Well done, simple explanation, short and to the point. I’ve been using Micasa Verde/Vera for 9 years. Started with a Vera Lite and upgraded to Vera Edge last year for 2 houses. I love the fact that I can buy from so many different suppliers. Another valuable feature is the world-class support. Anytime I have an issue, I get support within 24 hours most of the time. The ability for me to set remote access to enable their ability to troubleshoot and sometimes even fix the issue themselves is priceless, especially for those that may not have a technical background. Google recently released the ability to integrate the Google Home system with Vera allowing voice control of most all z wave devices.
Just to clarify a few things: All battery devices are exempt from participating in routing - not just locks and thermostats. Locks and thermostats support beaming because they are FLiRS devices (Frequently Listing Routing Slaves), not for security (encryption) purposes - thermostats do not typically use Z-Wave's higher level security, but they still do not participate in routing IF and ONLY IF they use batteries. Thermostats powered by the "C" wire of the furnace do not need or use batteries, and they participate in routing. Size: 3,000 square feet is not accurate. There is not a practical limit to the size of the home. A Z-Wave device in open-air can transmit 100 meters, which is 328 feet. What limits this is when the signal has to go through walls and other materials. However, even through a few walls, the typical device communicates DIRECTLY with the source device and does not use routing. When you add routing and 4 hops into it, you will see that you can do some REALLY large homes. What determines how well it works is how many devices you have - if you have a large home, you need many devices to build a good mesh network; this is more true with older non Z-Wave Plus devices, but there are 6,000 and even 8,000 square feet homes being done successfully with Z-Wave. Popcorn effect is caused by consumers buying Z-Wave switches that do not support the Z-Wave Scene commands, or that have older Z-Wave controllers that were not forced to support the Z-Wave Scene Commands (Z-Wave Plus controllers should support this). With a Z-Wave Scene command, a "broadcast" (of sorts) message is sent to all of the devices in a scene, which is created ahead of time and programmed into the devices, and this allows all of the devices in that scene to react at the same time. If you do not use a scene, a controller can still use a type of Z-Wave command that can send a signal to multiple devices at once, and this too eliminates a popcorn effect. Look for devices that have the command class "Scene Activation" in the list of supported command classes at Products.Z-WaveAlliance.org - your controller should also be found there and it should have that command class in the list of "Controlled" command classes. Latency - Since most Z-Wave devices are communicated to directly, the latency is the round trip time for the command and the acknowledgement to be returned. This is less than a whopping 80ms. Not sure what you are talking about with latency! Even with four hops, the total time approaches 1 second, but is still pretty much instantaneous to humans. The Z-Wave Alliance does not regulate the manufacturers, it is a grouping of manufacturers (over 600 of them) promoting and using the Z-Wave technology. Sigma Designs, the owner of the Z-Wave technology, regulates manufacturers by requiring interoperability certification before any product can be commercially sold; this means that the device is required to work with devices from other manufacturers. This is one of the key things about Z-Wave - some people do not like that the protocol is not open inside the chip, but if it were, then anybody could create Z-Wave devices without having to make sure they were certified. There are about 80% as many Z-Wave products certified for the CEPT (European) market as the United States/Canada/Mexico frequency - Z-Wave STARTED in Copenhagen (Europe) and so it is quite popular there; automating homes is what is not as popular in Europe. ;-)
Tink, you are correct on some of the statements in your reply but I would disagree with you on some of it as well. I checked out some of your videos and you are really bright. When I get some time I'll get you a long reply so that the readers can be more educated in this space. I made this video about two years ago and my attention has shifted towards crypto. Thanks for the valuable information and I'll get you a descriptive reply when I get some time!
Yes, I know Sigma Designs and know a couple of the people that work for Sigma Designs. A couple of the differences I would argue is the latency and the size. The latency is not a big deal if you're just turning on lights or other things but it is when you are making triggers. Such as if you want your closet light to come on with an occupancy sensor. That 1-3 second delay is very annoying. You can pair the light directly to the sensor but most people do not know how to do this. You also are not able to blink lights rapidly because of this latency as well. The latency is not much of an issue but can be an issue with certain environments. Having installed Z-wave in probably a thousand or so homes, I am pretty aware of issues that can come about with a home 5k+ square feet. I am good friends with a guy that set up a network of 37 Yale locks and he was only able to accomplish this with 3-4 hubs. You can install Z-wave in larger homes but I just mentioned the 3-4k size home being optimal. I'll elaborate more later...
