Nick and crew...excellent video, as always! Just to clarify what we found post dyno inspection...the lifters that were supplied are the AMC style. They're different than standard OE Chrysler lifters in that they are designed to oil through the pushrods, AND their cup height is approximately .025 deeper than stock. With the original style steel shim head gaskets they are close enough to work, but with a composite gasket as was used here, they come up too short to work with stock length pushrods. Essentially each lifter represented an internal oil leak which would get worse as the engine warmed up. A High Volume oil pump would have overcome most of that, but there would still be a lack of lifter preload. That was the reason for the pressure drop. We also had a mis communication when discussing the ignition timing. Nick set it for 32 degrees at 2000 RPM, which would have been perfect IF we had curved the distributor. He didn't know this, and so total timing was somewhere in the range of 46 degrees at 3500. THANKFULLY, Nick pulled the plug at 5000 RPM or things could have gotten real ugly! Brian is in the process of gathering the right parts, and I can't wait to see what this thing does once these bugs are worked out. My prediction is 350 horse @ 6200..let's see how that goes. All in all, I can honestly say this was the most fun I've had since I started doing UA-cam a couple of years ago. It was a filthy, exhausting fiasco...in other words, an ultimate gearhead experience! Looking forward to whatever we can come up with next. You guys are awesome!
bryan of lunaroutlaws garage is the luckiest newest mopar owner on the planet , he got to work with 2 mopar wrenching legends , nick panaritis and uncle tony
Not much Experience with Chrysler Engines, but I know of several cases where guys stuck Chevy Lifters in Buick engines and had Oil Pressure Problems, especially on the V6.
@@jeffparris8387 I don't think you realize WHY a dirty engine was built. It was done this way (dirty, fast, and rushed) as a fun little 'marathon' project just to see what would happen in the numbers. Kinda like back in the days when you'd slam together whatever you could with whatever you had at hand, and a virtually zero dollar budget. No other reason than that, as I'm sure you know that this is not par the course per Tony, Nick, or any of those guys. :)
I've built so many 318s throughout the years, from the old polyheads to the magnums. It never ceases to amaze me how willing to run and how amazingly durable these engines are. That low amount of oil pressure really didn't worry me. Those engines were designed as the general V8 workhorse throughout Chryslers entire line from the very get go. They are designed with loose tolerances for that intended purpose. I've seen many go on for miles with low oil pressure and keep on going strong! I've seen some continue to run with a hole in the side of the block being reduced to a V7 and still run as if nothing was wrong. Truly amazing little V8s and among one of my favorite engines.
I thought that the lifters clacked a bit. In my experience they should not make much noise. But I have more experience with the old 383 though. On my old -69 T&C I got low pressure warning while on a long roadtrip. Managed to use a gauge to test it, and it was fine. I suspected the electric sensor was failing as the engine was dead quiet on both idle and rev. Had to disconnect the sensor wiring as the glowing warning lamp really stressed me out :)
Rebuilt one that had thrown #2 rod. It was still on the crank but broke loose from the rod pin. Was in a big "S".Girl kept driving for 4 months. We asked if at any time the engine made noise. Said yes going around Lake Cresent but quit after a while. Just had a slight miss and oil on plug. Had a rod bearing go bad in my 318. Ran it for months that way. Never over revved it. Rebuilt it with 360 heads, purple grind 340 and windage tray. It made that cuda' move!
I ran a 318 in my mud truck little did I know that the 360 fly wheel I had on the engine was balanced. It lasted some good 5000 rpm runs at the mud bogs for a few years before it blew up
I had Dodge Vans in my plumbing business for some 30 years all had 318's in them and never blew one up, put some miles on the ole girls! Good Motors they finally wouldn't pass Smog in the California State and had to retire them, I sold them to Mexica's and they went to Mexico. They might be running to this day. LOL
I agree except this one wasn't sitting between two fenders with tranny attached and bolted to the mounts. May as well get it halfway decent while it's on the bench.
One of the reasons Nick has such a great amount of followers is He's a genuinely great guy, all that time & effort to help out with this engine build & well worth watching.
Love to see you guys all respecting each others abilities AND short comings. Not a bad word said about the builder, the owner, NOTHING. Great people, great channels. Nick, my hat's off to you... you gave it 100% in troubleshooting. Brian, keep up the good work and keep learning, and Tony... don't let this bring you down... slam it back together and get it back on the dyno!
318, I was absolutely merciless on one when I was 14 and bought my first mopar. The engine survived through three transmissions, here’s to many happy miles for you and your engine. Thank you to all the channels, you just don’t see this kind of grace being passed around, if not for this community of gear heads. Thank you for taking myself back and putting aside the stress and grief my family and I have been through. Thank you Nick, Vasily and Tony. You guys are real life heros.
Michael Fitzgerald my second car was a 73 Satellite with a 318. Started driving it in 1980 with 140,000 miles on it and it was my daily driver until well after graduate school in the 90s... and the it was a backup car for another 20 years. I donated it, still running and driving, in 2013 with >436,000 miles. For my money, the 318 is even more brutally reliable than a slant-6.
Long ago we had lots of mopar engines kicking around. 318 360 340 + 383 440s... Parts engines that we would Rob if we had a failure. And of course there were failures but nothing major. Usually the valve train components got scavenged most. The factory stamped steel rocker shaft and Rockers were actually pretty great for the most part. But once we started throwing much more aggressive cams, headers valve springs excetera... You start finding the weak spots of factory components. I have literally shoved pushrods right through the factory rockers, and also bent pushrods, Twisted off oil pump drives, the list just is extensive but no Rod piston or crank failures. Always use a high volume pump of good quality. I think that's what saved a lot of my aggressive beating on these engines. And I was definitely hard on them LOL. Great memories and a great video from you guys also. A lot of us guys grew up in the 70s as shade-tree mechanics basically, but we could get our hands on .. new cams Etc but they were old in the Box. And we use them, and they actually worked great. The street seeing is a whole different thing then serious competition. When you don't have a lot of money it really is more about fun and keeping the thing together. We roasted a lot of 727 Transmissions, changed pumps in the Transmissions, put shift kits in them, worked on everything ourselves. Let me tell you, dirty engines really can run great LOL. And they were fairly cheap. I always used Michigan 77 bearings, fully grooved rod and main bearings and a high-quality high volume oil pump. Putting enough oil volume through an engine non obstructed is the key to longevity. No idea how many sets of tires we went through back in the day. used to really piss the neighbors off LOL. However we drag raced about four miles from where I live and it was a nice open one-way traffic situation. We never lost anybody and we never had any wrecks. People took the street racing serious and played it safe as could be. Those that were killed in automobiles had actually died in genuine accidents not related to racing. This Memorial Day I went to some of their graves. It's tough to look down and remember their youthful faces just as our own more than 40 years ago they have laid there asleep in the grave. Be safe out there people. the track is the place to race not the street. if you have to drive your car fast and most people will :-) do it some place out in the country at least where you have a good view and you are not endangering anyone else. Deer moose and Bear do not make good hood ornaments, and trees won't move out of the way either. think on those things long before you get behind the wheel and never touch the alcohol with those steering wheels in your hand.
Thank you Nick for being a part of the collaboration and a thumbs up to George for his video and editing. The whole build has been entertaining and informative. May you stay healthy a nd safe.
Thanks Nick, Uncle Tony, and all the true friends helping a good young guy along. Brian is the kind of guy that lifts others with his positive attitude. Good on all of you! Now, I can't wait to see the 318 in it's glory...
I love how you check everything and have the answers to send them in the right direction. One thing for sure it does no good to rush building anything. That engine should have atleast been cleaned. All that metal had to hurt the motor. Hopefully they will pull it apart and get it all right. I'm looking forward to the next trip to the dyno. Great video Nick, thanks Sid
This troubleshooting process is much more interesting and informative than when everything works right the first time. It's learning the logical, step by step thought process involved in solving a problem that could have multiple causes. Thanks for showing the whole thing.
My brother and I have rebuilt many engines under the carport. We went thru a lot of easy off oven cleaner and a whole lot of quarters at the car wash. We put high pressure water in every passage and journal and bolt hole. Don't think we ever put one back together with that much crud on the inside. But man, talking about this sure brings the memories back.
Had to rebuild an engine in a weekend for my daily driver once. Not much money to do it on. Bought a ring kit from PAW. I took a 55 gal drum put the block in it filled it with Castro super clean. And boiled the block for a whole day. A engine rebuild has to start with a clean block.
Hey Joe, how do you prevent rust when washing the block at the car wash. I used to be stationed on the coast-rust occurred so fast there it is hard to believe that you would not create problems doing this. Obviously a wipe down, hot air blow down and maybe something like WD-40 but still, very hard to believe-Respectfully request your input. @ Joe Bishop, Or anyone with experience.
@@johnanderson660 We were in North East Mississippi, so we didn't have to deal with salt air. But, we would basically just wipe it out really good and wipe the insides down with regular motor oil. Then we would tape up anything that didn't get paint and would paint the block with a high heat spray paint. Even on the coast, if you blow it out with air right away and give it a good coat of oil, you should be ok. Honing the cylenders and where the bearings go normally takes care of anything that might build up between cleaning and assembly.
