Matt, I drove industrial scrubbers 12 hour shifts for years. THE single most important thing about scrubbers and how clean they get the floor is A) use enough fluid And B) make sure your squeegie arm has a good sharp edge on the rubber. If it's not flat like a scissor blade with a good edge, it WILL NOT WORK PROPERLY and snail trail your floor.
This hits home, I have around 1500hrs on a Karcher drum scrubber like this, for a period of 2 years in a house factory. I was a do-it-all guy over there, but most of my time was spent simply as a janitor cleaning the whole complex to fight the dust and keep humidity at an appropriate level. They had to replace the squeegie many times before I started there, and it was already pretty worn with missing chunks when I started, so for me it was a question of professional pride. I made a point out of picking up bolts/nuts/nails etc before I scrubbed anything. I also figured out how to adjust the squeegie tension so even though it had some serious wear, I never had a snail left over after a pass. During my tenure never had to replace the squeegie, and weeks after I left someone else destroyed it 🤣 So from experience: Run it like a lawnmower or plow, do overlaps for better results, always start from the outside and work your way in. One way to get the floor super clean is use the scrubbing program on about 2/10 to 4/10's water, and let it soak as you go back for another run and just run it on a 50/50 scrub/squeegie program. If that thing has a soap dispenser and a soap scrubbing program, I recommend using that a couple times a year so you can get all the oil and grease out of the floor as well, concrete doesn't like being contaminated, especially in shifting temperatures. Also make sure to check the hose between the squeegie and pickup tank, if crud accumulates there you'll be leaving 10-20 gallons of water on the floor, you never know what can get into that hose. Also clean the squeegie as often as you can, as well as check the drum for debris, the cleaner you can keep the whole rig, the longer it's gonna last! Don't drive too fast or you're leaving more water and crud than you're picking up, try to angle the squeegie blade like you would with Christine so any excess water goes to the inside instead of into the wall. Keep adjusting the water program so you never expel more water than you can scrape up, always start on the outside and work your way in. ALWAYS pick up plastic, and I recommend try to pick up nuts/bolts/nails/screws (which will damage the squeegie). ALWAYS clean it to the best of your abilities after use, or you'll get muck and crud almost welding itself to the plastic over time, I also recommend taking the squeegie apart (should be just a couple of wing-nuts holding it onto the arm) so you can clean the collector. It's a good opportunity to scrape the squeegie clean as well. I can't stress enough that the cleaner you keep it the better results you get, the guys that abused the Karcher before I ran it just didn't care and it showed, I spent hours knocking cakes of crud off it, straightening out dents on the collector, and over-all repairing it, from prior abuse 😁
@@airplanemaniacgaming7877 Yeah getting a job there depended on me doing good on the trial. Gave them 2 good years, and for how much other stuff they relied on me to do (welding/fabricating/changing wheels and even got to do a fair bit of construction work) I went above and beyond with the old Karcher😆 Janitor stuff is pretty boring, but was a good atmosphere for the most part, learned a lot. And it's always nice involving yourself, applying yourself and focusing on work when you have it 🙂 These days I'm on disability (lots of accumulated physical & mental injuries) and have my own shop consisting of almost entirely second hand tools (most of which I also have to fix), fixing my old cars, but I go at it with the same spirit, only at a reduced pace.
Never solder before you crimp. The pressure from the crimp will make the solder creep on you, and lead to a bad connection over time. If you absolutely want to combine crimping and soldering, crimp first and sneak some solder in there after.
I've worked with floor scrubbers alot. Pull the squeegee frame off and make sure it's clean. With all the stuff in the hose it could be stopped up and not allowing the vacuum to pick up water. Also check the squeegee edge and make sure it's not wore out. If so you can usually flip them and be good to go unless someone has already used both sides. Next check in the vacuum pump house to make sure it's not clogged up with debris
The jump at 16:16 is one of the most relatable "OH THAT ACTUALLY WORKED" moments I've seen yet. The laughter afterwards was contagious as all could be. Happy for you Matt, hope the fun times in the shop continue into the future.
Matt: Quick electrical tech tip... it's not advisable to crimp pre-soldered multi-stranded wires. The lead / tin of the solder crystallises under compression (over time). When it eventually crystallises, the joints loosens in the crimp and can then cause issues with corrosion or high resistance etc. Better to just solder those lugs if they are not tight after crimping. Then you, or the next owner will have less potential issues down the road :)
Agree 100%. High current installations call "solderless connectors" since as you pointed out, they tend to loosen up and cause arcing and eventual failure. Also even with solderless connectors the heat and cool cycles eventually cause loose connections.
@@noelguerrero2770 Soldered connections are not that bad if done properly. Either just solder the connector on, or first crimp the connector onto clean copper wires and then use solder to fill the crimp in to hermetically seal it and give it more strength. Never crimp onto already soldered or tinned wires, as pointed out, the solder will ALWAYS flow away from the joint and cause a loose connection and heat and could start a fire.
@@brainndamage Agree. I do just that with automotive wiring. Crimp and then solder. But our plant installation of three phase 440 volts at 800 amps calls for "solderless". The electrical code mandates it.
Matt, former electric golf cart mechanic here, the jerky acceleration could be due to the batteries being low on voltage. A healthy charged 6 volt deep cell should be at 6.3-6.4 volts, so total pack voltage should be around 25.2 volts. Keep them charged with an actual deep cycle charger, it means everything for the life of your expensive batteries 👍🏻
Matt, There are epoxy floor coatings to use which will seal the floor. You might want to consider using one to thoroughly seal the floor before dripping oil and other contaminants on to it. It should also make cleaning the floor much easier; much easier than cleaning the raw concrete. Keep the aspidistra flying! God bless.
I’ve had bad times with wax only, sealing concrete is an art itself but a penetrating products is a good start, epoxy can lift after a while depending on moisture levels in the concrete but will provide a much better surface that repels water and oil which could be a real issue in a shop. Concrete is like a sponge and gets ugly quickly without proper sealing.
@@JeffreyJobson Indeed, at my work we provide something called Superfloor (Husqvarna) where you polish the concrete to extreme layers then put on a super durable finish. Like all floors it wont last forever, but it will last for a long long long time.
You can get thousands of gallons of water, all you will ever need, off of that huge roof. We watered a community garden all season with the rain water from a barn roof. Much cheaper than drilling a well. Love your videos. Great work! Keep it up...
Carol is right. I have water tanks for 50,000 litres on my house in suburban Melbourne, Australia and my roof area would be way less than yours and our rainfall would also be way less than yours. I would have no hesitation drinking the water but it is not hooked up for drinking water but water is sparkling clean and has been used for more than 10 years for all our hot water and toilets (among other things) without any problems at all. Set the system up with 2 interconnected tanks. Water goes in one tank and is drawn from the other. Any fine sediment collects in the first tank and second remains clean. Have filters but have never needed to clean them when I have checked them. I presume the only thing different there is the colder winters and the freezing temperatures may complicate using tank water.
@@dougwait5311 I too don't understand why they're scared of drinking rain water in the USA. Million year old bad bore water vs beautiful rain water.. our artesian bore in western queensland makes my grass sick
@@93jummy they have listened to, too many uninformed/paranoid web sites. If you let the water settle, filter, take from the top and if concerned about bacteria, boil it. We have an old septic tank that was steamed clean after connected to city sewage system. Have used the rain water for years for irrigating the garden and flowers.
I used to sell these scrubbers and they are good units but as others have said replace the squeegee and brushes for better performance and use a low-foam cleaning solution in the water to keep the vac from sucking foam. Otherwise, they are dynamite units and you got a great deal on that one.
@@harpo6203 It helps to have the "chunks" out of the way. There are sweeper/scrubber combinations. I had customers who would dry sweep with the scrubber before using water. If the floor is really dirty, yes, sweep it first.
This is Matt here folks. Use a good shot of wd 40 in recovery tank to kill the foam, Sweep the floor first, this is basically a power mop, not a broom. Vac motors will fail, brushes wear out.
@@harpo6203 No, that's the whole purpose of the cylindrical decks. They have a hopper for collecting the debris. The hopper is the long part Matt pulls out just before showing the status of the brush.
