I was taught by my flight instructors to not leave the hydraulic parking brake engaged, as a significant rise in temperature on a summer day can cause the seals in the brake pistons to blow out, and then you have no brakes at all. With that in mind, this brake lever lock is a non-starter, regardless of how good the lock cylinder is.
That doesn't make any sense. I think this myth has been busted. All cars used to be manual and any time you parked one on a hill you leave the parking break engaged, usually on flat ground as well. Never had a caliper explode on any of my manual cars. Also I'm sure there's far more pressure on cars and motorcycles, even with stock breaks on the race track and warped caliper pistons are not common.
I would be astonished if this were anything other than an old pilot wives' tale. Mil-PRF-5606 hydraulic oil has a coefficient of thermal expansion of 0.046% per degree Fahrenheit. That is, for every 2,174 degrees F it is heated, it expands 1%. Which makes sense. Think about how hot a brake caliper can get during normal operation. If thermal expansion over the temperature range of natural weather could blow out seals, then thermal expansion at braking temperatures would lock the calipers and blow the whole hydraulic system apart.
Its a bad idea to keep this on your front brake i found out personaly . i keeped this on my bike for 1 day and when i came to ride it my front brake leaver came right in to my bars i found i had to pump the brake leaver a few times to get brakeing pressure and force back
I suspect the primary purpose of this lock is to transfer capital to the maker from the buyer. After that its a paperweight. A quality disk lock prevents most thieves from riding it away, a hardened chain to an anchor point prevents most thieves from lifting it into a truck. Those are the two realistic options. I've seen you use a thread extractor on disk locks. Mine has a 14mm pin with a milled part at the end of it that locks into the other side of the lock, so that would make it a lot stronger against that form of attack. At least I hope so. As long as you don't do a video on that one I can believe its true. So thanks!
I have a discus lock like this without the notch. I wasn't quite sure how to tension before seeing this. thanks. Also, agree on how easy it would be to bypass
I think it would be better for the manufacturer to market this as an additional locking mechanism added to the disk clamp lock, and the handlebar lock included in the bikes features. Just using one lock is silly if you ask me... When I have to leave my Harley completely unattended I will use a disk lock on both breakdisks, the handlebar lock, and a heavy Chain and Padlock. Just because a lock will not stop everyone from stealing it. Only slow them down, and with each added lock I put on it slows them or detours them a bit longer. Maybe just long enough.
Steel Pinnings agreed. i have a gas bike and an electric bike. i use a kryptonite 1510 chain and lock (you could beat a water buffalo into submission with that chain), a smaller kryptonite chain for the wheel or quick in the line of sight lock ups, i also have a bully brand ulock with an alarm and pager with a 2000 foot range. the security i use accounts for about 10-20% of the value of the assets i protect with it. theft is not common where i live, but its not rare either. people really dont do enough to lock up their bikes. motorcycles or otherwise.
I thwarted a possible theft of my bike once with a post-it note. Was on a long trip and had to park in a rather sketchy area where several bikes had already been stolen. I wrote a note and taped it over the gauges that said, "Parts ordered. Unsafe. Do Not Ride!!!" Two mornings later, the bike nearby was stolen, despite being chained up. Mine was still there. Maybe the other bike was just more tempting but...I still laugh about it.
r. decline I like that... I had a guy trying to pry my door ajar and get it open as I was walking up after leaving the club with some friends... Anyway I went up acting like I wanted to help and split the haul. and right away he asked me if I had a Jimmy for the door... and I said I have something better! he said what? ? I said the Keys!!! Took a few seconds but he caught on pretty quickly and ran away. lol
One way to it, but it still has a steering column lock. Just load it onto a truck, nobody would blink an eye when you fumble around the keyhole with a key that looks like the original one and then load it up
One thing aluminum has working for It, is that, yes it's soft. But, it's also very gummy. Even if you put a little lubricant on your hacksaw blade, you will still need to stop, and pick the aluminum out, because it will slow down while cutting very rapidly. Using a grinder is even worse. That will gum up rapidly, lubrication or not. I do believe that aluminum could work in stopping a thief if the area that is going to be attacked with a cutting tool is very thick.
I've been using a grip lock for years with good results. It's premise is to deter attack by little scrotes who break your steering lock and then push the bike away; one guy rides the stolen bike, the other pushes it from a scooter riding alongside. They could release the fluid pressure but then they have no means of stopping if something goes pear shaped. The original grip lock has hardened steel rods embedded into the casing that destroy hacksaws after a few strokes. Can't comment on the Chinese imitations but they probably suck.
Most opportunist thieves will just walk away its a deterrent play might be able to get into it but it's going to take him a little bit Twerk it and he might not want to take that time yeah it'll help 9 times out of 10 if a person is just walking past and see that he might just keep walking but if he really wants it he's going to have to work at it for a few minutes people might see that and wonder what's going on plus lock the handlebars plus put a lock by the brake chamber on the will that help as well just more added support for security
Youre're right that the new version of the HUK tool set that Banggood sells does not have tensioning pin at all. The set with (the crappy plastic) training lock however was still recently with the removable tensioning pin. Because I have both sets, I used a drop of glue to secure the pins on my tool. Loose pins tended to drop out easily before gluing. I use the other set when I need no pin.
