Hello William, Great Video. My question is do you have the specs for replacement bolt and washer. I'm trying to figure out the length of the bolt. I don't have another one to compare too. Also, I notice 2 washers, and 1 lock washer on each end. Is this correct? Thanks again.😊
17:27 in the video. M12-1.75x25. I used two regular washers, but I think one being a lock washer is also a good idea. The washer size is less important than the bolt size. I think I used half inch washers, but anything that fits will work. I would just pick a small pack of assorted sized washers, near half inch or M12. Let me know how it goes
Nice restoration! Do you know much about the inner workings of the sleeves? The bushings came lose in the sleeve of my barbell. They just clang back and forth when the bar is tilted now. This is not only obnoxious, but it makes my bar feel cheap and junky. Why would they come loose all the sudden after being fixed for the rest of the time I had the bar? Any way to fix this?
loose bushing are probably normal wear and tear, depending on how rough you are when you are lifting. I would contact the manufacturer of the bar, and first see if you can order new bushings. Finding the replacement parts might be more difficult than swapping them out. Let me know how it goes
@@WillMassFit Ah thanks for the reply. Honestly it’s a basic bar that I got off Craigslist years ago. I can’t really complain and it’s seen a lot of wear. I’ll just replace the bar. 😊
I have three bars total. One is cheapo but reliable bar from Amazon - Cap Barbell “The Beast”. Other two are no name bars i got off Craigslist. Decided to get rid of the bar with the loose bushings because it also was slightly bent shaft and that was no good. Only downside of getting rid of the loose bushings bar is that it was 45 lb bar whereas the no name bars weigh 39 and 40.5 lbs, respectively. Obviously this is not a huge deal since you can just add more weight to equal the outcome you like, but certainly would be nice to have two bars that weigh 45 for when I’m doing supersets
@@WillMassFit I mounted a landmine sleeve on top of a Dip bar (the kind that is meant to be attached to a squat rack). After removing the barbell sleeve, I was able to insert the landmine onto the barbell and then reattach the sleeve. I loaded plates on one end of the barbell and had the other end in another landmine. I stood with the barbell going thru my legs and lifted it using the dip bar trying to do a different version of a deadlift. It does not feel good and the experiment failed. I'm going back to regular deadlifting. I was trying to avoid doing trap bar deadlifts as Mark Rippetoe said they are worth less. I may try doing dumbbell deadlifts instead. This did not work, but watching your video helped me try. Thomas Edison.
@@dyardsale5475 The trap bar versus straight bar deadlift is an ongoing debate. All of my clients deadlift with a trap bar. It is easier to learn, and requires less technique. It sounds like you were doing something like a lever deadlift. I recommend doing both barbell and trap bar deadlifts. Both are important
@@WillMassFit That is what I was trying to do. The landmine setup causes the weight to move along an arc and it does not feel good. I'm going back to the drawing board. Mark Rippetoe says the trap bar deadlift is useless (I'm repeating) it is too much like a squat. I am going to do some more experimenting. I don't like how my lower back feels on heavy deadlifts and I suspect it is because my hands are too far forward causing too much strain on the lower back. Also, I am not flexible not an athletic person.
@@dyardsale5475 low back issues are a common complaint on deadlift days. First, go back to the RDL with less weight, and focus on form. Also, try pulling from elevation like wagon wheels, or block/rack pulls
I can’t turn the bolt with the Allen wrench. I’ve put a lot of WD-40 in, but I can’t get it off. It seems frozen on. Any thoughts on holding the bar in place while hammering on it to remove it?
I use a product called Blaster penetrating spray for difficult to remove bolts. Hammering it off will probably damage the bar. If the blaster spray alone does not work, try using a breaker bar with a hex socket bit on the end. This will give your a lot more torque. Third option would be drilling out the bolt. Keep me posted, other have asked about this
@@WillMassFit Thanks for the suggestions. I guess my main issue is that I can't even generate that much force anyways because of the bar spinning. I'm not sure how to stop and hold the bar in place while I apply force to turn the bolt. I tried picking the bar up while standing on the allen wrench and twisting the bar (while vertical) with my hands to no avail. I need some way to hold the bar secure and to not move.
