Very good video :) In stead of diamond powder or paste, you can also use Cerium oxide.... It's available as a powder in many different grit sizes, and it's 90% as fast/effective as "real" diamond abrasives. And since it's so much cheaper, get a few hundred grams extra. It's great for polishing out things like windshield wiper marks on your car's windshield, removing smaller scratches and haze on a marble countertop, chrome details on vehicles and such things (where less hard abrasives like Aluminium oxide and such hardly touches the surface).
Awesome! You have a good surface to use now. I really liked the quick pace and solid explanation. One of the hardest things to do as you have already seen im sure is the hardness of your laps. The grit just slides around not really embedding. Awesome job for sure
Almost as flat as this prairie I live on, ha ha. Great video Paul, I made a utility one with glass plate and plywood. I guess I should check it some tie, thanks for the show of your three legged comparator, deviously elegant, cheers!
Well explained and well done. Unless you're building gyroscopes for the next Mars mission, your surface plate will serve for the average job. Nice video.
Another amazing video as ever Paul. You should consider doing a weekly video like doubleboost Sunday night cap. Just to go over current projects,viewer mail ect. I enjoy your videos, production quality and jokes are always of highest quality.
Thanks for that, I am unable to do weekly videos because, for me to get 1 minute of youtube video can take unto 5 hours of recording... I've only got a toy camera!!!
@@Thesheddweller Is the issue the size of the sd cards you use? I have some larger capacity sd cards i can send you for free if they are of use to you?
@@thomaswilliams Nah.. I currently have 300 odd Gb of sd memory, and I store everything on my computer hard drive as soon as I can. The truth is a bit more personal than that and it only allows me a little time to spend in the workshop. thanks for your very kind offer though.
Just as I suspected, a lot of work. Many of us were hoping that a grade 'B' surface plate could be had by picking up cut-offs from the local granite countertop shop, and spending an hour prepping it - Ha! Thanks for clearing this up :-)
A video about optical flats stated that the grooves in lapping plates are there to allow air between the 2 surfaces. Otherwise they may bind so hard, it's impossible to separate them without damage.
Hi. Yes that’s true but, my DIY lapping plates are really for cleaning old and dirty metal that’s been given to me. I don’t like having muck and dust flying around the workshop that I get using the linisher or rotary wire brush. Cheers
4:30 the channels are not for catching the abrasive. They are to prevent a wave of abrasive slurry from building up in front of item being lapped and rounding the front edge of the item being lapped.
Hi, yes that is true but, I think the liquid and abrasive material can also sucked out of the grooves as the plates passover each other, don’t you think?, cheers.
I just discovered your channel due to the UA-cam algorithm putting it up as a suggestion. Both thumbs up sir. The first video was your Two Chucks video. My first thought was 'this is going to be a train wreck'. And I'm glad it wasn't. There are things I see people doing in home shops that make me gringe but not you good sir.
One thought. Would sink cutout from solid granite countertops bonded together work as well. I've also wondered about the suitability of quartz countertop cutouts. Another UAE for them could be as the actual mounting surface used for a small benchtop milling machine. Bolting a mill to a wooden bench in my mind can lead to all sorts of alignment issues due to the wood expanding and contracting due to temperature and humidity iseues.
I would recon anything with weight and mass would be ok for a base support on a home made plate, but I wouldn’t go trying to get it calibrated. if the bonding agent sticks. Humidity in my workshop is kept below 60% and all my biggest machines are sat directly on steel or cast pedestals then on to a wooden floor supported by concrete bracing.
Because I’m thinking of using a solid piece of granite, which would be more durable than marble. My biggest fear is that granite and marble tiles would be too brittle. I’ve got access to granite slabs at least 2” thick, which in turn I can also use for doing leather work.