I used to run a larger unit many moons ago as a teenager, and one thing I remembered about these machines. It was, they had to be run very slow for water pick up. And adjusting the water flow rate was also important. Add to your flow rate until you see a consistent wet brush mark, but no more. Think of it like a wet rag. Wiping off a table without ringing out the excess water. It puddles and leaves too much water. Ring out the rag and very little water residue is left.(Hopefully this makes sense) They also work better with more frequent runs. Our floors were cleaned WEEKLY. You do not want really dirty floors because it turns into a slurry (thick muddy mess) If you stay on top of things this machine will work out great for you. Nice find
I worked at San Diego International Airport and we had some large Industrial buildings as well . We had the exact same machine you have. For best results do NOT run it too fast !! The squeegee blade needs to be in good condition to be able to pick up the water on the floor. It is reversible, meaning when an edge is worn you can turn it over and use the other side. Very important that you empty out the waste (dirty water) tank after EVERY cleaning. Use proper chemicals or you will damage some of the tanks and/or hoses. Other than that, you have picked up one heck of a deal, Matt !! Good for you, my friend. You're technically minded and it didn't take you long to figure out why you had an error code and how to fix the other parts that weren't working properly !! Best wishes for a CLEAN floor in your new Dream Shop, Matt !!
Our floors get caked in vitamin powder and thst turns into a slurry when wet and dries like concrete if not scrubbed we use a chlorinated caustic detergent that cuts through protein residue and grease
I had to rebuild one of these scrubbers at a previous job. The most important thing about it is the scrubber deck pressure against the floor. It is adjusted with the 2 piece rod attached to the actuator. Next make sure your vaccum system pressure is correct. When the pick up pressure is right you should not be able to lift the lid on the dirty water collection tank. Then make sure your scrubber deck is level from side to side. The squeegee and brush should just slightly flex against the floor. The water pattern yours is leaving says there is a slight vaccum pressure leak, and you said it is leaving water when you turn. So clean the water pickup at the squeegee and make sure your dirty water tank seals are all good and not rotted. When you start looking for parts, pricewise, anything that you can get and avoid the manufacturer is better. They are astronomical on their prices. Not bad, you were correct on the code 04 is the deck height pressure sensor. I enjoy the videos. Thanks. Congrats on the shop. It looks awesome. I look forward to more.
Only on Diesel Creek will you find a high speed montage of a floor scrubber in operation underscored by the Semi Supervillains. That and the laughter of pure joy when it first started moving are why i watch this channel
Matt, your channel is literally my favorite channel on UA-cam. I get so excited when you drop a new video, no matter what it is. I learn so much from watching you learn, and also from watching you work on the things you already know a lot about. Thanks for being you!
From working the last 24years in the electronic industry i have seen my fair bit of crimped solder joints that have failed, due to the fact that the solder will cold flow over time, instead of soldering the cables, use the same strands from another piece of wire and fill up the reaming space in the pin with copper wires of the same dimension, this is how it's done and allowed to be done in the industry, otherwise love your channel.
Im a industrial repairman, these scubbers do good as job as any but all scrubbers need constant maintenance, adjustment, repair because everyone uses them as if they are unbreakable. They wont empty, rinse them with every use. When you hit things too hard, the bolt together frame gets knocked out of alignment. If you use them reasonably careful and maintain the basics they could last forever.
I went to the custodial program at Michigan Career and Technical Institute for 20 weeks of janitorial training From Feb 21, to July 6 of 2006. I have had to clean and repair several scrubbers ever since I started work here in Ohio in August of 2006. The previous job I had used Karcher cleaning equipment, and I have experienced quite a few reliability issues with their products to the point I can't recommend Karcher to anyone. The current job I work at uses a Minuteman E 20 walk behind scrubber, and the batteries already need to be replaced because nobody bothered to check and fill the water level in the batteries. Once the church I am employed at replaces the batteries, I will keep up on the battery maintenance. Be sure to drain both the solution and recovery tanks, rotate the brushes to keep wear on bristles even, clean the scrub deck and squeegee, and leave both tanks open to let them air out so odor-causing bacteria doesn't grow. Use a defoamer in the recovery tank to help prevent foam build up, which could damage the vac motor, and run the vac motor for a minute or two after cleaning the tank to help remove any moisture from the vac motor, so it doesn't rust up. I have had good luck with Tennant and RPS corp (Factory Cat and Tomcat floor scrubbers). Karcher and Windsor equipment made after 2003 are junk. If the floor is really dirty, you might need to "double scrub" which you have the brushes and water going, but the vac motor is not on. This allows the water and cleaning solution to tackle heavier soils. Then go back over it again with the brushes, water and vac motor running.
Nice addition to the shop. A previous supervisor used to insist our work areas were pristine at the start and end of each day, I never got out of that habit. It's certainly safer and definitely easier to find things if you drop them, but it just 'feels' so much nicer to work in a clean space.
What was really nice to see is you working inside, while it was raining that we could barely hear, and your out of the wind and not getting wet. Congratulations on your new shop. Can’t wait to watch you get things set up.
I really don't know why I would find it interesting watching somebody work on a floor scrubber but I enjoyed every minute of it I think it's because of how you troubleshoot the problem to get to the ultimate solution. Great job. Also the merch is top-notch. The t-shirts are nice and heavy and the graphics on them just pop. Don't forget stickers for your tool boxes.
Sir, I am an custodial maintenance scrubber operator. I currently run a similar machine daily. The comments about replacing the scrubbers squeegee rubber and rubber side blades are spot on. The manufacturer will probably still offer the right blades for sale fairly cheap. And if that doesn't give you the exact scrub you need, there should be a leveling bolt on the rear assembly to let you dial in an eve scrub.
Small tip, run a pattern like you were plowing a field. When ya get to the end of the bay, only come across halfway then run back longways. Each lap is the same size circle, your just moving it over. You can easily double pass the center if it needs it too (often the dirtiest part). The squeegee will track the puddle a little better too. The squeegee is gonna miss a narrow spot on the turns because of geometry or science or somthing. If it’s really dirty/greasy, like an oil spill stain, we sometimes wet scrub without the vac/squeegee and let the soap sit a few minutes then go over it again. The best degreaser we’ve found for this is the aviation type of simple green, its low foam and cuts oils pretty dang good. Just hang a trigger bottle on the machine somewhere and spray the bad spots as you ride by them, or spot them before you start. Way more economical than dosing the clean water tank. There’s more than one way to do a thing but we do a couple large aircraft hangar bays every week (and we are the mechanics, not industrial cleaners) this way seems to work good for us. Congrats on the machine, it’s way better than mopping! 😁
Agree. Same pattern the Zamboni uses when resurfacing the ice on a hockey rink. A Zamboni resurfaces a rink without retracing its own track by driving in slightly overlapping concentric ovals, approximately one-half the width of the ice. Turns will be about the same 90 degree radius. Great video Matt. You make repairing a floor scrubber entertaining!
rustyaxelrod - it is plain to see you are very well qualified !! As a retired International Airport Facilities Manager your instructions on floor scrubbing are perfect !! Pre-spotting by hand on really bad areas is a MUST as well as dwell time for the chemicals to work properly !! Sometimes a second time round is necessary - depending on how bad the floor is !!
@@johnking8679 - Thanks John, we didn’t receive any training, they just showed up with the machine one day and said “here ya go, use this”. We kinda figured out what worked by trial and error but the floors look good now and we’ve made it as quick and easy on ourselves as possible. We’re probably missing something and I forgot to stress that it’s very important to wash out the machine as soon as you finish! Just one day of sitting and it turns into a revolting science experiment that can stink-up a large area.
This video demonstrated how amazing having this shop truly is , as you sit and do repairs on that machine in the nice , dry , well lit environment ; nothing worrying other than the ambient noise level . I can remember you doing many repairs in the shipping container shop and there was rain and mud and bugs as well as poor lighting so , the contrast is stark and satisfying .
The laugh of delight at the movement. One of the best success at something not being absolutely broken, I've seen here. Sure there are other celebrations but that 'WHEEEEEEEE!' style of laugh while move ng backwards and then into a circle. Made me laugh as well, even now six or so months on from the first st viewing.
Matt, we are glad you found the Clarke Floor Scrubber that will help you maintain a clean shop. Remember, a clean shop makes many happy smiles and better work performances. Blessings to you.
Awesome! So you should be able to eat off from that nice clean floor! Leave it to Matt to find a broom that can be driven and not pushed LOL.. I am happy for you Matt , that was a really good deal. Thanks for taking us along and of course thumbs UP! 👍
Great video Matt! When I was a young Man, I worked Maintenance for Walmart at 2 different stores. One store I worked at we stripped and waxed one section of the store every night so after 30 days we go around the whole store. Walmart typically used 2 types of floor scrubbers depending how wide your store's aisles were. For the larger stores they use a ride on scrubber that is controlled by joystick so no steering wheel at all. The smaller stores got the walk behind units which work just as well but obviously are more work following them around. Your videos always make my day!
