10 THINGS THE SEWING PATTERN DOESN’T TELL YOU! And you have to learn about sewing yourself!
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- Опубліковано 15 чер 2024
- There are many things the pattern assumes you know already.... but as a beginner at sewing, YOU DON'T! Let me show the top 10 things I found that the sewing pattern does not tell you!
It's how to read a pattern but a little bit different!
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If you have another one I missed, leave me a comment! Which one of these do you relate to the most?? 😅 ( or should I say caused you the most grief!)
If you're ready to take your sewing to the next level, join me at Vintage Sewing School www.vintagesewingschool.com/
Would like newbies to learn how to prepare fabric before seeing. Would like to see a video on how to choose correct pattern size.
Pre-washing the uncut yardage. Edit to add in remove the pins before the hit the machine. And when they say don't pin on the pattern... it's for a good reason lol. Use clips so permanent holes aren't left behind.
I wish I had a mannquin or "dress form" (I don't wear dresses). I have seen videos about how to make your own form out of duct tape and plastic wrap. Do those work?
@@purplealice I don't know but I do have a Craftsy/Blueprint class showing how to pad out a dress form to our own size. I have done this and I must say, it is daunting to see what your shape actually is! A duct tape form would work well as long as it is stuffed carefully so as not to alter the shape and you would need to put it on a stand of some sort. Could become expensive. I bought a cheapish dress form smaller than my size to pad out and it is very useful. It is a pity that Craftsy/Blueprint are closing and you can't buy any more classes though if you have a subscription you can still watch all the classes. I am worried about my own classes I've bought whether I can still watch them when they close altogether. Sorry! Rambling again!
@@Vampkiki Yes! Pre-washing is so important. And also to dry them the same way you'd later dry your clothes, too.
Keep your unpicker nearby. There is no shame in frog-sewing ("rippit, rippit, rippit").
That is so funny! I love it, and I've said it MANY times in my years of sewing.
@Elizabeth Day i have never heard it call frogging.. I love it..
OMG - I laughed SO hard!! That is GOLD. And sadly true - not a single garment goes without me frogging!!! LOL
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Have I even sewn something if I haven't frogged part of it?
Another thing not mentioned: Sew matching seams in a garment in the same direction. For example, if you sew the side seam on the right from the armpit down to the hem, make sure the left side seam is ALSO sewn from the armpit down, and with the same side of the fabric facing up (so the bobbin thread of both seams is on the same side for both). If you just go whatever way is most convenient for getting it through the machine (and sometimes it can be difficult if matching seam direction results in a bunch of fabric wadded up between the machine body and the needle), the tension from the way the machine feeds the fabric through or the texture/tension differences between the top/bobbin side of the stitching can cause the fabric, the seams or the seam allowance to lay, behave or pull differently on different sides.
How do you do that? I have a vintage 501a and it only has the 5/8 marking on the right side of the foot. So if I sew both sides with the bobbin thread on bottom, one will be sewed bottom to top. How do you solve this?
@@marthashaffer8295 Two options: You could just mark the sewing line on your fabric, and don't worry about using a guide. Alternately, you can mark your seam allowance on the other side of your presser foot using regular or foam tape or a length of craft magnet to act as a guide (for removable options) or even paint it in for something more permanent. In a pinch, a thick rubber band can be stretched around the bed of the machine at the right distance to use as a guide - just make sure it's on straight and even.
@@marthashaffer8295 lay a piece of tape to the left of your needle
I've been sewing for 26 years and I realized there was a difference in doing this but didn't know why. Thanks for explaining why.
I finally understand every H&M shirt.
Another tip for beginners: Don't cut up the original pattern tissue to use. Trace your size onto tracing paper with all the markings & work from that. This way you always have the original pattern intact to refer back to if alterations are needed. This is very helpful when making complex historical clothes too.
Also so you can use the other sizes
@@umuk123 as a beginner I always thought I had to save all the sizes. Now I dont bother. If someone wants me to make them something they can buy the pattern. But I haven’t made anything for anyone else with my patterns.
What kind of tracing paper
I use the big sheets of Strathmore. You can get it at Micheals. You can tape them together if need be.
@@victoriouslearners290 18 inch or 24 inch wide tracing paper (comes on a roll), find at craft stores (Michael's or JoAnn) or art supply stores. The rolls come in a pale yellow or white. I mark with a fine tip Sharpie. Make sure you transfer all the markings and if doing a multi-size pattern, note which size you're tracing. The tracing paper is a bit more stiff than pattern tissue, but much sturdier.
Don’t think I’ve ever seen anything that instructs you to press your paper pattern pieces (say that three times fast!). Pressing and ironing pattern pieces ensures you get out those pesky wrinkles to help with accurate fabric cutting.
I think that should be in bold letters on the instructions, too. It is something I have done for a long time now but there was a time when I didn't even think about that. I'm sure there are other people starting out who have no idea what a difference pressing the paper patter pieces makes; and yes, not the easiest thing to say quickly! :D
I agree.
My first step is to cut all my pattern pieces, iron them and fold them with the piece number showing. Then I put them in numerical order back in the packet.
When I go to use the pattern pieces I iron them flat again ready to place on the fabric.
FYI, don't forget to turn off your steam, as it may cause the paper to pucker. Not that I've ever done that, of course. *whistles innocently*
It’s on page one of the Simplicity guide sheets. Not sure if V, B & M do, too.
And iron your fabric! Iron out that 'fold line' so the front of your skirt or bodice doesn't have that tell-tale crease!
My pattern showed a layout with nap. So I took one! 😂 Just kidding.
Good one!😂
🤣🤣
Lady Gray I smiled!
So funny!
I still dont know what this means!
Pattern companies used to have their helpline phone number printed on the instruction sheet. When you encountered instructions you didn't understand, you could just call them and give the helpline assistant the pattern number and a real live person would walk you through it step by step until you understood it. Now that was service!
Yes! What happened to that service? lol
Absolutely!!!!!
That sounds so cool!
the internet 🤓@@senorenapeepers2148
I would love to see a video one day about the best ways to transfer notches, circles, and other markings to your fabric. It probably seems like such a basic, obvious thing but I’m never sure if I’m doing it right!
It's not obvious! 😊 I think this might make a good video!!
@@Evelyn__WoodI would love that! I was taught about things like tailor's tacks, but I think I'm doing them wrong, they just fall out. Actually - one thing I have really learned is how long it all takes, especially when you are a beginner. I used to try to make things the night before, do everything at breakneck speed and ignore the bits I didn't understand. :)
Yes this! This pattern mark transferring takes forever, and chalk trace paper is terrible, the chalk will not transfer over... And it's all so frustrating. I don't want to put holes in my pattern trying to transfer
I like using crayola crayon washable markers. I trace pattern with them and mark important reference points. Washes out easily, especially when using cotton.
If the fabric is stable and you have adequate seam allowance a snip is an easy way to mark notches. Circles are usually within the garment so putting a pin into this point through all fabric pieces and making a dot on the wrong side of each fabric piece is enough. Circles can also be marked by thread tacks.
At 69 and being a man, I am remembering all this stuff that my ex showed me because she made most of her own clothes. Its all coming back. I was fascinated by the whole process. Now I am going to do it. No pressure!
There are many tutorials and lots of friendly helpful people online these days. If you are able to operate UA-cam and other social sites you can find almost anything you need!
Good on ya for wanting to expand your knowledge and your wardrobe!
Lovely to know a man is in the sewing community. Decades ago, it used to be mainly men that sewed. Fishermen sewed sails. I returned to sewing at your age (3 years ago) and love it.