Non versare la polvere abrasiva sul piano, crei dei solchi profondi nella direzione della prima passata. Conviene mescolare la polvere con l'acqua e distribuire la pappetta in modo uniforme con un pennello. Non fare mai seccare l'abrasivo, si creano sfrisi, conviene usare al posto dell'acqua della kerosene o del petrolio. Il piano sotto tende sempre a diventare convesso, quello sopra concavo, la differenza fra le due curvature è pari allo spessore dell'ultima grana usata. il sistema di misura è corretto, solo che ti dovrai mappare la superficie per pinti discreti, pari all'altezza del triangolo di base ( le tre palline). ottimo lavoro
Thanks, nice vid. I'm familiar with the three-plate process, I'm currently making a set of cast iron lapping plates to Tom Lipton's design. I bought a granite surface plate, wasn't expensive. Graphite? I use mink oil. Not sure how they get the oil from the mink, don't think the mink are harmed...
Hi Silvio, there are more skilled surface plate videos out there than my offering, I would suggest watching them also. the thicker the stone the more stable the material.
🟢 Friend! I don't have a very thick stone (100mm). I have a lot of 20mm stones. I intend to "work" 3 large diameter stones (1000mm X 1000mm). I think 20mm is too unstable for a big rock like that. Can I glue several stones to get a more stable thickness? I chose a harder black stone in my region of Brazil. I also thought of making ribs in the shape of honeycombs between a sandwich of two 20mm stones. I'm building a universal milling machine, the stones would be to "right" the flatness of the dovetail guides and the coordinate table.
Hi, I’m not an expert on surface plates as I pointed out in my video. However, one thing I do know is that the thickness of the plate is relative to the size of the surface plate. Not being an expert, I would expect a 1000mm square plate to be at least 100mm thick minimum. I would also expect that to maintain best stability, it would have to be in one piece, at the very least all made of the same material and the bonding agent to be as thin as possible. Temperature and humidity play a big role in the stability of of surface plates so the fewer variables in its construction the more stable the material. Sorry I can’t be of any more help. Regards.
Hi, it is true that is why I only use it for marking out. I have used it for gauging stuff before now but, that was before I had my cast iron surface plate, that warps if you walk past it but it is more accurate than the surface plate I made.. cheers
It produces parabolic curved surface. Take two laser pointers and arrange them parallel with perpendicular to surface and observe reflected laser beams.
I'll subscribe but no bell. If you put out a video while I am on my phone I will look at the notification and swiftly swipe it away, ND forget later to look at your video.
@@Thesheddweller There's nothing to stop you verifying your own plate if you can get your hands on a 0.02 or so machinist's level. You could use teh results of that to do localised honing on your plate to move it up a few grades pretty quickly. My plate was made from a piece of granite kerbstone, by localised honing only, which is a much longer process than the 3 plate method.
@@Thesheddweller I've linked the software I developed for mapping my surface plate on (IIRC) the second of my videos about it. It's jvascript, should run anyhere a reasonably modern browser will.
@@guliwer1713 Мне очень жаль, что вопрос, который вы задали, выглядит странным при использовании моего переводчика. поэтому примите мои извинения, если это выглядит неправильно. Поверхностный датчик (репетометр) работал, как и следовало ожидать, учитывая, что это бодж. С уважением.
@@Thesheddweller переводчики они такие .... х**** поймешь че напереводят .... what else did you use to measure the Surface Plate какие еще вы использовали приборы для измерения (ru) what other measuring instruments have you used Surface Plate (en)
@@Thesheddweller I made (I think) a unique surface plate. The concrete plate was not tool-friendly, so I used epoxy and fine aluminum oxide abrasive powder slurry to coat the concrete. I used a paint roller to apply several coats, sanding each coat. It leaves a finish that looks "hand-scraped", and ground steel tools just glide over it. Couldn't be happier. Thanks for your inspiration!
That was a LOT of effort. I wonder if there wasn't some way to move the plate around with a motor or something. I had a fuel tank that was rusted on the inside and I tied 4 cords to the corners and then hung it like a flower pot, poured in some tumbling media and some liquid, used a motor with a crank and tied to the side. Let it run and tilted it occasionally to get the top and corners. It looked great. I wish I had coated it inside with sealer because I looked inside the other day and it really needs it again. sigh. This was a good video and you explained everything really well. A definite thumbs up from me. I'll think surface plate every time I see a large piece of tile now.
😀Great Video Paul, you obviously have a lot of professional experience which is sadly being lost, I think you could easily increase your following showing such tips and techniques like the three point DTM .