The latency you mention is due to the hub. If you associate the sensor to the device it is instantaneous, and if you use a good hub it is instantaneous. My son has a sensor on a pantry door, goes back to HomeSeer, and then HomeSeer turns on pantry light - it is instantaneous. It would have a delay if you were routing the signals or went through a slow controller. Locks are another story that you did not clarify very well. To send one signal to a lock, it does 3 transmissions because of encryption. This was address with Security 2 which is in newer devices. So when you mention that latency comes into play in some setups unless you associate the sensor to the device directly (you called it pair) but most people do not know this, then that is an opportunity for a blog article.
Tyler - Good job! It's worth mentioning that some of the issues you've highlighted are specific to the main controllers being used. For example, the "Size" limitation is only a limitation for a single Z-Wave network. With larger houses (including houses with outbuildings), you can extend the range (and maximum number of devices) by adding more Z-Wave interfaces (like our Z-NET). Latency and the "Popcorn" effect can also be minimized (dramatically) by using a controller with a fast CPU that processes all automation functions locally. Latency in our HomeTrollers is typically measured in milliseconds; NOT seconds! Remotely managed "smart hubs" tend to have the biggest latency since automation functions are processed off-site on a shared web service.
HomeSeerOfficial Thank you for the comment HomeSeer. I've been aware of your product for a long time but never had a chance to test out. So basically is the Z-Net acting as an additional huh and then it communicates to the main hub via IP? I've done large builds using multiple Vera units. This fixed the hop limit and allowed multiple transmission points. Only a few controllers on the market are about to do this. You are absolutely correct about remote managed hubs being slower than a locally processed unit. However, you would still have a popcorn effect, but it would be minimized. There is only one way that I know of that completely eliminates the"popcorn effect" in Z-WAVE. Again, I appreciate the information.
Tyler - the Z-NET is not acting as an independent hub. It's just a Z-Wave interface. Think of it as a network-addressable Z-Wave dongle. You only need one of our hubs ("HomeTrollers") running 1 instance of our software. Our software supports multiple networks and will talk to as many Z-NETs as necessary. This keeps everything centrally managed. As for the "popcorn" effect, I used to see that when I used X10 lamp modules on the 3 lights in my living room. Now, my 3 Z-Wave bulbs come on instantaneously... at least I can't perceive that effect. In fact, I would have to look at the event to know which bulb is first in the event sequence (NOT kidding!)..
I have 3 lights scattered across the front of my house that all come on at the same time using the HS Znet. I have yet to get a 'popcorn' moment. The closest to the HS is about 10 feet, the farthest is 40-45 feet but there are other devices in between.
Tyler, I have been using z-wave since the first chip set and now have almost an entire house based on zwave plus. The range issue you mention might be relevant but I can tell you in my home that has a perimeter of 50-70 feet and interoperates on living and basement levels. My controller is centrally located (more or less) and of my 90 zwave deivces all but 2 are direct to the z-net zwave controller.
Richard Morton Richard, Z-wave plus has made some much needed improvements with Z-wave. I made this video before it was really introduced. Not all manufacturers have moved to zwave plus yet. It also depends on interferences with the RF signals. A lot of people think I'm against zwave, which I'm not at all. I've just done some nightmare installs that people need to consider before committing to a certain technology
Actually, Ben Z-wave is one of my favorite. I just wanted to be as transparent as possible about the pros and cons on it. I have a good mix of z-wave for my home. This depends on what we are talking about... If we are talking just lighting, then I actually really like UPB. Lutron is a very solid solution but I'm not a big fan of the company or the price. Z-wave is great for 95% of cases but there are just some cons you have to factor in before you choose the technology best for you. Home automation can be very expensive and it is important to choose wisely!