@@davidshaw8846 Vice grips with adjustable jaws would be my first idea. Or placing a second angled allen wrench (hex key) at the other end of the bar, in the opposite screw. Then put the bar on a firm surface like concrete or steel. This will act like a counter torque, in the opposite direction, and should be enough to get it loose
I use a product called Blaster penetrating spray for difficult to remove bolts. Make sure to use vice grips to secure the bar, and generate counter torque while unscrewing the stuck bolt. Also, I have had good results using a hex socket on a long ratchet. The combined leverage for a long ratchet, plus the counter torque from the vice grips on the bar should be plenty. Let me know how it goes
@@WillMassFit Thanks. Ended up using a hex socket but had to place the bar into an actual vise to get the right amount of leverage. I had success at the end of the day!
I added those extra washers by choice. I always use more than needed when repairing my gym equipment. One washer should be enough. The washers do not come with the screws, but most stores have the washers located near the screws and bolts. Let me know if you have any more questions. Good luck
@Carlos-wi2kp safety for the person would include wearing gloves and a dust mask. The bar will only get scratched with high amounts of scraping and abrasion. If you want to be on the safe side, use a liquid rust remover catalyst to reduce the need for forceful pressure to remove the rust. Is that what you are referring to?
watch the video @16:00. M12-1.75x25 is the bolt size and length. Make sure to match up thread count, and get 1-2 washers to go with it. They are available at most hardware stores. Might be best to take your phone with you, and show them a portion of the video, to help match things up. Good luck. Let me know how it goes
That is a 2 part answer. Yes, the one inch plates will fit, after the two inch sleeves are removed. However, the part of the two inch sleeve has a larger collar to stop the plates from moving in towards your hands. 1. Yes the plates fit, and 2. you will be missed the stabilizing collars. It might not be safe to use. You wrap a large amount of tape around the bar to stop lateral movement, or get a pipe clamp. Either of those decisions would work for low weights. Let me know how it goes
The barbell sleeve is made with a steel ring (flat surface) to prevent movement to the inside of the bar. It matches the back side of the cup washer. Not a silly question at all. When a barbell is missing a screw, like in this video, it will only be lose to the direction of the outside of the bar, or away from center. I bought this bar used, and it had duct tape on it, to prevent movement of the sleeve to the outside.
@@WillMassFit sure thing, im buying the cold rolled steel this week if everything goes ok. Last question to keep clear, theres only one indentation on the bar, where the split flange goes, and together with the flange and the rings it stops the sleeve from going any side?
@@lucasmaster99 if you look at the video @3:20 you will see the only indentation on this bar. The shape of the bar matches the opposite flat surface on the sleeve. The matching shapes prevent the sleeve from moving to the inside of the bar, even without a screw holding it in place
There is a product called 'Blaster' which helps loosen stuck bolts and screws. You could try that. You could also drill the screw out, and get a new screw. Let me know if either of those work
@mejesse809 I recommend keeping a bent bar, and demoting it to a beater bar. Like a home made buffalo bar HAHA! Bent bars get used for rack pulls. Maybe if you use enough weight on a rack pull, you can straighten it back out. Or use it in your landmine attachment
I have repair In my life old YORK... BERG.....SCHNELL...... ALL THESES BARBELLS EVEN MODEL BUILT BEFORE WW2 HAD SERIOUS SYSTEM FOR LOCK SLEEVES. NOT AN HEXA SHITTY BOLT
You cleaned the bar from rust, then reassembled it with NO GREASE, or OIL. (Double thumbs down) In addition, I repurposed many barbells with 50X more rust, and got results 50X better. As a rule, using a plain wire brush just doesn't cut it.. You must use a drill with a wire wheel.
@@ronherkey148 Nice observation, adding oil before reassembling is a nice option. Funny you should mention a wire wheel. I have 3-4 wire brush drill bits for my next repair video. Make sure you watch it when I upload it
Be carefull This bars (just one hexa bolt per sleeve...no clips ) are dangerous.... not balanced .. under 60 000 kpsi ( really no interrest ) can bent or snap AT ALL MOMENT. I See import responsable for a great sport store in 1995 ’ ....bar cost less of 12$ sell on name ’’weider "" built in china but bad china gear. Far of DHS or ZKG ( 2 greats bars)
@@WillMassFit i See several injuries (one really hard oig coach approach really close of death ..personnaly when i enter thiis type of barbell.....its for a personal recycling) maybe i must do a video aboit that........