Sailboats are assembled with all systems in place before the put the deck on. So access can be an issue, so the solution is access covers, they are plastic or aluminum, and are not expensive. SO you just cut a hole to access the component then install an access cover. Its a very simple cheap solution. Cheers Fraser
Love it. Check out the driving pattern of a Zamboni for hockey games. Seems like that driving pattern would work well in a big shop like yours. Love the content! I guess if the shop is full that does not work as well ;)
Scrubber tips... Keep the wall to the right, that's why the seat is on that side, there are rollers to protect wall and scrubber, they usually turn tighter to the left. Squeegee is key, keep a good one in it. EMPTY bin and tank every time you use it, keep lid open to dry out, it keeps the smell and mold down. Speed determines the level of clean, slow scrubs better while fast is just "mopping". Scrubbing with no vac is a good way to "soak" the floor then drop the vac and clean it all up.
those wires in the battery area that were left loose were likely for a front/side brush assembly. i spent alot of time using Tennant M30 scrubber sweepers, that had those as well as the drum brushes. the machines we used were constantly neglected, and i always looked after them. one common thing that we had, though i’m not sure if your machine is the same is that the caster wheels on the squeegee bar would often wear out, but ours were large LPG or Diesel powered machines so its likely they wouldn’t face the same problems, but all i can advise is that you keep it clean, replace the squeegees when they wear down (most you can flip the squeegee to get extra life out of them) and enjoy it. OH and a top tip. grab one of those sheering wheel knobs, that lets you rotate the wheel with one hand easier, it makes driving these machines so much more enjoyable.
Well Matt I've seen will it run videos on cars,trucks, aircraft,boats,snowmobiles,locomotives and even some guy that dragged an old road grader that tried to do him in a couple of times out of the brambles but this has got to be the first floor scrubber will it run I've seen. 😂 Congratulations on the shop being ready for move in.
You can see how well it picks up the dust and dirt. Keep on tuning it Matt. That's going to prove to be one of your more regularly used machines. Great find!
Hey Matt! I'm right there with Ben on the importance of keeping that squeegee in good shape! But also, oh man does this video bring back memories! I worked, for a time, for a company contracted with Walmart for floor maintenance, and used a variety of these machines. We had 5 scrubbers including 3 of them being the same as yours. Every single one suffered from issues caused by neglect, the vast majority of them being electrical. A couple of them you had to touch the wires to the terminals to raise and lower the heads. The bosses version of "fixed" was pretty much twisting wires and electrical tape, and never listened when I made suggestions on possible fixes and told me not to mess with it or they'd take it out of my check when I broke it. On the bosses night off one week I brought my whole electronic repair kit to work and totally fixed the one that'd been out of commission for a few weeks. It's amazing how much of a difference it makes when you solder things in place vs just duct taping everything! Got my nuts chewed a bit when the boss found out until he fired up the machine like I kept telling him to do. "Why didn't you tell me you're a technician?" Sigh... Turned out to bite me in the ass because in addition to scrubbing part of the store every night I became "el technico" as well.. Really enjoyed this video and the trip down memory lane. I like to see someone who likes tinkering as much as I do!
Just bought the exact same unit except ours is the disc scrubber- Had same issue withe vacuum- Siliconed the lid to the filter and adjusted squeegee castors- doesn’t leave a drop behind now!! What an amazing thing these little machines are!!
I saw your shop in the last video and I don't think you'd have enough space on the floor to get one good pass through the shop without mounting a snow plow to the front of it first 😆
That's hilarious Wes ... anyone that is an avid Fan of yours like myself knows this would never work unless "Granny Clampett" made you do Spring Cleaning ... LOL
Matt, another great video. Just a tip about the crimping, you should not pre-tin wires before crimping anything onto then because the solder will 'creep' under the pressure, thereby causing a bad connection and therefore heat buildup.
Mr Matt- long time - Scott from Brooklyn nyc - the beginning of your videos with the oversized load rig with Diesel engine sound Coming at and over the camera on the ground followed by silence and the release of air pressure from the brake system at the end is BAD ASS- what a sense of style- it’s like an inside signal to Those who know- fellow diesel rig freaks (my faves MACK BULLDOG R series- R600 (350/400/427/8cyl 500HP/1978 RW-cruiselineC/O SUPERLINER/DM800-) Cruise liner-
The vacuum requires that the tank is sealed! The lid on top and even the drain hose! I haven't been the biggest fan of the term "screaming at the screen", but today I actually felt like it. -Since my workplace's floor cleaner was grey plastic like the one featured in this video and ours did not have any stickers on it I assume that it's basically the same principle at least, so : poor tank seal equals poor vacuum function! As always, great video! I never knew I was so keen on watching a floor scrubber on youtube 😉😆
Never tin wires before crimping them! The solder prevents the crimp from engaging correctly with the wire strands. Then over time as the cable is moved or as it experiences vibration, the relatively soft solder shifts around and leaves voids.
Hi Matt, your reaction when you got the scrubber moving was priceless. "Like a big kid on a bumper car" 🤣. Another piece of industrial kit saved from the scrap heap (With luck) I'm guessing like the machines here in the UK yours might have some circuit boards controlling the functions and that would be the only downside if they fail, apart from that they are usually pretty sturdy so long as you keep the pumps clear. 👍
I'd definitely check the potentiometer and any wiring connections that are potentially exposed to water, I spent a bit of time as an apprentice screwing around keeping those electric industrial trucks going after guys drove them through standing water outside the workshop and those were the top 2 issues I saw with them.
I used to run one once in a while at my work. A few tips that worked for me. #1 run the sprayer and the brush but not the vacuum. Do an entire section like that and then come back over with the vacuum. I’ve noticed this can break up the oil and dirt and let the product soak in and work better. #2 avoid tight turns. Making tight turns makes the snail trails. Try to cut the area in half and make parallel circles and overlap. It may take a little bit longer but cuts down on snail trails. #3 go slow. You’re not in a race and it puts less wear and tear on the machine. Check your squeegees. They’re probably worn out and need replacement.
Back in the early 1990s, I worked at a Grocery Store as the Graveyard "Janitor." I used a walk behind TENANT Model. It worked great, as long as I remembered to drain it at the end of my shift... Oh boy, did it stink if I had forgetten!forgotten! If you can source a 24 volt version, I would highly recommend that you mount a "Battery Tender" at your desired staging/storage location within the shop. And, coat all of the battery connections with Petroleum Jelly to keep the corrosion at bay!
It's true what you said about the battery's my Father was in the Army back in the 1960's and while their he heard about another Soldier who forgot to turn the extraction unit on and the next person who entered created a spark from turning on the lights or sum such and blew off the shed roof and injured himself and a few bystanders. So yes be very careful around batteries.
I'm impressed with your desire to keep your new shop clean, thus this project. To me this shows that you have a high quality attitude. Perhaps I should have already seen that with the shop build videos already, e.g. the foundation and floor.
Thank you Matt for another excellent, entertaining episode! As suggested previously, the condition of the rear (both of them) squeegees is VERY crucial to the performance of the water pick up ability. I work for a large retailer and we always have replacement squeegees available for these scrubbers at all times. One slip or fall due to water on the sales floor equals a possible law suit. Also slow and steady wins the race with these things. Forward speed can easily overcome the ability to pick up the water in due time.
We have a similar unit at work. Don't rely on that vacuum to pick up small bits of dirt and trash. Ours gets plugged all the time with pieces of tape, zip ties, etc. Though ours is a disc and not a drum like you've got.
Matt, you should find a way to crimp it. The problem with solder in this application is when you pull big amps or charge batteries, there is the real possibility for the wire to heat up. If it does, the solder may turn viscous and allow the lead to pop out. Maybe try a hydraulic bearing press?
Looks like there's still an issue with the vacuum since it still leaves some water on the floor, also check the rubber parts, they might be worn down and have holes in them. Sometimes a thorough clean of all the squegee parts will increase suction as well.
Lead Acid batteries release hydrogen on charging, which is lighter than air. So you're fine unless something above the batteries or around them will trap enough to ignite. They also take a while to gas off that much, so no worries, but a good thing to consider.
Missing from the machine is the 150-amp inline fuse (F1 in the schematic) that should be mounted directly to the positive battery terminal. Because your machine mixes detergent directly into the solution tank, you will want to make sure to inspect and clean the solution filter before each use. What you will notice is that a thin, cloudy film will develop inside the filter and clog the filter. (The best description is that it looks like a translucent jellyfish.) For your vacuum problems, the first thing you'll want to check are the seals around the recovery tank. If the gasket around the hinged lid is cracked, the vacuum leak will prevent good suction at the floor. With over 1300 hours, you'll probably want to inspect/replace the vacuum motor carbon brushes. Remove the squeegee assembly and clean the space between the forward and rear squeegee blades. This channel can build up debris and reduce the vacuum flow to the floor. As I told you in an email, you will need to adjust your deck lift actuator limits, because you allowed the nut to spin on the leadscrew while the actuator was removed. Both your deck height and squeegee height are too low and you are tearing up the silicone edges too much. Oh, Error 04 is "Deck Lift Actuator Overload". The Main Machine Controller has detected excessive current to the actuator.