Anne Catherine - I found a blog site with pictures by typing Stay stitching . It's is blog.treasurie.com. Clear and comprehensive. Stay stitching is done immediately after cutting the pattern pieces, 1.5 mm or 1/16 inch inside deadline, with small stitch length 2mm, along the curved lines e.g. neck, arm hole , to prevent distortion through manipulations because curves imply kind of "bias" and bias stretches. Sewing is directional, from the shoulder point next to the neckline to the centre of the neck and then from the other shoulder to the centre of the neck. And from the same shoulder point towards the arm hole seamline down. It is also done on the facings, if any, fornthe same reason. Since it is done very close to the seamline and inside the seam allowance, you don't see it from the outside and you don't need to unpick it .
Good to see another man take up sewing. I started when I was 40 (now 62) and now make my own dress shirts and pants.
@@davidhutchison3343 Do you live in Sydney, Australia?
As a self-taught sewer of 50+ years, it was only recently that I learned to PRESS!! I never pressed until the garment I'd made was finished...can you believe it?! It was quite the revelation (and also an embarrassment!) when working on a sewing project with a friend who is a professional seamstress, she asked me why I hadn't set up my ironing board and iron!! You can teach an old dog new tricks!
When choosing which size to cut, I go to the ‘actual garment measurements’ on the pattern pieces, compare those to clothes I love to wear and then decide which size will be most comfortable.
Brilliant!!!
Thank so much. That will be helpful.
My aunt, a couturière, taught me to go by the shoulder width and make adjustments everywhere else. But the idea of comparing the “ease” to favorite clothing is brilliant.
Yes, and it's driving me crazy that the pattern company is removing this info from the envelope. Some say the done measurement are printed on the pattern, but the store doesn't want me to unfold a pattern to see that before i buy. They use to give you the bust and hip at least, now it's just the length on many patterns 😠 How much could they be saving on ink with this, it's not worth it imo.
halejuja, thank you so much for this tip. i am gathering info to start my firts patern and this is a golden one
Stitches! I used to be so confused about all the stitches mentioned: baste, stay stitch, under, over, etc.
If you are a thrift shopper or yard sale person, keep your eye out for vintage sewing books. Simplicity has a great sewing book (mine is 1969) that explains everything.
@@user-mv9tt4st9k Thank you, great idea!
My tips for new sewers are:
1. Prewash and iron the fabric before you cut the pattern pieces. You may need to surge the edges first.
2. Iron flat the pattern. Be careful not to singe the paper.
3. Transfer pattern markings (especially the dots) onto the fabric.
What does surge the edges even mean? 😅 Newbie sewer here
Use a serger or overcast stitch on the raw edge of each pattern piece so the seams don't ravel.
So how are you transferring the darts and dots ect to the material
I used to firmly believe that pattern directions were written by monsters who purposely wrote them to confuse the reader. I was a child when I started sewing, but I still sometimes fling the directions across the room and curse them. 😂
One great tip I learned regarding sewing directions was to only read one sentence at a time. Don’t try to read the entire instruction because it would include many steps. If you take it one step at a time and just complete that one step/sentence it might be easier. Good luck and happy sewing.
@@D5.com23 Geat tip! Sometimes one sentence fragment at a time! 😂
I think the pattern makers layout a perfectly understandable, easy to follow, step by step set of instructions and then throw out 2 out of every 3 steps to save paper.
They're so...weird! Why are they so bad? I don't find recipes anywhere near as difficult to follow, you'd think you could write patterns so they were better. Maybe it's because cooking vocabulary is more commonly known than sewing vocab so when you start you're not usually coming from a baseline of zero
@@FranktheDachshund It definitely seems like that sometimes!
Fit before you finish! Soooo important! I made my daughter’s prom dress and she went away on a school trip after I did the initial fitting. When she got back it was about a week until prom and she had gained a bit of weight. Fortunately I hadn’t trimmed the seam allowances and was able to let it out at the hips where it was tight. Then I finished it off. I wish I could put a picture of it here...my proudest accomplishment...she chose a 1930’s gown.
I've been sewing so long (about 60 years off and on) I can't remember when or how I learned some of the basics. Watching your videos has made me realise how lucky I am to have been taught so well when I was at school but I've also realised you're never to old to learn something new. So thank you.
I’ve been sewing a long time also and I have also assumed the sizes on the pattern corresponded to bought clothing sizes. I’ve never had very good fits with my sewing so that probably explains why!
Just like you Rosemary, I've been sewing for about 63 years and was lucky enough to learn from my mother and grandmother. Granny was something else - she could just LOOK at something in a shop window, then go home and re-create it, WITHOUT a pattern. And she did it all on a treadle machine back in the 1930's and 40's.
I made lots of outfits as a teenager and when she was visiting, she always wanted to see my latest "creation". Heaven help me if she examined my (always lined!) skirt and found that the seams weren't finished off and the hem was merely turned under and hand-stitched. Unacceptable! For years, every skirt I made had the side seams and the hem finished off with lace binding, AND, it had to have French tacks between the skirt and the lining! I realize of course, that she was simply teaching me how to make a very nice garment and I'm grateful to her for that. However, in high school whenever Home Ec involved sewing, I was so bored! I'd be half done while everyone else was laying out the pattern and the Home Ec teacher would get annoyed at me. I just wanted to say, "leave me alone so I can do it!" We WERE lucky as I was able to make my own wedding dress, one for my daughter and one for my daughter's best friend at the time. I'm happy to see so many young women (and men!) are now interested in learning.
Sewing at school would have been awesome
@@WinnieFinesse I'm 63 and I was taught sewing in the 6th grade. I wish they would give all students the option of basic sewing classes in school now, even if for just one semester. I think it helps with so many other subjects, like math and how to dress for interviews, purchasing quality garments and basic mending.
I’m 66 now and I remember watching my mum sew. It always intrigued me how easily she made clothes for my sisters. My wife gave up trying to sew about 20 years ago. I’ve been sewing for a while now, and I hate sewing patterns and instructions. I’m a mechanic and a woodworker, but sewing is a challenge on a different level.
Patterns are just that: Patterns. If you want to learn to sew you don't start with a pattern you start with books, videos, and classes. No one ever started to build a house by buying a set of blueprints thinking they have everything you would ever need to know on them. Blueprints are for someone who already has been taught how to build a house, they say how to build this house according to what a builder should already know, not how to build houses in general. Sewing is similar. Sewing is a skill with many tools and you must learn how to sew before you grab a pattern and start sewing. Grab a good book, video, or class that teaches the basics of sewing, part of which is how to read a pattern, and once you've mastered the basic techniques by sewing a few of the things the book, video, or class teach then try to use a pattern. It's the very best to learn from a friend who can answer questions as they come up so find a few groups on social media and join them so you can ask questions. I hope this helps.
This makes so much sense!!
I agree with some of what you stated. But it gets to a point where a year later you're still not sewing a garment. All of this and the comments are good pointers, but people shouldn't be afraid to start with simple patterns and inexpensive materials and go for it.
My mother taught herself to sew in the 70s with no classes, no UA-cam, no books. She was quite good at it. There are also patterns of stuffed animals and home decor that you can practice your skills. I get my patterns on sale for 1.00 to 4.99 a piece so if I mess one up I am not ruining a 14-32 dollar pattern. A lot of these videos can be made in half the time without repeatedly stating how a new seamstress is going to mess up their project. Also repeating other statements over and over. Basically people should do what they are comfortable with and not be intimated into excessive delays. I'll repeat I think the advice is sound about tips and tricks. Just say it and move on. The last thing I disagree with is NOT fitting your first garments. Why would I not fit it? If you don't fit it you just sewed it to toss it. Calling your first attempts "rubbish" garments is in poor taste. There is no reason someone can't construct a simple garment, from a simple pattern, and it be wearable and not a waste of money and materials. I just wanted to get that out there because several of us watched these vids, and read the comments, and agreed with the aforementioned points. Thank you for the tips. It is obvious you are very knowledgeable and skilled
I agree, but if you didn't have a good sewist at home with you with the patience to teach, many of us flailed about in the pre-you-tube days. I was after home ec left schools and before sewing classes were available (pre internet!) and in a small town so people like me attempted to self-teach from a pattern. Nightmare! Now, I try to pass on sewing skills, and my nieces aren't interested. They don't know how lucky they are! Hahaha
Even books of skills were not readily available because it was assumed you learned in the home or weren't interested so they just weren't as available as I find them now! The availability of information, tutorials, and classes now is wonderful!