That and steel brushes . back to the car wash and more inspection and pressure washing. No excuses for dirty parts man.lazy. if you have time to smoke then I dont want your help. Why would you disease yourself.
Another great video, guys! It’s always exciting to watch a 426 Hemi make 500 bhp the first time it’s started, but this little 318 is a lot closer to how almost all of us start. Working with friends to solve the riddles and mysteries of a budget build is what gets us hooked in this hobby, and what gives us knowledge to go forward with. This has been one of my favorite videos. Thanks, Nick!
This was one of your best shows ever! Maybe just for those of us that grew up as shade tree mechanics with no money, no shop, no manuals (and no UA-cam). Always plenty to learn, and makes good variety. Thanks for giving us all the gory details.
and this is why you don't put an engine together in a hurry. It causes mistakes. I would lay money UT won't ever do this again with this kind of time crunch.
OneFastDuster what would be the point it was like nick said tony work on the heads and took a day to do them wear as it would have took someone else days I don’t think it’s Tony’s falt this lunar guy is supposedly building Cheney motors spending money on them so supposedly he knows more than he is letting on I put the blame on him he knows how clean you got to be and to double check no one did none of that you know the old saying measure twice and cut once tony was hogging out heads it wasn’t his falt he know a lot about mopar
@@jeffleblanc8850 just to point out, their are a lot of us old timers (funny because i'm early GenX) who have been rebuilding mopars (along with everything else including transmissions) for about 45 years or more now. The whole idea of "rebuilding" a very used block in a day and it still being clean enough is silly. I would lay money that the oiling route though the block has dirt in it or a plug and is causing the problem. As the pump moves the oil the plug (which is most likely either a rust ball or a oil seal fix product) moves closer or farther from a junction or a oiling hole.
@@davidmiller9485 David Miller if your a old timer and built many engines and blah blah blah then you would of saw the engine making great oil pressure at the beginning when it was cold so please explain a piece of dirt stopping the oil pressure only when it's hot and excellent pressure when it's cold does this piece of dirt only block hot oil?? and not thick cold oil LMAO!!
As a 74 year old having built more than one 318 in a bunch of those late 60's Dodge bug eyed, engine between the seats vans, I found myself just marvelling at the worth of these two MoPar guy's collective knowledge garnered from years of wrenching on these engines long before dyno rooms were a gleam in the average engine builders eyes. Nick is a wonderful amalgam of old school having absorbed as much new school as anyone out there.
I've been a subscriber of NICK'S GARAGE for sometime, and this ,by far,was the best episode!!! Thank you very much for working with UNCLE TONY'S GARAGE, this collaboration has taken your show to an even higher level! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Much respect for you Nick. I love watching your videos because they show what kind of person you are. It's obvious that you're extremely knowledgeable about your craft, yet you always come across as being very humble.
Hey, George and Nick. Just finished watching this video. BEST... VIDEO...EVER!!! Everything was just perfect... the introduction, the flash back narrative/story telling style, the inserted video clips of Uncle Tony, the description, the explanation, the set up to what is expected, the subtle foreshadowing of not having hot tanked the engine... and then the issue. The warning light, the explanation, the visual to accompany it, the step by step sleuthing to identify the elusive problem until finally... successful identification and resolution. The camera angles, the editing, the background music... all contributed to the perfect atmosphere. I was literally on the edge of my seat the whole time! Thank you for making such an awesome video. You, good sirs, have outdone yourselves. You have set the bar extremely high for all future videos... it’s gonna be tough to top this one.
I've owned a few 318's in my life, I am a gear head, been wrenching a long time and I have never heard that much valve chatter out of a 318! The loose rockers should have been the red flag that something in the valve train was wrong. But it didn't surprise me that it stayed together. I beat the crap out of my first 318 in a dodge D100 truck and it never let me down!
Nick back in 1976 I bought a 1967 mustang with a 289 ci engine it had 10 lbs oil pressure cold and 0 lbs oil pressure hot. I run that engine for about 1 year with only one problem and that was one push rod would get squeaking. I would take it out once a month and dip it in stp and put it back in and run it. That engine never did have any other problems. I sold that car to a friend and we installed a 390 GT engine because he was afraid the 289 would blow. Lol.
Nick is a saint as well as a good builder. I have built motors on a budget and built them in a hurry, but mixing the two gives predictably BAD results. Cheap involves saving money by doing the work yourself (labor costs), not skipping steps. It made for good entertainment, and I watched a good bit of the live thrash, but I was cringing at the compromises dictated by the limited time available. I'm doing budget refresh jobs on a 340 and a 318 right now myself and I have gotten motivation from all the action on this build! RB
From 1969 thru '73 I had 4 yrs. of auto mechanics in high school. Loved it. We had a fantastic but STRICT shop instructor....and man, he was a stickler for building a clean engine. He'd make us build an engine completely, but prior to filling it with oil and water, he'd spin it upside down on the engine stand and have us pull the pan off. Then...he'd literally pun on a WHITE GLOVE, then run his fingers throughout the inside of the block. If he thought we hadn't cleaned it within an inch of it's life....and we did have a dip tank....he'd make us pull the motor apart completely and re-do it...and it HAD BETTER be clean again for his white glove treatment. He'd laugh at us while we'd wince while tearing the engines down again....and it'd piss us right off! But boy, we learned how to build engines correctly. His professionalism served me so well in so many of life's aspects throughout my life. God Bless him!
The best thing is the man Nick does not cut corners or sugar coat things. I love how he tells it how it is and only how it is, otherwise truth is king!
hello NICK i watch every monday for long time / i have a 440 in a 29 ford roadster ,the engine came out of 70 challenger rt , it got totaled so i got the engine for my street rod ,also have a hot 360 with all good parts KB pistons,floated pins, total seal rings , same cam as a 340 six pack weiland stelf intake carter 750 fully ballanced with ballencer and tq converter the heads are good copys of W2 had to move the intake boltholes over , had to braze the spot where pushrods go thru head SO I AM A DODGE GUY ! you look just like a man that i worked for free in his race car shp cecel hicks race cars ,i worked for free to learn from mr hicks he wasa pro stock drag car builder , he did altered cars in 1960s he did it all this was back in 1978-79 when i was in high school , i went to trade school collage for auto mech then also did the complete welding course too so i am a TIG welder by trade , worked at a speed shop too called ALL-Pro , i raced open mod 4 cycle go karts for many many years i am now age 58 just a gearhead like you are . also have 48 chev car with dual carbs i plan to send a confederate battle flag and a picture of my street rod with the 440 in it , it has a direct connection cam kit from herb mccandles place mr hicks knew him back in the day you look just like mr hicks you are super cool guy !!!! enjoy tonys channel to !!! he did not clean out oil gallys or put in new cam bearings so probably lost some pressure there i like tony he was working in a bind he is a shape guy you'all keep up good work PS i have a air cleaner off that challenger r/t that i need to sell if you know anyone who needs it david b nance 7802 cadillac dr se huntsville alabama 35802 stay safe ! DBN
Back in my high school days (late 60's) I had a 63 Polara with a polysphere 318 . In the local junk yard I found a 57 or 58 sport fury with a dual point distributor and dual WCFB 4 barrel carbs . I installed an UGLY (around 320 duration and 480 lift) Isky cam . This little screamer really cam alive around 4000 rpm and I stopped at 6000 rpm. 410 gears really helped. Those were the days. I wish I still had that car.
Without gentlemen like you sharing your knowledge and experience with all ages this would be a dying art and that would be shame. I've been subscribed for a little over 3 years and it's much appreciated. Thank you
Awesome job Nick. Good stuff. I am a former mechanic and now and electrical engineer with a mechanical background. I love fixing stuff and solving the problems. Figuring the puzzle out. Totally enjoyed this vid. Aloha.
Absolutely it’s a big change going from The 7M, 2JZ, 1UZ, and the LS to a classic Mopar. It was great working with them. I’m looking forward to getting back up to Nick’s and throwing it back on the Dino🤙
Really enjoyed this episode, since I have a 1971 Satellite Sebring Plus with a 318. I want to do a budget build and this showed me that some corners can’t be cut. So a bit of money spent up front with proper machining and research to make sure components match and work properly. It just goes to show you the immense intellectual property that goes into every well functioning machine on the road. I am glad I watched this and will be back for episode 2. In the meantime I am thinking of posting a video of my Plymouth and maybe get some feedback on my progress.
My first car was a 1971 satellite Sebring plus. Yellow with black at the bottom. Black in the middle hood insert. Everyone thought it was a roadrunner. It had a 318 also. I went to the junkyard and replaced all the emblems with roadrunner emblems, including the interior ones. I even replaced the horn with the purple painted beep beep horn. That car holds a special place in my heart. My Dad helped me get it in 1975.
