The best trick I've seen was uncle jessy and frankly built would slice a thin section of the helmet to get the size right for wearing. I'm going to have to try that weathering effect that looked so much easier than others I've seen.
Ive done the thin slice method for sizing before and it works pretty good, although this helmet isnt as easy to do that with as the geometry at the bottom isnt consistant. Originally i didnt plan on doing the full suit, just print a helmet for some background "art" thats why it was just at default size, after deciding to do the full suit i printed one that was scaled
My favorite painting technique is doing a metallic silver base coat, then go in and down some petroleum jelly in key areas and then paint my next color, wipe away to expose the now chipped paint then do the next color for multiple chipped paint layers
Bondo glazing putty can be cut with acetone, which helps for doing something large like this. Sanding sponges are also really useful for the last pass on a curve surface like this or an R2-D2 heads. :) Getting locked into "finish first or join first" for every different model is a mistake. Different projects need different approaches. Or a mix of both - if you had to split parts, joining them first lets you smooth out the seam that doesn't exist on the "real" helmet. Be flexible as you do things! One thing that should always be emphasised in video like this is ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS test new paint or new paint combinations on scrap. Especially with rattle cans. The carrier medium in the spray paint can react to either plastic or other kinds of paint and either deform things or just never cure. (Literally never - I have a plastic ball I painted silver for a LARP 25 years ago and it's still sticky to touch.) And this last thought may be covered in your Mando armour videos, but painting something metal-coloured, letting that cure, and then using wet-masking or salt-masking in random spots before you paint it the top colour is a great way to simulate chipped paint.
Great video! I suggest doing the weathering in multiple thin layers though. Solid black then a couple shades of dark brown. Really adds a lot of depth. I also like weathering with oil paints. Acrylic works great but there's a lot more you can do with oil paint.
Have the same file trying to print on the voron trident. Wish you would go over how you printed it with supports and everything because I can't get it to print the dome with less then 38 hours
I got curious about how big actual military helmets were, and found a 36 page research paper from the Canadian Forces examining the then-extant (2010) helmets and comparing them with a selection of laser-scans of soldiers' heads. They concluded that the existing Small and Medium sized worked well but the Large needed to be a bit bigger front-to-back. Unfortunately, They also decided very quickly that circumference mattered a lot less than length and breadth and so didn't provide any information about the helmet circumference's. Alas. Not really relevant to the video but I figured it made a nice funny comment for the algorithm.
Maybe a 2L pop bottle would work for vacuum forming. It says PET but maybe it specifically would be a PET-G plastic. Thought maybe it would be if companies need to heat it to form it into a bottle shape and because the bottles are clear.... maybe it would be the right stuff.
Hey there, I’m making an entire suit of the armor and I gotta say I loved your video, but I have to ask, could you give an eta to when you think you’ll publish a video finishing the rest the rest of the pieces? It’s mostly because I’m heading to a con in June and was hoping I could follow the directions for the rest of the set before it comes hahaha
@@SebastianZalewski-p6w you can get some pretty thin neodymiums out there and some pretty chonky ones too. So maybe you can get something. But agree thin components could be an issue with like tear out. I looked at “ kjmagnetics dot com “ in the past as they have good calculators and go into a bit of science on strength etc. amplifying force, halbach arrays etc.
Do you have the capability to make a full suit? Love the look of what you're doing. Looking to make a live action vid for Hell Divers soon. Would gladly hire you to make that happen.
Can the back part be with Magnets? So in case you want to remove the helmet might be a bit easier to take off. But I want to know before buying from Galactic armory.
I got an Ender 3 v2 with the same bed size, which is too small for many parts to be printed as a whole. Did you print the pre-seperated parts then? And how did you put them together so that they don't break apart anymore? I'm a abit afraid of that
@@turwaith I printed the front with the usual files, But i printed the back and dome with the pre-separated files. I glued the parts together with two part epoxy gorilla glue, but I did have some trouble with the back not fitting.