I don't know how to sew without a pattern. I can't draw, and I can't scale up or down to squared paper or follow instructions 'how to'. Yay for being Neurodivergent. I can only just (after a lot of headaches) put the patterns together.
A lot of the things, like grain line, cutting on fold and sizing, I learned in a home economics class in junior high. It's a real bummer that students going back many years, and forward into today, do not get this basic education.
Now you need to be in a fashion design course to be taught this
i learnt a little from a lady and her mum when she showed me how to make a 14th italian renaissance dress. she was lovely
How about the very first HomeEc class sewing an A-line skirt...sew your side seam 5/8 " from cut edge...LOL, what do you get when the cut edge isn't straight and you take that instruction literally... not that I would know this personally...
I know! I had sewing in careers for 2 years. I got so good at sewing that I took an apron I made from class to class and used it for my final in all classes. Art-silkscreened an ice cream cone, carpentry-made a box with an ice cream on it for my apron, typing-I wrote out directions to make the box, and sewing-sewed the apron.
Cinnamon you are showing your age, they don't call it jr. High anymore lol! I remember my sewing classes in junior high, the teacher hammered up in pressing the pattern and washing and pressing the fabric before you cut it out. I wish I could find another sewing teacher like her.
"In the usual manner" is the bane of my existence when trying to make historical/vintage patterns in an accurate way! What was the usual manner a hundred years ago?!
Also, I mostly don't use patterns because my neurodivergence means I struggle to understand how to do things if I don't have the big picture of why I am doing them; and patterns never provide the why! I much prefer watching videos of people making a similar garment to mine (eg Edwardian walking skirts/blouses!) and explaining why they did this or that and what they'd do differently and then drafting my own pattern. Understanding the big picture from the ground up is so much easier for me than blindly following someone else's instructions! Plus, when I look at patterns usually my smallest measurement (back length) is a 6 and my largest (hips) is a size 20, so by the time I've altered that to fit, I may as well have drafted my own pattern anyway!
A big one, that might just be my ADHD and excitability, is making sure to read through fully first. Sounds super obvious now but you'd be surprised
I’ve been sewing for years, I don’t have adhd, and I have major issues trying to study the pattern, it takes me a looong time..damn squirrels interrupt me.
I'm new to sewing and when I read through the pattern before starting I don't really absorb what I'm reading. It is hard to imagine the steps and actually gain any significant insight.
Not surprised. I am known as "The girl who never reads instructions..." Not because I think I know it all, I just might start, then get distracted or be in a hurry, or too eager to get started. ADD and impulsivity. BTW, I am 51, and my ADD is getting worse with age. Too bad I don't have health insurance, or I would go see a Dr. about it.
Some pattern don't even mention to finish the seams, sometimes I forget and even if I'm an advanced sewer it drives me crazy to go back to undo my stuff.
Oh yes, trying to finish a seam later never really works!
aaaahhh yeah I don't think I saw the instruction to finish the seams in any of the patterns I learned on. Didn't even know that's what it was called.
I used a film clip of Myrna Loy walking in a bias cut satin to explain grain and bias cut. I also had 2 satin bridesmaid dresses made by the same pattern: one was straight line cut and the other was bias cut. My volunteer models were astonished by the difference in the feel and look of the "same" dress.
Pattern companies assume that everyone started sewing as a child, with someone who had been sewing for years.
... or were taught to sew, along with other useful life skills like budgeting, basic home maintenance, first aid, change a tyre ...
Even if you did start as a child it doesn't mean you actually learned to do things properly. I mostly sew by intuition, with varied results. My quilts are great! My garments, no so much. lol
In these days of technical advances, I don't see why the pattern companies couldn't put a link in their patterns for beginners, or those not too experienced, to address the points that cannot be added to paper patterns for space reasons. I do not want to encourage using more paper, but a well explained bullet presentation would be very useful along with short and precise videos about each individual aspect. They don't have to be extensive in and of themselves, more like quick examples. Heck - they charge enough for patterns - too much to leave all but the experienced sewers in the dark and ending up with unsatisfactory garments - let alone the expense of wasting fabric and time!
@@cassieoz1702 i wish these exact "useful life skills" you mentioned would be taught in school.. Like, I know what a logarithm is, not not really even because I forgot because i never need it, but nobody ever taught us all the important things. I always get the answer "you just learn it by living, or from your parents", but not everybody has good parents and why not prevent problems by teaching rather than expecting them to somehow figure it out, probably after they're already in debt or have really unhealthy habits? Why not prepare kids for life, at least a little bit, like let ONE subject be about life managing and every-day skills.. And most importantly: What is consent, how to defend yourself, what are boundaries... If you put 30 kids into a room, you NEED to at least prepare them for the trauma that kids inflict on each other, and help them prevent it.
I love your channel, I always learn something. One thing I've noticed that is never mentioned on the pattern is the importance of straightening your fabric if it is off grain. This was one of the things my mother and home economics teacher used to emphasize. I know that some fabrics can't be straightened but many can and I haven't seen any videos that address this issue.
The backstitching one is humorously to me bc I used to think I needed to pull the thread and bobbin thread out enough before I began my stitch so that when I was done I could go back and tie the two little strings together by hand several times 😂
Please do a video on matching plaids, one way prints stripes etc.
yes and calculating how much extra fabric to buy when it's a large repeat plaid. The pattern lists yardage to buy and it just has an asterisk that says " buy extra for matching plaids" but how much extra? I know that amount of extra varies with the repeat of the pattern but is there a formula, for example with a 6 inch repeat you need 12 inches extra fabric, or something like that? I do know how to calculate this for draperies and curtains but that's a whole different animal because you use the entire width of the fabric.
lestrange Bodies are extra tricky. I have some silk checkered yardage i picked up in HK from the silk brit expat guy and I have never done anything with it.
Agreed! I second this one
There are other videos on UA-cam explaining this.
Angela Clayton, who has sewing channel, makes a lot of garments with pattern matching. You can get some tips from there. I recommend her sewing through the decades series. Also any of her projects with plaids/stripes.
This was a gigantic help|!
I've been sewing for well over 50 years now, so I've picked these up over time or my grandmother taught them to me in the beginning. It's great to have them listed in one place - one gets careless over time and this was an excellent refresher.
I would add a few to the list, based on personal mistakes through the years.
- Launder the fabric in the hottest water and strongest detergent you'll ever use on the finished garment. If it's going to be tumble dried or pressed with a hot iron, do so. The more the shops assure you it won't shrink or only shrink a tiny bit, the more you'd better plan on the fabric shrinking a lot in the first wash/dry.
- Your fabric may be linen and won't scorch under the hottest iron. The thread? It may well melt, ruining everything if you haven't chosen properly.
- I have a good serger/overcaster. Rarely use it for just one simple garment. I love the the combination stich/overcast on my ancient Nelco Ultra. It's nonsense that one has to serge seams or it isn't 'professional'. Goodness, I still have a few things my mother made up with pinked edges and, later, simple zig-zag edges and they haven't frayed one bit in decades and decades.
- We're always encouraged to use the smallest needle. Yes, well, after over a half-century of machine sewing I can. Beginners? Unless it's a sheer knit, a good, solid denim needle will make life very much easier.
I might be old but I remember when pattern sizes WERE the same as retail clothing sizes (which were pretty much standardised). What I really dont get is WHY people think a pattern will TEACH them to sew!!! Most real recipes don't claim to teach you to cook and also assume prior knowledge and techniques too.
