sealants (Panaracer Gravelking TLC with Stans sealant, and Challenge Strada Bianca with Challenge sealant). I ride road but through town I get some small stones too and other rubbish. As a result, both combinations of tyres+sealant led after the first month to tens and tens of tiny holes where the sealant was visible after a ride. And then eventually I had flats too (narely 1mm holes) which the sealants could not fill. My question is, what am I doing wrong? Is any of this normal? Thanks in advance! Felix
Exactly the same as my experience with two different market leading tyres. My view is that tubeless sealant still has some way to go to deal with narrower higher pressure road bike tyre rather than off road/ mtb. Persevered and really wanted it to work but too much latex all over my frame, legs and cloths plus throwing away very expensive tyres well before they were worn due to punctures.
How can you make installation easier for hooked beaded tires. I had one hell of a time installing contenental gp5000 on a set of rims.at the ent I got them on. But it was a struggle
Even Conti have conceded that no-one was buying their tubeless tyres. They're impossible to fit and remove. Conti have now come out with a new version of tubeless tyre, but impossible to buy
I can‘t believe GCN keeps ignoring the most useful trick when it comes to installing a tubeless setup: After applying the tubeless tape you should mount a tire with an inner tube, inflate and let it rest for a few hours. After that the tape is perfectly seated.
@@Stoney3K I never said it’s easier. But the tape is perfectly seated afterwards in order to prevent any leakage long term. No more wrinkles, bubbles or anything.
Ok, what about on-going use? How often do you replace the sealant, and what do you do if you have a *very* slow leak (like need to pump it up every week or 2)?
The air loss should be no worse than latex inner tubes. If you are leaking air much quicker then there may be an issue with damaged rim tape or an improperly sealed valve. Sealant replacement depends on type of sealant used and environmental factors. General rule is follow the guidelines from the sealant manufacturer you use, or if you live and ride in particularly hot and dry conditions it will need to be a little more frequent. I heard a tip over on GMBN where you can check your sealant by removing your valve core and using a cotton bud (q tip) as a dipstick. If it comes out wet, your sealant is still good.
In which situation do you need a special Air Pump with the big thing on the side to send a huge amount of air quickly at once in the tubeless tire? Is it any different as for the installation when you have a hookless tubeless rim?
This video is very timely. I have had several punctures on my Trek Domane SLR6ETAP. I have repaired the tire (tyre) both front and rear with plugs but they are no longer holding pressure. I bought a new set several months ago so I replaced the tires using the instructions in this video. Thanks for the information, Alex! John Edeen, San Antonio, Texas.
Been "tubeless" since 2016. I'm now riding Zipp 303 firecrest wheels with Michelin tyres(28mm), I use Specialized tubeless sealant it works way better then Stan's.
I have a New most fast carbon wheels (tubeless ready they say), and they came with a rim tape pre installed. It’s more a plastic non adhesive band than a tape… should I take it off? Or is it really suitable for tubeless system?
take it off, it does not have an airtight fit like the adhesive rimtape does. It's the rimtape that makes a wheel tubeless, the sealant is just there to seal the seam between tire and rim, and give you a chance to get home with a small puncture.
I cant seat one of tires because its a little stiff and ends go in, so they pinch toward the center of the wheel. Is there a way to get the tire to be naturally go outward, so the patrs that snap into place are near oneanother?
Previously installed tubeless tires often have old dried sealant on the bead making it difficult to reinstall - removing the dried sealant is unpleasant
I don't mean to sound read but come on GCN, another video on setting up TL's? First Ollie, then John or was it the other way round, and I'm sure Simon did one too. What's next, how to wash your bike?
Maybe also make the recommendation of putting your hands and fingers through a 12 week gym strengthening programme in preparation to mounting and taking off tubeless tyres
A high volume tank would be a failsafe method but some newer wheel and tyre combinations are made to such good close tolerances that a track pump will be sufficient, especially as tubeless ready equipment now has its own ETRTO standard.
