Olympus or Godox Flash for Macro Photography? (Olympus FL-700WR vs Godox v350 vs Godox TT685)
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- Опубліковано 4 чер 2024
- In this video I compare Olympus FL-700WR with Godox v350 and Godox TT685 for focus stacking in macro photography
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I made two guesses in this video, and both were wrong 😳Corrections:
1) WR does not stand for Weather Resistant, it stands for Wireless Radiowave (but the flash is weather sealed!)
2) OM does not pay their ambassadors just for being ambassadors, but they do get discounted equipment. The ambassadors are however paid when they do gigs for OM, like holding a lecture.
Since you made some corrections I would also like you to explain the claim that the Godox TT685 is one forth the price of Olympus FL-700WR. The Swedish prices I found was SEK 3990 for the Olympus and SEK 1679 for TT685II. Where can I find a Godox TT685 for just SEK 1000 (1/4 of 3990)?
I have a Godox V350, following your reviews. No regets 😀
Me to
This was courageous. I hope OM and all other brands recognize the need to reward honesty when an excellent presenter like you tells the truth. You gave OM a goal for making a better unit.
Hi Michael,
this was exactly one of the reasons I bought the Godox V860III.
1. was that you use Godox 😉.
2nd price compared to the lower Olympus model.
3. I found it strange that practically all OM-system ambassadors use Godox, and even Petr Bambousek from the Czech Republic advised me to use Godox - he also uses the V350
And I'm glad you just confirmed my choice. Although I chose the V860 for better availability in the Czech Republic and the price difference was minimal if Godox ordered it for me with the V350 model.
Thank you very much for your amazing job!
Just last week, I learned that Godox flashes will cycle fast enough to handle in-camera bursts on my Canon R7. So, I ordered an 860ii. I couldn't tell from the badly translated sales literature if version iii still had that capability, so I went ahead and ordered the version I knew would work.
The in-camera stacking only works with the electronic shutter on the Canon - which is incompatible with flash, but I can turn on the mechanical shutter, turn up the frame rate, move the camera physically as it is taking the set and stack in the computer. I do that fairly often anyway, as I regularly use a vintage macro lens that doesn't autofocus. It'll have to do.
I took delivery of the flash yesterday, and it'll do 15 fps (which is the fastest mechanical shutter on the camera) at 1/32 power for 50 frames or more. I even got it to work using a remote Godox radio trigger - I side-lit a macro and took the set moving the camera by hand. I did see some uneven flash brightness doing that, but that test stack came out just fine. I need a lot more experience with this setup, but in general, it looks like it will work as well as anything non-Olympus is going to!
Hi Micael, I believe Chris McGinnis over at OM uses the FL-700 WR. I use the Godox TT350 but I rarely stack. It does a pretty good job with keeping up until 1/8 +0.7. I also use the regular Panasonic Enelope rechargeables.
Thank you for doing this very informative video.
I have a Fujifilm X-S20 and am getting into macrophotography after leaving it for about 40 years. The macro lens that I have selected is the Laowa 64mm and need to select a flash. After doing quite a bit of investigation I have narrowed it down to the Godox V350 with a spare battery and the Godox V1. The V1 is a better flash but I am put off from getting it by its size and weight. There is also the potential problem of getting a good diffuser for that setup because the V1 is big and the head would extend almost as far as the lens.
What you you recommend?
I have used my flashes with my OM-1 yet. One of these days, I will need to try my old V1 flashes with the newer Pro controller. Thank you for reviewing the OM flash. I have been wondering if I needed one but guess not.
I shoot Nikon and have been using second hand SB 800's and SB910's with my homemade diffusers. They seem to keep up quite well with stacking as long as they are in manual, set to a wide angle, which is exactly as I shoot macro. If I use TTL modes and the like they don't keep up so well, but using the Godox transmitter, the same as yours, and Nikon/Godox receivers, they also keep up well off camera, and the strength is easily controlled per channel from the transmitter.
The Godox V350(o) is my favorite. The MFT/Olympus version got pretty rare though and on my GH6 it has a bug where you have to disconnect the two last pins (not put it in fully) so it works with burst mode.
I swapped to a G9II now tho, there it doesn't has that small issue. Easily keeps up at 1/16 with the high burst mode on the GH6/G9II.
To some degree on the 1/8 power as well, might miss one or two tho there occasionally.
Hej Michael, thanks for the comparison.
I'm using the TT685o which is pretty huge for mft system. Seems the battery is the deciding factor, with the white eneloop it stops after a few releases.
I've started with a tiny Nissin i40 which doesn't flash with equal brightness while bracketing.
Instead of searching for the V350o I will get new batteries first.