That's not really fair. If you have had basic knowledge and you see a pattern that says "Easy" you can assume that with the ability to follow simple directions you can be successful!
I find ease and/or fitting to my size the most challenging. Matching the pattern size closest to my own body and then making the adjustments can be difficult.
It so frustrating to not know how much ease was added to pattern. Pattern companies should give sawers amount of ease added to the garments parts.
The easiest way is to measure all the pattern pieces for the garment at bust waist and hip, minus all the seam allowances and compare it to your measurements. Don't forget to check that there is enough ease (per your preference) at those points.
I have this problem, mainly because my proportions are a bit weird and none of them fit in the same size 😂 so it gets really hard when adjusting!
Most of the pattern companies write how much ease they use, but it is on the pattern and not on the envelope. What is make me crazy they use so much ease which i don’t think is nesseesary. Im just making a bolero type blazer and the ease is nearly 20cm. I had to go down 2 sizes! I usually try to use muslin first to check the sizes for this purpose.
As a lone sewer in my household, trying it on never helped because when you twist to put the pins in, it all shifts. I got a manequin for a birthday and you adjust it to your own size. So it's like fitting the garment on a friend whose your size. Except now I look at it and think are you really that short, wide etc. Or get a fright when I suddenly see her in a flash. Because of course I dress her up in my clothes
I didn't realize UK and US sizes were different, so when I bought my first pattern in Sweden it was two sizes too small. Good thing I fitted it as I made it, as it was my wedding dress, I caught it in time before it was too late.
This helps me appreciate learning to sew from my Mother, so much! About the testing...we always saved scraps after the garment was cut out, to use for testing. And, never sew across a seam that hasn't been pressed and finished! Love this! Hugs!
That was great advise!! 😄
Yes, I always test on scraps of the fabric before I sew the garment. It was one of the first things my mother, who loved sewing but hated dress making, taught me! She preferred Curtains and loose covers. I was always in wonder at how she cut and pinned the fabric straight onto the settee or chair usually in hotels, added ease then brought it home to sew up! They always fitted perfectly. I'm afraid that seems to be a skill lost these days.
My school sewing teacher taught us to not start until we 'prepared' the fabric. Iron if necessary and pull the threads at both ends as sometimes they are not cut straight. Fold and pin the edges together.
Neroli Raff , good advice. I stumbled across a tutorial on how to work with that fabric right out of Satan’s attic: chiffon. When the instructor started pulling a thread, I was like, Whuh? Oooooh! Now I get it.
@@lunasmum6869 My mother could do that too! I remember her recovering this one couch we had at least a couple of times. Back then, when you went to buy fabric, the people that worked there were knowladgable enough to give great estimates on how much you needed for the body of the couch, and how much you needed to make the piping that was added at the seams. It always came out so perfect, and she always had plenty of fabric!
Your idea of doing a mock first saved me much grief and applies to more than garments. I was trying to make an easy slipcover (but just covering the top and sides and front, not the unseen back) for the huge cushion on my sofa. I thought it would be simple. Well, it wound up taking several versions in newsprint and an old sheet version before I could figure out how to have it wrap around the edges and stay in place. Without your tip, the great upholstery fabric would have been sacrificed and wasted. Your videos are both informative and fun. Thank you!
I just recently realized the importance of stay stitching in the right direction, after 40 plus years of sewing. If you stay stitch in the wrong direction, you can actually make stretching worse. I I think this would be a great topic for a video.
Yes please!
Its when you stitch around the curve before starting so the natural bias of the fabric doesn't have time to warp. The most common thing to s!Tay stitch is the arm hole.
I would love videos on sizes and ease. Thank you for sharing this with us.
I would add to wash/dry/press your material before using it.
Yup definitely preparing the material! Great foundation 🤗
I recently got back into sewing. I know how to sew but the big thing was having to finally accept that I need to measure myself and try to ignore the big number I come up with so that I follow the correct pattern sizing. Of course, there's always the issue of which size to follow, especially if you're not a stock size. I love these videos, Evelyn. I am an Aussie now living in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland (perhaps a show on sewing Harris tweed??).
Omg.. so jealous! umm. tweed. since its a woven fabric in mainly sheep wool I'd suggest a nuggety stitch to keep all the ends from going any where but really, spit-rub the plys on the hem and case them. depends on the object you are making? Ive always wanted to go move out where you are. I am only 950m altitude in the central west nsw which means the usual layers and maybe an arran I've knitted for usefulness. My ancestors were crofters and the crafty trait has befallen me unfortunately. I hope you've got a nice place there and decent heating and or double glazed windows xx
@@jenniferschmitzer299 Actually, I don't find it too difficult to sew tweed fabric. What's really interesting is being in an environment where tweed is still woven on looms in sheds. I am surrounded by sheep which means I have lots of wool to spin! I moved to England from the Gold Coast in 2009 and moved up here to the Isle of Lewis two years ago. And yes, we have double glazed windows which are extra wind-proof because it gets quite blowy.
I learned a great deal about the purpose and placement of stay stitching. One, that you stay stitch from the widest part of the garment inward. I had been just la-la stay stitching here and there until I was taught that stay stitching wide to narrow affects how the fabric behaves. News to me! Also, I just had very good results with a tunic top I made. What I learned is that the seam bumpiness after all was stitched was coming from the stay stitching and that that had to be picked out at the end. All is well!!! Thank you so much. Really enjoying your channel!
Thanks for watching! Yes they don't tell to remove the stay stitching do they!
So, Are you saying you’re supposed to remove stay stitching? For example when you put stay stitching in neck lines? Do you want to remove that before you add a collar?
Hello Evelyn from the Pacific Northwest 🇺🇸
So glad I found u ...i can't sew not yet anyway ...ive been watching as many of yr videos I can in a 8 HR..time frame I love learning ...i bought a new sewing machine at Wal-Mart. It's a simple singer that's what it's called I still haven't even threded it yet ...i will though lol..
Linda Hamilton I just looked at the result. The stay stitching on the curved neckline is necessary to hold the fabric without stretching until you sew, in my case, the interface. I was wondering after sewing why there was some ‘pull’ and bumpiness. It could only be the additional stay stitching. After the seam is sewn, it is not necessary and it actually created a pull on the seam. You have to look at how it is making the seam act. Nice, pressed seam...leave it. Bumpiness?...pick it out.
Evelyn Wood they don’t tell you that stay stitching is a temporary stabilizer and can be removed. But now I know to do that before giving up!
You should have mentioned that pattern sizes correlate to much larger ready-to-wear sizes and the amount of ease built in is usually much more than one normally has in ready to wear.
Amen to this. I'm looking at a Simplicity dress pattern right now for which I'll need to make the size 18 to fit a 32 inch waist and 40 inch bust. That's around a 12-14 at most stores here in Canada. I'd be swimming in a commercial 18. Size is nothing but a number...
Yes! Always take your measurements before you pattern shop and buy to fit them, not by sizing numbers. The variation in sizes and garment ease between companies can be significant too
I think that is main one and also that most are based on a B cup. Explains why many of my early items were too big across the back.
Oh, for sure. That shows the importance of trying on as well. I made a top a while ago sized to my body (primarily bust) measurements according to what the pattern told me, but I tried it as soon as the side seams were sewn and I had to sew a new side seam a full 2 inches inside the original (it was an asymmetrical one-shoulder top, so I got away with only taking in the one seam) to keep from falling out of it.
Thank you for this! Fitting as you go! I do this. I serge all my pieces before they ever get seamed (because seam finishing at the end is a flying pain in the ...) And then I drape all my pieces on the dress dummy before I sew them. I have noticed that SO MANY women follow patterns like a recipe, and only after everything is together do they try it on. I am so glad someone finally said the thing -- TRY IT ON AS YOU GO ALONG! Perhaps you could do a video on what stages to do fittings and what to look for where adjustments will need to be made. Fitting and adjustments alone could be an entire series. But a Do a Fitting Now kind of video would be good.
