This will be used in our shop as instantly. I'm pretty confident that I would have been able to start with the 1/8" bit to cut everything out. I'm am also confident that in order for me to achieve this level of perfection with the continuous grain. I would have needed 10-12 sheets of 3/4" Rift White Oak. At approximately $165.00/sheet in our area. Add in the machine and programing time it would have cost as well. You just save us a ton of time and money. Thank you so very much.
Great instructions. Followed along, set up my tools and tested! I actually have an Island in the shop that will be hor-grain all the way around. This class was perfect! It was a bit tricky getting all parts in the right order during optimization but found the only way I could was to select certain parts (only) to be optimized and break it up into 3 different optimizations. The key was to do 1 pattern and create g-code. Then do the next set. Open to suggestions. Thanks
New to mozaik and just came across this video! Amazing level of detail! Thanks for putting out this content! Can’t wait to check out the other videos you have out.
Very detailed, and it all makes perfect sense, I catch myself trying to fool Mozaik often. I like the setup and learned that trim offset works with bump L & bump D. Very good video, keep up the good work!
What is the reason for going 9/16" on upcut bit and not 3/4? Is that because Mozaik understands the remaining thickness of the part after using the 1/8" downcut? Thanks
I want to make sure the upcut bit does not go more than 3/16" deep into the remaining material on it's first pass...so I'm limiting the pass depth in that manner...
im wondering for flip side operations where the hinge cups are being drilled the squaring cut is done by the upshear bit. Can you change this to the compression bit, or because the upshear has to be the designated cutout tool you are stuck with it?
This is good but you are forgetting one thing. The edge banding thickness comes into play here. When I do real wood banding I use 1.5 mm edge tape and put a 1.5mm radius on at the bander to create a softer edge. When you do this you are better off using the 1/4" bits. that way when you add the banding and the 1/8" reveal and end up with an almost perfect grain match ( off by a touch but barely noticeable ) 1/4" bit = 6.35 mm part gap then add back in the two 1.5 mm reveals to get a 3.35 mm gap. Since 1/8" = 3.175 you are only off by 0.175 mm on the grain match which you really can not pick up on with the human eye. When we grain match Salt panels or other thermo-fused melamine or P-Lam the banding is usually 1mm so I use a 3/16 set of bits to get a net gap of 2.7625 mm so this is .7625 mm off of perfect but again not noticeable. 3/16 bit = 4.7625 add back the two 1mm edge bands = 2mm 4.7625 part gap - 2mm banding total = 2.76 grain match effective gap. But followed your techniques to achieve the machining and worked great ! keep it up learn a lot from your channel.
Certainly not forgotten Jonathan...a lot of cabinet shops utilizing these videos have premill edgebanders where the considerations you mention aren't necessary. But in the case of edgebanding without premill, you can certainly take that into account in Mozaik and choose bits and part spacing accordingly.
This will be used in our shop as instantly. I'm pretty confident that I would have been able to start with the 1/8" bit to cut everything out. I'm am also confident that in order for me to achieve this level of perfection with the continuous grain. I would have needed 10-12 sheets of 3/4" Rift White Oak. At approximately $165.00/sheet in our area. Add in the machine and programing time it would have cost as well. You just save us a ton of time and money. Thank you so very much.
Great to hear it Andy!
Great instructions.
Followed along, set up my tools and tested!
I actually have an Island in the shop that will be hor-grain all the way around. This class was perfect!
It was a bit tricky getting all parts in the right order during optimization but found the only way I could was to select certain parts (only) to be optimized and break it up into 3 different optimizations. The key was to do 1 pattern and create g-code. Then do the next set.
Open to suggestions. Thanks
New to mozaik and just came across this video! Amazing level of detail! Thanks for putting out this content! Can’t wait to check out the other videos you have out.
I appreciate what you did here. I learned something that I can use. Very Grateful. Think I will head over to your website and buy something👍
Glad it was helpful!
Very detailed, and it all makes perfect sense, I catch myself trying to fool Mozaik often. I like the setup and learned that trim offset works with bump L & bump D. Very good video, keep up the good work!
this is awesome keep adding to the shop
Nice video Nick.
This is very well explained. Thanks again. Vortex doesn't know they are coming up on a 1/8" bit shortage...😂
What is the reason for going 9/16" on upcut bit and not 3/4? Is that because Mozaik understands the remaining thickness of the part after using the 1/8" downcut? Thanks
I want to make sure the upcut bit does not go more than 3/16" deep into the remaining material on it's first pass...so I'm limiting the pass depth in that manner...
Excellent video! Congrats and thank you! What is the V bit for the mitre cut?
This is awesome!! Thanks for sharing.
Glad you liked it!
Thank You Nick!
Excellent! thanks for sharing!
Absolutely!
Awesome video!
How come it had the drawer numbers out of order? #1 #3 #2
Good vid !
im wondering for flip side operations where the hinge cups are being drilled the squaring cut is done by the upshear bit. Can you change this to the compression bit, or because the upshear has to be the designated cutout tool you are stuck with it?
Is the Mitre Fold V10 product library something that you made or something from mozaik?
I have the same question
This is available to Mozaik customers
This is good but you are forgetting one thing.
The edge banding thickness comes into play here. When I do real wood banding I use 1.5 mm edge tape and put a 1.5mm radius on at the bander to create a softer edge.
When you do this you are better off using the 1/4" bits. that way when you add the banding and the 1/8" reveal and end up with an almost perfect grain match ( off by a touch but barely noticeable ) 1/4" bit = 6.35 mm part gap then add back in the two 1.5 mm reveals to get a 3.35 mm gap. Since 1/8" = 3.175 you are only off by 0.175 mm on the grain match which you really can not pick up on with the human eye.
When we grain match Salt panels or other thermo-fused melamine or P-Lam the banding is usually 1mm so I use a 3/16 set of bits to get a net gap of 2.7625 mm so this is .7625 mm off of perfect but again not noticeable.
3/16 bit = 4.7625
add back the two 1mm edge bands = 2mm
4.7625 part gap - 2mm banding total = 2.76 grain match effective gap.
But followed your techniques to achieve the machining and worked great ! keep it up learn a lot from your channel.
Certainly not forgotten Jonathan...a lot of cabinet shops utilizing these videos have premill edgebanders where the considerations you mention aren't necessary. But in the case of edgebanding without premill, you can certainly take that into account in Mozaik and choose bits and part spacing accordingly.
@@frostcnc4712 Ahh that makes sense , Very nice use of the software , you come up with stuff I didn't even think of , way to go !?
Can you share your cabinet library?