Thank you for all the videos Matt, farmers and zamboni drivers make two ovals out of the area so come down the middle after the first time around that helps with the turning radius, nice to see the snow melted I am in Minnesota and had to shovel wet snow again today
I think the thick blue and black cables that had corroded ends go to the battery, powering the main vaccum. The wires from the tank are for the low water level warning maybe? There's no way those thick gauge wires connect to the small ones
Matt. Ive been a service tech for these floor scrubbers for about 12 years now. With your vacuum problem you definitely need to get new squeegee blades for it. If it still doesn't pick up all the water or if it drains water back down the hose after the vacuum shuts off it may be a bad gasket on the vacuum motor or the fan shell on the motor is rusted out. The drive problem your having is probably just stuck carbon brushes in that drive motor. There are six brushes on that thing. Four around the parameter of the motor and two right underneath where the power leads go in. Hope this is helpful. Love the vidoes, rare to see stuff actually getting fixed instead of just replaced.
Hey, I recognize the plug at 27:00! That's the kind of plug Chevy used for diagnostic purposes all over 80s cars and trucks. I think they were used for testing voltage drops across various circuits, or something.
Having had to make several Anderson plug sets recently I’d highly recommend looking into a hydraulic crimper. The cheaper off brand ones are $100 or less from the usual suspects and are plenty good for semi-regular use.
Yup, once you get some continuous high current going, such as driving a motor, then the solder may start to heat up and compromise. Crimping creates a cold weld which won't break.
I genuinely think that you got an exceptional bargain on that floor scrubber! The issues that you were first presented with were not that big of a deal, although I wouldn't have had a clue about the lift mechanism. Fortunately, your talents and knowledge are vast enough that you could quickly pinpoint where to investigate and resolve as necessary.
My previous life forklift operating OCD gave me a mini panic attack when you didn't lower the forks flat on the floor before exiting and parking. Those things can be serious shin bangers. That sounds like a good band name... 🤣
Always nice to learn something new, even if it is as weird as how the actuator on a floor scrubber is attached, Diesel Creek never fails to toss something new into my brain pan.
Your error code could be your tank and hoses are disconnected from the unit. It requires the hose to complete the "vacuum circuit", also requires the tank to be installed with tank wires connected to operate, possibly to power vacuum.
So now that the shop is basic done, when does the prep begin to build the house? 😀 As much as I love the gearhead vids (and that's what ultimately turned me on to your channel) watching you turn that patch of forest into a driveway and now a shop has been super fun and entertaining to watch and I find myself excited for new video releases related to that. I actually went back and watched all of the vids related to that. Plus I was bummed when you abandoned the abandoned church project. Can't wait to see what comes next!
13:28 you never put solder on a wire before crimping it, just like you never solder a crimp after crimping. A crimp is a cold weld, you can’t achieve that with something covered in lead. Literally everyone on UA-cam gets this wrong 🤷♂️
Great video as always Matt. Looks like you got a great buy...Your shop looks awesome and quite a well deserved change from working out in the elements.Thanks for sharing and stay safe,looking forward to your next video.
So jealous of the concrete and floor scrubber!!!! LOL Even my wife asked if we should get one of those once our concrete is in!!! Yup.. she's a keeper! LOL Awesome job, watching our shop progress gives me inspiration and hope for mine!
Awesome Matt every afternoon in our shop we had one of the guys do the shop floors, the machine operators cleaned their machines and the new guys did the floors with the scrubber so we had a nice clean shop for the following day .We quit at 4pm ,clean up started at 3:30
Yep for $1000 ya did good there bud. Big difference between the 2 sides. Gonna be interesting to see how you set up your shop. Looking forward to seeing it.
Would be really interested to see the condition of the squeegee edge, and if the brush assembly needs servicing at all. Awesome job getting it running again!!
matt you make the best and most interesting videos today on youtube first class even if they were two hours long i would still watch every second of it thank you.
What is the use for water in your Shop? Degreasing machinery, floor cleaner, toilet tank, sink. The creek is right there. Run a flexible pipe with a holding tank to the creek. Solar powered/battery on-demand pump. A well is a lot more $.
Without a doubt-you need to pimp that ride! Baby moon hubcaps, airbrushed flames on the sides, lots of LED lights, high-compression racing stripes, musical horn, etc.
Matt, I've run one of these for several years cleaning our aircraft Hanger floors. We found that when it start jerking like that, the drive motor brushes are dirty or worn out. All the comments about the rubber are spot on. Also, they like to turn one way better than the other as to water passing by the rear rubber.
The land was not blank at the start. Grade was hilly and wooded. After tedious tree and stump removal, he had to create a flat pad by backfilling the low spots toward the creek. The results were a flat and level pad with drainage.
I'm a dairy manager and I use one to clean my floors but it's a walk behind Same thing the water fills out the size of the squeegee when you make a turn you just have to follow it up with a mop. Clark manufacturing was a division of Studebaker motors Corp
Matt you might consider an epoxy floor paint. It protects the concrete and even illuminates the shop more. Also there are fantastic soaps and even waxes that can be used too.
I priced it out, it’s really expensive and they would have put a different finish on the concrete to accept the epoxy. If I wanted it now they would have to grind the floor down
@@Military-Museum-LP There are. Epoxy, urethane, floor paint etc. But they all require a certain pre prep. And most of those include some form of grinding or acid etch. And if not done correctly, will fail in a short time. Note two, some coatings will pull the oil from tires and stain the floor. On top of that, shop floors should have a non skid coating. Expensive proposition. I worked for a company that sold floor coatings.
Matt, I drove industrial scrubbers 12 hour shifts for years. THE single most important thing about scrubbers and how clean they get the floor is A) use enough fluid And B) make sure your squeegie arm has a good sharp edge on the rubber. If it's not flat like a scissor blade with a good edge, it WILL NOT WORK PROPERLY and snail trail your floor.
Indeed and the speed you run it too too fast you have a lot of streaky pass:)
100% need a new squeegee.
Damn 12 hour shifts on a scrubber? How big was that warehouse
@@MookieMan1 most likely. They get old dry and brittle with small tears.
@@zynifi most of these long scrubber shifts are for places like a hospital.
Matt "This is my new Cat D9!" Gets a huge smile on his face.
Also Matt "This is the cheapest floor scrubber I could find!" Gets the exact same smile
Matt’s a simple man, and that’s beautiful haha
He definitely enjoys every thing he does the same way. To the fullest extent possible.
That's why we love him
@@BeatMower your exactly right Stache. Matt's next generation of the 3 R's (or 4) Repurpose, reuse, rebuild!!!
And if all else fails....... recycle.
Another great video, were all pulling for you Matt..❤
Thank you Matt for another excellent, entertaining episode!
I bought the Cheapest Industrial Floor Scrubber I could Find! (How bad can it be?) GOOD VIDIO
Hii
Hii
Nice
Great
This hits home, I have around 1500hrs on a Karcher drum scrubber like this, for a period of 2 years in a house factory.
I was a do-it-all guy over there, but most of my time was spent simply as a janitor cleaning the whole complex to fight the dust and keep humidity at an appropriate level.
They had to replace the squeegie many times before I started there, and it was already pretty worn with missing chunks when I started, so for me it was a question of professional pride.
I made a point out of picking up bolts/nuts/nails etc before I scrubbed anything.
I also figured out how to adjust the squeegie tension so even though it had some serious wear, I never had a snail left over after a pass.
During my tenure never had to replace the squeegie, and weeks after I left someone else destroyed it 🤣
So from experience:
Run it like a lawnmower or plow, do overlaps for better results, always start from the outside and work your way in.
One way to get the floor super clean is use the scrubbing program on about 2/10 to 4/10's water, and let it soak as you go back for another run and just run it on a 50/50 scrub/squeegie program.
If that thing has a soap dispenser and a soap scrubbing program, I recommend using that a couple times a year so you can get all the oil and grease out of the floor as well, concrete doesn't like being contaminated, especially in shifting temperatures.
Also make sure to check the hose between the squeegie and pickup tank, if crud accumulates there you'll be leaving 10-20 gallons of water on the floor, you never know what can get into that hose.
Also clean the squeegie as often as you can, as well as check the drum for debris, the cleaner you can keep the whole rig, the longer it's gonna last!