Those are all great examples as well as what the comments have. There are so many frustrating things about patterns. One that I encountered early in sewing back when I was a teen in the late 80s. ‘Interface appropriately’ ? The pattern assumed that you would pick the appropriate interface for the fabric you had for the waistband and button placket. Thankfully there was a Home Economics teacher at the high school (I was a middle schooler at the time). I introduced myself to her and asked her advice. Needless to say the stiff denim that I picked out wasn’t even appropriate for the pattern I was doing. She happened to have appropriate denim and we traded fabrics. Ah, learning moments. So choosing the right interface for your fabric and choosing the right fabric for the pattern could also be topics. I’m still confused by interface, especially since I do historical (Vikings, Medieval, Renaissance, Regency, Victorian) clothing more than modern or vintage. Thanks as always for the wonderful advice. Hugz
It took me years to figure out what finishing was! I kept seeing it mentioned but I could never figure out what it was. Also seam allowances. There's normally one mention of it unless things changed in the pattern, so I would always be confused why my dresses where too big, but sewing 1/4 seam allowance when it's meant to be 5/8 makes a big difference.
When starting out (and really still) I wish they had the seam allowance in big, bold print! It's usually 5/8 of an inch to my knowledge, but I want to be certain!
Right!! Something so nessassary, but you have to go looking for it!
Hmmmm... The one that used to drive me nuts when I first started as a teenager was wasteband fitting for slacks, crotch sizing and ESPECIALLY the fact MOST patterns are for 5'4"-5'6" (if you're lucky) the reason I started is I was 5'8"since I was 13. Ready to wear was always toooo short and the waist was ALWAYS in the wrong place. But once I figured inseam and waisted band fitting I had the most unique jeans in class. Up until that point I had to shop for jeans in the men's wear department and hack the back of the wasteband up. But the crotch and inseam fit. I used to make the craziest wide leg Bell bottoms...I unpicked the outside leg seam on Levi's and added a triangle Im talking 1970's in a small town.
When I found the distance between my waist to the top of my hip to the bottom of my hip I was lost. I am long in the hip area (small in the waist) which means most garments ride up and bunch down.
Yes, they never seem to cater for longer waists. I always have to lengthen them. My daughter in law is 6 foot tall and really slim so clothes are a real problem for her. I am glad some patterns include different bust cup measurements as that has always been a problem in the past. And, yes, trouser patterns always need so much adjustment. Never long enough and never have enough ease in the seat so, if I don't make alterations, when I sit down, the waist at the back is pulled down and really uncomfortable and embarrassing.
I had the opposite challenge. 5'2' & it was not possible to buy in a store, anything woven that fit.
*So grateful * that my paternal grandmother Mildred taught me so much!
I used to do many alterations!
I tried taking a sewing class years ago with a teacher who wasn't as good as explaining things as you are. Sadly this gave me no real knowledge of sewing, but I don't lack for examples of where I wish there'd been more information for us beginners. :D
So, to your question about patterns, I would say a helpful lesson would be how to pick out a pattern to learn on in the first place. In my case the teacher briefly touched on measurements vs clothing sizes, but otherwise she just gave us a homework assignment to go out and buy something which would fit us. There was no guidance on how to figure out how complicated a pattern was and if we were biting off more than a beginner sewer should attempt to chew.
Likewise we had no guidance on how to figure out if a pattern would work for the vast majority of us who do not have textbook perfect body measurements. (As someone plus size, I felt particularly left in the dark. Did I buy a regular pattern and try to size up? Did I try to seek out a plus size pattern from what at the time were very limited options? What did I do when even the plus sizes didn't match my measurements exactly? Did that mean I could never make my own clothes?)
I'm reminded of that great video you did about the steps one should take when learning how to sew, and what goals one should set for each step. I think something similar with a focus on picking out patterns would be very helpful. For instance, your first clothing pattern should have X qualities to it and by the end you will hopefully have practiced Y skills kind of a thing. Likewise something which would help a beginner understand how to read the measurements on the envelope and determine if they can make the pattern work for them if their own measurements aren't the same.
I agree, my sewing teacher at school was useless but she though she was right and didn't like me because I used the methods my Mum taught me. She was always telling me to rip out perfectly good seams because I hadn't finished them the way she wanted! Of course, I didn't and left them my way. Rebellious student? She thought so.
I know one thing you didn't mention and is not here in the comments. I just learned about the "stretch line" on the edge of some patterns, it shows how much stretch your fabric has to have for the pattern to work. ;)
This term is used when you are making a garment from a knit fabric. You place a small length of the fabric aginst the line withouth stretching it. Then, while holding it at that point you stretch it to the second point on the stretch line. This will tell you if there's enough stretch in your fabric for that pattern. It should also tell you what percentage stretch you have in your fabric which is useful for patterns that ask for a specific percentage of stretch. Hope that's clear and useful.
Not knowing about ease made my first dress an absolute tent lol. Iearned to look at the finished garment measurements on the + markers on the pattern and never looked back
Sewing terrifies me. So I spent the best part of 3 years learning most everything. Now I'm really terrified!
"I need to do that? Crap!"
Evelyn, what a good video. So many of us "ahem, older ones" had home economics during our middle or high school years. Our school had 2 years for girls (boys had shop). At that time, all clothing patterns contained facings to go around raw openings (collarless bodices, bare sleeve dresses and blouses and such. Even collared tops had facing to finish off the inside of the garment. But of course, those were long before the days of "throw away clothing". They wore better, the lasted longer, and in my family, we weren't allowed to sit at the machine until our handwork passed mother's inspection. :-) We were allowed to use pinking shears for cutting out, and only used fancier finishing for special garments. Thank you for this good video. It might be interesting and fun to compare a pattern from today with one of a similar style from the 50's or 60's.
Oh yes, the pinking shears for woven fabrics. How quickly I forgot before tha advent of knits. lol
I can tell you that 50s patterns didn't have big busts or waists. No pop or hormones in the food back then.
How about " it's ok to grade between sizes when you have a multi sized pattern"?
Yes!!!! because we aren't all shaped the same!!!!!
Don't try to do it by cutting between the two lines. For a top, pick the size that fits best at the shoulders and bust. For bottoms, pick the size that fits best at the hip. Cut that size from the paper pattern, then make your alterations deliberately.
Ease is a problem for me. I have made a pattern block and I still don´t really understand how much ease to add to each pattern. Some general guidelines would be nice.
Thanks for the suggestion! I think there is a video there for sure! 😄
Depends on what ease you want. Find a well fitted garment. Please the front then back horizontal. Now measure yourself front and back. The difference is ease you like.
@@suem6004 is it even throughout the pattern or would you have to chect the amount of ease for every section like upper arm, bust, ect? Ive tried adding a half cm to a pattern and it didnt work out quite right
Add the ease to exactly the point where you need. You can usually tell where this needs to be on your muslin and then alter the pattern accordingly.
I would certainly watch a video about ease and where/how/when to adjust. I have to do an FBA on everything, and even after a lot of practice I've yet to be able to do the adjustment and make just a single toile- it's often as many as 3 before I get it right.
So grateful that when I wanted to do a fitted garment, I was directed to *woven gingham plaid* fabrics.
If your desired pattern has fine detailed fitting, choose a tiny gingham.
Looser fits are easier (to me) with a larger scale plaid.
A ¼" gingham makes seeing where adjustments need to be made much easier.
This used to be a standard for teaching/ learning, years ago.
Most people learned by watching someone who knew how to sew & could usually explain the "why" questions that pop up.
Then the student was allowed to be helping, then doing a whole project on their own.
14:00 Sunday 21 June 2020
Prewash fabrics to shrink as much as it will shrink, before cutting. Please.
Expect to lose 10%-20% to shrinkage, for 100% natural fabrics.