If you want a large plate, try your local architectural stonemason. I got a 42 x 30 x4 inch rose granite redundant gravestone. I had to obliterate all inscription from the front, which is now the underside. total cost - a bottle of whisky wrapped in a photo as proof of the obliterated plate. I was unable to detect daylight using a good rabone straight edge so for the sort of things I do, that is close enough. God alone knows how it would fare under high tech measuring devices - not too well methinks
you cut diamonds into the surface to 'collect and redistribute' the abrasive. lapped your "B" & "C" plates (diamond side) together. then proceeded to NOT use that side to lap plate "A"?? what was the point of that work, then, just to use the non-lapped marble side on your surface plate!? you wanted flat bottoms?? what am i missing?
Hi. I’m sorry for the confusion, the video was made to explain how I made my marking out surface plate to those viewers that asked me how I made mine. Using the two marble faces wasn’t a good example I admit but I had explained in the video that I used the other two identical surface plates in the garden…well my wife did actually, anyway I needed a couple of lapping plates to rub muck off some of the metal I often get given. Sand and water or oil can shift a lot of muck and rust saving sanding belts on the linisher and preventing clouds of dust and muck being thrown around the workshop. The marble side was used to show how I made the original plate. It’s not accurate but it’s brilliant for marking stuff out. My surface plate has a deviation of 0.001” good enough for marking out. Cheers
true, but they should be 3 plates with the same constant curvature, which is impossible. That's why 3 plates are used. If you use only 2, it may happen that you generate a curve (one plate becomes concave, while the other becomes convex, complementing each other) But it is almost impossible with the interaction of 3 plates, with the turns and rotation of the elements, you can get a curved surface, since the 3rd plate should exactly complement the curved shape of your 2nd plate, which in statistical terms it is almost impossible, even more so if you consider that the 1st plate would have the opposite curve. That does not happen. A "rapidometer" makes comparative measurements, it measures the difference between one point and another, it does not give an absolute value of inclination as a collimator might do (which measures angles).
There's a cost / benefit equation in there, and if you want a verified accurate plate right now, sure, that's the way to go. However, if you're interested in the process, have exotic needs, or just plain don't have the money to buy a new (or even old) plate - as Paul says, they aren't anywhere near as cheap over here in Yurp - there's a lot of benefit to be had from rolling your own.
sorry, but is piece, sorry 3 pieces of stone : too thin + glue + pies pumice +glue + thin piece granite - all have different temperature expansion (especially glue) & hogging under pressure . better, or correctly do that with 10 sm or more granite (not all, need hard, better diabaz or gabro). IMHO. process correct
Hi, I agree, but I don’t know anyone who can boast having any equipment to measure the error, let alone constantly control temperature of their machine shop environment. regards.
Im sorry to hear that. Your knowledge on surface plates is surely far greater than mine but, I do say I’m not trying to teach anyone how to do stuff, I merely show people what I go through to to achieve my goal. regards
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Gosh, you must have read my mind from across the ocean!
Thanks for this.
It's across :The Pond: 👍
Hi, glad to be of service. ATB
Thank you sir, for your clear, well edited, awesomely narrated videos. All of them!
Hi, thanks, i’m affraid that I fall asleep watching them now… must be an age thing. LOL..
Thank you for the detailed video. I'm just beginning my hobby machine shop but a surface place was out of the budget. Untill now
Very good video :) In stead of diamond powder or paste, you can also use Cerium oxide.... It's available as a powder in many different grit sizes, and it's 90% as fast/effective as "real" diamond abrasives. And since it's so much cheaper, get a few hundred grams extra. It's great for polishing out things like windshield wiper marks on your car's windshield, removing smaller scratches and haze on a marble countertop, chrome details on vehicles and such things (where less hard abrasives like Aluminium oxide and such hardly touches the surface).
Hi, thats a good tip. thanks.
Thank You very much for this, I'm positive I will buy a plate. I don't have your patience or skill. But I do appreciate both in you.
Awesome! You have a good surface to use now. I really liked the quick pace and solid explanation. One of the hardest things to do as you have already seen im sure is the hardness of your laps. The grit just slides around not really embedding. Awesome job for sure
Almost Machining Hi, thank you, thanks for watching.