I agree 100%. As a motorcycle rider, I know that defeating the front brake would be fairly easy and quick if you just clipped the brake line. A decent disc brake lock would be a far more effective method of securing a bike. But even with those, enterprising crooks can just pick up a bike and put it into the back of a truck if you have the manpower. Plus I bet you could cut that lock where the brake lever sits with a battery powered Dremel or even a part of a hacksaw blade. All in all, not the best way to ensure you will still have a bike in the morning.
Nice picking LPLAWYER! This lock isn't any good by itself Although if you were to use it in unison with additional lock types then you will have more security and a necessity for the thief to overcome various other locks which may result in the thief giving up due to the extra time it would take to defeat the various other locks. Keep on picking!
I think it's meant to lock the clutch lever? Then you can't start it since many bikes require you to pull the clutch to run the starter? You also can't ride off since you need the clutch to be able to get moving or you'll just stall. Right?
I think you forgot... These locks can go on the clutch side also... of course a curb, center stand, or other considerations should be used to adjust for gravity, but merely cutting the clutch label is much more detrimental to riding off.
I keep mine on the clutch. Like others say, these are just detergents. But, with the clutch in and the steering locked you can only push it around in circles lol
John I have this and a disk brake lock with an alarm right now if I have to park my motorcycle unattended for a long period of time. Thinking of adding a heavy chain/ padlock on the rear wheel
I once changed my bike lever. It's held in place with one completely unprotected bolt + nut, so with normal wrenches this lock could be defeated without even the slightest damage to the bike.
Need the name of that town, Climate and weather consistency. Oh and is it easy to find work. I am over living in the city. Been here my entire life and looking for some peace in my later years.
I came for this video because I’ve been seeing Facebook ads for these, WINX Wheels specifically. The premise is a terrible idea, like you said going after the breaking system itself is stupid easy. I’d go with a rotor lock before this one.
I just watched an urban Hawk Chinese mechanical lock video this 16 year old kid showed some pretty amazing Chinese locks one of them had 48 Sliders in it. Sure would like to see you pick some of these what look to be pick proof locks. Some of them the core spins unless you put the key in it so you can't tension it. I hope you read this message have a great day
On a motorcycle you park the bike in gear and put this on the left grip, capturing the clutch lever so it can't be pulled and the bike rolled away or shifted into neutral. It's a good idea. I wish LPL would have explained if the lock core can be replaced with a more secure one.
I would have to protest as I've had to ride 30 miles on a broken clutch cable. you can blip the bike out of gear and push it off in neutral. If you can get around the clutch in to start switch. I'm pretty sure that's as easy as cutting the two wires and twisting them together. Your already cutting wires and popping fuses to hot jump it might as well splice the clutch wire together lol. I rather think someone and a few buddies are going to pick it up and toss it in the pack of a pick up amd deal with all that at home in a closed garage. Also on all bikes, Simi auto and manual you can rock the bike in and out of neutral with out using the clutch. You can go -1-n-1-n-2-n-1 if you want, if you have the normal 1down and so many up or 1up and so many down or all down like motogp speed shifter or all up like the old school quads. You can rock through all the gears. Lol do you even ride. Notice that wasn't a question. Even with all that being said I think it would be easier to use it as it was designed. To lock the throttle at 0.00% to stall any engine movement and the front breaks locked completely depressed to lock the front the front end up. This with your front locked like they should be would make the bike very difficult to move. It would be easier to push it over and slide it around on the plastics or frame. If you've ever worked on a bike you would know the ins and outs of moving one without the help of a motor and how the gears work and if you actually rode you wouldn't have made your first statement. You commented and gave your ignorant opinion and spewed it as fact. All while knowing you didn't know shit. That's what we call a squid. Something else you would know. Shame on you. With all the love in the world, A real rider.
Locks keep honest people honest, and now the kid down the street can't roll my bike around... I also see it as a parking brake. A key, why not?! Do I think it is the best security idea? Well, thank you for proving my suspicions =o)
My thought on the parking brake as well, yeah the transmission with hold the bike in gear, but on really steep hills, the thought of locking the brake top is a nice thing in my opinion. I never understood why quads had the ability to lock the brake lever as a parking brake, but motorcycles don’t.
Peterson's tubular picks say they could pick these type of locks with different spring pressure. I've seen them on the site for awhile. Do you think you could do a review so you could let us know if it's true of not?
Most brake levers on motorbikes will not fully compress. I think that lock is designed for the clutch lever on the left-hand side of the handlebars (regardless of what the marketing department has seen fit to espouse). I also think that this lock is designed to be used not on its own but in conjunction with another lock, perhaps securing the brake disc or the bike frame to an immovable object. I think this lock has been specifically designed to prevent the bike being started and ridden away. Well, that's what I think. That's my two penneth.