That also depends on the diameter of the tyre. You can do road tyres with a track pump if it's big enough, but if you have gravel or MTB tyres, these may require an air tank as they're a lot bigger in volume.
I need to reinflate my tires every couple of days because they have lost a noticeable amount of pressure. Is this normal? if it's not, what's the fix? More sealant?
Same problem here, it's driving me nuts.I've removed and clean my tires this weekend I'll see if it made any difference. I've noticed that my valve core was a bit clogged (I've inserted fluid though valve last time, maybe that was the issue). Every ride I had to check tire pressure... I Hope it's fixed
I love riding with tubeless tires, for 2 years and not a single puncture, but I have the same issue. I pretty much check/inflate my tires before every ride, just to make sure I have the right pressure. Recently made my wife’s bike tubeless as it came with DTswiss rims (that have tubeless rim tape) and tubeless ready tires. Even those lose pressure (only slightly slower than my own bike)… no clue how to solve this.
Always align the logo and valve yes aesthetics are great but it also enables you to check the condition of the wheel and in that case of a puncher or debris easier to locate it!
As vanilla content for a Muc Off product, this is *fine*. As an "ultimate guide" for tubeless setup, it's appalling. Tubeless setup is by no means a one-size-fits-all affair, and this hardly offers any practical advice for troubleshooting any of the numerous common issues you may encounter. If you're a home mechanic looking for practical advice for your first time setting up tubeless, you'll probably save a massive headache (and time suck) by looking elsewhere for advice. At the very least find someone who doesn't pretend like seating a tubeless tire with a floor pump requires the same leisurely effort as inflating an inner tube.
Spot on. I don't think all the cost involved to go tubeless is not worth it. The life of tubeless tyres is way way less than tubed ones. They are not puncture proof and it can be "hit and miss" the sealant might work. When you flat out on the road, which will invariably occur it is a roadside drama. It still is way way simpler and faster to just replace a tube.
Yeah i tried doing the same with pirelli tires and floor pump and i just couldn’t inflate it. I dont have air compressor or pressurized floor pump system. I dont want to spend too much money now on those stuffs just for tubeless tire.
How to install and use tubeless tires... buy tubes. I tried tubeless for over 18 months and they we're HORRIBLE!!! Hated them. I couldn't go more than 3 rides without a puncture and good spraying me in the face. Tried everything. Went back to tubes and never looked back... it's been 2 years.
I just check every 3 months if there is sealant left by removing a short section of the tire. Doing that for 3 years with 20k/year 🙂 Also if I have a puncture I do the same check after the ride.
@@Jean-jk4zv So do you use your tyre levers to remove a section of the tyre to look inside? I’ve only had my tubeless for 2 weeks now. When I had two pictures I just put 30ml and then 60ml back in depending on how much sealant I thought I lost
Honestly I thought this was going to be waaaaay messier. I'm intrigued by tubeless but I honestly can't get over the fact that I would have to carry spare tubes anyhow so why go through the hassle of going to tubeless?
Reasonable guide but in my experience it is almost impossible to re-seat a previously installed tyre as it will have stretched a bit and rarely seats close enough to the rim to stop air escaping faster than you can pump - needs an airshot / CO2 or compressor. Also all the tubeless tyres I have used (probably the two market leaders) puncture far too regularly and don't seal permanently - little beads of sealant evident on the tyre surface even from the first ride. Which gives another issue that the only way I have managed to seal anything properly is by taking off the tyre and patching internally - and that is a messy job. 18 months of tubless so gave it a good shot, now back on tubes
Alex by the time you've managed to do this I've had 2 cups of coffee and 3 slices of carrot cake and managed to fend off Ollie, if the wheel isn’t broke don't mess with it, Tubolitos and inner tubes for road unless mountain or gravel inner tubes still easiest option.😂
Love how you did this so cleanly... my first attempt looked like a bukaki party was held on my garage floor.. 🙃
I respect the level of commitment you have to covering up your bukakke party 🙏
The pop of tubeless tires is the most satisfying sound in bike maintenance.