I have cleaned engines on my garage apron using ZEP purple clean & a lot of long brushes made for the purpose. Remove the plugs at the rear of the blocks & drive the freeze plugs out of the front w/ a long piece of 5/16" dis bar stock. Run a brush powered by a drill thru the passages & keep spraying the cleaner while running the brush. Flush w/ lots of water. Use smaller brushes for the passages leading from the mains to the cam bearings. The most critical is the passages from the oil filter area under the oil filter adapter. Remove the threaded pipe plug & run cleaning brushes thru the passages & flush. The run brushes thru the passage leading from the threaded hole where the oil sender unit fits in the block, this connects to the passage going to the oil filter. Last clean the passage going up from the rear main. Most important, make sure the small plug is in the passage leading down from the oil sender threaded hole (1/8" npt). If this is not in there (some machine shops will knock it out for cleaning) oil will bypass the oil filter. These last mentioned passages is most likely where the grunge was hiding since they are hard to access.
I always gooped a little Permatex number 2 on the freeze plugs when I install them but I never really thought that it made a difference. Now I know that it did.
So sad a full test of a tuned 318 couldn't be completed. Here in Argentina the 318 was THE muscle car engine, it was the only Dodge V8 that came to this side of the world, and the biggest engine that was made in the country. It was mounted on a beautiful coupe that had a unique body, a midway between a Charger and a Coronet, that is still a legend.
I followed this build from the beginning, watched the mad thrash at Tony`s. Big fan of Nick and Tony...2 mopar masters, Brian is just getting started and learning alot. Sucks that the virus shut down shops so no hot tank for that block. Also Feel sorry for Brian, all that work and travel for the oil pump to go bad, but really enjoyed the collaboration from 3 You Tube channels. Stay safe, God Bless all.
I’ll get it sorted out and be back up there before you know it. Right now I want to focus on making it so I have something to put the engine in. Also my family’s business will be opening back up soon assuming the rioters don’t change that
You are awesome! best mechanic/engine builder videos on UA-cam. Just finishing my first build, 1976 2wd F250 460. When I’m not working on my own project I’m always watching yours. Thank you.
I put bearings in a inline ford engine still in the van .had good oil pressure till it got hot. Tore it down and found some of the journals were odd sized. Never assume a part is standard size plastic gauge is not acceptable.i bet it is a part miss match
Nick your a true gentleman. Not many guys out there are will to help and teach others people. I had the 318 in my 73 charger SE . And did a cam on my own. I put all together and all it did was to back fire . Met a mechanic who worked on Mopar s and he cam to my house help me with and explain to me what I did wrong . Some how I was 180 degrees out . Lol thanks for the great video.
Coming from Europe, I thought any US engine was crap until I own my Dodge. My first V8, a 318 (tbi). Reliable, cheap and easy to maintain by myself. Thanks for the share.
That's the way you learn . Short cuts and quick builds work sometimes , but not all the time . Hey but you can learn a lot from mistakes . Nick you the man !
Nick I'm 42 years old and I've worked on everything from combines to tricycles. I grew up on a farm and went to college for diesel. Crazy enough I'm now a small engine mechanic but it doesn't matter what your doing as long as your doing it. I still try to learn something new everyday and most days I do. I like the way you trouble shoot and teach as go. Thank you for your videos and god bless your crew and family!
I definitely wouldn’t say that engine sucks. Like Nick said when I talked to him on the phone fact that it was running low on oil 46° advance timing and it didn’t eat itself that’s a strong engine right there. Normally I bring my blocks and heads over to dan bedell’s place but our emperor of New York decided to shut everything down. Tony supplied the block and John did his absolute best to get that thing clean.
I enjoyed this episode. I think engines like the 318 are more common to everyday people. That is people getting a budget together to build an engine, transmission and car.
Nick, I put a monster 440 together in my garage a few years ago that ran perfectly, and I never put it on the dyno......but always wanted to. I'm in the process of restoring a 67 Coronet 500 Convertible 4bbl car now that sat up since '79. The 383 in that one needed a rebuild.....no steps missed. I get lots of ideas from this site, and think that you are living history sir. Good health to you, and all my friends in Canada.
Growing up with pop being an automotive Machinist I learned the right way through the shop procedures like the vat the solvent tank and what not and having friends and neighbors who did it the old way or I should say the low $ way I myself have seen this exact same scenario but working with my buddies growing up in the neighborhood here we found some ways that work like steel brushing the oil galleys all the oil galleys and bolt holes heading up to the carwash with a few buckssandblasting the heck out of everything with the pressure washer then blasting it all dry with the air nosel. But myself personally I always seen the vat as an essential process of any engine build budget or not love the videos Nick keep doing your thing sir and hello here from PHX AZ
Nick's Garage is the best, made a visit to his shop in Laval a few years ago with my wife and kids, we watched a 440 on the dyno, very cool! Nick and his staff are some of the nicest most gracious people we have ever met! Good times!!
Its really nice to see "the other side" of engine building once in a while. Don't get me wrong... now that I'm officially an old retired guy and can afford it, I'd want any engine built in a shop as neat and clean as Nick's engine assembly area. Of course that's the best way... But sheez Louise, to read some of the comments you'd think an American low-buck V8 is such a delicate flower that it can ONLY be built that way or "you're wasting your time." which is the antithesis of the shade-tree mechanic ethic I learned growing up! Those things will live just fine as long as you don't ACTUALLY coat the insides with kitty litter and sand while you're working! Well, maybe that's why so many Millenials and Gen-Z-ers ride the bus instead of drive... "I can't afford to build an engine the way they make it look on all those 'we're gonna lose the shop!!' TV shows, so I just can't have a car." My first car, back around 78, came with a seized Ford 302. A friend and I tore it down and rebuilt it under a tree and in the dirt in the back yard of my parents' farm. It got rained on, it got dust and tree-pollen blown into it. We were high school kids that couldn't afford to hot-tank or machine anything, didn't have air tools or a parts-washer, and had to borrow a torque wrench to install the heads! We cleaned what we could with kerosene, did a scratch-hone re-ring, and put it back together, changing the oil and filter every hour of run time for the first couple of hours. It never gave me a problem, and I learned that it lived on for the next guy for almost 10 years. 15 years later, my third engine project was a '66 Dodge 383 with chronic low oil pressure, which additionally burned a valve on unleaded gas. We had a daughter on the way and again I had to go cheap or buy some soulless used hondyota to commute to work (and that sure wasn't gonna happen!) So I jacked it up, dropped the pan, rolled-in new bearings, did pay to have hardened seats and valves done on the heads, hung a new oil pump, and washed as much of the hard, gritty sludge out of the block as I could... and prayed a lot. First fire-up... well, it went about like that 318... ran fine, but I watched the oil pressure sink, and sink, and sink. Pulled the filter and it was packed with that gritty sludge that came out of every nook, cranny, and oil galley I couldn't get to with a brush and kerosene. So I Replaced the filter a few times and did a few short interval oil changes and ultimately put another 100,000 miles on that engine. Would it have made more power and burned less oil had I had the block tanked, machined, new pistons, file-fit rings, rods sized, balanced... well yeah. Of course it would have! But it did its job, and that same car NOW has a 440 that HAS been built "the right way," in part because I went cheap back then and got another 10 years out of the filthy, tired old 383. No, it wasn't a "waste of time" by any definition. At least not to me! And kudos for Tony and Brian for taking the low-buck plunge, and to Nick for working with an engine like that as hard as he did! Heck, I'm very impressed at the rough numbers with wrong timing and no tuning... those 318s were never rated at more than 230 HP (gross) in stock form. Thumbs up all around!!
I know what your saying. Back when I was a young father earning very little I did a in-chassis rebuild of a 65 318 in my parents side yard. We worked with what we had. Mow the grass real short so that dropped nut can be found. 5 years later it was sent to the crusher as it was too rusted to fix. It still ran great.
I'm sixteen and just spent the last week throwing together a 318 with $800. But you better bet, every INCH of that engine was sprayed and wiped down with brake cleaner.
Just seemed to be too many cooks in that kitchen...Everyone experienced but doing different things. Things get missed that way...I always started and finished a build. If mistakes were made they were mine.
This was good for me to watch. 1 - I learned some tidbits that will be helpful as I'm mid stream of my top end rebuild on a 302 (my very first!), but also 2 - the reminder that even some of the best out there can throw some stuff together and still have issues to troubleshoot. So I shouldn't be scared to fail myself. Really cool! So thanks for sharing! I have plenty to learn!
@@RD-0525 This!! With all UTs know how this never shoulda happened. Comedy of errors but not funny for the guy paying for all this & doing it over again. Toomuch wrong with that engine. Ive done dirt driveway messican rebuilds and not encountered a problem.
My first car in high school was a 1973 Plymouth Duster with a 318 engine. That engine sound brings back memories. That engine was very stout and reliable as it never broke down on me when I had it for 10 years. It wasn't the most powerful engine, but it had the right balance of power and torque to make it fun enough to drive. Also it was very reliable, reliability was the most important issue during school as it didn't cost me much at all to upkeep and drive during high school and few years into college. Much respect to the 318 engine.
I’ve watched Uncle Tony find him entertaining and have picked up some tips but he’s a hack , there are certain aspects you don’t cheap out on when building an engine . Don’t have the budget , eat more Kraft dinner and save up till you can get it done right . Big respect for Nick .
