Best videos I've seen on the internet on this subject. You are amazing. You are a top master at this works. I wish you a healthy and happy long life and peace to Ukraine and Russia. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Now I have devices that make it possible to measure the surface with an accuracy of a few tenths of a micron (two or three -0.0003 mm). Two years after the manufacture of these rulers, I accurately measured one of them. The error was 3.6 microns. But, I think, immediately after lapping, the accuracy was higher. Yes, I am in the center of Ukraine.
wonderful video. i allways wanted a surface plater and camelback straightedge, but no resources to do it. this shows how i can do it. thank you. subscribed to your channel.
@@gena_bazarko Hi Gena, A camelback straight edge is what people use as extremely accurate flat reference for hand scraping. It's made of cast iron and looks like a flat beam with a curved hump and a pair of feet on the hump. The top of the beam is either precisely surface ground or hand scraped to within 10 micrometer or less for a 1.000 mm length straight edge. So the straight edge you made yourself in this video is kind of a homemade version while a camelback straight edge is the commercially available way of reference for hand scraping something.
Вітання, гарна англійська, аж слухати приємно Зараз у нас велика проблема з тим, що люди не хочуть її вчити або не прикладають достатніх зусиль, проте, у Вас і слова підібрані правильно, і вимога непогана :) У нашої молоді часто гірше і те, і те)
He my friend : ) right now I am doing the same thing in my workshop! So cool : ) Previously I grinded three granite plates gainst each other to flatten them, it takes 1 months.... but it's so much fun to see the progress
Very nice technique. I literally finished “scraping” an inline-6 intake manifold flat on my surface plate last night using a die grinder like you started with . My milling machine is way too small to cut it, so had to use all hand tools . Slava Ukraini!
Great work, especially showing exactly what it looks and sounds like to lap with just the proper speed and force. But about wringing. It's not atmospheric pressure. It turns out to be electrostatic force that does that stickiness. Both surfaces get a random 2-colour pattern. The two 'colours' are positive and negative surface charge, and the matching surface's pattern is the inverse, so opposites attract, and that is why wringing is so strong, but only for a very short distance roughtly equal to the length scale of the surface charge pattern. The charge pattern naturally forms because of friction, and self-organises because of electrostatic forces in the plane. Which is why wringing happens if you rub the two surfaces together, and the length scale has to do with how short a distance that rubbing is. If you rub in smaller and firmer little circles, you get stronger wringing but it breaks after a shorter separation, and it's limited by how truely flat the surfaces are. Also, you can really feel how much harder it is to move the surfaces only a little way rather than a long way - if you get them to slip, then they tend to separate and float over each other instead of holding, so it's easier to move them a longer distance of a few cm than a shorter distance of only a few mm. All that force - enough to lift the weight of one of those I beams - and it's only a tiny little charge difference across the surface, which makes it hard to measure in its own right.
Wonderful stuff! Your work is beyond impressive. Thank you for taking time to put these videos, translated to English, and share with the world! Are you a metrology specialist by trade?
I already saw the notification in the mail, now you supported me through Patrion, thanks! I have been interested in metrology for the last five years, although I have no education. But I have a lot of technical experience. I will tell you more about myself in a letter.
@@gena_bazarko I'm happy to support you and your work! Especially considering the current situation in Ukraine. I hope you and your family are safe and doing OK during these hard times. By the way, I speak Russian (as you can guess from my name 🙂), so if it's easier for you we can switch to Russian. Unfortunately I don't know Ukrainian (although I'm 50% Ukrainian myself).
In this case, the lower ruler is held not by molecular adhesion, but only by atmospheric pressure. Very small gap. The surface works like a suction cup.
@@gena_bazarko последнее слово лучше переписать. It works like a sucker. Ощущение, что вы вопрошающего сосунком обозвали). Можете дать ссылку на насадку на дремель на АлиЭкспресс? Хочу попробовать.