Made that look so easy! I wish I had an Alex in my tool kit. 😊👍
Extra tip: when the tire pops on the rim, make sure it's seated evenly all around . You can do so by checking a marker-line on the sidewalls, that should be evenly distanced from the rim. Also, give the wheel a spin, you'll notice if there is a wobble or a wiggle in the tire.
If you apply sealant through the valve, you can do this after first inflation (and then deflating again). At that point, your tire is allready properly seated so no spills of sealant. After putting in the sealant, re-inflate the tire, set the valve at 12 o'clock and release some air to clean the valve-core from sealant to prevent clogging up.
About the shaking of the sealant: this depends on the brand. The Caffèlatex (Effetto Mariposa) for example should not be shaken, because it has a foaming agent in it (this will foam up whilst riding thus better distribution of the sealant if you should puncture - other sealants only get to the puncture when it's at 6 o'clock at every rotation of the wheel).
I love this video, and would feel confident changing over to tubeless now… HOWEVER … I often bike on my own and would love to see a video on field repairs for a tubeless before i feel confident to go on a long ride!
you can use tools to fix your tiers similar to car tiers or you can put tube in
at the end of the day it all boils down to road condition, I run inner tubes and find them perfect as roads by me are good the only punchers that I have had this year were all nails/screws so regardless I was gonna be stumped. Only concern I have is that tubless is great for sharp nicks and then not anything sidewall or big related so till there is a viable working option I'll stick to inner tubes.
I just take a tube with me to put on if the sealant doesn’t work. However from over 1 year of riding I have never had a single puncture on my gp 5000 tl……so I would recommend that you try it 👌
Well, the sealant should take care of the small holes and fix them while you ride. When you're riding and you feel like it is not going to be fixed by the sealant, you can use plugs. I love the dynaplug for this. Put in the plug and pump your tire. If the puncture is even bigger, I put in an inner tube, even though it will get messy at home when making the tire tubeless again,
Try latex tubes instead of butyl, if you're on disc brakes. It's better than all the fluffing about with tubeless. I find tubeless tyres are at best 2/3 the life of a tubed tyre. When you flat on tubeless more often than not it's a major roadside drama. I think tubeless for roadies still has a long way to go
As a newbie to tubeless tyres this was very insightful. Thanks
Thanks Alex! Now I hopefully can make it self in summer!
At 6:20 you mention the tire logo over the stem. I agree that it looks cool but I always grew up placing the pressure band by the stem. It's good to hear I'm not the only person that puts any thought into tire to wheel alignment!
Thanks alot Alex! I finally decided to redo my tubeless setup. I saw how thick the sealant is that muc off sells in your last video. I had some other stuff wich was more like milk with some small grain.. i washed it all off and put in the new muc off sealant. I put some sealant on the edges of the rim aswell (with my finger) and the tyres seated on the first try with a normal pump.. awesome... plus, i fixed the annoying rattle in my zipp 303s.. they left some kind of tape in the rim.. probalby a byproduct from the manufacturing process.. i managed it to poke it trough the vent hole... greetings!
And the Polish word is "tyre milk" ... true
I always take the upper width for the rim tape like for a 25 inner rim I take a 28mm tape. It covers more area so less leak excepted in the long run especially with asymmetrical rims where holes are closer to one side. I only wrap once.
My two cents on that is I have had problems with the tape curling on the edge when I fit the tire and air escapes under it. I'm not a professional so it might be related to poor workmanship :|
You make it look easy!
Been meaning to set up my new wheels on tubeless for ages but wasn’t sure how til now - thanks.