@@WillMassFit my method is...Cut these bars in FOUR EQUAL SECTION (20 /21 INCHRS EACH) my saw cut it like butter .....and i create with olds iron disks +llead pieces . and coat material.. (polymer) HEAPVY DUMBELLS (beautifull black disks after restauration and paint )... i create around 1999 /2012 really great dumbells (biggers 165 lbs each ... with origin knurled portion .)
@frantzracing0 This type of bar is very common in home gyms. This video was to help those who are not able to afford a premium bar. Also, the cost of less than $10, is less expensive than replacing the entire bar.
steels balls in groove ..the best system
What size drive did you need for that socket? 1/4, 3/8?
I used a 1/4 inch drive
Hello William,
Great Video. My question is do you have the specs for replacement bolt and washer. I'm trying to figure out the length of the bolt. I don't have another one to compare too. Also, I notice 2 washers, and 1 lock washer on each end. Is this correct? Thanks again.😊
17:27 in the video. M12-1.75x25. I used two regular washers, but I think one being a lock washer is also a good idea. The washer size is less important than the bolt size. I think I used half inch washers, but anything that fits will work. I would just pick a small pack of assorted sized washers, near half inch or M12. Let me know how it goes
If the end rattles a bit should I tighten the bolt at the end ?
yes, tighten the bolt. Maybe even add a washer to help secure everything. Let me know how it goes
Nice restoration! Do you know much about the inner workings of the sleeves? The bushings came lose in the sleeve of my barbell. They just clang back and forth when the bar is tilted now. This is not only obnoxious, but it makes my bar feel cheap and junky. Why would they come loose all the sudden after being fixed for the rest of the time I had the bar? Any way to fix this?
loose bushing are probably normal wear and tear, depending on how rough you are when you are lifting. I would contact the manufacturer of the bar, and first see if you can order new bushings. Finding the replacement parts might be more difficult than swapping them out. Let me know how it goes
@@WillMassFit Ah thanks for the reply. Honestly it’s a basic bar that I got off Craigslist years ago. I can’t really complain and it’s seen a lot of wear. I’ll just replace the bar. 😊
@@riffdex Good choice. You will likely be better off with a nicer bar. Plus it is always nice to have 2 bars
I have three bars total. One is cheapo but reliable bar from Amazon - Cap Barbell “The Beast”. Other two are no name bars i got off Craigslist. Decided to get rid of the bar with the loose bushings because it also was slightly bent shaft and that was no good. Only downside of getting rid of the loose bushings bar is that it was 45 lb bar whereas the no name bars weigh 39 and 40.5 lbs, respectively. Obviously this is not a huge deal since you can just add more weight to equal the outcome you like, but certainly would be nice to have two bars that weigh 45 for when I’m doing supersets
@@riffdex I have been there plenty of times my friend! Building a nice home gym is as consuming as the training itself
I wanted to see how the sleeves are removed because I am modifying a barbell trying to make a new exercise.
2:28 is the when the sleeve comes off. What new exercise are you trying to make?
@@WillMassFit I mounted a landmine sleeve on top of a Dip bar (the kind that is meant to be attached to a squat rack). After removing the barbell sleeve, I was able to insert the landmine onto the barbell and then reattach the sleeve. I loaded plates on one end of the barbell and had the other end in another landmine. I stood with the barbell going thru my legs and lifted it using the dip bar trying to do a different version of a deadlift. It does not feel good and the experiment failed. I'm going back to regular deadlifting. I was trying to avoid doing trap bar deadlifts as Mark Rippetoe said they are worth less. I may try doing dumbbell deadlifts instead. This did not work, but watching your video helped me try. Thomas Edison.