Good idea. Better than a test garment in calico.
Haha probably all of them at one time or another! Been sewing 50 plus years but need this refresher bc I stopped sewing and I want to sew again!
I've just started on my sewing journey and so far something I discovered the hard way is: when cutting out a strip of fabric that will become a tie (like a waist band that you tie) do NOT cut it with the selvedge included. It made it much harder to fold the sides in and then in half again to make the tie. Definitely seemed to be a rookie mistake. :-)
I agree! Selvedges are often treated like free hemming, but they do not wash/shrink/wrinkle the same as main fabric does, and I always regret trying to use them as a shortcut.
Professional dressmakers taught us never to include selvage in any part of a garment.
I loved this. You talk about all the things I learned over the years.
I've been watching the Great British Sewing Bee and couldn't believe my ears when one of the contestants said that there is a lot of bodging in sewing.
Miriam King I heard that too, but I don’t think it’s right, I would like to think I’ve never ‘bodged’ anything.
With this COVID19 isolation, I have taken up making face masks for my family and ventured onto casual dresses for myself. Would you kindly show a video on how I can make little alterations for dresses to fit me better. I have made three dresses that were perfect to the pattern yet not well fitted. I keep them in my closet because I have accomplished something yet will probably never wear them due to not fitting properly.iadmire you and your style..you are so well spoken and easy to understand. Thank you.
Can I just say, your accessories and top are soooo much on point in this video! Your hair & outfit remind me of my late auntie who was a super elegant lady in late 1930s-early 40s in Lviv (today Ukraine, then Poland). As a kid I spent a lot of time with her and her sister, loved playing with their jewellery and impressive stash of buttons :) Good to know about the sizes, although I can't say I'm surprised, as a busty and rather petite woman I was fully prepared that I'd have to test and customise anything, even sewing patterns. Seeing how getting tailored clothing that fit me in stores is nearly impossible, it's only logical that pattern would rather cater for standardised body too. But hey, this is what motivated me to get into sewing, so maybe not entirely a bad thing :D All the best, Evelyn!
Absolutely "finish your seams in the usual manner" has driven me nuts! Since I am still learning, I really need suggestions for seam finishes for the garment/fabric I am using. Also testing! I'm pulling up that video now :)
She made a video on seam finishes which is super helpful.
What's funny is the wording choice. "Usual manner." What if my "usual" is to not do it at all? Technically I'd be following the instructions! :D
I'm glad you mentioned fitting garments and I'd love to see a video devoted to that. Making masks has motivated me to start sewing garments again so I've been watching lots of sewing videos on UA-cam. Its pretty shocking that in all the sew-a-long videos I've seen no one has mentioned fitting the garment. To me, the whole reason to sew is to get clothing that fits properly. I found something about how to alter patterns but nothing about how to decide whether the pattern needs altering and what it needs.
You could make a mock-up and see how it fits.
??FITTING GARMENTS FOR ONESELF??
Other than having a "perfect" model of oneself, It seems that one needs another person (who is knowledgeable and willing) to mark needed adjustments when you fit a garment intended for oneself!
A PROCESS?
I am guessing (?) that you make a mockup, mark for your adjustments "as best you can", make adjustments, keep what works and pull out what does not, REPEAT.
Use the adjusted mock up to guide construction of one's "real version".
I swear it's like you know exactly what videos to put out to help me. I am still doing research and taking notes. Still learning the terminology and the different stitches. But, one day I will make something from a pattern, without missing/omitting steps (like under stitching 😂)
Thank you!
Totally agree. I gave up sewing for years because patterns just didn't work. I now draft my own patterns...now understand ease etc by watching utube. Thank you for making me realise I wasnt going mad
Genius. I had one paid sewing lesson, decided to buy a Simplicity sewing book, took it home to my Jolson discounted floor model straight stitch sewing machine and learned by trial and error. Had you been around, I could have saved a lot of fabric. lol. I'm still learning more from you. Thank you
Your 11 points are very important things to know. However, in defense of the pattern makers, a pattern is just that a "pattern". It is not intended to be an instruction manual any more than a recipe is a cooking school. It's true beginners often make assumptions that the pattern will teach them to sew. That is an unrealistic expectation.
10000000%
So, so true.
But indie patterns provide much more comprehensive instructions. I’ve been seeing for a few years now and I find indie patterns generally provide enough information and tips and techniques to get a lovely finish. Same when I cook a really good recipe- like Ottolenghi includes little tips that improve the outcome by multitudes.
as someone just starting out with sewing, i always make the clothes from old bedsheets first, try them on, write down any and every changes i would have to make for it to fit me, and Then cut it from the actual fabric. but it's twice as much work (1.5x, more like, because i never finish anything on the prototype). i wish the sizes were the same as store-bought clothing sizes. thank you for this video and all your other explaining ones. things are starting to fall into place, finally :)
I did not experience many of these because although my Mom loved to sew she did not like laying out pinning and cutting out patterns. She taught me all of that from a very young age, as well as how to hand hem. But she never taught me how to sew on the machine! I started hearing all of these questions as I taught my daughter to sew (she is making cosplay costumes). Working with her has been a fun experience. The very first thing she made was a Fence Rail quilt, it taught seam allowance and sewing straight lines as well as basic machine operations. The rest has been fun. I eventually taught myself how to sew and made lots of baby clothes. I took all the free lessons the fabric stores offered 40 years ago.
My mother would cut out the fabric, sometimes with a pattern, sometime without, and sit at the machine till it was done. She taught us to press, but didn't press her makes. She was quick. She sewed piece work, in a factory, so she had a power machine and zip zip zip, it was done. She bought one of the old Osan machine heads for $10.00 when they updated their machines. I learned on that machine, and made all my clothes throughout my youth on that machine. Love your clarity of what we all need to know to sew a garment. It's funny to think of this info not being available. You give this to all the beginners, and some of us oldsters too.
Hello. I'm enjoying your videos. This is very useful for beginners. Biographically, I've been sewing for a lot (a LOT!) of years. I first learned in high school with a teacher whose evident mission was to make sure we all would NEVER want to sew anything again. Flash forward a decade and I was having my children and wanted to make things for them and for myself. My mother-in -aw taught me what little she knew, but a video like this one would have been a godsend.
I finally got serious in my 40s. There was a cape I wanted to make for an upcoming event. My neighbor assured me that she would make if I got the materials. I showed up at her house with arms full of fabric, pattern, thread, etc. She said, and I quote, "I'm kind of busy, can you lay out the fabric?" So I went to her dining room table and laid out the yardage. "Can you pin it, please?" she called from the other room.
"I don't know how," I answered.
"Look at the fabric. You see how it goes up and down and across? Well the arrow goes with the up and down part. Put the arrow on that and pin."
"Okay."
Then she came out of the bedroom. "I didn't realize it was so late. I have to go pick up the kids." she said apologetically, "Can you cut it out, please?" I nodded. "Just make sure you cut those diamond-y things too. They're important." You probably know where this is going.
Everything was cut out by the time she got back, and I ended up making my cape by myself, under her supervision.
I've learned a LOT since then. But the biggest rules she taught me were:
3. EVERYTHING in the pattern is important. Leave something out and the garment will most likely fail.
2. If you don't know what the pattern's information means, FIND OUT. Somebody, somewhere will know.
1. The more you fuss the better it will look.
Give a man a fish and he has one meal. Teach a man to fish and they are fed for life. That neighbor did you a great service.
Thank you, I hadn't realized how much I learned from my mothers I was picking up sewing skills in my early teens. When I came across these things I was able to ask.
Something I have never heard discussed is why the sewer might choose to cut out the pattern at the same time as cutting the fabric. I was taught to cut out the pattern and then cut the fabric from that pattern - which allows you to reuse that pattern.
I love that the patterns give you the option to have a rest between sewing steps because it lets you choose the options of, with nap or without nap :-)
Lol always with nap.