Excellent video! I’m quite tempted to give tubeless a go
Will be doing this tomorrow on the gravel bike. I got frustrated with tubeless after having some awful bad luck with punctures and ran tubes for a few years. Back to tubeless now though huzzah
I struggled getting my conti gp5000 beads to set. Another video showed using soap and water mixed, spraying it along the beads of the tire (both sides) then pumping. This trick solved my beads not sealing. Good luck
Clear and very useful
This is the best HowTo video, concerning the tubeless installation topic! Even better than my own....;-)...a little...;-))
Great job!
Alex already got the Wahoo power meter speedplay. (on the table)
Alex, Alex, Alex, you must align your tyre logo with your wheel valve to stand any chance of getting your bike into the bike vault 😊
now THIS is a well made guide on tubeless!!
p.s. I love the rally cars in the background
That was very helpful. Well explained.
Great video. My bike could use a new set of tires and I have been thinking about going tubeless. After watching, I believe that I will make the move.
The only question left: Will two different valve caps (one with the slot) cost you a supernice?
I can see Ollie pixel-peeping the next series of photos right now.
Thanks Alex...I inflate the tire before I put in the sealant , to be sure it seats ? Peace
Ive redone both of my tyres today.. first try with a normal pump.. just put some sealant all around the tyre with your finger. That sticky stuff from muc off really works...
Very informative.. Well done!! Thanks
very nice vid Alex!
Thank you!
Very well done.
Tubes for me. Have to carry a tube just in case either way. I don't like dealing with goo. Thanks for the vid though. Happy Holidays all.
Great video. Better than the Park Tool video to be honest, though I'd recommend one watch both.
I would like to know how much video footage they have before they got the perfect tubeless tyre setup :) In real life I almost never seen a tubeless installation going seamlessly on the first try :D
Ive redone both of my tyres today.. first try with a normal pump.. just put some sealant all around the tyre with your finger. That sticky stuff from muc off really works...
The Pirelli tyres are actually insanely easy to seat.
Race bike tires are easy. MTB tires are a pest to setup.
Exactly. Should come with a BIG asterisk *Your experience may be different
just doing mine now
Thank you!! Great video !!!
What about the troubleshooting in case of a less perfect situation? No Pro tips available?
Alex would you please discuss balancing the deep carbon rims? Does it worth the effort?
Tubeless and road tyres Pirelli P Zero 26's for a heavier rider having to run 90psi +, thoughts Alex. Also, noticed the Muc Off sealnt was very thick compared to others
Nicely done Alex and GCN. Anyone (GCN included) have any pro's/con's of using the Vittoria Airliners vs. liquid sealant in their tubeless setup? I've seen the GCN video on the airliners and they seem like the optimal solution (especially if you can ride home on them after a flat), but I'm hoping someone in the viewing audience has some personal experience they could pass on.
I feel like some clarification is needed in terms of tape width and expectations regarding how the tape fits in the well of the rim. Given that the well is going to take up some of the width of the tape, are there rules of thumb about whether to go wider (and how much wider, if so) on the tape width than the internal rim width? Should the tape stick all the way down in the well, or is it expected in some, cases that the tape just can't stretch that far? If it needs to go all the way down in the well, how do you deal with the inevitable wrinkles in the tape that would happen from the differing effective wheel circumference (and therefore tape length) that will happen? I've worked with Stan's rim tape and in my experience it's just not flexible enough to really stretch down into a well... It tears first, and as we all know or suspect, torn rim tape is not conducive to a reliable tubeless setup. So how are these issues addressed?
What helps with difficult rims (with a deep well) is to put a layer of electricians tape first: that is very flexible and will act as a cushion. Then the stiffer rim tape.
Great video
Are that speedplay power meter pedals at the background?
Guys thanks for a great video again!