Almost as flat as this prairie I live on, ha ha. Great video Paul, I made a utility one with glass plate and plywood. I guess I should check it some tie, thanks for the show of your three legged comparator, deviously elegant, cheers!
Hi, thanks for viewing, regards
Well explained and well done. Unless you're building gyroscopes for the next Mars mission, your surface plate will serve for the average job. Nice video.
With enough patience the Withworth 3 plate method will produce top quality plates even in home shop.
Another amazing video as ever Paul. You should consider doing a weekly video like doubleboost Sunday night cap. Just to go over current projects,viewer mail ect. I enjoy your videos, production quality and jokes are always of highest quality.
Thanks for that, I am unable to do weekly videos because, for me to get 1 minute of youtube video can take unto 5 hours of recording... I've only got a toy camera!!!
@@Thesheddweller Is the issue the size of the sd cards you use? I have some larger capacity sd cards i can send you for free if they are of use to you?
@@thomaswilliams Nah.. I currently have 300 odd Gb of sd memory, and I store everything on my computer hard drive as soon as I can. The truth is a bit more personal than that and it only allows me a little time to spend in the workshop. thanks for your very kind offer though.
I just found your channel and appreciate the video on surface plates. Subscribed and liked.
Hi, thank you. Cheers.
Just as I suspected, a lot of work. Many of us were hoping that a grade 'B' surface plate could be had by picking up cut-offs from the local granite countertop shop, and spending an hour prepping it - Ha!
Thanks for clearing this up :-)
You’re welcome, Thanks for watching.
А класс Б это сколько нулей ? ( В СССР были плиты 3, 2, 1, 0, 00, 000 класса)
A video about optical flats stated that the grooves in lapping plates are there to allow air between the 2 surfaces. Otherwise they may bind so hard, it's impossible to separate them without damage.
Hi. Yes that’s true but, my DIY lapping plates are really for cleaning old and dirty metal that’s been given to me. I don’t like having muck and dust flying around the workshop that I get using the linisher or rotary wire brush. Cheers
Hello Paul,
Thank you for making this video... It is really helpful...
Take care
Paul,,
Cheers mate.
4:30 the channels are not for catching the abrasive. They are to prevent a wave of abrasive slurry from building up in front of item being lapped and rounding the front edge of the item being lapped.
Hi, yes that is true but, I think the liquid and abrasive material can also sucked out of the grooves as the plates passover each other, don’t you think?, cheers.
Very nice and happier new year!
Hi, thank you. Happy new year to you and everyone.
I just discovered your channel due to the UA-cam algorithm putting it up as a suggestion. Both thumbs up sir. The first video was your Two Chucks video. My first thought was 'this is going to be a train wreck'. And I'm glad it wasn't. There are things I see people doing in home shops that make me gringe but not you good sir.
Hi, thanks for your kind comments, thanks for watching.
nice work, these DIY surface Plate is good enough for home engineering, thanks for shear
Skillful Man hi, thank you, thanks for watching.
ad least you win an award for being honest, I did like the movie and dit learn from it
Simply outstanding!👍👍👍👍👍
Hi, thanks, glad you’re happy with the content. :-D
graphite can turn stodgy and build up in areas make sure to clean it off regularly
I have a 3 foot square of what passes for a stone counter to. I should cut it into 3 equal size pieces and do the same with it.
Thanks
Wow, nice, have fun.
One thought. Would sink cutout from solid granite countertops bonded together work as well. I've also wondered about the suitability of quartz countertop cutouts. Another UAE for them could be as the actual mounting surface used for a small benchtop milling machine. Bolting a mill to a wooden bench in my mind can lead to all sorts of alignment issues due to the wood expanding and contracting due to temperature and humidity iseues.
I would recon anything with weight and mass would be ok for a base support on a home made plate, but I wouldn’t go trying to get it calibrated. if the bonding agent sticks. Humidity in my workshop is kept below 60% and all my biggest machines are sat directly on steel or cast pedestals then on to a wooden floor supported by concrete bracing.
@@Thesheddweller Thank you for this channel and the discussions y'all are having. The passion is felt. I'm a casual, but excited to learn more!