@@gena_bazarko это печально. Читал комменты, многие интересуются. Как шкрябать карбидом вольфрама инфы много, где купить гуглится. Так что ваш метод интересен, но не повторяем. Особенно для инглиш аудитории, думаю, что лучше давать ссылки на ибэй.
A very interesting demonstration. Would we need to use a heat treatment like annealing to relieve stresses in the I beam? If I was using scrap I beam, I would worry that dimensional stability might vary with temperature or over time. The I beam you are using looks aged and might be more stable, if it has been through many Ukraine summer winter cycles. I have experimented with 3 granite slabs to make straight edges so I am aware of the patience, time and attention it would take to get results like you show.
I searched but did not find any scientific studies regarding the stability of materials. There are definitely internal stresses in an I-beam, even if it is several decades old, it is easy to determine. Now I have the ability to measure within 1000 mm with an accuracy of about 0.3 microns, and in time I will determine if arbitrary deformation occurs. I measured one of these rulers two years after lapping. The error was 3.6 microns. I think annealing is desirable.
I would be more worried that the I-beam would deform when you remove a thin layer of material from one side. I have experienced a cold rolled flat bar bending visibly when cut in the middle. Also, you have to be very careful when handling the i-beam with bare hands because as one side warms up in comparison to the other the beam would bend a tiny bit. Robin Renzetti - Robrenz talks about those things on his channel.
Some steps to mitigate these effects might be to a) wear gloves while handling them and b) always take a print with Prussian blue from each face against the other ones to verify flatness, and against a sufficiently large surface plate to make sure there's no twisting that's set in.
1:00 I don't know why but I think such a device is called "repeat-o-meter" (or so) It wouldn't detect a uniform bow in the surface without a reference but it easily detects nonuniform curvature. The other technique I've seen is using a precision level.
I will be grateful to you. Now I am limited in my ability to film new videos, since the working room is heated at a minimum level. I hope to make new and interesting material in the spring. There will be a higher level of accuracy (surface plate - granite 600x600mm, ruler 1070mm, etc.).
Hi, fantastic work! Can you please share with us what gradation of the rubber abrasive and the paste you have used? Also, what is the correct order of lapping? I know it's something like 1 and 2, then 1 and 3 and so on. But it has to be right from the beginning to the end to make it perfect. Thank you!
Brilliant! Question: It looks like these tools will be heavy. Would ~50mm lightening holes (drilled prior to grinding/lapping, of course) weaken, perhaps destabilize, the tool?
7:01 I guess the 2 points are intentionally not at the end to minimize deformation from the own weight of these straight edges. I wonder if something like soft foam on a somewhat flat surface could work to even out the forces.
Surely the ends of the surfaces receive less abrasion than the centre when lapping? As you move the beams, the ends are not always in contact whereas the centre is always in contact. Does this affect the process?
@@gena_bazarko Thank you for the reply. I had no idea I could even do as you suggested. I must say, I'm very impressed with the work you put into this video. If you simply google search "8000 lb ratcheting farm jack" you will get countless pictures of the 48" version that I have. They are 2 inches by 7/8" tiny I beams with holes throughout the center. They are designed to lift tractors and things. I've had mine for maybe 20 years and never used it as it needed a little work so it sat on my list of things to do, but never got done. It occurs to me that it would make a perfect straight edge, yet I have never seen it done. It could also make a great rail for some cnc machine. I'm wondering why no one has ever done it and looked to youtube and yourself for potential reasons. They seems to fit the need perfectly, so why isn't it done? I must be missing something.
Probably only one side of the straight edge is usually needed. But if you need two parallel sides, then this is not a problem, you just need to make a special tripod for the mechanical comparator. He should rest on the first side, which is flat, and take readings from the opposite side. then the opposite one can be methodically processed by checking its condition with this device.
