How To: Reversing Loops On A Digital Model Railroad
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- Опубліковано 28 тра 2017
- In this video, I explain the trick to making a reversing loop work on a model railroad that uses a digital control system.
Without taking some special precautions, creating a reversing loop on a two-rail model railroad layout would create an electrical short circuit. Using a $30 gizmo from the Model Rectifier Corporation called a Reversing Loop Module, it's possible to create a reverse loop without causing problems with your train's power supply.
This tutorial will explain how it works, and give you a visual to make it easy to see where the problems lie and how to easily overcome them.
The one thing I probably should have explained better in the video is how to electrically isolate the loop from the mainline. You can clearly see at the 2:45 point in the video two short LGB insulated track sections that are labeled with LGB part number 10152. Those insulated track sections are the key to isolating the loop electrically from the mainline.
After you've finished watching this video, take a look at the sequel: a second video about reversing loops, which covers a more advanced use of reversing loops in a model train layout. • Advanced Lesson On Usi...
Music credit for the end of the video:
"Guiton Sketch" by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
Source: incompetech.com/music/royalty-...
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I'm only 30 seconds into this video and just want to say that you are an amazing person and thank you for explaining everything so well.
Great video showing the introduction of using reversing loops on a digital model railroad.
It is actually a two part video of using reversing loops on a digital model railroad layout. You need a double insulated track section, and a reversing loop module with the red and yellow wires to electrical isolate the reversing loop from the main rail line, otherwise, you can create a short circuit.
In this part of using reversing loops on a digital model railroad layout, you use the LGB Santa Fe Super Chief passenger train lead by an EMD F7 diesel locomotive #202.
And in the next part, which will take reversing loops to the next level, you will run the LGB White Pass and Yukon Route Railway ALCO diesel locomotive #107 pulling a passenger train with a caboose from the White Pass and Yukon Route Railway.
And Battery Railway, one of Jim Zim's UA-cam subscribers encouraged him to add the G scale DCC version of Thomas the #1 0-6-0 Blue E2 Tank Engine pulling Annie and Clarabel from Thomas and Friends manufactured by Bachmann to his G scale model train collection and he will have the analog version of Devious Diesel from Thomas and Friends manufactured by Bachmann in his G scale model train collection in the beginning of September in the house in Washington state!
I am Thomas Comeau and as always, I look forward to seeing you making more videos on UA-cam in the future!
Jim sorry yes I missed it at the end. Thanks for the reply’s, please keep the videos coming.
Excellent intro! Glad I'm seeing it early on in my reverse loop adventures!
Very nice video and fun to watch.
Great idea, thanks for sharing.
Loved the informative video!
Your dog is saying, "Are you finished playing with your trains yet?"
great clip, im having a loop to loop track on eah end often called dogbone, was concerned on how to automatically throw the switches and power, heard they say to use a bridge recifier for each end
thats so cool.. i might have to try one on my channel,, and layone
thank you for sharing interesting
I Saw Your Dog At The Beginning Of The Video When The Santa Fe EMD F7 Went By
Glad i use marklin 3 rail. Very nice train tho. Runs smoothly and good sound.
Great video Jim! Though your super chief would look better if the whole set had knuckle couplers. Other than that, its beautiful!
Ahh good ol incident at 1:44, good times. I melted my aunts car keys and house keys doing that. Breaker never tripped, it was Federal Pacific panel
I jumped
I use battery power so track wiring doesn’t mean as much to me as onboard wiring. It’s the reason I’m in large scale. Nowadays with modern battery technology some people can even fit batteries on HO scale trains.
Nice Train
Thank you for this informative video.
I was wondering if you have any videos on how these two parts are wired together?
I don't want to mess anything up once put together.
Looking forward to your response.
thanks again.
There are instructions that come with the reversing loop module that show you how to properly wire it in to the layout. It's fairly straightforward.
@@JimZim I see if you have a dcc setup.
I don't have anything with dcc.
I was wondering if this reverse loop setup will work with a regular g scale lgb metal train set?
If not, is there another kit to buy to have the reverse loop work for myself with the track setup I have now?
Just getting into the hobby and your videos got me into reverse loop mode now haha thank you for that.