Good video, thanks. I do have a few comments concerning distance limits of the Z-Wave mesh network. In my experience, even without using the mesh network, with most devices (I have tested/used dozens in 3 different Smart Home installations), Z-Wave does support distances of 50 to 100 feet depending on the environment. Also, latency issues seem to have more to do with the controller type and its configuration (cloud based or local control based, devices used in the automation, etc.). In most cases, a typical Z-Wave switch can be configured so that latency or the delay to react to a command is less than 1 second.
EcoNet Controls Nice shut off valve Econet ;) . Yes, you are correct it matters with the environment you are installing zwave. I have installed zwave in a 100 or so homes and sometimes it went 50 feet or sometimes it only went 15. Zwave plus has improved these distances considerably. Yes, you are correct with a cloud based controller or LAN connection it will definitely change the speed of zwave. Thanks for watching!
Hmm, do any of your Smart Home installations include a water shut solution? (prevent water damage!). Let me know if you are interested in our Bulldog Valve Robot demo kit, and/or dealer discounts. ballen@econetcontrols.com. Cheers! (I tried to private message but it does not seem possible through UA-cam)
Good information. Thank you for sharing. Have been curious for a while, how do you know what items on z-wave work with a certain system? I have pulse and when I called adt they had referred me to their webpage which list a pretty dull amount of compatible devices for the system. When you call a manufacturer they tell you it should work but it doesn’t. Is there a way to determine what zwave item works with my system before buying it? I have purchased 4 additional cameras, one plug module, and 2 light switch modules that do work, but the only way I found those was because I already had one of each provided by adt at install. No way, I’d buy additional from them because the mark up is outrageous. I bought a aeotec switch and it is noticed by my adt system but will not turn on or off by command through the adt system. I’d like to capitalize on the lower cost items but can’t determine if they will work or not prior to purchase.
Hey Dan, Thanks for the comment and I apologize for the delayed reply. ADT Z-wave pulse is a completely different story with Z-wave. This is a closed proprietary system with ADT. I am not very familiar with this platform nor am I very fond of it. Basically it should use any z-wave device but ADT determines what devices and drivers are compatible with it. It is hard to install or buy your own equipment when you are at the mercy of a company like ADT. I am sure you are in a 3-5 year contract but when this is over I would recommend an open platform such as Vera. Cameras are a COMPLETELY different story than Z-wave. It depends if the cameras are analog or IP cameras. Cameras would be about 10 videos just to get a grasp of what is compatible or the different protocols. I am sorry this not the answer you are probably wanting but please let me know if you have any other questions and i'll do my best to answer it.
90% of the time the latency issue doesn't matter, but it sometimes is a friggin headache. The popcorn effect doesn't bother me because i rarely turn on multiple lights simultaneously, and if i do, it's manually. the latency and problems with devices being laggy or getting confused with repetitive fast use is rather annoying.
Very helpful. I'm adding a few zwave switches soon and I feel like I understand the limitations of where I can place them. My GE (Jasco) smart switch is "zwave plus"... what does plus designate? Thank you.
Jerry Thomas Thanks for taking the time to post a comment Jerry. Z-wave plus has some improvement such as longer range, better battery life, over the air updates. What controller are you using?
Your comment about Z-wave traveling at the speed of sound confused me. Are you talking about the data rate of the Z-wave protocol on top of the RF link?
I would put price in the cons category - its so expensive as compared to zigbee. How long does the battery last for z-wave devices? I read somewhere its 10 years? really? Please make a video about "zigbee pros and cons" - thank you
I saw such situation when a lot of new devices had low batteries. Normally not more than 2 years but sometimes less. Service called also some tip about when the device has low range it can consume more energy like in GSM.
After listening to your video I have decided "Not to go with Z-Wave". My house is 3500 ft.² and made of concrete and rebar. I also have a wireless phone system that could be a megahertz range that might interfere. Even Wi-Fi has been a challenge for me but with repeaters I have that pretty much under control. The big reason I was considering Z-Wave is when you lose Internet connection your Wi-Fi devices cannot be changed but Z-Wave would continue working without Internet . So for these reasons I will probably make most of my light switches and dimmer switches manual as well as Wi-Fi. It also seems that Wi-Fi devices are even more available and priced a little better than Z-Wave. I just hope that the Wi-Fi devices will be reliable. Reg Thanks for your video it helped immensely with my buying decision.