@@JarJarThinks And it does hold together nicely with this glue? Or did you secure the parts in different ways additionally? Because I was thinking of applying multiple layers of 3D print resin and harden it to make the seams even stronger
You can do projects like this on a 99$ ender 3, and people have Better printers just tend to get your more reliable results, larger print volumes, and extra quality of life goodies
One of my jobs. I got paid to do a hobby. :~) I worked at Magic Mushroom Lamp & Waterfall Co. The lamp mfg is no longer in business. You can look online to see the mushroom shaped waterfall lamps I made. We cast, oxylite (cultured marble [plastic]) into a lamp shape. They come out WHITE. My job was to make the pieces parts look correct. Pine cones, acorns, manzanita, frogs, pond, rocks. Most of those things were covered in the staining steps. (airbrush). The rocks were various colors. Which we got from rattle cans. The CHEAP stuff. NO $4.00/can stuff for us. We used the $1.25/can cans. We would take a butterfly (flat) drill bit and pierce a small hole in the top of the can. Leaving the bit in the hole, propped against the wall over night. This would bleed off most of the propellant. The next morning we could remove the bit and pour the paint into our airbrush bottles. I asked the boss why rattle can paint. He had been doing this for 30 years and had tried many techniques. He said it was because the viscosity was perfect. Rattle can nozzles are a #5 to #7 airbrush nozzle. Most of the spraying we did was with a #3 and #1 tip. Good paint, premixed and consistent. The cans also come with a glass marble which allows for easy mixing. Once a can was opened it would last a week in the can. 2 weeks if we put some tape over the hole. With used up cans, I would cut the top off and collect the glass marbles. I would put one in the 4oz airbrush bottle to keep the paint mixed as I worked. We used the $125.00 Pache dual action air brushes. Very rugged. Made out of brass. You can get all the parts to repair and rebuild them. They are NOT the BEST. They are also not the WORST. (The $20.00 single action, all plastic, Badger gets that title.) But they are cheap and will last a long time. The boss said he would have to buy new ones every 3-5 years. (Depending upon the monkey/gorilla employee using them.) That is a lot of life. 8hrs/day, 5days a week. My only other "Life Hack" is to use a pipe cleaner to clean out the passages where the needle goes. If your gentle you can use a welding (oxy/act) tip cleaner (wires) to clean out the smaller holes (air passages). Plus to make the needle work easier, put a thin coat of Vaseline (Petroleum jelly) on the needle after cleaning and before re-inserting. It helps the rubber seals to slide easier. For anything else there are ton's of airbrush tutorials on youtube.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
The best trick I've seen was uncle jessy and frankly built would slice a thin section of the helmet to get the size right for wearing. I'm going to have to try that weathering effect that looked so much easier than others I've seen.
Ive done the thin slice method for sizing before and it works pretty good, although this helmet isnt as easy to do that with as the geometry at the bottom isnt consistant.
Originally i didnt plan on doing the full suit, just print a helmet for some background "art" thats why it was just at default size, after deciding to do the full suit i printed one that was scaled
Yeah a sizing ring. I was telling people to do that 6 years ago. Maybe I should have trademarked the idea, lol
Can you print a 500kg bomb next? lol
The FBI is calling...
don’t listen to @ThatTallGingerYT , DO IT FOR DEMOCRACY
@@ThatTallGingerYT I'm reporting the FBI to my democracy officer if they try anything funny.
^>vvv
↓↑←↓↑→↓↑
Have a taste of LIBER-TEA!!!
My favorite painting technique is doing a metallic silver base coat, then go in and down some petroleum jelly in key areas and then paint my next color, wipe away to expose the now chipped paint then do the next color for multiple chipped paint layers
Bondo glazing putty can be cut with acetone, which helps for doing something large like this. Sanding sponges are also really useful for the last pass on a curve surface like this or an R2-D2 heads. :)
Getting locked into "finish first or join first" for every different model is a mistake. Different projects need different approaches. Or a mix of both - if you had to split parts, joining them first lets you smooth out the seam that doesn't exist on the "real" helmet. Be flexible as you do things!
One thing that should always be emphasised in video like this is ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS test new paint or new paint combinations on scrap. Especially with rattle cans. The carrier medium in the spray paint can react to either plastic or other kinds of paint and either deform things or just never cure. (Literally never - I have a plastic ball I painted silver for a LARP 25 years ago and it's still sticky to touch.)