I agree. Even before Nick downsized the carb I knew 750cfm was too large for a 318. If you watch Tony's video he says the 750 is a perfect fit. Also, the freeze plugs were not properly sealed, all six were leaking. I trust Nick's judgment over Tony's in mechanicals. That being said, Tony has great passion for rebuilding mopar street machines and knows a lot about the history of these old classics.
@@NicksGarage hI Nick... been a fan of your channel for a couple of years now.. being from ont by way of Nfld, i appreciate that there are places such as your shop that are killing ity with passing on info and tech tips...wish there was some sorta data base listing locates of shops where we could just look them up and call for help, send then our projects ... you all do awesome work and the guys you have at your shop are first rate... keep the pedal to the metal and smile all the way..cheers
Love the collabs Nick... thanks for doing them. Buying merch now! Looking forward to the next test of this engine. Big lesson... don't skip the hot-tank, even if you're skipping the machine shop.
What a great episode! Very valuable lesson on the importance of a good cleaning. At Saturn per the shop manual after engine honing the block needed to be cleaned with Tide laundry detergent and high pressure hot water to flush away the debri from honing.
Excellent way to start the week with a collaborated project of the great minds of Mopar. Can’t wait to see next test and maybe get a sponsor to get things going to bigger plans. You guys can get this done. Thanks for the great video.
It was awesome meeting both of these legends. I build Engines like the 7M, 2JZ, 1UZ, and LS so this was a great way to dive into MOPAR for the first time.
That's what I love about nick the willingness to share his knowledge with all of us. you don't get this kind of people very often, thanks nick. like I said before I will work for you and in return I get a slice of pizza and the knowledge.
I have worked for Dodge for 43 years Engine man i built many engs never had this problem you could eat out of my motors never never put one up without hot tank
Nick is a real stand up guy. He donated a lot of shop time and has offered to do another test once everything has been corrected. I watch most of the marathon build and no one should feel bad about the outcome. Stuff happens. If you haven't experienced a problem on a rebuild then you haven't been doing it long enough. On a personal note this why I like to having a engine run test stand. I don't like bending over a fender to sort issues out.
As a long-time owner of a '88 5.0, I love seeing Tonys involvement. Many might not know, Tony was one of the original pioneers of the Fox Mustang 5.0 movement. He took his brand new factory stock 87 LX to high 13's and the rest was history. Him, Bob Cosby, Neil Van Opre, Ed Hohenburg. Original Fox Mustang gang.
Tony's channel is another of my top 10 favorites on youtube. He's a 225, slant 6, master! I love how he runs through the physics and engineering of that motor. Just like Nick's channel, much to learn. Thanks for this vid!
When l was young l have had 3 318 builds....All 3 had low oil pressure problems.....318 are notorious for that.....ln my case, it was the cam bearing....But even with that fixed in 2 of them it was still low oil pressure.....But like l said it was in my case.....Thanks Nick and the guy's....Fun stuff to watch.....!
First truck had a 318 in it burned and leaked oil like crazy but always ran. I love these little mopar small blocks and hope to see more of them in the future:)
Many people discount the 318 as Mopar's "little" motor but in reality with a stock bore it's only 9 inches smaller than a Chevy 327 and with an .030 over bore it's only 4 inches smaller. Good heads, intake, cam and headers and it will really respond. I can't wait to see this engine when everything is worked out.
318 can make good engines, but the bore is the big downfall. At 3.91 it’s harder to get high compression without running into ptv clearance. And big valve heads will run into valve shrouding. Great engines, but most people start with a 360 because they almost as cheap and a better platform.
A cautionary tail for all DIYers. Keeping things clean in spite of not haven’t industrial cleaning available. Also to double checking assemblies. Thanks to all of you!
Ive cleaned engine parts with carb clean and brushes .then washed in purple power and car washed them. Then washed with my pressure washer. Reinspect and reclean with more carb clean and compressed air. Parts can be clean it just takes some effort
Wow you’re such a good man Tony. Thank you for sharing and for all your hard work you are the man. I love watching you show the young bucks up. Two thumbs up 👍
Giasou Nikola, As per usual your knowledge, patience, workmanship, enthusiasm, & willing to teach & pass on your knowledge is commendable. We are not going to live forever & someone needs to carry the torch, Brian is that next generation & we need to nurture them & teach them everything. Mistake or no mistake everything is a learning curve. Well done Nikola, proud of you mate.👍 Your number 1 Fan in Australia Louis Kats from Melbourne Australia ☺ 👍 ❤
When rebuilding an engine you have to replace the bronze bushing that the camshaft drive shaft gear which turns the oil pump spins on, its in the block... I think it is called the oil pump drive gear bushing. Otherwise the oil pressure will be low. I tried to attach a link to a picture but youtube won't allow links. Also running the engine without cleaning all the oil passages was not a good idea. Just imagine the crud that would have been blocking oil from getting through to vital components... That is most likely why there were metal shavings in the oil pan.
Well Nick. As always i love to watch your Videos. In this case the Guy or Guy's who put this 318 together had prettymuch ignored every thing there is in engine building. First he didn't clean the block completely. Then they put the wrong lifters in it. Not to mention not wanting to put sealant around the freeze plugs. Ignorance is one thing but this is absolute total incompetence. I wouldn't trust them with my lawn mower let alone an Automotive engine. I've been rebuilding engines for over 55 years. I've seen alot of stupidity over the years like this.
Had a 74 charger with a 318 , she wasn't the fastest thing around but that 318 ran and ran arizona heat 140,000 miles on it and more abuse being driven like she was a big block , can't beat them, like the slant 6 , takes a licking and keeps on ticking... great show nick.
Glad to see they figured why the oil pressure was dropping. I had a 1971 318 out of an old truck that the crank shaft had a good 1/4 inch of end play if you hit the throttle quickly. It never popped a drive belt, it idled so smoothly that sometimes I would hit the starter ,thinking it was off, when it was at idle. It also carried 40 lbs of oil pressure on a mechanical gauge at idle. I had to prove those facts to several people. I later sold the truck and that guy ran it for years. It finally rusted until it was no longer safe to be on the road.
Nick and crew...excellent video, as always!
Just to clarify what we found post dyno inspection...the lifters that were supplied are the AMC style. They're different than standard OE Chrysler lifters in that they are designed to oil through the pushrods, AND their cup height is approximately .025 deeper than stock. With the original style steel shim head gaskets they are close enough to work, but with a composite gasket as was used here, they come up too short to work with stock length pushrods. Essentially each lifter represented an internal oil leak which would get worse as the engine warmed up. A High Volume oil pump would have overcome most of that, but there would still be a lack of lifter preload. That was the reason for the pressure drop.
We also had a mis communication when discussing the ignition timing. Nick set it for 32 degrees at 2000 RPM, which would have been perfect IF we had curved the distributor. He didn't know this, and so total timing was somewhere in the range of 46 degrees at 3500. THANKFULLY, Nick pulled the plug at 5000 RPM or things could have gotten real ugly!
Brian is in the process of gathering the right parts, and I can't wait to see what this thing does once these bugs are worked out. My prediction is 350 horse @ 6200..let's see how that goes.
All in all, I can honestly say this was the most fun I've had since I started doing UA-cam a couple of years ago. It was a filthy, exhausting fiasco...in other words, an ultimate gearhead experience!
Looking forward to whatever we can come up with next. You guys are awesome!
Tony. Thank you Tony.
bryan of lunaroutlaws garage is the luckiest newest mopar owner on the planet , he got to work with 2 mopar wrenching legends , nick panaritis and uncle tony
There's NO EXCUSE for building a dirty engine. Poor, really poor work. If Kiwi let's Tony build that semi, he will lose a lot of points in my eyes
Not much Experience with Chrysler Engines, but I know of several cases where guys stuck Chevy Lifters in Buick engines and had Oil Pressure Problems, especially on the V6.
@@jeffparris8387 I don't think you realize WHY a dirty engine was built.
It was done this way (dirty, fast, and rushed) as a fun little 'marathon' project just to see what would happen in the numbers.
Kinda like back in the days when you'd slam together whatever you could with whatever you had at hand, and a virtually zero dollar budget. No other reason than that, as I'm sure you know that this is not par the course per Tony, Nick, or any of those guys. :)
I've built so many 318s throughout the years, from the old polyheads to the magnums. It never ceases to amaze me how willing to run and how amazingly durable these engines are. That low amount of oil pressure really didn't worry me. Those engines were designed as the general V8 workhorse throughout Chryslers entire line from the very get go. They are designed with loose tolerances for that intended purpose. I've seen many go on for miles with low oil pressure and keep on going strong! I've seen some continue to run with a hole in the side of the block being reduced to a V7 and still run as if nothing was wrong. Truly amazing little V8s and among one of my favorite engines.
I thought that the lifters clacked a bit. In my experience they should not make much noise. But I have more experience with the old 383 though. On my old -69 T&C I got low pressure warning while on a long roadtrip. Managed to use a gauge to test it, and it was fine. I suspected the electric sensor was failing as the engine was dead quiet on both idle and rev. Had to disconnect the sensor wiring as the glowing warning lamp really stressed me out :)
Rebuilt one that had thrown #2 rod. It was still on the crank but broke loose from the rod pin. Was in a big "S".Girl kept driving for 4 months. We asked if at any time the engine made noise. Said yes going around Lake Cresent but quit after a while.