I am setting up a home automation system . Intending to purchase Fibaro Controller. kindly advice me on the limitations, how stable is Z- wave. I am looking for a non cloud based System. kindly advice how far I can go with this controller too in terms of expansion if u have ever used it or have an idea about it and of course its credibility
Z-Wave has been around since 2000, it is very stable/robust and with each new advancement, they keep it backward compatible with the previous/older versions. Fibaro I am pretty sure is NOT cloud based, but there certainly are a lot of controllers that require Internet access at all times - not good if your connectivity is spotty.
I need help choosing a good repeater for my ST system. I have the first gen system from samsung and I just moved to a 1500sqft home and having issues with some devices in the garage, mainly is a outlet that I need it to work, but the garage door sensor works and a ge light bulb works, very strange. I have added 2 "repeaters" but I dont think they are doing a good job. I got one from Inovelli which also has an outlet and Remotec ZRP-100NA. Whats your take on this? Thanks.
Ricardo the hub shouldn't have anything to do with the problem communication. It almost seems like your outlet is not properly paired with the ST controller. I suggest first moving the hub into the garage and seeing if it communicates. If it doesn't then I don't think it has anything to do with the zwave network. When you say you bought repeaters did you buy specific zwave repeaters? Any zwave outlet, switch etc will do the same thing as a specific repeater. If other zwave devices nearby are receiving the signal then it should work. You may also want to do a network discovery of heal. I'm not as familiar with Samsung ST but a hub is usually a hub. Let me know if this helps.
I want to purchase a new Garage Door Controller to work with my existing Chamberlin garage door opener. I have AT & T digital life security system. Which Controller should I buy?
The AT&T Digital Life system is a Z-Wave controller, and that is a closed system - e.g. they do not let you add your own devices - you have to call them. If they do not support Garage Door Openers, you are out of luck.
Also, Chamberlain garage door openers use a signal over the two wires to the garage door button so they are not compatible with the Z-Wave Garage Door openers - there is a way to make it work; buy an extra remote control, and solder wires from the button and connect those to the Z-Wave GDO and that will work. I have done it and it works fine, but you need to know that Chamberlain is different. They are, however, working on a native Z-Wave solution.
Bassam A No, that is incorrect. I had over 40 zwave nodes going at my house and have installed over 100 on a job. Hops just repeat the signal to nodes that are further away. So if a device that is further than the possible hop limit than it will not reach it
I was mainly comparing it to more traditional automation systems such as UPB, Lutron, and Crestron. Price is on par with wifi based systems. You can buy z-wave bulbs, switches, and outlets for around $20 USD.
Wow, that is CHEAP! I haven't used Sonoff before. How do you like it? www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Dimmable-Light-LB60Z-1/dp/B00PJH16UC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1513546910&sr=8-4&keywords=z-wave
The only problem with them is the Motion Sensor Part - while it can be soldered on/Integrated they cannot be powered for a long enough time from battery, thus i've been looking for z-wave/zigbee alternatives. But the PIR Prices seem steeper for good sensors.
![Power Automate Beginner to Pro Tutorial [Full Course]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1p5kI7SYz4Q/mqdefault.jpg)
Well done, simple explanation, short and to the point. I’ve been using Micasa Verde/Vera for 9 years. Started with a Vera Lite and upgraded to Vera Edge last year for 2 houses. I love the fact that I can buy from so many different suppliers. Another valuable feature is the world-class support. Anytime I have an issue, I get support within 24 hours most of the time. The ability for me to set remote access to enable their ability to troubleshoot and sometimes even fix the issue themselves is priceless, especially for those that may not have a technical background. Google recently released the ability to integrate the Google Home system with Vera allowing voice control of most all z wave devices.
W, main aapka
Just to clarify a few things:
All battery devices are exempt from participating in routing - not just locks and thermostats.