Well one on break one on clutch with 2 alarmed disk locks and additional abus alarmbox in city.... Added 14mm oxford hexagonal chain when in garage...Surely there are easier targets than my bike
The main idea with a lock like this, is not to be the sole security, because as mentioned, its easily defeated. The idea is to use this in addition to other security measures such as a disk lock or two, an alarm, and whatever else. Its meant to add to the inconvenience and complexity of stealing the bike.
Your comment gave me the idea to use this lock with a disk lock, by running the reminder cable through the handlebar lock. Can't accidentally forget the disk lock is there when it's cable and your brake lever are being held hostage 😂
you could just set which ever wheel is locked up on to a wheeled moving platform and off you go. you can grab one on amazon for less than $60 or if your handy with tools you could easily build your own for alot less.
but i was told to put this lock on the clutch in 1st gear and not the brake. if the clutch is locked you cant really move the bike by rolling it. im new to this and about to get my first bike. please advise
I have this on my motorbike (on the clutch lever) simply to provide a visual deterrent to the opportunist-type and a simple additional hindrance to the determined-type. I also have a simple brake-disc lock on the front wheel (as a visual deterrent and hinderance) and a 12mm linked chain with sturdy padlock looped through the back wheel and frame (as the main security element). One thing in favour of my bike is that it has a very comprehensive immobiliser and it is keyless so cannot be sold on as a working bike, it would certainly only be suitable for parting out but who parts out a cheap Chinese motorbike?
Nice picking, but you would never see that lock on my Harley. thefts are smart, they just take two long steal bars and one goes through the front of the frame, the other in the rear, four guys just lift it right into a pickup, or trailer. But where here for learning the art of picking. Well i hope so. 🔫
The only thing any lock does, yes even the best out there, is keep an honest man honest. If someone wants to steal something they generally find a way.
I'd like to see him have a go at the Ruko Garant+ www.ruko.dk/Other/Ruko_dk/Downloads/Illustrationer/Produkter/Gennemsk%c3%a5ret_cylinder_Garantplus.jpg That one has counter milled key pin chambers, balanced pin stacks, ASSA barrel spools up top, and 10 side bar pins to keep him busy for a couple of hours.
Its cause you could lock up your tires. It needs to have ABSOLUTELY MINIMAL gripping force, only enough to hold the car still on a hill, otherwise some dumbass would try to stop with it and drift.
parking brake also works as an emergency brake if for some reason you lose both your brake circuits, and in EU the parking brake has to hold the car still in a 20% gradient hill
In USA the parking brake must not rely on hydraulic pressure which can develop leak and allow vehicle to roll. It must instead rely on mechanical force. This is almost verbatim from the DOT handbook.
Pretty much all bikes come with an adjustment which allows you to change the brake controls with your hands, gloved even, an whilst you're at a stop light. It makes it easy to change your clutch biting point or your brakes, but it also renders that device irrelevant. I have never owned a bike which hasn't had that mechanism, from my first learning bike older than myself to my modern high end bike they have all universally had that adjustment.
I live in a very calm and safe town, the only reason I use one of those, is to lock my helmet, with the steel wire provided with it. So I can go for a walk in the beach, without having to carry my helmet.
Making the lock with springs of different tension would cost more, so they don't do it. Not a cost that anyone would notice when they pass it onto the consumer, but the typical corporate mindset is "why not charge the price for the more expensive version while making it with the cheaper stuff?"
As you pointed out, they are useless. Too easy to bleed the brake fluid. All you need is one small allen key and half a turn to bleem them damage free.
So.. we got a useless mechanism combined with a useless lock? D: But the real question is: ARE YOU A REAL LAWYER? Been asking me this for quite some time. xD Oh, and what kind of camera do you use? The zooming action would indicate some DSLR with a zoom lens - is that correct? ^^ I am looking for a new setup for my channel as recording with my mobile phone really drives me nuts with all kind of issues.
LockPickingLawyer The lock is disappointing, your answers are not. :D @iPhone: Just shows me that my phone camera really sucks. One more question: Do you know of any those tubular locks featuring real security pins like serrateds, spools, etc?
Are you sure putting different springs REALLY mitigates the problem? The requirement for the tool is that binding pins should be able to push the rods up but the spring tension shouldn't. If you add a strong spring perhaps you need to add more rubber rings but there is probably an order of magnitude difference in force from binding pins and the spring force. So I can't see why this design couldn't work always regardless of springs and security pins, as long as you can adjust the force required for the pins to slip. Different springs may make the attack slower, but I doubt it couldn't work. The big flaw is that the pins are exposed. You could do this attack against any pin tumbler or dimple lock too, except the design of the required tool would be more intricate (but hardly impossible -- I'm sure you are very aware of the Chinese aluminum foil kits) . Please educate me if I'm missing something here... :-) TLDR: I think this attack always works in principle and the design of the tubular lock is inherently flawed due to the pins being so exposed.