Just had a slight miss and oil on plug.
Had a rod bearing go bad in my 318. Ran it for months that way. Never over revved it.
Rebuilt it with 360 heads, purple grind 340 and windage tray. It made that cuda' move!
I ran a 318 in my mud truck little did I know that the 360 fly wheel I had on the engine was balanced. It lasted some good 5000 rpm runs at the mud bogs for a few years before it blew up
I had Dodge Vans in my plumbing business for some 30 years all had 318's in them and never blew one up, put some miles on the ole girls! Good Motors they finally wouldn't pass Smog in the California State and had to retire them, I sold them to Mexica's and they went to Mexico. They might be running to this day. LOL
I agree except this one wasn't sitting between two fenders with tranny attached and bolted to the mounts. May as well get it halfway decent while it's on the bench.
One of the reasons Nick has such a great amount of followers is He's a genuinely great guy, all that time & effort to help out with this engine build & well worth watching.
Thanks Nick for playing along, we loved the whole process, UTG is old school fun.
Thank you for watching!
For more oil pressure drain & refill crankcase after warm up.
Save the old oil & let it cool off.
Love to see you guys all respecting each others abilities AND short comings. Not a bad word said about the builder, the owner, NOTHING. Great people, great channels. Nick, my hat's off to you... you gave it 100% in troubleshooting. Brian, keep up the good work and keep learning, and Tony... don't let this bring you down... slam it back together and get it back on the dyno!
success is measured by how we deal with our setbacks. Thanks man always forward🤙
Finally someone does something with a 318,its a great little motor, tough as hell.
318, I was absolutely merciless on one when I was 14 and bought my first mopar. The engine survived through three transmissions, here’s to many happy miles for you and your engine. Thank you to all the channels, you just don’t see this kind of grace being passed around, if not for this community of gear heads. Thank you for taking myself back and putting aside the stress and grief my family and I have been through. Thank you Nick, Vasily and Tony. You guys are real life heros.
Michael Fitzgerald my second car was a 73 Satellite with a 318. Started driving it in 1980 with 140,000 miles on it and it was my daily driver until well after graduate school in the 90s... and the it was a backup car for another 20 years. I donated it, still running and driving, in 2013 with >436,000 miles. For my money, the 318 is even more brutally reliable than a slant-6.
i can agree I put 300,000 miles on my 1972 dart blew 3 904 transmissions and 3 or 4 plastic timing gears
Went threw my first 318 got one out a ram charger 83. Into my ..85 dodge d150...sad they dont make cast iron anymore
Long ago we had lots of mopar engines kicking around. 318 360 340 + 383 440s... Parts engines that we would Rob if we had a failure. And of course there were failures but nothing major. Usually the valve train components got scavenged most. The factory stamped steel rocker shaft and Rockers were actually pretty great for the most part. But once we started throwing much more aggressive cams, headers valve springs excetera... You start finding the weak spots of factory components. I have literally shoved pushrods right through the factory rockers, and also bent pushrods, Twisted off oil pump drives, the list just is extensive but no Rod piston or crank failures. Always use a high volume pump of good quality. I think that's what saved a lot of my aggressive beating on these engines. And I was definitely hard on them LOL. Great memories and a great video from you guys also. A lot of us guys grew up in the 70s as shade-tree mechanics basically, but we could get our hands on .. new cams Etc but they were old in the Box. And we use them, and they actually worked great. The street seeing is a whole different thing then serious competition. When you don't have a lot of money it really is more about fun and keeping the thing together. We roasted a lot of 727 Transmissions, changed pumps in the Transmissions, put shift kits in them, worked on everything ourselves. Let me tell you, dirty engines really can run great LOL. And they were fairly cheap. I always used Michigan 77 bearings, fully grooved rod and main bearings and a high-quality high volume oil pump. Putting enough oil volume through an engine non obstructed is the key to longevity. No idea how many sets of tires we went through back in the day. used to really piss the neighbors off LOL. However we drag raced about four miles from where I live and it was a nice open one-way traffic situation. We never lost anybody and we never had any wrecks. People took the street racing serious and played it safe as could be. Those that were killed in automobiles had actually died in genuine accidents not related to racing. This Memorial Day I went to some of their graves. It's tough to look down and remember their youthful faces just as our own more than 40 years ago they have laid there asleep in the grave. Be safe out there people. the track is the place to race not the street. if you have to drive your car fast and most people will :-) do it some place out in the country at least where you have a good view and you are not endangering anyone else. Deer moose and Bear do not make good hood ornaments, and trees won't move out of the way either. think on those things long before you get behind the wheel and never touch the alcohol with those steering wheels in your hand.
Thank you Nick for being a part of the collaboration and a thumbs up to George for his video and editing. The whole build has been entertaining and informative. May you stay healthy a nd safe.
thanks!
"Been Awesome so far"!!
>Cheers!
All we need is for vice grip garage to drive it 2000 miles after putting it in a station wagon! great video you guys!
Thanks Nick, Uncle Tony, and all the true friends helping a good young guy along. Brian is the kind of guy that lifts others with his positive attitude. Good on all of you! Now, I can't wait to see the 318 in it's glory...
I love how you check everything and have the answers to send them in the right direction. One thing for sure it does no good to rush building anything. That engine should have atleast been cleaned. All that metal had to hurt the motor. Hopefully they will pull it apart and get it all right. I'm looking forward to the next trip to the dyno.
Great video Nick, thanks Sid
I love nicks attention to details !!!!!!!!! I believe he really cares about the little guy. The customer as it were .
Like added metal shavings and no oil pressure, you muppets are brainwashed LOL
This troubleshooting process is much more interesting and informative than when everything works right the first time. It's learning the logical, step by step thought process involved in solving a problem that could have multiple causes. Thanks for showing the whole thing.
My brother and I have rebuilt many engines under the carport. We went thru a lot of easy off oven cleaner and a whole lot of quarters at the car wash. We put high pressure water in every passage and journal and bolt hole. Don't think we ever put one back together with that much crud on the inside. But man, talking about this sure brings the memories back.
Had to rebuild an engine in a weekend for my daily driver once. Not much money to do it on. Bought a ring kit from PAW. I took a 55 gal drum put the block in it filled it with Castro super clean. And boiled the block for a whole day. A engine rebuild has to start with a clean block.
Hey Joe, how do you prevent rust when washing the block at the car wash. I used to be stationed on the coast-rust occurred so fast there it is hard to believe that you would not create problems doing this. Obviously a wipe down, hot air blow down and maybe something like WD-40 but still, very hard to believe-Respectfully request your input. @ Joe Bishop, Or anyone with experience.
@@johnanderson660 We were in North East Mississippi, so we didn't have to deal with salt air. But, we would basically just wipe it out really good and wipe the insides down with regular motor oil. Then we would tape up anything that didn't get paint and would paint the block with a high heat spray paint. Even on the coast, if you blow it out with air right away and give it a good coat of oil, you should be ok. Honing the cylenders and where the bearings go normally takes care of anything that might build up between cleaning and assembly.
@@johnanderson660 we use to dry the blocks with compressed air.
That and steel brushes . back to the car wash and more inspection and pressure washing. No excuses for dirty parts man.lazy. if you have time to smoke then I dont want your help. Why would you disease yourself.
Another great video, guys! It’s always exciting to watch a 426 Hemi make 500 bhp the first time it’s started, but this little 318 is a lot closer to how almost all of us start. Working with friends to solve the riddles and mysteries of a budget build is what gets us hooked in this hobby, and what gives us knowledge to go forward with. This has been one of my favorite videos. Thanks, Nick!
This was one of your best shows ever! Maybe just for those of us that grew up as shade tree mechanics with no money, no shop, no manuals (and no UA-cam). Always plenty to learn, and makes good variety. Thanks for giving us all the gory details.
Nick, you are a humble man. You could have really embarrassed someone here but you took the high road. Hats off to you!
and this is why you don't put an engine together in a hurry. It causes mistakes. I would lay money UT won't ever do this again with this kind of time crunch.
OneFastDuster what would be the point it was like nick said tony work on the heads and took a day to do them wear as it would have took someone else days I don’t think it’s Tony’s falt this lunar guy is supposedly building Cheney motors spending money on them so supposedly he knows more than he is letting on I put the blame on him he knows how clean you got to be and to double check no one did none of that you know the old saying measure twice and cut once tony was hogging out heads it wasn’t his falt he know a lot about mopar
@@jeffleblanc8850 just to point out, their are a lot of us old timers (funny because i'm early GenX) who have been rebuilding mopars (along with everything else including transmissions) for about 45 years or more now. The whole idea of "rebuilding" a very used block in a day and it still being clean enough is silly. I would lay money that the oiling route though the block has dirt in it or a plug and is causing the problem. As the pump moves the oil the plug (which is most likely either a rust ball or a oil seal fix product) moves closer or farther from a junction or a oiling hole.