Don't drive too fast or you're leaving more water and crud than you're picking up, try to angle the squeegie blade like you would with Christine so any excess water goes to the inside instead of into the wall.
Keep adjusting the water program so you never expel more water than you can scrape up, always start on the outside and work your way in.
ALWAYS pick up plastic, and I recommend try to pick up nuts/bolts/nails/screws (which will damage the squeegie).
ALWAYS clean it to the best of your abilities after use, or you'll get muck and crud almost welding itself to the plastic over time, I also recommend taking the squeegie apart (should be just a couple of wing-nuts holding it onto the arm) so you can clean the collector.
It's a good opportunity to scrape the squeegie clean as well.
I can't stress enough that the cleaner you keep it the better results you get, the guys that abused the Karcher before I ran it just didn't care and it showed, I spent hours knocking cakes of crud off it, straightening out dents on the collector, and over-all repairing it, from prior abuse 😁
Sounds like you sure did have pride in what you did. That kind of attention is certainly the hallmarks of a true professional.
@@airplanemaniacgaming7877 Yeah getting a job there depended on me doing good on the trial.
Gave them 2 good years, and for how much other stuff they relied on me to do (welding/fabricating/changing wheels and even got to do a fair bit of construction work) I went above and beyond with the old Karcher😆
Janitor stuff is pretty boring, but was a good atmosphere for the most part, learned a lot.
And it's always nice involving yourself, applying yourself and focusing on work when you have it 🙂
These days I'm on disability (lots of accumulated physical & mental injuries) and have my own shop consisting of almost entirely second hand tools (most of which I also have to fix), fixing my old cars, but I go at it with the same spirit, only at a reduced pace.
Sure you really know about this job and machine! It’s cool to be professional in any work!
Never solder before you crimp. The pressure from the crimp will make the solder creep on you, and lead to a bad connection over time. If you absolutely want to combine crimping and soldering, crimp first and sneak some solder in there after.
This ^^
I've worked with floor scrubbers alot. Pull the squeegee frame off and make sure it's clean. With all the stuff in the hose it could be stopped up and not allowing the vacuum to pick up water. Also check the squeegee edge and make sure it's not wore out. If so you can usually flip them and be good to go unless someone has already used both sides. Next check in the vacuum pump house to make sure it's not clogged up with debris
What brand?
Also make sure the seals on the recovery tank are good. The lid needs to have a good seal in order to generate vacuum at the squeegee
Acid flux solder ? Nope ,not for electrical .
The jump at 16:16 is one of the most relatable "OH THAT ACTUALLY WORKED" moments I've seen yet. The laughter afterwards was contagious as all could be. Happy for you Matt, hope the fun times in the shop continue into the future.
Matt: Quick electrical tech tip... it's not advisable to crimp pre-soldered multi-stranded wires. The lead / tin of the solder crystallises under compression (over time). When it eventually crystallises, the joints loosens in the crimp and can then cause issues with corrosion or high resistance etc. Better to just solder those lugs if they are not tight after crimping. Then you, or the next owner will have less potential issues down the road :)
Agree 100%. High current installations call "solderless connectors" since as you pointed out, they tend to loosen up and cause arcing and eventual failure. Also even with solderless connectors the heat and cool cycles eventually cause loose connections.
@@noelguerrero2770 Soldered connections are not that bad if done properly. Either just solder the connector on, or first crimp the connector onto clean copper wires and then use solder to fill the crimp in to hermetically seal it and give it more strength. Never crimp onto already soldered or tinned wires, as pointed out, the solder will ALWAYS flow away from the joint and cause a loose connection and heat and could start a fire.
Concur: (army electro-mechanical tech - long since retired)
The same applies to tinning wires before putting them in screw lug terminals, you never tin them. Always use ferrules.
@@brainndamage Agree. I do just that with automotive wiring. Crimp and then solder. But our plant installation of three phase 440 volts at 800 amps calls for "solderless". The electrical code mandates it.
Matt, former electric golf cart mechanic here, the jerky acceleration could be due to the batteries being low on voltage. A healthy charged 6 volt deep cell should be at 6.3-6.4 volts, so total pack voltage should be around 25.2 volts. Keep them charged with an actual deep cycle charger, it means everything for the life of your expensive batteries 👍🏻
Matt,
There are epoxy floor coatings to use which will seal the floor. You might want to consider using one to thoroughly seal the floor before dripping oil and other contaminants on to it. It should also make cleaning the floor much easier; much easier than cleaning the raw concrete.
Keep the aspidistra flying!
God bless.
Indeed leaving that concrete floor untreated is really tragic.
@@chromatic91 He put wax on it.
I’ve had bad times with wax only, sealing concrete is an art itself but a penetrating products is a good start, epoxy can lift after a while depending on moisture levels in the concrete but will provide a much better surface that repels water and oil which could be a real issue in a shop. Concrete is like a sponge and gets ugly quickly without proper sealing.
@@JeffreyJobson Indeed, at my work we provide something called Superfloor (Husqvarna) where you polish the concrete to extreme layers then put on a super durable finish. Like all floors it wont last forever, but it will last for a long long long time.
The new roofing foam insulation did a great job of blocking the rain noise. We could hear it but it wasn’t drowning you out.
You can get thousands of gallons of water, all you will ever need, off of that huge roof. We watered a community garden all season with the rain water from a barn roof. Much cheaper than drilling a well. Love your videos. Great work! Keep it up...
@@Carol-lg6bk can't drink it. ALso not so good for toilets.
Carol is right. I have water tanks for 50,000 litres on my house in suburban Melbourne, Australia and my roof area would be way less than yours and our rainfall would also be way less than yours. I would have no hesitation drinking the water but it is not hooked up for drinking water but water is sparkling clean and has been used for more than 10 years for all our hot water and toilets (among other things) without any problems at all. Set the system up with 2 interconnected tanks. Water goes in one tank and is drawn from the other. Any fine sediment collects in the first tank and second remains clean. Have filters but have never needed to clean them when I have checked them. I presume the only thing different there is the colder winters and the freezing temperatures may complicate using tank water.
@@dougwait5311 I too don't understand why they're scared of drinking rain water in the USA. Million year old bad bore water vs beautiful rain water.. our artesian bore in western queensland makes my grass sick
@@93jummy they have listened to, too many uninformed/paranoid web sites. If you let the water settle, filter, take from the top and if concerned about bacteria, boil it. We have an old septic tank that was steamed clean after connected to city sewage system. Have used the rain water for years for irrigating the garden and flowers.
I used to sell these scrubbers and they are good units but as others have said replace the squeegee and brushes for better performance and use a low-foam cleaning solution in the water to keep the vac from sucking foam. Otherwise, they are dynamite units and you got a great deal on that one.
One guy replied that you need to sweep the floor first, Is that true? Kinda seems like a waste of time to have the machine.
@@harpo6203 It helps to have the "chunks" out of the way. There are sweeper/scrubber combinations. I had customers who would dry sweep with the scrubber before using water. If the floor is really dirty, yes, sweep it first.
This is Matt here folks. Use a good shot of wd 40 in recovery tank to kill the foam, Sweep the floor first, this is basically a power mop, not a broom.
Vac motors will fail, brushes wear out.
@@harpo6203 No, that's the whole purpose of the cylindrical decks. They have a hopper for collecting the debris. The hopper is the long part Matt pulls out just before showing the status of the brush.
I used to run a larger unit many moons ago as a teenager, and one thing I remembered about these machines. It was, they had to be run very slow for water pick up. And adjusting the water flow rate was also important. Add to your flow rate until you see a consistent wet brush mark, but no more. Think of it like a wet rag. Wiping off a table without ringing out the excess water. It puddles and leaves too much water. Ring out the rag and very little water residue is left.(Hopefully this makes sense) They also work better with more frequent runs. Our floors were cleaned WEEKLY. You do not want really dirty floors because it turns into a slurry (thick muddy mess) If you stay on top of things this machine will work out great for you. Nice find
I worked at San Diego International Airport and we had some large Industrial buildings as well . We had the exact same machine you have. For best results do NOT run it too fast !! The squeegee blade needs to be in good condition to be able to pick up the water on the floor. It is reversible, meaning when an edge is worn you can turn it over and use the other side. Very important that you empty out the waste (dirty water) tank after EVERY cleaning. Use proper chemicals or you will damage some of the tanks and/or hoses.
Other than that, you have picked up one heck of a deal, Matt !! Good for you, my friend. You're technically minded and it didn't take you long to figure out why you had an error code and how to fix the other parts that weren't working properly !! Best wishes for a CLEAN floor in your new Dream Shop, Matt !!