the lock is a weak spot, here. obviously easily picked for someone with a bit of skill or the proper tool. however many opportunistic thieves have not the skill or tools. i like it for its high visibility in bright orange and "wtf is that" factor. and as another poster mentioned i do not use it on the brake side....but the clutch side. so even if you get the bike started somehow how you gonna engage the clutch to get it going? i use disc locks front and rear for the "push steal" deterrent, and a padlock and chain when practical. its all i can do, really. but using this on the clutch side and the disc locks alone at least take care of a couple of hurdles a potential thief may have to jump whether they get your bike started or not
The brake lever is also relatively easy to saw through with even the worst hacksaw. One could even use 12 inch bolt cutters to clip them. While I like the Idea of the lock, there are simply too many ways to defeat it and this should've never been put on the market in my opinion. I feel sorry for those who purchased this and had their Bikes stolen in spite of it. It just goes to show that there are No Morality involved in some of these business practices.
![[696] Viro Totem Motorcycle Lock Picked and Gutted (Model 4150)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/y1xA0MD4Vos/mqdefault.jpg)
![[696] Viro Totem Motorcycle Lock Picked and Gutted (Model 4150)](/img/tr.png)
![[480] The Top Ten Nastiest Keyways (In My Collection)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/GncYzuRMtb8/mqdefault.jpg)
I was taught by my flight instructors to not leave the hydraulic parking brake engaged, as a significant rise in temperature on a summer day can cause the seals in the brake pistons to blow out, and then you have no brakes at all. With that in mind, this brake lever lock is a non-starter, regardless of how good the lock cylinder is.
I would love to see your flying motorbike......
That doesn't make any sense. I think this myth has been busted. All cars used to be manual and any time you parked one on a hill you leave the parking break engaged, usually on flat ground as well. Never had a caliper explode on any of my manual cars. Also I'm sure there's far more pressure on cars and motorcycles, even with stock breaks on the race track and warped caliper pistons are not common.
@@ShomariDeluccio- Parking brakes on old cars are purely mechanical and don't involve the hydraulic systems at all, so the seals cannot blow out.
I would be astonished if this were anything other than an old pilot wives' tale. Mil-PRF-5606 hydraulic oil has a coefficient of thermal expansion of 0.046% per degree Fahrenheit. That is, for every 2,174 degrees F it is heated, it expands 1%.
Which makes sense. Think about how hot a brake caliper can get during normal operation. If thermal expansion over the temperature range of natural weather could blow out seals, then thermal expansion at braking temperatures would lock the calipers and blow the whole hydraulic system apart.
I like the motorcycle security aspect. It's an area where we could really use your expertise.
Constant pressure on the braking system seems like a poor idea.
Agreed.
Ancient bike mech here and it's not a problem unless your brakes have problems! martinc1966 is correct. I use bungees instead of zip ties.
Yes I agree totally. Lessons life of brake cable. Constant pressure. I say no to that.
Its a bad idea to keep this on your front brake i found out personaly . i keeped this on my bike for 1 day and when i came to ride it my front brake leaver came right in to my bars i found i had to pump the brake leaver a few times to get brakeing pressure and force back
@@keltthomas8476 what
Hand break locks are generally for a visual deterrent in my experience
pretty much
Unforgivable indeed,great review brother . Thanks for taking the time to share it with us and of course great picking as well!
"That is an unforgivable sin"
Absolutely couldn't have worded this any better.
could just do a wheelie away with it
LOL. Stealth... I like it.
try that with my 250kg bmw r1150rt ..lol
@@davidhaney1394 no
If it's duel braking scooter you wont be able to do that
@@rokhnroll dual
I suspect the primary purpose of this lock is to transfer capital to the maker from the buyer. After that its a paperweight. A quality disk lock prevents most thieves from riding it away, a hardened chain to an anchor point prevents most thieves from lifting it into a truck. Those are the two realistic options. I've seen you use a thread extractor on disk locks. Mine has a 14mm pin with a milled part at the end of it that locks into the other side of the lock, so that would make it a lot stronger against that form of attack. At least I hope so. As long as you don't do a video on that one I can believe its true. So thanks!
I have a discus lock like this without the notch. I wasn't quite sure how to tension before seeing this. thanks. Also, agree on how easy it would be to bypass
I think it would be better for the manufacturer to market this as an additional locking mechanism added to the disk clamp lock, and the handlebar lock included in the bikes features. Just using one lock is silly if you ask me... When I have to leave my Harley completely unattended I will use a disk lock on both breakdisks, the handlebar lock, and a heavy Chain and Padlock. Just because a lock will not stop everyone from stealing it. Only slow them down, and with each added lock I put on it slows them or detours them a bit longer. Maybe just long enough.
Steel Pinnings I agree with you on that
That's a fair point... as an additional locking mechanism, it certainly can't hurt.
