I would love to come and see you all but from France? so I will watch the video. To be honest I have built boats,I know how much hard work is involved . I am impressed to see what you have accomplished. Unfortunately I had to do the work on my own so having such good friends is a bonus. The more I see of your build the more I like. So keep up the great work and keep making these great videos for us to enjoy. From me a massive well done.
Well, it depends on which container! In the shipping container... not many, about 12 mid size pieces (you'll see the last full size panel come out in the next video). In the white trailer, there are still about 450 pieces, all very small, cupboards, cabinets, etc. These are the interior parts of the boat.
Your progress is looking great, and I look forward to seeing the bridge deck installed. Given that you said that the mixing of the epoxy was the limiting task in the false coves, it makes me wonder how you will get the huge amount mixed that will be needed to bond all of those coves to the bottom surface of the bridge deck. I have been watching Ran Sailing build their monohull and Johan pre-measures all of the ingredients for all of the batches of epoxy that he will need for a day's work prior to start of work. He has the epoxy resin in stir pots and the hardener in cups. He then thickens the resin as needed but without the hardener so that it is ready to go in a pre-thickened state. He also uses a drill powered mixer to do the stirring which greatly speeds that process and insures through mixing.
Those are all good ideas for bonding the top down to the web. But, even so, it is just going to take an army of my crew to get that job done in about a half hour.
@@SailingSVLynx With such a large task, everything that can be done beforehand from measuring and mixing will be extra time available during the bonding process.
@@SailingSVLynx That depends to a significant extent on the consistency or the finished product. If you are going for a mayonnaise or catsup thickness, it is easier to mix the hardener into the thickened resin. If you want peanut butter, it would be much harder to mix. In any case, when mixing pre-thickened resin, it is best to use mechanical mixing to get it fully incorporated. Thixo and Six10 are a couple of examples of pre-thickened epoxy. Other than the cost, those would be huge time savers for the step of bonding the bottom of the bridge deck. ua-cam.com/video/NQuQvfWUurw/v-deo.html
Ask This Old House recently showed a circuit breaker panel with built-in power usage monitoring. Plus, it could turn off high usage loads when power fails. You should see if there's something like that for boats. It could turn those high loads (like your air conditioner) off when your battery runs low. Residents could control individual circuits from their phone.
That would be interesting. However, we are going with digital switching on S/V Lynx, so perhaps one of those systems has something similar. I'll enquire.
The advantage of current monitoring on individual circuits is to know that is running, or more specifically if there is a problem. There is actually a method to know if it runs without actually monitoring current itself. Useful to know how often and how long a sump is running. For manually turning on a pump you can tell if current is outside the normal range, or if it’s not pumping. Nigel Calder even talks about it a decade ago, but it’s mostly proprietary instead of being interchangeable. I’ve actually designed my own version of the CZone Combination InputOutput module using a Raspberry Pi as the bridge to NMEA2K since each of my modules is BlueTooth - saving some wiring.
I hope you decide to sail through philippines and witness the great hospetality and friendlyness along with the amazing diving places. I'm still building my 6meter catamaran that is for my family to enjoy sailing around the islands in philippines.
From some of the questions about the strength of the different parts it's clear that people don't realize the strength of fiber glass. Great work guys, keep it up.
With regard to the sealed watertight areas, which presumably are designed to maintain buoyancy if water gets aboard the boat, has consideration been given to filling them with closed cell foam so that, even if there is a breach in the hull in that area, water would not be able to fill that area?
Not much added safety since the watertight compartments are separated. In other words, if you get a hole in one, it won't flood the rest. Here is what I found when I looked up for closed cell foam, "Closed cell foam, also known as mid-density or two-pound SPF, typically weighs between 1.8 and 3 pounds per cubic foot when fully cured." Even if we take the 1.8 pound low weight side, you are talking about a significant amount of weight added to the boat. Just one (of many) water tight compartments in the Solitaire 1520 is 48 cu ft, or 86.4 pounds, per side of the boat. Adding foam to all watertight compartments would therefore add hundreds of pounds to the boat. There is no point to reducing the living space in the hulls to make this a performance oriented model if you are going to add weight that slows it down. You would do better to buy a slow comfort cat in that case.
What’s the purpose of the dummy coves as opposed to just gluing directly the grid to the deck piece? I noticed you did similar dummy coves when building the engine compartment..
coves add a radius for the reinforcement material (fibreglass mostly, but could be carbon or basalt etc) to make it stronger, so you get better transfer of loads between (say perpendicular) surfaces and less point-loading causing failure. It's easier to put the coves in working "down" on the plastic on the table, than it is to work up above your head afterwards, hence the "dummy coves" because they are creating the cove before affixing it in place. It's a good method, definitely a time / labour saver when there's so many linear metres to cove.