Gena; I wondered if you have a chance to see how stable the straight edge is, since finishing it? These I beams are structural steel? They look old enough to have been "stress relieved"? They stick like gauge blocks! They are very flat, but I guess that the size/thickness accuracy is limited by the flatness of the surface grinder "tilt"? You are a man of immense patience, sir.... 🇨🇦🐻❄️🤍⚙️🛠️♎
This question worries many. Now, using the tools and skills that I have received, I can answer this question. I will conduct such an experiment, shoot a video and publish it. But this takes some time. But even now I can say that in the worst case, my ruler received an inaccuracy of its surface of no more than three microns in two years, with a length of 820 millimeters.
What a great knowledge and practice! I haven't seen such great work for a long time here on youtube. Can you tell in approx time how many hours it took after you started working on these after they were surface grinded? And what kind of steel this is? Regular black steel? Hope you're safe and your family! And I would love to see a video where You talk about yourself and where your knowledge came from!
Hello! Thank you for the compliments. I did these straight edges for about five days. These are simple I-beams. Where did I get my skills from? - From early childhood, I showed a pronounced ability to draw, design mechanisms and loved to craft. Then I constantly practiced, creating various devices, often associated with my work (clothing production), repairing mechanisms, equipment, and so on. Over time, I became a person who can design and sew any clothes for myself (I practically don’t buy them), make a vehicle for myself (now I’m designing an electric tricycle for myself, gasoline has become expensive), furniture and so on. If in Ukraine, as in the USA, it was allowed to make weapons for myself, then without any problems I could design and make, say, a revolver or the like, and it would not be possible to distinguish it from a sample of industrial production. Well, that's pretty much what I said about myself. If I have a large audience, then of course I will make a video about myself. For now, you can email if you want.
Геннадий, здравствуйте, ваша работа выглядит потрясающе! Половина интернета будет обучаться на этих видео, особенно с учетом подачи на английском. Подскажите пжлст какую именно «резиновую абразивную» насадку вы используете для дремеля при «шабрении»?
Hello. If you use a hard vitrified abrasive tip, the material will be removed too deep. Rubber-abrasive tips are soft, and the processing result is noticeably better. Rubber abrasive nozzles are better to have different grain sizes. The more elastic the nozzle, the better. Здравствуйте. Если использовать жесткую абразивную насадку на керамической связке, происходит излишне глубокое удаление материала. Резино-абразивные насадки мягкие, и результат обработки заметно лучше. Резино абразивные насадки лучше иметь разной зернистости. Чем эластичнее насадка, тем лучше.
The straight edge feels very hard. But in fact, it bends under its own weight. Of course, we are talking about fractions of a micron. But if the supports are placed along the edges, then a deflection will appear in the center. In order to disturb the straightness as little as possible, the supports must be placed in appropriate places. These are called Вassel points.
Hello @jimhopkins9675 Mister @gena_bazarko answered your question but maybe the explanation below will help too. 1-Airy points - zero slope at ends and when end surfaces must be parallel to each other - supports located 0.21132 L from each end 2-Bessel points - minimum change in length - supports located 0.2203 L from each end 3-Minimum deflection points due to gravity - supports located 0.2232 L from each end 4-Nodal points of first vibration mode - zero deflection at these points during free vibration - supports located 0.2242 L from each end Numerical values of Bessel points and Minimum deflection points are too close to each other. And in practice, I think both of them can be considered the same.
Wow, very nice video. I would love to see more of your tool making. I like the repeat meter design. Too light on the fixed side? I also hope for peace and victory in Ukraine 😢
That's sad. It means that those of us that would like to have a straight edge without tools that's not possible :)@@gena_bazarko I'm curious when surface lapping can we get decent parallelism between two surfaces? I mean during lapping gravity plays a role. If we lower the accuracy requirements perhaps we can also get a decently parallel surface?
@@jackskalski3699 Unfortunately, the translator does not exactly do the technical translation. Therefore, I do not understand the essence of the issue. Gravity has almost no effect on such an I-beam; from its mass, it bends only a few tenths of a micron.