@@dyardsale5475 The trap bar versus straight bar deadlift is an ongoing debate. All of my clients deadlift with a trap bar. It is easier to learn, and requires less technique. It sounds like you were doing something like a lever deadlift. I recommend doing both barbell and trap bar deadlifts. Both are important
@@WillMassFit That is what I was trying to do. The landmine setup causes the weight to move along an arc and it does not feel good. I'm going back to the drawing board. Mark Rippetoe says the trap bar deadlift is useless (I'm repeating) it is too much like a squat. I am going to do some more experimenting. I don't like how my lower back feels on heavy deadlifts and I suspect it is because my hands are too far forward causing too much strain on the lower back. Also, I am not flexible not an athletic person.
@@dyardsale5475 low back issues are a common complaint on deadlift days. First, go back to the RDL with less weight, and focus on form. Also, try pulling from elevation like wagon wheels, or block/rack pulls
I can’t turn the bolt with the Allen wrench. I’ve put a lot of WD-40 in, but I can’t get it off. It seems frozen on. Any thoughts on holding the bar in place while hammering on it to remove it?
I use a product called Blaster penetrating spray for difficult to remove bolts. Hammering it off will probably damage the bar. If the blaster spray alone does not work, try using a breaker bar with a hex socket bit on the end. This will give your a lot more torque. Third option would be drilling out the bolt. Keep me posted, other have asked about this
@@WillMassFit Thanks for the suggestions. I guess my main issue is that I can't even generate that much force anyways because of the bar spinning. I'm not sure how to stop and hold the bar in place while I apply force to turn the bolt. I tried picking the bar up while standing on the allen wrench and twisting the bar (while vertical) with my hands to no avail. I need some way to hold the bar secure and to not move.
@@davidshaw8846 Vice grips with adjustable jaws would be my first idea. Or placing a second angled allen wrench (hex key) at the other end of the bar, in the opposite screw. Then put the bar on a firm surface like concrete or steel. This will act like a counter torque, in the opposite direction, and should be enough to get it loose
WD40 is not a penetrating oil. It’s not even a good lubricant. Get some PB Blaster, Kroil, or any good penetrating oil.
Any tips for getting a rusty hex bolt off the end of the bar? Been saturating it with WD-40 for the past day and still won’t budge.
I use a product called Blaster penetrating spray for difficult to remove bolts. Make sure to use vice grips to secure the bar, and generate counter torque while unscrewing the stuck bolt. Also, I have had good results using a hex socket on a long ratchet. The combined leverage for a long ratchet, plus the counter torque from the vice grips on the bar should be plenty. Let me know how it goes
@@WillMassFit Thanks. Ended up using a hex socket but had to place the bar into an actual vise to get the right amount of leverage. I had success at the end of the day!
@@billbill4392 Great! Happy lifting
I have a question so i need 3 lock wahers on each side? And do they come with the screws already
I added those extra washers by choice. I always use more than needed when repairing my gym equipment. One washer should be enough. The washers do not come with the screws, but most stores have the washers located near the screws and bolts. Let me know if you have any more questions. Good luck
What was the replacemenr bolt size ? Lost Lost time stamp for that part
M12 - 1.75 x 25. Time stamp is 17:26
how safe is the rust removal ?
@Carlos-wi2kp safety for the person would include wearing gloves and a dust mask. The bar will only get scratched with high amounts of scraping and abrasion. If you want to be on the safe side, use a liquid rust remover catalyst to reduce the need for forceful pressure to remove the rust. Is that what you are referring to?
My bar sleves slide out because I don’t have the bolts that keep it in place. Where do I get them? And what sizes is it,length?
watch the video @16:00. M12-1.75x25 is the bolt size and length. Make sure to match up thread count, and get 1-2 washers to go with it. They are available at most hardware stores. Might be best to take your phone with you, and show them a portion of the video, to help match things up. Good luck. Let me know how it goes
Tenho uma barra sem esses parafusos e as duas mangas onde posso adquirir essas peças.
Thank you so much!
You are welcome. Happy lifting
Can I remove the sleeves and use it on one inch plates?
That is a 2 part answer. Yes, the one inch plates will fit, after the two inch sleeves are removed. However, the part of the two inch sleeve has a larger collar to stop the plates from moving in towards your hands. 1. Yes the plates fit, and 2. you will be missed the stabilizing collars. It might not be safe to use. You wrap a large amount of tape around the bar to stop lateral movement, or get a pipe clamp. Either of those decisions would work for low weights. Let me know how it goes
Silly question but what keeps the sleeve from sliding to the other side?