Have both these Godox models for my macro photography Micael, can't fault them especially with there very competitive price range. 👍
flash wise I have been running the Godox MF12 units for my macro stuff, they keep up rather well, I do not own any full sized speedlights sadly
I’ve been doing “macro photography” on my iPhone for a few years 😅 finally moving to a real camera with an actual macro lens. Been watching a few of these videos and I’m excited to make my paper diffuser today LOL
Hi Micael, What flash do you suggest for Sony A7C Mark II camera for macro photography (using Laowa lens)? Thank you!
Godox v350
The hahnel modus 360rt is another great flash for macro.i think its a v350 clone , plus it has a video light which is great for a focusing light .
Hey Micael, have you tried focus stacking with remote trigger and 2 flashes? Just looking for other experiences because I noted a massive speed drop down even with the v860iii, mf12 and v350o
Never tried focus stacking with dual flashes so I cannot comment on that
Yes, still very happy with the Godox V355o. Performs like it should and very compact in weight and size. Nice review.
Was after seeing you using it that I went for this flash, so thank you.
Sometimes thinking going for stronger flash for subjects further away (300mm)...the V860III, V850III or V1.
But not clear what's the difference between these 3 flashes.
The bigger ones likely have more stamina and power, in case you need that for very big stacks or longer shooting distance.
Nice sir ❤
Hej Micael! Vilka intressanta videos du spelar in.. Väldigt trevligt. Jag använder själv en OLYMPUS OM1 och är väldigt nöjd. Har dock inte testat macro ännu. Men sommaren har ju just börjat (och kanske slutat också med tanke på regnet och temperaturen).. Jag använder GODOX V1 när jag tar blixtbilder, även på porträtt i studio ibland. Har du testat den blixten när du fotar macro?
Har inte testat den
I have an OM1 - I notice you have used a couple of different diffusers for macro photography. Which one do you actually prefer? Pope Shield or the one you used on this video?
I prefer AK diffuser these days, although the Cygnustech is just as good. I would urge everybody to never order a Pope Shield because the company is extremely unreliable and many people did not get their order.
Great video Micael. I have the FL-700WR, which I bought because the V350o was out of stock in the UK earlier this year. I absolutely agree about the stuttering of the Oly flash. I just repeated your test with 40 frames at 1/32 power and fully charged batteries. Immediately after being switched on, it fires fairly well with a few stutters. The more you run it, the more frequently it pauses. After 3 or four firings it is really slow. It also always stutters at 1/8 power. I had assumed the Godox was the same. I am going to buy the Godox now it is back in stock and sell the 700WR. I really appreciate your videos by the way, and have got into macro on the OM1 because of them. I am enjoying it immensely, but I am finding it difficult to find insects outside to photograph. Any chance of a video on how to find subjects to shoot outdoors, and also focussing and handling techniques to get the little b*ggers in focus?
Great to get my experience with this flash confirmed. As for finding insects, you just have to be patient. Try to go where there are a lot of flowers, like a botanical garden. Also try places near water, and in the intersection between a forest and an open grassy field.
What are your settings with godox? If I set it to manual I can focus stack no problem. But if I use TTL then it uses full power in all shots except the first one
I always use M mode on my flashes, usually a strength between 1/16 and 1/32
Hi Micael, have you (or anyone in the comments reading this) compared the Godox v350 with the v860III? I can't seem to find a good comparison anywhere, especially related to macro focus stacks. I'd be really interested to see what your thoughts are on this! The specs look pretty similar to me on paper but the v860III is a lot heavier and more expensive, just wondering if those things translate into much better performance or not.
Also, thanks for making such great content for the macro community!
I think the reason some people use the v860III is simply that it is even more reliable, fast and powerful than the v350. It has to be, as it uses a larger battery and has a larger flash head. So for example if you often do 100 photo stacks, and want absolutely flawless performance with minimal breaks, the v860 is probably the best choice. The price you pay though is of course that you have to handle a larger and heavier flash.
Just curious, have you tried Godox v860IIIo? IMHO, it is powerful and great for quick burst. I like it better than the v350o. Also, the built-in focus light on the v860III is great in dark environment. Thanks for all the great videos ;-)
Second that!, that flash is wild!!, a great upgrade after v350o
I use a Sony HVL-F60RM2 and it can last around 75 photos on high speed at most strengths (even 1/16). Can any of the flashes you mentioned (ie: Godox) in the video compare? I am looking to downgrade my flash in weight, but need it to be able to take over 40+ pics without recharge
If you want the most speed and power possible at a good price, I would look into the bigger Godox flashes with model numbers starting with "V".
Hej, Mikke! Topic of great interest to me. The V350, at 1/16th, how many consecutive firings are you able to get in burst/auto stack? Currently using an old Nissin i40 with GP Recyco Pros (not photoflash), getting 9-12 at 1/16th. Considering the V350 for hopefully (quite) a few more.
Hey man, i have the v350. I'm also quite dissapointed by the performance at 1/16, i get around 10 shots at 1/16 wit the sony a7iii high burst mode.