Steel Pinnings agreed. i have a gas bike and an electric bike. i use a kryptonite 1510 chain and lock (you could beat a water buffalo into submission with that chain), a smaller kryptonite chain for the wheel or quick in the line of sight lock ups, i also have a bully brand ulock with an alarm and pager with a 2000 foot range. the security i use accounts for about 10-20% of the value of the assets i protect with it. theft is not common where i live, but its not rare either. people really dont do enough to lock up their bikes. motorcycles or otherwise.
I thwarted a possible theft of my bike once with a post-it note. Was on a long trip and had to park in a rather sketchy area where several bikes had already been stolen. I wrote a note and taped it over the gauges that said, "Parts ordered. Unsafe. Do Not Ride!!!" Two mornings later, the bike nearby was stolen, despite being chained up. Mine was still there. Maybe the other bike was just more tempting but...I still laugh about it.
r. decline I like that...
I had a guy trying to pry my door ajar and get it open as I was walking up after leaving the club with some friends... Anyway I went up acting like I wanted to help and split the haul. and right away he asked me if I had a Jimmy for the door... and I said I have something better! he said what? ? I said the Keys!!!
Took a few seconds but he caught on pretty quickly and ran away. lol
Great video and learning expirence. You make it look easy. Thanks for the vid looking foward to next one.
Thanks.
I would hit the bleeder valve. Take off with the bike and worry about lock when safe. Advantage is there’s nothing broken to fix.
One way to it, but it still has a steering column lock. Just load it onto a truck, nobody would blink an eye when you fumble around the keyhole with a key that looks like the original one and then load it up
One thing aluminum has working for It, is that, yes it's soft. But, it's also very gummy. Even if you put a little lubricant on your hacksaw blade, you will still need to stop, and pick the aluminum out, because it will slow down while cutting very rapidly. Using a grinder is even worse. That will gum up rapidly, lubrication or not. I do believe that aluminum could work in stopping a thief if the area that is going to be attacked with a cutting tool is very thick.
One of those wire emergency survival saws would cut this off in seconds. No need for a big hacksaw.
Hmmmmm interesting... *looks on thicc Abus 96CSTI/60 in my hand*
I've been using a grip lock for years with good results. It's premise is to deter attack by little scrotes who break your steering lock and then push the bike away; one guy rides the stolen bike, the other pushes it from a scooter riding alongside. They could release the fluid pressure but then they have no means of stopping if something goes pear shaped. The original grip lock has hardened steel rods embedded into the casing that destroy hacksaws after a few strokes. Can't comment on the Chinese imitations but they probably suck.
Motorcycles have foot brakes so that brake will still work.... ... This lock is stupid.
They can still sue the rear brake. Most likely they would just drag your bike into a van anyway
Most opportunist thieves will just walk away its a deterrent play might be able to get into it but it's going to take him a little bit Twerk it and he might not want to take that time yeah it'll help 9 times out of 10 if a person is just walking past and see that he might just keep walking but if he really wants it he's going to have to work at it for a few minutes people might see that and wonder what's going on plus lock the handlebars plus put a lock by the brake chamber on the will that help as well just more added support for security
@@tdmjason rear brake is weak. Speed up your bike and try to stop with rear brake and see how it goes.
Youre're right that the new version of the HUK tool set that Banggood sells does not have tensioning pin at all. The set with (the crappy plastic) training lock however was still recently with the removable tensioning pin.
Because I have both sets, I used a drop of glue to secure the pins on my tool. Loose pins tended to drop out easily before gluing. I use the other set when I need no pin.
You do know about the set screw to hold the pin in place, right?
I really enjoy these videos; they’re really enjoyable and informative. I’m still surprised I haven’t seen anyone say you enable thieves.
My guess is most thieves are not going to bother picking when a brute force attack would work.
I agree 100%. As a motorcycle rider, I know that defeating the front brake would be fairly easy and quick if you just clipped the brake line. A decent disc brake lock would be a far more effective method of securing a bike. But even with those, enterprising crooks can just pick up a bike and put it into the back of a truck if you have the manpower.
Plus I bet you could cut that lock where the brake lever sits with a battery powered Dremel or even a part of a hacksaw blade.
All in all, not the best way to ensure you will still have a bike in the morning.
Great explanation and great picking as always LPL.
Thanks.
Nice picking LPLAWYER! This lock isn't any good by itself Although if you were to use it in unison with additional lock types then you will have more security and a necessity for the thief to overcome various other locks which may result in the thief giving up due to the extra time it would take to defeat the various other locks. Keep on picking!
Fair point.
why damage the brake? Just use dolly under the front wheel....
Id like to see that
Pro speaking.
Alarm the bike with alarm disk lock and additional movement sensor alarm
great video m8 i have the same set of tubular picks.in fact i got mine because of ur review of them👍😊😊
Thanks.
I think it's meant to lock the clutch lever? Then you can't start it since many bikes require you to pull the clutch to run the starter? You also can't ride off since you need the clutch to be able to get moving or you'll just stall. Right?
Still push it onto a trailer though.
Park with it in low gear.
I know this was three years ago, but was this guy okay? He seemed a bit off in this video. Was he sick?