Thanks again for you help.
What I show in this video will ONLY work with DCC trains.
@@JimZim Thanks for all the help so far. Do you have any videos on how to convert a regular dc system to dcc?
Im just getting into the hobby and getting interested with the dcc concept as I'm learning more.
I keep hearing ppl say in their video's that you need a "bus line" to follow your tracks in order to have your dcc setup work properly. In your videos I don't see any.
Sorry for the many questions, but you seem like the go to guy for model trains.
Thanks again.
DCC conversion doesn't make any sense to me. I'd much sooner just buy a new DCC locomotive than to go to the expense and hassle of trying to take an analog locomotive and convert it to DCC.
As far as the "bus line"... I think what they're talking about is making multiple electrical connections to the track all throughout the layout, rather than just connecting your electrical gear to the track in only one place. So, you run a set of wire all around the layout, and every now and then connect it in to the tracks... so that there is a good electrical connection all throughout the layout. This is probably only a thing you would need to do if your layout is going to be permanent... build it once, and it sits that way for ten years. In my case, my layouts exist only for a few days, and then I put everything away and build it again some other day. I am able to just make one electrical connection to my tracks, and the rails carry the power over the entire layout without any problems. But if your layout sits for years, over time the connections between the individual pieces of track can loosen and you can start to have electrical issues. That's why someone would run an electrical bus all around the layout and connect it to the tracks at multiple places... in case the tracks get loose and create a bad connection.
Hi Jim what can you recommend for a analog automatic reverse loop module ?
Great video! Will you be doing more tutorial videos in the future
I think that will depend on how many views this video ends up getting. If the number of views remains small, then that tells me there's not much interest in a "how to" train video and that I should stick with my normal style of train video. (Those seem to get a lot of views.) On the other hand, if this video becomes popular, I've got some other ideas for instructional videos (about DCC train control, advanced reversing loops, etc.) that could become videos in the future.
My almost 2 year old adores all
your videos! He was fascinated by this one. So, an informative video nie and again will be great!
Can I use an altronix RB 1224 relay module to reverse polarity on my n gauge?
Excellent video. My wife thinks your layout is awesome. I was wondering about those reverse loop gismos. If I am using a starter train set from Bachman can I use those devices or do I need some other gismos in the engine too. I'm a Nubby so please be patient with me
It will depend on whether your starter set is a digital set, or analog. Most starter sets are analog... so the devices shown in this video would be useless for those sets. But there are a few digital starter sets out there... and if that's what you have, this video applies to you.
Out west they have reversing loops, but they call them balloon tracks. I prefer wyes. Balloon tracks and wyes have their pro's and con's. Happy railroading!!!!!!!!!!!!
When using a reverse loop what is the number of the isolation. My problem is I hit the switch it will reverse please help
Hello Jim, Just found your channel this weekend and have lost a lot of sleep 😁 watching your videos. My question is, will the MRC AD520 work with other DCC controllers or just the MRC ones? TIA
It should work with any DCC controller.
Of course, buy just one at first and test it on your system.
Jim,I was really looking into the reverse loop concept as well, but unfortunately I have DC system. I currently have an LGB Uintah from 1995, is that able to be upgraded to be able to be run digitally with an MTS upgrade?
I don't know if that locomotive can be upgraded or not. There are some groups on Facebook that are all about LGB trains, and they are full of knowledgeable folks that might be able to answer a question like that. Or, you could ask that to someone at your local train shop, and have them do the upgrade for you.
Hi, Jim, thank you for the nice videos. The reversing loop seems so simple compred to what I saw searching the internet I can't believe it ! Do you do something special on the switch (does it have to be activated back and forth) because I am afraid of a potential short that could damage loco decoders
I didn't do anything to the switch at all. There's no issue at all with the switches causing shorts.
Probably the reason that you've seen very complicated solutions to reversing loops is that they are explaining how to do it using analog locomotives and my method is for digital (DCC) locomotives. My method will ONLY work if the locomotives running on the track are equipped with DCC and controlled by a DCC power supply. Since you mentioned decoders, it sounds like you are running a DCC system.