@@charlottehayward5943 lol yep... 😴 my kind of nap ;-)
I have been sewing for over 50 years…. The point I resonated with is Testing!!!! Thank you for validating this point in my mind! I still want to just sit down and sew!! I will do more testing from now on…. And trying on along the way! Gotta go…. Must see “ Why things don’t match” right away!
I also do a zigzag stitch around the edges of my material to keep it from fraying in the wash. Color test
Excellent advice. I found you must make pattern adjustments before pinning out and cutting. I keep personal notes on my sewing projects so not to fall in to the same problem. Love these videos.
I'm more or less a beginner at sewing ,, and I learn as I go along ,,, I seem to learn the hard way and do a lot of unpicking , which frustrates me ,,, but I still enjoy sewing ,, my mother was a natural sewer and seemed to do everything ,, she was just so good at it ,, and she never learn sewing but learn it as she went along ,,, I guess I thought I was like her , a 'natural',, which I discovered I'm not ,,, but I still find it challenging to try a sewing project ,,, but live and learn as they say ,,, and I'm really enjoying your advice on many tricks to sewing ,,, thanks
I literally ordered pattern rulers because patterns are not accurate. Pants are thr worst! The rise....nightmare.
So glad you are going to post a video on this. Like to lwarn more on the rise in pants.
Pattern rulers?
@@lindaamspaugh7068 A set of rulers specifically made for dressmaking, my set has six different rulers. They're usually made of clear plastic with inch and centimetre measurements. some are straight, some have french curves, one of mine has button hole marking holes and collar edge shapes (at least, that is what I think they're for!). You can use them for altering or sizing up or down a pattern (I think this is called grading?) or if you are transferring a pattern from a book onto pattern-making paper. One book I have, admittedly it's very old, show an outline of each piece and the measurements, taken from historical garments and to turn them into even vaguely useful patterns, I have to transfer the book measurements to cm squared paper, join all the dots, work out what measurements need to be changed to fit, add those and join those dots to match the lines and curves of the first set, add a seam allowance if the original garment was measured from the outside and then make about half a dozen mock-ups adding notches, grainlines and anything else... I'm getting quite good at interpreting patterns from artwork, but I only recently learned about understitching...!
I am not new to sewing at all, but I am new to commercial patterns; I've tried recently to tackle Simplicity 8510 and ended up huge tap pants that I could pull up to my armpits LOL so... this is so helpful!!
The one about checking the fit before finishing! I feel that! 😂😭
Some of us had sewing in school. Fitting was glossed over. Fortunately in the sixties, we were "Baby Doll" dresses that didn't fit below the armpit. I did learn how to set in sleeves and do zippers. Now 50 years later, my daughter is learning to sew. And everything you said in the video is absolutely right
Your videos are so good. My husband was watching with me as hes fascinated by sewing, atho he can barely thread a needle but he often watches me sew for hours. As one who started sewing for fun as a child and did dressmaking at school until year 12 (those days DID exist in the early 1980's!!), that I realised there is SO much that is innate now. My husband watched this with me as he is getting older, he interested in making things (being an IT guy for 35 years) and he thinks dressmaking is magic - he cant see how a 2 D shape becomes a 3 D garment! So he watched this coz i thought "Ok this will be interesting" and he knew nothing about grain line, he asked me if it was a real thing. Hes seen me make toiles ALL the time as much Im taller in the body, big busted and sleeves never fit, so Ive learned to reshape my patterns and even make them, as I do many hiostorical eras as well
But i the one that did take me along time was pressing each seam as you go - I used to think my teacher was just OCD about it, and when i picked up sewing again 10 years fater leaving school - i didnt do it and yup YUP - it made a difference!!
Oh I can so relate to the pattern size conundrum. I decided to make a dress for my 60th birthday party after an absence of about 30 years from garment sewing. I had completely forgotten that pattern sizes are not the same and made it up in a size 16, lining and all. It was of course, way too tight, but determined to have the dress I unpicked the whole thing!! Never again! I think your video is very helpful in educating new (and rusty) sewers about this issue
I'm glad you found it useful!! 😊
This has changed over the years. I used to sew the same size I bought and they fit. Not now. Also I was told that Simplicity patterns were designed to fit tall slim B cup girls and McCalls shorter stouter women. Is that right?
Thank you so much for this! I attempted my first pattern a few days ago without knowing almost all of the things you mentioned. It was so frustrating to have to waste all my fabric and have to completely toss my project away because the pattern didn't tell me things they expected sewers to know. I luckily have just enough fabric left to redo the project, and this time I'll be sure to follow all of your advice! It was so helpful to hear where I went wrong and why it's not stated on the pattern. Thank you! I feel so much more motivated to attempt sewing again because of you!
This is a fantastic informative video. All the points you covered are so so useful. I’m an experienced sewer but this video is so essential to beginner sewers!
I just love the way you look and smile while explaining. It`s refreshing !
I'm an absolute beginner regarding making clothes, but I've been doing a lot of research and that's helped. I was really happy to realise I'd already picked up on most of the things discussed in this video so I must be on the right track.
I've bought some commercial patterns which I was looking forward to trying, but I've discovered most bust sizes are a B cup in smaller sizes, and a DD cup in plus sizes, and I'm bigger than a DD with a body size that fits into (usually) the upper end of smaller sized patterns. It means I will have to significantly alter the patterns so I've been researching how to do this, but I had no clue this would be an issue until I stumbled upon it whilst looking into how to read patterns.
Commercial patterns aren't a "one size fits all" and usually need adjusting, but patterns don't tell you how to make those alterations for an accurate fit.
Something else not mentioned is moving dart points to align with your body shape, and splitting a dart - especially an altered wider bust dart for a larger cup - to move half of it to the hemline or armscye (a new term I learned yesterday). I've also seen a video on moving a bust dart to the shoulder seam and turning it into a pleat. Patterns don't tell you about having the flexibility to alter and move darts to fit your body shape.
I thought of another one too. Tracing the original pattern so it can be cut and adjusted whilst leaving the factory pattern intact. This is helpful for cutting and piecing the pattern whilst making size alterations, and if your body shape fluctuates or you're making the same pattern for different people and you'll want to use the factory pattern in different sizes.
I learned recently too that using carbon paper, waxed or designed for fabric, is useful to transfer notches, seam allowances, and darts to the fabric.
Stay stitching. Another term I've just learned, and especially important for curved seams such as necklines that can stretch on the bias.
And I don't know the terminology, but when sewing in a neck binding making sure to sew down the inside seam to ensure it lays flat before folding over the binding and finishing it. I never knew this and it's a step I would probably have skipped if I wasn't aware of why it's needed.
Hey, I don't know if this is still helpful to you even after so much time from your original comment, but I'm learning how to sew too and about making alterations to patterns, and I have a book my grandmother gave me called "Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing". I'm not sure if there are multiple versions of the book, but mine was printed in 1988 if that makes a difference. It doesn't have *everything* I wish it did, for instance it doesn't have really anything on mending, but it's been very helpful to learn some of the basics, especially supplemented with material like this channel, Google searches, and other channels like this. I also like Bernadette Banner (for her methodical way of sewing, and informative historically based content) and Rachel Maksy (for her creativity like her whimsical projects and Frankenstein-ing patterns together to get just what she wants, and complete lack of perfectionism making sewing seem very accessible).
But one thing this book does excellently is teach about fitting. The chapter called "Portfolio of Fitting Methods" is great, because it talks about basic alterations, but where it really shines is the bit on how to fit a shell and master pattern. It has a series of diagrams on how to tell where your garment needs to be altered by where it's wrinkling, taut, or lax, and how to solve those problems. I actually decided to try to practice 'diagnosing some of my store bought clothes in the mirror to find out why even if they 'fit' (in that I could physically put them on), they didn't fit *well* (gaping in button up shirts, tight shoulders, etc). It was kind of fun and helped me analyze why I like the fit of some of my clothes better than others, and figure out ways to solve things that bug me, like low armholes making it actually harder to move your arms than fitted ones. I'm actually in the process of sewing my first outfit now, a loose button up shirt, a waistcoat with a belt on the back, and a skirt with an elastic waistband and pockets.
