I'm a bit puzzled on equalization. If your solar charge controller has a profile for LI, apparently it will already be a default setting. If you use a "User Mode" set of parameters, as I do, the manf (in my case AmpereTime) recommends "EQUALIZER CHARGING VOLTAGE 14V" and "EQUALIZE DURATION 120min" (note this is for my 200ah LiFePO4 purchased Sept 2021) I just googled this topic and see inconsistent results. I will adhere to the manufacturers parameters and would suggest to others to consult the product manual or contact support of the battery manf they own.
Anyone know why the battery state of charge shows 1/2 full when the battery voltage reads 12.8 volts? Is there a way to set the state of charge reading to 100% when the voltage reads 12.6?
Hi, i have mt 50 with four panels (240w) and four gel(180ah) batteries. System should work on 24v because of inverter. What is strange to me is user defined charge parameters cannot be changed? High voltage disconnect at 30v is too much i think? Can we change that?
Hi Dino, I found a copy of the MT-50 instruction manual, you can download it here: www.gme.cz/data/attachments/dsh.522-072.1.pdf Page 18 gives you the parameters, but only for 12 volt batteries. I believe the parameters cannot be changed, that's what pretty much the batteries manufacturers recommend. For gel type batteries at 12 volts, 16 volts is the disconnect voltage. Not sure it would be safe to say that at 24 volts the disconnect voltage is 32, but you mention 30. I have seen my 12 volts system spike up to 16, but remember it only last a few seconds and I never had any problems. So to answers your questions, no, I don't think you can change the set parameters for any type of batteries, but see if you have a "user" setting in the Battery Disconnect Voltage. It appears that you can change on a 12 volt system to anywhere between 9-17 volts. For the second part, I don't think that 30 volt disconnect is too high. Hope this helps. Good luck!
It sounds like you have your panels set up in series (panels connected negative to positive). Remember that voltage x amps = watts so you are getting about 106.5 watts total. Now several factors will determine how much you get from your panel. If it is overcast or cloudy you will get less watts. And the big thing, you have to have a "load" connected (TV, fan, fridge, etc.) that will make the wattage jump up to whatever your system requires. You will never get a full 410 watts, about 70% is more or less what you will get at best (middle of the day/sunny). Also take in consideration the panels angle and the direction they are facing. If they are not aligned right, your wattage will be lower. My system is a 500 watt right now and I plan to upgrade to 1000 in the future. At it's best I get about 325 watts for an hour or two around noon (sunny day), but I have seen it jump up to 429 watts for a few seconds. Then for about 2 hours before noon and two hours after I get between 250-300 watts. My battery bank is only 250 AH (5 - 50 AH batteries). I believe if I increase my battery bank, I might be able to increase also the watts I get, not sure on that yet. My best for one day is 2,567 watts, but average about 2200 on a sunny day. On an overcast day, about 450 watts. What I would recommend is to make sure your panels surface is clean, they face the sun and also are inclined at the right angle and check your readings at different times of the day and under different weather conditions. It's my impression by everything I've read that monocrystalline (black) panels give you a higher output than polycristalline (blue) panels during cloudy conditions. Believe it or not, I'm able to run a 514 watt air conditioner for about two-three hours in the middle of a sunny day Well, hope this helps!
The Solar Energy Channel thanks for the reply,i actually have them in parallel. I only got it set up so interesting to see what i get today its blue skys here in Ireland. I was going to try in series to see the difference
DecoD71 Hope you get better readings with a sunny day. If you are able to move them around make sure they face south. If you have an Android phone, there is an app by the name of Solar Tilt. Use it if you can, It will give you the solar panel inclination in degrees once it finds it's GPS position.
The Solar Energy Channel nice one. At the minute im getting 35.5v 7.7a at 270w I got a 40a controller i thought i would have more amps.. anyway thanks for the detailed replys il download that app
DecoD71 If you have an MPPT charge controller on a sunny day with a load you should get 60 to 70 percent of the panel rated wattage. Much less if you have a PWM controller. Good luck!
FYI, for LiFePo batteries no equalization, set eq. time to zero. Temp probe is also not needed set temp to zero.