@@gena_bazarko let me explain. I was asking if via lapping two sides, we can expect some degree of parallelism between the top and bottom (if we do the 3 plate method x2, once for top and once for bottom)
@@jackskalski3699 The 3 plate method only addresses flatness. Parallelism is a separate issue. You's start by making one side flat then making the other sided an equal distance from the flat side by simultaneously making it flat AND at a specific distance from the first side. Not easy, but doable with care. You can read about how the great man himself, Joseph Whitworth, created the first flat surface plate then the first true parallels then the first true square in the book "the Whitworth measuring machine".
Спочатку лінійки шліфувались на плоскошліфувальному. після вимірювань визначилось, що площини посередині понижені на 17 мікрон відносно початку та кінця лінійки. Тому ці місця були знижені шліфовкою. Потім три лінійки були притерті одна до одної. Таким чином вони стали дуже плоскими, з похибкою приблизно до одного мікрона. В подальшому вони придатні для ремонту пар лінійного зміщення (направляючих) станків. Приблизно так. Якщо купувати таку лінійку готовою, вона коштує чималу суму.
@@gena_bazarko There are many issues involved. The #1 issue is the desire for MONEY by the weapons manufacturers who FORCED this war with their political puppets that they own. A needless war so a few can make profits.
Hello! Yes, this table is not for this job. But what matters is the idea that such work can be done by anyone who needs it, even if there are no special conditions for this work).
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
"laping 3 surfaces between themselves is where precision was born"
Often called the 3 plate method.
also muscles
Everything in accordance with metrology art. Great job and greatly explained to audience. Best regards from Poland!
Never seen any implementation like this, amazing how no complicated process was used here.
Best videos I've seen on the internet on this subject. You are amazing. You are a top master at this works. I wish you a healthy and happy long life and peace to Ukraine
and Russia. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
We so glad you come back to us!
you rang I-beams, very nice man, you are very skilled
I really enjoy your videos! It’s amazing what you can do with limited resources!! Hope you’re safe in Ukraine
Now I have devices that make it possible to measure the surface with an accuracy of a few tenths of a micron (two or three -0.0003 mm). Two years after the manufacture of these rulers, I accurately measured one of them. The error was 3.6 microns. But, I think, immediately after lapping, the accuracy was higher. Yes, I am in the center of Ukraine.
wonderful video.
i allways wanted a surface plater and camelback straightedge, but no resources to do it. this shows how i can do it. thank you.
subscribed to your channel.
Tell me what this is - camelback straightedge?
@@gena_bazarko Hi Gena,
A camelback straight edge is what people use as extremely accurate flat reference for hand scraping. It's made of cast iron and looks like a flat beam with a curved hump and a pair of feet on the hump. The top of the beam is either precisely surface ground or hand scraped to within 10 micrometer or less for a 1.000 mm length straight edge. So the straight edge you made yourself in this video is kind of a homemade version while a camelback straight edge is the commercially available way of reference for hand scraping something.
Вітання, гарна англійська, аж слухати приємно
Зараз у нас велика проблема з тим, що люди не хочуть її вчити або не прикладають достатніх зусиль, проте, у Вас і слова підібрані правильно, і вимога непогана :)
У нашої молоді часто гірше і те, і те)
He my friend : ) right now I am doing the same thing in my workshop! So cool : )
Previously I grinded three granite plates gainst each other to flatten them, it takes 1 months.... but it's so much fun to see the progress
Very interesting. Nice work mister
This is stupid impressive! Please keep up the awesome work!!!
Very nice technique.
I literally finished “scraping” an inline-6 intake manifold flat on my surface plate last night using a die grinder like you started with . My milling machine is way too small to cut it, so had to use all hand tools .
Slava Ukraini!
Extremely impressive work, superb result !
