I know it's been a year, but I am so disappointed the design and parts used to build the newer vehicles. I've had 30 year old vans that even after that long, don't have the stupid little mission impossible what should take half an hour takes days if at all. Mine did exactly the same thing,but fortunately it's a van,so I can pull the inner housing and the pipe is totally accessable. But it's either spend a grand or more having a mechanic do it.
dunno if anyone gives a damn but if you are bored like me atm then you can stream all the latest series on InstaFlixxer. Have been watching with my gf recently xD
It happened to my 98 expedition and it was a pain in the ass because its discontinued and they want you to get the hole set together. I had to take the manifold off way easier. And i just freshened up the gasket and spark plugs with new coils as well new thermostat with gasket as well with new sensors it was pricy but if you have commercial is cheap. Or know someone who is a mechanic can get it for you cheap
I thought about it, but the location and difficulty getting to it, you'd need to remove the manifold just to try the epoxy. At that point, might as well use plumbing fittings. Thanks!
Howdy! It is awesome. I did the plugs on that Ford about 8 years ago and even taking the wheels off and nearly setting the brake rotors on the ground I had a bruise across my entire chest for weeks. It's a Traxion 3-100 topside creeper. Got it from Amazon for under $200. Kind of a faf to put together but it's worth every penny.
Sorry. Misunderstood. Autozone had the tube but I could not get it inserted. The interference is huge. I'd suggest threading the hole and using plumbing fittings instead. My repair is still going well with no leaks.
Does a 1998 4.6 2v also have that black tube running down the middle of the inatake manifold, its in between the heads runs to the back please need answer
Hey Aron, I have a 1997 f150 with a 5.4 in it, Same Oxford white and same trim as yours! The whole ac/ heating system have been take out from the previous owner, the metal tube that’s pierced on yours is capped on my truck, with a rubber cap. I have to replace the damn cap every 7/8 month because I live in Florida and coolant start leaking. Toke the truck to couple of shops, they all told me to keep on just replacing the rubber cup. Where the hell does that metal hose should connect to?!?! Your engine is the first one I see that ever match mine
I think it was 97 only they did that. The hose goes to one side of the heater core to supply heat. If yours still has heat they must have found another source. Starting in 98, I think, that house was relocated to the front passenger side of the intake manifold. The manifold was changed to plastic in some places as well. You might be able to source a later model intake manifold with the modified hoses from a junkyard and swap it out.
@@aaronsrose thanks for the prompt reply, mine doesn’t have a heater core, in Florida we don’t need one, but they capped the tube, and the only cap I can find are rubber, the engine heat destroy them every 7/8 month. I was trying to figure out a better solution, but I guess that without the heating core, the only solution is to keep it capped. Thanks !!!!
Thanks for posting this video. Mine has a rear leak also that appears to be coming from the bellhousing area. Do you think it could be the same issue as yours?
If it's an early model before they changed the coolant hose to the front of the intake I'd say that is the most probable cause. It could still be that stupid pipe under the intake, but that usually fills the intake valley and should be visible looking down behind the alternator.
I believe it is a Dorman 626-229. (But I ended up using threaded plumbing fittings as I did not have the special press tool to install it in the manifold. Thanks!
Would this be the same problem for my 98 expedition? There’s a puddle of ac right underneath manifold (right around where the bolt is to the Knock sensor) or if it’s not that metal pipe what else can it be ?
If it's visible under the manifold in the front behind the alternator it's that stupid coolant pipe from the top of the water pump to the rear that runs under the manifold. Still need to remove the manifold but you can get replacement parts and it's not hard to install. I recommend doing the knock sensor and spark plugs while you're in there. It's a lot easier with the manifold off. Good luck!
Assuming your expy is a 5.4L, the part SHOULD be a Dorman 626-221 just like mine was. The 4.6L is different though. I got mine at autozone for about $45. You could probably get it from rockauto for about $35 if you didn't mind waiting for shipping.
That is a Traxion 3-100 Topside Creeper. I got it from Amazon. I have it linked in my amazon affiliate store if you'd like to take a look at it. Thanks! www.amazon.com/shop/aaronrose
Unfortunately, if it's the same as mine and the leak is from that pipe that sticks into the manifold, there's no way to bypass it. You'd need to cut it off below the leak and cap it. I don't think that can be done without removing the intake.
Excellent video this just let you know that Ford doesn't want you too fix your own car to much money for something simple
Eres muy bueno enseñando migo gracias.
I know it's been a year, but I am so disappointed the design and parts used to build the newer vehicles.
I've had 30 year old vans that even after that long, don't have the stupid little mission impossible what should take half an hour takes days if at all. Mine did exactly the same thing,but fortunately it's a van,so I can pull the inner housing and the pipe is totally accessable. But it's either spend a grand or more having a mechanic do it.
dunno if anyone gives a damn but if you are bored like me atm then you can stream all the latest series on InstaFlixxer. Have been watching with my gf recently xD
@Dwayne Collin Yea, I've been watching on instaflixxer for since december myself :D
It happened to my 98 expedition and it was a pain in the ass because its discontinued and they want you to get the hole set together. I had to take the manifold off way easier. And i just freshened up the gasket and spark plugs with new coils as well new thermostat with gasket as well with new sensors it was pricy but if you have commercial is cheap. Or know someone who is a mechanic can get it for you cheap
Did you ever consider puttin JB weld over the hole? I might have to do this fix as well and wondered if that was an option.