Really good video indeed. What lock setup would you suggest? Old school thick chain in wheel or something out there in the market you have eyes on?
what about a magnetic lock, with a magnetic key in the same pole, that repels the lock walls to let the key pass inside?
how would that help if someone tries to pick it with non magnetic tools??
@@HECKproductions you wouldn't be able to open the lock to insert Te lockpick
The magnetic lock door would be closed. So picking it would be impossible.
I think you forgot... These locks can go on the clutch side also... of course a curb, center stand, or other considerations should be used to adjust for gravity, but merely cutting the clutch label is much more detrimental to riding off.
I keep mine on the clutch. Like others say, these are just detergents. But, with the clutch in and the steering locked you can only push it around in circles lol
i have this with a disc lock on the front wheel, and a kryptonite lock on the back wheel. wtf else you suppose to do?
John I have this and a disk brake lock with an alarm right now if I have to park my motorcycle unattended for a long period of time. Thinking of adding a heavy chain/ padlock on the rear wheel
Won’t this leave the brake light on draining the battery?
If you cut the front break and got the bike started, you could still safely ride away using the rear brake, which is controlled with a foot lever.
I once changed my bike lever. It's held in place with one completely unprotected bolt + nut, so with normal wrenches this lock could be defeated without even the slightest damage to the bike.
I changed my Kawasaki 100cc 2 stroke for new grips and there is 2 bolts holding the brake and throttle to the steering bar.
your voice is soooooo GOOD!
Thanks.
Great video glad you are automotive smart👍👍
I’m fortunate. My biggest security advantage is living in small town, rural America where things don’t get stolen 😅
Need the name of that town, Climate and weather consistency. Oh and is it easy to find work. I am over living in the city. Been here my entire life and looking for some peace in my later years.
I would think this would be usefull when out and set it with the lock down. That would make it more inconvenient to pick and keep the weather out.
I came for this video because I’ve been seeing Facebook ads for these, WINX Wheels specifically. The premise is a terrible idea, like you said going after the breaking system itself is stupid easy. I’d go with a rotor lock before this one.
I just watched an urban Hawk Chinese mechanical lock video this 16 year old kid showed some pretty amazing Chinese locks one of them had 48 Sliders in it. Sure would like to see you pick some of these what look to be pick proof locks. Some of them the core spins unless you put the key in it so you can't tension it. I hope you read this message have a great day
another great video. :))
Thanks.
So safe to say I shouldn't use this on my mountain bike??
Does it harm on scooters disc brakes?
I wonder how well this lock would fair against the screw-extractor attack, given the aluminium housing?
Hello LPL INCREDIBLE REVIEW please keep them comeing.SUNCOAST PICKER (LARRY)😎😎😎😎😎
Thanks.
There's something safe that can't be easily opened ?
Thank you.
Every time I see a lock, I google it before I buy it. Every time a LPL video pops up. I haven't bought a lock in over 5 years.
On a motorcycle you park the bike in gear and put this on the left grip, capturing the clutch lever so it can't be pulled and the bike rolled away or shifted into neutral. It's a good idea. I wish LPL would have explained if the lock core can be replaced with a more secure one.
I would have to protest as I've had to ride 30 miles on a broken clutch cable. you can blip the bike out of gear and push it off in neutral. If you can get around the clutch in to start switch. I'm pretty sure that's as easy as cutting the two wires and twisting them together. Your already cutting wires and popping fuses to hot jump it might as well splice the clutch wire together lol.
I rather think someone and a few buddies are going to pick it up and toss it in the pack of a pick up amd deal with all that at home in a closed garage.
Also on all bikes, Simi auto and manual you can rock the bike in and out of neutral with out using the clutch. You can go -1-n-1-n-2-n-1 if you want, if you have the normal 1down and so many up or 1up and so many down or all down like motogp speed shifter or all up like the old school quads. You can rock through all the gears. Lol do you even ride. Notice that wasn't a question.
Even with all that being said I think it would be easier to use it as it was designed. To lock the throttle at 0.00% to stall any engine movement and the front breaks locked completely depressed to lock the front the front end up. This with your front locked like they should be would make the bike very difficult to move. It would be easier to push it over and slide it around on the plastics or frame. If you've ever worked on a bike you would know the ins and outs of moving one without the help of a motor and how the gears work and if you actually rode you wouldn't have made your first statement.
You commented and gave your ignorant opinion and spewed it as fact. All while knowing you didn't know shit. That's what we call a squid. Something else you would know.
Shame on you.
With all the love in the world,
A real rider.
Rock there bike back and forth with pressure one the shifter you can get to neutral
It's not hard to get into neutral without pulling the clutch in.
Great video! At first It looked like a coax wire stripper lol
you know it's 2020 when the host coughes and you check the publishing date of the video to know if you have to be worried about his health.
coughed*
It took me a while to understand the comment, so I scrolled to upload date and then he coughed
@@redakaminekloc5167 thanks for your correction.
What would one do if the lock required a half turn to open? Other than picking it some more, how do you get the tension?