Beautiful explanation, thank you so much! All the best from Portugal!
Extremely impressive, and innovative way to achieve unbelievably good accuracy with something less than ideal in rigidity!🎉🎉
The I-beam is very rigid in terms of deflection, and malleable in terms of twisting.
Nice one 🙂 I want a guy like you who can make my CNC absolutely square 😸
Absolutely wonderful, something inside me wants to do this project, although I have no use for such an instrument 😁
Very interesting - measurement is everything - good to see different ways of metal removal
Great work, especially showing exactly what it looks and sounds like to lap with just the proper speed and force.
But about wringing. It's not atmospheric pressure.
It turns out to be electrostatic force that does that stickiness.
Both surfaces get a random 2-colour pattern. The two 'colours' are positive and negative surface charge, and the matching surface's pattern is the inverse, so opposites attract, and that is why wringing is so strong, but only for a very short distance roughtly equal to the length scale of the surface charge pattern.
The charge pattern naturally forms because of friction, and self-organises because of electrostatic forces in the plane. Which is why wringing happens if you rub the two surfaces together, and the length scale has to do with how short a distance that rubbing is. If you rub in smaller and firmer little circles, you get stronger wringing but it breaks after a shorter separation, and it's limited by how truely flat the surfaces are. Also, you can really feel how much harder it is to move the surfaces only a little way rather than a long way - if you get them to slip, then they tend to separate and float over each other instead of holding, so it's easier to move them a longer distance of a few cm than a shorter distance of only a few mm.
All that force - enough to lift the weight of one of those I beams - and it's only a tiny little charge difference across the surface, which makes it hard to measure in its own right.
Wonderful stuff! Your work is beyond impressive. Thank you for taking time to put these videos, translated to English, and share with the world! Are you a metrology specialist by trade?
I already saw the notification in the mail, now you supported me through Patrion, thanks! I have been interested in metrology for the last five years, although I have no education. But I have a lot of technical experience. I will tell you more about myself in a letter.
@@gena_bazarko I'm happy to support you and your work! Especially considering the current situation in Ukraine. I hope you and your family are safe and doing OK during these hard times. By the way, I speak Russian (as you can guess from my name 🙂), so if it's easier for you we can switch to Russian. Unfortunately I don't know Ukrainian (although I'm 50% Ukrainian myself).
Great work, congrats ! Slava Ukraine ! Greetings from Romania .
Wov so impressive. The pieces are like glued together. Like gauge blocks.
In this case, the lower ruler is held not by molecular adhesion, but only by atmospheric pressure. Very small gap. The surface works like a suction cup.
@@gena_bazarko последнее слово лучше переписать. It works like a sucker. Ощущение, что вы вопрошающего сосунком обозвали). Можете дать ссылку на насадку на дремель на АлиЭкспресс? Хочу попробовать.
@@ИванДмитриев-ф1в Спасибо, исправил. Я покупал насадки в магазине, потому ссылки дать не могу.
@@gena_bazarko это печально. Читал комменты, многие интересуются. Как шкрябать карбидом вольфрама инфы много, где купить гуглится. Так что ваш метод интересен, но не повторяем. Особенно для инглиш аудитории, думаю, что лучше давать ссылки на ибэй.
Amazing work well done
A very interesting demonstration.
Would we need to use a heat treatment like annealing to relieve stresses in the I beam? If I was using scrap I beam, I would worry that dimensional stability might vary with temperature or over time. The I beam you are using looks aged and might be more stable, if it has been through many Ukraine summer winter cycles.
I have experimented with 3 granite slabs to make straight edges so I am aware of the patience, time and attention it would take to get results like you show.
I searched but did not find any scientific studies regarding the stability of materials. There are definitely internal stresses in an I-beam, even if it is several decades old, it is easy to determine. Now I have the ability to measure within 1000 mm with an accuracy of about 0.3 microns, and in time I will determine if arbitrary deformation occurs. I measured one of these rulers two years after lapping. The error was 3.6 microns. I think annealing is desirable.