I thought about it, but the location and difficulty getting to it, you'd need to remove the manifold just to try the epoxy. At that point, might as well use plumbing fittings. Thanks!
Whoa.... Thanks for sharing...👍💯
Cut the tube, double flare it, force the closest size rubber hose over it and buy a splice nipple for the other end
Nipple
Thats is what happing to my Lincoln navigator 1998
I need a review on that creeper. That things looks awesome. Never new they made such an item
Howdy! It is awesome. I did the plugs on that Ford about 8 years ago and even taking the wheels off and nearly setting the brake rotors on the ground I had a bruise across my entire chest for weeks. It's a Traxion 3-100 topside creeper. Got it from Amazon for under $200. Kind of a faf to put together but it's worth every penny.
@@aaronsrose I need to find that part or part number for the inlet ? Any idea where to get it
Howdy! It's a Traxion 3-100 topside creeper. I got mine from Amazon. Thanks!
@@aaronsrose no the antifreeze leak. I just bought a 98 f250 with same problem on the intake manifold
Sorry. Misunderstood. Autozone had the tube but I could not get it inserted. The interference is huge. I'd suggest threading the hole and using plumbing fittings instead. My repair is still going well with no leaks.
Does a 1998 4.6 2v also have that black tube running down the middle of the inatake manifold, its in between the heads runs to the back please need answer
I believe so. They all need that transfer tube for the heater core
I really wanted to see how you pulled it apart and got it back together on the heater tube because mine is leaking from the same spot
It was brutal. Had to pull the intake and I used plumbing fittings to hook it back up. It did end up fixing the leak though.
My connection broke off in the tube how do I fix it so it don't leak from the water pump connection
cut it and slide hose over it on both sides and use fuel injection hose clamps wont leak a drop
Hey Aron, I have a 1997 f150 with a 5.4 in it,
Same Oxford white and same trim as yours!
The whole ac/ heating system have been take out from the previous owner, the metal tube that’s pierced on yours is capped on my truck, with a rubber cap. I have to replace the damn cap every 7/8 month because I live in Florida and coolant start leaking.
Toke the truck to couple of shops, they all told me to keep on just replacing the rubber cup.
Where the hell does that metal hose should connect to?!?! Your engine is the first one I see that ever match mine
I think it was 97 only they did that. The hose goes to one side of the heater core to supply heat. If yours still has heat they must have found another source. Starting in 98, I think, that house was relocated to the front passenger side of the intake manifold. The manifold was changed to plastic in some places as well. You might be able to source a later model intake manifold with the modified hoses from a junkyard and swap it out.
@@aaronsrose thanks for the prompt reply, mine doesn’t have a heater core, in Florida we don’t need one, but they capped the tube, and the only cap I can find are rubber, the engine heat destroy them every 7/8 month.
I was trying to figure out a better solution, but I guess that without the heating core, the only solution is to keep it capped.
Thanks !!!!
Thanks for posting this video. Mine has a rear leak also that appears to be coming from the bellhousing area. Do you think it could be the same issue as yours?
If it's an early model before they changed the coolant hose to the front of the intake I'd say that is the most probable cause. It could still be that stupid pipe under the intake, but that usually fills the intake valley and should be visible looking down behind the alternator.
Where did you get the creeper thing that you have on the front of the truck I want LOL
Amazon special. It's called a topside creeper.
Hi! Do you have the part number of that small pipe? Thanks
I believe it is a Dorman 626-229. (But I ended up using threaded plumbing fittings as I did not have the special press tool to install it in the manifold. Thanks!
Would this be the same problem for my 98 expedition? There’s a puddle of ac right underneath manifold (right around where the bolt is to the Knock sensor) or if it’s not that metal pipe what else can it be ?
If it's visible under the manifold in the front behind the alternator it's that stupid coolant pipe from the top of the water pump to the rear that runs under the manifold. Still need to remove the manifold but you can get replacement parts and it's not hard to install. I recommend doing the knock sensor and spark plugs while you're in there. It's a lot easier with the manifold off. Good luck!
Aaron Rose yup it’s exactly where you described it ! Where can I get the best deal for that part ?
Assuming your expy is a 5.4L, the part SHOULD be a Dorman 626-221 just like mine was. The 4.6L is different though. I got mine at autozone for about $45. You could probably get it from rockauto for about $35 if you didn't mind waiting for shipping.
Aaron Rose mine is a 98 expedition 4.6
When asking for part at autozone what’s the name of part ? Does it really have to be OEM
12:25 😆😆😆 thats something
Was this a 4.6L or a 5.4L ??
Mine is a 5.4
Where'd you buy the ladder!?
That is a Traxion 3-100 Topside Creeper. I got it from Amazon. I have it linked in my amazon affiliate store if you'd like to take a look at it. Thanks! www.amazon.com/shop/aaronrose
Good video sounds little pricey...
whats the pipe for ??
It runs coolant from the engine into the heater core. Been good since the repair. Currently at 314k miles.
@@aaronsrose i have possibly same issue. Is it possible to bypass that hard line from watet pump to heater core? Around the engine altogether?
Unfortunately, if it's the same as mine and the leak is from that pipe that sticks into the manifold, there's no way to bypass it. You'd need to cut it off below the leak and cap it. I don't think that can be done without removing the intake.
How to replace that pipe tho
ua-cam.com/video/1s8z7pfF2P0/v-deo.html
Got 266456
Next to the gas lines aka fuel injection lines wow what a wack job.
Where did you get the creeper thing that you have on the front of the truck I want LOL