@@mturallo Hi, thanks for your comments
Youre a genius, thank you so much for this idea.
Thank you Sir. Liked,shared. All my very best.
Hi, thanks. ATB
Would it be easier and quicker using diamond impregnated surface prepping wheels( like a surface grinder/tile saw)?
Because I’m thinking of using a solid piece of granite, which would be more durable than marble. My biggest fear is that granite and marble tiles would be too brittle. I’ve got access to granite slabs at least 2” thick, which in turn I can also use for doing leather work.
if you have a precise surface grinder it should be
Non versare la polvere abrasiva sul piano, crei dei solchi profondi nella direzione della prima passata.
Conviene mescolare la polvere con l'acqua e distribuire la pappetta in modo uniforme con un pennello.
Non fare mai seccare l'abrasivo, si creano sfrisi, conviene usare al posto dell'acqua della kerosene o del petrolio.
Il piano sotto tende sempre a diventare convesso, quello sopra concavo, la differenza fra le due curvature è pari allo spessore dell'ultima grana usata. il sistema di misura è corretto, solo che ti dovrai mappare la superficie per pinti discreti, pari all'altezza del triangolo di base ( le tre palline). ottimo lavoro
Ciao, grazie per la visione, grazie per il consiglio, molto apprezzato. Saluti
Gracias por tu video. Es genial.
Hola, gracias, gracias por vernos.
Very interesting process.
Nice work.
I just subscribed to your channel.
Take care, Ed.
Hi thanks. cheers
Thanks, nice vid. I'm familiar with the three-plate process, I'm currently making a set of cast iron lapping plates to Tom Lipton's design. I bought a granite surface plate, wasn't expensive. Graphite? I use mink oil. Not sure how they get the oil from the mink, don't think the mink are harmed...
Hi, thanks for watching. They probably make the mink run like a bugger for an hour or two in an exercise wheel.. :-D
@@Thesheddweller LOL!!! I'm hoping it's the oil they use to stop the mink from squeaking - made *for*, not *from*.
@@fredgenius Well they definitely aren't squeaking anymore. Best not to google it.
Impressive! Thank you.
Noneof Above Hi, thanks for watching
Amazing process
Hi, thank you, I’m glad you enjoyed.
Friend, I'm from Brazil, I would love to learn how to do this job. Can I rub three stones together? A+B+C. Can the stone be 30mm thick?
Hi Silvio, there are more skilled surface plate videos out there than my offering, I would suggest watching them also. the thicker the stone the more stable the material.
Да
Да
🟢 Friend! I don't have a very thick stone (100mm). I have a lot of 20mm stones.
I intend to "work" 3 large diameter stones (1000mm X 1000mm). I think 20mm is too unstable for a big rock like that.
Can I glue several stones to get a more stable thickness?
I chose a harder black stone in my region of Brazil.
I also thought of making ribs in the shape of honeycombs between a sandwich of two 20mm stones.
I'm building a universal milling machine, the stones would be to "right" the flatness of the dovetail guides and the coordinate table.
Hi, I’m not an expert on surface plates as I pointed out in my video. However, one thing I do know is that the thickness of the plate is relative to the size of the surface plate. Not being an expert, I would expect a 1000mm square plate to be at least 100mm thick minimum. I would also expect that to maintain best stability, it would have to be in one piece, at the very least all made of the same material and the bonding agent to be as thin as possible. Temperature and humidity play a big role in the stability of of surface plates so the fewer variables in its construction the more stable the material.
Sorry I can’t be of any more help.
Regards.
@@Thesheddweller Gratitude friend!
@@silvionovais2504 You are very welcome.
Нет
Ищи целый камень
This is fantastic
Thank you, cheers
This video (of the lapping process) with a voice over by Bob Ross would be very relaxing.
Got exact same thing for my plate too. I didn’t lap it but I think I will now
great, have fun. cheers
Did David Attenborough become a machinist?
Hi, No… he gave up cos the tea mug was dirty.
Thanks for the good video.
