it's only 50 feet, and primary living quarters are in the hulls. Imo, anything livable starts at 80 feet long and 35 feet wide... but that's me. The flotation hulls really should only be for fuel and turbo machinery. Should have two decks.
@@daomingjin You must be a billionaire. An 80' catamaran is up in the six million dollar range. Then there are the costs of ownership that go up steeply with each foot you add. But, I wish you well on whatever boat you choose, we just can't afford such an expensive option.
Man I am excited for your party, that would be so cool to be able to walk on the bridge deck. I live in Canada so you would have to beam me up to the bridge deck Cap'n
I'm following your build with great interest because I'm also considering building similar size boat, but much simpler design, something like Wharram Pahi 52, but with more performance oriented hull shape. Living space in hulls only, no bridge deck cabin to simplify things. What I have noticed watching your build is it looks like having all these precut kit panels actually don't save that much time vs cutting them yourself from sheets of foam sandwich board. Preparing those panels for assembly, reinforcing them where needed, building parts that don't come in kit, then gluing together all those million joints, sanding and fairing are real time killers.
Certainly you could cut all the pieces yourself. However, it will add quite a bit of time. There are over 600 pieces that were cut, each a different shape. Measuring out each of those shapes and then cutting them out will add a lot of time. We noticed that when we have had to do custom cuts it has really slowed us down. The majority of the remaining work (about 500 pieces) are the pre-cut elements, so we can move forward at a much faster pace now. Cutting things like the strips for the hulls cost us a lot of time, and those were simple 3" strips repeated 50 times each, not odd shapes for each one.
Have you mapped out where all your through holes will be? You might want depth sounders in each hull. That would give you some redundancy. Plus, the two hulls might in different depths. If you only have one sounder, it might report plenty of depth while the other hull is very close to a reef. On a related note, what would happen if your boat is slammed against the bottom so your rudder hits? Would the tilt mechanism prevent damage? The hinge would need to be a ways forward of the rudder in order to minimize damage (though you'd still have abrasion). To deal with the same possibility, your dagger boards need to be able to be pushed up by any bottom they hit.
On your second paragraph... Our kickup rudder system uses an auto release system to allow them to kick up on impacts. The hinge is as far forward as possible. Daggerboards are more of an issue. They will give a little, but not a lot. The problem there is that impacts are going to be from the front (almost always), and they can't rotate, so they are designed to have two break off points so that the hulls aren't damaged. Straight up bottom impacts would take place if we weren't moving forward, in those cases, or any time we are moving very slowly, and the bottom is near, we'll retract the daggerboards anyway.
Отличный катамаран. Продолжай. Видео тоже интересно Удачи
Спасибо, будем продолжать работать над этим!
Another great video, and a couple of exciting weeks ahead... Fab work! Thanks for the UV protection reference 😊
Yep, lots to get done! You're welcome.
This is going to be a strong boat!! Awesome build
Thanks... so we hope!
Another great video from SV Lynx and crew🎉
Thank you!
Brian speaks!!
I had to double his salary for that.
@@SailingSVLynx ever see the movie "Clerks"? I think of him as the character Silent Bob
Keep up the great videos!!
Will do!
Very impressive!
Thanks
And yes, the real John Henry is in the house ( er, on the water!)! ⚒️
Lol
it's only 50 feet, and primary living quarters are in the hulls. Imo, anything livable starts at 80 feet long and 35 feet wide... but that's me. The flotation hulls really should only be for fuel and turbo machinery. Should have two decks.
@@daomingjin You must be a billionaire. An 80' catamaran is up in the six million dollar range. Then there are the costs of ownership that go up steeply with each foot you add. But, I wish you well on whatever boat you choose, we just can't afford such an expensive option.
Man I am excited for your party, that would be so cool to be able to walk on the bridge deck. I live in Canada so you would have to beam me up to the bridge deck Cap'n
I wish I could. 🙂
I'm following your build with great interest because I'm also considering building similar size boat, but much simpler design, something like Wharram Pahi 52, but with more performance oriented hull shape. Living space in hulls only, no bridge deck cabin to simplify things.
What I have noticed watching your build is it looks like having all these precut kit panels actually don't save that much time vs cutting them yourself from sheets of foam sandwich board. Preparing those panels for assembly, reinforcing them where needed, building parts that don't come in kit, then gluing together all those million joints, sanding and fairing are real time killers.
Certainly you could cut all the pieces yourself. However, it will add quite a bit of time. There are over 600 pieces that were cut, each a different shape. Measuring out each of those shapes and then cutting them out will add a lot of time. We noticed that when we have had to do custom cuts it has really slowed us down. The majority of the remaining work (about 500 pieces) are the pre-cut elements, so we can move forward at a much faster pace now. Cutting things like the strips for the hulls cost us a lot of time, and those were simple 3" strips repeated 50 times each, not odd shapes for each one.
Have you mapped out where all your through holes will be? You might want depth sounders in each hull. That would give you some redundancy. Plus, the two hulls might in different depths. If you only have one sounder, it might report plenty of depth while the other hull is very close to a reef.
On a related note, what would happen if your boat is slammed against the bottom so your rudder hits? Would the tilt mechanism prevent damage? The hinge would need to be a ways forward of the rudder in order to minimize damage (though you'd still have abrasion). To deal with the same possibility, your dagger boards need to be able to be pushed up by any bottom they hit.
No, we haven't gotten that far yet, but we will eventually :)
@@SailingSVLynx That was two paragraphs. Did you see the second.
On your second paragraph... Our kickup rudder system uses an auto release system to allow them to kick up on impacts. The hinge is as far forward as possible. Daggerboards are more of an issue. They will give a little, but not a lot. The problem there is that impacts are going to be from the front (almost always), and they can't rotate, so they are designed to have two break off points so that the hulls aren't damaged. Straight up bottom impacts would take place if we weren't moving forward, in those cases, or any time we are moving very slowly, and the bottom is near, we'll retract the daggerboards anyway.
Less talking from Brian would speed up the job.
Lol! I'll tell him that!
i started binging a few weeks ago! i am here for it, but feels weird having tow ait 1 week for the next episode
I understand... we wish the boat could be built faster too!