thanks for the video. tips for anyone doing this. 1) The factory hose clamps need to be cut off. Twisting the clamps can cause the return hose bib to (the bigger one) snap off, requiring purchase of whole new assembly. 2) Make sure tank is partially drained, as part of the tank is above the fuel pump line, and will leak gas when disconnected.
Thanks for this, was very helpful. I couldn't get the pump into the case even with a hot air gun. In the end, I dremeled a slot in the side of the case to relieve some pressure, so that he pump slid in, then used a large jubilee around the outside of the case to add some strength and make sure that the pump couldn't move. Ultimately I think it was a perfectly good mod if anyone else is struggling with it.
Estoy haciendo lo mismo pero no puedo sacar el filtro que va abajo de la bomba, y en la parte del video que lo saca, esta acelerado eel video y no entiendo como sale !
For any skilled mechanic, this has to be painful to watch. But, in all fairness this is one of the most Annoying Assemblies Known To Man! I had to struggle to get mine right. Here are a few Hints to getting it right the first time.( by 3rd or 4th time this is not fun!) First if your pump does not run but it hasn't got Lots of miles on it ( 30-40K) ( test with battery on bench) Give It a Couple of Whacks on the Side BEFORE YOU TAKE THE ASSEMBLY APART ! The brushes were stuck on mine...and that made it work just fine again !!! 1.IF you Use a new fuel line measure it and both nipples ! . 2. Install the fuel line on the pump and make sure it is fully on the nipple and secure BEFORE you put the pump back into the white carrier. 3. I suggest using a piece of stainless safety wire twisted tight around the hose to hold it on the nipple ( if you can pull the fuel line off.. it is NOT secure and will blow off !). 4. Install the pump into the carrier correctly.. the pump nipple goes UNDER the black nipple of the top section. This will put your filter back pointing the same way it came out ( he uses an arrow). 5. Understand that the pump operates at a constant 50 psi ( 3 bar) and the hoses can and WILL blow off either nipple...if not fit perfectly. Your only clue is the bike wont run. I measured both nipples ( original parts) and they were NOT the same size ! This made getting the new fuel line on very difficult. And both ends did blow off (different days) before I clamped the top one, and safety wired the lower one (after removing it from the white carrier again !). 6. Be careful with the insulation on the reserve float switch... mine got crispy and I had to replace the wiring with teflon insulated wire. 7, Test the float switch with your Ohm Meter... it is just off /on turn it upside down to test. 8. The external hoses MUST have clamps.. or they will leak and maybe blow off. Check the orientation of the pump assy ( using the external lines) before your tighten the screw on lid. If your rubber connectors are toast ( ethanol) you CAN buy replacements from Euro electomotive.com. I show how to make replacements out of fuel line and tie-wraps if you need to fix it in the field. (video on youtube).
@@shakey2634 bmw only sells the whole assembly $480 US Dollars. A Chinese pump kit is about $35 US dollars on Ebay.. or from US sellers about $75 ( same thing in a box). So $450 is the answer. However IF you need the 3 rubber isolation dampers ( connectors) they cost $46 a set. but I show how to make a good substitute for 50 cents . It pays to give your "dead" pump a few taps... mine had the brushes stuck and it came back to life...and works fine again. Only 10K miles on it.. but it sat dry 5 years ( no corrosion no gum or dirt). I would do that after removing the assembly.. before taking it apart. It is fuel lubed.. so only run 1-2 seconds 2-3 times to test on the work bench.
thanks for the video.
tips for anyone doing this. 1) The factory hose clamps need to be cut off. Twisting the clamps can cause the return hose bib to (the bigger one) snap off, requiring purchase of whole new assembly. 2) Make sure tank is partially drained, as part of the tank is above the fuel pump line, and will leak gas when disconnected.