Our floors get caked in vitamin powder and thst turns into a slurry when wet and dries like concrete if not scrubbed we use a chlorinated caustic detergent that cuts through protein residue and grease
ok
27:00 that was like my bmw, their pre wired for all kinds of options. All you had to do was buy the part and it would function.
I had to rebuild one of these scrubbers at a previous job. The most important thing about it is the scrubber deck pressure against the floor. It is adjusted with the 2 piece rod attached to the actuator. Next make sure your vaccum system pressure is correct. When the pick up pressure is right you should not be able to lift the lid on the dirty water collection tank. Then make sure your scrubber deck is level from side to side. The squeegee and brush should just slightly flex against the floor. The water pattern yours is leaving says there is a slight vaccum pressure leak, and you said it is leaving water when you turn. So clean the water pickup at the squeegee and make sure your dirty water tank seals are all good and not rotted. When you start looking for parts, pricewise, anything that you can get and avoid the manufacturer is better. They are astronomical on their prices. Not bad, you were correct on the code 04 is the deck height pressure sensor. I enjoy the videos. Thanks. Congrats on the shop. It looks awesome. I look forward to more.
Only on Diesel Creek will you find a high speed montage of a floor scrubber in operation underscored by the Semi Supervillains. That and the laughter of pure joy when it first started moving are why i watch this channel
Matt, your channel is literally my favorite channel on UA-cam. I get so excited when you drop a new video, no matter what it is. I learn so much from watching you learn, and also from watching you work on the things you already know a lot about. Thanks for being you!
From working the last 24years in the electronic industry i have seen my fair bit of crimped solder joints that have failed, due to the fact that the solder will cold flow over time, instead of soldering the cables, use the same strands from another piece of wire and fill up the reaming space in the pin with copper wires of the same dimension, this is how it's done and allowed to be done in the industry, otherwise love your channel.
Im a industrial repairman, these scubbers do good as job as any but all scrubbers need constant maintenance, adjustment, repair because everyone uses them as if they are unbreakable. They wont empty, rinse them with every use. When you hit things too hard, the bolt together frame gets knocked out of alignment. If you use them reasonably careful and maintain the basics they could last forever.
I went to the custodial program at Michigan Career and Technical Institute for 20 weeks of janitorial training From Feb 21, to July 6 of 2006. I have had to clean and repair several scrubbers ever since I started work here in Ohio in August of 2006. The previous job I had used Karcher cleaning equipment, and I have experienced quite a few reliability issues with their products to the point I can't recommend Karcher to anyone. The current job I work at uses a Minuteman E 20 walk behind scrubber, and the batteries already need to be replaced because nobody bothered to check and fill the water level in the batteries. Once the church I am employed at replaces the batteries, I will keep up on the battery maintenance. Be sure to drain both the solution and recovery tanks, rotate the brushes to keep wear on bristles even, clean the scrub deck and squeegee, and leave both tanks open to let them air out so odor-causing bacteria doesn't grow. Use a defoamer in the recovery tank to help prevent foam build up, which could damage the vac motor, and run the vac motor for a minute or two after cleaning the tank to help remove any moisture from the vac motor, so it doesn't rust up. I have had good luck with Tennant and RPS corp (Factory Cat and Tomcat floor scrubbers). Karcher and Windsor equipment made after 2003 are junk. If the floor is really dirty, you might need to "double scrub" which you have the brushes and water going, but the vac motor is not on. This allows the water and cleaning solution to tackle heavier soils. Then go back over it again with the brushes, water and vac motor running.
Nice addition to the shop. A previous supervisor used to insist our work areas were pristine at the start and end of each day, I never got out of that habit. It's certainly safer and definitely easier to find things if you drop them, but it just 'feels' so much nicer to work in a clean space.
Matt, when you first got the cleaner moving and you laughed while going in circles, you had me laughing too. Shop looks great. Great video.
What was really nice to see is you working inside, while it was raining that we could barely hear, and your out of the wind and not getting wet. Congratulations on your new shop. Can’t wait to watch you get things set up.
I really don't know why I would find it interesting watching somebody work on a floor scrubber but I enjoyed every minute of it I think it's because of how you troubleshoot the problem to get to the ultimate solution. Great job. Also the merch is top-notch. The t-shirts are nice and heavy and the graphics on them just pop. Don't forget stickers for your tool boxes.
Sir, I am an custodial maintenance scrubber operator. I currently run a similar machine daily. The comments about replacing the scrubbers squeegee rubber and rubber side blades are spot on. The manufacturer will probably still offer the right blades for sale fairly cheap. And if that doesn't give you the exact scrub you need, there should be a leveling bolt on the rear assembly to let you dial in an eve scrub.
I swear I could watch you fix the kitchen faucet and be entertained 🤣
Small tip, run a pattern like you were plowing a field. When ya get to the end of the bay, only come across halfway then run back longways. Each lap is the same size circle, your just moving it over. You can easily double pass the center if it needs it too (often the dirtiest part). The squeegee will track the puddle a little better too. The squeegee is gonna miss a narrow spot on the turns because of geometry or science or somthing. If it’s really dirty/greasy, like an oil spill stain, we sometimes wet scrub without the vac/squeegee and let the soap sit a few minutes then go over it again. The best degreaser we’ve found for this is the aviation type of simple green, its low foam and cuts oils pretty dang good. Just hang a trigger bottle on the machine somewhere and spray the bad spots as you ride by them, or spot them before you start. Way more economical than dosing the clean water tank.
There’s more than one way to do a thing but we do a couple large aircraft hangar bays every week (and we are the mechanics, not industrial cleaners) this way seems to work good for us. Congrats on the machine, it’s way better than mopping! 😁
Agree. Same pattern the Zamboni uses when resurfacing the ice on a hockey rink. A Zamboni resurfaces a rink without retracing its own track by driving in slightly overlapping concentric ovals, approximately one-half the width of the ice. Turns will be about the same 90 degree radius. Great video Matt. You make repairing a floor scrubber entertaining!
was gonna say that's not how you plow a field, but forgot you don't use reversible plows in the US.
same way i cut my grass
rustyaxelrod - it is plain to see you are very well qualified !!
As a retired International Airport Facilities Manager your instructions on floor scrubbing are perfect !! Pre-spotting by hand on really bad areas is a MUST as well as dwell time for the chemicals to work properly !! Sometimes a second time round is necessary - depending on how bad the floor is !!
@@johnking8679 - Thanks John, we didn’t receive any training, they just showed up with the machine one day and said “here ya go, use this”. We kinda figured out what worked by trial and error but the floors look good now and we’ve made it as quick and easy on ourselves as possible. We’re probably missing something and I forgot to stress that it’s very important to wash out the machine as soon as you finish! Just one day of sitting and it turns into a revolting science experiment that can stink-up a large area.
This video demonstrated how amazing having this shop truly is , as you sit and do repairs on that machine in the nice , dry , well lit environment ; nothing worrying other than the ambient noise level . I can remember you doing many repairs in the shipping container shop and there was rain and mud and bugs as well as poor lighting so , the contrast is stark and satisfying .
ok
I absolutely love this entry clip. The growl of that old engine and the whine of those square-cut gears... Old Iron in motion!!!
The laugh of delight at the movement. One of the best success at something not being absolutely broken, I've seen here. Sure there are other celebrations but that 'WHEEEEEEEE!' style of laugh while move ng backwards and then into a circle. Made me laugh as well, even now six or so months on from the first st viewing.
Matt, we are glad you found the Clarke Floor Scrubber that will help you maintain a clean shop. Remember, a clean shop makes many happy smiles and better work performances. Blessings to you.
Awesome! So you should be able to eat off from that nice clean floor! Leave it to Matt to find a broom that can be driven and not pushed LOL.. I am happy for you Matt , that was a really good deal. Thanks for taking us along and of course thumbs UP! 👍
Great video Matt! When I was a young Man, I worked Maintenance for Walmart at 2 different stores. One store I worked at we stripped and waxed one section of the store every night so after 30 days we go around the whole store. Walmart typically used 2 types of floor scrubbers depending how wide your store's aisles were. For the larger stores they use a ride on scrubber that is controlled by joystick so no steering wheel at all. The smaller stores got the walk behind units which work just as well but obviously are more work following them around. Your videos always make my day!
Interesting little scrubber fix video Matt 38:14 @Diesel Creek
Sailboats are assembled with all systems in place before the put the deck on. So access can be an issue, so the solution is access covers, they are plastic or aluminum, and are not expensive. SO you just cut a hole to access the component then install an access cover. Its a very simple cheap solution. Cheers Fraser
Great little machine, also ensures that the shop doesnt get clogged completely in order to drive this around a few lanes :)
That's true!