@@smellynecklace I since posting this got a V350. I shoot Fuji and it works fine, however burst rate is limited, to what I think is 4-5ish FPS, regardless of what set on the camera. Syncs perfectly tho. At 1/16 I can mostly just keep going untill the buffer fills which is around 40 shots with my memory card. Auto focus bracketing works fine too. I will get an occasional black frame sometimes, but frequencey is very low. However, some days, even if the unit is "cold" and battery charged, it seems more temperemental. Don't know why. Running at 1/8 it will only do a few frames before the blacks come. Rather like this speedlight, especially the battery capacity. But, it's not perfect.
@@stumblingfalk That does sound quite good, my camera goes to 10 fps but no auto focus bracketing. at 1/32 i can do like 40 shots but 1/16 still cycles at like 10 shots. I'm not even going to bother with 1/8 for burst mode. I was considering the v860 but it won't fit on my custom made diffuser. I'm just going to make do with what i got, it's not that bad.
During the 'breaks' does the camera continue firing without flash or does it wait for the flash to come back up to power before continuing the sequence?
I'm using a Godox TT350 flash with a Nikon Z50 and it does the former. On even a short run, I end up with quite a number of shots that are taken with either reduced power or no flash at all and which are consequently underexposed. I'm trying to figure out whether this is a limitation of the camera specification or a shortfall in the compatibility.
As mentioned in my earlier comment, I've just invested in a V350 which I'm hoping will maintain power and provide consistent exposures over longer sequences. However, it would also be helpful if the shutter only fired when the flash had enough charge. I'd rather have breaks than sequences with underexposed frames.
On Olympus cameras, it communicates well with the flash and does not take any photos during the breaks.
@@MicaelWidell Thanks Micael. Sounds like either the Z50 doesn't have that capability or there's a compatibility issue between my Godox flash unit and Nikon.
Edit - just tested with my Nikon SB-700 flash and with that combination the camera shutter doesn't fire when the flash isn't ready. Also the exposures are far more consistent. So it looks like there is indeed an compatibility issue.
I just bought the expensive SB-5000 for Nikon. It is said to be able to take 100 flash shots in a row at full power. Also, it supports TTL mode when shooting indoors or at events that my Godox flashes won't work with on my Z9 and Z8 cameras. Yes, there are certainly much cheaper alternatives, but I can't bear to look or be worried that it won't work as intended. I do own a pair of TT685 (N) for Nikon and they dont always flash.
I have found the TT685 to be extremely reliable, but you need to make sure to have good batteries
@@MicaelWidell Parhaps there are different good or bad quality on the build of godox or any flash. Or that it works better on fuji and Sony or what ever camera. There are firmware updates for godox but I have not found the old cable that is needed. I have cables that fit but does nothing when connected to the computer.
I have the TT685 on my OM-1 and it too takes a break after 3-4 shots in a burst. I'm fine with it as I don't use focusstacking (I use the OM-1 mainly because it has a massive bigger depth of field than e.g. a full frame camera). I do use it in TTL mode, which I think is a mistake with a burst? (as in: should I put in manual 1/32 mode?)
(edit) tried the MULTI m mode on the TT685 at 1/32 and it indeed gave the desired result of no breaks in the burst! :) Glad that focusstacking is possible with this flash :)
I prefer to always shoot in manual mode, if nothing else to get consistent lighting
@@MicaelWidell Interesting, I've always used TTL to let the camera do the metering, but will try manual more often, to see if that gives better lighting in various conditions (e.g. sunlight/shade etc.)... the TTL metering is pretty ok in the om-1, haven't had many over exposed shots
You should try the STF-8, though not as easy to diffuse.
I don't like the look you get with front mounted flashes
I've just bought my very first flash Godox v350 and I'll be using it on a Canon R10. Only problem is the flash isn't recognised by the camera in the menu but appears to be working. Not sure if this is an issue?
If it works it works :) Perhaps Canon only recognizes Canon-branded flashes?
The problem with canon , and all other brands (not Olympus) is that they can´t do focus-stack or focus bracketting at high speed (handheld) with a flash.
What's the maximum power setting on the Godox v350 can you use to get 30 flashes in a row without slowing down? Thanks in advance.
Whatever the maximum power, I'm hoping it's better than the TT350. I've just ordered a V350 because my TT350 can't keep up on any power setting. The flash tails off after only three or four frames even with 1/16 power set.
There is a big difference between the TT350 and V350. See this comparison I made: ua-cam.com/video/s15aNl9qZVQ/v-deo.html
@@MicaelWidell Thanks Micael - I think it may have been your comparison that originally made me decide to try the upgrade.
Hi, i have a question, i bought the Meike MK320, but when i use burst mode each next photo is getting darker, is it the problem with batteries, or is there an option to fix it in the flash itself?