@@PaulWallis-c7y My reply explains how this strength increase is achieved, but I think you are confusing coves and dummy coves. A cove is a radial curve (infilled) between 2 different planes (say perpendicular), whereas a dummy cove creates this radial curve (and infill) against one plane only, as they have done with the bridgedeck webbing before flipping. A dummy cove does not create 50% more strength compared to a cove (of the same size / shape); it is done, as it was here, for convenience / efficiency. Once affixed in place there is no strength difference between doing a dummy cove, affixing, then tabbing, compared to affixing, coving, tabbing. The benefit is reduction of labour time (it's easier, as I said before, to work "down" than up).
They add more surface area to glue the sole to and add support. They have to be done ahead of time since the compartment will be sealed and inaccessible once the sole is glued down.
Wouldn’t it have been better to wait with the water tight compartment lids until the sides are attached so those can be properly taped both from the outside and inside…?
We'll put additional tape at that point. Getting the supports glued in and the panel in place were just easier when we had access from the sides rather than only through the bulkhead opening.
This project is very interesting, surprised there aren’t more subscribers.
Thanks... we're glad you enjoy it. As for subs, we can't control that, we can just build our boat and do our best in publishing weekly videos.
When it's ready, thousands of subscribers will help you sail the boat.
I'm sure some of them will. :)
Great work guys I’m enjoying your videos keep it up loved the drone footage
Thanks! Will do!
I would love to come and see you all but from France? so I will watch the video. To be honest I have built boats,I know how much hard work is involved . I am impressed to see what you have accomplished. Unfortunately I had to do the work on my own so having such good friends is a bonus. The more I see of your build the more I like. So keep up the great work and keep making these great videos for us to enjoy. From me a massive well done.
Thanks for the words of support, it means a lot to us! if you can't come to Southern California, we'll come to France on the boat!
Keep up the good work love your videos 😊😊
Thank you! Will do!
Someone is pretty good at flying that drone!
Yeah, my cousin Trevor is quite a pilot.
Wanting to see a shot of how many parts of the kit you still have in the container.
Well, it depends on which container! In the shipping container... not many, about 12 mid size pieces (you'll see the last full size panel come out in the next video). In the white trailer, there are still about 450 pieces, all very small, cupboards, cabinets, etc. These are the interior parts of the boat.
Your progress is looking great, and I look forward to seeing the bridge deck installed. Given that you said that the mixing of the epoxy was the limiting task in the false coves, it makes me wonder how you will get the huge amount mixed that will be needed to bond all of those coves to the bottom surface of the bridge deck.
I have been watching Ran Sailing build their monohull and Johan pre-measures all of the ingredients for all of the batches of epoxy that he will need for a day's work prior to start of work. He has the epoxy resin in stir pots and the hardener in cups. He then thickens the resin as needed but without the hardener so that it is ready to go in a pre-thickened state. He also uses a drill powered mixer to do the stirring which greatly speeds that process and insures through mixing.
Those are all good ideas for bonding the top down to the web. But, even so, it is just going to take an army of my crew to get that job done in about a half hour.
@@SailingSVLynx With such a large task, everything that can be done beforehand from measuring and mixing will be extra time available during the bonding process.
Unfortunately, after reading your post I looked into mixing fibers before hardener and West System recommends agaisnt that idea.
@@SailingSVLynx That depends to a significant extent on the consistency or the finished product. If you are going for a mayonnaise or catsup thickness, it is easier to mix the hardener into the thickened resin. If you want peanut butter, it would be much harder to mix. In any case, when mixing pre-thickened resin, it is best to use mechanical mixing to get it fully incorporated.
Thixo and Six10 are a couple of examples of pre-thickened epoxy. Other than the cost, those would be huge time savers for the step of bonding the bottom of the bridge deck. ua-cam.com/video/NQuQvfWUurw/v-deo.html
@@SailingSVLynx mechanical mixing. ua-cam.com/video/mdtatoLZH18/v-deo.html
Ask This Old House recently showed a circuit breaker panel with built-in power usage monitoring. Plus, it could turn off high usage loads when power fails. You should see if there's something like that for boats. It could turn those high loads (like your air conditioner) off when your battery runs low. Residents could control individual circuits from their phone.
