Thanks for the video Peachy. As someone who has very little experience of the newer electrics of model railways I would appreciate more information (if possible) on the points (turnouts). You say that you intend to power the Frogs on the Peco points using a two way switch which will switch the polarity of the Frog. Would it be possible to explain this in a future video? Am I right that you have used insulating fishplates to prevent shorting? Hope that this makes sense. Regards
No problem, I’ll add a piece explaining what I’m doing in the next episode. As for insulating fish plates, no I’m not using any. This layout will be for DCC HM7000 use only so there’s no need for them. I’ll explain in the video.
I also have decided to go down the DCC HM7000 route as well, so a ‘For Dummies’ guide would be appreciated. Not sure I can get my mind around it not shorting when the points (turnouts) activate. Look forward to this, and thank you. Regards von Klinkerhoffen
@@vonklinkerhoffen4343 On the new Peco points, only the very ‘V’ of the frog is live. The extended rails beyond the frog are insulated from the inner ‘V’. They now call them unifrogs.
Hi Peachy. You could have got away with just the one pack of PowerBase; although they are shaped to lay nestled, they can be laid with gaps between them. I don't know how many other YT videos on TT:120 you have watched, but there have been problems with the track from the Hornby train sets. For this reason, I have purchased TT:120 track from PECO. Ah, I see you have gone the way of PECO, too. I was hoping there would be metal Tracksetta templates available for TT:120 - sadly, not yet. My worry about the "plastic" ones is that they may not be very strong and may not last - how do you find them? Using Xuron track cutters: Charlie of Chadwick says (as you do) to cut vertically. Interesting use of a scalpel to remove burrs; most use a needle file. Ian's N Gauge channel did some experiments on running trains up (and down) inclines. He found that locos pulling trains fared better than locos pushing trains.
Yes I probably was a little excessive with the laying and when I work on my next layout I’ll probably try spacing them out. As for Hornby track, I’ve used it with no problems, my reasons to choose Peco were A; cost. The value of streamline flexi easily negates the extra expense of Peco’s points. B; flexibility, well at least until Hornby sort out their own flexi. C; nostalgia. I’ve fond memories as a boy looking at my Dads stack of OO streamline 100 and wondering about all the possibilities 😄. Ps the plastic laser cut guides worked just fine, they also have the bonus of more easily being cut at a bespoke radius.
Thanks for that Peach. I notice you are using foamboard underneath cork track bed. I’m weighing up what to put on top of my 12mm MDF baseboard. How thick is the foam and the cork? Ta mate Steve
The construction insulation is 40mm and the cork is 2mm. Tbh I only went down this route so I could easily pick up the whole layout plus it’s easy to sculpt into. My permanent fixed layout will be birch ply with 2mm neoprene foam rubber, it’s much quieter.
@@PeachyTT120 so what do you think of putting neoprene rubber on top of my baseboard and 2mm cork trackbed on top. I don’t think scenically are making trackbed for tt120 yet? Ta
No problem, they are a DCC concepts product (have a search on UA-cam or Google for some running videos if you like) they’re basically a magnet system to enhance traction for climbing (you need to glue one of the supplied magnets to the underside of the loco) These TT120 locomotives don’t have much weight although the motors have plenty of torque, so with a long train of coaches it’s likely to wheel spin. Especially with the lit Pullmans as they have a lot more friction caused by the pickups, which I’ve had wheelspin on the flat around tight curves. It’s belt and braces really and I just wanted an excuse to try it out.
Hi Peachy loving the videos - re the Powerbase and the new Hornby Locos I am wondering how much grunt the Flying Scotsman and Shunter has on a 3rd or 4th radius curved with a 2% gradient. Have you been able to test something like this yet? Thanks
Hello there slats, it all depends on what you’re pulling and I guessing you want to know what they can do without the assistance of DCC concepts power base? Well the Pacific A1-A4 chassis is pretty impressive and can easily handle a rake of 8 Mk1 coaches which seem to be the best free rolling Hornby stock so far produced. Whereas they can struggle with “dragging” 3 or 4 Pullman coaches with lights. The 08 again have a reasonable amount of power but the Hornby wagon rolling stock can fluctuate between very smooth and very draggy. I’ve pulled 10 “good” vent wagons & struggled to pull 5 “poor”. The tankers on the other hand are appalling. But with the magnetic power base none of these are a problem.
It was because these TT120 locos although perfectly capable of pulling long trains of free running MK1’s or vent wagons can hardly pull 3 of the Pullman coaches with lights or more than 4 of the little fuel tankers around a radius 3 on the dead flat. 🤷🏻♂️ Hopefully someone at Hornby will one day sort out the poor running tankers and change the pick-ups on the Pullmans. Until then it’s either a magnet system or rubber tyres 🤮
Hi mate thankyou for the tips on the track laying on the curves thankyou for the video
My pleasure
Getting there! We have movement. Can you give us a quick glimpse at the manual point levers please?
Cheers Tony, as for the points, @von Klinkerhoffen has also asked for more details so I’ll start the next episode with a review of the point work.
@@PeachyTT120 Thank you.
Thanks for the video Peachy.
As someone who has very little experience of the newer electrics of model railways I would appreciate more information (if possible) on the points (turnouts). You say that you intend to power the Frogs on the Peco points using a two way switch which will switch the polarity of the Frog. Would it be possible to explain this in a future video? Am I right that you have used insulating fishplates to prevent shorting?