@@davidmiller9485 David Miller if your a old timer and built many engines and blah blah blah then you would of saw the engine making great oil pressure at the beginning when it was cold so please explain a piece of dirt stopping the oil pressure only when it's hot and excellent pressure when it's cold does this piece of dirt only block hot oil?? and not thick cold oil LMAO!!
@@79tazman When did it ever get good oil pressure? They talked about bad oil pressure right from the start before they even tried the dyno test.
As a 74 year old having built more than one 318 in a bunch of those late 60's Dodge bug eyed, engine between the seats vans, I found myself just marvelling at the worth of these two MoPar guy's collective knowledge garnered from years of wrenching on these engines long before dyno rooms were a gleam in the average engine builders eyes. Nick is a wonderful amalgam of old school having absorbed as much new school as anyone out there.
I've been a subscriber of NICK'S GARAGE for sometime, and this ,by far,was the best episode!!! Thank you very much for working with UNCLE TONY'S GARAGE, this collaboration has taken your show to an even higher level! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you for tuning in Andre!
I’m from Maine and I have some family from new Brunswick and Moncton Canada, and I just cannot get over how legitimately Canadian Nick sounds
Nick is so humble, not arrogant at all!👍👍
Thank you my friend!
Gotta love the tough 318. Earned its reputation here, 34 psi at 5000 rpm!
Much respect for you Nick. I love watching your videos because they show what kind of person you are. It's obvious that you're extremely knowledgeable about your craft, yet you always come across as being very humble.
Nick is the best. Glad some old school guys are still here with us, passing on knowledge. Nick is 100% classy gentleman as well.
Love the 318, even when it's broke, it still runs.
it's not a chevy or ford of course it runs
@Brennan Clark key word is "near" and improved
@Brennan Clark explain
@Brennan Clark the 318 is nowhere near the 283. and the 350 hadnt even entered production for another almost 10 years after the 318
My 1995, 318 magnum runs like brand new.
Hey, George and Nick. Just finished watching this video. BEST... VIDEO...EVER!!! Everything was just perfect... the introduction, the flash back narrative/story telling style, the inserted video clips of Uncle Tony, the description, the explanation, the set up to what is expected, the subtle foreshadowing of not having hot tanked the engine... and then the issue. The warning light, the explanation, the visual to accompany it, the step by step sleuthing to identify the elusive problem until finally... successful identification and resolution. The camera angles, the editing, the background music... all contributed to the perfect atmosphere. I was literally on the edge of my seat the whole time! Thank you for making such an awesome video. You, good sirs, have outdone yourselves. You have set the bar extremely high for all future videos... it’s gonna be tough to top this one.
I've owned a few 318's in my life, I am a gear head, been wrenching a long time and I have never heard that much valve chatter out of a 318! The loose rockers should have been the red flag that something in the valve train was wrong. But it didn't surprise me that it stayed together. I beat the crap out of my first 318 in a dodge D100 truck and it never let me down!
The best small block of the era
I have a ram charger 318. 1985 in my d150 strong engine 👍👍 sad they dont make cast iron anymore
Nick back in 1976 I bought a 1967 mustang with a 289 ci engine it had 10 lbs oil pressure cold and 0 lbs oil pressure hot. I run that engine for about 1 year with only one problem and that was one push rod would get squeaking. I would take it out once a month and dip it in stp and put it back in and run it. That engine never did have any other problems. I sold that car to a friend and we installed a 390 GT engine because he was afraid the 289 would blow. Lol.
Nick is a saint as well as a good builder. I have built motors on a budget and built them in a hurry, but mixing the two gives predictably BAD results. Cheap involves saving money by doing the work yourself (labor costs), not skipping steps. It made for good entertainment, and I watched a good bit of the live thrash, but I was cringing at the compromises dictated by the limited time available. I'm doing budget refresh jobs on a 340 and a 318 right now myself and I have gotten motivation from all the action on this build! RB
From 1969 thru '73 I had 4 yrs. of auto mechanics in high school. Loved it. We had a fantastic but STRICT shop instructor....and man, he was a stickler for building a clean engine. He'd make us build an engine completely, but prior to filling it with oil and water, he'd spin it upside down on the engine stand and have us pull the pan off. Then...he'd literally pun on a WHITE GLOVE, then run his fingers throughout the inside of the block. If he thought we hadn't cleaned it within an inch of it's life....and we did have a dip tank....he'd make us pull the motor apart completely and re-do it...and it HAD BETTER be clean again for his white glove treatment. He'd laugh at us while we'd wince while tearing the engines down again....and it'd piss us right off! But boy, we learned how to build engines correctly. His professionalism served me so well in so many of life's aspects throughout my life. God Bless him!
Keep taking the high road Nick! You're a good honest man. Someone that young kids could look up to as a role model. 👍
The best thing is the man Nick does not cut corners or sugar coat things. I love how he tells it how it is and only how it is, otherwise truth is king!
Nick... your the nicest person on UA-cam..Bless you for not throwing Brian under the Bus.😀
hello NICK i watch every monday for long time / i have a 440 in a 29 ford roadster ,the engine came out of 70 challenger rt , it got totaled so i got the engine for my street rod ,also have a hot 360 with all good parts KB pistons,floated pins, total seal rings , same cam as a 340 six pack weiland stelf intake carter 750 fully ballanced with ballencer and tq converter the heads are good copys of W2 had to move the intake boltholes over , had to braze the spot where pushrods go thru head SO I AM A DODGE GUY ! you look just like a man that i worked for free in his race car shp cecel hicks race cars ,i worked for free to learn from mr hicks he wasa pro stock drag car builder , he did altered cars in 1960s he did it all this was back in 1978-79 when i was in high school , i went to trade school collage for auto mech then also did the complete welding course too so i am a TIG welder by trade , worked at a speed shop too called ALL-Pro , i raced open mod 4 cycle go karts for many many years i am now age 58 just a gearhead like you are . also have 48 chev car with dual carbs i plan to send a confederate battle flag and a picture of my street rod with the 440 in it , it has a direct connection cam kit from herb mccandles place mr hicks knew him back in the day you look just like mr hicks you are super cool guy !!!! enjoy tonys channel to !!! he did not clean out oil gallys or put in new cam bearings so probably lost some pressure there i like tony he was working in a bind he is a shape guy you'all keep up good work PS i have a air cleaner off that challenger r/t that i need to sell if you know anyone who needs it david b nance 7802 cadillac dr se huntsville alabama 35802 stay safe ! DBN
Back in my high school days (late 60's) I had a 63 Polara with a polysphere 318 . In the local junk yard I found a 57 or 58 sport fury with a dual point distributor and dual WCFB 4 barrel carbs . I installed an UGLY (around 320 duration and 480 lift) Isky cam . This little screamer really cam alive around 4000 rpm and I stopped at 6000 rpm. 410 gears really helped. Those were the days. I wish I still had that car.
Without gentlemen like you sharing your knowledge and experience with all ages this would be a dying art and that would be shame. I've been subscribed for a little over 3 years and it's much appreciated. Thank you
I love watching Nick diagnosing engine problems. I think the budget 318 is going to make some good numbers second time around! Great video!
Awesome job Nick. Good stuff. I am a former mechanic and now and electrical engineer with a mechanical background. I love fixing stuff and solving the problems. Figuring the puzzle out. Totally enjoyed this vid. Aloha.
Best way to learn this stuff is the hard way. And from a specialist or two. Good job Nick
Absolutely it’s a big change going from The 7M, 2JZ, 1UZ, and the LS to a classic Mopar. It was great working with them. I’m looking forward to getting back up to Nick’s and throwing it back on the Dino🤙
Nick is a total PRO. He is as Good as Anyone.....
Really enjoyed this episode, since I have a 1971 Satellite Sebring Plus with a 318. I want to do a budget build and this showed me that some corners can’t be cut. So a bit of money spent up front with proper machining and research to make sure components match and work properly. It just goes to show you the immense intellectual property that goes into every well functioning machine on the road. I am glad I watched this and will be back for episode 2. In the meantime I am thinking of posting a video of my Plymouth and maybe get some feedback on my progress.
You are right, putting in the time is always worth it in the end!
keep your head in the project and forget the filming
My first car was a 1971 satellite Sebring plus. Yellow with black at the bottom. Black in the middle hood insert. Everyone thought it was a roadrunner. It had a 318 also. I went to the junkyard and replaced all the emblems with roadrunner emblems, including the interior ones. I even replaced the horn with the purple painted beep beep horn. That car holds a special place in my heart. My Dad helped me get it in 1975.
I have cleaned engines on my garage apron using ZEP purple clean & a lot of long brushes made for the purpose. Remove the plugs at the rear of the blocks & drive the freeze plugs out of the front w/ a long piece of 5/16" dis bar stock. Run a brush powered by a drill thru the passages & keep spraying the cleaner while running the brush. Flush w/ lots of water. Use smaller brushes for the passages leading from the mains to the cam bearings. The most critical is the passages from the oil filter area under the oil filter adapter. Remove the threaded pipe plug & run cleaning brushes thru the passages & flush. The run brushes thru the passage leading from the threaded hole where the oil sender unit fits in the block, this connects to the passage going to the oil filter. Last clean the passage going up from the rear main. Most important, make sure the small plug is in the passage leading down from the oil sender threaded hole (1/8" npt). If this is not in there (some machine shops will knock it out for cleaning) oil will bypass the oil filter. These last mentioned passages is most likely where the grunge was hiding since they are hard to access.