Locks and thermostats support beaming because they are FLiRS devices (Frequently Listing Routing Slaves), not for security (encryption) purposes - thermostats do not typically use Z-Wave's higher level security, but they still do not participate in routing IF and ONLY IF they use batteries. Thermostats powered by the "C" wire of the furnace do not need or use batteries, and they participate in routing.
Size: 3,000 square feet is not accurate. There is not a practical limit to the size of the home. A Z-Wave device in open-air can transmit 100 meters, which is 328 feet. What limits this is when the signal has to go through walls and other materials. However, even through a few walls, the typical device communicates DIRECTLY with the source device and does not use routing. When you add routing and 4 hops into it, you will see that you can do some REALLY large homes. What determines how well it works is how many devices you have - if you have a large home, you need many devices to build a good mesh network; this is more true with older non Z-Wave Plus devices, but there are 6,000 and even 8,000 square feet homes being done successfully with Z-Wave.
Popcorn effect is caused by consumers buying Z-Wave switches that do not support the Z-Wave Scene commands, or that have older Z-Wave controllers that were not forced to support the Z-Wave Scene Commands (Z-Wave Plus controllers should support this). With a Z-Wave Scene command, a "broadcast" (of sorts) message is sent to all of the devices in a scene, which is created ahead of time and programmed into the devices, and this allows all of the devices in that scene to react at the same time. If you do not use a scene, a controller can still use a type of Z-Wave command that can send a signal to multiple devices at once, and this too eliminates a popcorn effect. Look for devices that have the command class "Scene Activation" in the list of supported command classes at Products.Z-WaveAlliance.org - your controller should also be found there and it should have that command class in the list of "Controlled" command classes.
Latency - Since most Z-Wave devices are communicated to directly, the latency is the round trip time for the command and the acknowledgement to be returned. This is less than a whopping 80ms. Not sure what you are talking about with latency! Even with four hops, the total time approaches 1 second, but is still pretty much instantaneous to humans.
The Z-Wave Alliance does not regulate the manufacturers, it is a grouping of manufacturers (over 600 of them) promoting and using the Z-Wave technology. Sigma Designs, the owner of the Z-Wave technology, regulates manufacturers by requiring interoperability certification before any product can be commercially sold; this means that the device is required to work with devices from other manufacturers. This is one of the key things about Z-Wave - some people do not like that the protocol is not open inside the chip, but if it were, then anybody could create Z-Wave devices without having to make sure they were certified.
There are about 80% as many Z-Wave products certified for the CEPT (European) market as the United States/Canada/Mexico frequency - Z-Wave STARTED in Copenhagen (Europe) and so it is quite popular there; automating homes is what is not as popular in Europe. ;-)
Tink, you are correct on some of the statements in your reply but I would disagree with you on some of it as well. I checked out some of your videos and you are really bright. When I get some time I'll get you a long reply so that the readers can be more educated in this space. I made this video about two years ago and my attention has shifted towards crypto. Thanks for the valuable information and I'll get you a descriptive reply when I get some time!
My replies are direct from Sigma Designs, the owners of the Z-Wave technology.
Yes, I know Sigma Designs and know a couple of the people that work for Sigma Designs. A couple of the differences I would argue is the latency and the size. The latency is not a big deal if you're just turning on lights or other things but it is when you are making triggers. Such as if you want your closet light to come on with an occupancy sensor. That 1-3 second delay is very annoying. You can pair the light directly to the sensor but most people do not know how to do this. You also are not able to blink lights rapidly because of this latency as well. The latency is not much of an issue but can be an issue with certain environments. Having installed Z-wave in probably a thousand or so homes, I am pretty aware of issues that can come about with a home 5k+ square feet. I am good friends with a guy that set up a network of 37 Yale locks and he was only able to accomplish this with 3-4 hubs. You can install Z-wave in larger homes but I just mentioned the 3-4k size home being optimal. I'll elaborate more later...