You have mad skills better then Bosnia. Bill I think
Locks keep honest people honest, and now the kid down the street can't roll my bike around... I also see it as a parking brake. A key, why not?! Do I think it is the best security idea? Well, thank you for proving my suspicions =o)
My thought on the parking brake as well, yeah the transmission with hold the bike in gear, but on really steep hills, the thought of locking the brake top is a nice thing in my opinion. I never understood why quads had the ability to lock the brake lever as a parking brake, but motorcycles don’t.
Peterson's tubular picks say they could pick these type of locks with different spring pressure. I've seen them on the site for awhile. Do you think you could do a review so you could let us know if it's true of not?
Lol. No way I would spend that much!
Most brake levers on motorbikes will not fully compress. I think that lock is designed for the clutch lever on the left-hand side of the handlebars (regardless of what the marketing department has seen fit to espouse). I also think that this lock is designed to be used not on its own but in conjunction with another lock, perhaps securing the brake disc or the bike frame to an immovable object. I think this lock has been specifically designed to prevent the bike being started and ridden away. Well, that's what I think. That's my two penneth.
Well one on break one on clutch with 2 alarmed disk locks and additional abus alarmbox in city.... Added 14mm oxford hexagonal chain when in garage...Surely there are easier targets than my bike
Quite often bikes are stolen by 3 or more blokes in a van, they just pick them up and chuck them in the van. No wheeling necessary.
The main idea with a lock like this, is not to be the sole security, because as mentioned, its easily defeated. The idea is to use this in addition to other security measures such as a disk lock or two, an alarm, and whatever else. Its meant to add to the inconvenience and complexity of stealing the bike.
Your comment gave me the idea to use this lock with a disk lock, by running the reminder cable through the handlebar lock. Can't accidentally forget the disk lock is there when it's cable and your brake lever are being held hostage 😂
my dad uses a bar and chain. (basically you can't turn the bike, hell of a lot more secure than this lock you shown in the video)
I've seen a great many improvised solutions over the years, and many of them are quite good. Sounds like your dad had a good system/
you could just set which ever wheel is locked up on to a wheeled moving platform and off you go. you can grab one on amazon for less than $60 or if your handy with tools you could easily build your own for alot less.
but i was told to put this lock on the clutch in 1st gear and not the brake. if the clutch is locked you cant really move the bike by rolling it. im new to this and about to get my first bike. please advise
Did you get your new bike..? If so, what locks do you use to protect it..?
This is just a small deterrent, quick and simple
I have this on my motorbike (on the clutch lever) simply to provide a visual deterrent to the opportunist-type and a simple additional hindrance to the determined-type. I also have a simple brake-disc lock on the front wheel (as a visual deterrent and hinderance) and a 12mm linked chain with sturdy padlock looped through the back wheel and frame (as the main security element). One thing in favour of my bike is that it has a very comprehensive immobiliser and it is keyless so cannot be sold on as a working bike, it would certainly only be suitable for parting out but who parts out a cheap Chinese motorbike?
Is there such a motorcycle disc brake lock that you know of that is very hard to cut or break using a bolt extractor and very hard to pick
Also... How often do you actually pay for stuff from vending machines? :P
Anybody can simply snap the brake lever and ride away anyway
well then they would have to drive with just the back brake
but i guess if someone steals motorcycles their concern for safety is rather low...
Shoutout to anyone watching this in 2021 that checked the upload date when he coughed around 3:42.
What is the best lock for motorcycle security. I have and like motorcycle
All you have to do is cut what is usually a cast aluminum break handle. This is a very temporary security.
What do you call that tools
Is the hinge on this lock a vulnerability?
Not without some drilling. there is a tempered steel roll pin keeping the hinge together.
Nice picking, but you would never see that lock on my Harley. thefts are smart, they just take two long steal bars and one goes through the front of the frame, the other in the rear, four guys just lift it right into a pickup, or trailer. But where here for learning the art of picking. Well i hope so. 🔫
Hmm. That seems effective.
Ha nice pun,"steal" bars.
The only thing any lock does, yes even the best out there, is keep an honest man honest. If someone wants to steal something they generally find a way.
is any lock you cant pick???
I'd like to see him have a go at the Ruko Garant+
www.ruko.dk/Other/Ruko_dk/Downloads/Illustrationer/Produkter/Gennemsk%c3%a5ret_cylinder_Garantplus.jpg
That one has counter milled key pin chambers, balanced pin stacks, ASSA barrel spools up top, and 10 side bar pins to keep him busy for a couple of hours.
Maybe an Abloy tubular lock?
Many, many locks that I can't pick. Too many to even begin listing.