I always gooped a little Permatex number 2 on the freeze plugs when I install them but I never really thought that it made a difference. Now I know that it did.
Same here Bill.I was a Tech for 40 + years.Always did the goop.Rarely had a problem with leaks.
So sad a full test of a tuned 318 couldn't be completed. Here in Argentina the 318 was THE muscle car engine, it was the only Dodge V8 that came to this side of the world, and the biggest engine that was made in the country. It was mounted on a beautiful coupe that had a unique body, a midway between a Charger and a Coronet, that is still a legend.
I followed this build from the beginning, watched the mad thrash at Tony`s. Big fan of Nick and Tony...2 mopar masters, Brian is just getting started and learning alot. Sucks that the virus shut down shops so no hot tank for that block. Also Feel sorry for Brian, all that work and travel for the oil pump to go bad, but really enjoyed the collaboration from 3 You Tube channels. Stay safe, God Bless all.
I’ll get it sorted out and be back up there before you know it. Right now I want to focus on making it so I have something to put the engine in. Also my family’s business will be opening back up soon assuming the rioters don’t change that
@@LunarOutlawsGarage Start to finish inc doing th eengine yet again how much did this cost you?
Had to be a mint! Anyone involved contribute?
You are awesome! best mechanic/engine builder videos on UA-cam. Just finishing my first build, 1976 2wd F250 460. When I’m not working on my own project I’m always watching yours. Thank you.
Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted.
I like that line
Absolutely
I put bearings in a inline ford engine still in the van .had good oil pressure till it got hot. Tore it down and found some of the journals were odd sized. Never assume a part is standard size plastic gauge is not acceptable.i bet it is a part miss match
Yep all experience is good if its not your money. But time is money so good bye all
Nick your a true gentleman. Not many guys out there are will to help and teach others people. I had the 318 in my 73 charger SE . And did a cam on my own. I put all together and all it did was to back fire . Met a mechanic who worked on Mopar s and he cam to my house help me with and explain to me what I did wrong . Some how I was 180 degrees out . Lol thanks for the great video.
Coming from Europe, I thought any US engine was crap until I own my Dodge.
My first V8, a 318 (tbi).
Reliable, cheap and easy to maintain by myself.
Thanks for the share.
That's the way you learn . Short cuts and quick builds work sometimes , but not all the time . Hey but you can learn a lot from mistakes . Nick you the man !
I really enjoyed this video enjoying how to diagnosis a problem. Nick, I appreciate you taking a risk with the 318 you didn't build.
Nick I'm 42 years old and I've worked on everything from combines to tricycles. I grew up on a farm and went to college for diesel. Crazy enough I'm now a small engine mechanic but it doesn't matter what your doing as long as your doing it. I still try to learn something new everyday and most days I do. I like the way you trouble shoot and teach as go. Thank you for your videos and god bless your crew and family!
God bless you and your family too!
i wasn't sure if the 318 was going to blow or not, but i knew it would suck. cleanliness is next to godliness.
I definitely wouldn’t say that engine sucks. Like Nick said when I talked to him on the phone fact that it was running low on oil 46° advance timing and it didn’t eat itself that’s a strong engine right there. Normally I bring my blocks and heads over to dan bedell’s place but our emperor of New York decided to shut everything down. Tony supplied the block and John did his absolute best to get that thing clean.
@@LunarOutlawsGarage Strong engine?🤔
jerrytee after pulling It apart I found a lot wrong with the rotating assembly.
Sweet! You and Uncle Tony collaborating! You’re both the best.
UT is the mad scientist of mopar and Nick is the professor.
I have been working on MoPars for decades. And this was a lesson for me as well. I really enjoy this show. I watch it often. Keep up the good work.
Thank you George for the kind words.
I enjoyed this episode. I think engines like the 318 are more common to everyday people. That is people getting a budget together to build an engine, transmission and car.
Nick, I put a monster 440 together in my garage a few years ago that ran perfectly, and I never put it on the dyno......but always wanted to. I'm in the process of restoring a 67 Coronet 500 Convertible 4bbl car now that sat up since '79. The 383 in that one needed a rebuild.....no steps missed. I get lots of ideas from this site, and think that you are living history sir. Good health to you, and all my friends in Canada.
Growing up with pop being an automotive Machinist I learned the right way through the shop procedures like the vat the solvent tank and what not and having friends and neighbors who did it the old way or I should say the low $ way I myself have seen this exact same scenario but working with my buddies growing up in the neighborhood here we found some ways that work like steel brushing the oil galleys all the oil galleys and bolt holes heading up to the carwash with a few buckssandblasting the heck out of everything with the pressure washer then blasting it all dry with the air nosel. But myself personally I always seen the vat as an essential process of any engine build budget or not love the videos Nick keep doing your thing sir and hello here from PHX AZ
Nick's Garage is the best, made a visit to his shop in Laval a few years ago with my wife and kids, we watched a 440 on the dyno, very cool! Nick and his staff are some of the nicest most gracious people we have ever met! Good times!!
Its really nice to see "the other side" of engine building once in a while. Don't get me wrong... now that I'm officially an old retired guy and can afford it, I'd want any engine built in a shop as neat and clean as Nick's engine assembly area. Of course that's the best way... But sheez Louise, to read some of the comments you'd think an American low-buck V8 is such a delicate flower that it can ONLY be built that way or "you're wasting your time." which is the antithesis of the shade-tree mechanic ethic I learned growing up! Those things will live just fine as long as you don't ACTUALLY coat the insides with kitty litter and sand while you're working! Well, maybe that's why so many Millenials and Gen-Z-ers ride the bus instead of drive... "I can't afford to build an engine the way they make it look on all those 'we're gonna lose the shop!!' TV shows, so I just can't have a car." My first car, back around 78, came with a seized Ford 302. A friend and I tore it down and rebuilt it under a tree and in the dirt in the back yard of my parents' farm. It got rained on, it got dust and tree-pollen blown into it. We were high school kids that couldn't afford to hot-tank or machine anything, didn't have air tools or a parts-washer, and had to borrow a torque wrench to install the heads! We cleaned what we could with kerosene, did a scratch-hone re-ring, and put it back together, changing the oil and filter every hour of run time for the first couple of hours. It never gave me a problem, and I learned that it lived on for the next guy for almost 10 years. 15 years later, my third engine project was a '66 Dodge 383 with chronic low oil pressure, which additionally burned a valve on unleaded gas. We had a daughter on the way and again I had to go cheap or buy some soulless used hondyota to commute to work (and that sure wasn't gonna happen!) So I jacked it up, dropped the pan, rolled-in new bearings, did pay to have hardened seats and valves done on the heads, hung a new oil pump, and washed as much of the hard, gritty sludge out of the block as I could... and prayed a lot. First fire-up... well, it went about like that 318... ran fine, but I watched the oil pressure sink, and sink, and sink. Pulled the filter and it was packed with that gritty sludge that came out of every nook, cranny, and oil galley I couldn't get to with a brush and kerosene. So I Replaced the filter a few times and did a few short interval oil changes and ultimately put another 100,000 miles on that engine. Would it have made more power and burned less oil had I had the block tanked, machined, new pistons, file-fit rings, rods sized, balanced... well yeah. Of course it would have! But it did its job, and that same car NOW has a 440 that HAS been built "the right way," in part because I went cheap back then and got another 10 years out of the filthy, tired old 383. No, it wasn't a "waste of time" by any definition. At least not to me! And kudos for Tony and Brian for taking the low-buck plunge, and to Nick for working with an engine like that as hard as he did! Heck, I'm very impressed at the rough numbers with wrong timing and no tuning... those 318s were never rated at more than 230 HP (gross) in stock form. Thumbs up all around!!
ok boomer.
That's a really long winded post. Thanks for boring us to tears.
I know what your saying. Back when I was a young father earning very little I did a in-chassis rebuild of a 65 318 in my parents side yard. We worked with what we had. Mow the grass real short so that dropped nut can be found. 5 years later it was sent to the crusher as it was too rusted to fix. It still ran great.
I'm sixteen and just spent the last week throwing together a 318 with $800. But you better bet, every INCH of that engine was sprayed and wiped down with brake cleaner.
Just seemed to be too many cooks in that kitchen...Everyone experienced but doing different things. Things get missed that way...I always started and finished a build. If mistakes were made they were mine.
This was good for me to watch. 1 - I learned some tidbits that will be helpful as I'm mid stream of my top end rebuild on a 302 (my very first!), but also 2 - the reminder that even some of the best out there can throw some stuff together and still have issues to troubleshoot. So I shouldn't be scared to fail myself. Really cool! So thanks for sharing! I have plenty to learn!