Hans Hi, you're welcome, thanks for watching
I love surface plate content even though I live in an apartment and haven’t even got a hint of a shop 🤣
Hi, I knew a bloke who made very special clocks in his cupboard using a small lathe, mill and one or two fold out benches and vices
Layers of two different material means different expansion rates so through time your plate may become curvy.
Hi, it is true that is why I only use it for marking out. I have used it for gauging stuff before now but, that was before I had my cast iron surface plate, that warps if you walk past it but it is more accurate than the surface plate I made.. cheers
It produces parabolic curved surface. Take two laser pointers and arrange them parallel with perpendicular to surface and observe reflected laser beams.
crikey, lasers... I've only just got used to using a simple rule...Cheers
Great bro
Hi, thanks.
I'll subscribe but no bell. If you put out a video while I am on my phone I will look at the notification and swiftly swipe it away, ND forget later to look at your video.
Hey, thanks for subscribing, cheers.
dont you need 3 seperate plates to ensure its flat?
Yes
Good enough for workshop. But not super flat.
Hi, I know. I have a cast plate now for my workshop, but I have to get it verified before I can use it.
@@Thesheddweller There's nothing to stop you verifying your own plate if you can get your hands on a 0.02 or so machinist's level. You could use teh results of that to do localised honing on your plate to move it up a few grades pretty quickly.
My plate was made from a piece of granite kerbstone, by localised honing only, which is a much longer process than the 3 plate method.
@@wibblywobblyidiotvision thats worth looking into, when I get some time I’ll look into that. cheers.
@@Thesheddweller I've linked the software I developed for mapping my surface plate on (IIRC) the second of my videos about it. It's jvascript, should run anyhere a reasonably modern browser will.
в кружку абразива не насыпал ?
Привет, Моей кружке всегда удается собрать какой-то осадок, но не в этот раз. Ура.
@@Thesheddweller кроме индикатора (репитометра) как то еще плиту поверяли, (проверяли) смотрели ?
@@guliwer1713 Мне очень жаль, что вопрос, который вы задали, выглядит странным при использовании моего переводчика. поэтому примите мои извинения, если это выглядит неправильно. Поверхностный датчик (репетометр) работал, как и следовало ожидать, учитывая, что это бодж. С уважением.
@@Thesheddweller переводчики они такие .... х**** поймешь че напереводят ....
what else did you use to measure the Surface Plate
какие еще вы использовали приборы для измерения (ru)
what other measuring instruments have you used Surface Plate (en)
Great vid!
Stevo Smiff Hi, thanks for watching.
Made a 16x24 and got it down to .002. Not good for machinist work, but plenty good for woodworking tools and jigs, and metal fabbing.
Hi, thats what I like to see… someone having a go, good on you.
@@Thesheddweller I made (I think) a unique surface plate. The concrete plate was not tool-friendly, so I used epoxy and fine aluminum oxide abrasive powder slurry to coat the concrete. I used a paint roller to apply several coats, sanding each coat. It leaves a finish that looks "hand-scraped", and ground steel tools just glide over it. Couldn't be happier. Thanks for your inspiration!
Hi, thats also good enough for making out purposes. regards
That was a LOT of effort. I wonder if there wasn't some way to move the plate around with a motor or something. I had a fuel tank that was rusted on the inside and I tied 4 cords to the corners and then hung it like a flower pot, poured in some tumbling media and some liquid, used a motor with a crank and tied to the side. Let it run and tilted it occasionally to get the top and corners. It looked great. I wish I had coated it inside with sealer because I looked inside the other day and it really needs it again. sigh. This was a good video and you explained everything really well. A definite thumbs up from me. I'll think surface plate every time I see a large piece of tile now.
Darn. I thought those tiles were flatter than that. But they work for me.
Hi, thanks for watching. I still use mine for marking out stuff… Cheers
Need a level or autocollimator for check true the flatness.Using a base/indicator is no the best for check thwt
Hi. yes,.. you're right, but I don't have one...
Thats why I Gave it a (Class 'E'.. Maybe) but its more than good enough for marking out. Cheers
😀Great Video Paul, you obviously have a lot of professional experience which is sadly being lost, I think you could easily increase your following showing such tips and techniques like the three point DTM .