The barbell sleeve is made with a steel ring (flat surface) to prevent movement to the inside of the bar. It matches the back side of the cup washer. Not a silly question at all. When a barbell is missing a screw, like in this video, it will only be lose to the direction of the outside of the bar, or away from center. I bought this bar used, and it had duct tape on it, to prevent movement of the sleeve to the outside.
@@WillMassFit thanks a lot! Trying to build my own barbell and this part is what confuses me the most
@@lucasmaster99 very cool that you are building your own barbell. Let me know how it goes
@@WillMassFit sure thing, im buying the cold rolled steel this week if everything goes ok.
Last question to keep clear, theres only one indentation on the bar, where the split flange goes, and together with the flange and the rings it stops the sleeve from going any side?
@@lucasmaster99 if you look at the video @3:20 you will see the only indentation on this bar. The shape of the bar matches the opposite flat surface on the sleeve. The matching shapes prevent the sleeve from moving to the inside of the bar, even without a screw holding it in place
i went to unloosen mine and there is just no way it will budge
There is a product called 'Blaster' which helps loosen stuck bolts and screws. You could try that. You could also drill the screw out, and get a new screw. Let me know if either of those work
The bar looks bent, in which case, time for the garbage bin
@mejesse809 I recommend keeping a bent bar, and demoting it to a beater bar. Like a home made buffalo bar HAHA! Bent bars get used for rack pulls. Maybe if you use enough weight on a rack pull, you can straighten it back out. Or use it in your landmine attachment
Do you have an approximate weight for the sleeve?
my guess would be around 5 pounds per sleeve. Most of the weight is in the full straight piece in the center of the bar
@@WillMassFit Thank You!
@@jasonbell9975 You are welcome
I have repair In my life old YORK... BERG.....SCHNELL...... ALL THESES BARBELLS EVEN MODEL BUILT BEFORE WW2 HAD SERIOUS SYSTEM FOR LOCK SLEEVES. NOT AN HEXA SHITTY BOLT
You cleaned the bar from rust, then reassembled it with NO GREASE, or OIL. (Double thumbs down)
In addition, I repurposed many barbells with 50X more rust, and got results 50X better. As a rule, using a plain wire brush just doesn't cut it.. You must use a drill with a wire wheel.
@@ronherkey148 Nice observation, adding oil before reassembling is a nice option. Funny you should mention a wire wheel. I have 3-4 wire brush drill bits for my next repair video. Make sure you watch it when I upload it
Be carefull This bars (just one hexa bolt per sleeve...no clips ) are dangerous.... not balanced .. under 60 000 kpsi ( really no interrest ) can bent or snap AT ALL MOMENT. I See import responsable for a great sport store in 1995 ’ ....bar cost less of 12$ sell on name ’’weider "" built in china but bad china gear. Far of DHS or ZKG ( 2 greats bars)
This is a basic home gym bar. Not intended for competition standards
@@WillMassFit i See several injuries (one really hard oig coach approach really close of death ..personnaly when i enter thiis type of barbell.....its for a personal recycling) maybe i must do a video aboit that........
@@WillMassFit BAWE IS SAFETY... EVEN FOR BEGGINERS OR PERSONS NOT REALLY STRENGHT....
@@WillMassFit my method is...Cut these bars in FOUR EQUAL SECTION (20 /21 INCHRS EACH) my saw cut it like butter .....and i create with olds iron disks +llead pieces . and coat material.. (polymer) HEAPVY DUMBELLS (beautifull black disks after restauration and paint )... i create around 1999 /2012 really great dumbells (biggers 165 lbs each ... with origin knurled portion .)
@@WillMassFit i one break at 2 x 45 lbs diisk.. crack was not bolt... but xtrem end of bar ...in end of screw surface
Why waste the time on a low quality bar?
@frantzracing0 This type of bar is very common in home gyms. This video was to help those who are not able to afford a premium bar. Also, the cost of less than $10, is less expensive than replacing the entire bar.