So he got the same HP numbers as a stock 318 2 bbl, congrats.
im a old fella but sure is nice to have nick show the tuning side of engines. dad say your never to old to learn. thanks fellas
It all boils down to when you rush things you miss things
Like your response- before reading the pinned article??.. AMC lifters...Composite head gaskets...
Easy and unseen mistake.
@@thomassmith9243 so what are you trying to say when you get to hurry you don't make mistakes??
@@rodney1818 it’s called a marathon challenge, it wasn’t meant to be a complete serious engine build, it was made from cheaper parts, and used parts.
@@RD-0525 This!! With all UTs know how this never shoulda happened.
Comedy of errors but not funny for the guy paying for all this & doing it over again.
Toomuch wrong with that engine. Ive done dirt driveway messican rebuilds and not encountered a problem.
My first car in high school was a 1973 Plymouth Duster with a 318 engine. That engine sound brings back memories. That engine was very stout and reliable as it never broke down on me when I had it for 10 years. It wasn't the most powerful engine, but it had the right balance of power and torque to make it fun enough to drive. Also it was very reliable, reliability was the most important issue during school as it didn't cost me much at all to upkeep and drive during high school and few years into college. Much respect to the 318 engine.
I’ve watched Uncle Tony find him entertaining and have picked up some tips but he’s a hack , there are certain aspects you don’t cheap out on when building an engine . Don’t have the budget , eat more Kraft dinner and save up till you can get it done right . Big respect for Nick .
I agree. Even before Nick downsized the carb I knew 750cfm was too large for a 318. If you watch Tony's video he says the 750 is a perfect fit. Also, the freeze plugs were not properly sealed, all six were leaking. I trust Nick's judgment over Tony's in mechanicals. That being said, Tony has great passion for rebuilding mopar street machines and knows a lot about the history of these old classics.
Idk who Nick is but I just found this channel and love it! Subscribed. Not enough old timers out there passing along the secrets to us youngin’s
Glad you found us, Mark. Tell your friends?
@@NicksGarage hI Nick... been a fan of your channel for a couple of years now.. being from ont by way of Nfld, i appreciate that there are places such as your shop that are killing ity with passing on info and tech tips...wish there was some sorta data base listing locates of shops where we could just look them up and call for help, send then our projects ... you all do awesome work and the guys you have at your shop are first rate... keep the pedal to the metal and smile all the way..cheers
Love the collabs Nick... thanks for doing them. Buying merch now! Looking forward to the next test of this engine. Big lesson... don't skip the hot-tank, even if you're skipping the machine shop.
Uncle Tony Way to go you just made it to the hall of shame
SEND IT NICK!!!! I watched this build pretty carefully!! This is the reason i said it's going to BLOW UP when it goes to 5 grand!!
And the story continues..
What a great episode! Very valuable lesson on the importance of a good cleaning. At Saturn per the shop manual after engine honing the block needed to be cleaned with Tide laundry detergent and high pressure hot water to flush away the debri from honing.
Excellent way to start the week with a collaborated project of the great minds of Mopar. Can’t wait to see next test and maybe get a sponsor to get things going to bigger plans. You guys can get this done. Thanks for the great video.
It was awesome meeting both of these legends. I build Engines like the 7M, 2JZ, 1UZ, and LS so this was a great way to dive into MOPAR for the first time.
Cleanliness is above godliness and money in a build.
That's what I love about nick the willingness to share his knowledge with all of us. you don't get this kind of people very often, thanks nick. like I said before I will work for you and in return I get a slice of pizza and the knowledge.
Thank you Carmelo!
I have worked for Dodge for 43 years Engine man i built many engs never had this problem you could eat out of my motors never never put one up without hot tank
Nice to watch a professional at work Nick!
Nick is a real stand up guy. He donated a lot of shop time and has offered to do another test once everything has been corrected. I watch most of the marathon build and no one should feel bad about the outcome. Stuff happens. If you haven't experienced a problem on a rebuild then you haven't been doing it long enough. On a personal note this why I like to having a engine run test stand. I don't like bending over a fender to sort issues out.
Glad you did this collaboration, lots of lessons all around.
As a long-time owner of a '88 5.0, I love seeing Tonys involvement. Many might not know, Tony was one of the original pioneers of the Fox Mustang 5.0 movement. He took his brand new factory stock 87 LX to high 13's and the rest was history. Him, Bob Cosby, Neil Van Opre, Ed Hohenburg. Original Fox Mustang gang.
From the state of Rhode Island in the U.S.-Love the pairing of the two channels-fun/interesting video guys!
Tony's channel is another of my top 10 favorites on youtube. He's a 225, slant 6, master! I love how he runs through the physics and engineering of that motor. Just like Nick's channel, much to learn. Thanks for this vid!
Your good man Nick with the understanding we all need to learn. Thanks for acknowledging the the good viewer Tips.
Thank you for tuning in Daryl!
When l was young l have had 3 318 builds....All 3 had low oil pressure problems.....318 are notorious for that.....ln my case, it was the cam bearing....But even with that fixed in 2 of them it was still low oil pressure.....But like l said it was in my case.....Thanks Nick and the guy's....Fun stuff to watch.....!
First truck had a 318 in it burned and leaked oil like crazy but always ran. I love these little mopar small blocks and hope to see more of them in the future:)
Many people discount the 318 as Mopar's "little" motor but in reality with a stock bore it's only 9 inches smaller than a Chevy 327 and with an .030 over bore it's only 4 inches smaller. Good heads, intake, cam and headers and it will really respond. I can't wait to see this engine when everything is worked out.
318 can make good engines, but the bore is the big downfall. At 3.91 it’s harder to get high compression without running into ptv clearance. And big valve heads will run into valve shrouding. Great engines, but most people start with a 360 because they almost as cheap and a better platform.
A cautionary tail for all DIYers. Keeping things clean in spite of not haven’t industrial cleaning available. Also to double checking assemblies. Thanks to all of you!
Right if anything always make sure things are cleaned and tightend to specs.
Ive cleaned engine parts with carb clean and brushes .then washed in purple power and car washed them. Then washed with my pressure washer. Reinspect and reclean with more carb clean and compressed air. Parts can be clean it just takes some effort
A good pressure washing session blasting out all the passages in the block and heads would have been extremely helpful here.
Lifters were ticking the entire time. Glad they dove in and found the problem!
Wow you’re such a good man Tony. Thank you for sharing and for all your hard work you are the man. I love watching you show the young bucks up. Two thumbs up 👍
Nick and crew, I love your show! Nick you're the best! Only wish I lived closer to you!
I like the drama that you put on the show makes things exciting especially the music overdramatic but fun.
Keep it up
Giasou Nikola,
As per usual your knowledge, patience, workmanship, enthusiasm, & willing to teach & pass on your knowledge is commendable.
We are not going to live forever & someone needs to carry the torch, Brian is that next generation & we need to nurture them & teach them everything.
Mistake or no mistake everything is a learning curve.
Well done Nikola, proud of you mate.👍
Your number 1 Fan in Australia
Louis Kats from Melbourne Australia ☺ 👍 ❤
Thank you Louis, it is greatly appreciated.
When rebuilding an engine you have to replace the bronze bushing that the camshaft drive shaft gear which turns the oil pump spins on, its in the block... I think it is called the oil pump drive gear bushing. Otherwise the oil pressure will be low. I tried to attach a link to a picture but youtube won't allow links. Also running the engine without cleaning all the oil passages was not a good idea. Just imagine the crud that would have been blocking oil from getting through to vital components... That is most likely why there were metal shavings in the oil pan.
Nick is one class act , and top notch mechanic for sure👍 always learn stuff listening to Nick.
Cant wait to see Tony's explanation video about this. The scripts being written so stay tuned.
I owned many a vehicle with a 318, some had great power others would not fall out of a tree if you cut the limb but all were dependable.
Thanks Nick.
Well Nick. As always i love to watch your Videos. In this case the Guy or Guy's who put this 318 together had prettymuch ignored every thing there is in engine building. First he didn't clean the block completely. Then they put the wrong lifters in it. Not to mention not wanting to put sealant around the freeze plugs. Ignorance is one thing but this is absolute total incompetence. I wouldn't trust them with my lawn mower let alone an Automotive engine. I've been rebuilding engines for over 55 years. I've seen alot of stupidity over the years like this.
Had a 74 charger with a 318 , she wasn't the fastest thing around but that 318 ran and ran arizona heat 140,000 miles on it and more abuse being driven like she was a big block , can't beat them, like the slant 6 , takes a licking and keeps on ticking... great show nick.
We’re all learning! Sometimes the hard way! But we’re learning!
Looking forward to part 2!
Yes, we all are!
Glad to see they figured why the oil pressure was dropping. I had a 1971 318 out of an old truck that the crank shaft had a good 1/4 inch of end play if you hit the throttle quickly. It never popped a drive belt, it idled so smoothly that sometimes I would hit the starter ,thinking it was off, when it was at idle. It also carried 40 lbs of oil pressure on a mechanical gauge at idle. I had to prove those facts to several people. I later sold the truck and that guy ran it for years. It finally rusted until it was no longer safe to be on the road.