I'm a bit puzzled on equalization. If your solar charge controller has a profile for LI, apparently it will already be a default setting. If you use a "User Mode" set of parameters, as I do, the manf (in my case AmpereTime) recommends "EQUALIZER CHARGING VOLTAGE 14V" and "EQUALIZE DURATION 120min" (note this is for my 200ah LiFePO4 purchased Sept 2021)
I just googled this topic and see inconsistent results. I will adhere to the manufacturers parameters and would suggest to others to consult the product manual or contact support of the battery manf they own.
Anyone know why the battery state of charge shows 1/2 full when the battery voltage reads 12.8 volts? Is there a way to set the state of charge reading to 100% when the voltage reads 12.6?
Anyone know if the load output terminals can be setup to automatically turn on and off the inverter based on battery voltage?
suggest use Triron or Tracer-AN 50-100A controller with replay port, plus an epever inverter
Hi, i have mt 50 with four panels (240w) and four gel(180ah) batteries. System should work on 24v because of inverter. What is strange to me is user defined charge parameters cannot be changed? High voltage disconnect at 30v is too much i think? Can we change that?
Hi Dino, I found a copy of the MT-50 instruction manual, you can download it here:
www.gme.cz/data/attachments/dsh.522-072.1.pdf
Page 18 gives you the parameters, but only for 12 volt batteries. I believe the parameters cannot be changed, that's what pretty much the batteries manufacturers recommend. For gel type batteries at 12 volts, 16 volts is the disconnect voltage. Not sure it would be safe to say that at 24 volts the disconnect voltage is 32, but you mention 30. I have seen my 12 volts system spike up to 16, but remember it only last a few seconds and I never had any problems.
So to answers your questions, no, I don't think you can change the set parameters for any type of batteries, but see if you have a "user" setting in the Battery Disconnect Voltage. It appears that you can change on a 12 volt system to anywhere between 9-17 volts.
For the second part, I don't think that 30 volt disconnect is too high. Hope this helps.
Good luck!
Equalizes once a month the 28th but if no sun it will not till try next 28th????
Strange i have 410w 2 panel setup and im getting 35.5v and 3.0A off my pannels. Is a bit cloudy but going by your setup mine should be close
It sounds like you have your panels set up in series (panels connected negative to positive). Remember that voltage x amps = watts so you are getting about 106.5 watts total. Now several factors will determine how much you get from your panel. If it is overcast or cloudy you will get less watts. And the big thing, you have to have a "load" connected (TV, fan, fridge, etc.) that will make the wattage jump up to whatever your system requires. You will never get a full 410 watts, about 70% is more or less what you will get at best (middle of the day/sunny).
Also take in consideration the panels angle and the direction they are facing. If they are not aligned right, your wattage will be lower.
My system is a 500 watt right now and I plan to upgrade to 1000 in the future. At it's best I get about 325 watts for an hour or two around noon (sunny day), but I have seen it jump up to 429 watts for a few seconds. Then for about 2 hours before noon and two hours after I get between 250-300 watts. My battery bank is only 250 AH (5 - 50 AH batteries). I believe if I increase my battery bank, I might be able to increase also the watts I get, not sure on that yet. My best for one day is 2,567 watts, but average about 2200 on a sunny day. On an overcast day, about 450 watts.
What I would recommend is to make sure your panels surface is clean, they face the sun and also are inclined at the right angle and check your readings at different times of the day and under different weather conditions.
It's my impression by everything I've read that monocrystalline (black) panels give you a higher output than polycristalline (blue) panels during cloudy conditions.
Believe it or not, I'm able to run a 514 watt air conditioner for about two-three hours in the middle of a sunny day
Well, hope this helps!
The Solar Energy Channel thanks for the reply,i actually have them in parallel. I only got it set up so interesting to see what i get today its blue skys here in Ireland.
I was going to try in series to see the difference
DecoD71 Hope you get better readings with a sunny day. If you are able to move them around make sure they face south. If you have an Android phone, there is an app by the name of Solar Tilt. Use it if you can, It will give you the solar panel inclination in degrees once it finds it's GPS position.
The Solar Energy Channel nice one. At the minute im getting 35.5v 7.7a at 270w
I got a 40a controller i thought i would have more amps.. anyway thanks for the detailed replys il download that app
DecoD71 If you have an MPPT charge controller on a sunny day with a load you should get 60 to 70 percent of the panel rated wattage. Much less if you have a PWM controller. Good luck!
This is a professional channel? Nope.