Thanks for this, was very helpful. I couldn't get the pump into the case even with a hot air gun. In the end, I dremeled a slot in the side of the case to relieve some pressure, so that he pump slid in, then used a large jubilee around the outside of the case to add some strength and make sure that the pump couldn't move. Ultimately I think it was a perfectly good mod if anyone else is struggling with it.
Good idea. Mine was a very tight fit
Thanks for posting this, it answers a few questions on fitting these aftermarket pumps :-)
Estoy haciendo lo mismo pero no puedo sacar el filtro que va abajo de la bomba, y en la parte del video que lo saca, esta acelerado eel video y no entiendo como sale !
Perfeito!! So deveria por segurança, ter desligado a bateria!!!!!!!!🇧🇷
thanks for the video, how did you get the nylon filter basket off? cheers
I forced it off with a big screwdriver and it clipped back on after the pump was in place
cheers mate, a bit more force did the trick, much appreciated
For any skilled mechanic, this has to be painful to watch. But, in all fairness this is one of the most Annoying Assemblies Known To Man! I had to struggle to get mine right. Here are a few Hints to getting it right the first time.( by 3rd or 4th time this is not fun!) First if your pump does not run but it hasn't got Lots of miles on it ( 30-40K) ( test with battery on bench) Give It a Couple of Whacks on the Side BEFORE YOU TAKE THE ASSEMBLY APART ! The brushes were stuck on mine...and that made it work just fine again !!! 1.IF you Use a new fuel line measure it and both nipples ! . 2. Install the fuel line on the pump and make sure it is fully on the nipple and secure BEFORE you put the pump back into the white carrier. 3. I suggest using a piece of stainless safety wire twisted tight around the hose to hold it on the nipple ( if you can pull the fuel line off.. it is NOT secure and will blow off !). 4. Install the pump into the carrier correctly.. the pump nipple goes UNDER the black nipple of the top section. This will put your filter back pointing the same way it came out ( he uses an arrow). 5. Understand that the pump operates at a constant 50 psi ( 3 bar) and the hoses can and WILL blow off either nipple...if not fit perfectly. Your only clue is the bike wont run. I measured both nipples ( original parts) and they were NOT the same size ! This made getting the new fuel line on very difficult. And both ends did blow off (different days) before I clamped the top one, and safety wired the lower one (after removing it from the white carrier again !). 6. Be careful with the insulation on the reserve float switch... mine got crispy and I had to replace the wiring with teflon insulated wire. 7, Test the float switch with your Ohm Meter... it is just off /on turn it upside down to test. 8. The external hoses MUST have clamps.. or they will leak and maybe blow off. Check the orientation of the pump assy ( using the external lines) before your tighten the screw on lid. If your rubber connectors are toast ( ethanol) you CAN buy replacements from Euro electomotive.com. I show how to make replacements out of fuel line and tie-wraps if you need to fix it in the field. (video on youtube).
Good work! What model is the new fuel pump?
The replacement pump was AMS44144. The original pump was a Bosch 580 453 A39
@@jerseytim100 Excellent work! Thanks for the video, regards from Uruguay.
@@alegarciadelrio thank you. Glad you enjoyed it
How much did you save over replacing the whole unit?
@@shakey2634 bmw only sells the whole assembly $480 US Dollars. A Chinese pump kit is about $35 US dollars on Ebay.. or from US sellers about $75 ( same thing in a box). So $450 is the answer. However IF you need the 3 rubber isolation dampers ( connectors) they cost $46 a set. but I show how to make a good substitute for 50 cents . It pays to give your "dead" pump a few taps... mine had the brushes stuck and it came back to life...and works fine again. Only 10K miles on it.. but it sat dry 5 years ( no corrosion no gum or dirt). I would do that after removing the assembly.. before taking it apart. It is fuel lubed.. so only run 1-2 seconds 2-3 times to test on the work bench.
Bravo
The wires to the level sensor had the insulation destroyed on mine
see my video on replacing the wires.. it isn't hard to do.. especially if you can solder.
@@captlarry-3525 Thanks very much .