I do have a question though about riding tubeless generally. I rode two different pairs of tyres and tried two different sealants (Panaracer Gravelking TLC with Stans sealant, and Challenge Strada Bianca with Challenge sealant). I ride road but through town I get some small stones too and other rubbish. As a result, both combinations of tyres+sealant led after the first month to tens and tens of tiny holes where the sealant was visible after a ride. And then eventually I had flats too (narely 1mm holes) which the sealants could not fill. My question is, what am I doing wrong? Is any of this normal?
Thanks in advance!
Felix
Exactly the same as my experience with two different market leading tyres. My view is that tubeless sealant still has some way to go to deal with narrower higher pressure road bike tyre rather than off road/ mtb. Persevered and really wanted it to work but too much latex all over my frame, legs and cloths plus throwing away very expensive tyres well before they were worn due to punctures.
Handy placement of the Wahoo PowerMeter pedals in the background. How do I get a pair of them :D
How can you make installation easier for hooked beaded tires. I had one hell of a time installing contenental gp5000 on a set of rims.at the ent I got them on. But it was a struggle
Even Conti have conceded that no-one was buying their tubeless tyres. They're impossible to fit and remove. Conti have now come out with a new version of tubeless tyre, but impossible to buy
I can‘t believe GCN keeps ignoring the most useful trick when it comes to installing a tubeless setup:
After applying the tubeless tape you should mount a tire with an inner tube, inflate and let it rest for a few hours. After that the tape is perfectly seated.
lol
thats crazy
And how is that easier than just pushing the tape down with your thumbs around the rim?
@@Stoney3K I never said it’s easier. But the tape is perfectly seated afterwards in order to prevent any leakage long term. No more wrinkles, bubbles or anything.
Lol i will then just install inner tube with a clincher tire and be done with it.
Ok, what about on-going use? How often do you replace the sealant, and what do you do if you have a *very* slow leak (like need to pump it up every week or 2)?
The air loss should be no worse than latex inner tubes. If you are leaking air much quicker then there may be an issue with damaged rim tape or an improperly sealed valve. Sealant replacement depends on type of sealant used and environmental factors. General rule is follow the guidelines from the sealant manufacturer you use, or if you live and ride in particularly hot and dry conditions it will need to be a little more frequent.
I heard a tip over on GMBN where you can check your sealant by removing your valve core and using a cotton bud (q tip) as a dipstick. If it comes out wet, your sealant is still good.
I haven't seen by now how tubeless tires are assembled. A first for everything
In which situation do you need a special Air Pump with the big thing on the side to send a huge amount of air quickly at once in the tubeless tire?
Is it any different as for the installation when you have a hookless tubeless rim?
This video is very timely. I have had several punctures on my Trek Domane SLR6ETAP. I have repaired the tire (tyre) both front and rear with plugs but they are no longer holding pressure. I bought a new set several months ago so I replaced the tires using the instructions in this video. Thanks for the information, Alex! John Edeen, San Antonio, Texas.
Can't get mine inflated. What is the secret to getting the tyre seated?
Do you have any tips for cleaning the tyre of the old sealant several months later?
When I replaced my tyres it just came right off with some soapy water.
Appreciate! Double profit/cycling'tech'skills & Queen's English as well,
More of a faff to set up? Yes. Say goodbye to 99.9% of punctures? Yes. No-brainer for me living in thorn city.
Is it possible to run a tubeless setup on aluminium rim brake wheels?
I'm pretty sure you can. Check at your local bike shop to see if your wheels can be used for a tubeless set up. You'll need tubeless ready tyres too.
Yes. I've done that for many years.
Wonder what’s the length of the valves?
And what about the direction of tape? Does this matter?
no
How are you getting on with that magene power meter?
Been "tubeless" since 2016. I'm now riding Zipp 303 firecrest wheels with Michelin tyres(28mm), I use Specialized tubeless sealant it works way better then Stan's.
Awesome!!!
I have never got my tyres to pop on with just a hand pump.
How much sealant roughly per wheel is needed?