The latency you mention is due to the hub. If you associate the sensor to the device it is instantaneous, and if you use a good hub it is instantaneous. My son has a sensor on a pantry door, goes back to HomeSeer, and then HomeSeer turns on pantry light - it is instantaneous. It would have a delay if you were routing the signals or went through a slow controller. Locks are another story that you did not clarify very well. To send one signal to a lock, it does 3 transmissions because of encryption. This was address with Security 2 which is in newer devices. So when you mention that latency comes into play in some setups unless you associate the sensor to the device directly (you called it pair) but most people do not know this, then that is an opportunity for a blog article.
Thanks for producing ZWave 101. Great summary of what it is and what it does.
Tyler - Good job! It's worth mentioning that some of the issues you've highlighted are specific to the main controllers being used. For example, the "Size" limitation is only a limitation for a single Z-Wave network. With larger houses (including houses with outbuildings), you can extend the range (and maximum number of devices) by adding more Z-Wave interfaces (like our Z-NET). Latency and the "Popcorn" effect can also be minimized (dramatically) by using a controller with a fast CPU that processes all automation functions locally. Latency in our HomeTrollers is typically measured in milliseconds; NOT seconds! Remotely managed "smart hubs" tend to have the biggest latency since automation functions are processed off-site on a shared web service.
HomeSeerOfficial Thank you for the comment HomeSeer. I've been aware of your product for a long time but never had a chance to test out. So basically is the Z-Net acting as an additional huh and then it communicates to the main hub via IP? I've done large builds using multiple Vera units. This fixed the hop limit and allowed multiple transmission points. Only a few controllers on the market are about to do this. You are absolutely correct about remote managed hubs being slower than a locally processed unit. However, you would still have a popcorn effect, but it would be minimized. There is only one way that I know of that completely eliminates the"popcorn effect" in Z-WAVE. Again, I appreciate the information.
Tyler - the Z-NET is not acting as an independent hub. It's just a Z-Wave interface. Think of it as a network-addressable Z-Wave dongle. You only need one of our hubs ("HomeTrollers") running 1 instance of our software. Our software supports multiple networks and will talk to as many Z-NETs as necessary. This keeps everything centrally managed. As for the "popcorn" effect, I used to see that when I used X10 lamp modules on the 3 lights in my living room. Now, my 3 Z-Wave bulbs come on instantaneously... at least I can't perceive that effect. In fact, I would have to look at the event to know which bulb is first in the event sequence (NOT kidding!)..
I have 3 lights scattered across the front of my house that all come on at the same time using the HS Znet. I have yet to get a 'popcorn' moment. The closest to the HS is about 10 feet, the farthest is 40-45 feet but there are other devices in between.
Thank you. Your video showed me that z-wave is not for me at time. You could have saved me a lot of money and pain.
Thanks for taking the time to post a comment James. I'm glad you got some use out of the video and can save time and head ache.
Tyler, I have been using z-wave since the first chip set and now have almost an entire house based on zwave plus. The range issue you mention might be relevant but I can tell you in my home that has a perimeter of 50-70 feet and interoperates on living and basement levels. My controller is centrally located (more or less) and of my 90 zwave deivces all but 2 are direct to the z-net zwave controller.
Richard Morton Richard, Z-wave plus has made some much needed improvements with Z-wave. I made this video before it was really introduced. Not all manufacturers have moved to zwave plus yet. It also depends on interferences with the RF signals. A lot of people think I'm against zwave, which I'm not at all. I've just done some nightmare installs that people need to consider before committing to a certain technology
You seem to not like zwave much and zigbee so whats your gold standard/preferred method of home automation?
Actually, Ben Z-wave is one of my favorite. I just wanted to be as transparent as possible about the pros and cons on it. I have a good mix of z-wave for my home. This depends on what we are talking about... If we are talking just lighting, then I actually really like UPB. Lutron is a very solid solution but I'm not a big fan of the company or the price. Z-wave is great for 95% of cases but there are just some cons you have to factor in before you choose the technology best for you. Home automation can be very expensive and it is important to choose wisely!
A great overview to help decide if z wave will be a good fit for your application.
Good video, thanks. I do have a few comments concerning distance limits of the Z-Wave mesh network. In my experience, even without using the mesh network, with most devices (I have tested/used dozens in 3 different Smart Home installations), Z-Wave does support distances of 50 to 100 feet depending on the environment. Also, latency issues seem to have more to do with the controller type and its configuration (cloud based or local control based, devices used in the automation, etc.). In most cases, a typical Z-Wave switch can be configured so that latency or the delay to react to a command is less than 1 second.
