Does longboard fin position even matter? THE TEST!
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- Today I test out longboard surfing fin position and how it reacts when you start tinkering. Some interesting findings as always! Enjoy.
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I’m trying to get back into surfing after an unsuccessful attempt 10 years ago. I’ve been binging your channel and I just wanna say I love the positive attitude, detailed breakdowns, and quality edits!
Great to hear! Yea surfing can be tough to get into.. but it's well worth it
Grew up surfing a long board in the late 60s in dirty jersey just North of Belmar. Couple yrs later short boards came out along with adjustable fins. The practice was smaller fin foward for loosness in smaller waves, and longer fin all the way back for the few times a year it got overhead. Been in S. Ca. since late 70s. I enjoyed the stoke in your videos. All the best to you from another Jersey Boy.
Wow I never thought of that, but it makes total sense. Do you remember how small of a fin you used on smaller days? Right now I use a 10.5" true ames most of the time, but I have a few smaller fins I can try on the smaller days
I too can feel a massive difference in fin placement and the type of fin, even at my novice level ;-), always fun to experiment and geek out, great episode buddy!
thanks Adam! yea I can’t believe that the slightest movement of a fin actually makes a difference haha! love testing this stuff
Fin forward has less to do with stability while riding the nose and more to do with how your board feels the rest of the time when you're not in trim. When you are in trim and working up to the nose for a nose ride, it is your rail in the face of the wave that gives you stability. Your fin does do some work there, but not as much as you'd think. I think there's some videos of Tommy Witt and Corey Colapinto doing legit noserides finless or with only side bites. Fin placement as far as stability is concerned has much more effect when your rail is out of the water and you are making turns to setup that nose ride. Different fin placements can also drastically effect the drag in the water and can slow down your board a lot. Which can also be better or worse for nose riding depending on the board. I was also kind of bummed that you didn't actually switch your fin placement until the end of the video. You should have done all the way back, middle and all the way forward.
Yes you're exactly right! When on the nose theres little difference, it's everything else that makes a difference. I wish I experimented with this long ago lol
Everybody is so fixed on cross stepping, try cat walking, way lighter way faster way,way cooler Study Da Cat. AKA Mickey Dora.
Ah I like the idea!
I'vr spent 2 summers in NJ in Wildwood 12 years ago... If I knew, that surfing exists those days, my life would go so different lol)) Very interesting!
haha I had a similar situation. Vacation to LBI when I was a kid... if only I surfed back then
I just recently left the 2+1 setup on my longboard that it came with and moved to a single fin. First thing I did was move it as far forward as I could get it and it made a MASSIVE improvement to my turning.
very interesting! so those side fins were hindering the turning a bit which makes sense. Also, maybe your just naturally better at a pivot style turn rather than a sweeping turn you would do with a tri fin.
@@LongboardSessions I found that the side bites definitely help with stability and flying faster down a line, but on the longboard it does make your turning radius a lot wider than I like. You're probably right since I learned to turn on a thruster fish before getting it down on my longboard lol
haha wow quite the opposite of a longboard
@@LongboardSessions I went nuts my second month surfing and bought a 9'2" longboard, 6'6" fish, and a 7'8" midlength
@@LongboardSessions it took me a while to get alright turning in general and my longboard has super super fat rails on it so it's not the most responsive beast
I have been shaping boards for 3 years. As a 69 year old in Hawaii, I am always in search of more volume in a board that still performs. I do sometimes laugh to myself at shortboarders on their 5-xx boards, and they don't catch a wave in an hour, while imagining they are KS11.
oh nice! haha yes that happens all the time here too. Ton of shortboarder's just watching us loggers catch 5 times the amount of waves. To be fair, when NJ is good, it's great for a shortboard. But most of the time poeple are on the wrong equipment
@@LongboardSessions No kidding. Here on Oahu I sometimes chase some outside mysto peaks, and when I get some waves, small boarders join me only to find a spread out lineup and fast moving, difficult take off spots. And they get nothing.
Love the vibes of your videos man. Also fun fact, I live in Bali and here its the most crowded 6.30 - 10.30am in the moring...mostly because wind is kicking in after that. So early bird sadly does not help here :D.
Thanks so much! Oh that's a shame. However.... your waves are KILLER so that makes up for it😂
@@LongboardSessions haha yeah not complaining
Love that bonky synth sound in the music when you surfed fin back. What's that song called?