I would be more worried that the I-beam would deform when you remove a thin layer of material from one side. I have experienced a cold rolled flat bar bending visibly when cut in the middle.
Also, you have to be very careful when handling the i-beam with bare hands because as one side warms up in comparison to the other the beam would bend a tiny bit. Robin Renzetti - Robrenz talks about those things on his channel.
Some steps to mitigate these effects might be to a) wear gloves while handling them and b) always take a print with Prussian blue from each face against the other ones to verify flatness, and against a sufficiently large surface plate to make sure there's no twisting that's set in.
That is amazing, thanks for the video and well explained.
this guy is my hero! ok, now back to lapping
Amazing work. Thanks for sharing.
1:00 I don't know why but I think such a device is called "repeat-o-meter" (or so)
It wouldn't detect a uniform bow in the surface without a reference but it
easily detects nonuniform curvature.
The other technique I've seen is using a precision level.
Extremely impressive,, 👍👍
Great stuff and dedication 💯💯
Thank you for this helpful video. How do you store the straight edges so that they do not warp or go out of straight?
Nice video! I was wondering if it would be beneficial to use a lapping plate wider than the other pieces? That way app points get equal contact time.
Great stuff Gena, let me share this around a bit and see if I can boost your channel
I will be grateful to you. Now I am limited in my ability to film new videos, since the working room is heated at a minimum level. I hope to make new and interesting material in the spring. There will be a higher level of accuracy (surface plate - granite 600x600mm, ruler 1070mm, etc.).
Hi, fantastic work! Can you please share with us what gradation of the rubber abrasive and the paste you have used? Also, what is the correct order of lapping? I know it's something like 1 and 2, then 1 and 3 and so on. But it has to be right from the beginning to the end to make it perfect. Thank you!
Brilliant! Question: It looks like these tools will be heavy. Would ~50mm lightening holes (drilled prior to grinding/lapping, of course) weaken, perhaps destabilize, the tool?
Very informative 👍
Impressionnant!
This is truly awesome! Very impressive.
Could you please provide a link to the rubber abrasive tips you used? Thank you!
This is awesome. My only issue is finding setup blocks at 1 micron steps in Canada!!!!
If I send you such a set to Canada, the cost will be about 30-35 dollars plus about 20 dollars of postage.
That sounds great. How do we proceed?
@@gregzabek65On my channel, in the "about the channel" section, my mail is indicated.
Those are standard metric gauge blocks available anywhere that sells gauge blocks, including Canada so I don't know what you are talking about.
alright.... time to to grind i guess.
Amazing job man.
7:01 I guess the 2 points are intentionally not at the end to minimize deformation from the own weight of these straight edges.
I wonder if something like soft foam on a somewhat flat surface could work to even out the forces.
Foam can be cast onto a mirror using a separator.
Wow, this is awesome! I’m going to subscribe it’s very informative. Thanks.
Surely the ends of the surfaces receive less abrasion than the centre when lapping? As you move the beams, the ends are not always in contact whereas the centre is always in contact. Does this affect the process?
Fantastic, as usual!
Great work applying first principles. May God protect you in Ukraine.
I just had the idea of using one of those farm jacks and found your channel.
They are like small I beams with holes in them. Would it work?
Write a question to the mail with a photo of the beam.
@@gena_bazarko Thank you for the reply. I had no idea I could even do as you suggested. I must say, I'm very impressed with the work you put into this video.
If you simply google search "8000 lb ratcheting farm jack" you will get countless pictures of the 48" version that I have.