Thank you, so, most likely when coming back the train will travel the loop the other way round since it usually moves the switch by passing through
Thanks for the video, Jim!
You mentioned the item being available for DCC. Any idea if they're also available for non-DCC?
Hey, did you find anything for dc tracks?
Here's a video that explains how to do reversing loops on analog model train systems:
ua-cam.com/video/VqTjgDSMNFM/v-deo.html
Hey Jim, love the videos what DCC system are u running that you can use your tablet?
It's the MRC Prodigy Elite with the addition of the $99 WiFi unit
@@JimZim thanks for the quick reply!
So tell me about the switch for the reversing loop, do you run throw it? Or does it throw its self back so you always go into the loop the same way? I believe you have to go the same way if using analog.
It depends on whether you use the LGB manual switch, or the LGB electric switch. A manual switch always stays thrown in whatever direction you left it. It will switch temporarily to allow a train to come through "the back way"... but as soon as that train passes, it goes back to being set the original way you had it. An electric switch goes with the flow. If a train comes through "the back way" and changes the way the switch is thrown, it stays thrown that way after the train passes through.
So, if you are trying to get trains to always do your reversing loop in a certain direction, use a manual switch in the reversing loop. If you want the trains to do the reversing loop in different directions each time they come through, use an electric switch.
Part numbers...
LGB Manual Switch Right: 12000
LGB Manual Switch Left: 12100
LGB Electric Switch Right: 12050
LGB Electric Switch Left: 12150
Hi Jim , on the modular with the red and yellow wires going to track , does the piece inside the track come with it”1015t” or is that something separate that you need to add to that system.
Each of the pieces is sold separately.
You actually probably dont have to make TWO reversing loops, I dont know if I have it wrong but, on that track leading to the loop, make a turnout in the direction the train will be once it goes around the loop and have two lines leading to the main line with two turnouts in the both directions, that way either way the train is running it will still be able to reach the reversing loop
supergamersbro Just means you are doing a “wye” at the Main.
@@samiam619
And that "wye" will in itself be (creating) a reversing loop (from the electrical perspective).
Thanks for the response, can you give me the part number for the electrical LGB switch.
Perhaps you missed it at the end of my previous reply.
LGB Electric Switch Right: 12050
LGB Electric Switch Left: 12150
Could you just use an insulating fishplate to stop the current from switching sides in the reversing loop? I had these on my HO layout but never really used them.
No, it's much more complicated than that when you are dealing with DCC locomotives. You have to keep power flowing within the loop, but you have to keep from shorting out the circuit in spite of the rails flipping around and basically connecting back on themselves. That little gizmo with the wires, at the exit from the loop, is the secret to success for a DCC reversing loop.
There are some model train systems that use a three rail system and that's a much smarter design because the center rail is always the center rail and the two rails on the outside are free to switch around and connect back to each other without causing a short circuit. No gizmo needed for a reversing loop on a 3-rail model train. But on a 2-rail system with DCC locomotives, the method shown in this video is what you have to do.
Instead of doing two reversing loops, could you do a wye connection where the reverse loop spur joins the main layout? Basically, having a switch off from both directions that join together at the spur so that the train can enter the reversing loop spur from either direction?
There are all sorts of interesting variations that you can do, once you have the basic equipment for a reversing loop. I think what you've described would work, if you did it right. You would need to place insulated track sections at both entrances to the "Y". The reversing loop module would power the "Y" AND the spur. I've not tried that, but it seems like it would work. Maybe I will have to test that out sometime!
One I want to try is a big oval with an X in the middle of it. This would allow you to reverse in either direction. You just isolate the entire center section (the X) from the outside oval, and use the reversing loop module to supply the power to the center section. Theoretically, should work... I just need to try that sometime soon.
But the classic use of reversing loops is one long mainline with reversing loops at both ends.
Indeed. On a slightly different note - I found your channel from your cruise videos, then on to your train videos. I had a HO scale layout when I was a kid, before DCC came about. I wired my layout the old-fashioned way, using plastic rail joiners to isolate blocks of track and then had a switch panel to energize/de-energize each block and switch, and that's how I controlled which train was running at a given time. I'm really impressed by all that you can do with DCC now.