That would be interesting. However, we are going with digital switching on S/V Lynx, so perhaps one of those systems has something similar. I'll enquire.
@@SailingSVLynx Since such technology is so new, you might want a physical breaker you can throw to kill a circuit in an emergency.
The ones we are looking at have a physical fuse as well as digital.
The advantage of current monitoring on individual circuits is to know that is running, or more specifically if there is a problem. There is actually a method to know if it runs without actually monitoring current itself. Useful to know how often and how long a sump is running. For manually turning on a pump you can tell if current is outside the normal range, or if it’s not pumping. Nigel Calder even talks about it a decade ago, but it’s mostly proprietary instead of being interchangeable. I’ve actually designed my own version of the CZone Combination InputOutput module using a Raspberry Pi as the bridge to NMEA2K since each of my modules is BlueTooth - saving some wiring.
I hope you decide to sail through philippines and witness the great hospetality and friendlyness along with the amazing diving places. I'm still building my 6meter catamaran that is for my family to enjoy sailing around the islands in philippines.
The Philippines are on one of our projected routes, so maybe we'll see you there!
From some of the questions about the strength of the different parts it's clear that people don't realize the strength of fiber glass. Great work guys, keep it up.
@@michaelhamilton1290 It's strong stuff, especially since we use 100% epoxy for the build.
With regard to the sealed watertight areas, which presumably are designed to maintain buoyancy if water gets aboard the boat, has consideration been given to filling them with closed cell foam so that, even if there is a breach in the hull in that area, water would not be able to fill that area?
It's too heavy, we need to keep the boat as light as possible.
@SailingSVLynx Speed over safety? That must be your choice. I'm surprised that foam is so heavy that it affects the weight considerably
Not much added safety since the watertight compartments are separated. In other words, if you get a hole in one, it won't flood the rest. Here is what I found when I looked up for closed cell foam, "Closed cell foam, also known as mid-density or two-pound SPF, typically weighs between 1.8 and 3 pounds per cubic foot when fully cured." Even if we take the 1.8 pound low weight side, you are talking about a significant amount of weight added to the boat. Just one (of many) water tight compartments in the Solitaire 1520 is 48 cu ft, or 86.4 pounds, per side of the boat. Adding foam to all watertight compartments would therefore add hundreds of pounds to the boat. There is no point to reducing the living space in the hulls to make this a performance oriented model if you are going to add weight that slows it down. You would do better to buy a slow comfort cat in that case.
What’s the purpose of the dummy coves as opposed to just gluing directly the grid to the deck piece? I noticed you did similar dummy coves when building the engine compartment..
coves add a radius for the reinforcement material (fibreglass mostly, but could be carbon or basalt etc) to make it stronger, so you get better transfer of loads between (say perpendicular) surfaces and less point-loading causing failure. It's easier to put the coves in working "down" on the plastic on the table, than it is to work up above your head afterwards, hence the "dummy coves" because they are creating the cove before affixing it in place. It's a good method, definitely a time / labour saver when there's so many linear metres to cove.
@ApprenticeGM dummy coves increase strength at least 50% more and some cases even more. Depends where and why coves are being used.
@@PaulWallis-c7y My reply explains how this strength increase is achieved, but I think you are confusing coves and dummy coves. A cove is a radial curve (infilled) between 2 different planes (say perpendicular), whereas a dummy cove creates this radial curve (and infill) against one plane only, as they have done with the bridgedeck webbing before flipping.
A dummy cove does not create 50% more strength compared to a cove (of the same size / shape); it is done, as it was here, for convenience / efficiency. Once affixed in place there is no strength difference between doing a dummy cove, affixing, then tabbing, compared to affixing, coving, tabbing. The benefit is reduction of labour time (it's easier, as I said before, to work "down" than up).
You can't tab the dummy coves as they are in a sealed compartment after the sole is glued down.
They add more surface area to glue the sole to and add support. They have to be done ahead of time since the compartment will be sealed and inaccessible once the sole is glued down.
Wouldn’t it have been better to wait with the water tight compartment lids until the sides are attached so those can be properly taped both from the outside and inside…?
We'll put additional tape at that point. Getting the supports glued in and the panel in place were just easier when we had access from the sides rather than only through the bulkhead opening.
Put your bowl of epoxy in a tub of ice while using. Longer work time.
If we had ice, but it's a good idea, thanks.
gulp
It wasn't that bad :)
@@SailingSVLynx great progress.
still getting used to the weekly wait for episodes after binging all of it
😜