They are 2 inches by 7/8" tiny I beams with holes throughout the center. They are designed to lift tractors and things. I've had mine for maybe 20 years and never used it as it needed a little work so it sat on my list of things to do, but never got done. It occurs to me that it would make a perfect straight edge, yet I have never seen it done. It could also make a great rail for some cnc machine. I'm wondering why no one has ever done it and looked to youtube and yourself for potential reasons. They seems to fit the need perfectly, so why isn't it done? I must be missing something.
great video
That's sick they can ring together!! That proves they are flat!! Very very very flat!
Is it possible to use magnesium mwtal bar for a small straight edge?
Wow so cool! Question, would it be possible to make both sides of the I beam extremely parallel? How would one do such a thing?
Probably only one side of the straight edge is usually needed. But if you need two parallel sides, then this is not a problem, you just need to make a special tripod for the mechanical comparator. He should rest on the first side, which is flat, and take readings from the opposite side. then the opposite one can be methodically processed by checking its condition with this device.
Another great video! 👍🇺🇦
Gena; I wondered if you have a chance to see how stable the straight edge is, since finishing it? These I beams are structural steel? They look old enough to have been "stress relieved"?
They stick like gauge blocks!
They are very flat, but I guess that the size/thickness accuracy is limited by the flatness of the surface grinder "tilt"?
You are a man of immense patience, sir....
🇨🇦🐻❄️🤍⚙️🛠️♎
This question worries many. Now, using the tools and skills that I have received, I can answer this question. I will conduct such an experiment, shoot a video and publish it. But this takes some time. But even now I can say that in the worst case, my ruler received an inaccuracy of its surface of no more than three microns in two years, with a length of 820 millimeters.
Yes, the condition of the surface grinder will affect the result. But this can also be dealt with.
Ageing doesn't remove the internal stresses of steel products in any meaningful numbers, only a heat treatment can do that.
how long did that tae?
Hey you jackt bro what sport are you doing ? " Sport ? i m flattening beam !"
Neat work! What is the rotary tool head that you used?
I made it when I didn't have better controls.
Great work !
What a great knowledge and practice! I haven't seen such great work for a long time here on youtube. Can you tell in approx time how many hours it took after you started working on these after they were surface grinded? And what kind of steel this is? Regular black steel? Hope you're safe and your family! And I would love to see a video where You talk about yourself and where your knowledge came from!
Hello! Thank you for the compliments. I did these straight edges for about five days. These are simple I-beams. Where did I get my skills from? - From early childhood, I showed a pronounced ability to draw, design mechanisms and loved to craft. Then I constantly practiced, creating various devices, often associated with my work (clothing production), repairing mechanisms, equipment, and so on. Over time, I became a person who can design and sew any clothes for myself (I practically don’t buy them), make a vehicle for myself (now I’m designing an electric tricycle for myself, gasoline has become expensive), furniture and so on. If in Ukraine, as in the USA, it was allowed to make weapons for myself, then without any problems I could design and make, say, a revolver or the like, and it would not be possible to distinguish it from a sample of industrial production. Well, that's pretty much what I said about myself. If I have a large audience, then of course I will make a video about myself. For now, you can email if you want.
What type of steel profile you used? IPN? What are the dimensions? I will promote your channel to all my friends. I like your passion for precision.
Здравствуйте,а для чего такая космическая точность на этих железках?, или это ради эксперемента
Геннадий, здравствуйте, ваша работа выглядит потрясающе! Половина интернета будет обучаться на этих видео, особенно с учетом подачи на английском. Подскажите пжлст какую именно «резиновую абразивную» насадку вы используете для дремеля при «шабрении»?
Hello. If you use a hard vitrified abrasive tip, the material will be removed too deep. Rubber-abrasive tips are soft, and the processing result is noticeably better. Rubber abrasive nozzles are better to have different grain sizes. The more elastic the nozzle, the better.
Здравствуйте. Если использовать жесткую абразивную насадку на керамической связке, происходит излишне глубокое удаление материала. Резино-абразивные насадки мягкие, и результат обработки заметно лучше. Резино абразивные насадки лучше иметь разной зернистости. Чем эластичнее насадка, тем лучше.