So, have you given any thought to combining your channel's passions by taking a Northern Europe cruise with a stop in Hamburg to go check out Miniatur Wunderland? The NCL Jade stops there - might be another good opportunity for a Haven suite!
Europe doesn't really interest me that much... the warm waters of the Caribbean are really where I want to be on vacation.
I'll tell you what's a great vacation for someone that loves both cruises and trains: an Alaska cruisetour. We did a 7-day cruise to Alaska, followed by a 5-day land tour which was mostly by train. It was great! That was also where I got introduced to the White Pass & Yukon Route Railway... and now the G-scale version runs through my house.
I found this and it brought up a question. I'm using fastrack and just want to create a side parallel loop of track that I want to park a second train on while run the other. Hiw would i use switches and wire them up to isolate power on and off while i switch trains out. This is pretty important to do because it will be up on a ceiling shelf amd hanger lay out.. your help would be great
That would be very easy to do. You would need LGB #10152 insulated track section and LGB #51805 control box, plus a little bit of electrical wire. This is the fairly standard way people would operate multiple locomotives on one layout in the days before DCC.
@@JimZim appreciate your help.. what would those parts be for fastrack?
What happened when you are travelling in a consist mode, (2 locos, one attached the the second one? (HO layout).
I can't say with 100% certainty, since I've never tried it... but my guess is it would work the same with a consist as it would with just one loco. And I also don't know for sure, but my guess would be that there's no difference between a DCC HO layout and a DCC G-scale layout, as far as how all the DCC things work regarding reversing loops.
I’m planning a G Scale garden Railroad. Does this device also work for DC only railroads.
That specific device is for DCC (digital) systems. If you're planning on running an analog system, which I would discourage for a garden railroad, it wouldn't work.
The reason a DCC system is best for a garden railroad is that you can operate the trains by wireless remote... which is perfect for an outdoor layout. You'll want to walk around and follow the trains and be able to control them right from there... unless you're talking about a garden layout that is small enough that you can see every inch of it from one location where you will place the controls. For example, at my house, the trains go in and out of the garage, the house, the garden, the back yard, the side yard... you really have to have a wireless remote control for a big system like that... because if you see a problem or have a crash, you'll want to immediately do something on the remote. You don't want to have to run back where the controls are.
did you really put that paper clip in the wall socket or make it look convensing. cool video btw
Perhaps I'm a better actor than I realized! There are certain things I won't do for UA-cam, and one of them is putting a paper clip in an electric socket! But I am not above pretending...
I got two 1015Ts and an MRC AD520, but I’m struggling to get it work. Are there wiring considerations or direction of the two 1015Ts?
In the package for the MRC AD520 is a wiring diagram that shows you exactly how to do it. Of course, this ONLY works for a DCC system. If you're running analog locomotives with an analog power supply, this won't work.
Thanks Jim for the reply. I’ve followed the instructions and I’m running DCC with a Marklin CS3+. But all I get is buzzing. Just want to confirm that you are using two 1015Ts? Either my AD520 is bad or I’ve got something crossed or missing something. Thanks for the help and the video!
Hi is there anything out there that could reverse direction? As in I want to have a long straight line track when the train comes to the end it starts back in the other direction without the controller on the transformer. Is there a type of reverser, maybe a bumper type of reverser that could do that?
I'm not aware of one. But let's see if anyone else wants to chime in with an idea.
I believe that is used for a trolley layout.
Yes, there's quite a few units that do this for DC and you can automatically program this into DCC - but I assume you're doing this for DC - if so use the LGB one www.onlytrains.com/model/trains/10340.html it works well
How to fix animated train at one terminal charging bar point the auto reverse direction is not functioning
1:44 OWWWW!!
So realistically I don’t even need a powered switch for the reversing loop? I have a HO scale layout I’m working on and I think I would like to add one of these
You are correct...
The switch in a reversing loop does not need to be powered.
What I’m asking is that the insulated between the tracks ? And is it also from MRC?
It's from LGB. It's an insulated track section.
Thanks for quick response. Have great 4th!
What could i use if i run dc track power?
If you're not running DCC (digital command control) a reversing loop has to be done in a completely different way. This video only addresses the way to do it on a DCC system. I don't know how to do it if you don't have DCC. Perhaps you could Google it.