Hi, thanks for your comments, I've only got so many heartbeats left before I get put out to pasture, and I've already got so much to do. cheers.
Gostei do seu video
Obrigado, lembraças.
I like the coffee
Hi, So did I.
At least you wound up with a ClassEy Surface Plate... ;)
Hi, it couldn't be any worse, could it.
I'm more curious to learn how the hell you broke one corner of your smart watch????
Hi, I was removing a wheel from one of my motorbikes, a stubborn bolt gave way unexpectedly. the watch hit a solid part of the bike frame. Cheers
Oh good. I can actually make these.
If you want a large plate, try your local architectural stonemason. I got a 42 x 30 x4 inch rose granite redundant gravestone. I had to obliterate all inscription from the front, which is now the underside. total cost - a bottle of whisky wrapped in a photo as proof of the obliterated plate. I was unable to detect daylight using a good rabone straight edge so for the sort of things I do, that is close enough. God alone knows how it would fare under high tech measuring devices - not too well methinks
you cut diamonds into the surface to 'collect and redistribute' the abrasive. lapped your "B" & "C" plates (diamond side) together. then proceeded to NOT use that side to lap plate "A"?? what was the point of that work, then, just to use the non-lapped marble side on your surface plate!? you wanted flat bottoms?? what am i missing?
Hi. I’m sorry for the confusion, the video was made to explain how I made my marking out surface plate to those viewers that asked me how I made mine. Using the two marble faces wasn’t a good example I admit but I had explained in the video that I used the other two identical surface plates in the garden…well my wife did actually, anyway I needed a couple of lapping plates to rub muck off some of the metal I often get given. Sand and water or oil can shift a lot of muck and rust saving sanding belts on the linisher and preventing clouds of dust and muck being thrown around the workshop. The marble side was used to show how I made the original plate. It’s not accurate but it’s brilliant for marking stuff out. My surface plate has a deviation of 0.001” good enough for marking out. Cheers
I don’t think your measuring tool can prove that it is a flat surface, because it may also be a spherical surface with a small curvature.
Quite right. That's why I won’t use it for anything other than marking out. As a marking out table it’s more than adequate. Cheers.
true, but they should be 3 plates with the same constant curvature, which is impossible.
That's why 3 plates are used. If you use only 2, it may happen that you generate a curve (one plate becomes concave, while the other becomes convex, complementing each other) But it is almost impossible with the interaction of 3 plates, with the turns and rotation of the elements, you can get a curved surface, since the 3rd plate should exactly complement the curved shape of your 2nd plate, which in statistical terms it is almost impossible, even more so if you consider that the 1st plate would have the opposite curve. That does not happen.
A "rapidometer" makes comparative measurements, it measures the difference between one point and another, it does not give an absolute value of inclination as a collimator might do (which measures angles).
I would rather pay 300 for a Starett of the same size
Hi, they aren’t that cheap here in the UK. US to UK customs charges and delivery puts almost 50% on top.
There's a cost / benefit equation in there, and if you want a verified accurate plate right now, sure, that's the way to go. However, if you're interested in the process, have exotic needs, or just plain don't have the money to buy a new (or even old) plate - as Paul says, they aren't anywhere near as cheap over here in Yurp - there's a lot of benefit to be had from rolling your own.
Accuracy class mayb'E'.😂😂😂
Well… I’m not qualified to certify it. regards
But the class of the shed dweller himself is undeniably AAA, class act all around. Good work shed dweller, i like your style.
sorry, but is piece, sorry 3 pieces of stone : too thin + glue + pies pumice +glue + thin piece granite - all have different temperature expansion (especially glue) & hogging under pressure . better, or correctly do that with 10 sm or more granite (not all, need hard, better diabaz or gabro). IMHO. process correct
Hi, I agree, but I don’t know anyone who can boast having any equipment to measure the error, let alone constantly control temperature of their machine shop environment. regards.
Didn’t learn anything from this video. Should be class “G”. (“G” for garbage lmao).
Im sorry to hear that.
Your knowledge on surface plates is surely far greater than mine but, I do say I’m not trying to teach anyone how to do stuff, I merely show people what I go through to to achieve my goal. regards
@@walterdove8727 cheers