Muc off actually recommends you to cut parallel to the logos. So at about 45° and not 90°. Doesn't make a big difference I think.
I have a New most fast carbon wheels (tubeless ready they say), and they came with a rim tape pre installed. It’s more a plastic non adhesive band than a tape… should I take it off? Or is it really suitable for tubeless system?
take it off, it does not have an airtight fit like the adhesive rimtape does. It's the rimtape that makes a wheel tubeless, the sealant is just there to seal the seam between tire and rim, and give you a chance to get home with a small puncture.
And what about to align tyre logo and rim logo...
if i get any puncture how do I fixed it
My existing tire rim does not have any marking, it has like a lip all around the edge of the rim on both side, can I convert it to tubeless tire?
I cant seat one of tires because its a little stiff and ends go in, so they pinch toward the center of the wheel. Is there a way to get the tire to be naturally go outward, so the patrs that snap into place are near oneanother?
Hi, I have the same problem, did you get an answer or way to install new tyres successfully?
You're so lucky - you have the fabled Park Tool pizza cutter!
Previously installed tubeless tires often have old dried sealant on the bead making it difficult to reinstall - removing the dried sealant is unpleasant
Where can I buy the "ordinary" scisors?
Definitely not available in your region..
I don't mean to sound read but come on GCN, another video on setting up TL's? First Ollie, then John or was it the other way round, and I'm sure Simon did one too.
What's next, how to wash your bike?
Maybe a follow up on how to overcome the common issues when this process doesn’t go to plan😃
Maybe also make the recommendation of putting your hands and fingers through a 12 week gym strengthening programme in preparation to mounting and taking off tubeless tyres
anyone else noticed the wahoo power pedals in the background
Great tips Alex, thank you 🙏
It would appear that you are using a standard track/floor pump . I thought an air tank to blast the tyre up was the considered method.
A high volume tank would be a failsafe method but some newer wheel and tyre combinations are made to such good close tolerances that a track pump will be sufficient, especially as tubeless ready equipment now has its own ETRTO standard.
That also depends on the diameter of the tyre. You can do road tyres with a track pump if it's big enough, but if you have gravel or MTB tyres, these may require an air tank as they're a lot bigger in volume.
I need to reinflate my tires every couple of days because they have lost a noticeable amount of pressure. Is this normal? if it's not, what's the fix? More sealant?
Same problem here, it's driving me nuts.I've removed and clean my tires this weekend I'll see if it made any difference. I've noticed that my valve core was a bit clogged (I've inserted fluid though valve last time, maybe that was the issue). Every ride I had to check tire pressure... I Hope it's fixed
I love riding with tubeless tires, for 2 years and not a single puncture, but I have the same issue. I pretty much check/inflate my tires before every ride, just to make sure I have the right pressure. Recently made my wife’s bike tubeless as it came with DTswiss rims (that have tubeless rim tape) and tubeless ready tires. Even those lose pressure (only slightly slower than my own bike)… no clue how to solve this.
It's much easier when you use a tyre that's already been on a wheel. Alex, can you do another take with a new Conti 5000Tl please? LOL
*Stupid question alert* Can i convert normal tube wheels to tubeless?
A unashamedly Muc Off promotion I will stick with tubes thanks
I want to know more about the cars in the back
I’m sure this is a helpful to some, but the sealant seems like quite a chore and mess compared to tubes and clinchers.
I thought the same but been using tubeless for over a year now - it’s a bit fiddly to install but once done it’s fit and forget. Wouldn’t go back
didn't check the line around the tyre that is close to the rim bead to see if it did sit nicely, only saying lol
next time try brand new gp5000 （old version）without tools🤣🤣🤣 cheers🥳🥳
It's a lot easier to stick an innertube in.
We are all like sheldon lining up the tyre with the valve. Anyone else feel the urge to knock three times? Or just me 😬
Always align the logo and valve yes aesthetics are great but it also enables you to check the condition of the wheel and in that case of a puncher or debris easier to locate it!