Love it. Check out the driving pattern of a Zamboni for hockey games. Seems like that driving pattern would work well in a big shop like yours. Love the content! I guess if the shop is full that does not work as well ;)
@@DieselCreek Tell me you paid $65K for a TD25 ??? !!!
@@MrChassmith haha noooo, I wish
Matt its good to see you go about everything you do with the same enthusiasm. No mater how big or small .
Only Diesel Creek could make a floor cleaner video so interesting!
agreed!
Scrubber tips... Keep the wall to the right, that's why the seat is on that side, there are rollers to protect wall and scrubber, they usually turn tighter to the left. Squeegee is key, keep a good one in it. EMPTY bin and tank every time you use it, keep lid open to dry out, it keeps the smell and mold down. Speed determines the level of clean, slow scrubs better while fast is just "mopping". Scrubbing with no vac is a good way to "soak" the floor then drop the vac and clean it all up.
those wires in the battery area that were left loose were likely for a front/side brush assembly. i spent alot of time using Tennant M30 scrubber sweepers, that had those as well as the drum brushes. the machines we used were constantly neglected, and i always looked after them. one common thing that we had, though i’m not sure if your machine is the same is that the caster wheels on the squeegee bar would often wear out, but ours were large LPG or Diesel powered machines so its likely they wouldn’t face the same problems, but all i can advise is that you keep it clean, replace the squeegees when they wear down (most you can flip the squeegee to get extra life out of them) and enjoy it. OH and a top tip. grab one of those sheering wheel knobs, that lets you rotate the wheel with one hand easier, it makes driving these machines so much more enjoyable.
Well Matt I've seen will it run videos on cars,trucks, aircraft,boats,snowmobiles,locomotives and even some guy that dragged an old road grader that tried to do him in a couple of times out of the brambles but this has got to be the first floor scrubber will it run I've seen. 😂
Congratulations on the shop being ready for move in.
You can see how well it picks up the dust and dirt. Keep on tuning it Matt. That's going to prove to be one of your more regularly used machines. Great find!
Very interesting. Good troubleshooting skills. Looking forward to new projects!
Hey Matt! I'm right there with Ben on the importance of keeping that squeegee in good shape! But also, oh man does this video bring back memories! I worked, for a time, for a company contracted with Walmart for floor maintenance, and used a variety of these machines. We had 5 scrubbers including 3 of them being the same as yours. Every single one suffered from issues caused by neglect, the vast majority of them being electrical. A couple of them you had to touch the wires to the terminals to raise and lower the heads. The bosses version of "fixed" was pretty much twisting wires and electrical tape, and never listened when I made suggestions on possible fixes and told me not to mess with it or they'd take it out of my check when I broke it. On the bosses night off one week I brought my whole electronic repair kit to work and totally fixed the one that'd been out of commission for a few weeks. It's amazing how much of a difference it makes when you solder things in place vs just duct taping everything! Got my nuts chewed a bit when the boss found out until he fired up the machine like I kept telling him to do. "Why didn't you tell me you're a technician?" Sigh... Turned out to bite me in the ass because in addition to scrubbing part of the store every night I became "el technico" as well.. Really enjoyed this video and the trip down memory lane. I like to see someone who likes tinkering as much as I do!
Just bought the exact same unit except ours is the disc scrubber-
Had same issue withe vacuum-
Siliconed the lid to the filter and adjusted squeegee castors- doesn’t leave a drop behind now!!
What an amazing thing these little machines are!!
16:35 I think we can all relate to this joy
Using that in my shop would probably be considered cruel and unusual punishment!
I saw your shop in the last video and I don't think you'd have enough space on the floor to get one good pass through the shop without mounting a snow plow to the front of it first 😆
You do that and you’ll scare away all of Max’s little targets.
@@callen6893
LOL "Max's Pest Control Company" 😂
That's hilarious Wes ... anyone that is an avid Fan of yours like myself knows this would never work unless "Granny Clampett" made you do Spring Cleaning ... LOL
Hahaha don’t think max would approve Wes dirty floor is a busy floor 😉👍🔧🔧🔧
what a steal of a buy ! great results and if you do a second thorough once over and fix the last gremlins this is an awesome deal !
Matt, another great video. Just a tip about the crimping, you should not pre-tin wires before crimping anything onto then because the solder will 'creep' under the pressure, thereby causing a bad connection and therefore heat buildup.
Mr Matt- long time - Scott from Brooklyn nyc - the beginning of your videos with the oversized load rig with Diesel engine sound
Coming at and over the camera on the ground followed by silence and the release of air pressure from the brake system at the end is BAD ASS- what a sense of style- it’s like an inside signal to
Those who know- fellow diesel rig freaks (my faves MACK BULLDOG
R series- R600 (350/400/427/8cyl 500HP/1978 RW-cruiselineC/O
SUPERLINER/DM800-)
Cruise liner-
The vacuum requires that the tank is sealed! The lid on top and even the drain hose!
I haven't been the biggest fan of the term "screaming at the screen", but today I actually felt like it. -Since my workplace's floor cleaner was grey plastic like the one featured in this video and ours did not have any stickers on it I assume that it's basically the same principle at least, so : poor tank seal equals poor vacuum function!
As always, great video! I never knew I was so keen on watching a floor scrubber on youtube 😉😆
Never tin wires before crimping them!
The solder prevents the crimp from engaging correctly with the wire strands. Then over time as the cable is moved or as it experiences vibration, the relatively soft solder shifts around and leaves voids.
Hi Matt, your reaction when you got the scrubber moving was priceless. "Like a big kid on a bumper car" 🤣. Another piece of industrial kit saved from the scrap heap (With luck) I'm guessing like the machines here in the UK yours might have some circuit boards controlling the functions and that would be the only downside if they fail, apart from that they are usually pretty sturdy so long as you keep the pumps clear. 👍
I'd definitely check the potentiometer and any wiring connections that are potentially exposed to water, I spent a bit of time as an apprentice screwing around keeping those electric industrial trucks going after guys drove them through standing water outside the workshop and those were the top 2 issues I saw with them.
I used to run one once in a while at my work. A few tips that worked for me. #1 run the sprayer and the brush but not the vacuum. Do an entire section like that and then come back over with the vacuum. I’ve noticed this can break up the oil and dirt and let the product soak in and work better. #2 avoid tight turns. Making tight turns makes the snail trails. Try to cut the area in half and make parallel circles and overlap. It may take a little bit longer but cuts down on snail trails. #3 go slow. You’re not in a race and it puts less wear and tear on the machine.
Check your squeegees. They’re probably worn out and need replacement.
Back in the early 1990s, I worked at a Grocery Store as the Graveyard "Janitor."
I used a walk behind TENANT Model. It worked great, as long as I remembered to drain it at the end of my shift...
Oh boy, did it stink if I had forgetten!forgotten!
If you can source a 24 volt version, I would highly recommend that you mount a "Battery Tender" at your desired staging/storage location within the shop.
And, coat all of the battery connections with Petroleum Jelly to keep the corrosion at bay!
It's true what you said about the battery's my Father was in the Army back in the 1960's and while their he heard about another Soldier who forgot to turn the extraction unit on and the next person who entered created a spark from turning on the lights or sum such and blew off the shed roof and injured himself and a few bystanders.
So yes be very careful around batteries.
I'm impressed with your desire to keep your new shop clean, thus this project. To me this shows that you have a high quality attitude. Perhaps I should have already seen that with the shop build videos already, e.g. the foundation and floor.
Thank you Matt for another excellent, entertaining episode! As suggested previously, the condition of the rear (both of them) squeegees is VERY crucial to the performance of the water pick up ability. I work for a large retailer and we always have replacement squeegees available for these scrubbers at all times. One slip or fall due to water on the sales floor equals a possible law suit. Also slow and steady wins the race with these things. Forward speed can easily overcome the ability to pick up the water in due time.
We have a similar unit at work. Don't rely on that vacuum to pick up small bits of dirt and trash. Ours gets plugged all the time with pieces of tape, zip ties, etc. Though ours is a disc and not a drum like you've got.
Matt, you should find a way to crimp it. The problem with solder in this application is when you pull big amps or charge batteries, there is the real possibility for the wire to heat up. If it does, the solder may turn viscous and allow the lead to pop out. Maybe try a hydraulic bearing press?
This was very satisfying to watch. Love it when a “good deal” turns out to be a pretty darn great deal! Love your channel.
Looks like there's still an issue with the vacuum since it still leaves some water on the floor, also check the rubber parts, they might be worn down and have holes in them. Sometimes a thorough clean of all the squegee parts will increase suction as well.