Thnx, seems I found proper ones
Спасибо! Кажется нашёл подходящие
Very interesting
Simple amazing!!!!
I do not understand what you mean by "bassel points." Please explain.
The straight edge feels very hard. But in fact, it bends under its own weight. Of course, we are talking about fractions of a micron. But if the supports are placed along the edges, then a deflection will appear in the center. In order to disturb the straightness as little as possible, the supports must be placed in appropriate places. These are called Вassel points.
Hello @jimhopkins9675
Mister @gena_bazarko answered your question but maybe the explanation below will help too.
1-Airy points - zero slope at ends and when end surfaces must be parallel to each other - supports located 0.21132 L from each end
2-Bessel points - minimum change in length - supports located 0.2203 L from each end
3-Minimum deflection points due to gravity - supports located 0.2232 L from each end
4-Nodal points of first vibration mode - zero deflection at these points during free vibration - supports located 0.2242 L from each end
Numerical values of Bessel points and Minimum deflection points are too close to each other. And in practice, I think both of them can be considered the same.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_points#Bessel_points
00:10:11 "... the lower ruler is held only by atmospheric pressure"
Wow, very nice video. I would love to see more of your tool making. I like the repeat meter design. Too light on the fixed side? I also hope for peace and victory in Ukraine 😢
Great video, brother!
Slava Ukraini!
😁👍
He’s more patient than me, I’m off👋
whitworth 3 plate method
Good day! since these are not planar slabs, but straight edges, it is necessary to apply a precision level in addition to this method.
That's sad. It means that those of us that would like to have a straight edge without tools that's not possible :)@@gena_bazarko I'm curious when surface lapping can we get decent parallelism between two surfaces? I mean during lapping gravity plays a role. If we lower the accuracy requirements perhaps we can also get a decently parallel surface?
@@jackskalski3699 Unfortunately, the translator does not exactly do the technical translation. Therefore, I do not understand the essence of the issue. Gravity has almost no effect on such an I-beam; from its mass, it bends only a few tenths of a micron.
@@gena_bazarko let me explain. I was asking if via lapping two sides, we can expect some degree of parallelism between the top and bottom (if we do the 3 plate method x2, once for top and once for bottom)
@@jackskalski3699 The 3 plate method only addresses flatness. Parallelism is a separate issue. You's start by making one side flat then making the other sided an equal distance from the flat side by simultaneously making it flat AND at a specific distance from the first side. Not easy, but doable with care.
You can read about how the great man himself, Joseph Whitworth, created the first flat surface plate then the first true parallels then the first true square in the book "the Whitworth measuring machine".
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Ah, "propeller" means a "twist*...
Ніц не зрозуміло... Але дуже цікаво!
Спочатку лінійки шліфувались на плоскошліфувальному. після вимірювань визначилось, що площини посередині понижені на 17 мікрон відносно початку та кінця лінійки. Тому ці місця були знижені шліфовкою. Потім три лінійки були притерті одна до одної. Таким чином вони стали дуже плоскими, з похибкою приблизно до одного мікрона. В подальшому вони придатні для ремонту пар лінійного зміщення (направляючих) станків. Приблизно так. Якщо купувати таку лінійку готовою, вона коштує чималу суму.
@@gena_bazarko Дякую.
koshmar
Anulação urgente do inocente. Kikkk
Please stop yellow-blue fascism!
There is no such fascism, the fascist regime is now in Russia. Russia unleashed a war - Ukraine is forced to defend itself.
@@gena_bazarko There are many issues involved. The #1 issue is the desire for MONEY by the weapons manufacturers who FORCED this war with their political puppets that they own. A needless war so a few can make profits.
What a great job.. but i have to say a thing,,, you need a more stable table
Hello! Yes, this table is not for this job. But what matters is the idea that such work can be done by anyone who needs it, even if there are no special conditions for this work).
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