And this last thought may be covered in your Mando armour videos, but painting something metal-coloured, letting that cure, and then using wet-masking or salt-masking in random spots before you paint it the top colour is a great way to simulate chipped paint.
Great video! I suggest doing the weathering in multiple thin layers though. Solid black then a couple shades of dark brown. Really adds a lot of depth. I also like weathering with oil paints. Acrylic works great but there's a lot more you can do with oil paint.
Great video! Cool helmet! Makes me want to start printing helmets... and playing Helldivers lol
Have the same file trying to print on the voron trident. Wish you would go over how you printed it with supports and everything because I can't get it to print the dome with less then 38 hours
Short clip in the video, but sliced in orca slicer with organic supports just around the outside of the helmet
ohhh that's DOPE! I've really been enjoying the game as well!!
I got curious about how big actual military helmets were, and found a 36 page research paper from the Canadian Forces examining the then-extant (2010) helmets and comparing them with a selection of laser-scans of soldiers' heads. They concluded that the existing Small and Medium sized worked well but the Large needed to be a bit bigger front-to-back. Unfortunately, They also decided very quickly that circumference mattered a lot less than length and breadth and so didn't provide any information about the helmet circumference's. Alas.
Not really relevant to the video but I figured it made a nice funny comment for the algorithm.
Maybe a 2L pop bottle would work for vacuum forming. It says PET but maybe it specifically would be a PET-G plastic. Thought maybe it would be if companies need to heat it to form it into a bottle shape and because the bottles are clear.... maybe it would be the right stuff.
Hey there, I’m making an entire suit of the armor and I gotta say I loved your video, but I have to ask, could you give an eta to when you think you’ll publish a video finishing the rest the rest of the pieces? It’s mostly because I’m heading to a con in June and was hoping I could follow the directions for the rest of the set before it comes hahaha
GET SOME GET SOME
11:25 would embedded neodymium with a decent pull force work or do you need to tension/ flexibility of an occystrap/ elastic band?
any idea ho to do that? helm is quite thin
@@SebastianZalewski-p6w you can get some pretty thin neodymiums out there and some pretty chonky ones too. So maybe you can get something. But agree thin components could be an issue with like tear out.
I looked at “ kjmagnetics dot com “ in the past as they have good calculators and go into a bit of science on strength etc. amplifying force, halbach arrays etc.
Hello, could you give the link to the welding glasses you used?
LET'S GO! Great video bro.
Looks great!
Time to dive!
FOR THE DEMOCRACY!!!
Hello, great work, the helmet looks great, could you please tell me the Amazon link for the welding lens replacement, thank you
Search Hobart welding lens replacement
@@CanuckCreatorthx
Do you have the capability to make a full suit? Love the look of what you're doing. Looking to make a live action vid for Hell Divers soon. Would gladly hire you to make that happen.
Its in progress right now actually
Can the back part be with Magnets? So in case you want to remove the helmet might be a bit easier to take off. But I want to know before buying from Galactic armory.
Sweet job
link the welding visor you used? please?
It’s looks quite nice outcome..👍.
The video ambience looks good too. Is that filtered, colour graded etc. or just dimmed lights etc.
I would take this cosplay straight to a airsoft arena
I have a big head, almost 24 inch big, So i think i good to go! :D
Does the helm smell like loads of paint and epoxy when wearing it?
Slick! For democracy.
what is the best epoxy to use to mend together pieces?? or what did you use?
did you apply a clear coat after you did the main paint job??
how much Grams that helmet has ?
More buckets are best buckets
Making trash is fun
Could I print this on an Ender 3 v3 SE?
Edit: Yes, yes I can and it looks so cool can’t wait to start painting it!
I got an Ender 3 v2 with the same bed size, which is too small for many parts to be printed as a whole. Did you print the pre-seperated parts then? And how did you put them together so that they don't break apart anymore? I'm a abit afraid of that
@@turwaith I printed the front with the usual files, But i printed the back and dome with the pre-separated files. I glued the parts together with two part epoxy gorilla glue, but I did have some trouble with the back not fitting.
@@JarJarThinks And it does hold together nicely with this glue? Or did you secure the parts in different ways additionally? Because I was thinking of applying multiple layers of 3D print resin and harden it to make the seams even stronger
@@turwaith It seems to hold together pretty well, but you could add some if you feel like it needs it.