Hope that this makes sense.
Regards
No problem, I’ll add a piece explaining what I’m doing in the next episode. As for insulating fish plates, no I’m not using any. This layout will be for DCC HM7000 use only so there’s no need for them. I’ll explain in the video.
I also have decided to go down the DCC HM7000 route as well, so a ‘For Dummies’ guide would be appreciated. Not sure I can get my mind around it not shorting when the points (turnouts) activate. Look forward to this, and thank you.
Regards
von Klinkerhoffen
@@vonklinkerhoffen4343 On the new Peco points, only the very ‘V’ of the frog is live. The extended rails beyond the frog are insulated from the inner ‘V’. They now call them unifrogs.
@@gregmacdonald927 Thanks. Just watched your latest video which has also helped.
Hi Peachy. You could have got away with just the one pack of PowerBase; although they are shaped to lay nestled, they can be laid with gaps between them. I don't know how many other YT videos on TT:120 you have watched, but there have been problems with the track from the Hornby train sets. For this reason, I have purchased TT:120 track from PECO. Ah, I see you have gone the way of PECO, too. I was hoping there would be metal Tracksetta templates available for TT:120 - sadly, not yet. My worry about the "plastic" ones is that they may not be very strong and may not last - how do you find them? Using Xuron track cutters: Charlie of Chadwick says (as you do) to cut vertically. Interesting use of a scalpel to remove burrs; most use a needle file. Ian's N Gauge channel did some experiments on running trains up (and down) inclines. He found that locos pulling trains fared better than locos pushing trains.
Yes I probably was a little excessive with the laying and when I work on my next layout I’ll probably try spacing them out. As for Hornby track, I’ve used it with no problems, my reasons to choose Peco were A; cost. The value of streamline flexi easily negates the extra expense of Peco’s points. B; flexibility, well at least until Hornby sort out their own flexi. C; nostalgia. I’ve fond memories as a boy looking at my Dads stack of OO streamline 100 and wondering about all the possibilities 😄. Ps the plastic laser cut guides worked just fine, they also have the bonus of more easily being cut at a bespoke radius.
Thanks for that Peach. I notice you are using foamboard underneath cork track bed. I’m weighing up what to put on top of my 12mm MDF baseboard. How thick is the foam and the cork?
Ta mate
Steve
The construction insulation is 40mm and the cork is 2mm. Tbh I only went down this route so I could easily pick up the whole layout plus it’s easy to sculpt into.
My permanent fixed layout will be birch ply with 2mm neoprene foam rubber, it’s much quieter.
@@PeachyTT120 so what do you think of putting neoprene rubber on top of my baseboard and 2mm cork trackbed on top. I don’t think scenically are making trackbed for tt120 yet?
Ta
@@stevio7777 sounds like a plan, you might have to muck about with adhesives though
Curiosity question. What are the power plates for? Not seen or heard of them before, thanks
No problem, they are a DCC concepts product (have a search on UA-cam or Google for some running videos if you like) they’re basically a magnet system to enhance traction for climbing (you need to glue one of the supplied magnets to the underside of the loco) These TT120 locomotives don’t have much weight although the motors have plenty of torque, so with a long train of coaches it’s likely to wheel spin. Especially with the lit Pullmans as they have a lot more friction caused by the pickups, which I’ve had wheelspin on the flat around tight curves. It’s belt and braces really and I just wanted an excuse to try it out.
@@PeachyTT120 Thanks for that. I did wonder as there were no wires mentioned. Sounds like a good idea. 👍👍
Hi Peachy
loving the videos - re the Powerbase and the new Hornby Locos I am wondering how much grunt the Flying Scotsman and Shunter has on a 3rd or 4th radius curved with a 2% gradient. Have you been able to test something like this yet? Thanks
Hello there slats, it all depends on what you’re pulling and I guessing you want to know what they can do without the assistance of DCC concepts power base?
Well the Pacific A1-A4 chassis is pretty impressive and can easily handle a rake of 8 Mk1 coaches which seem to be the best free rolling Hornby stock so far produced. Whereas they can struggle with “dragging” 3 or 4 Pullman coaches with lights.
The 08 again have a reasonable amount of power but the Hornby wagon rolling stock can fluctuate between very smooth and very draggy. I’ve pulled 10 “good” vent wagons & struggled to pull 5 “poor”.
The tankers on the other hand are appalling.
But with the magnetic power base none of these are a problem.
@@PeachyTT120 Thank Peachy - much appreciate it - perhaps this is another video you could do too. Cheers
@@SlatsSSN21 my next video “Gronk Fest” due up this weekend will have some pull tests at the end of the 08 running session. 😉
@@SlatsSSN21 check this short ua-cam.com/users/shortsdeZzLh7Kv0Q?feature=share
With the assistance of DCC power base
I don't get why you use alle the power plates, the only time I have seen these used is on steep hills, not on flat track
It was because these TT120 locos although perfectly capable of pulling long trains of free running MK1’s or vent wagons can hardly pull 3 of the Pullman coaches with lights or more than 4 of the little fuel tankers around a radius 3 on the dead flat. 🤷🏻♂️
Hopefully someone at Hornby will one day sort out the poor running tankers and change the pick-ups on the Pullmans.
Until then it’s either a magnet system or rubber tyres 🤮