EcoNet Controls Nice shut off valve Econet ;) . Yes, you are correct it matters with the environment you are installing zwave. I have installed zwave in a 100 or so homes and sometimes it went 50 feet or sometimes it only went 15. Zwave plus has improved these distances considerably. Yes, you are correct with a cloud based controller or LAN connection it will definitely change the speed of zwave. Thanks for watching!
Hmm, do any of your Smart Home installations include a water shut solution? (prevent water damage!). Let me know if you are interested in our Bulldog Valve Robot demo kit, and/or dealer discounts. ballen@econetcontrols.com. Cheers! (I tried to private message but it does not seem possible through UA-cam)
EcoNet Controls I have done a decent amount of shut off valves. I have always used the Fortrezz shut off. Cool, I'll send you an email.
Good information. Thank you for sharing. Have been curious for a while, how do you know what items on z-wave work with a certain system? I have pulse and when I called adt they had referred me to their webpage which list a pretty dull amount of compatible devices for the system. When you call a manufacturer they tell you it should work but it doesn’t. Is there a way to determine what zwave item works with my system before buying it? I have purchased 4 additional cameras, one plug module, and 2 light switch modules that do work, but the only way I found those was because I already had one of each provided by adt at install. No way, I’d buy additional from them because the mark up is outrageous. I bought a aeotec switch and it is noticed by my adt system but will not turn on or off by command through the adt system. I’d like to capitalize on the lower cost items but can’t determine if they will work or not prior to purchase.
Hey Dan, Thanks for the comment and I apologize for the delayed reply. ADT Z-wave pulse is a completely different story with Z-wave. This is a closed proprietary system with ADT. I am not very familiar with this platform nor am I very fond of it. Basically it should use any z-wave device but ADT determines what devices and drivers are compatible with it. It is hard to install or buy your own equipment when you are at the mercy of a company like ADT. I am sure you are in a 3-5 year contract but when this is over I would recommend an open platform such as Vera. Cameras are a COMPLETELY different story than Z-wave. It depends if the cameras are analog or IP cameras. Cameras would be about 10 videos just to get a grasp of what is compatible or the different protocols. I am sorry this not the answer you are probably wanting but please let me know if you have any other questions and i'll do my best to answer it.
90% of the time the latency issue doesn't matter, but it sometimes is a friggin headache. The popcorn effect doesn't bother me because i rarely turn on multiple lights simultaneously, and if i do, it's manually. the latency and problems with devices being laggy or getting confused with repetitive fast use is rather annoying.
Thank you so much for this! I'm in the process of setting up an automated home and this was very useful.
Steve Streza Really glad you got some use out of this video. feel free to post any questions that I might be able to answer.
Very helpful. I'm adding a few zwave switches soon and I feel like I understand the limitations of where I can place them. My GE (Jasco) smart switch is "zwave plus"... what does plus designate? Thank you.
Jerry Thomas Thanks for taking the time to post a comment Jerry. Z-wave plus has some improvement such as longer range, better battery life, over the air updates. What controller are you using?
Your comment about Z-wave traveling at the speed of sound confused me. Are you talking about the data rate of the Z-wave protocol on top of the RF link?
I would put price in the cons category - its so expensive as compared to zigbee. How long does the battery last for z-wave devices? I read somewhere its 10 years? really? Please make a video about "zigbee pros and cons" - thank you
I saw such situation when a lot of new devices had low batteries. Normally not more than 2 years but sometimes less. Service called also some tip about when the device has low range it can consume more energy like in GSM.
After listening to your video I have decided "Not to go with Z-Wave". My house is 3500 ft.² and made of concrete and rebar. I also have a wireless phone system that could be a megahertz range that might interfere. Even Wi-Fi has been a challenge for me but with repeaters I have that pretty much under control.
The big reason I was considering Z-Wave is when you lose Internet connection your Wi-Fi devices cannot be changed but Z-Wave would continue working without Internet .