I made a mock up of the waistcoat with some old bedsheets because I was most concerned with how that garment specifically might fit (the whole reason I wanted to make a waistcoat is because I've never been able to find one that fits me and I love waistcoats). I was really excited that the pattern actually fit pretty well even though by my measurements according to their size chart it 'should' technically be too small (I tried it on over a denim dress and t shirt because I figured that would help mimic some of the bulk of interfacing/a button up shirt underneath), but there was a weird gaping around the arm holes. I checked the book for the diagram that looked like what was going on, and it was due to fullness in the bust and the solution was to remove some of the excess fabric (I just made a dart on the side). If you can find a copy or a PDF, it's been super helpful to me if only for the fitting advice alone (though 'complete' does feel a bit like a misnomer, for instance it didn't tell me to stretch the elastic waistband as I sew, I found that out from a Google search when trying to figure out how to zig zag stitch by hand because I don't own a sewing machine, which is apparently just a flat catchstitch). I wish I could just share my copy but A) concerned about legality and B) impossible in the UA-cam comments section. But anyway, I wish you luck on your sewing adventures too!
Thank you Evelyn for your videos! I have really enjoyed watching your channel. I used to so garments many years ago and was well trained through the 4H program for kids. It is amazing how much I have forgotten. Your explanation of what they don’t tell you in patterns is so true. I gave up sewing for myself simply because I could not make it come out correctly. Your videos are very helpful and a reminder of what I should be doing every time. Please do the video on ease in a pattern. Also do a video on the sizing that is not the same as what we purchase in the stores. Take care and have an awesome week you are doing great work!
Aww thankyou so much 😚😚 And thanks for the suggestions!
Another fascinating and informative video. Thank you.
I am so, so grateful that I started sewing when it was compulsory in school. I struggle with some patterns but if I were starting out now, I'd be totally baffled.
I am so grateful for my jr hi and high school home economics teachers back in the 60s. They were so thorough and emphasized all the things you talked about.
EASE!!! I wanted to make a red wool coat. I had a Vogue pattern, many yards of red wool and lovely lining. I made the decision to make a size larger than I should have to fit over the my handmade sweaters. Well, my coat was too big. I spent so much money for a coat I could not wear.
That is why you make a mockup first 😣
Do not make it a size larger
How awful to learn that the hard way. Could you dismantle it and recut it? Coating fabric is far too expensive to waste. I know that would be a lot of work but the satisfaction would be immense. So, Yes, ease is very important but not always available on the pattern packet but printed somewhere on the pattern pieces which is terrible.
don’t be discouraged. if you want motivation, look up bernadette banner’s video on redoing her coat.
Iron the paper pattern before using!!!
Wow... love your videos but they really make me appreciate my mum... she taught me to sew as soon as I could reach the pedal and explained all those mysterious words as we went... must phone her and say thanks
The BEST education in sewing for a beginner.
SomethingI learned after quite some time kinda relates to testing like you said; not treating every fabric the same. The pattern usually specifies types of fabrics that would be best for that specific pattern, but they don't really tell you why, or what will happen if you use a different fabric, or what you can do to the pattern to use it on a different fabric. For a long time i treated every fabric like it was the same and didn't change my methods; I used the same size needle, stitch length, presser foot pressure, etc and always wondered why I would get puckering, bird's nests, why it seemed like my sewing machine was always eating my garments (ahhhhh, so frustrating!), etc. I now refer to my fabric reference book every time I'm sewing with a new fabric or one I don't work with often to make sure my settings are all right. I also always test those settings on a scrap like you suggested in this video and adjust as needed. Seems basic, but it took a while for that one to click for me.
Liz Neu Would you mind sharing what you use for your fabric reference book. The many different fabric choices are my weakest point. I know the very most basic things about fabrics, but couldn't tell a Chambray from a Chiffon. My mother tried to teach me but I just couldn't remember so many details.
As a very experienced sewer, I never need to jot anything down. Even when I was a baby beginner, I'd play it by ear so to speak. This is the best way to learn. To have to keep looking up your reference notes is a bad habit. Just try it out yourself on a scrap piece first. Ditch the notebook. Doing makes you remember. It will also give you the confidence to buy any fabric of your choosing.
There is no short cut to learning how to sew. As I've said in other replies, sewing takes many years to master. The right sewing tools for the job, buying the right machine for yourself, learning all about machine settings & needle to be used according to fabrics, buying the correct threads, learning how to fit/alter a pattern, or outfit, to meet our own measurements, fabric weight, type, nap, colour of fabric to suit our skin complexion, which style to suit our body forms, compatible interfacings, lining fabrics, suitable notions, etc. This takes years! We gain experience by trial & error. We never really stop learning to improve the finished result.
Dear Ms Wood. You’re the first I’ve chosen to subscribe. It’s been a pleasure watching you impart your expertise on a subject you really love!
I have my biggest problem in determining whether the design on the fabric is appropriate for a specific project. In truth, most of my store bought wardrobe consists of solid colors because I’ve never been certain how designs on a fabric affect my body type I.e. who should wear horizontal lines or who should avoid them like the plague!
If you could address this issue, it would go a long way in having a sense of appropriateness in the clothing I make.
Rosa DeLaney i agree.....
Rosa...
I suggest you venture into some stores & pull examples of what your mind is questioning. Just to learn.
Good fortune on your journey!
I absolutely despise horizontal stripes. They are so unflattering on a full figure. I will make a blouse with stripes, but always with the stripes vertical.
I just started sewing again after so many years too busy to do! Love your channel. My husband loved the dress I actually sewed together! But I did a lot of short cuts! After the great tips and inspiration, I’m going to sew another dress only this time with your great tips and videos ❤️
This channel is so helpful! I'm a beginner and it's like you're reading my mind with everything I'm struggling with!
I have had quite a few people question why I take so much time to cut precisely and press between each step of the process. “Why do you it? It’s takes so long! I always skip that and it doesn’t make a difference!” And then, when our garments are finished they wonder why mine looks better/more professional. It’s because I press!!! Press everything!!!
I have always pressed my garment I am making,it looks so much neater when it's done and as you say more professional,
Please do additional videos on understanding a pattern... ❤️❤️ It can be so confusing for a beginner
I agree! There is so much assumed knowledge on using patterns! If you have specific questions just let me know too! 😄
@@Evelyn__Wood thank you! You are such an abundance of information...I appreciate you ❤️🌼
I have destroyed so much fabric by not testing the stitches. So much frustration could've been avoided. My word!
The big one I learned recently was the size chart. I was off by 12 sizes because it's so messed up! Happy surprise I'm smaller than I thought but it's still a time-consuming lesson.
Yes, i would love to hear your take on ease!
Going back to watch the "matching seam" video right now.
I would like to see a more detailed video on each of the items you went over, including notches, etc. As new sewers and returning sewers would appreciate.
One thing that confused me when I first started working with patterns was the business with the little triangles at various points on the outlines. I had to ask my Home Economics teacher what they meant.
You know I just realized notches was on my list... but I must have skipped it in the video 😂😂😂 So it was only 10 after all! Yes, definitely those little triangles are not explained!!
Yes, what are those triangles for?
@@D5.com23 Matching two pattern pieces together. You match at the notches first then ease the fabric between them if needed. If the fabric isn't stretchy or if you cut it properly, they'll match without need for easing.
Also there are sometimes triangles in random places (not on the border) and big and small dots, what are those for..
@@lieneke6181 good question!
Just got my first sewing machine and I'm so happy I found your channel! Thank you!