Oh man sorry, this was so long ago I don't remember! Yea love that song too
Well, I'll be moving my fin forward to test this out. I'll keep you posted!
Do it! I made this video awhile back… what I’m finding now is any change you make to the performance of your board is a good thing. Even if it makes your board perform worse, it makes you better understand how everything works and ultimately makes you a better surfer. Keep experimenting is my point
Cross-stepping issue: leaning back?? BTW RU wasting too much time checking other sites? Grass is always greener?? Good vlog today. I'm shopping for logs!
I don't know what you are looking for but I would higly suggest a CJ Nelson Sprout or NeoClassic. Super awesome boards, ride amazing, glassed tough AF (I seriously don't know what it would take to even just dent one). I have a 10' sprout and wouldn't trade it for anything.
Nope, but good try! I dont think I'm wasting time by checking... sometimes I do, but the spot I pick can make or break the session. Some days i'm mad cause of closeouts... but If I had looked a little harder I could have found a better wave. What boards you lookin at?
@@LongboardSessions Available locally: Solid Surf Co "The Log," Global Surf Industries Modern Retro, Ponto. Might go with 10'. Online: CJ Nelson Sprout (Thanks, Ethan), a Hobie board. Or maybe just stay with my Harbour Banana.
@@TromboneAl Very cool. All I have to say is, the bigger the board, the more it forgives your mistakes.
@@LongboardSessions Ordered a 10' Ponto Bandito.
I love riding fin forward in my 10' wish my box was a little longer to go a little farther forward honestly.
Also, SINGLE FIN THE WORLD
Nice! I was thinkin the same thing... I wish i could throw this thing even farther forward haha
Oh I should try my fin forward too. I have a 10ft NSP sleepwalker. Do you think 10 inch dolphin fin is the best all around or 9 inch would be better? Any thoughts? Thank you very much for your time and kind advice.
I surf a 9' board with 1+2 configuration and I always place the central fin as forward as I can. The only time I putted the central fin back I felt I could barely turn my board. Maybe this "fin to the tail" configuration is interesting when you are surfing really big waves where speed is more important than doing fast turnings.
Ah interesting. Well putting the fin back makes the board more stable, therefore easier to cross step on. I'd still want the fin forward on big waves I think
As you say in the video, you didn't feel the board more stable withthe fin back. Neither did I, so that config has to have a hidden advantage that we can't figure out😂
@@ivanetenete Oh I get what you're saying. Yes exactly right, no point in keeping it back if we don't actually feel the stabliity we hear so much about haha!
I love ur vlogs buddy i surfed all my life and i never thought to move up my Skagg or fin
Thanks bobby! Yes it makes quite a noticable difference!
Longboarding is definitely better than short boarding 😉 haha
I’ve done both..... and you are correct haha
Agreed! But why is it still called longboarding? LONgboarding was originally just called surfing. How and why is it that the aspect of surfing that came later misappropriated the nomenclature entirely? It would be more accurate to call longboarding traditional surfing or perhaps Classical Surfing.
Short boarding came after which is why those boards were called something else i.e., shortboard, and is the discipline which should have a separate title and not the other way around. Short boarding should be more appropriately called, progressive surfing. I don't know.... seems like better marketing to me.
@@dperry9406 Yes exactly.. however we can't control the wording now that it's cemented in lol
@@LongboardSessions No. I believe we can... and I will. Hope it catches on. It was once cemented the original way i spoke of. Perhaps just time for another change. Maybe by the next olympics when they add Traditional (Longboarding; what a seriously stupid name) Classical Surfing as an event.
P.S.
Believe they need to do the same with longboard skateboarding. Its pretty much the same story. Hawaiians were practicing trim and cross stepping on long (much longer than what skateboards became in the 70"s) skateboards during the 50's, downhill mostly and was a thing before it really took off in California. Nhave the
coherency
Ima jus say it like this my brother. Constantine or whatever his name is has been surfing since he was a kid, same as me. He’s a natural, grew up around other legit longboarders, same as me, and was a pro-level surfer since he was 15, unlike me…combine that with some genetic/athletic gifts from God, and you have him.
You and I got athletic ability, I have a HUGE advantage on you as I’ve been surfing for almost 40 years, but as far as athletes go, you and I and most are almost the same. We will never be a pro, even if we had been surfing g since age 5…
That being said… switching stuff around, new shapes, fins, styles, all that stuff makes for good videos, but you’re setting yourself back by doing it all. Stick with your stick, set your fin, put in the time, and you’ll become as good a surfer as the good lord intended you to be.