You watch.....you'll never have much room left in your shop to ever use that beast! The hand push broom is still king 😊
Lead Acid batteries release hydrogen on charging, which is lighter than air. So you're fine unless something above the batteries or around them will trap enough to ignite. They also take a while to gas off that much, so no worries, but a good thing to consider.
Missing from the machine is the 150-amp inline fuse (F1 in the schematic) that should be mounted directly to the positive battery terminal.
Because your machine mixes detergent directly into the solution tank, you will want to make sure to inspect and clean the solution filter before each use. What you will notice is that a thin, cloudy film will develop inside the filter and clog the filter. (The best description is that it looks like a translucent jellyfish.)
For your vacuum problems, the first thing you'll want to check are the seals around the recovery tank. If the gasket around the hinged lid is cracked, the vacuum leak will prevent good suction at the floor.
With over 1300 hours, you'll probably want to inspect/replace the vacuum motor carbon brushes.
Remove the squeegee assembly and clean the space between the forward and rear squeegee blades. This channel can build up debris and reduce the vacuum flow to the floor.
As I told you in an email, you will need to adjust your deck lift actuator limits, because you allowed the nut to spin on the leadscrew while the actuator was removed.
Both your deck height and squeegee height are too low and you are tearing up the silicone edges too much.
Oh, Error 04 is "Deck Lift Actuator Overload". The Main Machine Controller has detected excessive current to the actuator.
This sounds like you know your stuff
@@khysennewbert591 Thanks, yeah. I'm the guy that writes the repair manuals for these...although not this machine; it's before my time.
Keep in mind Matt "hates" messing with electrical crap, but always manages to make things work.😅😊
Another 44 minutes of joy added to my life! Thanks Matt!!!
That was a great deal on the floor scrubber, a dream garage for most guys, you really did an outstanding job on it, just awesome.
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Thank you for all the videos Matt, farmers and zamboni drivers make two ovals out of the area so come down the middle after the first time around that helps with the turning radius, nice to see the snow melted I am in Minnesota and had to shovel wet snow again today
I think the thick blue and black cables that had corroded ends go to the battery, powering the main vaccum. The wires from the tank are for the low water level warning maybe? There's no way those thick gauge wires connect to the small ones
When I woke this morning, I didn't think I'd be spending my lunch hour watching someone get a floor scrubber working. But here we are!
I sweep my shop with a leaf blower. Quick enough to do it regularly. 😊
Matt. Ive been a service tech for these floor scrubbers for about 12 years now. With your vacuum problem you definitely need to get new squeegee blades for it. If it still doesn't pick up all the water or if it drains water back down the hose after the vacuum shuts off it may be a bad gasket on the vacuum motor or the fan shell on the motor is rusted out. The drive problem your having is probably just stuck carbon brushes in that drive motor. There are six brushes on that thing. Four around the parameter of the motor and two right underneath where the power leads go in. Hope this is helpful. Love the vidoes, rare to see stuff actually getting fixed instead of just replaced.
Hey, I recognize the plug at 27:00! That's the kind of plug Chevy used for diagnostic purposes all over 80s cars and trucks. I think they were used for testing voltage drops across various circuits, or something.
Having had to make several Anderson plug sets recently I’d highly recommend looking into a hydraulic crimper. The cheaper off brand ones are $100 or less from the usual suspects and are plenty good for semi-regular use.
Yup, once you get some continuous high current going, such as driving a motor, then the solder may start to heat up and compromise. Crimping creates a cold weld which won't break.
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@@minhvan1216 Are you okay lil' robot?
Great job Matt, always learning is key to life. Maybe Eva could give it a spin.
I genuinely think that you got an exceptional bargain on that floor scrubber! The issues that you were first presented with were not that big of a deal, although I wouldn't have had a clue about the lift mechanism. Fortunately, your talents and knowledge are vast enough that you could quickly pinpoint where to investigate and resolve as necessary.
My previous life forklift operating OCD gave me a mini panic attack when you didn't lower the forks flat on the floor before exiting and parking. Those things can be serious shin bangers. That sounds like a good band name... 🤣
Seems to be working pretty well from what i can see a little bit of streaking but not to bad Matt 39:00 @Diesel Creek
Always nice to learn something new, even if it is as weird as how the actuator on a floor scrubber is attached, Diesel Creek never fails to toss something new into my brain pan.
Your error code could be your tank and hoses are disconnected from the unit. It requires the hose to complete the "vacuum circuit", also requires the tank to be installed with tank wires connected to operate, possibly to power vacuum.
Nope. Error Code 04 is for "Deck Lift Actuator Overload". The Main Machine Controller has detected excessive current in the deck lift actuator.
So now that the shop is basic done, when does the prep begin to build the house? 😀 As much as I love the gearhead vids (and that's what ultimately turned me on to your channel) watching you turn that patch of forest into a driveway and now a shop has been super fun and entertaining to watch and I find myself excited for new video releases related to that. I actually went back and watched all of the vids related to that. Plus I was bummed when you abandoned the abandoned church project. Can't wait to see what comes next!
Very good job Matt ! As always. Thanks for sharing.
13:28 you never put solder on a wire before crimping it, just like you never solder a crimp after crimping. A crimp is a cold weld, you can’t achieve that with something covered in lead. Literally everyone on UA-cam gets this wrong 🤷♂️
Great video as always Matt. Looks like you got a great buy...Your shop looks awesome and quite a well deserved change from working out in the elements.Thanks for sharing and stay safe,looking forward to your next video.
I'm very proud of you having your own shop to work in there . thumbs up Matt
So jealous of the concrete and floor scrubber!!!! LOL Even my wife asked if we should get one of those once our concrete is in!!! Yup.. she's a keeper! LOL Awesome job, watching our shop progress gives me inspiration and hope for mine!
Awesome Matt every afternoon in our shop we had one of the guys do the shop floors, the machine operators cleaned their machines and the new guys did the floors with the scrubber so we had a nice clean shop for the following day .We quit at 4pm ,clean up started at 3:30
1:34 you know Matt Creek, you are JUST EXACTLY like me!!! I want to keep t clean all the time!!!! Especially Floors
Yep for $1000 ya did good there bud. Big difference between the 2 sides. Gonna be interesting to see how you set up your shop. Looking forward to seeing it.
Would be really interested to see the condition of the squeegee edge, and if the brush assembly needs servicing at all.
Awesome job getting it running again!!
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Youre supposed to replace the suction bar rubbers at least once a year. They harden over time and are pretty much useless after that.
matt you make the best and most interesting videos today on youtube first class even if they were two hours long i would still watch every second of it thank you.
Glad you like them!
What is the use for water in your Shop?
Degreasing machinery, floor cleaner, toilet tank, sink.
The creek is right there. Run a flexible pipe with a holding tank to the creek.
Solar powered/battery on-demand pump. A well is a lot more $.
Without a doubt-you need to pimp that ride! Baby moon hubcaps, airbrushed flames on the sides, lots of LED lights, high-compression racing stripes, musical horn, etc.
Matt, I've run one of these for several years cleaning our aircraft Hanger floors. We found that when it start jerking like that, the drive motor brushes are dirty or worn out. All the comments about the rubber are spot on. Also, they like to turn one way better than the other as to water passing by the rear rubber.
Matt, I so enjoy your videos, transformation of the blank land, and your skills in doing just about everything.
The land was not blank at the start. Grade was hilly and wooded. After tedious tree and stump removal, he had to create a flat pad by backfilling the low spots toward the creek. The results were a flat and level pad with drainage.
Good morning Matt your shop is looking fantastic would love to be able to build one like it
1000 dollars what a sweet deal Matt 2:48 @Diesel Creek
I'm a dairy manager and I use one to clean my floors but it's a walk behind
Same thing the water fills out the size of the squeegee when you make a turn you just have to follow it up with a mop. Clark manufacturing was a division of Studebaker motors Corp
Matt you might consider an epoxy floor paint. It protects the concrete and even illuminates the shop more. Also there are fantastic soaps and even waxes that can be used too.
I priced it out, it’s really expensive and they would have put a different finish on the concrete to accept the epoxy. If I wanted it now they would have to grind the floor down
@@DieselCreek. You are correct Matt. But the coating protects the concrete completely. Maybe there are other options there in the USA.
@@Military-Museum-LP There are. Epoxy, urethane, floor paint etc. But they all require a certain pre prep. And most of those include some form of grinding or acid etch. And if not done correctly, will fail in a short time. Note two, some coatings will pull the oil from tires and stain the floor. On top of that, shop floors should have a non skid coating. Expensive proposition. I worked for a company that sold floor coatings.