What is the scale of the miniature car you have now, sir??? please answer, sorry my english is not good
These model trains are G scale
$30 five years ago for dcc. So today it should be about $175 for dc?
My favourite is thomas xxxxxxxxxxxx
Jim are you a radio personality?
I was in the 1970s and 1980s, but I couldn't make any money at it. So, I got "a real job".
So this wouldn't work for a small DC setup?
It should work on any DCC (digital) model railway, but would not work on an analog model railway.
Hint: if you put two locomotives on your tracks, turn up the controller, and both trains go... you do not have a DCC system.
You should consider mixing the audio down to mono when you're talking - it's really distracting to have your voice apparently bobbing around my head from side to side!
PLAYING !! AROUND !! WITH !! TYCO !!! TRAIN !! SET !!! ON CARPET !!! GO !! AND !! STEP !! YOUR !!! BIG !! FOOT !! ON !! THE !!! TRACK !!!!!
How do you actually connect the MRC module to the track?
On the insulated track section (LGB part #10152) you remove two screws from the plastic cover to reveal an area inside the plastic case where you can attach the wires from the MRC module.
@@JimZim To confirm, you only need one LGB part number 10152 and install it where the train leaves the loop, correct? Or do you need two LGB 10152. One where it enters and one where it leaves the loop.
@@JimZim Also, great videos! Do the wires get soldered?
You need two, but only one of them gets the MRC module hooked up to it.
No soldering, just use a screwdriver to connect the wires to the screw terminal.
*Laughs in Maerklin*
When is a reverse loop needed?
Anytime you want to get a train going in the opposite direction that it had been going.
Most commonly, reverse loops are used at the opposite ends of long runs of tracks. You'd put one reverse loop at one end of your layout and then have a long run of track running to the opposite end of the layout... where there would be a second reverse loop. This way, the train goes left to right on the layout, then turns around on a reverse loop and does the layout from right to left. Then it turns around on the other reverse loop and does the layout left to right again.
And on and on and on...
@@JimZim, I have been using reverse loops myself, but I have always felt awkward while doing that. It felt... unnatural. That is, are reverse loops common in the real world?
I don't think there are very many reverse loops in the real world. It's mainly a model train thing.
Use Märklin three-line-system... Some problems can be solved so easy...
Yeah, there are days I wish I had started with a 3-rail system. But now, I've got so much invested in 2-rail track... there's no going back. So, using the digital reversing loop module is the easiest solution for someone in that situation.
This is I called engineering, but with small scale
Why not look into radio control? It would solve a lot of problems. A self powered train with no current in the tracks.
Well, for one thing, you can't just walk in to a model train store or go online to a major train store like www.trainworld.com and buy battery powered radio controlled G scale model trains. By using the simple solution described in this video, literally a $30 item, you can do reversing loops using off-the-shelf G scale DCC model trains from any of the major manufacturers such as LGB, Piko, Bachmann, and MTH.
If there even is such a thing as radio controlled battery powered G scale model trains, there probably aren't many to choose from. By sticking with regular G-scale trains from the major manufacturers, you have LOTS of trains to choose from.
I know there are radio controlled live steam model trains... but those are super expensive. The solution shown in this video is much more affordable than any other way to do it.
remember kids do not do what he did do not put a paper clip into your electrical socket that's dangerous
I think people watching this video are probably smart enough to figure out that I didn't actually put a paper clip in the electrical socket.
@@JimZim oh trust me there's someone out there that will watch it and think hmm he did it and survived so can I trust me not everyone's that smart to think that way I have seen proof in real life that this is true
Simple solution. Convert locomotives to battery...😀
Converting a g-scale train to battery power... a "simple solution"... ha ha ha
@@JimZim simple yes..expensive yes....had both locomotives converted and it has been a dream...no more track maintenance or power issues. Cost about $400 per locomotive to convert. Run 6 hours.
Oh, I see. You meant it was simple because you didn't actually do it yourself... you paid someone to do it for you. OK, yeah, it's simple if you do it that way!
I came looking for how to wire a reverse loop. You’re no help.