So for these reasons I will probably make most of my light switches and dimmer switches manual as well as Wi-Fi.
It also seems that Wi-Fi devices are even more available and priced a little better than Z-Wave. I just hope that the Wi-Fi devices will be reliable.
Reg
Thanks for your video it helped immensely with my buying decision.
What is the distance range between operator and devices
I am setting up a home automation system . Intending to purchase Fibaro Controller. kindly advice me on the limitations, how stable is Z- wave. I am looking for a non cloud based System. kindly advice how far I can go with this controller too in terms of expansion if u have ever used it or have an idea about it and of course its credibility
Z-Wave has been around since 2000, it is very stable/robust and with each new advancement, they keep it backward compatible with the previous/older versions. Fibaro I am pretty sure is NOT cloud based, but there certainly are a lot of controllers that require Internet access at all times - not good if your connectivity is spotty.
Amazing video, thank you
lowes demo glad you got something out of it. Thanks for watching
Zwaves mesh network is key with improving range.
I need help choosing a good repeater for my ST system. I have the first gen system from samsung and I just moved to a 1500sqft home and having issues with some devices in the garage, mainly is a outlet that I need it to work, but the garage door sensor works and a ge light bulb works, very strange. I have added 2 "repeaters" but I dont think they are doing a good job. I got one from Inovelli which also has an outlet and Remotec ZRP-100NA. Whats your take on this? Thanks.
Ricardo the hub shouldn't have anything to do with the problem communication. It almost seems like your outlet is not properly paired with the ST controller. I suggest first moving the hub into the garage and seeing if it communicates. If it doesn't then I don't think it has anything to do with the zwave network. When you say you bought repeaters did you buy specific zwave repeaters? Any zwave outlet, switch etc will do the same thing as a specific repeater. If other zwave devices nearby are receiving the signal then it should work. You may also want to do a network discovery of heal. I'm not as familiar with Samsung ST but a hub is usually a hub. Let me know if this helps.
Great job!
I want to purchase a new Garage Door Controller to work with my existing Chamberlin garage door opener. I have AT & T digital life security system. Which Controller should I buy?
The AT&T Digital Life system is a Z-Wave controller, and that is a closed system - e.g. they do not let you add your own devices - you have to call them. If they do not support Garage Door Openers, you are out of luck.
Also, Chamberlain garage door openers use a signal over the two wires to the garage door button so they are not compatible with the Z-Wave Garage Door openers - there is a way to make it work; buy an extra remote control, and solder wires from the button and connect those to the Z-Wave GDO and that will work. I have done it and it works fine, but you need to know that Chamberlain is different. They are, however, working on a native Z-Wave solution.
When you say limited to 4 hops, does that mean I can only control 4 separate devices in my home?
Bassam A No, that is incorrect. I had over 40 zwave nodes going at my house and have installed over 100 on a job. Hops just repeat the signal to nodes that are further away. So if a device that is further than the possible hop limit than it will not reach it
Tyler D thank you.
Price seems to be a little steep when comparing to Wifi Based devices, thus more like a cons.
I was mainly comparing it to more traditional automation systems such as UPB, Lutron, and Crestron. Price is on par with wifi based systems. You can buy z-wave bulbs, switches, and outlets for around $20 USD.
Can you point me to them? the Sonoffs i'm buying cost me usually like 5-7$..
Wow, that is CHEAP! I haven't used Sonoff before. How do you like it?
www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Dimmable-Light-LB60Z-1/dp/B00PJH16UC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1513546910&sr=8-4&keywords=z-wave
They are very cool if you're tech enough to flash them with some open firmware like tasmota.
The only problem with them is the Motion Sensor Part - while it can be soldered on/Integrated they cannot be powered for a long enough time from battery, thus i've been looking for z-wave/zigbee alternatives. But the PIR Prices seem steeper for good sensors.
Stopped watching at "Radio travels at the speed of sound" otherwise decent info.
Paul Poteat Yes, I messed up on that part. Had this way wrong. Z-wave is much slower than some of the other technologies though.
For crying out loud put the caps back on your markers or they'll dry out!!