I did a test with this flash and concluded that the problem is probably the flash itself. See this video: ua-cam.com/video/s15aNl9qZVQ/v-deo.html
@@MicaelWidell :(
Tack för infon. Jag köpte FL-700wr till min OM-1 med Cygnustech diffuser. Skulle min Cygnustech diffuser passa om jag köper en Godox v350o?
Tycker också jag upplevt pauser med min FL-700wr.
Blixtarna är ganska lika i storlek så diffusern bör passa okej om än inte helt perfekt.
@@MicaelWidell Stort tack för snabbt svar. Testar nog den då istället. Har jag tur kanske den finns inne på Rajala eller Scandinavian så kan jag glida in och testa passformen. Ha det fint!
I photograph with a Canon EOS 6D Mark II and a lens of Laowa 100mm with a flash from Godox TT865 in combination with a battery pack of Godox PB 960. With this I can continue to flash without a fault of the flash.
Great video, very interesting.
When I look into Olympus oficial page, only FL-900R is advertised as 10 fps and compatible with focus stacking, focus bracketing and MultiMode.
For FL-700WR they did not mentioned anything about secvential shooting. So Olympus knows that it will not work for focus stacking or other secvential mode. Perhaps the WR makes it so expensive, because there is another flash (FL-600R) which has similar power and it costs only 100$.
Finnally the conclusion is: FL-900R is the right flash for focus stacking. And of course a Godox option looks better because it is cheaper.
I also had the realization about the 900R after recording this video. Asked OM to send me one and I will test it.
The Godox v350o is great. Not only for stacking on my OM-1, but also when attached to my Nikon D500. It knocks my Nikon Speedlite 800 into a cocked hat. Flashes every time in burst mode (the Speedlite leaves me with a hotch-potch of flash and no-flash shots) - and it's lighter and much cheaper. Also only needs a single battery and spare batteries cost a few bucks on eBay. Haven't tried stacks with the D500 + Godox yet (moving the camera in increments) - that's another thing the Godox will be better for, I'm sure. Oh, and the AK diffuser - though customized for the M Zuiko 60mm - also fits very snugly when I use it with the Godox, D500 and Nikon 105mm macro lens. The Speedlite is too big.
For Zuiko 90mm is v860iii better than v350?
The bigger one is more powerful but heavier. Both are excellent options.
@@MicaelWidellthank you
I got godox v350. Out of 10 shots, I'm getting 4 misfires on sony a6700. Have it replaced and the number of misfires reduce but I'm still getting 1 out of 15 :(
That's too bad. What power do you have it set to? Seems like most people who have issues with this flash are Sony shooters. I wonder if there is a compatibility issue?
@@MicaelWidell I set it to 1/8 or 1/16 manual mode. Shutter speed is at 1/160. I've no idea if there are still settings in camera or flash that I should disable/enable.
I bought a used Olympus FL600 flash for $70. It has a plastic shoe. Not sure how good it is for focus stacking The Olympus FL700 is a step up in quality.
A differensen between an Olympus flash and Godox is that the Olympus flash tells the camera when it is ready to take the next shot. With the Godox flash the camera will keep shooting regardless of if the flash is ready or not. Hence, you should not have any breaks in the camera trying to trigger the flash. However some of the images will be black since the camera will do the shooting even if the flash is not ready to trigger. Look att the sequence shot with the Godox flash and look for black frames. You will not find any black frames using the Olympus flash since it will not shoot unless the flash has enough power.
What you are writing is not true. The camera waits for the flash to signal that it is ready for the next shot, regardless if it is Godox or Olympus. Please don't write stuff when you have no idea what you are talking about.
@@MicaelWidell This is not the case with the versions of Godax flashes I own. I know, they are not the latest version but my Olympus cameras doesn't wait for the Godax flashes to be charged. They just keep on shooting regardless of the flash status. That is why there is a setting for charge time in the focus stacking menu. It is there to allow non Olympus flashes to recharge between shots. Perhaps you should ask me why my flashes behave like this instead of accusing me to lie about it.
You wrote something inaccurate and misleading, and I pointed it out. Your initial comment did not mention your own, ancient (probably incompatible?) flashes.
Is 860iii also good for macro?
Yes it is probably great, if you can stand having a rather large and heavy flash
Tack kompis 👊🏼
En sak till wr står inte för väderbeständig även om det var en bra gissning, det har med radiokomunikationen mellan blixtar att göra på något sätt. Kommer inte ihåg exakt vad det står för.
Yes, jag lade till en rättning i översta pinnade kommentaren kort efter att jag lade upp videon
To be totally fair, perhaps the test should be repeated with a different FL700 unit since your first V350 was also a disappointment.
I read some other comments on this video from people who had the same experience with the FL700. So I think we can be pretty certain that it spans across most units.