As vanilla content for a Muc Off product, this is *fine*. As an "ultimate guide" for tubeless setup, it's appalling. Tubeless setup is by no means a one-size-fits-all affair, and this hardly offers any practical advice for troubleshooting any of the numerous common issues you may encounter. If you're a home mechanic looking for practical advice for your first time setting up tubeless, you'll probably save a massive headache (and time suck) by looking elsewhere for advice. At the very least find someone who doesn't pretend like seating a tubeless tire with a floor pump requires the same leisurely effort as inflating an inner tube.
Spot on. I don't think all the cost involved to go tubeless is not worth it. The life of tubeless tyres is way way less than tubed ones. They are not puncture proof and it can be "hit and miss" the sealant might work. When you flat out on the road, which will invariably occur it is a roadside drama. It still is way way simpler and faster to just replace a tube.
Yeah i tried doing the same with pirelli tires and floor pump and i just couldn’t inflate it. I dont have air compressor or pressurized floor pump system. I dont want to spend too much money now on those stuffs just for tubeless tire.
How to install and use tubeless tires... buy tubes. I tried tubeless for over 18 months and they we're HORRIBLE!!! Hated them. I couldn't go more than 3 rides without a puncture and good spraying me in the face. Tried everything. Went back to tubes and never looked back... it's been 2 years.
3rd🥰❤️
After watching this years Paris-Roubaix, i am convinced that Tubeless is for 4 wheelers and not for any form of Two Wheeler ...Just my take
Global MUCOFF Network
In a hot and humid weather (I live in Brazil), riding 2-3 times per week (20-30km per ride), how often should I check the sealant level?
I barely check I’m in Australia. I just refill with sealant if I puncture and I know I’ve lost some
I just check every 3 months if there is sealant left by removing a short section of the tire. Doing that for 3 years with 20k/year 🙂
Also if I have a puncture I do the same check after the ride.
@@Jean-jk4zv So do you use your tyre levers to remove a section of the tyre to look inside? I’ve only had my tubeless for 2 weeks now. When I had two pictures I just put 30ml and then 60ml back in depending on how much sealant I thought I lost
@@jarrodfife242 depends of the tires / rims combination, some do not need levers...
@@Jean-jk4zv you just pull a bit back and look inside? Can you just check using the valve core though)
You are supposed to cut the tape at the angle of the text..
Honestly I thought this was going to be waaaaay messier.
I'm intrigued by tubeless but I honestly can't get over the fact that I would have to carry spare tubes anyhow so why go through the hassle of going to tubeless?
Exactly!!!!! Don’t forget u need maintenance almost 1-2mths.
I’ll never fathom why you would choose the messiest way of putting sealant in.
Can't tell you how many tubeless now have tubes. It all depends...
Seems like a lot of effort. I’m still not convinced to go tubeless
Just went back to tube last week... Tubeless is just garbage... 3 months and your tires are flat...
Reasonable guide but in my experience it is almost impossible to re-seat a previously installed tyre as it will have stretched a bit and rarely seats close enough to the rim to stop air escaping faster than you can pump - needs an airshot / CO2 or compressor. Also all the tubeless tyres I have used (probably the two market leaders) puncture far too regularly and don't seal permanently - little beads of sealant evident on the tyre surface even from the first ride. Which gives another issue that the only way I have managed to seal anything properly is by taking off the tyre and patching internally - and that is a messy job. 18 months of tubless so gave it a good shot, now back on tubes
Alex by the time you've managed to do this I've had 2 cups of coffee and 3 slices of carrot cake and managed to fend off Ollie, if the wheel isn’t broke don't mess with it, Tubolitos and inner tubes for road unless mountain or gravel inner tubes still easiest option.😂
In my experience tyres never go on that easy
Why didn't you show everyone how easy it was with a BRAND NEW tire instead of a previously set up one?