Surf with your heart and you will be great in your mind… Anyone else’s view doesn’t even matter.
Peace my brother…
Thanks man! Exactly right. However, to make the videos as interesting as I can, I have to keep trying different things even if it's to my detriment. Maybe I won't get as good that way, but I'm having the most fun possible. That's what im in it for hehe
@@LongboardSessions Good on you man, go get it!!!
Back = stiff, forward= loose. Personally I have put my fin right forward on all my boards.
I kinda like it forward as well since I surf mostly beach breaks
@@LongboardSessions I mainly surf point breaks. It's just great to be able to turn easily on a 10ft Longboard.
You talk too much!
Hmm I see. Go watch the surf videos with no talking and stop watching mine maybe?
Nice I went longboarding for the first time in 2 months and I was getting 30 second wave which is very rare for my spot
woah Iv'e never even come close to a 30 second ride ... must be fun!
I used to kayak surf and recently started sup boarding. I realize that I can't surf backside, and found your videos super helpful.
I recently moved my center fin forward, and much prefer it. I found the difference hard to put into words though. It felt like a fairly subtle difference. The main difference I noticed was directing the board just after take off was way easier.
On a side note, I was expecting a hard time from surfers, but most are accepting and are super chill.
What you found is exactly what I found! Just every so slightly easier to direct the board after the takeoff. Also, generally surfers are cool. You can get some bad eggs but its rare!
Thanks for the videos! I think a great video that I would be definitely interested in is the difference between surfing a fiberglass and epoxy, and what is the best type for nose riding. My Modern Retro is soo heavy but my epoxy is too light/ narrow for nose riding.
thanks Anjelica! that would be an interesting comparison! you in the NJ area? I would
need someone to let me use their epoxy board hehe
@@LongboardSessions Haha No.. In Florida but looks like there are fun waves over there
If your board has it throw some on some nice twinsies.. Makes the board turn like a shortboard.
lol that would be interesting. However, no slots. I rode Gilad's board a couple days ago and that thing turns like a short board with the tri fin set up!
new sub - sweet edits - shaping/glassing my own 9' board as we speak - stuck on the fin dilemma - my local break is Pipes in north San Diego County and I'm relatively new to longboards and surfing in general - goal is to nose ride - any suggestions?
Thanks troy! Well, fin selection will have a lot to due with the waves you surf. Your best bet is to chat with a decent longboarder who surfs your break. You can also try a local surf shop and see if anyone behind the counter is knowledgable. In the mean time, can't go wrong with the CJ nelson noserider fin
waves look good in jersey 🤙🏻 yeew from florids
yea they’re great! not long rides, but very fun
you follow work for avocados? Florida surf and skate vlog... good dude
Love the content. Still waiting to run into you at Belmar…or in Jackson lol. We’ll cross paths eventually!!
Thanks Evan! haha I'm sure we will run into each other soon. I've also been surfing the surrounding areas of belmar as well. Just look for the red truck 🤙
"Already 4". LOL!!! If you only knew how that statement would sound living here at Wrightsville Beach, NC. I paddle out at 6-6:30 am into a lineup of 25-30 or more sometimes, regularly. "Already 4" would definitely be more like "ITS ONLY 4!!! LETS GOOO!!!" lol
Also thought it was funny when you were takling about the nice right off the jetty and showed the open face of a peeling left, Im sure you were looking at the right on the other side of the peak but the left was the prominent focal point at that moment, made me laugh for sure
haha ok well yea.. it really doesn't get busy here lol
Oh i'll have to check that part of the video out haha
@@LongboardSessions love your content by the way man, hopefully the energy of my comment didn’t come across as negative or anything, just thought it was funny. Love your channel!
@@TheoreticalMediaInc haha of course! Not only did I get the humor, it's also quite hard to offend me 😉. I can take a joke... unlike the world these days
Looks like you are not always centered on the stringer which is causing some imbalance when you step?
that plays into my findings for sure, but not the “ah ha” moment I had. you’re close!
Thanks for testing this and making the vid lol something I've wondered as well but never tried
You got it! Yea it is very helpful to test out different fins and fin positions. Really gives a different feel to the board
Okay, I got the issue: Walking like an orangutan! ;)
hahaha! That's a good one. You'll just have to wait till thursday😉
Have a Brian Heritage 8’4” hybrid board from 1997, a beauty. Now in Blighty, and can’t wait to dust it off and try fin fully forwards. Thanks for inspiring videos with great technical low downs!!