Dang I Really want to make this!! But jeebus the price is high on that STL file!!! like thats what i would expect to pay for a fully done helmit!
Feel free to cad your own
What is the cheapest printer that would support making everything
If your ok with slicing the parts into smaller prints, pretty much any really (like an ender 3)
@@CanuckCreator oh God lol. I'm sure this isn't an easy task. I don't wanna buy an already made suit for 2000$
@@CanuckCreator the ones on eBay say refurbished. Would you trust that?
What orientation for the dome do you recommend on a cura slicer?
I printed it as is, with just support around the outside
Came to roast the visor...
Stayed because funny hat😂😂😂
FOR DEMOCRACY
Basic PLA is a no-no? I mean i little bit worry about printing ABS, because the fumes and warping. Maybe because i never used it. Any recommendations?
i printed mine in PLA its fine. im printing a second one in PLA+ soon.
@@rickbolton379 Thank you for your reply! :D
What did you prime with?
Primer filler it’s a type of spray paint primer that fills the gaps as well
Great video
Is that your game play?
Yup, does that mean i can write the cost of the game off as a business expense on my taxes now?
@@CanuckCreator maybe the rattle cans and filament too!
How expensive is a printer like that to get into the hobby?
You can do projects like this on a 99$ ender 3, and people have
Better printers just tend to get your more reliable results, larger print volumes, and extra quality of life goodies
@@CanuckCreator Thanks for your input!
cool helmet
can the main part of the helmet be printed on an x1c?
It should fit
One of my jobs. I got paid to do a hobby. :~) I worked at Magic Mushroom Lamp & Waterfall Co. The lamp mfg is no longer in business. You can look online to see the mushroom shaped waterfall lamps I made. We cast, oxylite (cultured marble [plastic]) into a lamp shape. They come out WHITE. My job was to make the pieces parts look correct. Pine cones, acorns, manzanita, frogs, pond, rocks. Most of those things were covered in the staining steps. (airbrush). The rocks were various colors. Which we got from rattle cans. The CHEAP stuff. NO $4.00/can stuff for us. We used the $1.25/can cans. We would take a butterfly (flat) drill bit and pierce a small hole in the top of the can. Leaving the bit in the hole, propped against the wall over night. This would bleed off most of the propellant. The next morning we could remove the bit and pour the paint into our airbrush bottles. I asked the boss why rattle can paint. He had been doing this for 30 years and had tried many techniques. He said it was because the viscosity was perfect. Rattle can nozzles are a #5 to #7 airbrush nozzle. Most of the spraying we did was with a #3 and #1 tip. Good paint, premixed and consistent. The cans also come with a glass marble which allows for easy mixing. Once a can was opened it would last a week in the can. 2 weeks if we put some tape over the hole. With used up cans, I would cut the top off and collect the glass marbles. I would put one in the 4oz airbrush bottle to keep the paint mixed as I worked.
We used the $125.00 Pache dual action air brushes. Very rugged. Made out of brass. You can get all the parts to repair and rebuild them. They are NOT the BEST. They are also not the WORST. (The $20.00 single action, all plastic, Badger gets that title.) But they are cheap and will last a long time. The boss said he would have to buy new ones every 3-5 years. (Depending upon the monkey/gorilla employee using them.) That is a lot of life. 8hrs/day, 5days a week. My only other "Life Hack" is to use a pipe cleaner to clean out the passages where the needle goes. If your gentle you can use a welding (oxy/act) tip cleaner (wires) to clean out the smaller holes (air passages). Plus to make the needle work easier, put a thin coat of Vaseline (Petroleum jelly) on the needle after cleaning and before re-inserting. It helps the rubber seals to slide easier.
For anything else there are ton's of airbrush tutorials on youtube.
Nice
Imagine not doing a single print for a helm.
Democracy intensifies
Why is everyone unsubbing?
I have no idea what your talking about
I got some questions and concerns...Love your Content though. Keep it up.
What does that even mean
PET become opaque when heated too much
If you have a BIKE, it`s ok
i hope the artificial weathering trend goes away
Nice