You always say that edge tensioned tubular locks are the norm, but I’ve only ever seen ones like it
Isn't there a reason car companies don't tap into the hydraulic brakes for the parking brake.
popcatzoo It's easier and cheaper doing it using a mechanical mechanism
Its cause you could lock up your tires. It needs to have ABSOLUTELY MINIMAL gripping force, only enough to hold the car still on a hill, otherwise some dumbass would try to stop with it and drift.
parking brake also works as an emergency brake if for some reason you lose both your brake circuits, and in EU the parking brake has to hold the car still in a 20% gradient hill
In USA the parking brake must not rely on hydraulic pressure which can develop leak and allow vehicle to roll. It must instead rely on mechanical force. This is almost verbatim from the DOT handbook.
Pretty much all bikes come with an adjustment which allows you to change the brake controls with your hands, gloved even, an whilst you're at a stop light. It makes it easy to change your clutch biting point or your brakes, but it also renders that device irrelevant. I have never owned a bike which hasn't had that mechanism, from my first learning bike older than myself to my modern high end bike they have all universally had that adjustment.
i think this kind of lock is just a piece of mind type for running into a few shops.
When I see the simple keys, which create to lock a PC, I know the guy open it in seconds 👍
Looks pretty cool tho.
Literally any lock's pacage:
PICK PROOF LOCK. VIRTUALLY IMPOSIBLE TO PICK.
LPL:*Picks it blindfolded with his left hand in 3 seconds.*
Smooth as usual. nice pick, not so smart lock.
Thanks.
and he says " please subscribe, and have a nice robery"
"Being pick proof is like being a lady. If you have to tell people you are, you aren't" - LockPickingThatcher
I live in a very calm and safe town, the only reason I use one of those, is to lock my helmet, with the steel wire provided with it.
So I can go for a walk in the beach, without having to carry my helmet.
Making the lock with springs of different tension would cost more, so they don't do it. Not a cost that anyone would notice when they pass it onto the consumer, but the typical corporate mindset is "why not charge the price for the more expensive version while making it with the cheaper stuff?"
As you pointed out, they are useless. Too easy to bleed the brake fluid. All you need is one small allen key and half a turn to bleem them damage free.
you would still have rear brakes . this would only would on front brake too
Yup.
what bike lock would you recommend?
I came after seeing an ad for it 😂
i want to buy this. is this fittable in royal enfield classic 350?
no you dont. get a disc lock
So.. we got a useless mechanism combined with a useless lock? D: But the real question is: ARE YOU A REAL LAWYER? Been asking me this for quite some time. xD
Oh, and what kind of camera do you use? The zooming action would indicate some DSLR with a zoom lens - is that correct? ^^ I am looking for a new setup for my channel as recording with my mobile phone really drives me nuts with all kind of issues.
Yes, a real lawyer... and the videos are shot on my iphone. Disappointing, right?
LockPickingLawyer The lock is disappointing, your answers are not. :D
@iPhone: Just shows me that my phone camera really sucks.
One more question: Do you know of any those tubular locks featuring real security pins like serrateds, spools, etc?
no-trick-pony_lockpicking the only radial pin lock that I've seen with security pins (not counting tapered) is the van lock... with serrated pins.
Thank you very much.
Are you sure putting different springs REALLY mitigates the problem? The requirement for the tool is that binding pins should be able to push the rods up but the spring tension shouldn't. If you add a strong spring perhaps you need to add more rubber rings but there is probably an order of magnitude difference in force from binding pins and the spring force. So I can't see why this design couldn't work always regardless of springs and security pins, as long as you can adjust the force required for the pins to slip. Different springs may make the attack slower, but I doubt it couldn't work. The big flaw is that the pins are exposed. You could do this attack against any pin tumbler or dimple lock too, except the design of the required tool would be more intricate (but hardly impossible -- I'm sure you are very aware of the Chinese aluminum foil kits) . Please educate me if I'm missing something here... :-) TLDR: I think this attack always works in principle and the design of the tubular lock is inherently flawed due to the pins being so exposed.
the lock is a weak spot, here. obviously easily picked for someone with a bit of skill or the proper tool. however many opportunistic thieves have not the skill or tools. i like it for its high visibility in bright orange and "wtf is that" factor. and as another poster mentioned i do not use it on the brake side....but the clutch side. so even if you get the bike started somehow how you gonna engage the clutch to get it going? i use disc locks front and rear for the "push steal" deterrent, and a padlock and chain when practical. its all i can do, really. but using this on the clutch side and the disc locks alone at least take care of a couple of hurdles a potential thief may have to jump whether they get your bike started or not
i got no sound why
Would be so much better if we put in on the clutch instead
GONE IN 60 SECONDS 😂
A thief will also be able to cut the break lever too.
The brake lever is also relatively easy to saw through with even the worst hacksaw. One could even use 12 inch bolt cutters to clip them.
While I like the Idea of the lock, there are simply too many ways to defeat it and this should've never been put on the market in my opinion.
I feel sorry for those who purchased this and had their Bikes stolen in spite of it. It just goes to show that there are No Morality involved in some of these business practices.
Won’t stop a pro, but most thief’s aren’t smart enough to get past it.
I would to see what he would recommend instead.
It would kill the hoses
You could just lift up the front of the bike and wheel it on the back wheel. Easy enough with two people I should imagine.