Oh awesome! Yea give it a shot... but I'd try fin back and fin forwards to compare because I assume it's going to be different based on the board
@@LongboardSessions yes always surfed it mid position, but now many shorter boards later got frustrated, when going back to it, with turn in rate. Did not realise back for stability, forwards for turn!
Longboarding is better than shortboarding! Heyaah brotha! :D
you know it!
uneven spaced cross steps with too big of a step to the nose ?
close but no cigar! however, those are obvious problems with my cross stepping hehe. But this problem I’m talking about has been an eye opener.
Rey and I both tried this new concept and have had great results .... I’ll explain in the next vid
What a fun day it was. Hope to take more baby steps without diving head first:)Tom....you are a star buddy!!
Chris drone pilot is an asset. We are lucky to have him...such a pro
Thank you Brian, great school!
yea Tom is a natural! love Chris , Tom, Max, and of course old reliable gilad ... good crew
Agreed. Also, you are not stepping in the center of the board. You should be looking forward and stepping pretty much on the stringer as you step forward and back. Lastly, I could be seeing this incorrectly but it seems like you are facing your body slightly forward instead of parallel to the rail
@@jamiebasich2286 Oh yea for sure.. iv'e been focusing lately on really keeping my steps in the center and it's helping out big time!
Do you mean I'm facing my body more towards the beach instead of turning my shoulders to face the nose of the board? If that's what you mean, you are correct I believe
Great personality dude! Thank you for the video
Haha thanks Kaiden! Glad you enjoyed
Super thoughtful and helpful!! Keep making videos! Love them
Awesome thanks Casey! I'll keep makin em 😉
Hey Guys any recommendations for wetsuits for the coming fall/winter season. Do most guys go 4mm or is the 5mm better?
Maybe someone else can reccomend a good winter suit. I'd say atleast 5/4, but Lets let others chime in with some brands.
Also, you commented a few days ago and for some reason it's not showing up. I only got to see the beginning of the comment and it said something like you just started surfing again after 10 years. That's basically what happened to me! Got married when I was 21 and started having kids and surfing got thrown to the side.
maybe try and make the comment again and it will show up
@@LongboardSessions hey Brian thanks for the info! Yeah I was basically saying I took a 10 year hiatus do to work and kids but your channel has inspired me to get back in the water and it’s really changing my lifestyle for the better, so thank you. Any recommendations from the community about winter wet suits for our area would be greatly appreciated. Love the channel by the way, I have a few UA-cam accounts and have been following your progress for a while.
@@rightcoastlife1894 Great to hear! Honestly, the channel has done much of the same for me. My wetsuit advice would be not to cheap out when it comes to winter. I believe I'll be looking for a 6/4 xcel for this winter
hey how big are the waves that you long board
they vary. I typically favor smaller waves, but take my longboard out in almost anything... unless it’s real big hehe
@@LongboardSessions nice was surfing spring lake today and some 5 ft sets we’re coming in
@@evanjannsen8638 Lol I surfed springlake as well. I was out from 6 to 9 am.
@@LongboardSessions oh dang mabey I saw you
Short answer: Yes
No kidding, just don't let the secret out to much.
😂
Longboarders for the win!
yes sir! I guess on my channel we will all be in agreement lol
Awesome tips!
Thanks James!
Nice vid man !
thanks! 🤙
In the center.
I’m a small person so I’ve been thinking of moving my single fin forward more to help my turning, as there’s a lot of board between me (where I pop up) and the fin. I’ve also been watching a lot of pro longboarders and they seem to be able to control the board by not being back at all.. so maybe maybe not it’ll help 😅?
Yes I would try it if I were you! You can totally turn the board when you're off the fin, it's just a slower process. I'm small as well, only 5' 4" 130 pounds and turning is not too hard. It really helps to put your back foot far towards the rail in the direction you want to turn as well.
Not sure if you have, but also watch this video ua-cam.com/video/ASPeXF9fMqU/v-deo.html
You may do well with a thinner fin like the alex knost model in that video
@@LongboardSessions thank you! Oooh that's a good tip! I am 5ft 3" and 115 pounds so that's very good to know! It's great seeing your videos, because you share the stuff many of us want to know also on the Longboard journey.
@@Thelifeofbel Glad I can help 🤙. I'll keep sharing hehe
It starts at about 5:45